Toulouse - the Pink City
The pink city of Toulouse is the fourth largest in France and amongst the most important industrial centres of France. Aircrafting industry is the main proud of the city (read later the part dedicated to the space museum). Actually, this industry appeared in Toulouse due to its relative remoteness of Germany.
The city situated on the banks of Haute-Garonne was known in Roman times as Tolosa. Later it was the capital of barbarian Visigothic tribes. During the XII-XIII centuries their rulers supported the Cathar heresy. As a result of the struggle between the Catholic church and the Cathars, the famous Toulousian university was founded. During the Middle Ages Toulouse ought its prosperity to the woad. The city was rich and important. It even had its own Parliament which ruled the area in the period between 1420 and the French Revolution. Toulouse also was happy to accomodate Napoleon during his visit in 1809. The CityHall walls' painting memories this event.
One of the most famous French writers Antoine Saint-Exupery stayed in Toulouse for a few years in the 20's. He was a pilot bringing mail to Africa by air. Today we can sleep a night in his single room No. 32 in Hotel du Grand Balcon (05 61 21 48 08). The view of the Place du Capitole is majestical, even though you will pay about 20-30 Euros per night.
Toulouse today is a city of huge contrasts. On one hand, you'll see higly prosperious place with happy and gentle people. On the other hand, your eyes will be caught by drunks, drug addicts and so on sitting just behind the CityHall, in the square in front of the main Tourist Office. So, be aware of that, but don't let yourself to poison your vacation by such pictures.
The main attractions of the old town are lined by boulevards de Strasbourg, de Lazare Carnot, allees Francois Verdier, allees Jules Guesde, the river, rue Valade and its continuations. The total is about 1 sq km. One full day is quite enough to see the whole city, including its good museums (some of them are even great).
Hotel de Ville. Salle Illustres
Alex Elbert Pictures
To fall in love with Toulouse start your walk from the Place du Capitole. Here you'll see one of the most magnificient and elegant buildings you ever saw - the CityHall and the Opera - both in the same building. If you stay with your back to the building, then on your right side you'll find some narrow street - rue Romiguieres. There you can stay at Hotel du Grand Balcon (see before). If you're in Toulouse on weekdays, then at 9-12, 14-17 you can visit for free some interiors of the CityHall. In the great Salle Illustres you can admire the wonderful wall paintings dedicated to the visit of Bonaparte to Toulouse. If you're lucky enough, you can also visit the room of the City Council. To leave the building, use the great staircases.
Hotel de Ville. The Staircases
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Hotel de Ville. The City Council Room
Alex Elbert Pictures
Leaving the CityHall, follow the rue Romiguieres. On you right side' at the beginning of rue Pargaminieres you'll see Eglise des Jacobins and annexed to it Refectoire des Jacobins with its changing expositions. This Dominican church was begun at 1240, to bring the Christianity to Cathars. The beautiful architecture of the church with its columns (22m high) creates an illusion that the vault is supported by the palm trees - the trees from the Holyland. Unfortunately, two hundreds years ago artillery barrcaks were placed here. So, the church still looks a bit abandoned. The church is open daily, with a short break from 12 to 14. In the summer it open intermittently between 10 and 18.
Place Charles de Gaulle
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After visiting the church you can follow again the rue Pargaminieres until you reach the Pont Saint Pierre. The view of the left bank is great. To see the right side (where you're now) is better at the afternoon when the sun will change its position. You can now turn left and follow the river bank until you meet the next bridge Pont Neuf. Here turn left to rue Metz to find on you left Hotel d'Assezat.
Try to get Hotel d'Assezat before noon, because it'll be closed for a break at 12.30 (10-12.30, 13.30-18.00, 21.00 - Thursdays, closed - Mondays; 4.6 Euros). Pierre d'Assezat, its first owner, made his fortune in the pastel trade and in 1555 engaged the famous Renaissance architect Nicolas Bachelier to draw up plans for this palatial town house.
Since 1994, the building hosts the Bemberg Foundation where the visitor can discover an important set of paintings of the Renaissance and XVIIth century (works from Francois Clouet, Cranach, Pieter de Hooch, Pourbus or Tintoret) and from the Modern French School artists (Manet, Picasso, Dufy, Vlaminck. It also has a huge collection of Bonnard works, Renaissance bronze and Venetian sculptures. The visit of this wonderful museum is best to do if you have at least 1-1.5 hours before it'll be closed. But do not hesitate to visit it even if you have no enough time.
Hotel d'Asezat
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After leaving the Hotel, continue walking along rue Metz, one of the most elegant streets of Toulouse. A few hundred meters later you'll see on your left Musee des Augustins (10-18, 21.00 - Wednesdays, closed - Tuesdays; 2.2 euros).
St Augustins
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The huge collection of paintings, sculptures and stone carvings is concentrated inside this XIV century Augustinian monastery since 1793, a lot of them seized by Robespierre government. Today you can admire the sculptures by Bachelier, Arcis Lucas, Maillol, Rodin and Camille Claudel, the paintings by Italians like Perugino, Guido Reni, Crespi, Guardi and others and by French like Vigie-Lebrun, Ingres, Delacroix, Corot and Courbet, as well as canvasses of early modern art: Monet, Toulouse-Lautrec, Vuillard and Manguin. So the visit of two floors of this wonderful museum is a total must!
After leaving the museum, turn right from rue Metz to rue des Arts, then straight on rue Tolosane and rue Mage. On your right you'll see Musee Paul Dupuy, situated in the 500 years old Hotel Besson. The museum is open 10-17 (summer and Sept - to 18). The ticket - 2.2 euros. Don't miss the "Cabinet des Objets d’Art" divided into several sections: gold pieces, pottery, glass, ironwork, textiles. Visit also the old Jesuit pharmacy carefully restored. The rare collection of music instruments and weaponry, as well the clocks of Edouard Gelis is also worth a look.
The doors of Toulouse
Alex Elbert Pictures
From the museum follow with rue Ozenne until you reach allees Jules Guesde, where you turn left. Look at the buildings staying on this street. On your right you can also visit Botanic gardens. When you come to the impressive Grand Rond, turn left on the allees Francois Verdier to turn left again on rue de Metz.
Here you must visit Cathedrale St Etienne, possibly, the most beautiful and impressive church of Toulouse. Although the church was built in the XI-XII centuries, it was rebuilt one hundred years later in French Gothic style. The last modifications were done in the XX century - the west portal was added in 1929.Try to visit one of the great concerts in the church (thanks to its good acoustics).
From there continue your walk along Blvd Lazare Carnot, then Blvd de Strassbourg. Here you'll find a lot of place to eat and to make shopping. Then turn left to rue Saint Bernard to enter again the realm of the old Toulouse. Here you have another higly attractive architectural site - Eglise St Sernin. The Eglise was built within 15 years at the end of XI century . The last alterations were done at the end of XIII century. The magnificient 8-sided tower tops the Basilica. The church is full of diffrent reliquiaries. In past, it also was an important stop on the way to Camino de Santiago de Compostella in Spain. The church is open 8-12, 14-18. Near the church you can visit also little but nice Musee Saint-Raymond (antiquities museum) displaying an exceptional collection of antique sculptures, mostly from Roman period (daily 10-18, 2.2 euros).
From here you can follow with rue du Taur in the direction of Place du Capitole. Don't miss on your right some tiny but very pleasant chapel. Just near Place du Capitole you'll see our last site - Eglise Notre Dam du Taur. The church was built in XIV century in Gothic style. Taur in many Celtic (Gaellic) languages means bull. Bull's tail was used by Romans to persecute St Sernin 9the tied him to the tail / Like in the Catalonian Montserrat you can see here Black Madonna - a wonderful creature of religious art.
After finishing you tour, you can still to go to the river to have a look on the right bank from the opposite side. Hotel Dieu Saint Jacques is a good site to do that. Also, it's possible to make a boating tour (Quai de la Daurade; 8 eros; 1.25 hr;From 30th Mars to 30th April : every day except Monday at 10h30, 15h00 and 16h30. From 1st May to 29th September : every day except Monday at 10h30, 15h00, 16h30 and 18h00. From 30th September to 3rd November : every day except Monday at 10h30, 15h00 and 16h30). Another recommendation is just strolling between the narrow streets of the old town.
The Streets of Toulouse
Alex Elbert Pictures
The evening Toulouse has a lot to suggest. You can visit the Opera'
the concert of classical music, one of Toulouse famous Cabarets or just to sit in one of its charming little family restauraunts.
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