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Hints, Tips and Frequently Asked Questions.Date last updated: 25/09/98
Please read the disclaimer firstTable of ContentsThe bulk of the first 17 items have been supplied by Mark Phillips from his previous answers to questions on the newsgroup.A Beginner's GuideOther Frequently Asked Questions
A Beginner's Guide
I want to start caravanning. I can just go out, buy a caravan
and start towing, right?
|
 | Permanent 12v Feed (to run the caravan lights while hitched to the car). |
| Feed from the car for reversing lights. |
| 12v Feed to the Caravan Fridge (to run the fridge off 12v while driving)* |
| 12v Feed to the Caravan Battery (to charge it up while driving)* |
* These last two feeds should be fed through relays (usually called split-charge
relays) so the the 12v is only passed to the caravan when the car engine is running. This
stops the car battery being drained. The fridge alone can draw up to 10 amps. If this is
left connected to the car for any length of time without the engine running, you'll end up
with a flat battery very soon.
One thing to note, there have been many posts in the uk.rec.caravanning newsgroup about
bad towbar installations by main dealers. If you can't do the work yourself, probably the
best option is to use a reputable towbar installer, they should know what they are doing
as they specialise in fitting towbars. Main dealers probably don't get that many requests.
If it's not you doing the work, it's advisable to make a list of your requirements. Hand
the list to whoever is installing the towbar and make sure they understand what you want
and why. The list should look something like:
1. Fit type approved towbar
2. Fit standard 12N socket
3. Fog lights on the car should be disabled when 12N plug connected.
4. Fit 12S socket, with blue and red wires fed via split-charge relays.
5. Split-charge relays should be energised only when the engine is running or the ignition
switched on.
6. The feeds to the Red, Green and Blue wires should be made using 2.5mm wire minimum and
should be fused near the car battery.
Then if whoever is installing the towbar doesn't supply this, you have the chance of some
comeback.
For those of you who want to do it yourself or just check what has been done, then there is a diagram on this web site. Click here to have a look.
This information can also be obtained from Caravan Manuals and Magazines.
The June 1998 issue of CARAVAN has a good one on page 131.
The information is also on the web site for Wade Trailers. There is also a wealth of information regarding towing on this site.
This new standard was introduced in Germany a few years ago and is supposed to be
a 13 pin arrangement. I say supposed because if you look in the socket of some factory
fitted Mercedes towbars for instance, you will actually only see 7 pins. The remaining
slots are empty. I see no advantage for changing in the U.K., you would either have to
adapt everything you tow (a costly exercise) or use a 13 pin to 7 pin adapter. I have them
in stock and its much cheaper but what's the point? The one situation where you may need
to fit a 13 pin socket is if you are fitting a detacheable type towbar to some vehicles
requiring bumper cuts. Some of these only allow room to fit one socket. A big problem if
you need both 12n and 12s.
Tony M.
Towbars & Trailers
Chesterfield
The caravan has to be safe, in other words it shouldn't be so bad that it constitutes a
hazard to other road users. Brakes must work. Overrun brakes (the ones that slow the
trailer when you brake), as well as the handbrake.
Tyres should be fit, as on a car. The thing to check on caravans, especially old ones is
for cracks in the sidewalls and general ageing.
Lights must work with the vehicle lights. There must be an audible or visual indication in
the car that the trailers indicators are flashing. The Number plate must be to the correct
standard and there must be a light to illuminate it when the sidelights are switched on as
on a car.
I would recommend fitting a fog light to the rear of the caravan if one isn't fitted.
Check that the blue wire on the 12N cable provides a feed to the rear of the caravan and
wire the fog light to it.
Note that the wiring standards have evolved over time and an older caravan may be wired
differently to modern ones. It probably won't have facilities for fog lights or reversing
lights. Check before buying that it is compatible with your car wiring.
The trailer or caravan must have two triangular reflectors fitted at the rear.
It mustn't have any projections which could cause injury.
No, but it must be roadworthy as above. The best option is to consider the van is
subject to the car MOT and check the same points. (Brakes, suspension, lights, etc.) The
police do spot checks during summer on some of the main caravanning routes. I think they
do have the power to impound vehicles they consider a danger to other road users. It's
Common sense to make sure your trailer or caravan is roadworthy.
No, but if you have kids or animals, it's safer to buy one with the door on the "correct" side, or at least make it a higher priority when considering different 'vans. At some time you'll need to stop at a lay-by and need to get into the caravan (for a brew, toilet break, etc). Having a door that opens on the opposite of the caravan from traffic is inherently safer than a door that opens on the same side as the traffic. Kids especially have a tendency to jump out of the door rather than climb down from it. In the UK, a door on the left is safest, unless all your touring is in mainland Europe where the majority of your time is spent on the "opposite" side of the road.
No, the car insurance should cover third party liability (check first), but separate insurance needs to be taken out to cover theft and accident damage (both to and by your caravan). These policies usually have requirements when storing caravans such as fitting a hitchlock or a wheel clamp, or both, so budget for these if they're not supplied with the 'van (not cheap!).
No. But newer caravans belong to a scheme called CRIS where the caravan has a unique
registration number and this is liberally dotted around the 'van (etched on windows and
stamped on the chassis). Information on the 'van and it's owner are registered centrally
and it's best to register changes of owner. It's a theft deterrent rather than official
registration.
The trailer or caravan mustn't exceed 7m in length (excluding the a-frame and hitch) and mustn't be over 2.3m width. If it's over 1.3m wide it must be fitted with a fog light.
Firstly, it mustn't weight more than the cars kerb weight. Secondly, the caravan manufacturer stipulates a maximum allowable weight (MAW). This is the weight the caravan mustn't exceed when loaded with pots, pans, food, gas, battery, awning, etc. Exceeding this weight is illegal and is classed as overloading.
A general consensus (not a legal stipulation) is that the towing vehicle will cope better and the outfit will handle better if the caravan or trailer doesn't exceed 85 per cent of the towing vehicles kerb weight. Of course if the manufacturers towing weight is lower than 85 per cent of the vehicles kerb weight, the lowest is the best.
Those of you with a PC can download a program from out FTP machine called OUTFIT.EXE which will help you work out the weights. You need to enter the car's Kerb Weight and a Caravan Maximum Allowable Weight. If you play around with different weights you will find the 85% figure.
Animals can be carried in a trailer (but not recommended), it's illegal for people to
ride in the trailer whilst being towed.
Maybe. The stability of an car and caravan outfit is affected by many things. They all
have a bearing on how stable the outfit will be. For instance, if the caravan has an end
kitchen, think about having all that weight at the end of a pendulum. It will tend to
exaggerate any swaying movement. So, concentrating the weight low down over the axle helps
keep the outfit stable. Also, it's better if heavy items are stored lower, so tinned food
and bags of potatoes should preferably be stored low down near the axle as well. The
awning is the heaviest item in most 'vans, so don't store this in a rear locker.
Also check tyre pressures (car and trailer/caravan). These can affect stability too,
especially if the pressures are different on either side.
Having a higher nose weight is also thought to make an outfit more stable, but don't
exceed the car manufacturers nose weight limit.
Doing all the above, should lessen any swaying. Fitting a stabiliser should dampen any
further tendencies to sway and
keep the outfit stable.
If you have a badly loaded and mismatched outfit, and then fit a stabiliser in an attempt
to stop it swaying, you may find that one day the violence of the sway becomes so powerful
that the stabiliser can't cope..... you are insured aren't you?
It's better to have a correctly matched and loaded outfit to keep the tendency to sway to
a minimum to start off with and then fit a stabiliser to guard against the day you get a
bad one. It should then be able to dampen the sway and not be overwhelmed.
Yes. (assuming it is in a vehicle :-})
Automatics can tow very well. For a start there's no clutch to fry when you set off!
But you must check in your owners handbook for any limitations. Towing vehicles with
Automatic gearboxes may have different manufacturers limitations on towing weights. Check
the handbook. You may have to fit a transmission fluid oil cooler above a certain weight
of trailer or caravan. The consensus is it's safer to fit an oil cooler to keep the
gearbox running cool even if you're towing below the weight the manufacturers specify for
fitting one. (And it's cheaper than frying the gearbox). Also, if the transmission fluid
hasn't been changed recently (ever!) then change it for fresh.
The myth that you can't tow with an automatic probably comes from owners handbooks warning
about the car BEING towed. In this case, there are reasons why a car with an automatic
shouldn't BE towed. There's no reason why a car with an automatic gearbox can't tow a
trailer or caravan.
Nose weight is the weight the hitch pushes down on the cars towball. Cars can have a
wide range of nose weights specified. Things that have an influence on nose weight are the
softness of the rear springs and the amount of rear overhang (the distance between the
back wheel and the towball).
To adjust the nose weight, it's simpler if you imagine the caravan as a giant see-saw
balancing on the wheels. If you put weight at the back of the caravan, the nose weight
goes down, weight at the front of the caravan means more nose weight.
You can adjust the ratio of front to back weight to adjust the nose weight. But remember
not to exceed the manufacturers maximum allowable weight and overload the 'van.
There are things that affect nose weight that can't be changed. You probably have to store
the gas bottles at the front of the 'van. The heavy kitchen appliances may be at the back
of the 'van.
Also remember to consider how the weight distribution affects stability when you are
moving things around. If you put something heavy at the back to lighten the nose
weight, it might seem OK when on the level but when you are going uphill..... it could
turn into a negative nose weight giving you all sorts of problems!
You can measure nose weight by different methods, but with ALL of them you should check
the weight at the hitch, not anywhere else.
You can use a purpose-made nose weight gauge that you prop the hitch up with and it reads
the weight.
As the typical nose weight is in the region of 55-75 Kgs (any lower is exceptionally low),
you could even use a set of bathroom scales. Use a block of wood on top of the scales (cut
to a length that puts the hitch at the same height it would be if hitched to the car). Put
the hitch on the wood and read off the weight on the scales.
Always switch off the gas when travelling. If necessary the fridge can run off 12v
using a supply from the car (not the caravan battery) via the grey 12s socket to keep it
cool. Service stations usually forbid naked flames of any type in their
parking areas, which includes fridge pilot lights and cookers. (So no swift kettle-on
brews...you have to pay their prices, or use a 12v kettle). ;-)
The consequences of having a pilot light fail or a pipe fracture allowing gas to escape
into traffic, or pulling onto a petrol station forecourt with a pilot light still lit are
only too obvious.
On "normal" single carriageway roads where the national speed limit applies
for solo vehicles (60mph) the limit for vehicles towing trailers or caravans is 50mph.
On dual carriageways and motorways where the national speed limit of 70mph applies for
solo vehicles, the speed limit for vehicles towing trailers or caravans is 60mph.
On roads where there are marked speed limits, this applies to both solo vehicles and
vehicles towing trailers or caravans.
The rules are different for agricultural and commercial vehicles when towing. Some, but
not all of the above may or may not apply. (How's that for being vague?). So check
with the transport authorities or the police if your towing vehicle comes into these
categories. If you think your tow car can be classed as an agricultural vehicle then
don't come to the same site that I am using! :-}.
The House of Hastings Ltd, Queens Rd, Hastings, East Sussex has them. I saw them in the window when I passed by in early June 1998. Their Telephone is: 01424 423072
Phil - the web.
Johnnie Longden Ltd
Unit 24, Dawkins Road, Poole, Dorset, BH15 4SD
Phone 01202 679121/679122
========================================================
Try Magnum Mobiles (based in the old Cosalt yard) on Grimsby (01472) 353520.
They stock a huge range of caravan surplus items.
========================================================
Franks Caravans of Luton. They break 'vans, and also have
loads of new spares. Their telephone number is 01582 732168.
========================================================
G.M. Chambers
Autotech Leisure Services
Linden lea
Wimborne Road
Lytchett Matravers
Poole
Dorset
BH16 6HQ
tel. 01202 622195 fax 01202 622591
mobile 0976 256514
========================================================
Worsley caravan centre
The old boatyard
Worsley rd.
Worsley
0161 728 2825
(Just off JUNC 13 m62)
This was asked on the newsgroup and a reply from Ian Broadbent who is in the cover business, is worth reading for those who may want to buy a cover:
Hello all,
A division of my Company makes anti-condensation covers for industrial machinery, etc to
keep at bay the worst effects of damp/condensation. I have often thought about extending
the range into shaped caravan covers, but as a keen caravanner myself I couldn't
sell something that I wasn't entirely convinced would solve all the problems and wouldn't
in effect introduce some new ones.
Basically I am not convinced that a simple "cover" would be any benefit at all. The problem with any cover is that if it is effective at keeping out the elements then it must also trap within it any dampness, (unless we make them from something like Gore-Tex(tm) which is a "breathable" material and would be VERY expensive for the quantities required). On our industrial covers we overcome that particular problem by incorporating into the design moisture traps filled with a de-hydration/desiccant agent (Silica Gel) and/or pumping filtered and dried air into and out of a sealed environment. To do this on something as large as a caravan would not be cheap; and not to do it properly would be to simply trap any moisture already there under the cover. This moisture of course if not removed (dried by chemical or airflow means) can quickly lead to unsightly mould and mildew; or worse dry-rot spores are invasive and present in the atmosphere naturally, they thrive in any area which has limited ventilation, a nice steady temperature and humidity level, a supply of vegetable matter (wood for preference), and a seeding of moisture to get it started. Now I am not saying that dry-rot is probable or would definitely be a problem in a van wrapped up in a non-breathable cover, simply that it is a possibility and one I/we would not be happy to run the risk on. Remember if you will that the dampness in the van has to come from somewhere, is it external (bad seam sealing, etc) or internal (inadequate ventilation from a daily usage of the shower, etc). The internal problem (condensation and excess vapour) is one that can generally be easily solved by increasing ventilation. The external is down to design and sealant condition. Keep both of these two in order and I wouldn't have thought that a caravan cover (which is basically a shaped tarpaulin albeit of modern polymer materials) would be of any benefit.
In short then in my/our opinion for the cover to protect and preserve it would have to include the elements of moisture removal and controlled airflow; and that would make it an expensive option and beyond the reach of most caravanners.
For information, just in case anyone comes back to ask how much I would estimate one of our 'industrial' style covers would be, I would guess (subject to size of van etc) that it would be in the region of £1500 - £2000. Now that would be for a fully encapsulated cover with sufficient chemical desiccant to continue working for a matter of say 2-3 months during winter before needing recharged and a controlled/filtered airflow. At that price I do not expect to have hordes of people sending me/us orders, and anything less effective would be in my opinion a waste of money and probably not wholly effective. (I couldn't claim that a controlled unit would be 100% effective either but should be better than 95%).
Sorry this has dragged on, and I hope that my comments/feedback help a little. If I am wrong and there is a demand for an industrial cover then please contact me and I/we will work up a more accurate estimate of the prices for anyone interested.
"Ian E. Broadbent" <ieb@smrtstuf.demon.co.uk>
------------------------------------
Other contributors to the newsgroup have warned of problems with a cover rubbing right through the paintwork because of its movement in the wind.
Phil <the web>
The first thing to do is take the fridge out of the motorcaravan and turn it upside
down, give it a good shaking and leave it upside down for at least 24 hours.
Reconnect it and see if it works, try it on gas if you can, or if not, 240v. Don't waste
your time with 12v for now.
If it works OK, it was just that the chemicals had separated out due to lack of use. If it
doesn't I'm afraid it's going to be a costly replacement or an extortionate repair :-(
Geoff Valenti <Geoff@jazzland.demon.co.uk>
Beware the swivel type window fastening.
You now the type used on many Caravans it secures the window by swivelling on a pin and
latching into a groove in the holder screwed to the Caravan. Thieves can get in using a
thin piece of metal in about two minutes. They get in close the window, steal, then go out
thro the door. How can one get over this?
On my van's 'roll over' catches there is a hole in the swinging plate that coinsides
with the screw on the fixed plate ( to allow adjustment).....
1) Trip to B&Q or the like and purchase several Mirror fixing screws (the removable
screw caps thread will be too short)
2) Trip to local ironmongers purchase longer threaded screws to replce short caps
3) Remove fixed plate screw on window frame and replace with mirror fixing screw.
4) Close window and catch....fit longer cap screw through adjustment hole .
Lever locked! Worked for me ...kink in the unopend window to attest the worth.
P.S. The mirror fixing screws are expensive ...about .50p each.
John & Pat Street ...Edmonton London
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