Mystra
Mystra
   Over a hundred thousand years ago three plates came together to from the rugged and mountainous Peloponnese. One of the most majestic of the Peloponnesian peeks is Mt. Taiyettos. Flanked by granite peeks and overlooking a fertile valley this mountain is home to one of the most impressive and well preserved Byzantine ruins anywhere. It is the home of Mystra.

   The first settlers on Mt. Taiyettos were most likely peasants fleeing ancient Sparta. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Sparta came under numerous Barbarian attacks. Some of the people who wished to remain (it is thought that a major portion of the noble families fled to Mani) retreated to near by Mt. Taiyettos for protection since it is a much more defensible location.

   Little was known about this early settlement on the mountain. The main reason for that is because of the sacristy of building materials. These settlers brought blocks from the ruins of Sparta. Later on, the stones that made up the homes of the early settlers were reused again and again to build churches, walls and homes. Therefor, in one building you may have stones with marking dating from several different periods. Because of this, little was left by this early settlement because it was buildings were recycled during latter phases of building.

   What is known is that these people fleeing the ruins of Sparta were not the only people to note the defensibility of Mt. Taiyettos. With unscaleable peeks behind it and a large plane to the other three sides William Villehardouin, a French duke thought to build a fortress on the peek. The fortress was built using stones from homes already at the site, then known as Myzithras. His dream was to build an invincible fortress in which to live and govern. This was one of three fortresses in the Peloponnese built by the duke. He believed he would use this as a foothold to spread French Dominance. His dream was short lived. He began it in 1249 and by 1262 he was forced to trade his fortress at Mystra to the Greeks for his life.

   For the first couple of decades thereafter, the French tried very hard to retake the city. This had two effects. The first was the remaining people of Sparta fled to the protective walls, thus causing the need for expansion. Second, the military magistrate saw the need to expand the defensive walls not once but twice.

   From 1262 to 1348 Mystra flourished under Byzantine rule. It grew in importance from a military bastion to the regional capital of the Peloponnese. As the city grew in importance so did Mystra. There was a domestic effect to all this growth. Mystra grew as a cultural center as well. Civil and religious leaders emerged. As a result, various churches and monasteries were built in the city. As a result various holy orders and the bishop of Lacedaemonia moved into the city.

   All this work increased the importance of the city. It was no longer a backwater but a major city. Emperor John VI, of the Byzantine Empire,sent his second son to oversee the city and the region. (It was under constant attack by the French and Turks and needed some stability) He reorganized the region, forming a Despotat (Dukeship) forming a more self-sufficient government but at the same time establishing the feudal relationship with Constantinople. During this time the Mystra flourished and enjoyed a great degree of prosperity. As it grew in prosperity, more building projects began, attracting artists to design the fresco's that decorate the churches. By the 15th century, Mystra had grown in size and importance. This was the city to live in and people built houses and impressive churches to give thanks in. The result of this we still see to day as we walked the ruined streets. All of the fervent work built monuments to Byzantine art and architecture. These monuments were intended to last through the ages and some of them did.

   The Despots (all in line for the crown) ruled for several generations. The political situation did not get any better. The Turks continued to attack the Peloponnese. Serbs and Albanians also revolted from the Greek rule. So the Despots did not enjoy a very peaceful rule. Furthermore, they often were at odds with their brothers in Constantinople. Finally the anarchy became to much and Mystra was handed over to the Turks on May 30th, 1460.

   Under Turkish rule, Mystra ceased to occupy the importance that it did under the Byzantine Empire. During this time, many of the frescos were most likely destroyed fore religious regions (Turks do not believe seeing human body parts in places of worship) The Venetian began to have sites on Mystra and eventually took the city. They eventually took the city and the city enjoyed a brief renaissance as a regional capital under Venice. During this time it began a lucrative silk trade that still goes on today (though on a very small scale.) Finally, the Turks retook the city in 1715 and used it as a fortress to protect themselves against the people from Mani. It fell briefly once to the Greeks and then to the Albanians in 1770. Each time the Turks retook it.

   Mystra was finally liberated during the Greek war of independence. Unfortunately, the Egyptians sacked and burned the city in 1825. This was the final fall of Mystra. With the foundation of modern Sparta in 1831 the people left for the new regional capital and Mystra fell into ruins. Some people remained, upkeeping their homes, but most of the town fell into disrepair.

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All photos by John L. Polos
Copyright June 10, 2000