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DAY 2. From Caen to MT ST MICHEL
Good morning!!! Today is the second day of our trip in Normandy. Today you will visit the next two places in Normandy: Caen, Bayeux and Mt St Michel.
Wake up as earlier as possible, because your train from Rouen to Caen departs at 06:45. At 08:29 you are in Caen.
The city of Caen is the capital of Basse Normandy. Once it was one of the finest cities in Normandy. The bombs of the last war destroyed the city almost completely. Ramparts are the only remains of the big Ducal castle. But you have still enough valuable places to spend about three hours. The tomb of William The Conqueror is one of them.
After you leave the train station, take a bit left to begin your walk by long Avenue du 6 Juin. The street goes to Chateau de Caen. On the right side of the street you will see the gold-made statue of Jeanne d'Arc. On your left, close to rue des Martyrs, you will find Eglise St Jean and monument commemorating the victims of anti-Semitism. Visit that nice church. On the backside of the church you can visit some patisserie and buy raspberry cake.

Come back to Avenue du 6 Juin and continue until you see on your left Eglise St Pierre. Then turn left and follow by rue St Pierre. That is a pedestrianized street. Some fashion and jewelry boutiques are there. Continue you walk straight till Hotel de Ville and Abbaye aux Hommes (Men's Abbey). The Abbey was built by William the Conqueror. Previously, Hotel de Ville was a part of the Abbey too. Today you can visit Hotel de Ville for free. But the most important part of the building is the Eglise St Etienne. There you will find the tomb of William (once it had contained his remains). The unceasing organic sound accompanies you every time. The atmosphere of mortality is everywhere, especially in the dark corners of the church. The feel is of a ceased time.
After you have left the church, ask the people about the closest way to Chateau. The walk must take no more than 10 minutes. In the castle climb up the ancient ramparts. Upstairs you have a great view on Normandy fields. Inside the castle you will find modern building of Musee des Beaux Arts. The entrance is free (9:30-12:30, 14:00-18:00, apart of Tuesday). The museum hosts paintings from XV-XX centuries, ceramics and so on. Not far - Musee de Normandie illustrates the life in Normandy till nowadays. It has the same opening hours as the previous museum. Before you leave the castle, pay your attention to the nice gardens.
After you have left the castle, take left on rue des Chanoines. It will take you to the Abbaye aux Dames. The abbey was built by William's wife, Matilda. Behind the main altar you will find her tomb. The Eglise de la Trinite can be visited free. But the visit of the abbey is by guided tours only.
Now it is the time to finish you trip. By rue des Chanoines come back to Avenue du 6 Juin. Then if you are tired or don't have enough time, take a bus to the train station. YOU HAVE TO BE BACK THERE BEFORE 12:32 to take train to Bayeux. Otherwise, you have to wait until 14:11.
At 12:46 you'll arrive to Bayeux. Bayeux is known for the 70-m tapestry. The tapestry tells the story of William's conquest. Also, Bayeux was the first French town the Allies freed. So, you are not far from D-Day beaches too.
From a tiny train station take a bit right and then left and downward on Boulevard Sadi Carnot. On the intersection with rue Tardif and rue Larcher continue your walk with rue Larcher. If you visit Bayeux between May and September, visit first la Musee de la Tapisserie de Bayeux. Otherwise, visit first the Cathedrale Notre Dame, because the museum opens its doors at 14:00 only (to 18:00) (16 March-29 April and 18 Sept-15 Oct. : 9h00-12h30, 14h00-18h30 ; 16 Oct.-15 Mar : 9h30-12h30 and 14h00-18h00 ; May-15 Sept. and weekends: 9h00-19h00).
To visit the Musee de la Tapisserie de Bayeux take right from rue Larcher to rue de Nesmond. On your left you will find the building. At the entrance you can see the desk commemorating the visit by the British royal family. The entry fee - 5.5 Euros (it includes the visit of two another museums; so, don't through the ticket out after you have finished your visit of the museum). For additional 2 Euros you receive audiotape with the commentaries. It will help you to omit the visit of preceding exposition with commentaries. You also can see the film.
CLICK ON THE IMAGE TO VISIT THE SITE ABOUT THE TAPESTRIES
In the exposition's hall you will find 70 m long tapestry representing the steps of Norman conquest of England in 1066. Remember that the tapestry was made during William's life. So, it's very ancient. From the tapestry you can learn something about the dress fashions of the time. Also, the information can help you to be a bit more careful in Mt St Michel's moving sands. There you can find the picture where William is saving one of his soldiers. After you leave the exposition, you know all details of the conquest story (maybe it's not really objective information, but you are enough intelligent to filter it).
On the opposite side of rue Larcher you'll find Cathedrale Notre Dame. Most of the building represents Norman Gothic style of XIII century. Part of the building was added later. Although the building's glory is far from that of Rouen's Cathedrale, its walls can easily impress you. You can visit it from 9:00 to 18:00.
Close to the Cathedrale you will reveal two another nice museums. The first is Musee Baron Gerard. Its open hours are the same as those of the Tapestry's museum. It hosts paintings from middle ages (French and Italian) till impressionists' periods. Also, you will find there a lot of "objets des arts" (like porcelain jars). When you leave the museum pay your attention to the Tree of Liberty. It was planted at the year of the French Revolution (so, it's a something 200 y/o tree - a bit respect, please).
Another museum you have to visit is Musee Diocesain d'Art Religieux and Conservatoire de la Dentelle. It's not a big museum, but it contains good examples of religious dress and liturgical "objets". At the same building you will find the old ladies making lace. It's a unique place of Norman lacemaking. You also can buy a piece of it, but be prepared for at least three signs sum.
Now come back to rue Larcher and continue straight until rue St Martin. Then take right and on your left side you will find the tourist office of Bayeux. There you can buy the organized tour to most of the D-Day sites. It costs something between 15 and 30 Euros. But it's the only way to visit that places, if you don't have a car. I recommend you to call to the tourist office a few days before (tel. 02 31 51 28 28) and to book your place. Remember that you have to come back in Bayeux to take the train to Mt St Michel in 19:24.
If you want to visit the sites by private car and you want some more information about the D-Day's sites, take the "Lonely Planet's" book "France". They give a very detailed information about that.
If you prefer to omit the visit of D-Day sites or if you have still enough time before the tour, make a walk with rue St Jean and rue St Martin. It's a shopping zone of the city.
Than, if the D-Day trip is not for you - come back to the Gare (train station). You have the train to Mt St Michel at 17:08.
If you have left Bayeux at 17:08, than at 18:59 you are in Pontorson station. If you have left it at 19:24, than you will arrive to Pontorson at 21:24. At that time you will not find any bus. But the taxis are meeting all of the trains. So, don't worry. The driver can even help you to find hotel in Mt St Michel. If there are a lot of tourists to Mt St Michel, you won - your trip will be cheaper (I had paid 6 Euros in the car of some 10 passengers). If you don't see any taxi around, call to Raymond 02 33 60 26 89. He works 24 hours a day, as was written on his visit card. He had really helped me.

MY RECOMMENDATION is stay for night in Mt St Michel - even if you have car. To lie on the bed and to hear the mysterious musical sounds from the Abbey - it's an unforgettable experience. Make it, even if you have very tight budget (the price for doubles is high - 45 Euros +). If you book the room before, there are more chances to find cheaper room. The tourist office (tel. 02 33 60 14 30) can help you to find the relevant accommodation.
Now, if you are in Mt St Michel take a dinner. Although they are a bit pricier than in the neighboring Pontorson, you can try to find something not very expensive. It's not a problem to find menu for no more than 15 Euros. Seek for restaurant with a view on the sands of Mt St Michel. A few people had such romantic dinner like yours.
After you have finished the eating, begin your climbing up to the monastery - the abbey. The central street of the island will bring you to the top. Be prepared for a long way. But you will be rewarded for your efforts. Some 10-15 minutes later you are in the Abbey.
At 21:30 they begin self-paced illuminated performance. You pass room by room, hall by hall and hear some majestic mysterious musical sounds. The special illumination adds a lot to the atmosphere of mystery. Sometimes, up you head to see the sculpture of Archangel Michael on the top of the Abbey. Don't hurry - now you have enough time. The visit of the Abbey can take 0.5-2.5 hours - depends on you.
After the visiting of the Abbey, try to loose yourself in the tiny alleys of the island. At the night most of the tourists leave the island. So, you can find a lot of silent places. Most of the places are with a view on the bay of Mt St Michel. If you have arrived in October, the sea covers the entire bay.
When you book you hotel ask about the external room - so, you can open your window to hear the mystery of the Abbey.
Good night.
Recommendations of Books
The Bayeux Tapestry : Monument to a...
The story of the Tapestries and of the Norman conquest of Britain. The writing is clear and fluid, drawing you into the mystery of this era and its decisive battle. An adult will love the essays, and a child will enjoy the pictures. Overall, I recommend this book to anyone with an interest in timeless stories.
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