Retubing Eric's BJ42

We decided to use prefabed panels on the outsides. With the choice of panels we went with we had a few frustrations. Amongst other things the fuel filler opening is 1cm to tall and wide. We found this to be a reoccurring problem with this product line. I now get the outside panels mad at a local steel supplier.

We decided that aluminum is good for making beer cans and Land Rovers not for installing on a Cruiser.

This is where all the fun the starts.	Start off by replacing the end of the tub.
As is our way of over kill we used 1/4" channel. You must installed the end of tub true and square. If you do all will be ok if not you will have nothing but huge problems through out the entire project.	Next chop the sides off, remove the gas filler as well. That weird looking split chisel you get with a air chisel set worked great for this job. Install the filler on the new skin before the skin goes on the truck.
Weld on the new side panels.	When aligning your panels remember leaf spring sag is not even on both sides.
Just a good shot of the gig we used to hold all square.	Transpose all of the templates you made of your old wells and floor onto your 1/8" check plate.
Install the tank, body and fuel line mounts to your new floor.	Install floor, reinstall your fuel tank.
Erick's old floor had so much paint, undercoating, and fiberglass on it we could not even put it in the scrap metal bin.	Erick's new floor and wells installed. Note the escape hatch we installed on the floor {ok so it is the fuel sender access panel}.
Note Erick's style of using a air drill to drill the roll bar mounts. This technique must be followed exactly	Off it goes to the painters shop.
Note the bolts are installed facing inward.	Ask Erick to show you his rig up close it looks great. You can e-mail him at: ERJames@unixg.ubc.ca

We started by replacing the front drivers floor.	We used a piece of 1/8" check plate.
A good shot of new the floor.	The side view of the floor.