Don't worry if you are not mechanically minded. If you are very careful, you can free up some of the optic pinch in SCTs.
You need a piece of paper-thin teflon that's larger than your aperture. Remove the metal retaining ring that holds the corrector plate down. First mark the corrector and scope so that the corrector can be put back on exactly at the proper place. Use the retaining ring as a template for a teflon ring gasket. Cut out some small teflon squares and glue them to the cork internal ring. The corrector, when placed back on, would be resting on the teflon squares, and not on the cork. The larger teflon gasket goes on next before the metal retaining ring. Be sure that you punched out holes in the teflon gasket for the screws. It is important not to over-tighted the hex screws on this ring. Snug them, then back off. Tension now has been relieved off the corrector at the edges.
The secondary, with corrector removed, can be unscrewed. Be careful of the plastic. You will have the inside ring and outside holder with the secondary. Next, remove the hex adjustment screws and the holder will come out. You will notice that the whole secondary has been glued down. A thin knife will free the the mirror from the silicon glue.
You now take three toothpicks or wires and three-spot the secondary with silicon glue. The secondary can be placed back on the mount. The toothpicks, or wires, will hold the secondary off the mount until the glue dries, after which they can be removed. Being held in three places on the mount, instead of on the whole surface, will allow the secondary to better expand and contract. Before replacing the secondary and mount to the corrector, cut two teflon o-rings, one for each side of the holder. Now, when the secondary housing is screwed back on the corrector plate, there is no contact made between the secondary and corrector. It will be teflon buffered.
Now comes the fun of recollimation of the system, with the hex adjustment screws. Use a star test to get the secondary shadow in the middle of the diffraction rings. Note that after you are finely collimated this way, your secondary and housing will rotate to finer tune the optic, due to deviations of the secondary on its housing.
You have now relieved all stress on two optical surfaces.
Do NOT do this if you have a new scope, for I believe that it will null the warranty. If you feel nervous about working with your scope, leave it alone. The primary is another silicon nightmare, but I haven't been brave enough to tackle it yet.
Terry Chatterton