Project - Ariel KG 500 restoration page

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Continuing from the previous page, I received a new old Auto-advance unit from Victor Horley, which really did the job.

(Just comparing the two advance units)

(I observed that the alignment of the two pins were perfect on the new unit, but not on the old unit)

(Note the gab on the new unit, this limits the advanced position)

(These roller balls are in perfect condition)

(The advance unit dismantled)

When the unit were dismantled, I measured the balls, which were Ø = 14,3 mm and Length = 14,3 mm. (The weight - which is the most important one was not possible to measure, because I do not have a weight that accurate)

The old unit advanced about 40 degrees on the dynamo, but the new unit did about 30 degrees (need 34 - 38 degrees according to book). So I adjusted the auto advance unit slightly, to make it move the 4/2 = 2 degrees more. This was done by removing material from the metal arm bended downwards in the picture below (done in all 5 places) Be carefull not to take too much, and you will not be within the limit described in the Workshop manual.

I obtained a 4 degrees ATDC, with a 30 degrees BTDC in full advance.

Thanks Vic.

AMAL 276

Restoration of the Amal 276 Carb. The pictures below shows the state it was in when I started renovating - I got the Carb from Henrik Larsen:

Not a pretty sight, but that the fun part - to bring this Carb. to a worthy condition.

The Carb. was first washed with a toothbrush in ordinary soap water. Then I started to remove the old paint with fine steel-wool in soap water (only to the outside).
After some time with this., I managed to get it to look like the pictures below:

(Now I can actually see the type number - 276 FW/1B )

The external parts are now close to ready (needs some polish) - This is the result:

None of the internals are checked, and I quickly identify that the slide is extremely worn (can move slightly sideways in Carb.) This is fixed by getting a replacement slide. This does not fit - so the slide have to be carefully sanded to fit.

To get most control over the sanding speed, I use some 220-paper to make it slide with force, and then I switch to a 512-paper to adjust. You can se where to sand, if you take a permanent marker and color some parts of the slide, and then slide it in and out of the main body of the Carb. This way the marker will be removed where the slide hits the Carburetor wall.

(The paper types)

(The old and the new slide)

(The the effect of the marker can be seen here).

(The Slide is now a perfect fit).

Milestone Reached:

Putting the final touch. (Adjusting the Clutch)

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The Proud owner (ME) on the KG500 TWIN from 1950.

(Please don't mind the oil-worthy outfit, I just couldn't wait)

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01.05.2002 I finally got time to push the kick starter, and what a rush - When Looking back at the engine completely dismantled, and you wish you were out there riding the bike, its finally time to sit on it, and enjoy the ride, instead of laying below it and changing the oil pump.

The oil pump issues was the last thing that caused trouble:

When I started the motor for the first time, it took some time (and little more throttle) for the oil to reach 25 lbs as prescribed in the Users guide, but when riding it at increased throttle, it would stay at 25 lbs. When I go to idle it would fall to about ZERO!!! - Do I need to say that I stopped the ride.

I had an idea to what was wrong, and I looked at the previously taken pictures (LINK) because I was a little concerned about the oil pumps new gaskets. These were of the normal gasket material, and when measured, it proved to be 0.4 mm thick, but the original gasket (that I didn't throw out) was only 0.15 mm thick. The oil would more or less circulate within the oil pump.

I removed the oil pump from below the engine, and replaced the gasket with the old gasket, and that did the trick. When I started the engine, the pressure would climb to 25lbs immediately, and when a little throttle was applied, it would touch the next marker on the meter.

NOW IM SATISFIED. (Now I can slowly work on the appearance of the bike, and make it a real pretty - You just wait and se)

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Well ..... Not completely satisfied !!! Because I have completely forgotten to look at the electric circuitry, since the lights went out on the fatal trip last year. After dismantling the Dynamo, I saw that the armature had been so warm that the soldering tin has heated beyond fluid and have been centrifuged off the armature, to form a ring on the inside of the dynamos shell!!

And the Field coil did look a bit suspicious, so I ended up giving the dynamo a complete overhaul.

Remember - If you ever encounter this phenomenon on your dynamo, and you are planning on fixing this your self, then remember to check the bush plate (plate where you mount the coals), because the heat generated will make the bush plate brittle, and will break under little stress. This should changed.

I will try to make an autopsy of both the Field coil, to se if it is possible for a mortal to make one by off the shelf products.

--- MCR2 RB107 "Motor Cycle Control Box" ---

When looking closer at the electrical circuitry, I needed to know more about the charge relay box, so I came across the following PDF documents on the net:

Lucas Workshop Instructions for "Motor Cycle Control Box" - TYPE: MCR2

Lucas Workshop Instructions for "Motor Cycle Control Box" - TYPE: RB107

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Having experienced the wet-sumping, I decided to solve it for good, and while I was at it, wanted to fit a Oil filter:

Fresh Restored Oil pump supplied by Victor Horley, This should do some of the trick

Valve to shut the oil supply off to the engine. (only when at rest (-:)
(This has not been fitted, as the oil pump delivered from Victor Horley was able to stop the oil flowing to the engine)

The oil filter to fit on the KG.
This is where the oil filter is fitted on the bike - Between the gearbox and the rear mudguard.

I found that I had a 19T sprocket on the engine, and I really needed a 5´th gear at some times, so i discovered the the 19T was only for sidecar driving. - Im thinking about fitting a 23T or 24 T...

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Email me at - kimfm@runbox.com