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INTRODUCTION:

This is a book about bottled beer, bottled only. ONLY! Your experience and mine with the draft versions of these beers should and will vary. 

A quite word about brand names and nomenclature. I have endeavored when possible to list the beer under the brewery name first and then the trademark or market name second. For example if Smith Brewing Company makes a famous thing called Golden Suds Pilsner it will be found under Smith Golden Suds Pilsener. Since the major breweries are always changing hands I am not using the names of the owners in many cases.

The Brewbase Rating System is very simple. It's 5 bottles in the role of 5 stars. Basically, the 5 bottle beers are perfection, the pinnacle of the style or something worldclass in a class by itself. The 4.5 beers are very good or B+, very competant but lacking something. The 4.0 beers are decent if the price is right but one can always do much better. The 3.5 and 3.0 are pretty much good and average, respectively. The 2.5 and 2.0 are fair to poor, pretty much mass market pisswater, too weak or offensive or dilute be called beer, The very rare 1.5 and 1.0 are very poor and undrinkable.

Click on the style links below to read each section or search for a specific brand, label, or keyword.

ALE - AMBER


Aass Amber 
RATING: 5.0
Norway
From Drammen and Norway's oldest brewery (1834) comes this clear but dark amber in a wonderful shoulder-less bottle and 19th century style label. The taste is unique among those in this file. This all-natural beer is hard to describe but one finds the taste of golden hominy, hops, Pils, and herbs to be most apparent. It is very refined at all taste levels and with such sumptuous hoppy flavors it could become one's favorite of all ambers. I considered it the best new amber beer I tasted in 1992. 

Aass Jubilee
RATING: 5.0
Norway
This bottom-fermented and lagered ale takes 3 months to brew. The seasoning comes from Hallertau hops and the color proves light amber. The taste of hops and fruit are abundant like an good amber lager. Even though the cap has green and red colors it is NOTHING like their Christmas Winter Ale. As their regular Amber is not a lager it too is quite different. While perfect it is in a crowded field of amber fruity lagers - including several Americans. 

Abita Bock
RATING: 4.0
Abita Springs, Louisiana
From Abita Springs in Louisiana comes this bock that is not described anywhere on the packaging. Color is light amber and the carbonation is lasting. Flavor is modest but nicely sweet and malty. Like their Turbo Dog is needs a bit more flavor to really contend with the competition. It is LESS hoppy than Rolling Rock Bock and vastly superior to Shiner Bock. One almost gets a very slight mint flavor with it. While not worldclass it is satisfying and worth a try. Reviewers here noted "lovely semi-cloudy carmel color...nice sweet-fruit-malt blend" and "maybe not what German breweries send out as bock but still a rewarding drink with good balance...I'd prefer a bit more depth though". In 1995 three BrewBase users did give it a perfect 5 but most wanted more character.

Abita Bock (c. 1995)
RATING: 3.0
Abita Springs, Louisiana
These green and yellow painted bottles set us back just $2.29 (1995) and yielded a pumpkin orange beer with a persistant head and spritely carbonation. Like many Abita products it is a reasonable flavor value for the money but you never quite get worldclass quality. While their recent Fall Fest and Christmas 1994 specials were 'very good' (4 bottle rating here) this bock is not as enjoyable. There was a muddled flavor with some malt notes but no clear and orderly palate. The finish could be bitter (even at icy cold temps) and that too harmed the tasting experience. One of us described this as a bit like an 'amber malt liquor' as far as malt depth and clean finish were con- cerned. We know they can turn up the malt flavor. And they really must.

Abita Mardi Gras Bock
RATING: 3.5
Abita Springs, Louisiana
The bright orangish-gold (vaguely amber) pour has a very light, whitish head and limited carbonation. Noise is faint malt, pleasant so. I was surprised the the malt was so rich for sometime not nearly dark amber or brownish at all. The malt is warming, brothy, corn-flavored, bread-toastsy, somewhat faithful to the style but a notch or two weaker than what anyone is Germany would care to send over. There seems to be some confusion and visiting their website adds to it. Their "regular" Bock has a blue and blue-green label and is said on the web page to be "very popular..especially during our Mardi Gras season". It is apparently not this Mardi Gras Bock with comes with a foiled forest green label with a purple and gold foil on it; unless of course repackaging has been done for the local festival. My companion reviewers here notes the occasional off finish note but we did not find that in all glasses or bottles. It is okay and not great, acceptable and in being just acceptable it will probably go untried by us again. It's a tough world for acceptable, decent beers these days and our increasingly limited greenbacks are more apt to go for quality and flavor values. Let me check out that Saranac stock...

Algonquin Special Reserve Dark Ale
RATING: 3.0 
Formosa
This Canadian microbrew comes in 1 litre PLASTIC bottles like a big coke or something. That's a first for us. This selection which won the Gold Medal in 1991 Monde Selection is actually an AMBER ALE and not a dark beer of any sort. There are many darker ales in the world. The head is big, white, and foamy. It lingers. It first palate it appears somewhat thin but then a cascade of slight- ly fuller and sweet hops comes in. Reviewers comments that 'for an ale, dark or pale, it is remarkably thin on taste' and 'refreshing but still short of where it needs to be'. The misnaming was mentioned by nearly all and one noted that 'they need to RESERVE more ingredients to make it truly dark or truly ale...right now its neither.'

Anchor Steam Liberty Ale
RATING: 5.0
San Francisco, California 14
This traditional ale from SF CA is colored cloudy amber not unlike a good rich apple cider. Using top-fermented yeast they acheive a very persistant white head and abundant carbonation. It aged for months and dry-hopped in sealed vats. While we thought the Anchor Steam Beer was less than perfect this ale has a complex herbal taste of the first order. It can have a slight bitterness that might give Sierra Nevada Pale Ale a slight superiority.

Anderson Valley Boont Amber Ale
RATING: 5.0
California
This popular California amber is medium dark but still bright in a glass. The balance between hop and fruit flavors is refined and quite pleasant. When tasted head to head with North Coast Christmas Ale 1992 and Ruedrich's Red Seal Ale one can appreciate how hop flavors are more developed here with fruit more in the background. Finish is semi-dry. It is far sweeter and less herbal than Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. Both are equally sophisticated in their own way but beasts of a different order.

Avery Collaboration not Litigation Ale (Batch #2, Feb. 2008)
RATING: 4.0
Boulder, Colorado
If this big bottle had a celebritory cork I'd suspect this was a brew designed to help law firms laud a win between the walnut rails. Not a big market really but I'd figure they'd pay $212 a bottle but tip and make it worthwhile for some brewery. This 8.72% ABV offering pours cloudy amber (so far so great), lace as persistant as an ambulance chaser with speed-dial, and creamy, firm head like the new blonde temp in the Class Action Department...sorry, went too far. First nose was malt with a curious punch of pecan...and you know by know I never name a fruit for sake of effect. I tried to read the brief from the foiled label with miniature black, thin font letters but even my magnifying glass gave up and dropped to the floor. Apparently the folks at Avery and Russian River Brewing both had great ales called "Salvation" and instead of giving away half their future and copper kettles to some sleezy firm downtown, they agreed to blend their two ales and share the profits.

It tastes like a simple sweet malt with much tartness at first sip, later developing some even more thick barleywine moments, later more generic fruit, back to the bitter pecans, and then a finish dank and dry, malty all the while. Do we have a new arbitrated partnership of random and synergistic brilliance (which of course most of us as humans really are) or is it a hodge-podge of complex but inperceptable quality? Or something else? There are good fruity-nutty-malt passages that told me that we had a nice integrated, coherant product of 5.0 rating. Other sips are other temps were of the "everything but kitchen sink variety"; though the components were mostly a treasure chest of gold and gems. I'm a beer blender and am fairly decent at the odd art some 12 years into the passion. By now, I can tell as random blend from a purposeful, strategic one with a mission or at least half a goal. This is half a mission met and a great goal missed from my perspective as a drinker. From the brewery's slant it was thousands, maybe a mill saved, and I like their cleverness rendered into a fun marketing theme. Cool all that. But you must deliver in the glass - the full glass is everything - the ledger and marketing will take care of itself. It may have been their salvation but not mine. The amber doctrine hee is too merky, the sermon too timid, and the yet the pure delicious gospel all there in disjointed, jumbled notes. Cool idea but you don't get T.D. Jakes and Billy Graham by confusing the pulpit with the choir.

Ballast Point Calico Amber Ale
RATING: 4.5
San Diego, California
This stuff won a Gold at the GABF 2001 and another at the World Beer Cup 2002. Six different malts are used to produce this dark amber creation with a big cream head of long duration. The nose gives sweet, fruity malt notes. The taste is mid-strength, not rich or demanding for the expert, very effortless and velvety. The ale fruit notes are supportive and much needed with a product mixed with so many malts and also blended with nice tangy hops. I found it a nicely-weighed blend, replete with all the good stuff, and teeming with quality ingredients from early to late sips. "Smooth and complete" was what one of my pals said and he gave it a perfect 5.0 bottles. I am not so convinced but it is surely better than most amber ales.

Bass Country Chase Ale
RATING: 4.0
Burton-on-Trent, England
Brewed to celebrate the old autumn hunt this brew is darker than regular Bass Pale Ale and is more desirable. Northdown and Challenger hops are used to create a nice malty, semi-sweet flavor with hops being a minor theme. It is worth trying but we doubt it will make any enthusiasts 'Ten Best Ales' list. On the other hand the package (though not so much the label) is truly a work of art. We only wish other breweries invested so much effort. Reviewers noted 'pleasant and smooth but neither unique nor truly memorable...competant' and 'the best of their products I have tried but many a UK ale is more rewarding at this price'. Reviewers posted ratings from 3.5 to 4.5 so opinions did vary. The best overall conclusion: very good but not great.

Big Rock Buzzard's Breath Ale
RATING: 4.0
This 'private formula' comes in clear light amber with copious carbonation. It is more hop-flavored than their Warthog Ale but shares with it some of the sweet candy-type finish. The unpasteurized ale is quite pleasant but somehow lacks the complexity we'd expect in a premium North American ale. Their McNally's product and certainly Adam's Boston Ale provide more of a convincing and impressive drink. It will probably sell on the name alone. 

Big Rock Warthog Ale
RATING: 4.0
This clear amber ale has long-lasting carbonation and a flavor similar to McNally's made by the same brewery. While perhaps less flavorful than McNally's it shares the same candy-like finish and complexity of palate. Tasted together we must prefer McNally's although this 4 bottle selection will not disappoint many beer drinkers. The ink drawing of a warthog on the label makes this bottle very collectible and unique. 

Black Ram Ale
RATING: 4.5 
Masham, Yorkshire 
From the branded mark you might think it is 'Black Ham Ale' but clearer script tells you 'This is Black Ram Ale, a culmination of five generations of brewing expertise'. It is brewed at Paul Theakston's Black Sheep Brewery and some of you will recognize that Theakston named immediately - from the much-loved Old Peculier label. Color is medium amber with a dense ivory head. Moderate hop nose. It is a hop lovers dream with full and complex zippy flavors in rich excess. It is not so tart as an IPA but has some of those potent elements. The name confused some reviewers who expected a dark brown real ale and got one much paler - though fully as satisfying for many. One reviewer remarked on 'the sophisticated hops intensity that is neither sweet nor bitter...exactly spot on.

Black Sheep Wensleydale Riggwelter Yorkshire Ale
RATING: 4.5
North Yorkshire, England
This delightful amber ale comes with a fairly direct first approach, rounded hops and malt but in clear moderation. Head is beige and about as long as the name on the label. Finish has more complexity with molasses, sharp hops, caramel, and teases of other things. I personally like a bit more umph and potency in my $7.00 (July 2008) bottles of English ale but one cannot fault this style on those times when meals require it. It's good without being great, a phrase I like very much for this book. The name Riggwelter refers to a black sheep or some other beast overturned and helpless, a state which no doubt several of these large one pint bottles could produce in black sheep of the human species.

Boone Blowing Rock Winter Ale
RATING: 4.5
Wilkes-Barre, Pennsylvania
First of all, we are not sure on the relationship of their previous offered Winter Warmer (see review below) with the Winter Ale sold in Fall 2009. This one pours a beaming amber with a large rocky head in light beige, lasting well. My first reaction is that is a semi-sweet, English ale augmented lightly in hops, more fully hoppy by the finish and loaded with sugary caramel notes of moderate complexity. It's ultra-candy-hops ale pulled back to a respectable and entertaining level, a good balance of all fine winter ale things and yet terribly hard to make. It's good without being thrilling, satisfying only to our base instincts, fine for a party beverage but not a thing for a gathering of serious suds analyists. Competent but not memorable the whole week - I can say the same of my Aunt's predictably fun ambrosia salad and a couple of gals I see from time to time. There's a role for competant, predictable things of quality that don't exactly blow off the doors of your sensory mind.

Boone Blowing Rock Winter Warmer
RATING: 4.5
Wilkes-Barre, Pennsylvania
This specialty offering pours reddish-amber with a short-lived, smallish head. Their is light spice, some clove perhaps, general fruit ester (some think cherry is big), and there is clearly vanilla in the punch. It is not as big as some of the WW name but it is very accessible and smooth. Toasty malt is there, faint to moderate, sweetish but not richly so, varying with the temp and then come some faint caramel. Hops enter the finish late and with two or three in the belly, the hops flavor sticks more to the tongue, growing larger - they are oily of course. It is very pleasant and I think I pulled down four of the six the first evening while watching House M.D. Reviews online seem to be all over the map from low to high. While I think it should be more complex and layered, the entire effect and chilled, bright appeal takes it from 4.0 to 4.5 in my mind. I would not count on it warming (stick with stouts) but it...um...they cheered me up. Fine experience.

Boulder Singletrack Copper Ale
RATING: 4.5
Boulder, CO USA
Here we have a brew made with "Arapahoe Glacier Water" and honoring the singletrack bike riding terratory of that beautiful region. Reading the ingredients one quickly notices that this amber ale includes both malted barley and malted rye. The color is bright copper, as one would expect, below a sizeable cream-tinged head. It is reasonably sweet, providing a very sumptuous caramel malt flavor with just enough hops to please. Singletrack is certainly one of the better, more sophisticated American amber ales. Reviewers remarked on it's "tempting aromatic quality that is fully rewarded in every sip...satisfying in a mostly malty emphasis...only some hints of uncomfortable bitterness" and "very special....I've had nothing like it....delightful and maybe just a bit too sweet". Some gave it a perfect 5.0 rating. Judging from our experience with all rye beers we presume some of this brew's determinate character derives from that worthwhile ingredient.

Brains Traditional Welsh Ale
RATING: 3.0
Cardiff, Wales 
This luminous amber ale with a beige head is made at the Old Brewery of S.A. Brain in Cardiff, capital of Wales. Brain's have been making ales since 1713. This ale is certainly 'subtle at best and semi-light at worst' in the words of a taster here. There is a smooth, light hops appeal and a semi-sweet, smooth finish. To the Real Ale movement this must seem like a failure, traditional or not - though when American mainstream brewers say 'tradition' they ignor the rich brews their ancestors perfected. We trust this not the case here. However less than 7% of our reviewers indicated they would drink this product again. There seems to be no market we know about for such thin ales at UK import prices. The classy red, green, black label was the only honor here.

Brakspear Henley Ale
RATING: 4.5
Henley-on-Thames, England
Say it very clearly. That is BRAKspear. Since 1779 (mere young novices by British standards) they have made fine fresh and bottled ales that come highly recommended to our team. In exported bottle form is proves glowing amber with copious lace and a firm foamy head. It has a nice hoppy flavor and aroma but is not so much as Bitter as Bateman's Victory Ale. It is very smooth for that style and is less idiosyncratic than many exported UK ales. If you British ale tastes run more toward semi-sweet than the bitter side of the range this will surely. Our experience in the Southeast is that ts tends to be rare and when found a bit pricey. Well worth a try. 

Breckenridge Avalanche Ale
RATING: 3.5
Denver Co\Breckenridge CO\Dallas TX\Buffalo NY
Named for Breckenridge Colorado and a famous ski resort, this amber ale proves to be more golden than amber under full light. The head is ivory and of medium persistance. It has medium hops bitterness and flavor (not enough for all re- viewers we must confess) and a sort of nip not found with all ambers. The brew is age-stamped, 100% natural, and should be kept refrigerated. The label says it is 'full bodied but tastes lighter than it actually is'. That statement is hard to debate on any front but suffice it to say some of us were not fully impressed at $6.99. It did win the 1996 and 1996 Silver Medal at WBC in the Amber Ale group. Some folks who had no quibble with the depth said it seemed 'odd' - 'unique' to the bigger fans. Check out www.breckbrew.com if you like.

Brew Dog 5 A.M. Saint
RATING: 4.0
Scotland
At 5% ABV this is one of BD's less potent formulas. It pours dark amber under a head so large and foamy you'd think it came with a cork. This "iconoclastic amber ale" actually has an American Pale Ale nose and so do many of the early notes. Then you get a bit more warming, soothing malt notes and find the final analysis to be like a blend of 75% APA and 25% malty brown ale; a blend which I often make on my own for fun. The ingredients are solid and the strength 4 out of 10 with 10 being Imperial APA. It's an amber for hop lovers who think most of this category should favor the glorious, master vine.

Brewery Hill Honey Amber
RATING: 4.0 
Wilkes-Barre, PA 
This Wilkes-Barre ("wilks-berry") brewery produces this fine pale amber brew flavored with a small addition of honey. The result is a moderately flavored amber with hops-malt balance but not an impressive amount of either. The finish is sweet as one would expect. And if you ask us this 'honey beer' trend is getting out of hand. Beer is beer and it should not be made too much like soda. The world needs beer not another Malti-Cola or Hopsi. Overall the beer was pleasant and very drinkable in quantity and the $6.75 price seemed fair. For us a trend toward more flavor and less honey would be welcome. It has nothing special to rec- ommend it over the usual honey beer although a few a more pricey.

Brewski Brew Pub Classic
RATING: 4.0
Portland, Oregon
Brewski of Portland calls this 'The Greatest Name in Beer' (tm). That and the $5.50 price made us suspicious. So did the claim 'freshest' with no dating mark on the label. This golden amber proved to have a long-lived head and some nice hop flavor. While good it is not as complex and impressive as Sierra Nevada Pale Ale or Black Dog Pale Ale for example. While the first taste is pleasant it finishes a tad thin and occasionally with an off note. Bronze Medal in 1993 GABF in American Lager group. 

Brooklyn Pennant Ale '55
RATING: 4.5
Utica, NY
Yes, it's made in Utica and I personally take no offense, historical or otherwise, to that fact. It's not like Utica isn't a sharp brew town and Brooklyn is just loaded full of free space for worldclass breweries. Before I go on with my usual ramblings, it bears noting this is a tribute the 1955 Brooklyn Dodgers. They beat the Yankees four games to three and was their first and only World Series title in that location. Take a look at this web page for more history on the tribute: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1955_Brooklyn_Dodgers_season

Glorious amber hues are covered by a foamy ivory head. Nose is mixed, complex, overall malty. First flavor is complex, rich, and unusual, mid-bodied overall, floral hops + malt overall. Fruit is weak but present. It carries to oddity of crystal malt notes and I find this form of them very pleasant. Yet there are more notes...many more. I could not come up with all of them so went online to ideas. Some terms included "pine", "minty hops", "mustiness", "grainy", "grape", and "nuttiness". I think the graininess is quite accurate for it comes off a tad novel like a rye or sorghum ale. Digging more, I found that it is Maris Otter malts that may be giving this toasted flavor I like and do not find very often. Ratings here and elsewhere are very variable, high standard dev for sure.

Budweiser American Ale
RATING: 3.5
everywhere (and hopefully soon...nowhere)
One gets the idea they are going after Sam Adams with all their patriotic, American-based images. Could they even come close, dosing their brew with as much hops and malt the Sam, Wicked, and Sierra folks. If they could at a lower price we'd have a Hyundai or Lexus of beers. The website claims a heritage back to 1876. So why did it take a century and a quarter to get back to flavor? "Carefully brewed" is a phrase used everywhere and for a reason I suppose. They use caramel malted barley from "America's Heartland" with Cascade hops. "It's more than a new taste...it's a new tradition". What? I thought we were going back to our heritage. Reminds me of about twelve politicians I've been watching recently on TV. New but old, traditional but progressive, and innovative but old-fashioned. Breweries seem to want to have all old and all new at once. They lot of them must think we're idiots. I'm disappointed in fact (I was in truth cheering for them and my troubled wallet) that they do not come anywhere near Sam or Pete or anyone else in the macro-micro world. It may be the best Bud product in years but that is not really a compliment.

Color is amber, notes of medium malt, and a bit citrus please on first approach. The finish is a let down for those who love real hops and malt and anything approaching complex beauty. Carbonation might be overdone. It's a tad too acidic to drink in any mass way but then again that is taboo these days. It might be a value among the big producers but even a little grocery store will have better things for a buck or two more. Compare it to Saranac products which at hardly much more (no more on sale) and yet have rich hops and malt to a better degree. A-B toned down a micro recipe for the masses and priced it to match. They may do well with that price/ingredient point but not with me.

Burton Double Diamond Ale
RATING: 4.5 
Burton-on-Trent, England
Made since 1876 the 'double diamond' symbol was originally chalked on kegs to denote Burton's finest ale selections. The twin gems now stand for what is correctly called (here at least) ORIGINAL BURTON ALE. Color proves light amber with a limited creamy head. It is fairly dry and of moderate strength overall. It has good ale fruit notes with a finish mixed with hops bitterness and less fruit. Most reviewers felt this classic in the ale world (indeed the entire realm of brewing) is still worthy of praise though few said it would be their top choice in modern times. There are simply so many fine ales from several countries to render this $10.00 sixpack something of an occasional treat. Not all fans felt the legend was worth the extra cash.

 Clipper City Heavy Seas 2008 Below Decks Barley Wine Style Ale
RATING: 4.0
Baltimore, Maryland
The label mentions a fine layer of yeast in the bottom but with a strong swish I saw a tad bit of sediment. In the glass it glows a medium amber, long deep cream head. First sip is a medley of fruit esters, some highly strange notes, a malt backbone, 10% ABV punch for sure, and faint hops of mixed character. A beer so full of flavor and EtOH in a 12 oz. package is not typical of any country and certainly not a US microbrew; although these very strong, potent limited edition things are coming out more frequently in the late 2000's. The label's "fire in the hole" cartoon shows dynamite in a keg above an ale keg. The fruitiness is nice and reviewers on the web and in print mention every damn genus and species in the produce department; and that tells me they either have a mass spec machine calibrated to all known fruit esters in their brain or are bluffing us with pretentious crap. It's generic tart fruit married to malt and any pompous chat about cherry or kiwi or pineapple is...um...that purple stuff birds leaves on our windshields when done analyzing fruit. The elevated ethanol level is expected in the barley wine but in this case it gets in the way of a respectable, well-mannered finish. It is dynamite and ale exploding below decks on the heaving seas but my stomach and tastebuds are not impressed with such raw excess for it's own sake. The Belgians, Germans, and a hand full of American masters have found a way to deliver big alcohol and big flavor without it being a concussion deep into the chestwall and a boozy cringe to the tender oral buds.

Coastal/Fordham Pamlico Amber Ale
RATING: 3.5
Dover, Delaware
The labels says this brew is from Coastal Brewing but they appear to be an imprint or subsidiary of Fordham. This stuff turned up in stores in NC in very late 2008 as a new microbrew. It's just 4.7% ABV and is surprising sweet for an amber. The sugaring covers over the modest flavors. It favors malt slightly over hops but not by too much. It's very smooth in the finish but is neither distinguished or really yummy on my tongue. It got more pleasantly tart after 3 bottles but it's another miss in my book; a try for experience only me lads.

Coniston Bluebird Bitter
RATING: 5.0
Coniston, Cumbria, England
Winner of the 1998 CAMRA Supreme Champion Beer of Britain award, this light amber ale has a very long-lived, faintly aromatic head. Bottle-conditioned with Challenger hops from a single farm Ian Bradley and Rob Irwin also employ pale and crystal malts. The result is simply a revelation. The flavor is at once flavorful and yet remarkably smooth. It has the appeal of a dry bitter and all the charm of a rich pale ale. Given the state of imported British ales these days one is likely to associate this more closely with the best of American pales ales. As far we know Challenger hops are not typical of two many Brit bitters. It is simply the best British ale we've tried in some time. For those of us crown collectors the glowing, blue metallic cap is a gem. This was my favorite British Ale in 2000 of all new trials.

Coors Eisbock
RATING: 4.0 
This long-gone product was at the time, the best coors product I'd tried until 1994. Eisbock in its original German form was the original ice-brewed beer with something that the latest Ice fad forgot - REAL FLAVOR. Happily this Spring 1994 Coors adventure is sweetly flavored with amber chocolate maltiness and rich pale golden amber color. This is undoubtedly the best Coors product ever! The packaging is genuine art and first rate. We are still looking for the promised creamy head and would like a richer finish. A 'must try' surprise. 

Cotleigh Barn Owl Premium Ale
RATING: 5.0
Wiveliscombe, Someret, England
I got a three-pack of 500milers from the Birds of Prey series, each bottle showing a near-Audobon quality bird portrait and each purchase supporting the Hawk and Owl Trust. While just 4.5% ABV, this beverage shouts true British ale with subtle nut flavors, toasty warm caramels, subtle malts, and bittersweet hops lovingly added to augment the finish. Goldings, Fuggles, and Northdown hops are layered upon each other. It pours such a flashy copper-amber nearly any other ale on the bar will look less interesting. Cotsleigh as a name dates from 1979 but this brewery has been around 200 years. Wonderful, a nicely consistent, true-to-style excellence in every way. 

Cotleigh Tawny Owl Ale
RATING: 4.5
Wiveliscombe, Someret, England
Like their 500ml Barn Owl, this tawny beast comes with a paler golden-amber color and a very mild 3.8% ABV. The consider it a session ale, loaded with mild fruit, also citrus, biscuty malts, and some toffee. It is far more subtle except for the tanginess of the finish - less bitter than the Barn Owl. I find the true fruits more clear here and yes it is very session-worthy. I prefer it cold but not too frozen on the order of average American bar way of delivering things so frosty you can't tell if your tongue exists anymore. They have their own Cotsleigh yeast and in this respect the 200-year-old heritage trumps the 1979 origin of this particular label. Here is good education for the ale lover in all of us. Here's the real core of all differences between a truly weak, poor ingredient amber ale and one just low in ABV but loaded with quality subtle flavors. In the beer realm like most in life, there is a great difference between ambiance and shallowness, mildness and cheapness, reserve versus weakness.

Courage Amber Lager
RATING: 4.0
Staines, England
While John Courage has been around only since 1787 (young by European stand- ards) this imported amber is now a worldwide classic. Even with the name it it surprisingly pale amber (only 'deep gold' in some opinions). The head is large but carbonation is scarce. Our panel agree that flavor is 'delicate or subtle' (a few say too weak) and 'unusually sweet for a Brit'. A full bottle is deducted as the finish has some 'indecision' and many other ambers are out there with greater character, refinement, and depth. Since our original rating of '5' in 1990 a host of American, Canadian, and European ambers have taken a higher place. Standards are higher now. Courage is a has been and the lower price of 640ml bottles shows it. It's good but we can all find better.

Dergy's Amber Ale
RATING: 4.0
Wilmington NC
The Wilmington Brewing Co. of North Carolina produces both a golden and an amber ale at their microbrewery. The amber is bright with a very long lasting head of minute foamy bubbles - it lasts 10 minutes or more! The flavor is of the MALTY AMBER class. The finish is just a bit shallow and too dry for our tastes. This C O U L D easily be a perfect MALTY AMBER. It starts as a sweet malt soda but trails off into less flavor and more dryness than it needs. At this $8.00 price (even nearby in NC) one expects an amber with just the right sophistication from start to finish. It is best when quite cold but anything warmer is to be avoided. The head is truly remarkable. It is well worth a try. We tried it against Rogue's Amber Ale and it was less complex.

Dilworth Albemarle Ale
RATING: 5.0
Charlotte, North Carolina
Promoted as 'Carolina Fresh' this Southern microbrew was new to us in Raleigh in Fall 1994. It has no additives and preservatives and won a Bronze Medal at the 1992 Great American Beer Festival. Color is bright amber with a decent foamy head. Dilworth Brewing returned to brewing in 1989 to regenerate the roots of Altantic Brewery closed in 1956. This beer is stunning. You first notice the aromatic quality. Then you get a malty molasses bite not unlike a good Scottish or Old Peculiar Ale. It has both strong character and a candy-like charm - It reminded us of the worldclass quality of a Bert Grant ale. $8.00 a six and worth much more. 

Dilworth Red Hot & Blue Brew
RATING: 4.0 
Charlotte NC 
This beer with guitar-playing pigs in Blues Brothers shades was made for the Red Hot and Blue club by Dilworth of Charlotte NC. Compared to their wonderful Albemarle Ale (Bronze Medal at GABF) this shares a similar aroma and candy- carmel flavor. Color is dark golden tinged amber and the head is white and long-lived. We're not prepared to say this and Albemarle are the same but the same theme is used. Both of them will be certain to thrill you. Even consumed at warm (car trunk) temps it was enjoyable - something that is true of almost any well-hopped or fully-malted microbrew.

Dogfish Raison D'etre Ale
RATING: 4.0
Milton, Delaware
Very class amber look, no real carbonation after a minute, a rocky nice head. At 8% ABV we have a little of a cross between a dark Belgian product and a good American mahogany ale. Roasted malts come to the brain quickly, a trace of carmel, then a bit moe, and faint sugar, a pleasant bit of ethanol, then heavy fruit (figs?), more sugar malt, more dryness again. But like any hybrid it's just as apt to have the parent's flaws as their strengths. If anything, this is an dark ale by committee, not too extreme, less to offend, not too much one style or another, and thus a compromise, a refined one, but not an admirable, brilliant, or focused one. If I want these blended styles and presentations, I pretty much want a full blown, high ABV Belgian item. Besides I can always take a Belgian corked product on sale and blend it weaker to fit a specific meal. I'm not calling this Belgian Light but it is Belgian Compromised Down. Perhaps if one considers price you have a market here. Just not for me.

Duchy Originals Organic English Ale
RATING: 3.5
Highgrove, England
This is as close to TRUE royal beer, at least in the Uk sense. This organic stuff is made by the Duchy folks AKA His Royal Highness Charles, Prince of Wales. The profits go to his charities says the label and it also qualifies for the USDA Organic seal. Color is rich amber, quite hazy at that, not as full on first sip as expected but nearly satisfying in the finish. This "traditional yet exclusive" recipe using Plumage Archer barley and meets HRH's goals for the company to "Protect and Sustain". Duchy Originals also makes baked goods, wine, cider, sparkling water, herbal tea, biscuits (cookies), soups, honey, and many things more. Guess they forgot the full, traditional flavor of real ale when putting out the hives and vineyards! This is nice on it's own, hardly strong enough for the price, and not what Charlie's land stands for. Didn't he spend hours and many TV shows proclaiming the weakening of British architectural standards? His own brewing standards would bear similar scrutiny. I've had ordinary cheap import Bass Ale give more flavor. Compare this to the equally organic St. Peter's English Ale (under Golden Ales) and the Duchy better go home.

The Duck-Rabbit Amber Ale
RATING: 3.5
Farmville, North Carolina
This beer pours bright amber with a nice cream head of limited duration. This proves to be my least of favorite of their several dark-toned products - and they do not due golden anything by choice. The malt is very earthy, quickly becoming thin towards the finish, a bit of tartness that is short-lived, and hops very limited at all flavor positions. Very faint spice and grain come out and these are quality-filled themes but reside far to the back and then not enduring. Sweetness is not high but a notch over medium; maybe 6 on a 10 scale. Yet at times one gets sour notes (overcoming the caramel), grainy density of mixed value, and odd tartness in place of legit fruit. I'll be brutally honest having experience with five of their products to date. This one needs to be hung up until repaired; more than a tire rotation, this one needs a turbocharger on the recipe or lots of fast-furious tuning. Their brown ale is decent and does what this one could or should. Obviously the two labels must be differentiated but this execution is as weak and untidy as the flavors. There are several ways they can go to keep this different from the nice brown ale. It's their worst product of five tried and was a disappointment. The dishelved duck has fat furry ears and the calico, mottled rabbit is treading water for his very life. I've noted some online reviews which gave it a B+ or A grade from the tap version. Perhaps it only the bottled stuff that is bewildering, in disarray, and underpowered. 

Eel River Triple Exultation Ale
RATING: 5.0
Scotia, California
With the large bottle, barrel-aged status, and the word Triple in the name, I'd expected another California copy of a Belgian Brown Ale or at least a strong amber in a Flemish style. It is classed by the brewing house themselves as Old Ale, whatever that means. That would be a traditional, strong English ale with lots of malt and fruit in general terms. Old Peculiar was their model according to the website. The "ramped up" the ingredients to nearly 100 IBU, 24.0 OG, and the alcohol to a firm 9.7%. They call it the "Ozzy Osbourne of Old Ales" and I'm not sure if that means it's full volume and head-bitting wild OR impossible to decipher and a more than a bit past it. Ozzie does look a bit aged in a barrel now that I think of it and Sharon more than bright amber; their children in reality Stout in build and Light in talent. (Sorry, I couldn't fit fruity sediment or any ample yeast joke into the analogy).

The color is a rich, darkish amber and the bottle swirls with delicious sediment. It is magically fruity in flavor, almost a diverse fruit punch of yummy notes, and yet with some bitter hops in the finish. And I mean "fruit punch" in the sense of homemade 100% juice punch using 22 different organic, tropical fruits and not that canned, dyed, corn syrup that has no relationship to Hawaii or actual fruit at all. It won a Gold at 2006 GABF and a Silver in 2005 at the Worlds. The current version, at least, is Certified Organic, and I cannot think of another high-scored ale with the organic plus working for it. The alcohol is somewhat noticable, always in a good way tempered by full fruit esters and a little sweetness. Like many beers the hops kind of stick to your tastebuds (or brain) and get more obvious later on. The brewery's comparison to Old Peculiar is well...peculiar. That legendary beer is much more densely medicinal, dark as wood strain, and with more dripping Blackstrap than all the S&M parlors in Tribeca. Caramel malt holds it all together, overall a competant balance, and fruit trades off with toffee treats throughout the mid notes. Finish is fruity dry with following malt of intermediate strength, then a bit sweeter until your tongue detects some EtOH. You really want to drink it all up rather than move on the next bottle - and that is a compliment of the highest order in this field.

Elephant Red
RATING: 3.0
Canada
This tri-lateral beer is the work of Labatt of Canada under a license from Carlsberg (Elephant Beer) of Denmark under the marketing power of Anheuser- Busch of the old USA. The REAL Carlsberg Elephant beer is quite impressive but this red amber fluid from up north is not so ideal. It is semi-sweet (sugars are a cheap way to add appeal) and the flavor is clearly malty. The large white letters that proclaim '5.6 % alcohol' temp one to a quicker and deeper 'buzz'. This beer is better than most A-B or Canadian brews but where complexity and hops are needed we only find a malty 'pop' with a bright coloration. At $6.50 this is no bargain. At that price and with a beast so much bigger than a red wolf or red dog we would expect more power.

Elk Mountain Amber Ale
RATING: 4.0
Merrimack, New Hampshire
This product of Anheiser-Busch's Special Brewing Group is one of the finest things A-B has ever put their name on. Color is very bright orange (not nearly a reddish-amber). The earth tone label with a beautiful and elegant elk is real art. Unfortunately neither the bottles nor the packages gives any clues as to the processes or ingrediants, leaving us with some questions concerning its unusual color, additives, preservatives, and usual tricks found in the A-B and 'Big Four' brewing labs. The flavor is nice with malt and hops well filled out and a finish that goes from sweet to rather dry in one second. It is not perfect nor hugely well-rounded but at $5.50 or so has potential we hop they explore. It is far superior to Red Wolf.

Fiddler's Green Amber Ale
RATING: 4.0
Utica, NY
The color is rich amber, the head full beige, and the aroma a sweet tantilizing hint of malt. The head will last all day. The flavor is grainy malt much like some German darks, moderately sweet and not overdone on that front. There are some thin or hollow notes toward the finish and these intensify as the temp drops. It must be served more cold than an amber usually requires for this reason. The nice dose of "comfort malts" is remarkable and gives the beer a substance behind the density of the ingredients. Hops is virtually absent except in faint echos in the background. I found it engaging but not completely memorable a week out. (Try 30-40 beers some week and 7 days later have yourself recite unaided from memory the best ones back in order. It's an interesting experience). It is surprisingly Germanic in style, a fair copy, and priced to move on that theme alone.

First Reserve Southern
RATING: 4.5
Winston-Salem, NC 
This bright amber brew has a deep, enduring head of ivory foam. It absolutely fills the air with hops with even a remote sniff. The flavor is however not overly hopped and the dose of the Liberty variety is enhanced with ginger - something done by Old Raleigh Brewing of that nearby city. Drum-roasted carmel malts add to the flavorful yet smooth mix. Overall we'd class it as a SWEET HOP- PED AMBER ALE, being different from the majority of microbrew Pale Ales in this country. Reviewers noted 'skillful blend of hops and ginger with only hints of malt...a brew stronger or weaker would be less fulfilling...just perfect.' and 'a bit too sweet like ginger marmelade for my taste in ales...very worth- while experience'. Beautiful label looks aged a hundred years. Nice cap too.

Fordham Copperhead Ale
RATING: 3.5
Dover, Delaware/Maryland
Fordham was established a brewery in 1703 and re-established as a modern microbrewery in 1995. This is their flagship beer and one honoring a Dusseldorf style. Color is rich amber and carmel malty goodness comes to fore, even if not highly saturated. It is a good moderate flavor product with 4.7% ABV. It is stronger at first than the finish, that later being a tad rough and metallic at times though never horrible. It is very approachable, hops being light, and sweetness well controlled down the center. It is more of a mixture of flavors than a refined, integrated brew. I suspect the recipe is not the old one from 1703 for it needs some fine tuning. Reviews in the trade and media are everything from A to C- and one can find both alot of good and raggedness in this product. I tend to think the ragged bits should be point deductions and potential not considered one whit. There are too many firms in this business to reward effort alone. Bring your best and pay the fine. We're all adults here and $8.25 per six is real money. Nice product just not one of my top 300. It would be easy to "dose up" the brew but there is more needed than more ingredients.

Flying Dog Old Scratch
RATING: 3.0
Denver, Colorado
Broadway Brewing makes this bright amber ale with a lasting ivory head of minimal size. While their other ales had real substance proves much thinner though decently hopped. The finish is the flaw once again. 'For the itch that ales you' we'd try some of their others. They use 4 malts and 2 hops with a bottom-fermenting yeast that operates at ale temperatures. Even the label confesses 'medium bodied' and so too the word 'crisp' is usually a hint we have less substance. Reviewers noted 'fine ingredients but not enough of them or long enough brewing...weakish in short' and 'hoppy and refreshing but not rich like a good pale ale...I know 100 better ambers'. 

Foster's Special Bitter
RATING: 4.0 
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
No we didn't make a mistake. Foster's (at list in this trim) is from Toronto Canada too. They would be the kin from "Up Over" I suppose. Familiar Carlton & United of Melbourne licensed this SB (Special Bitter) to FBG Breweries. Color is medium to pale amber and the head is bubbly and quick. Carbonation is moderate. Flavor is a rather sweet balance of malt of hops in a tempered but apprecible dose. The hops finish has a pleasant and slight bitterness but this is far from the worldclass Fuller's ESB or other topnotch UK bitters. The sweetness and market timing would put it with Oktoberfest beers although at $7.00 some of the good German ones are priced less. For Foster's this is a real improvement. But there are just too many SWEET AMBERS in the world and many British-style bitters that it's just another good beer.

French Broad 13 Rebels ESB Ale
RATING: 4.0
Asheville, North Carolina
I've always loved the Highland Brewery beers from out west in my home state of North Carolina. French Broad is a newcomer (opening in 2000) in the increasingly crowded SE USA market. They tag this product first with their 2002 WBC Gold Medal, not a bad start 2 years running. The "copper colored British style pale ale" has "biscuity malt, dark fruit notes, a BIG hoppy finish. The website says 4.8% ABV but my bottle bought at Whole Foods Raleigh NC in October 2008 said 5.2%. They will be competing with Rogue in our market with 22 oz. brightly colored offerings. Color is amber, favoring golden hues, very long lace, nice ivory head. It is not copper under any light known in the form I purchased. It has bitter BIG hops but it's no hop tea like a Sierra Nevada feast. It is probably toned down a bit (not always a bad thing) to be more drinkable and marketable. It is not extreme but it's full enough and classy. It's polished but I find fruit notes a'wantin' folks. It is balanced if you want hops a tad on the bitter side, not overwhelming but real, polished but not overdone or artificially altered with anything. It's somewhat memorable but perhaps that's not memorable at all. I like it and good down gallons of it but anyone outside the southeast or North Carolina would have little reason to seek it out.

Fuller's 1845 Bottle Conditioned Ale
RATING: 4.5 
London, England
Actually the folks at Griffin have been brewing since 1654 but this partner- ship under the Fuller, Smith, and Turner name dates to 1845. This dark amber ale is covered in a lasting brownish head. It is intensely flavored in malt with enough hops to round things off. It was so strong in the malt vein that some casual drinkers did not find its taste pleasant. In other words, it might be an acquired taste unless potent malt is something you've learned to savor before. Some felt it crossed too far into the 'medicinal-herbal' side of flavoring (though it is NOT an Indian Pale Ale) while others relished such a distinct and strong beer. We did a few blends and some of us liked a 70-80% cut a bit more. It is as finely crafted as it is controversial.

Geary's Hampshire Special Ale (HSA)
RATING:  5.0
Portland, Maine
This product of the famous Geary Brewing Co. is a vibrant amber with a long head of old ivory color. Aroma is moderate to slight but the first taste accelerates one quickly to pinnacles of amber ale excellence. The sweet:bitter hops manifestations are balanced very perfectly and with enough malt to complicate rather than veil the hops. After two or bottles, the bitter hops settles down on the tastebuds and it grows to nearly IPA proportions until the palet is cleansed.  I like it very much but it is fairly hard to find on the east coast most of the time. There has never been a bad Geary's beer. 

Great Divide Arapahoe Amber Ale
RATING: 3.5
Denver, Colorado
Made from 2201 Arapahoe St. in Denver this is the 'flagship ale' of a company now receiving more widespread distribution. Firstly, high marks for the scenic caps and tastefully asymmetrical photo labels - COLLECTORS OF DO TAKE NOTE. Color is dark golden-pale amber with a big cream head. It won the 1996 Bronze Medal at the Great American Beer Festival in the Festival-Scottish Style Ale class. It could be a fest beer but Scottish is pushing it. It is by no means a very potent ale (it is barely amber for one thing) but does have a certain refreshing, dry ale quality. It is slightly malty with medium hops bitterness and no fruit notes per se; someone did say 'dry apple' however. With a price over $7.00 most of us would have expected more depth and character.

Gritstone Premium Ale
RATING: 5.0 
Niagara Falls, Ontario, Canada
Niagara Falls Brewing (Canadian side) produces this bright amber ale in 22 ounce bottles for $5.25 or so. The head is large and bubbly but can be short-lived. Carbonation endures. The flavor is a fine feast of rich hops quality with minor malty and semi-sweet herbal notes. There is some chocolate aroma as one gets from a much darker brown ale. Reviewers were much impress- ed and most of us agreed that 'this is the finest Canadian ale in ages... not since McAuslan Pale Ale has a Canadian brewery been so spectacular.'. Not one reviewer complained about the price - a price which is higher than some European imports of similar size. We are forced to place this on our 'must try - no exceptions' list. It is truly world-beating and a wonderful find.

Gritty McDuff's Best Bitter
RATING: 5.0 
Portland, Maine
This bright BITTER AMBER ALE is a microbrew with a lasting off-white head. The hops quality is remarkable and instantly you know you have a true winner. There is also enough malt to make a fine balance. We tested it with Old Thumper Extra Special (Bitter) Ale, another Portland microbrew, and this is the more dry and hoppy of the two. However both will thrill most ESB lovers to no end. Reviewers remarked 'wonderfully deep...clearly from a refined recipe' and 'it would easily please most diehard Real Ale enthusiast on either side of the Atlantic'. Highly recommended. 

Grolsch Autumn Amber 
RATING: 5.0
With all the new imports becoming available around the country one of the great brands has been forgotten. For some beer enthusiasts in the 80's Grolsch was the first really good beer they tried after getting bored with Heineken. This new product is orange amber ('color of Indian Summer' what- ever that means) with a respectable head. The flavor is quite pleasing al- though neither hops and malt flavors are clearly defined. It has semi-sweet virtues that make it drinkable near room temperature and the 'nose' is nicely developed. The word 'well-balanced' seems most appropriate. This top- fermented brew has no flowery hops character nor malty potency but it is simply competant and truly complete with a diversity of flavor elements. I have not seen this product in the US in years and do miss it some. 

Harpoon Alt
RATING: 2.5
Boston, Massachussetts
This AMBER ALE is dark reddish brown so we have no idea why the label says 'deep copper'. The head is ivory and lasting. The described 'strong hop bitter- ness' is barely evident and only at first. The finish is decidely watery though dry. It is official 'well attentuated' but we found the harpoon on the label was the only fitting that word. While it does have the general core of a bitter ale there are some very hideous bitters and odd thin places. A few reviewers that normally drink anything in a free beer found it hard to swallow. Given the nature of their other offerings it was almost unanimously a 'don't bother' beer. One reviewer like it a bit and said 'good color and head...subtle hops take a few bottles to figure out' while to another 'something went wrong that day'.

The first few sips are moderate with a healthy blend of hops and malt. Once your tastebuds get to that wondrous state of hops saturation, these tall bottles become even more appealing. This product is fully the equal of anything from the great ale masters at Rogue. Reviewers note 'spirited hops...delightfully deceptive.. very rewarding...I'll remember this one' and 'would prefer a notch or two more malt to round it out...but I was impressed overall.'

Jack Daniels American Ale
RATING: 4.5
Lynchburg, Tennessee
JD now offers 3 different beers and we almost unanimously agreed this was the most superior - and by some measure too. Color is bright red amber and the head is tall, beige, and finely foamed. Flavor is mid-strength malt and hops, some- what favoring the former, and finishing very sweet. It could pass for a decent Oktoberfest beer. However there is a bit of a carmel-candy flavor that gives the sweetness a superior quality. Some would prefer a more potent flavor but most of us thought it was strong enough for casual drinking. Reviewers noted a 'very big surprise...moderately sweet and malty...very appealing' and 'the only JD [of the three] I'd buy again'. The finish adds more bitter hops than the first bite. At $6.99 it is certainly superior to some $8-10 microbrews. In summer 2010, the JD labels are gone from our North Carolina shelves save for some mixed drink thingies. When in Tennessee I would and have sought out the bourbon-barrel-aged beers for most of them are rich, yummy, and affordable there.

>>>>
King and Ba
rnes Broadwood Ale e raa 3.5 994 Horsham, Sussex Subtitled the 'Best British Ale' this amber, aromatic ale has a long-lasting ivory head. It is named for the Broadwood families who are more famous for their pianos. Goldings hops are used in modest measure and the outcome is a semi-sweet finish a few of us though was less than semi at times. Like their Old Porter it had a few finishing flaws even though dated well within the normal span of things - in all cases. Reviewers noted 'if you like your hops sweet but not full of carmel...come here.' and 'sugar and flavor but without the complex malting I've come to identify with a British import'. It may be their best but it's surely not the country's best. 

Lagunitas Wilco Tango Foxtrot
RATING: 5.0
Petaluma, California
By now the name Lagunitas always gets my attention when the local shops get a new label. This esteemed brewery makes some great stuff and some that is simply mind-expanding. This brown ale is subtitled (and my God beer names are getting longer every week!): A Malty, Robust, Jobless Recovery Ale. WTF = What the F*ck or Where the Fu*k unless you happen to belong to the World Taekwondo Federation or in South Park...World Takedown Federation. Then there's some bit about if we're not in the black nor in the red, we must be in the brown (ale). At 7.83% you get your money's worth but if one is jobless you'd better be on your third Pabst Blue Ribbon instead of enjoying one of these with me - yet. It pours dark amber-brown, not porter-brown but rich brown ale in color.  They call it an Imperial Brown Ale but others place it with American Strong Ale. This is a Limited Release first for March 2010 when we neither jobs nor recovery but lots of brown oil on shores and lots of beer to drown out sorrows in. 

The malt is surprising matched with strong but mellow hops, both of the highest quality, and it being very finely judged in this respect. They were very even-handed with the hops bucket as with the barley barrel. More hops-hounds would probably like the brown ale better if more them were this hoppy and had an elevated ABV level too. The parity and interplay of hops and malt, each one layered and above ordinary, is remarkable. The hops are buttery yet bitter enough, almost a high-end, limited style Sierra Nevada sort of easiness - and for any brewery that should be considered a complimentary comparison. Cold or warmed at the table, this is one very impressive brown ale, better than most from any land. Here is a very worthy brown ale, different and sound in all those differences, and deserving a good search or long road trip.

Left Hand Chainsaw Double Sawtooth Ale
RATING: 4.0
Longmont, Colorado
Usually classified as an American Strong Ale, this 9% product has an immense creamy head and the color of chestnuts. Early version of the label showed a tree trunk being sawed in half but the latest 2010 version shows a wild, evil-eyed tree trunk in what can only be described as firstclass label art. It has slightly sweet hops and not nearly as much as I had expected given it's deep hue. It is akin to a moderate strength pale ale augmented with caramel and toffee notes. There is faint fruit (grapefruit and lemon) after two classes of saturation and more dryness than found in first sips. The hops is unabated throughout the process and those rich, piney notes never let up. It is nicely crafted and made of the right things and apparently long enough - yet I do not find an affinity to it. It is special just not very special.

Leinenkugel's Autumn Gold
RATING: 3.5
Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin
This fall 1995 introduction uses 7 varieties of hops and 2 versions of Yakima hops. But as noted before with their other labels is there ENOUGH OF THE VARIETY? Color is pale amber (not nearly gold) and the head medium long. Once again we find the beer some few increments too weak for the majority of ordinary beer lovers. There is a semi-sweet start with interesting hop character. Sadly it trails off into a very 'common finish that suggests more corn syrup than depth of ingredients'. Reviewers noted 'I think they tried but not long enough' and 'a fair value at $5.19 but not memorable'. We do want to give high marks for a very beautiful foiled label with lovely trees and a covered bridge.

Lost Coast Amber Ale
RATING: 5.0
This medium amber-colored ale has a nice lasting head and is very flavorful from the first second on the tonque. It is quite fruity and gives us everything that was missing from their Downtown Brown Ale. It is the best of their ale products in our opinion - excluding the Stout which is also perfect and made with ale yeast. It makes a fine comparison with Anderson Valley Boont Amber but it was hard for us to pick one over the other.

Maclay Eight Shilling Export Ale
RATING: 4.0
Alloa, Scotland
This amber ale has a rich creamy head and is what they term a 'Scots heavy'. All the tradition of copper kettles and a century old cellar are there. They call the taste 'mellow, malty'. It is certainly less hoppy than their Wallace IPA nor is this a Scotch Ale in the usual sense. The malt and hops are moderate (not full) and are counterpointed with such skill it was a favorite with many tasters. Yet it was not rich enough for some nor mellow enough for others - in this regard the rating suffered a bit. There are certainly many other real UK ales to buy and this is above many of the mass market ones. Yet it is not entirely memorable - just competant and compromising in a good sense. Some of you will give it a perfect score.

Magic Jinx
RATING: 5.0
South Burlington, Vermont
The grinning thing on the label of this 6.9% product appears at first to be some New Age flower but has a vaguely scrotal aspect below the central heart. Drinking the stuff will make all that stuff do everything but go away - ask a friend next time in the bar. If you look long enough it's really three flesh-colored hearts plus a face. Color is dark brownish amber, flavor favoring malt but with comfort of a little hops, curiously balanced and am not certain how! This stuff has COMFORT as it's major theme. It's very appealing, one of those recipes that is just right - or "spot on" as they say in London. There's a bit of smoke to the malt, an Ovaltine-molasses drink in moderation. There are in fact Scottish Ale Light aspects to it without that implying an deficiency or lack of necessary flavor. Sweetness to moderate-high but it's not syrupy. I'm almost convinced we have a FRUIT-NUT-MALT tempered with molasses notes here in the final analysis. I'd guess some fruit flavor was added and there is very likely some real or fake hazelnut infused as well. To say it's mysterious would be a vast understatement. After two bottles savored many ways with all those snobbish tasting tricks was barely enough. One reviewer I respect said he thought it was a Scottish Ale blended with brown sugar and some fruit flavorings - add hazelnut and we might have it all down. Maybe. Or not. Do give this enigma a date on your next beer tasting!

Their website is a slow and hideously useful as their beer is great - you get something approaching an adventure game but on wi-fi broadband there's no useful information until the programmers have done their cute, annoying things. After forty-four passes of the magic blimp I gave up on finding anything useful about this and any other label.

Magic Hat Roxy Rolles Hoppy Amber Ale
RATING: 5.0
South Burlington, Vermont
Before I move on, let's give this artful, inspired label some kind of beer label award. Wow. This stuff pours large and tall and with a head like magic expanding fire-fighting foam. The color is dark amber, brownish in the tones, and the gigantic head beige. There's a flavor cliff here. Hops fills the nose and then the first one or two taste notes, then you finish with brown malt added to velvet perfection. Magic Hat has been a revelation among even jaded foam sippers with decades under their bulging belts whose buckles can no longer be seen. If there's not a Magic Hat cult in all 50 states before long I'd be shocked. (Do these folks have a stock offering? The way my 401K is looking I'll set it door to door myself). This is one of their signature, truly magic products and I'd recommend it for everyone thinking they've tried every good variation on "tons of hops + tons of malt = crafty, cool beer". I could almost give up the IPA style if they all come with this much malt in the balance. This stuff is effective without being a spurred club to the tastebuds, a strapping entry in the "more is more" school of brewery, potent but never offensive, a sturdy item I will use to impress friends just off the 747 from the Europe.

McNally's Extra Ale
RATING: 5.0
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
I have not tried it since but found it my favorite Canadian amber ale in the 90's - that's perhaps like saying it's my favorite Czech Republic, all-girl heavy metal band. Big Rock of Calgary Alberta produces this 'Irish style golden ale' that is rich golden amber with a bubbly head. It has a pleasant bitterness at first taste but it finishes very smooth and fruity. It is quite aromatic and also has a long malt finish - thus not for use with subtle foods. It is one of finest Canadian beers we know and is vastly superior to familiar brands. At $8 for six 11.5 oz. bottles it is pricey. Distinct and very charming.

Mendocino Eye of the Hawk Select Ale raa 

Miami Hurricane Reef Amber Ale raa
Michelob Amber Bock u raa 3.0 614 St. Louis MO Packaged in black and gold (like the recent Jack Daniels beer) this label attempts to give Michelob a premium image. Even at $6.00 there is nothing more than beautiful packaging. The amber color is just fine but only the slightest hint of the roasted malt and the weakest nip of hops are apparent. One reviewer said 'just when a strong finish with hops bitterness or other complexity might have saved it, a weak unpalatable watery nature appears.' Then there were the bad puns like 'send it Bock' or 'this Bock was made PDQ'. Even for Michelob Dark drinkers it may disappoint and to ANYONE this price is a joke. When a label says 'Brewed with only the finest...' and then you see the word 'rice' - beware. Cheap grains don't belong in $6.00 sixpacks!!!

Miller Reserve Amber Ale u raa 4.0 223 This dark green-packaged product was a stunning surprise. It is by far the best Miller beer available. For just $3.99 or so per sixpack it is the finest American ale in that price range. Color is rich amber and the flavor has many of hoppy details that make Sierra Nevada Pale Ale a true treat. At the price it one of the best values in this database. As of October 1993 we find it scarce. We knew Miller could do it. This is a welcome sign for the future.

Murphy's Irish Amber i raa 4.5 975 Cork Self-described as 'deep golden' rather than amber, this beer quite firmly emphasizes a smooth malt flavor. What hops flavor exists is very mild and contributes only a slight amount of bitterness. It is semi-sweet and reminded some of us of the Aass label. It is certainly distinct among the more widely marketed beverages in the American market. There are those of course who prefer a balance between hops and malt - they'll not find it here. Yet this label will not overwhelm one as might a malty brown ale. It is perhaps an acquired taste but for a refreshing, change of pace there would be few better choices on the malty amber front. The label and cap are legitimate high design and among the most classy in the business. A distinct amber - yet not for everyone.

Neptune 66 Premium Ale u raa 5.0 810 Manhattan NY Maybe salsa from New York City (!) is a bad thing but ale is another story. This stuff is rich medium amber with a faint cloudy haze. Flavor is ale fruity with a rich but smooth hop dose that holds nothing back. With the vast array of amber ales in the American microbrew market we need to single out ones like this as truly superior and above the crowd. Reviewers noted 'sweetish, hop drenched, and simply delish...not a single fault to find' and 'yeasty fruit flavor (miss- ing in so many modern ales) and refined hops...satisfying but not overwhelming like some pale ales...good daily drinking ale'. We don't see this one as often as we'd like. If you can find some it is well worth an $8.00 price or more. This could win some medals given a fair shot.
New Amsterdam Amber u raa 5.0 241 This is one of several rich and alluring beers to be brewed from Utica NY. Using a lager yeast with crystal and roasted malt in small handmade batches they have fashioned one of America's best flavorful beers - as several competition wins will show. The color is medium amber and the head only slightly persistant. It compares favorably with Portland Lager which in our area is more available.
New Amsterdam New York Ale u raa 5.0 243 This amber-colored ale uses dry-hopping with the Cascade kind and aging to produce a truly flavorful product. While its shares some of the floweriness of Adams Boston Stock Ale it is a very different brew in color and flavor. It is an excellent compromise between a high-flavored amber and very smooth premium beer that is consumable in some quantity. It satisfies without over- loading the tastebuds. Even the package describes 'aromatic oils and resins'.
New England Atlantic Amber Ale u raa 3.0 717 Norwalk CT This Connecticut AMBER ALE is additive-free and is a freshness-dated. The color is bright copper with a smallish but lasting head. Flavor is mostly malty but on the moderate to thin side. There are enough hops to notice. The finish is semi- dry. At the $7.99 price most reviewers felt it was very lacking in complexity as well as intensity of flavors. There are just too many fine other ambers in that price range to recommend this one. Reviewers on our panel noted such things as 'more of a LIGHT MALT AMBER...nicely colored...need more zip' and 'Boulder Igloo Ale, Jack Daniels American Ale, and most Rogue ales are much superior in this price range'. 

New Holland Sundog Amber Ale
RATING: 3.5
Holland, Michigan
One of these days I'm doing to write a piece on the obsession of breweries with using dogs and wolves in their label names. Anyhow, this New Holland product is a glowing amber of high aesthetic quality if only on account of the color and the very large ivory head. One gets bitter, slightly citrus hops in the first approach with the bitterness increasing as more layers of the flavorful vine come into focus. There's enough malt for depth but here we must say the depth is not what is could or should be. It's neither a good pale ale nor a malty enough amber to get good marks. Sweetness is moderate but favoring the indulgent side. I suspect they went for a balance of bitterness and sweetness and somehow it doesn't work. I'll leave the problem to chemists who might pin it down for them if asked. It is what they call "approachable" these days, a lousy term borrowed from the wine crowd but in the beer world meaning "not too flavorful or complex to trouble your brain with analyzing such things". It is crisp when served cold and is a mile from (above) the tragic junk peddled as "American Amber Ale", a term so unpatriotic I think any brewmaster who uses it should be shackled and immediately flown to Gitmo. 

New Knoxville Mild Ale u raa 4.0 1302 Knoxville TN The name 'mild' here refers to the ENGLISH MILD style and certainly does not imply a weak body overall. Only the hopping is subtle. The malt is well balanced and dosed for both suitable color and quality. It proves to be one of New Knoxville's most impressive labels and shows their small batch, traditional craftsmanship to best effect.
North Coast Alt Nouveau u raa 5.0 247 MOST ARTISTIC BEER LABEL 1994 This product of Ft. Bragg (Mendocino County) CA is a play on words - Art Nouveau becomes Alt Nouveau as 'alt'in German means 'old' or mature. The label artwork is impressive and very collectible. The bright cheerful color is a golden amber with a lasting head and good carbonation. The depth and quality of hop flavor is simply breathtaking and remarkable. While very hop-filled it is sweet enough to be festive. Very worthwhile. Classy.

Norvig Ale e raa 3.0 449 Wisbech This 'Viking Ale' is actually by Elgood of Wisbech UK for Woodstock Inc of Vermont. The yeast comes from an old farm near Bergen Norway and not from a sunken ship like the Flag Porter. The Bergen yeast is combined with East Anglia malt, Kent hops, and water to produce a light to medium amber ale with a large head. It has no nose at all and one has to drink well into the second glass before any flavor registers in the brain. There are some very faint and somehow interesting yeasty flavors there but far too little of them to convert to any form of pleasure. Reviewer DM suggested that he would 'have a bad temper and want to conquer other lands if this was the only kind of beer at home'. If authenthic it is not worth reproducing.

Nor'Wester Best Bitter Ale
RATING: 4.5
Portland, Oregon
This Portland microbrew won the 1994 Gold Medal at the World Beer Championships in Chicago. It is bright pale amber with a lasting head of medium size. Hopping is medium-high and sufficient for all tastes here. As the package indicates there is also a 'spicy malt' flavor component as well. It is semi-sweet in earlier phases but finishes drier. Williamette Hops from local Salem OR are the main hop of choice. This spicier, maltier, and mellower sort of bitter may be better suited to American tastes where a true UK ESB or Bitter Ale would be uncomfortably sharp. Reviewers applauded the 'excellent sense of hops-malt balance...substantial depth and refinement' and 'malty amber ale bliss gives way quickly to a British-style bitter finish'. Very worthwhile.

Ocean Red Sunshine Amber Ale raa
Ohio Brewing Cardinal Ale u raa 5.0 990 Niles OH This rich amber ale is moderately hopped with a strong nod to the malt side of the equation. Color is rich amber with an enduring, mid-sized head. Ohio Brewing was only founded in 1997 so this is a remarkable product from such a new brewery.
Old Cape Cod Smuggler's Ale u raa 4.0 565 Wilkes-Barre PA While named Old Cape Cod they smuggle it in from The Lion Brewery of Wilkes- Barre PA. It is like an English amber ale but 'lighter in flavor' - a phrase which froze us cold. Then they wrote 'crisp and clean'. Not again! Actually this light-colored amber is NOT a light-flavored amber. There are enough ale fruitiness and hops finish to be interesting. Still it is far from the perfect amber ale that several American premium microbreweries produce. This SEMI-LIGHT AMBER ALE is a fair compromise at the $7.00 price for those who like flavor but not in big hoppy doses. You could drink 3 bottles (and we did) without having your tongue burned out on hops bitterness. It is also better than Miller Reserve Amber but inferior to most Rogue amber ales.
Old Dominion Patriot Amber Ale u raa 4.5 838 Ashburn VA We bought this simply on the basis of the packaging which said 'Seasonal Spec- ial' and only later found the name it bears above. After a few jokes about the home town of the brewery we settled down for tastings. Color is bright amber under a cream head of small size but good duration. It is rather sweet and dosed favorably with ample hops and decent malting. Hops prevail. It has a bit of that 'candy beer' quality (partly carmel malt) but so much as Big Rock brews. Reviewers were mostly impressed and one declared 'perhaps the finest Southeast microbrew AMBER ALE I know...thoroughly enjoyable'. While another reported 'a smooth way to get your hops...they don't have to be bitter to please'. If you tastes run to the SWEET HOPPY AMBER ALE variant this is a sure winner.
Old Glory Amber Ale raa 

Old North State Red Drum Amber Ale
RATING: 4.0 
Youngsville, North Carolina
This NC microbrew comes in a strong box for easy carrying. The rather minimalist black label has sparse red and blue letters; and the 'Red Drum' channel bass. The flavor is not fishy but has a nice bitter hops and malt balance. The orange red color is pleasing. The malt is moderate tending toward sweet carmel quality. It was too weak for some. The hops seems more clear with a bitter to flowery effect. Ratings ranged from 3.5 to 4.5 so it was perhaps a bit on the questionable side; owing that we rarely recommend anything under a 4.0. There are red amber ales both better and worse. For $5.99-6.99 it was quite satisfactory.


Otter Creek Copper Ale
RATING: 4.0
Middlebury VT
Brewed in the style of the Northern German altbiers this American version is golden amber with a strong head. It is actually not as coppery or orange as the name suggests. In a dark bar room it will be copper enough to spark a conversation. A "special yeast" (aren't they all?), six malts, and three kinds of hops are used in the kettle. The label says "medium bodied" and that appraisal is correct by our standards. This is one of those ambers which is nicely flavored with quality ingredients but will not smash your tastebuds like some ambers and pales out there. The sweet-dry balance slightly favors the sweet side. The hops are tangy with very strong malts coming out in the later notes and finish. If one was blindfolded you might almost class it with brown ales with its prevailing malt strength. There was a bit of raspy bitterness that might put off some drinkers. Reviewers told us that the label was 'fair complexity...quite thoroughly malted...a little too harsh' and 'lots of flavors but not a unified theme'.

We have to give a credit to their marketing folks who manage to fit (and that quite attractively) an 800 number, web URL, map, date, batch number, plug for their brewhouse giftshop, and friendly intro on every single bottle. It is also one of very few seven dollar, American microbrew amber ales with a twistoff crown. The whole package says friendly but we might be happier if they sent it down with a shot of maple syrup to clean up the finish.


Otter Creek Mud Bock Spring Ale u raa 4.5 758 Middlebury VT While the words OTTER and MUD don't usually make us salivate this spring amber bock is certain to please. It's 'aroma celebrates the arrival of Vermont's sloppy spring'; whatever that means. Elsewhere the label is right: light hops and deep malt. The depth and quality of both is perfect for the maltiholic. If you love malty beer this is a real find. Some of us thought the hops could have been turned up to aid complexity; sacrificing nothing in malt notes. The finish is semi-sweet and not unlike a few Oktoberfest from the home of that style. Reviewers noted it as 'One of the country's best MALT BOCKS' and 'sugar malt themes...limited hops...would be better if more dry'. Well made but the sweet malt extreme will not please everyone.

Paulaner Bavarian Alpine Extreme
RATING: 4.0
Munich, Germany
This ALE was 'created especially for wintertime' and features a traditional alpine attire WITH modern reflective rainbow sunglasses. Color is pale amber and the head is lasting. Flavor is centrally a malt theme but with a dry finish. It is not unlike many O-fest beers except for the lack of sweetness. Some of the so-called SEMI-DARK GERMAN BEERS are similar though this one is classed on the bottle as an ALE. It is dry and refreshing but not very complex nor unusual. It is just a very decent malt-loaded amber. Panalists here noted 'deep dry malt taste...finish not bitter like a UK malty amber' and 'Quality beer (especially for $2.59 per 17oz.)...not likely to be anyone's fav- orite...just quietly competant without any hops or novelty themes'.

Pete's Gold Coast Lager u raa 5.0 272 This superb light amber lager is smooth and abundantly flavorful. It satisfies like a rich and smooth sherry with endless flavor and style. It is quite distinct from the more widely sold Wicked Ale. In our opinion it is one of the Top 5 American Beers with national distribution. This elite American will please a native German just as California wines have amazed the French at their own game. Although not visually dark it will please dark beer lovers too. 

Pinehurst Village Double Eagle Brown Ale
RATING: 4.5 
Aberdeen, North Carolina
Aberdeen NC is between the golf meccas of Pinehurst and Southern Pines. As with the original Aberdeen of Scotland they try to make authentic powerful ales as rare and exciting as a 'double eagle'. The dark-toned, artistic 'torn look' labels also good attention from nearly all. Color is actually a deep amber, making it far lighter in shade than most BROWN ALES. The head is big, lasting, and ivory. Four different malts and 3 hops are used to make what is a well- hopped ale overflowing with delicious fruit flavors. They suggest apple, black currant, and pineapple. Pineapple and cherry turned up in our conversations before reading that suggestive label. Though mislabeled for both color and style it is quite pleasant. As a FRUITY AMBER ALE there are very few finer.

Portland Lager5.0 284 Like Dock Street Philadelphia this amber darkish lager is 'lively' and licensed for Utica NY production. However this lager compares more readily to Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and Pete's Gold Coast Lager - too other worldclass Americans. With Sierra it shares floating sediment that may worry the un- educated beer drinker. It is visually darker than Sierra but both are equally satisfying. As the label says: a great solution to the beer doldrums. 

Red Ass (Cold Spring) u raa 4.5 797 BEST 'RED SOMETHING BEER' 1996 Cold Spring MN We first saw this stuff at a college beer shop along with the claim about 'pure northern Minnesota spring water'. Then the simple label with Bucky the kicking red ass. We expected some watery pseudo-amber ale. Instead we got a richly hop- ped and malty beer with refined balance. It is more drinkable than an ultra potent PALE ALE but is fully as pleasing. Some of us rated it a perfect 5.0 if that tells you anything. And by the way, don't confuse your RED ASS with your RED TAIL. We summed it up: 'forget the RED ELEPHANT; the RED DOG is a mutt; RED WOLF is a howling bore; and RED SEAL isn't about the animal stupid'. We'd even go so far as to say this is one of best mass-market amber beers from the US. Even the biggest hop-a-holic will not turn this one down.


Red Rose Amber Ale
RATING: 5.0
Numazu, Japan
When I got home from the 500+ beer store I was angry and ready to fire off an email to lots of people and maybe my congressmen (plus good ole Sen. Libby Dole). I just paid $4.75 - what a fool - for a single bottle of beer for a Massachussets beer. Surely that meets some state or federal rip-off statute. The brewery was some Baird company and the label oozed California graphics indulgence in funky, sometimes bad-is-unique style. Wait a sec! A company called Baird Brewing was from Numazu Japan, near the foot of legendary Mt. Fuji? They claim to be "Japan's pioneering craft brewery" with unfiltered and bottle "re-fermented" brews. And they indulged in a vaguely modern art, neo-impressionist red rose on the label with oddly spaced, New Age fonts? Wow, super wow, and a then a rethink moment. Okay...hold those emails. This 5.4% ABV drink is said to be the product of "high fermentation (with ale yeast) at an usually low (lager-like) temperature". They lay claim to the following words: robust, rich, fruity, malty, crisp, refreshing, dry, layered, and fragrant. Add "just a bit prickly" to all that. 

I never got the prickly but that do pack lots of nifty, fine adjectives into this pour. There are globs of floating yeast at that point I figured I owned them another buck on this transaction given how crappy most of today's reviews with artificial additives and weak style imitations had proven to be. Here's a winner at last, I do hope and pray at the shrine. It is rich amber indeed with a head that might climb Mt. Fuji if a six pack was rapidly emptied beneath it. Here's the catch. It is one of the those subtle, smooth Japanese craft beers and not a hammer-your-tonque with hops 'til your numb ale. Nor is it a violent, onslaught of caramel malt. Here is tact and elegance in a pleasant form so much characteristic of it's homeland and ancient sensibilities there. I came away happy to have paid what I did, still thinking I owe them 2 bucks more and overall amazed they give that much flavor with such utter smoothness and finesse. If you love your ales favoring the artful, discrete, and sophisticated side this will amaze you. If you want a simple "more hops per barrel" approach without balance and gentle caressing do look elsewhere. Red Rose is delicate without being weak, refined without skimping, and utterly exquisite in the final analysis. Any North American microbrewery wanting to do a "more is less" ale without cheating the drinker-san of favored ingredients might give all their staff a round of Red Rose on a daily basis.

Red Tail Ale
RATING: 4.5
Mendocino, California
Using a blend of pale ale and caramel malted barley this amber ale tends to have a slightly dry taste. It has transitional fruity and herbal tastes what are pleasant. It has good aroma and pleasant complexity. It is from Mendocino Brewing Co. of Hopland CA. It has 5.5% alcohol and has been sold in CA since 1983. 

Rhino Chasers American Ale
RATING: 5.0
Chatsworth, California
298 BEST BEER WITH FUND-RAISING CAMPAIGN 1993 This 'small batch' from from William & Scott of Chatsworth CA has a unique niche. The 'majority' of profits are donated to the American Wildlife Found- ation. Assuming the AWF does not have directors with 6-digit salaries it sounds like a good cause. The flavor is full and rich with pleasant bitter notes and only a hint of fruit. It is pumpkin-colored and has a long-lasting head. The bottle is ugly in patriotic-art deco pattern and an Americanized rhino head. Silver Medal in 1993 GABF in Dusselfdorf Altbier group. 

Ringwood (formerly Kennebunkport) Old Thumper Extra Special Ale
RATING: 5.0
Portland ME/Kennebunkport ME 
Made by Kennebunkport Brewing Co. in our first taste, it now comes from Ringwood Brewery of Portland. it is almost too bad the name Bush Beer was not available, given the Bush-Kennebunkport connection of old. Judging from the label the 'Old Thumper' must be a really mean sort of warthog; ironic that a Kennebunkport brew would use a logo resembling an Arkansas razerback-from-hell; remember that whole Clinton-Bush War thing. Judging from the brew these folks know what they are doing and then some - their merchandise order line is 1-800-BREW-ALE. The pumpkin amber glow of the beer is glorious on any table but it won't last long. The head is ivory, firm, and lasting. Even with the 'Extra Special' name it's not highly bitter-dry. It is more of a BITTER AMBER ALE with a slight candy- carmel malt in the finish. Unquestionably first-rate and multi-dimensional.

Rogue's Ale
RATING: 4.0 
Newport, Oregon
Rogue of Newport Oregon is famous nationwide for a dozen or so specialty ales ranging from chili-spiced Mexicali to rich hoppy ambers to a smoke- flavored kind. This 'regular' Rogue Ale comes in six-packs rather than the large bottles. It is a bright pumpkin amber color with a mid-duration head. It always seems to have an even-handed dose of bitter hops and rich malt qualities and a dry finish. It's very potent and more bitter than their other full-hopped ales. Identifying their various ales is sometimes difficult since flavors are temperature dependent. While this beer holds nothing back on flavor strength those flavors are not orchestrated to perfection. One reviewer said it's 'like a gourmet tea brewed for 2 minute too long'. Worth a try.

Rogue's Ashland Amber Ale
RATING: 5.0
Newport, Oregon
Oregon Brewing Company produces a large number of amber-colored ales and this one is bright red-amber with a foamy head. Like their superb Mogul Ale this has a perfect hops delight. This one differs in bringing out the roasted malt flavors while keeping the finish smooth and clean. The St. Rogue Ale is also hoppy-malty in nice balance but carries a more spicy finish that they call 'sprucy'. This beer is highly balanced and like the Mogul Ale wins our top 5-bottle award.

Rogue's Maierbock Ale
RATING: 4.0 
Newport, Oregon
This ale from Oregon Brewing Company is a paler amber ('deep honey') than either the Ashland or St. Rogue's Red Ales. The flavor is also distinct as well. It is the most malty of all their ales with none of the rich hopping than the Mogul and Ashland convey. As American malty ales go this is one of the charming ones and if you are a maltophile this is sure hit. It is exceedingly sweet and calling it a 'malt soda' is both a criticism and honor. We thought it just a bit too heavily dosed although malt lovers may well give it 5 bottles or stars or barley malts or something. A little less of a punch would be ideal although blending it with their other ales can produce a desired effect with one's preference for malt and hop intensity.

Rogue's Mogul Ale
RATING: 5.0 
Newport, Oregon
This amber ale from Oregon Brewing is described as 'seasonal' (winter if if ski-carrying Rogue is any indication) and 'assertively hopped'. The head is large and enduring. Hop quality is strong and with the sweetish body it ends up being hops soda of the finest sense. It is highly drinkable and to some of our reviewers every bit as fine as Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. It is not like many winter or holiday ales which have clear malt flavors. It is merely a fully hopped dark amber that while rich does not oversatiate the palate. It has a spicy and lively quality that is hard to describe yet we know it is not found in other brews that merely overload on hops. This is a skillful use of hops and and not just a massive one. Truly excellent.

Rogue's Smoke Rauch Ale
RATING: 4.0 
Newport, Oregon
Be sober when you read this label. It is NOT Raunch NOR Ranch. It is Rauch. 'Dedicated to the Linguist in each of us' is sure to intrigue. It is very bright amber with a deep head and the aroma is clearly of burning buildings. They describe an 'alder aroma' (perhaps used in the process) but it is just plain old smoke to us. It has won 3 silvers and one gold at GABF but we like Golden Eagle in the SMOKE-BREW class. This is a notch or two more aromatic but does not go over the line into excess. Still it could not be used with any meals - and surely not one including light sauces or delicate spices. One reviewer called it 'liquid beef jerky'. Another 'a novel sipping beer.'

Rogue's Whale Ale
RATING: 5.0
Newport, Oregon
The splashing sea in turquoise and white on the bottle is the first thing to appeal. The black and white Orca (Killer) whale startles. While described as 'golden' the color is what we would call pale amber or golden amber. The head is enduring, foamy, and thick. The malty flavors are quite remarkable although not heavy nor harsh. You find a semi-sweet candy-like quality but not as richly as some of the Big Rock products. Rogues says the finish is 'herbal'. The flavor is quite uncommon among either GOLDEN ALES or MALTY AMBERS and while not unique it is unusual. Comments to us ranged from 'un- expected' and 'very different from their other range of ales'. It is very highly recommended if you wish to 'Save the Ales'. A much needed product. BrewBase in the old computer form rated it as the Best Spring Ale 1995.

Rogue's Wolf Eel Ale
RATING: 5.0
Newport, Oregon
This beer is dedicated to the Oregon Coast Aquarium and a mini-ad for it replaces the usual beer description. The huge and 'fierce' Wolfeel is actually a shy 6 foot fish and his toothy image makes for one of the most interesting and collectible bottles around. His beer is bright amber with a mid-length head. Flavor is malty sweet and very much like their Whale Ale. Except per- haps for color the Wolfeel and Whale ales are close cousins and one is hard- pressed to pick one over the other. And now for a political message: if you are going to make a beer that supports conservation work better make it a flavorful decent one like Wolf Eel Ale or Rhinochasers Amber. Rogue has succeeded with education, artful presentation, AND super delicious beer.

Rolling Rock Bock
RATING: 4.0
We didn't want to knock Rolling Rock Bock. We don't have to. This bright amber has a foamy head and enduring carbonation. Flavor is roasty malt with a neat dose of hops. It is immediately comparable to Miller's Amber Reserve and both give much hope for mainstream American brewing. The gold, russet, and white painted bottle is the VERY BEST looking painted bottle known to us. It received a bottle deduction for a brief second of weakness at the finish. Very welcome but rarely seen today (2010).

Rowdy's Perfect Ale (Water Street)
RATING: 4.0
Chicago, Illinois
We might need a neurosurgeon after this review. The caps say 'TWIST OFF' and about ten shredded digits later we discovered they are not. Yet the contents were worth the aggravation though not as close to perfect as their lager. The dark amber brew has an ivory head of long duration. Flavor is of moderate sweet fruit, generous hops, and a full malt foundation. While very pleasant it is not as impressive in totality or any component as it might be. While it excited some reviewers ('aptly named...a real revelation') others noted a 'heavier malt saturation than I prefer in ales' and 'shows whispers of excellence but in the final analysis a disappointment'. Some thought it tried to 'be too much' and felt a more unique character should be refined.

Samuel Adams Boston Stock Ale
RATING: 5.0
Boston, Massachussetts
312 This 'hearty' amber ale overflows with rich malt tastes and the strength of top quality Goldings, Saaz, and Fuggles hops. While it has more snap and zip than one expects, we have never found the bottled product to have a head of any duration or substance. It is nothing like American pale ales as with Sierra Nevada and Anchor Steam Liberty Ale. This proves much dryer and less deep than those classics. It lacks the 'floweriness' of their Boston Lager and that is by intention.

Samuel Smiths Pale Ale (Museum Ale)
RATING: 5.0
Like most Smith products the head is full and long-lasting. Color is bright amber. The balance between hop and fruit flavors is just right. It starts dry but finishes rather sweet. It is nothing like Sierra Nevada Pale Ale or Anchor Liberty Ale ales which are hoppy-herbal rather than fruity-sweet as with this Yorkshire masterpiece. It is less fruity than Red Seal Ale which we used as a FRUITY ALE for comparison. Clearly one of the finest bottled British ales.

Samuel Smiths Winter Welcome 1995-96
RATING: 4.5
Tadcaster, Yorkshire, England
This limited production out of Yorkshire has become a truly welcome winter find on beer shelves; especially as it disappears quickly. The 1995-1996 version shows white horses galloping through snow in the center. Some panal- ists remarked on the aroma. The color is vibrant amber with red hues. The head is large at first and carbonation is ideal. Some of us thought it was richer in flavor last year but not in three years has been a rich bitter ale. In short it is a British Octoberfestbier. Reviewers noted 'satisfying as al- ways...it is that complex and perfectly blended finishing flavor that is such a sweet parting kiss' and 'mild (and never bitter) style ale that is imposs- ible to resist'.In dissent: 'a little too 'skunky'...poorly hopped this year'. In general, this regular season rates about the same. It's always a lovely bottle and pleasant re-experience.

Saranac Adirondack Lager
RATING: 4.5
Utica, New York 
F.X. Matt of Utica NY also produces the notable New Amsterdam Lager and one fine version of Manhattan Gold. This lager is very light amber compared to New Amsterdam and has a thin head. Two-row malt blends with both Cascade and Hallertau hops for a superb marriage of American and German hop flavor. While complex and 'hoppy' the finish is clean. It is not 'flowery' like Sam Adams Boston Lager. A refined balance of Pils crispness with enough flavor to thrill. This is one of the best values in amber ale, available from countless grocery stores. The Saranac story is every bit as laudable and successful as anything with a Sierra or Adams name on it.

Shepherd Neame Bishop's Finger Kentish Ale
RATING: 4.0
Faversham, Kent, England
This long name goes with an even longer history. They've been making ales since 1698 when our country was a just a gleam in the Patriot's eyes. The color is stunning cherry amber with a huge head of large bubbles and furious lace. It is immediately aromatic but the flavor from cold to near room temp is rather mild. While mild it is not weak but has enough full Kent hops flavor to please the 'Real Ale' fan. As a bitter is does not offend like some British ales but given their diversity on these shores there are more fine selections - Fuller's ESB for one. This ale is well-made and is a real show off in glasses. Truly authentic. Nice Scotch-style bottle.

Shepherd Neame Master Brew Ale
RATING: 4.0
Faversham, Kent, England
While amber this Master Brew is shade less red than their Bishop's Finger Kentish Ale and the head is more foam-like. Using just Kentish hops and malted barley they have revived their traditional that is nearly 300 years old (1698). This brew is a 4 bottle on our scale if very cold but if even a little warm it is clearly a three. There is quality in the works but for 300 pennies and 300 years one expects rich complex flavor or at least a clear theme overflowing with Kent hops - this has neither. The finish is smooth and dry but unlike 'smooth' US brews you can actually tell that hops were required. Bishop's Finger is a bit better to us but Fuller's ESB and St. Andrews are much superior to both if you crave flavor and character.

Shepherd Neame Spitfire Premium Ale
RATNG: 5.0
Faversham, Kent, England
This glowing copper traditional ale is lasting head and wonderful appeal all round. Kentish hops impart flavoring. It won the 1994 International Brewing Award Gold Medal and it shows. Most reviewers who had tried their diverse line felt it was clearly their best work. Flavor is endlessly cascading with depth and more depth. Reviewers noted 'it is flavorful yet so soothing and easy to consume' and 'it is one of those beers where the words JUST RIGHT are so exaxt'. As amber UK ales go the finish has suitable and expected bitterness no found in some US or European ambers that are much sweeter. As a REAL BRITISH ALE there are few better choices - Fuller's ESB is another that comes to mind. Expect to pay about $3.25-$4.50 a pint but it's worth every cent. Very remarkable.

Shipyard Export Ale
RATING: 5.0 
Portland and Kennebunkport, Maine
First you'll notice the detailed and classy 4-masted ship on the label; its the style of a hand-colored engraved plate of old and collectible to be sure. The color is a bright golden apricot orange under a dense, lasting head of ivory. It is remarkably fruity and aromatic so its color and flavor are both of the apricot variety. It is simply delicious very cold and near room temper- ature. If they do indeed export this no one will even think bad of American beer again. Reviewers often remarked in the style of Kennebunkport's most famous resident things like 'it wouldn't be prudent as this juncture to miss this beer'. If your taste in rich, true ales runs to the naturally sweet and fruit- filled side this is one of the best from any country. Absolutely a 'must buy'.

Sierra Nevada 13th Release Harvest Wet Hop Ale (2009)
RATING: 5.0
Chico, California
Hot on the heals of the well-received 24 oz. bottles of Estate Ale, this product came next in the store section. Using very fresh (that is "wet") hops, this shining amber ale brings home (literally) the notes of pine, citrus, and exotic-spice that hops should in natural form present. The nose is of their classic IPA, the head rocky and long in old ivory. While their IPA in all strengths tend to lovingly hammer us with hops, this one caresses you into a soft, erotic slumber with delicious dreams and happy endings. Sip this for an hour and any Pabst-chugging idiot will know what real beer is all about and n'er go back.  

Sierra Nevada always makes fine products but of late the "more is always better" theme (from them and many other kettles) has gotten a tad old and predictable. (Aren't we about due for an Ultra-Mega, Super Nova, Knock-Your-Socks-And-Panties-Off IPA to the thirteenth power with enough ethanol to run a Hummer H2 stretch party limo for nine blocks?) Here is true quality with moderation thrown in for good measure. This approach costs us nothing for where the hops are not bold they are more overflowingly lovely and alluring. This might even be complex enough for a wine nut to come on over to sudsy side of elite beverages one night a week. In words that guys understand, you get lost in her sapphire eyes and instead of the long blonde hair - one is apt to miss alot by being too shallow and quick to judge by first, flashy  impressions. I feel like sending a case to A-B with the note: "fresh is meaningless unless you use enough of them little green thingys hanging from those vine thingys". I need fresh air, demand fresh water, and simply adore fresh hops in liquid form. Wet is wonderful. Wet is wise. Now go get some before it disappears for the year!

Sierra Nevada 2008 Southern Hemisphere Harvest Fresh Hop Ale
RATING: 5.0
Chico, California
These oversized 24 oz. bottles are 6.75% ABV and pours in rich amber with a very long lace (very Belgian-like) and a strong cream head. There's hardly a California beer without a cork or Belgianoid name that has such extended a vertical show. It's not so full or hoppy as their famous Pale Ale so I'm placing in this classification, even though it outranks many in this group. The gimmick/brilliance/hook of this label is that they needed fresh hops in California's spring time and that required going to another hemisphere. They harvested the stuff and within a week this fresh New Zealand product was ready for production with good American malts. The hops will not full are satisfying and suitably spicy. What their Pale Ale does for mega-dosing this one does for subtleness and finesse. One is a sledgehammer and the other a woman's slow caress. I admire this attempt and think it works very well. Two negatives are the long name (not a factor for me) and the price on the east coast. SN has always been creative, clever, fun, and innovative, even crazy and brave. This one was absolutely right except for our two negative notes. There's one more negative: it will not be available for the rest of our lives and is a limited seasonal.

Spanish Peaks Black Dog Ale
RATING: 4.0
New Ulm, Minnesota
Okay. Let's get the puns out of the way. It's not black and its not a dog. it's actually Irish Setter amber. The head is bubbly but non-persistant. carbonation is strong for an ale. It is made by August Schell of New Ulm MN. For the color it had a surprisingly thin flavor. There are no fruitful tastes but a slightly bitter hops punch in the finish. Compared to Adam's Boston Ale (similar hoppy finish) this needs some work. Artistic label is collectible.
St. Stan's Alt (Amber) u raa 3.5 599 Modesto CA California has yielded some superb amber beers in the last few years. This Modesto work is called Alt and they make both Amber and Dark versions under the Alt term. Color is light amber with a mid-length head and limited lace. The balance of hops and malt is about equal although one is not overloaded with either. This is one SEMI-LIGHT AMBER that needs to be served very cold. A favorable and subtle hops bitterness ranks this one over the myriad of 3 bottle ambers that now clog supermarket shelves. Still we suggest one look to Rogue for a range of very high quality ambers-a benchmark set that should be consulted by everyone from brewers to ad people to investors. Our sixpack sold for $8.99 and even near that price we'd want more marks of distinction.

Stoudt's Scarlet Lady Ale (ESB)
RATING: 4.5 

Adamstown,  The impressive 765ml bottle comes with an art deco-like label showing a flirting lass with enough symbology to fill a Master's thesis. She's drinking white foam from a horn, has poppies and hop vines in her hair, and her creamy cleavage has a banner saying 'Since 1987'. And we suppose a scarlet lady could in fact be extra specially bitter in real life. Of all the ESB (Extra Special Bitters) we know this is surely the most reddish-amber (copper). The color matches the hair of the label lady. The head is long-lasting. Stop laughing! It has hopped flavor but is far more sweet than so many others under the ESB name. One re- viewer said it was 'the most painless ESB known'. Others thought it was just a well-rounded hoppy amber; competant, misnamed. Seductive and full she is.

Tap Room No. 21 Moe's Backroom Amber Ale
RATING: 4.5
Lacrosse, WI
In August 2008 this came to our market and is said to commemorate the 1933 repeal of prohibition. The nice amber colored fluid is 5.7% ABV and the flavor is a good hops:malt balance, favoring the later slightly. It is on the sugary-honey side but not excessively so.

Uinta XV Fifteenth Anniversary Barley Wine
RATING: 4.5
Salt Lake City, Utah
I did not know 10.4% ABV could come from the state of UT but it surely does. This dark amber-brown ale has a small but long antique ivory head. The initial ethanol punch is moderate but it does creep up later to add bitter-potent notes of a less than ideal nature. Full half bottle deducted on that account. Malt is everywhere and nowhere, hopping stealing the show for a scene or two each sip. It reminds me of our late night concoctions working third shift at the [federal agency acronym] where the HVAC and security dudes made crazy things from the ample supplies of free lab-grade, 99.9% pure ethanol. We'd put two soda flavors together with anything we could steal from the cafeteria with things from our lunches and make odd punches. You've not lived until you've tried root beer-Mellow Yellow-strawberry ice cream-Honey Bun blend made into a 80 proof broth! The soaked bits of Honey Bun were enough to make the final three hours flow like the Nile. This reminds me of such an ethanol-drenched, pot pourri punch though at a much higher level of concept and execution. It's raw, it's occasionally crude, it's imaginative, and in the final analysis...way fun.

Wainwright's Evil Eye Honey Brown u raa 767 Pittsburgh PA The big scary letters 'Evil Eye' actually adorn two different brews: Amber Lager and Honey Brown. Unless you look close you might miss one. J.J. Wainwright's competitors accused him of giving the original brew the 'evil eye' but who knows what to believe on beer lalels these days. Despite the name this stuff is more honey colored than brown colored. The head is large-bubbled, small, but it can last in clean glassware. First impressions is of a cherry tartness with ale yeastiness and a moderate nip of hops; much more fruit than malt. Overall it is very sweet; a flaw for some reviewers but surely ideal for the mass market. Reviewers noted 'delicious and fruity but somewhat one dimensional' and 'very fruit-filled (citrus to apple), sweet but finishing less so, not very complex'.


Watney's Red Barrel
RATING: 5.0
London, England
From the Stag Brewery of London this fine deeply colored brew has pleasant non-bitter stoutness of considerable merit. It is a fine compromise between the often overpowering 'extra stouts' and your basic British beer. The wonderful amber color looks splendid in leaded crystal at your best meal. Although semi-stout it is never heavy. It is substantial yet smooth. This is not widely seen but is well worth sharing with your friends. 

Well's Bombardier English Premium Ale
RATING: 4.5
Bedford, UK
Well's and Young Brewing make this 5.2% amber ale with Fuggles hops and crystal malts. It presents itself in bright amber tones, beige head that lasts, and very faint nose. Flavors are mid-low strength, best very cold but acceptable warmed a tad. The finish is tart at times, more hops than malt in the late notes, overall a very serviceable, pleasant ale - traditional for sure but not strong. It's real ale, very, very fine ale just not perfect ale.

Wellington Original County Ale
RATING: 3.5
Guelph, Ontario, Canada
Color is medium amber with an tall, enduring head of cream. Three barley malts and five hop varieties are used to produce a rather moderate flavored ale. It is more malt than hops and was a good deal to weak for many of our reviewers; surprising when you consider how perfect their Iron Duke Porter was. It has a rather European malt subtleness that some beer drinkers (somewhere we suppose) might prefer. It is not thin in the mass-market pseudo-dark beer sense. It what you would describe as quality without much intensity as opposed to an absence of both. One panalist noted 'occasionally raw bitter though generally a low-medium potency affair...not impressed'. Another reported 'not much here to praise...I think they tried but should try harder next time'.
 
Wild Boar Special Amber
RATING: 5.0 
Atlanta, Georgia
This American red amber beer from Atlanta won the 1990 Gold Medal at the Great American Beer Festival. Flavor if full with crystal and pale malts blending with some fruit and many hop elements. It is now widely sold in mass markets and a 22 oz. version has been added. They have much more competition now in the amber market and frankly our 'consultants' could not agree as to its merits above or below many other fine stateside ambers. 

Wild Goose Snow Goose Winter Ale
RATING: 4.5
Frederick, Maryland
This English style amber is gleaming in all glass, on the red side of amber if you will. The head is old ivory and short-lived for us. The label proclaims a "vibrant hop finish" and they are quite right there. It goes down easy like a good Brit-amber but there are the bitter, angry gods of the ancient vine to pay for your massive gulping. And the brief distress is all worth it! Even the label of this product is snow-dusted and when served very chilly there's a frosty punch to be accepted when sipping it long and full. It's very well made and you could serve to any European guest without losing your smile or temper at any point in the conversation. The wee bit extra 6.3% ABV is appreciated and serves the whole package well. I'm delighted and impressed with this fine offering and wish it would crowd out a third of my local market's hop-free crap each winter - if not longer.

Wychwood Hobgoblin
RATING: 4.0
Witney, Oxfordshire
In time for Halloween 1996 came this UK ale with the meaningest (yet a bit cute) creature from the underworld on the label. Fall of 2007 and 2008 I think just the same as before. The label is more foily and slick than you'd expect from an Old World ale. Color is rich amber red with a deep, lasting head of ivory tint. Progress and Kent Goldings hops plus a 'pinch of' chocolate malt. That pinch is quite real and makes a moderately strong fruity ale with mid hops balance. It's not a HOP-GOBLIN as a clever brewer/marketing guru might have suggested. It is complex and satisfying at first taste but the finish was too thin and unrefined for some of us. It is not just a marketing gimmick as one might suspect - but it is not a top notch Brit ale either. If you like a decent SUBTLE UK ALE (real but not crudely potent) on the tart, moderate flavored side this hit on all the good points. The label is sure a fun piece of style - lots of tempting art and shimmer. It's competent, nothing in the extreme to be sure, never striking nor outlying, almost a mass market amalgum that fails to stand out except for the packaging.

Young's Special London Ale (SLA or S.L.A.)
RATING: 5.0
Wandsworth, London, England
This London export from Young's Ram brewery is bottle conditioned and the effort is more than worthwhile. It is very pungent and rich in its cloudy amber color. It simply glows bright orange and is very presentable. The head is especially large and full for the style. SLA is highly sophisticated, fruitful, and continuously flavorful. Neither malt nor hops thump you at first sip. Here is a very excellent example of what authentic, sophisticated brewing can produce. It is easily one of the UK's finest export ales but is sometimes harder to find than others. Reviewers note 'sweetish, very fruity with supporting but faintish hops...refined and then some' and 'real, well carbonated and ever so smooth...why aren't American brewers doing this kind of bottle conditioned perfection?'. Another said 'hints of peach...here is one ale that compliments rather than fights a meal. This one was a real revelation in my beer tasting life'. Contrary opinions a lack of strong hops or malt character as a deficiency. One knowledgeable reviewer thought the bottle conditioning really made it 'a thinly disguised British lambic'. But as our Brit cousins would say "it is spot on". Such is to be expected from the country's oldest brewery - established in 1831. It has won the British Bottlers Institute Award for Excellence in 1982, 1990, and 1993. The word "special" is so abused today. This is one label that earns it to the very last drop.

ALE - BARLEYWINE AND WHEATWINE

Bell's Third Coast® Old Ale
RATING: 5.0
Comstock, Michigan
The label is curious and as a wanna-be artist I kinda like their approach and execution. I'm damn sick of wild dogs, crazy old dudes, and anything that flies. The pure art scene in pretty charcoal and white shows a detailed winter day, doubtless from the Michigan, bordered in pink and lettered in violet-red. I rather like them recommending to "fill a sniffer" with it for beer as better than pedestrian brandy in many, many notable examples. The color is dark amber, head strong and biege, the lace weak. It sips very strong and like a energetic fruity ales. I rather enjoy some modern barleywines on the pomological side of things. I checked their website and yes they used the "barley wine" phrase; got something right for once. For us coastal-ready residents, the term "third coast" is used by them thar Great Lakes folks to imagine their big bodies are water are mini-oceans or something like that. The term is also used for land-locked Nashville TN in the entertainment business since they are neither LA or NY. There was also a time when Gulf Coast regions used this term as well so it's a registered trademark and yet historically muddled.

This vibrant, very capable brew is 10.2% ABV and like most old or barleywine ales it can be matured for extra goodness. If I had to pick a barleywine style I'd pick this approach which emphasizes insightful fruit esters above near-fatal malt and hops overdoses. This is real ale, true ale, strong ale, and I love it. There is controlled power here, skill and refinement in every sip from very cold to near room temp, a genuine accomplishment in the old molten arts. It is sweet even to the finish and I'd dry it out one notch perhaps if given a choice. And as they recommend on the label: put some bottles away to cellar and thus refine our patience and character. I have neither the patience or character to store this nectar for more than 32 minutes and as usual I depend on friends to do so.

BrewDog Mikkeller Devine Rebel
RATING: 5.0
Fraserburgh, Scotland
With the names BrewDog and Devine Rebel, an old town in Scotland is the last place you'd expect this exciting barrel-aged beer to come from. It has that Seattle grunge or California crazy look and sound about the bottle and the names. The 12.1% ABV is enough to get me to spend $11.99 for the 11.2 ouncers (June 2010) although the BrewDog name already is a "absolute must try" for me. THAT'S OVER 1 GREENBACK PER OUNCE FOLKS! The D-Rebel is actually a collaberative effort between BrewDog and Kikkeller, two creative names with various degrees of recognition in the US. Ale and champagne yeasts are used with a single hop variety, followed by both aluminum and Speyside Whiskey barrel-fermentation that is evident and as good as it gets. It was pioneered in 2009 and I tried this version sold in 2010 - which I'm told is slightly different from the 13.8% ABV 2010 variant. My bottle was teal and white for the record. I would not call it Necter of the Gods so much as the top 2% of all the ambrosial fluids on earth made by God's smarter, really handsome, and brighter older brother. If you can find a better barleywine (and I realize not everyone likes stuff this bold, sticky, and intense), then I hope you are entitled to your own opinion, and I don't care what you think anymore! Here is toffee overload, topnotch whisky oak, fruit esther nirvana, and sweet malt paradise with naked servant girls serving up everything from wafting vanilla, carmel candies, berries and cherries from their swollen lips, the smoke of passions past, and dripping raspberry vokda down their bosoms above our mouths. I'll pay $3 an ounce next year as long as gifted servants come bearing similar gifts.



Brooklyn Monster Ale (Barleywine) 2007
RATING: 5.0
Utica, New York
I suppose the taxes and labor rate is lower in Utica than old Brooklyn. Too bad for the old traditional urban breweries but Utica has many good labels in this book so let's move on. The ABV is 10.2% and so the barleywine style claim may be subtantiated. They print the particulars in tiny print in little black letters on chrome foil - impossible to read you idiots for anyone from 20-20 to coke-bottle glasses! This gem pours into rich amber hues, medium-dark side, and a cream-beige head of some duration. It is rather sweet and nicely malted, the alcohol only apparent in the pleasantly stinging, dry finish. You have a sugar-ethanol dry counterbalance going on here as one does with many Belgian ales and barleywines; a symphonic discourse I usually find to be soothing and as stirring as Mozart. You get the impression this might have been a bottle of concentrate for making about 120 kegs of Michelob's lasted pseudo-micro amber.

This is a strapping brew, double turbos under the hood, the real stuff, the strong stuff, and pardon me for saying the manly stuff too. (And guys usually like girls who like and can handle powerful stuff in the categories of adult beverages, power tools, and trucks if that manners at all. If it doesn't matter to you...drink on and enough your new chest hairs). This is a very persuasive example of why more is often more in the brewing world. That is a true statement if a brewer knows how to keep all the big chemistry within bounds, pleasant on the tongue, and intimately understands what separates crude-potent beer from the sublime-robust nectars of our memories. The men and women at The Brooklyn Brewery have this and much more down and on a truck headed our way.

Dog Fish Head Olde School Barleywine Style Ale
RATING: 5.0
Milton, Delaware
I believe that this bottle-conditioned 15% ABV is the strongest ethanol monster in this entire publication/website. There are a couple 14-something ales in this file but none a full 3x the usual supermarket potency. The price per 4-pack was $8.99 at Total Wine (February 2010) and that's more than reasonable, almost a true value really when you consider it does the glorious, numbing damage of 12 regular beers. NOW THIS EQUATION IS MY IDEA OF LESS FILLING BEER! Forget the watery lights of the mass market and go with loads of the master molecule because it comes with endless flavor. My first bottle was on a relatively empty stomach...wow...watch out if you down these in public or in front of important company like your future inlaws or potential employer or pre-adoption counselor. In college we used to trim up beer with cheap jugs of vodka and sometimes that would knock a buddy on the floor if he was not expecting a Pabst to be so potent. Heads would spin with or without the added influence of palmate foliage products. Later as an adult I learned to use lemon/citrus vodka to turbocharge an already strong wheat or Belgian ale where the hard liquor is easily hidden.

This thermonuclear barleywine pours bright golden-amber with a substantial head. Some barleywine-like products come off a tasting like "beer concentrate" which like orange juice and soda syrup merely need water to become marketable. This product remains sufficiently diluted and drinkable to be an impressive dose of sugar, malts, and hops though invariably this style dictates that sweet malt wins out - otherwise they would Imperial IPAs if they were double to triple strength teas made mostly of strong hops. I was curious about beer flavors one day and as I'm in the habit of making lattes with molasses, thought I would do some Ovaltine (full of malt) with the same bootstrap brand I use most. There was something very much akin to barleywine flavors in this blend of syrup-drenched malt thought based on milk and not the water base of beer. There is a very clear nip of both alcohol and hops here, though one is not always sure which is doing what to you and when. While barleywines can easily become too much, creatures of excess for marketing and other reasons, Olde School provides a savory broth without being heavy or cloying. This is very much at the pinnacle of brewing art and yet priced not to offend, a fancy yet very approachable ale of the highest rank. Dogfish Head make another deep, wide mark in the headboard of legendary North American brewers.

The Duck-Rabbit Barleywine
RATING: 4.5
Farmville, North Carolina
The Duck-Rabbit Craft Brewery started in 2004 in Farmville, NC (a pretty town of 4500 folks) and do not provide a full line as most southeastern micros. Dark and potent beers are their thing and it shows. The name of brewery comes from Gestalt psychology where the viewer is asked to view a thing and decide if it's a duck or a rabbit when it could be both or neither. Brewer Paul Phillipon decided to work on the void of good dark beers in the southern market. It pours a darkish but bold mahogany-amber with a full cream head. The nose is luscious carmel-IPA. I was ready to write something dumb because I figured my tiny $2.99 from Whole Foods of Cary was weak in the department where barleywines always do well - ethanol. Then I read 11% on the label. Well hidden guys. First merit point.

Their formula has changed a bit, sugar coming down since early years, and hops increasing I think. It's much like an IPA warmed by caramel malts and while I love a no-excuse IPA, this balance pleases me greatly. There is more fruit the longer you sip, notes of cherry terminating into hops bitterness for a very dry ending. The hopping is IPA strong as I said and on the floral side - so if you love those Sam Adams floral notes this will blow your doors off. Perhaps I should say this barleywine killed me softly for Farmville is often known for Grammy-award winning, amazing singer Roberta Flack who taught music there. Feel like making love...the first time ever I saw your foam...


Flying Dog Horn Dog Barley Wine
RATING: 5.0
Frederick, Maryland
Dateline 2027. Young Darius Jones is finishing up his Ph.D. project at the Compton Institute of Technology. Working late in the C.C. Broadus Jr. Genomics Lab, he lets out a shreak, pumps his fist, and notes the perfect merger of the RainPit and Rhino7 gene clips in the new embryo after 3 years of work. He has successfully combined the Rainbow Bull Terrier, a friendly but muscular pooch with multicolored hair patches with a gene group known to put a 7-10 inch cellulose horn on the head of any mutt. Such is the raging, rainbow, horn dog portrayed with artistic lines and subtle colors on the label of FD Horn Dog Barley Wine.

I did not always have a barley wine category in this book because that name is used today for many things including oak-barrel-aged products, golden ales, dark brown ales, dark lagery things, and other warm malty excesses. It's a fun name but ceases to be a coherant, clearly defined style today. This splendid fluid pours a glowing reddish-amber, head beige-cream but mid-length, not much lace. The aroma however is carmel enchantment cubed. I had hoped so. First notes are tartish, faintly hopped but they quickly progress to a substantial tastebud bath of liquified beer-candy; an entertaining and toothsome nectar in fact. The luscious, malt is generous in a collapse of a Hoover dam holding back 12 cubic miles of toffee syrup way. There is a great difference between cheap soda-beer and a superficially similarly sugar-malt barley wine of this caliber. The malts here are clean and sharp, richly layered, sugar fused to flavor (not following it crudely), and augmented with authentic notes of licorice, banana, and mild hop-derived spice. The cheap stuff has none of those fine touches is a simple hops syrup in a bottle. Try this against (sip vs. sip) any of those beer sodas, side by side and you get a brew education better than most. High marks go to FD for offering this in their 4-pack called Canis Major, an affordable sampler of potent, very well-brewed products that set a very high bar. I can't wait for their future Nympho Newfie Nectar.

Lagunitas Undercover Investigaton Shut-down Ale
RATING: 5.0
Petaluma, California
This "Especially bitter ale" (not an ESB in truth) is brewed in celebration of the "2005 St. Patrick's Day Massacre...and the subsequent 20-day suspension in January of 2006". Say what? This label has led to some speculation but the true story seems to be that the police had the brewery monitored for a time in 2005 after maybe one person was seen opening enjoying a cousin of the hopvine in smokable form at a beer tasting. Reportedly, law enforcement tried to buy the stuff and failed, though offered to get some for free. They shut down Lagunitas for 20 days after a raid on St. Patty's day that netted a couple of arrests.

Now the Beer Advocate classes it as a American Double/Imperial IPA but the hops are nowhere near so strong even though the 9.25-9.7% ABV (labels show both) is charming and in similarly deep waters. Their website calls it "our oxymoronic 'Imperial Mild'...unforgiven and unrependant". It is nearly barleywine though very mellow in all respects and it would be fitting for it to be cool and mellow, given the history involved. It comes down to us as a rich, darkish golden-amber with many red hues, a mid-length cream head. It is riduculously smooth for such a high ethanol level and so it sneaks up on you like a good hit of top shelf...well...you know. It is more sweet pale ale to me but things are usually called barleywines when flavors are intensified with this level of ABV. I got a nice sixpack for $8.99 in June 2010 and that is a STEALLLLLL for something of this gravity and quality. The stratified, multi-natured, and luxuriant flavors are mind-blowing (even without that other green herb) and one is better for having experienced it. I'm NOT a big fan of ribbing our honorable, badged men and women in blue, but I guess the folks at Lagunitas felt it was their right to claim innocence and get themselves vindicated nationwide in a clever, liquid way. Perhaps the whole lot can sit down (off duty of course) and have a couple; getting sober rides home of course. Perhaps it would be better if CA could get their budgetary act together and settle the whole herb issue once and for all to most people's satisfaction. In any case, this brew is delicious, delectable, deep, and a crowning accomplishment for a very skilled team of apparently abused and confused folks. Here is the wine of beers and now that the smoke has cleared, a juicy feast true and triumphant.

Dear Blue Cross and Blue Shield Insurance: I feel I am deserving of medical barleywine - not a whole treatment but at least a case a month delivered from a reputable vendor directly to my home - I 'll take it from there with the help of a nice, friendly, smokin' hot nurse I know. In return, I will never visit your pricey shrinks for any kind of mental health issue or need to order Cialis - as barleywine always lifts my spirits and most everything else of importance. Signed, Larry B. Hatch

Left Hand Widdershins Barleywine-style Ale 2009
RATING: 4.5
Longmont, Colorado
This curious brew is 75% ale together with 25% ale aged in oak brandy casks. It still goes for $10 a 750ml bottle but would be much more if 100% oak aged. Belgian candy sugar is employed in the process. It pours cloudy amber with some smears of cream yeast in the bottom of some bottles. The head is large, foamy, lasting, tinted antique ivory. Its comes after the tastebuds aggressively at first, nippy, tart, strong, and bold in early notes. Then some more candy sugar comes on, leaving malty-molasses at mid notes, and a finish mixing tart and sweet. Hops of some strength is theme throughout though various interludes occur to present minor performances. It is not as smooth as many barleywines available and will surely benefit from aging. One experienced friend called it "Barely Wine', an easy joke perhaps but with a element of truth. 10% ABV is not weak addition either. I found it alluring and once again found myself murmuring about how much of my month this Left Hand firm is getting.

New Holland Pilgrim's Dole Wheatwine
RATING: 4.5
New Holland, Michigan
One is first attracted by the pumpkin orange graphics painted/tampoed onto the dark brown bottle. Nice artwork all around. From their High Gravity Series, the name is based on a 14th century custom of rationing bread and ale to "nourish wayfarers on their holy pilgrimage". This is supposed to be our road to enlightenment made with 50% wheat instead of the usual barley but still in the barleywine ale style. It pours a luminous pumpkin-copper, some lace though long, a hugh golden-beige of largish bubbles. Nose is sweet malt, favoring caramel overload. It sips like a rich barleywine, 10% ABV, oddly different in the grain notes and of course they told us why! The big 22 oz. bottles are more than enough to get a full assessment of the qualities - and they are many. Early notes are very sweet but the ethanol dries out the finish some. You get lots of buttery malt, occasionall pops of tart hops, lots of syrupy excess, and various spices rounding out the finish. This will be too much for some and in fact I blended part of one glass to a regular Hefe-weizen and enjoyed the 25% "weaker" version much more. It's a tad too much of a Candy Wheat Ale for my taste but nicely done overall. As one gets to the last pour, the high ethanol gets a bit weary and in the way. A small glass or brandy snifter would be enough for most sessions. A whole bottle is an overload. Given the character of it with the wheat switch and all it's a nice choice for your next beer tasting challenge.

Smuttynose Wheat Wine Ale
RATING: 5.0
New Hampshire
Here is a remarkable, truly laudable cross between the traditional barleywine and a solid American Wheat Ale. A Gold Medal Winner in the 2005 GABF, this label has become something of a beer afficienado's fav labels. ABV has varied over the years but is usually in the 10-11.5% range. They include in their "Big Beer" series and all of them are super-potent in terms of both ingredients and our favorite intoxicating molecule. It pours golden-amber, favoring a bright but lightish copper. The flavors are intense including caramel, sherry or whiskey perhaps, vanilla, sweet spice, wheat, and faint fruit. I think I smelled pears somewhere. Some people notice cherries. Hops are quite faint and despite the name it is no dark wheat. Finish is high ABV bitter but some carmel creeps in. Sweetness varies a bit but overall it's more sweet in aroma than taste. It's one of those labels ideal for a beer tasting group as opinions and flavor notes will be all over the map with arguments endless. All of you will be right.

Stone Old Guardian Barley Wine Style Ale
RATING: 4.5
Escondido, California
Here's a very potent, 11.1% ABV ale with a small gold-lettered novel printed on the back of the bottle. Those of you with 20-20 vision will still need an 8 inch wide lens to read it. Color is rich amber, medium to darkish, old ivory head of some duration, and a very hoppy nose. It is nearly an Imperial Pale Ale with high ethanol but one can see resinous and medicial elements of the Indian Pale Ale; that other IPA thing. It's therefore super-nippy from the two traditional bitter elements. It was a little extreme for me and I do love a hoppy, high ABV beverage. A little measure of moderating sugar or malt would not have hurt and gotten me over my minor doubts.

ALE - BARREL AGED AND OAK-MELLOWED

I exclude the barrel-aged Belgian beers (usually brown subcategory) and they are covered under the Ale - Belgian section. Age stouts and porters remain under those sections. Also, barleywines can be barrel-aged and some are included there but I will duplicate others here as well if there is merit in two classifications.

Allagash Curieux Ale
RATING: 5.0
Portland, Maine
For me any of the corked, 750ml Allagash issues are immediate purchases, even if the plastic must come out to acquire them. 760 casks of bourbon heritage were made of this potent 11% brew, first bottles in February 2010 and come to my specialty beer store in North Carolina in April 2010. It pours as pale as a Belgian white but has surprising limnited last and a docile head. The more yeasty pours - and the bottle shows evident cloudiness (I almost put down "clear cloudiness") - are fruity and complex, delicious beyond compare and nearly as good a treat as Orval. Even the early, less yeasty pours are luminous in all possible ways, formidable among scores of sound American 750's, and so wondrous I almost have to stop and give it physical salute. Maybe I should write them. The probably with this statement of equality is that our American worldclass ales are one-offs and limited production. The European craft it all under their one name and keep it all steady, perfect and famous for centuries. It's almost like we're ashamed to be world-beating, idiocyncratic, and crazy awesome all the time! Here is a grand, mind-blowing ale that needs to let it's light shine on a world stage - and get laid down 10,000 casks at a time.

Alltech Lexington Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale
RATING: 4.5
Lexington, Kentucky
The red light on the self-scan cash register flashed. A bold but stern electronic-female voice boomed that I should remove the object from my bag immediately and contact a cashier. The long-haired, somewhat rotund and rumpled lady cashier holding a portable computer and obviously baffled by all the technology came over and in a thick Shepherdsville KY accent informed me I had violated the local Sunday laws about buying beer. "I'm from out of state..I didn't know" I said in a mousy, apologetic voice, trying to avoid her continued glare as if was trying to fool her. But it was five PM in the afternoon! Even in our strict North Carolina valleys we can buy beer after 2 PM or church, whichever ends last. This damn grocery store was a piece up the road from Jim Beam and half the great bourbon factories in the world for God's sake! The hotel manager said I could buy some up in Louisville or another county just 20 minutes away. Not withstanding my first attempt to buy a four-pack of this brew, this is a very fine smooth product, more sweet than it needs to be but absolutely "elegantly smooth" as they planned and declare. The supply of barrels is close and likely affordable, so perhaps all that glorious, seasoned, blessed oak will do us US beer lovers more good in the future; instead of going over to Europe to make their malty stuff. It won a Silver Medal at the ABF.

Brew Dog Paradox Isle of Arran Stout
RATING: 5.0
Fraserburgh, Scotland
The idea of a stout aged in whiskey barrels is enough to...well...make me pay $7 for a small bottle of beer. The aroma is hard to pin down and so one must sip. The best way to think of this fine 10% brew is that of classic super-malty stout spiced with a bit of cinnamon, vanilla, and that whiskey-barrel nip which is probably 289 different nameable chemicals - were I to have a mass spec machine on this desk. Oak aging can be overdone and underdone but here it is judged just right to compliment rather than be subdued by or dominating the classic stout theme. It is very much a spiced stout in practice and one that is ultra-yummy. This would be fantastic as some kind of flavoring for a sauce or batter given the depth and quality of flavors. I rarely get two 5.0 bottle beers in one day and this one came directly after 8-4-1 Redhook so I was even harder to amaze. This is a savory beer in a good sense, satisfying down to the gills, a rare combination of flavors should should be more common and be tried often again.

Brew Dog Storm
RATING: 4.0
Fraserburgh, Scotland
This is going to be one of the most controversial beers you try when you see it and sip it down. Stormy for sure. The teal blue letter on the black label while challenge one's sight for one thing. The "malt beverage" tag partnered with barrel aging is quite new - a cheap thing together with a premium thing. The color is hazy gold and not exactly the expected aging material that normally is loaded with dark malts. It is almost smokey enough to be a rauschbier and has a harsh, medicinal finish that is either "dripping with oak, lurid, and challenging to love" or "wow...new and crazy...just what I needed today, something well made and creative" to quote two of my trusted advisers who drink too much beer and call their mothers far too seldom for their hobby. For me it is big, eccentric, hard to love in some ways, maybe like a bad girl who want to like very much but know better. Storm as smokey as three block of burned out warehouses with three companies still hosing it down to embers and Sal grinning from his white Cadillac four blocks down. There are thing here I do not identify as beverage or food flavors. Hops are there but musty fungus is three notches above that mess. The whiskey barrel nip is there and that makes things probably about another compounds far more complex. Many folks are neutral on this. Being a beer blending, I look as this one as an opportunity to make other beers more odd and this one improved with certain things like sweetness and more malt. 

Clipper City Heavy Seas Mutiny Fleet Barleywine Style Ale
RATING: 5.0
Baltimore, Maryland
Clipper City has the whole pirate thing down in spades, both in the insufferably longnames and graphics which seem to bring some clarity to whole confusing brand. They have a clipper ship theme, a heavy seas subbrand, something about "Mutiny Fleet" and other things about "Below Decks". And finally we get to Barleywine Style Ale name in 22 ounce doses. I'd be confused and annoyed by all this plank-riding 'cept a certified grog at 10% beats a rum swig any sea 'a any day from the worthies...splice the mainbrace. Drink the dark and sudsy faire and smartly lads. [pirate lingo over...I love and hate it both, so be forewarned]. An over-the-top barleywine seems easy and common these days now that everyone is turning up all the ingredients up twelves notches and doing crazy things to them. This stuff is oak-aged in bourbon barrels in a cellar; hence the "below decks" reference. It pours out a dark amber-brown, the head ivory and lasting but low. The the nose is whiskey-malt and clearly special. First sip is so delicious and smooth I am instantly compelled to order my assistant Guido to order me a case...but alas I do not have an assistant and must go back to Whole Foods on my own and do bottle grab among the young, agile, beer smug patrons. There are no heavy seas, mutinous events, or bare bones deception here. The only thing on a pirate theme I might offer is that this is brew as smooth as the Cap'ns best velvet hat or his favorite silk scarf or his mistress' bosom. This is true luxury and exotic pleasure among us fools and common men; a brew so exalted and commendable I feel not prepared for or worthy of it. There is no barrel-aged brew more fine as I write this in June 2010. I am smitten, surprised by this firm in fact, and in all respects enchanted and ravished by molecules full and cleverly delivered. The seas may be heavy but my weight is lifted and my horizon clean and clear, blue and blissful with every sip here. I'm so glad an American brewery has reached to this lofty place and found a way, a joyous and charming way to succeed so fully and with such consumate perfection. The molecules all allign in this bottle and in this pour and the brewing arts have never had a better advocate. There is clear and present danger for no wine or simple liquor will engage one as this blessed and grand barleywine. If a barleywine can trump any wine costing as much then is here is one statement towards that proof. Few wines in this price range will be half as noble or enticing. 


Firestone Walker Double Barrel Ale u raa 5.0 913 BEST NEW AMBER ALE TRIED 1997 Los Olivos CA Using an oak barrel fermentation process they describe as exclusive, this Cali- fornia microbrew produces a fine golden-amber ale with a persistant creamy head. It is slightly aromatic and is immediately flavorful with high quality malt and ale yeast flavors. An authentic English ale yeast and five blended malts are employed together with both English and Slovenian hops. The two brewers note their wine making experience with oak has helped their work with this amber beverage. Reviewers with extensive ale experience were almost uni- formly impressed with the sophisticated flavor components, roundness of the appeal, and moderate sweetness. You could present this to any real ale fan from 'over there' and you'd th be impressed. Highest recommendation.

Founder's Backwood's Bastard Bourbon Barrel Aged Ale
RATING: 5.0
Grand Rapids, Michigan
The four pack tells me they're going for quality and a price point that had freakin' better deliver. If it doesn't a go mega-savage on their tails. The musty, somber tan and gray tones of the long-beared backwoods dude on the label is plain and simple amazing art - so good a beer label of any fluid brilliance may be in the final analysis unworthy of it. I get the backwoods thing with that old Kentucky (or maybe TN) bourbon barrel theme - though those Tennessee Bastards (read: Jack No. 7) don't technically qualify as bourbon with all their fancy but effective carbon filtering and such. This stuff is 50 IBU's and 10.2% ABV. It pours as reddish-copper as an old Kentucky single batch fav, probably a red ale in general classifications, and the head a tall stack of golden-beige bubbles. You get the true nose which this style should confirm - sassy malt with tall whiskey notes all around, a very authentic presentation from nose to sip here. I'd almost swear the North Carolina ABC folks made a mistake and let a 20 proof whiskey slip by in little, artful 12 oz. bottles. "Oh God...this is real...yes, yes" was by unexpergated first impression and it sounds kinda dumb if you don't taste this stuff a bit warm for the first time. Those barrels are cranking out flavor like I've never found in any beer before and while I'm no whiskey hound, I have experienced some of the best and can appreciate smooth work of KY geniuses entering by body and thrilling my mind. The whiskey notes almost give it a medicinal theme, far different from the Scottish (Scotch) Ale approach, wrongfully bitter to some tastes but good old bastardic southern charm to me. I'd almost want to hang a new classification of this one label as Whiskey Ale for nothing in this group is so authentically suggestive of the stronger drink or it's glorious casks as this one. The other 5.0's are wonderful and priceless and saintly in their way but here is whiskey flavor as it deserves to be. The art on the label continues as majestically through the glass and into every pour. I am simply blown away.


Innis and Dunn Original Oak-Aged Beer  (TOP 20 NEW FINDS!!!!)
RATING: 5.0
Edinburgh, Scotland
The Scotch bottled-styled presentation is pleasant and interesting. A small lower decal mentions it's aged 77 days in "select oak barrell". Color is light amber with a largish head. Flavor is smoother than any Scotch on the planet. Vanilla, honey, strong but never bitter hops, and citrus notes come to the brain in wonderful thumps as if from a Nerf hammer. Complexity abounds and I wonder why not more ales are made this way. Time it takes but we have the money and will gladly pay! Heck, add another 20 days and bill us more! Anyone, everyone who drinks this nectar of the gods will want more and more. Price is no object when quality is so high and the style so remarkable. This is beer making at it's finest and is one of my top 20 new finds this year.

J.W. Lees Harvest Ale 1999 (reviewed July 2008)
RATING: 5,.0
Manchester, England
Purchasing this $5.99 single bottle (275ml) of beer clearly stamped 1999 in gold required some explanation when I checked out at the local Whole Foods. The pretty cashier, something like an approachable more blemished version of actress Christine Taylor, was curious why it might be "6 dollars or something". A long, eager fellow also enamered by the girl went running for a price. "No, it's from not the singles cooler (by the crawfish fritters, over-vinegared fresh salsa, and pesto dip)...I got it over near the meat counter" where they keep those corked Belgian treats but not the one's in the cooler.  Kudos to Whole Foods for carrying so many beers at fair prices. Anyhow, they assumed it was the entire 6-pack price at $5.99 like the Saranac I suppose. I assured them it was not and this required an explanation why Bud from 1999 would be dreadful and this nectar from East Kent Goldings hops and Maris Otter barley malt aged and "laid down" would be more like aging a very, very fine wine and something approach heaven-on-earth. Yes, we call them Barley Wines and for good reason. Color is rich amber, bordering on brownish-amber, lace long and well-distributed, given rise to a beige head of much length. ABV is 11.5% so one does get something extra besides the "educational value" of trying a beer that's a full 8.5 years ago. Aroma is sweet-malt. First taste is impossible to describe without resorting to things I know much more about that aged ales - though I have had a Thomas Hardy's or three. If I drizzled molasses into a pan, melted down some Butterfinger candy bars, and added it rapidly to a cold British ale with idiocyncratic fullness, this might be the result. I'm happy they did it the long, hardy way and did not use food science magic or formulaic "factory beer" shortcuts. If there ever was a sipping beer this is it. If this book sells more than 12 copies, I'll get me a sixpack of J.W. Lees and head for the beach...or bed. The strength of the alcohol is well-hidden and I'd have guessed 6-7% tops. But overall this is wow, wow, wow and a bunch of them squiggly scientific notation thingies over the wows for good measure.

Jack Daniels Oak-Aged Pilsner
RATING: 3.0
Lynchburg TN/Cincinnati OH
JD is at it again. This Oak-aged Pils and an American Ale have been added to their premiere Amber Ale. That Amber failed to move us except for the the very lovely labels. Color is a bit darker than expected for a Pils. The head is microfine and lasting. Flavor at first palate suggests it is a step above a basic AMERICAN GOLDEN LAGER PILS. The mid palate has some 'inappropriate and abrupt bitter notes' as one reviewer put it. The finish is weaker, ragged, and semi-dry. At $6.99 one can do much better although we would recommend you order their cute bottle opener for $2.00. It is drinkable but clearly this 90's effort is not as refined or polished as their harder stuff. 

Mendocino Talon True Style Barley Wine
RATING: 5.0
Saratoga Springs, New York
This very dark amber ale is 10.5% ABV and densely malty for it's long process of worshipping barley malt. It is so tangy, molasses-infused, and just plain yummy it could easily pass for a Scottish Ale. It is perhaps best classed as a "fruity amber/Scottish ale" if one judges it on taste alone - process and formula being something else in the brewing world. The finish has enough hops to round it out and earn my highest rating. The ABV is about right and does not overwhelm or offend at any point in the unfurling of taste notes. It is downright scrumptous on a cold evening, better than many wines, and yet with more ethanol than lots of grape-dervied stuff. Criticisms in the media have included a lack of carbonation (not sweat to me) and a syrupy approach - show me a barley wine that is not a sweet molasses pour and I'll show you barley wine light! It is aged over a year and so we place it with his group of wine beers. It has been on the market since February 2004 and is still going strong now in 2008.

Otter Creek Quercus Vitis Humulus French-Oak-aged Ale
RATING: 3.5
Middlebury, Vermont
As a botanist this is a name after my own heart - Quercus=oak, Vitis=grape, and Humulus=hop in the familiar Latin. This Imperial Series product is a whopping 12% ABV at 27 deg. Plato using Bohemian lager yeast. French grape juice is added and a second fermentation with Champagne yeast is added to the process. Then it is aged in lightly toasted French oak, the entire passage being a full 6 weeks - compared to about 6 minutes for your average American piss-water lager. It pours a light golden-amber with an enthusiastic, bubbly head in golden-beige, the lace long and slow. I've been very critical of grape juice mixed with ale before (at they have almost always failed), but here they seem to have it dialed in with some sophistication - and that means not overdoing the grape-i-iness. While not wrongly blended, it doesn't improve it much in the final analysis. There's a bit of cloudiness here (slight) and some sticky carmel malts to make one think barleywine. The entire presentation comes often jumbled and confused at first. Many sips later does to clarify the goal or end game at all. Usually the malts, hops, yeast, and other notes saturate the tongue and you get a theme of some known kind, even if unique and creative and crazy. Here we have more of that kitchen-sink style of brewing where more of everything is simply culinary clutter as opposed to diversity and depth.  I like it better very cold but even a little warmer (as any sipping beer must endure), one gets a muddle of good things which in the final analysis is just a pile of good things without synergy or harmony. A stack of chrome, burled wood, pounded metal, and fine leather does not a Rolls Royce make.

Rogue John John Ale
RATING: 
Newport, Oregon
Rogue actually makes beer and spirits and their two masters of each realm have the first name of John. The ale guy uses whiskey barrels from the distilling dude to produce this amazing product. The ale pours a rich honey-amber gold, loaded with Dare and Risk malts as well as Saaz, Willamette, and their own Rogue Revolution hops. Pacman yeast is used and this all results in an exhilarating brew with a medium-sized ivory head. First sip reveals the depth of a barrel-aged ale which is similar to a bottle-conditioned barleywine at times. Notes of oak, vanilla, whiskey (which is in part oak), and very smooth fruit esters come after a time. The hops are not rich but saturate the tastebuds after the first glass. It has a thick, sticky presentation but because the sweet malts and hops are moderate in the finish, it is neither cloying or annoying. This vibrant, sweet liquid is well-crafted and like so many Rogue productions, a sure sign of their preeminance in the American brewing landscape. 

Thomas Hardy's Ale e d 5.0 150 BEST BEER FOR AGING This Gourmet ale comes individually numbered like a good rare Port and is well worth searching out. It is imported by Phoenix Imports of Ellicott City ME who can help you find a local source. It comes in 6.33 and 12 oz. bottles about $2.70 and $6.00 respectively. This very old recipe was re- created in 1968 and first came to the US in 1986. This full yet smooth ale is better than most beers and wines. It ages to become creamy and smooth.

Stone Oaked Arrogant Bastard Ale
RATING: 4.5
Escondido, California
As a 7.2% ale, this stuff is "brewed WITH American oak wood chips". That apparently doesn't mean it's seen a barrel for even a minute but the chips do mellow most brewed or distrilled beverages of the ethanol-containing variety. Besides the "You're Not Worthy" logo on the very complicated painted bottle, I could not read half of the hype and don't think I missed too much. Go to www.arrogantbastard.com if you want a bit more hype and just a little fun. "This is an aggressive beer. You probably won't like it". I don't like reverse psychology in my beers but I'll forgive them for trying to get noticed in a very, very noisy field of endeavor. You can get your baby a set of Arrogant Bastard "onesies" and I don't believe that comes with a dozen year of therapist fees. Admittedly they say "MY DADDY is an arrogant bastard".

This brew is pretty strong, loaded with clamorous hops, later with notes of caramel, potent pine, fig, early hops, ample malt, and some resinous-raisiny glory. It's not chuggable and is best dealt with in modest doses; the patient sips of a leisurely drinker in fact. It's a good experience, too intense for some folks, never horrible, a bit too piney for some people, but a rather potent potpourri overall. It has enough mellowness (from the oak chips perhaps) to be drinkable and overcome that overall everything-but-the-kitchen-sink approach to formulating a truly strong beer. Complex it is but then so is the state fair or flea market with everything under the sun and not one central theme except to overwhelm the senses. Sensory overload is possible and clearly planned. It is a bit forward, harsh, not entirely integrated, and bitter in some of the finish moments and not all of them will be the same. Their website term "aggressive" is probably a good moniker for it. AB is devilishly domineering and daring with a dash of moderation from time to time. It's strong, full of good and odd notes, robust but at times less so, mellow just when you felt offended, substantial and at times less so. You're thumped with a pretty velvet hammer, sometimes softly and other times painfully and yet you're more amused than angry from the experience. It's hard to review and thus a good thing for your next home beer tasting. Controversy follows this label and perhaps that is half the marketing plan; whether they're brewhouse geniuses or rabid fools will take a decade or so to determine. Sip it long and over and in so doing you get more confused and somehow more addicted.

Weyerbacher Insanity Oak-aged Ale
RATING:  5.0
Easton, Virginia
Immediately you notice the cloudy amber color that approaches a cider-like appearance. The 11.1% ABV on the label is also attention-grabbing to be sure. It sips with an elixir, nectar-filled quality, on one level a potent oaky hops tonic and on another plane a fruity malt liquor. It is wonderful in a brandy sniffer. Reviewers noted rich fruit flavors of raisons, hops, dates or fig, vanilla, faint banana, liquid brown sugar, paler molasses, and genuine bourbon flavors.  As barleywines go this one is complex and the whiskey-barrel aging adds of course a different set of flavors. The ethanol is more diguised than I would have expected but it is surely there. It is smooth in the whiskey smooth sense but unlike a whiskey it has fruit and malt flavors that are more approachable and beer-like for the average drinker. The oak and whiskey flavors are heavier than in some other labels where they scale down the barrel flavors to a hint. Here one gets a full treatment and perhaps that has to do with the barrel treatment or merely the length of aging. Here is a product of the highest order, the finest in executions, and one would be fully insane not to try it often.

ALE - BROWN

A basic classic Brown Ale is basically in the real world any ale with enough malt to make it medium to dark brown but not so pale or reddish to be a red or amber ale. It came to popularity in London in the late 1600's. The "mild brown ale" was one which favored malt above hops to various degrees. They lost favor about 1800 but came into some limited popularlity again from 1920-30 (Mann, Whitbread) and more fully after WWII. 

The Belgian brown ale is quite a different thing and given it's own section here. They tend to be very malty, more fruity and bright than a Bock or Dark Lager. They vary widely in the amount of hops but in general they favor malt side; the more hoppy brown ales being called Pale Ale by default. The fairly recently created concept of  Imperial Brown Ale is often a intense infusion of both malt and hops and is less potent than the full blown Barleywine. Sweetness varies but Mann's Original Brown Ale is sweet and Newscastle more dry and hoppy. Most of us tasting a very sweet brown ale are apt to confuse it with an Oktoberfest Dark Lager where malt and lots of sugar sources are used to full effect.

The Nut Brown Ale is usually on the pale, reddish-brown side, invoking the hue of beechnuts, hazelnuts, or chestnuts. For good measure, this style may have a nutty (generally hazelnut-type) flavor in addition to the color. Hops bitterness add to the nut-like aspect. The NBA form tends to be paler in color and less densely roasted in flavor. Some of them would ordinarily be put in the Amber Ale group except for their stated name.

Adnam's Nut Brown Ale
RATING: 5.0
Southwold, Suffolk
This beer is nut-like in flavor but not in color. It is actually a very dark brownish red. The head is ivory, thick, and enduring. The label is attractive and collectible with a perky little squirrel; not exactly art but very realis- tic. It has that perfect MELLOW flavor many of us crave in BROWN ALES and so often fail to receive. Some brown ales are sweet and others are LIGHT STOUTS. This is rich and dry without being hard to take in big dosses. We tested it with Morland Old Speckled Hen which while equally smooth was watery. This is clean and drinkable but without a single diminished flavor note. Crystal and pale ale malts are used in perfect strength. Their 'distinctive tang' is there but very subtle. Comparisons to an old Scotch are inevitable. Not to be missed. In 1996, it was awarded the BREWBASE BEST BROWN ALE


Bateman's Victory Ale
RATING: 4.0
Wainfleet
George Bateman and Sons make this Midland style ale as alternative to their Triple XB ale. It is a much darker reddish-brown with a bubbly head. Given its color we tried it from 40 to 55 degrees to probe its full flavor range. As with the XXXB it has a thick nectar-like feel and a malty theme. There is nothing of the sophistication of Caledonian's Double Dark Ale (a worthy comparison) although it has better aromatic appeal. Towards the warmer temps it gets too bitter and so maybe 45 degrees F. is a good compromise. It is best described as interesting and pleasant but like the XXXB it is not fully satisfying for either a hops or malt lover. At $2.39 a decent value.


Big Boss Bad Penny Brown Ale
RATING: 4.0
Big Boss Brewing Co., Raleigh, North Carolina
Like many of this classification, Bad Penny Brown Ale is neither overwhelming nor weak in taste. It's a good balance though not of the greatest complexity known. This 5.2% alcohol ale is also freshness dated. It is something of a Lite Porter in the best sense of that phrase. It is good but not as good as it might be. I suspect it is better experience in the confines of their rustic, slightly unkempt for effect, tavern full of typical cames. The color is darker than some of this style and the head is thin. Carmel and nut notes are too faint to earn a higher score. Sweetness is just right and I give them marks for not favoring the easy, sugary way of making a brown ale popular. Their other labels are sometimes better so I have hopes this will improve in time. The brewery mentions a "dark fruit finish" and from 1 to 6 samples I struggled to find that exact note. They malt the old-fashioned way per the propaganda with pale, chocolate, and crystal styles. The goal they proclaim was being "very reminescent of northern English ales" and I can't fault that overall. Consider they do rare oak-aged ales and limited editions from ancient recipes, I expect a bit more of them. Good beer just not great.

Brooklyn Brown Ale
RATING: 0.0

Steve Hindy the brewer describes this as: a rainbow of malt - pale, crystal, chocolate, and black - and powerfully hopped. It sounds so wonderful we hope to try it very soon.


Corsendonk Monk's Brown Ale

This import from Belgium comes in regular sized bottles or large 750ml ones with a Champagne-style cork and wire. It is imported into the US by Phoenix Imports of Ellicott City MD.


Cottonwood Low Down Brown Ale
RATING: 4.5
Boone NC
WEB SITE: cottonwoodbrewery.com

Cottonwood was established in 1992 in the Blue Ridge Mountains in a town between Charlotte and Asheville - best known for skiing and resident evangelist-charity operator Franklin Graham. They're off to a good start with a Bronze medal for this label in the GABF in 1997. Brewmaster Don Richardson uses three malts and Mount Hood hops to make this reddish amber ale have moderate to full strength Carbonation is steady. It is very malty at first taste but those full Mt. Hood hops enter stronger into the finish for more equal balance. Indeed the dry finish borders on an malty IPA for overall effect. While lots of American Brown Ales go the sweet malty route to success this one aims for a far more dry approach. It is very rewarding product and only a shade from perfection.


Devil Mountain Five Malt Ale
RATING: 4.5
"Cinti." OH
Five malts plus Liberty and Cascade hops are used to make this reddish brown ale. The creamy head is long lasting. It is not unlike Pyramid's Best Brown Ale tried recently. If your tastes run toward a very malty yet smooth brown ale this is a similarly wonderful find. Reviewers commented on it's 'complex work of malty beauty...would like a touch more hops' and 'malt overdose, barely any hops, semi-dry, polished finish, hard to handle in big quantities.'. Another malt lover gave it 5 bottles and felt the lack of clear hops was intentional and therefore not a flaw. Overall we felt Pyramid's brown was more smooth for mass consumption.

Dogfish Head Indian Brown Ale
RATING: 5.0
Milton, Delaware
One of American's finest offerings in this style. It is said by the brewer (and for once they get it right!) to be a cross between a rich IPA and a Scotch Ale, being both malty and hopped to abundance. Aromatic barley gives it a full bang and a nearly unforgettable style. It is potent on some many levels of malt, coffee, molasses, hops, chocolate, and fruit. The 7.2% alcohol boost is another plus.

Dogfish Head Pale Santo Marron Brown Ale
RATING: 5.0
Milton, Delaware
This is no dogfish at 12% ABV but is the Carcharodon megalodon subsp. brunneus - which for those of you from Rio Linda means a 30 foot long, giant brown shark. No wonder the label starts off with "Malt beverage aged on Palo Santo wood" - they can't call it a beer in half the country or more! I've always enjoyed some of the best Dogfish fantasy creations but an "unfiltered, unfettered, unprecedented brown ale aged in homemade brewing vessels" is preaching loud and proud to the choir and getting a lively AMEN, AMEN, and PRAISE JESUS BROTHER at stainglass-shaking decibels. By the way, the matte-finish label done in cedar tones is a nice touch we did not miss in our quest for all the best that wood can offer. Any true beer lover is getting wood in all the right ways at first sip. And the Dogfish dudes had best deliver for in these days of economic gloom, doom, and tomb I don't spend $13 for 4 regular bottles lightly when Budweiser is about sixty cents a gallon - actually I do but don't tell my accountant on this book project. He'll likely point out that I somehow missed the commemorative Pabst 78th Anniversary can which he and his mother enjoyed en masse last Saturday night and never a finer time could be had with Uncle Harold taking out his dentures, telling old jokes, and Aunt Millie showing her "fresh like" gall bladder scar, and Cousin Bertha showing off her 1/5 caret ring...tis real rose gold you know...just come off layaway at Walmart which would be a fine, affordable opportunity for some fellow wanting a bride in the 450 to 525 range with a fully paidoff Apache 317 model singlewide with the dee-lux olive and chrome trim ya'll. Anywho...this beer is a dark as the blackest stout, the head tanner than tan, and mid-length. 

The brown shark casts a wide shadow but it is gentle, caressing, and in the final analysis very impressive but harmless fun. The aforementioned Palo Santo wood comes from Paraguay and Dogfish was 10,000 gallon tanks made of such - thought to be the largest wood tanks since before Prohibition. Having enjoyed oaked beers before, ranging from Frenchified Euro stuff to KY bourbon barrels, I found a familiar elegance here but one taking me light years above Kentucky supermarket oak-barrel brews of late. Here we have a spinning, dancing, sweet herbal quality, not easily explained but wisely judged by the Brewmasters. I'll assume one must go to Paraquay for such a precise and exact flavor. There are notes of licorice drops from childhood melded to strong florals that approach homemade rose hip candy. Being so dark it is drenched in malt, not so much drenched as angelically-brewed and melded seemlessly with novel and choice aspects; a beer worthy of our most careful and expert considerations, and rewarding on dozens of subtle points. These points may be alien, otherworldly, and enticingly exotic but they always deliver with grace and real ale passion. In truth, I cannot appreciate it fully even four bottles in and such is the mark of a fine liquid feast meant to be put before our internal jury, over various moods, pauses in evidence, tides of time, and diverse sensory places. The label says "lush and enjoyable" but their chosen word "epic" matches my feelings best and I am not generally known for feelings. Here's a beer I really feel and care about. It is at once dainty and crazy, violently wrought of the earth and yet refined already, calming in the long sip, a synthesis of plant stuff old and new, hard and soft, not offending or puzzling at any time. PSM is Einstein and Wyeth smart with both logic and emotions satisfied. I find it of priceless appeal, easily the most rewarding new brew find in the last part of 2008. Collect some at all costs and conference among knowlegable and deserving friends to get your own rankings if numbers and words matter at all. Forestry has met gifted brewing and on this memorable tasting day we are all the wiser and more hopeful for it.


The Duck-Rabbit Brown Ale
RATING: 4.5
Farmville, North Carolina
Duck-Rabbit, the self-described "Dark Beer Specialists" have a nice dark amber-brown ale here with lovely malts and moderate sweetness. There is nice chocolate malt quality blended to modest amounts of Amarillo hops for spiciness. Saaz hops is added dry in the fermentor to add floral notes. Seven varieties of malt are used and that diversity shows in the final product. Very often when a brewer brags about "small batches" I think: thank's for sparing the world the nuisance of your inferior product. Here we hope they get production up and outside NC and TN where they abide now. I would like it a bit stronger in the finish but it's very smooth as is. Their choice of chocolate malts over nutty or earthy ones suits me fine but this will not be universally true among brown ale freaks.



George Killian's Irish Brown Ale
RATING: 4.0
Golden CO
While Killian's Red Ale is somewhat tolerable (never exciting) pop red ale this IRISH BROWN ALE is a superior product. It is nicely flavored with malt character but like so many specialty brews out of Golden CO it fails to go beyond into the realm of true excellence. One reviewer described our major con- clusion: 'it is one Coors I'd actually think of buying again'. The finish is full and satisfying though not world-beating. Carmel and chocolate malts are used to make what is perhaps the best mass-market American dark beer - excluding perhaps Miller's Velvet Stout. Scores of microbrews will beat this but at the $5.50-6.50 price tag only a few like Saranac would compare. There are also quite a few more expensive brown ales that are less pleasing.

Goose Island Nut Brown Ale
RATING: 4.5
Chicago, Illinois
Made in the traditional British style, this ale has a chestnut color with a balance of sweetness and malt. The nut flavor is clear too.

Griffin Biere Brune (Brown Ale)
RATING: 4.0
Montreal Quebec
McAuslan of Montreal has gotten high marks with us and elsewhere for their St. Ambroise beers in boxes. This Griffin sixpack product is also $10 around our area. Color is medium-dark amber and rather bright with a huge head. Flavor is on the medium malt side with a little zip of bitter hops. It is one of those ambers that is subtle without being weak and complex without being heavy. With Thomas Hardy's as a long-time standard for Brown Ale this one is a tad inferior. In the World Beer Championships this earned a 88 while Sam Smith Nut Brown got 81 and Newcastle Brown scored 84. That shows just how this fits in that acclaimed international taste test. We can highly recommend this beer although we think they'd sell more at $7-8.00.

Harviestoun Black Ale "Old Engine Oil"
RATING: 4.5
Alva, Scotland
We don't have a "black ale" category here so I'm putting this super dark, porteresque ale in the Brown Ale group as an extreme dark rep of the group. This aptly badged "viscous, chocolatey, roasty" ale is named "Old Engine Oil" for it's visual similarity to ancient, filthy petrolium; the sort of stuff you drain with some amusement from your pretty girl friend's 1977 Honda Accord after she mentions it hasn't been running well since that oil change "maybe four or five years ago...bla bla bla...something a Macy's sale that spring so maybe it was six years". She adds that she's has faithfully changed the windshield fluid and tire air twice a year. This brew is pleasantly dark at first punch, densely malty to be sure and in this respect resembling some fine porters. ABV is 6% and I'd have boosted that some to give it more elite, memorable status, especially with the mid-premium price point. I rather like it but don't expect to buy it often except as a joke which is handles with as much smoothness as the finish.

Harviestoun Ola Dubh Special Reserve 16 Ale
RATING: 5.0
Alva, Scotland
I'm still not sure what the black ale in the "Old Engine Oil" bottle was all about so when this second offering called with 8% abv and the flavor notes of 16 years Scottish whisky, I had to smile. The labeled is signed by a brewmaster and a "Master of Wood" - that will go over well in a few bars I know - should they still be capable of reading the fine, fine print. Eight full bucks for a measely 11.2 ouncer is sad but I always somehow manage to forgive the quality brewers for being a bit stingy with liquid black gold. I too am a wee bit Scottish. "Ola Dubh" means "black oil" and this particular batch owes it's rich, nippy elements to Highland Park's Special Reserve 16 from Orkney; which my Googlings tell me is easily a $60 bottle unless a put-away older vintage. It is so named for it is "gloopy and viscous" - only yes on the second adjective. The color is porter black. "Bittersweet" is right too but only in a very subtle way. This stuff is SMOOTHER than the Berliner Philharmoniker principal violinists working their skilled way so intricately around a Bach cello concerto while riding in a Maybach down the Autobahn on a crisp, clear day - OR Prince Harry's latest girlfriend's soft, creamy posterior while on holiday picnic in the remote woods at Birkhall - whichever analogy you find most interesting. All masters of wood. Ola Dubh.

Johnson's Brown Ale
RATING: 5.0
Charlotte NC

Our earlier review of Johnson's Amber Ale suggested an effort full of quality but sadly thin on flavor compared to other $7-8 microbrews. This 'honest ale' uses pale, crystal, and chocolate malts and arrives with a decidely dark brownish red color. Under lower light it almost looks like German darks. The head is light tan and lace is variable. The flavor is quite impressive with a wonderful malt complexity that might be termed a LIGHT STOUT - which after all a malty BROWN ALE really should be. (some BROWN ALES of trade are just malty AMBER ALES with no deep chocolate malt sophistication.) A reviewer said: 'appeals to dark/stout/porter drinkers...but is more harmonious with lavish feasts and finishes decently dry.'. A much needed US ale. Highly recommended.

King and Barnes Festive Ale    e    rf    5.0    993        Horsham, Sussex    This amber-brown ale is bottle conditioned with yeast sediment. The head is    ivory, finely foamed, and lasting. It proved for us to be superior to their    Broadwood Ale; oddly named the Best British Ale. Even in one case where it    was dated a full 25 months (long conditioning for a supermarket stock) it was    quite heavenly and had no bad flavor elements. It was less sweet than the    Broadwood and only the finish provided a bit of dryness. The bottle conditioning    no doubt provides more depth of character and quality ale fruitiness. Their    Christmas 1997 product was more impressive overall but this one will not    likely displease anyone. This is one good example of how American microbrewed    ales don't always measure up. This bottle-conditioned quality can't be faked.

Lagunitas The Hairy Eyeball Ale
RATING: 5.0
Petaluma, California
"Here's lookin' atcha!" says the label, noting "no actual eyeballs can actually be found in the bottle". This is a big, BIG, BIG brown ale, so much so I wondered if it was a barleywine. They make something called Gnarly Wine so I suppose this is the weaker cousin at 8.8% ABV. It has been called an American Strong Ale and that's about right too. It's a "warmer" as they say and loaded to the hilt with crystal malts and just the right amount of sweetness to my taste. It pours a ruby-brown shade, the head off white and shorter than I wanted. I like a good nuclear malt ale and this is more of a battlefield stategic nuke on the scale - not to say weak but say it's on the moderate side of very, very strong. There's faint hops in the balance, more apparent with saturation of the buds, some vanilla I suspect, possible spices, and deep plumy-raisiny fruit esters as befitting a worldclass ale. I bought a six of this to celebrate the 2010 Oscars along real cheddar-filled soft pretzels and chili-cheese shredded beef burritos. I had dream more vivid that Avatar that night! Lagunitas is marking their mark in the US brew scene and they have truly acheived here, an execution so advanced I find it effortlessly pleasant. Some of the best strong ales are solid, satisfying, and clearly above the rest for reasons that defy analysis. It's instant admiration, love at first sight of the liquid variety, and adoration plain and simple. Lagunitas products and especially their seasonal treasures are always must tries and joys of the highest order.

Left Hand Deep Cover Brown Ale
RATING: 3.0
Longmont, Colorado
A purple-tied spy looks through binoculars on this stunning label. The brew pours glowing amber with a beige head of long duration. There are passages of malty interest but overall this beer is far to thin in flavor. There is no real hops for balance and a pure-malt brown ale is okay really - but not if you're freakin' stingy with the malt guys!!!! There's a little hops spice now and again but essentially that ingredient doesn't exist. I'll make 'em a deal. How about using more malt, more varieties for depth too, and spending less money on the website tricks flying over the glass and bottles and dunking the viewer in suds? It's just 4.23% ABV and that suggests they make it in 3.2 nanoseconds for profit reason. The website speaks of "light body with nice complexity" which is off course only HALF TRUE. And thanks for using Goldings hops. I'm sure the Tonka dump-trunk full of them you bought to cover the whole year's production must have been a real investment! As a friend of mine suggested with a wry smile, the purple tie dude with binoculars on the label must be looking for flavor because it's not on the other side of the label. Maybe it's just a ruse; actually being a strong, wonderful brown ale but made to taste like watery crap to stay under deep cover.


Leinenkugel's Fireside Nut Brown Ale
RATING: 4.0
Chippewa Falls MN/Milwaukee, WI
I've like some of the Leinie's products of late, finding their Sunset Wheat to be a glorious bright spot in the affordable, supermarket-based beer universe. This 4.9% "beer with natural flavors" was okay but given that the flavor was unspecified I began to assume it was some food science, lab-made hazelnut extract like we get in coffee creamers and such things these days. It's tasty but this seasonal amber offering still troubles the mind for it's natural yet artificial (to brewing) approach. Natural flavoring added to naturally brewed beer is after all artificial to the real brewing process. Add as much fresh organic raspberries or mothers milk to beer as you will - and you still have a unnatural amended thing. Their website admits chocolate, maple, caramel, and HAZELNUT "top notes" and I think the confession is in the later name. It's a mass market product and will be drunk but millions of frat boys and their bleached blonde girlfriends in the early part of the semester when the bank account is fat. Working slups like me will try it once or twice and maybe one more time when the convenience mart has it on some up front display stand.

Limestone Dark Ale u raw 4.0 1190 Lexington KY Made by Lexington Brewing Company, this dark ale has a moderate strength of hops and malt; slightly favoring the later. The is dark brown with a head of moderate size. It is very satisfying and carries a good amount of dryness overall. The bottle is freshness dated.


Longshot Hazelnut Brown u raw 4.0 751 Cincinnati OH This is a copy of an award-winning brew out of 1680 entries in the World Homebrew Contest. Sponsored by Boston Beer, this APA category was won by Doug and Vicki Parker of Leesburg FL. Original Gravity is 13.9 and 17 Hopping Units are reported from the analysis. The 'nose' or aroma is something that would remind an angel of home. There are hazelnut, vanilla, and coconut things going on; you'd swear it's a form of a trendy coffee. It's colored bright and dark brownish-red with a lasting off white head. Doug and Vicki have made a very tempting beer with full flavor and superb drinkability. The main complaint (offered by some folks only) is that it's 'a bit too International Coffee/arti- ficial to be beer'.If you like to experiment with beer flavorings it's a winner.

Lost Coast Downtown Brown Ale
RATING: 4.0
Eureka CA
From the famous Lost Coast people comes this ale that is dark reddish brown and with a foamy biege head. It has a nice mixture of fruit and hop notes but is not nearly as fruit-filled as Red Seal Ale that comes in similar bottles. As a dark brown ale the color and long-surviving head are perfect. The finish is a bit weak and we'd perhaps like more enduring depth in malt or fruit elements. With fine-tuning it could be one of the Left Coast's very best. Bronze Medal in 1993 GABF in American Brown Ale group.


McSorley's Double Dark Ale raw

Mendocino Black Eye Ale
RATING: 3.5
Saratoga Springs, NY
Once you get past the whole Mendocino/New York disconnect, the title "the ultimate blend" comes to one's attention in a hurry. Color is gourmet rootbeer dark. Head is smallish in a minute but from something much larger. Lace is weak. It is technically a "black and tan" and it comes across rather sweet from the get go. There's lots of caramel, decent strong malt, little noticed hops, and a fairly acid finish. At 6.5% ABV it's a bit above average. One of my friends considered it a "soda stout", a beer of that famous style but sweetened and carbonated up for appeal. Most reviewers I polled agreed that it's too sweet (damn that easy, popularizing feature so available to brewmasters!) and it did not do as well as it deserved for that one reason. It's a potentially very fine product (made hoppier and bitter by two notches), damaged by it's over indulgence in too accessible sugars. We have spoken elsewhere of BEER COOLERS, very easy ways to take hops and malt with ease. Let the medicine go down...just a spoonful of sugar makes the medicine go down.... I will be clobbered with mercy for calling such a "girl beer" but it is fair to say our better halves or future halves tend to like things a good deal less bitter, hoppy, strong, and idiocyncratic than the average guy. That said (of course, of course, mercy please), there are probably 22.1 million females in this land and any other who appreciate beer at or above the average male's ability. Let's be reasonable and fair. MANY women and SOME guys without appreciation of bitter, hoppy flavors will love this. Others will think it a cheap route of Escape to Sugarland for a brewery known for much better. Kill me now.

Naked Aspen Brown Ale u raw 4.0 635 Cold Spring MN Color here is a very red amber with a small head and some carbonation. It has a sweet malt aroma. Reviewers agreed it was the best of their 3 labels we've reviewed in full. If you put it against Johnson's and Rogue Hazelnut Brown Ales (that we liked so much) it is outclassed. While many BROWN ALES emphasize chocolate and crystal malt tastes this is a candy-like carmel sort of ale. As with their Pale Ale it's a shade too thin at times although thankfully the sweetness is not overdone. One reviewer noted 'if they are aiming at sweet carmel flavor they'd best use Old Peculiar as model'. To another 'not enough depth and diversity in malts' and also 'enjoyable but needs fine-tuning'. With the $8.00 pricetag that fine-tuning is mandatory.

Natty Greene'e Old Town Brown Ale
RATING:
Greensboro NC
2006 Silver Medal at Great American Beer Festival in English Brown Ales

Neptune Dead Sea Premium Ale u raw 4.5 861 MOST UNIQUE AMERICAN ALE SPRING 1997 Manhattan, New York, NY The name 'Dead Sea' might suggest the latest Isreali microbrewery. Not so. The second image we had was the pictured NYC waters and somehow our thirst left us. The third impression was the lovely dark brown color of this ale and a rather nutty, sweet aroma that your chief editor thought resembled the scent of his mother's freshly baked carrot cake. It is in fact quite sweet, grain-flavored, malty, and fruity as such a baked treat would also deliver. Among our panal (one of the more experienced in recent years) it was widely described as 'unique' and therefore 'a must try'. If you do not like a SWEET MALTY ALE then you have our permission to skip it unless you collect very well done labels. One reviewer called the flavor 'raisin-like'. Are you curious?


Newcastle Brown Ale
RATING: 4.5
Newcastle Upon Tyne, Scotland
McEwans comes from Scotland and this label comes from Newcastle Upon Tyne in good old England. This is a bright and dark amber with a bubbly head. It is not as strong as McEwans Export Ale but still carries a very pleasant traditional British ale body and taste. It is crisp enough to drink in some quantity - unlike some British ales - but does not compromise on taste. The finish is short so it will not intrude upon a gourmet feast. Good table ale and readily available in the US for over a decade. 

Old North State Box Turtle Brown Ale
RATING: 4.5
Youngsville NC
The North Carolina State reptile appears to have some connection with this rich mid-amber ale. The brew is made slow with carmel and roasted malt flavors; like the turtle it is worth the wait they tell us. The beast's 'quiet and unyielding determination' is perhaps what the brewers wanted in their own nature. The results show with a rich malty dose with enough hops to fill up a good balance. It is semi-dry in the finish and is certainly the finest beer we purchased for $5.99 (per sixpack) this year. If you like your brown ales more on the order of the so-called LIGHT STOUT this will please. It does not have overwhelming chocolate notes but good toffee and coffee qualities. One reviewer noted: 'malt lover's choice...made with refined judgement. I salute them.'

Ølfabrikken Brown Ale
RATING: 4.5
Roskilde, Denmark
This bottle has that Grolsh-style, reclosable hardware at the top and thus a price to match. Eight cereals and malts are blend to give some sweetness, vague citrus notes, and above all else rich malt. It is unfiltered and unpasteurized for our benefit.
 


Oregon Brown Ale
RATING: 3.5
Portland OR

This product out of Portland uses Crystal, Pale, Roasted, and Victory malts to achieve what they call a 'tawny nut-like flavor'. Nut-like we understand but what is 'tawny flavor'. Anyhow the head is tawny beige and is quite large with micro-foam. Low carbonation. The choice of malts tells us up front it's not the LIGHT STOUT brothy kind of BROWN ALE that is made using chocolate malts. Reviewers noted 'big lasting head and cherry red color but flavor is too mild' and 'Surprisingly dry and rather simple at first but the finish and enduring tastes are more malty'. A nip of hops was noted by a few in the finish. Most of us felt it was a shade too thin for even a non-chocolate kind of BROWN ALE. Others felt it was as good as some German darks at higher prices.


Pete's Wicked Tenth Anniversary Ale
RATING: 4.5
St. Paul MN

The label has the friendly (?) pitbulloid face of Millie, the brewer's family pet. Of course she does look like Spud's sister at the very least! Made in the 'original American brown ale' style it is rich brown with a lasting head. Flavor is malty and hoppy with good balance. It is not a startling or very shocking beer but in its simple quiet way it is quite drinkable and rewarding. But if one tries to contrast it to the vast number of new Wicked flavors it would be a difficult task. This one is rather uncommon so the label is worth collecting we suspect.

Pyramid Best Brown Ale
RATING: 4.5
Seattle WA/Kalama WA
This winner of the 1990 Great American Beer Festival for BROWN ALE brownish- copper with a persisting ivory head. Flavor is overflowing with smooth, brothy malt but barely enough hops to round out a semi-bitter nip. It is pos- itively the most smooth malty beer of the full-bodied sort. That is a real accomplishment. The finish is semi-sweet and very refined. Those of us who might prefer a BROWN ALE more on the chocolate or even carmel side are still happy. If you love a good German dark (single bock) this is sure to please you. Priced at $7.99 it is surely a good value given the depth and sophisti- cation of the product. Reviewers noted 'malt lover's nirvana...so smooth it almost seems like an non-alcohol drink'.

Red Hook 8-4-1 Expedition
RATING: 5.0
Portsmouth, New Hampshire
This limited release brew for Spring-Summer 2010 is tabbed as an American-style Imperial Brown Ale, a worthy and promising class not shown everyday in any country. At 9.5% ABV it is wizard, old time czar, Bosendorfer and Chrysler Imperial imperial. It is named for eight brewers who worked in four teams and had their recipe blended into one final product; sort of a strategy used in whiskey and wine blending but perhaps harder to pull of in the beer world. It pours a clear dark rosy-brown, the head large and creamy in both color and texture. Flavors are pure yet complex in the final analysis, well developed and also harmonious, including dose after luscious dose of sweet malt, some smoke, and even oak qualities. Like a well-tuned orchestra, the sweetness and ethanol sections seem to know just when to solo strong and when to be soft and when to be silent. Sugar comes from the use of honey, brown sugar, and candy sugar but with all that ethanol is not going to be sickly sweet. 

The finish is actually quite dry and smooth for this much of everything. Malts include wheat, pale, Munich, Caramel, Smoked, and chocolate type. Hops as one would expect are diverse too, covering Crystal, Sterling, Cascade, Alchemy, and Willamette varieties. Hops are medium on the bitter scale to me, mostly this rich due to dry-hopping later. For all the blending, the devotion to theme and style is not lost. The idea of shared excellence, minged this well, is not easy to pull off especially with eight chefs working in the kettle. Brew cannot be stew and vice versa. There is surprising unity and I suspect this came from merging the recipes are a particular ratio and not in four equal portions. In other words, "let's add 5% more of #3, not quite...now add 8% of #1...perfect. Stop. Record the percentages." They've melded this truly imperial product into a champion nectar and one of the most impressive brown ales I've tasted in the last few years. When I think of all the money I wasted on bad brown fest lagers and horrible mass market darks, I take refuge in the fact that brews this good exist on earth and we are capable of making them and fusing them into our bodies. Can we dream that brews this good be available in every US super market every single day of the year?

 

Rock Creek Nutrageous Brown Ale
RATING: 4.5

This nut brown ale is fairly outrageous and carries a rich flavor. Sweet malt flavors predominate what is a nicely crafted product. Slightly bitter hops back it hop as a secondary theme. It is not fully overwhelming but it will delight most brown ale lovers.

R.J. Rocker's Bald Eagle Brown Ale
RATING: 3.0
Spartenburg, South Carolina
As many of you know, Spartenburg once was a lousy, poorish town and not much to write home about. Today some of finest BMW vehicles come from it's massive white factory and many even make their way back to the Fatherland. Their motto is "every beer, every drop, every time". The company formed in 1997 with owner/brewer Mark Johnsen, an NJ native who'd home-brewed for years. He served in the Gulf War and in 1991 found himself stationed in Germany, trying to learn as much about brewing as possible. He paired with John Baunight IV of Highlands, NC and Nick Wilkdrick of Jacksonville FL to get things going. The label is odd and is I think a black-and-white picture of a mountain. At first glance it looked like a sleeping dog or nest of hamsters. Perhaps a graphic artist needs to be consulted or change who they've got now. It's a rather goofy, fragmented label. The ale pours bright amber with a fine-textured cream head of good duration. Chocolate and black malts were used and 5.6% ABV is planned. The malts are earthy but sadly on the weak side. "Smooth" is correct but smoothness should never come at the expense of depth, ingredient integrity, and satisfaction. Sadly, here it's too much of a compromise and I doubt the now educated beer-drinking masses will not trust this label. One could get away with this in 1980 but not today. There are too many good, complex, full browns about for this to succeed. I do look forward to their other products, many of which are reportedly stronger and up to 8.5%. This one I'm writing off. The Bimmer has bald tires and the tank is nearly empty. This would be a BMW 301 on the traditional scale of things.

Rogue's Hazelnut Brown Nectar Ale
RATING: 5.0
Newport OR
It been about a month since we've found a new John Maier ale. That's way too long. This 30 IBU ale comes with a bald guy in the lavender shirt painted on the front. I guess he is the 'Home Brewer in Each of Us' given the dedication. Color is dark reddish amber (not nut brown) with one big foamy tan head. The hazelnut part of the name refers to the aroma and flavor - not color. One notably sophisticated reviewer used nothing more than 'wow!' at his first sip. The list of 13 elite ingredients makes fun reading. Highlights include chocolate malt, Saaz hops, Pacman yeast, and hazelnut extract. While it's not as nectary as some it's quite sweet. It remains a standard of great American brown ales and has been so over a decade now. It is endlessly impressive and if I had a dozen labels to serve a British or German visitor, this just might make the list.

Samuel Smiths Nut Brown Ale
RATING: 5.0
Tadcaster, England
The Old Brewery Tadcaster has since 1758 made traditional ales. This BROWN ALE carries a nut brown color of reddish-amber not unlike your average acorn. The head is tall, enduring, and foamy. Earthy aroma. Flavor is a good blend of hops bitterness (as any real UK ale) and malt depth. Reviewers have commented on the 'assertive malting that finishes dry and wonderfully bitter' and 'one of the best imported British ales if your body needs malt like mine.' It is not chocolatey like Johnson's Brown Ale nor does it use a diverse malts and real hazelnut flavor like Rogue Hazelnut Brown. A few folks thought it was too strong and one suggested it was better if thinned by lager to 90%. A very rich and wonderful ale for those like a dry bitter perfection to malts.

Schmaltz Hebrew Genesis Ale
RATING: 4.5
Saratoga Springs, New York
Yes, there is such a thing as Kosher beer...so much better for washing down those tasty Hebrew National franks at the ballpark; though I still think chugging Manischewitz Concord Wine in that big rectangular bottle would be a close second. Read the label and a beer review practically writes itself: "Chutzpah never tasted so good". Cool line. "Smooth and distinctive" comes next. Ditto on the first word, very nearly so on the second. It is called "light brown" but under most light conditions I found it "brownish-amber". The off-white heads persists in some size like...like that cloud thing Moses saw in the desert. 'Nough! The quality of the malting is very high and it's finespun, artful balance in all aspects makes it a delight whenever found.

Schmaltz Hebrew Jewbelaton Twelve Ale (1996-2008)
RATING: 5.0
Saratoga Springs, NY
This wonderful dark brown (porter dark) ale commemorates their anniversity since the founding in 1996. It is 12% ABV made with 12 different malts and 12 different hops. The number 12 means completeness in old times and the 12 tribes are an easy connection here; Jacob had 12 sons. On the whole completeness theme Jesus had twelve disciples for example and many corporations today main that number with exactly 12 board members. The book of Exodus had 12 signs. There are 12 days of Christmas (named for the world's most famous Jew) and after drinking this sumptuous brew you and I may need a 12 step program!

The long lace is surprising for something so dark and carmel-drenched. It is almost syrupy in mouth feel and the sweet, luscious candy malt thrills the tonque like sweet treats for Hanukkah. This is truly a beer to remember, done to excess but not crudely so, always giving on-track, refined, sophisticated notes. It could almost be a sweet Scotch ale for its molasses charm and mahogany opacity. It is a simple theme but very nicely crafted, well-supplied with all the good flavors, lavish, and truly remarkable. The plentiful approach is appropriate for an over-the-top anniversary ale but in this case it is more about the beer than the celebration and cute label. Very, very nicely executed from people who's brewing art is rapidly approaching legend. If you love a sweet malty beer do find some of this limited stuff and you'll probably consume it in 12 minutes.

Schmaltz Hebrew Messiah Bold
RATING: 4.5
Saratoga Springs, New York
The last time I heard about a bold Messiah he was turning over the tables of the money changers in the temple and had a member of his posse who chopped off some dude's ear with a sword. They claim this Kosher brew is "worth waiting for" and a couple of other jokes. This might be the only beer label with three bible verses cited on it. Could be a trend for good. I have great beer recipe and story that fits Ezekial Chapter 23 to perfection. Color is very dark reddish-brown, head an antique ivory and lasting well. Aromas hints at strong malt, the first taste confirms medium malt density and a very high level of smooth, stirring attention to detail in all the flavor traces. It jumps on you a bit tart, then soothes you in refined malts, covering your tastebuds and brain like a thick comforter on a cold night. The softish malt notes pacify and soothe, giving you good things only and nothing harsh or rough ever. I would like it a notch fuller and then I might compete with some other offerings in this section. Not quite despised and rejected here but I'd like it more parting of the clouds and loud trumpets strong. But I suspect my Messiah is not theres. Considering I like my malt coming down like a B-52 full of cluster bombs and painted on with fat, thick brushes, this product just might be a 5.0 bottle for some of you with different sensibilities.

Sea Dog Old Gollywobbler Brown Ale
RATING: 4.5
Bangor, Maine
You'd better try to pronounce the name OLD GOLLYWOBBLER before consuming your first bottle. Afterword all attempts will be futile. Color is reddish-brown with a dense cream-colored head of foam. While some browns are a massive dose of chocolate and others are a malty treat this is something else. It is rather malty but the hops side of equation is not neglected and gives a full roundedness to the brew. We might call it a MALTY PALE ALE to sort it out from the LIGHT STOUT sort of BROWN ALE. Reviewers remarked on 'lots of good ingred- ients, skillfully handled...finish was a touch too bitter for me' and 'more hop- drenched than typical but for the hop lover that is a positive thing!'.

Smiles Heritage Ale
RATING: 5.0
Bristol , England
One is not used to seeing a British ale maker dating from just 1977. But in this case the centuries short of experience definately never shows. In fact some of the big, old giants had best watch out. This dark reddish-brown ale is immediately appealing to the tongue as being unquestionably full-bodied. There are quality notes of molasses, carmel, bitter hops, and tropical fruit competing for your attention. Every fool and his brother seem to be bottling their ale for the US market. This is one effort we welcome as a genuine real ale well worth the effort to import it. We'd certainly welcome another 3 or 20 labels from this firm.

Southend Chocolate Ale
RATING: 3.5
Charlotte NC/Charleston SC
This product from both Carolina states is brownish amber with a small tan colored head of moderate duration. A faint malt aroma prevails. Flavor is choc- olate-like (no Cacoa-based additives) as advertised but this is surely not a very full ale as one usually gets with a chocolate theme. All stouts and most brown ales with this flavor element prove a bit deeper and fuller. However it is not a weak beer by any means. The balance of sweetness and hops bitterness is not quite right but if you thrive on the popular German darks (ie. DAB, St. Pauli, Becks) this just might be your thing. There are certainly several superior brown ales from the Carolinas (among them Johnson's and Old North State) and a host more from other Eastern firms. As with their Carolina Blonde they require more complexity.

St. Feuilien Special Brune Ale (Brown Ale)
RATING: 5.0
BREWBASE AWARD: BEST BELGIAN BROWN ALE 1997

Le Roeulx Brasserie Friart produces this twice fermented BELGIAN BROWN ALE which actually appears as a lightly hazed amber under a ivory head of immense size. It carries a pleasant sweet malt character of many German darks but yet keeps one foot in the less heavy amber world so as to be more refreshing. It is a very culti- vated balance between richness and smooth, drinkable excellence; a state one rarely finds but is most apparent when confronted. If you need an ideal example of a superb BELGIAN BROWN or DARK ABBEY STYLE ALE there are none any finer. Some may prefer one or another French label but we would strongly recommend putting any of them (despite their impressive corks and elegant bottles) up against these 11.2 ounce wonders of the brewing world. I called in friend with a Bachelor of Extra Special Vitt

St. Paul Double
RATING: 5.0
Sterkens Meer of Belgium call this a BROWN TOP-FERMENTED ALE and use the phrase 'the beer paradise'. Their skinny bottle used for the Blond ale was unique. This fat bulbous 1 pt. 0.9 oz. thing is downright odd. You have copper foiled caps, glowing modern graphics label, and gold glitter imbedded in black glass! Oh yes. Is that worth collecting or what? Color is bright amber tinged a bit red. Head is large-bubbled with some lace. The flavor is one massive mystery. It meets the '1516 Law' so they can't use spices like the Blond. Steady sweetness meets a rather unique set of flavors that are hard to pin down. Reviewers suggested a 'sweet cherry but not lambic' flavor and a 'fruit drink surface quality adds malt and arrives at deep unique places.'

Star Nut Brown Ale
RATING: 4.5
Portland OR
Since 1894 the Star Brewing Co. of Portland has made quality beers. This BROWN ALE is dark reddish-brown with a big dark head. Little lasting carbon- ation. They describe it as 'medium maltiness' and that is quite correct. The comment about 'robust chocolate flavors' is questionable compared to other browns such as Johnson Brown Ale. Northern Brewer, Perle, and Tettnanger hops are used and show in the finish which is more hoppy than normal for the style. Reviewers noted 'a real buffet full of malt and hop flavors...truly delightful' and 'I tasted more hops than chocolate but what I found was simply first class'. The finish is semi-dry and has a long hops 'carry over'. Packag- ing is like Rogue and we applaude the similar ingredient list. Recommended.

Tolly Cobbold Cobnut Nut Brown Ale
RATING: 4.5
Ipwich, Suffolk, England
This very dark ale has a persistant tan head and a dose of roasted malt that is quite near the realm of the porter. It is sharp and tangy but the finish is smooth, clean, and dryish. it is quite pleasant and flavorful though there are irregular notes to be perceived on occasion. Some reviewers were totally convinced and thoroughly impressed while others had some reservations on the refinement aspects. It was a bit harsh in the first taste for some while others found the occasional flat or metallic note. It is not what one would expect of a modern UK ale but like some of them it is truly a bit idiosyncratic. This is a fine choice for your taste tests.

Unibroue Chambly Noire Dark Ale of Lees (Black Ale)
RATING: 4.5
Chambly, Quebec, Canada
This 6.2% ABV is an opaque blackish-red with a beige head. It is bottle fermented. They have emphasized the richness of toasted malts, some spice, smoky flavors, and aimed for a clean, dry finish. Hops bitterness is minimized but compliments the malt well. The flavor here is a revelation, more like some German darks lagers I've tried than than their usual Belgian fare. Thus I feel it belongs among the brown ale group instead of the brown or dark Belgians. The Beer Advocate puts it the Belgian Dark Ale but it shares very little with the classic style in my opinion. The first sip is tart but it quickly unfurls into a very different universe, one loaded full of earthy malts, notes of corn, bread, quality fruit, smoke, faint yeast, generic "nut", and a clean, dry finish. It's not the forceful, Hemi-charged, high alcohol labels that has made their fame but it's still a very nice product. If you rate it as a strong dark Belgian ale it fails but I find it not fully of that classification and best evaluated as it is, regardless or name or label. Their website never uses the word Belgian for this label and neither should you or I. 

Williamsville Studley Ale
RATING: 4.0
Fernandina Beach FL/Doswell VA
The name alone ought to sell this a few hundred extra cases but it truly stands on its flavor merits. (They didn't pander to the stud thing too much - the guy on the label looks like Martin Short playing Patrick Henry). Actually the name comes from Studley VA where the company farm is located. It is made made near a FL beach however. Confused? Color is medium brown with a deep tan head. Flavor is different - one of those qwirky little full malt punches that not everyone will appreciate. English hops and yeast were used. While the early notes are a medicinal-malt the finish is dry and hops bitter. One taster said: 'distinct but that is that a good thing here? Let's say it is not a smooth or easy drinking beer...'. Another wrote: 'a harsh way to get quality'.


ALE - EXTRA SPECIAL BITTER (ESB)

                                                    
Anderson Valley Belk's Extra Special Bitter (ESB) Ale
RATING: 5.0
Boonville CA   
Found by us on Halloween 1994 this Californian ESB from the great Anderson Valley people has a cheerful pumpkin orange color. The head is substantial and enduring. It is pleasantly bitter and overflows with rich hops which thelabel accurately describes as a 'savory fragrance'. The 'ambrosial maltiness' is less clear to us. If your taste runs to a fully hopped BITTER this is one of the best around. Like many rich ESB offerings this one can over-power subtle foods because this amounts to an alcoholic herbal (hops) tea. Carbonation, color, and head make for a superb presentation in fine glassware. Belk's ESB is distinct from Fuller's ESB but both are 5's to us.   

Avery 14'er E.S.B.
RATING: 4.0
Boulder, Colorado
Here's a coppery brew named for the beautiful, complex, and big peaks in Colorado, notably the 14K footers. Under my nature-simulating compact tubes it actually pours a dark gold and not the copper you may find in some dark, dank pub somewhere. Maybe. The head is near white, as rocky as well...near the brewery, and the aroma is sweet hops with some malt. It sips tart, not giving it's true character up with the first sip or two, especially if very highly chilled. Eventually you get more bitter hops and a nice framework of refined, semi-sweet malts. It's not as bitter as many with the ESB initials but is more drinkable and less of an acquired taste for us Americans perhaps. I called in a friend with a E.S.B.A. degree and he found his favorite style both too weak and not bitter enough to deserve the name. But what of it "as it" without regard to claimed style? (my usual theme). "A decent golden ale with a malty tendency" and so I judged it with that and my own thoughts of it, mis-classified or not. There are couple of off notes to be sensed on occasion but it's sweet and yummy overall; even if not a champion in this class or any other.          
                                       
Fuller's Extra Special Bitter (ESB)
RATING: 5.0
London, England
Since 1845 Fuller, Smith, and Turner of London PLC have made superior ales. Curiously our US labels never use the word 'bitter' - I suppose it would frighten off some Americans from spending $7-10. Bitter means quality to them, something far different to the uneducated this side the pond. Color is dark semi-cloudy amber with an firm head. Flavor is glorious with rich carmel tones and sweetly-balanced perfection. It is fruity and candy-filled and bitter all at once. There is no better British ale sold in the USA. It will impress your friends. Among bottled offerings, this remains a standard or benchmark for ESBs so always use it in your trials.           

Redhook ESB Ale
RATING: 4.5
Seattle, Washington
Though described as deep amber the color is light, bright amber. The ivory head is long-lived and finely foamed. It is richly hopped with a suitable bitterness befitting the named style. It finishes dry and bitter as expected. They also microfilter it instead of pasteurizing it to preserve quality. While some other (namely the renowned Fuller's ESB) are a bit richer, this is enjoyable at slightly lower price. The finish on your first bottle may seem thinner than desired. But that 'hops carryover' after a few bottles (we drank many each) helps later on. Reviewers noted 'wonderful true bitter quality and lovely in its    glowing color' and 'very well polished formula and easily one of the better American bitter ales I've sampled this year'. Try against Fuller's ESB.

Rogue Imperial Younger's Special Bitter
RATING: 5.0
Newport, Oregon
I'll have to admit not trying this beer until 2009 because the bottles in local shops looked nearly identical to their Imperial Porter save for the lettering. Simply missed it! These grand ceramic vessels, and vessels is a good word for them because our grandchildren can still use them, are wonderful items once the sting of the $16.00 price (March 2009) goes away. There is a white bottled version with a horse and red red X's but I don't know if that's a new or gold bottle style. 2-row and crystal malts are used. Hops are Willamette, Kent Golding, and Amarillo. Before I proceed, be sure not to confuse this with Young's Ale of the UK who make a world famous bitter in a 3.7% trim. This lovely beverage reveals itself as a lovely golden-amber, the head large and quite golden-cream for any style of ale. It's falsely weak at first in the sense of Darjeeling being a weak tea until it comes over you in waves. The hops are refined, subtle in that good, restrained way. Malt support is decent. It gets more crisp and bitter with repeated sips - and any ESB is made for repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat again until the sidewalk becomes the horizon! There's not a sweet or caramel moment in this brew, the spicing of the bitter hops the reason for it's existance and our joy.

One must dismiss the impressive vessel for even crappy beers come in nice bottles for very nice sums. There are rich supportive notes in choir, grapefruit tartness beyond any doubt, grass, faint grain on the earthy side, faint floral hops (adding to the more assertive bitter ones), and not as much EtOH as the 7.4% analysis would suggest. I found it best very cold and crisp, bitterness persisting but two friends though things towards 50 deg. F. made the malt balance more to their liking. This is a very praiseworthy product, with or without the fine dark container, a true delight and honorable American copy of an old UK style. The BEST AMERICAN ESB IN 2009 and giving Mother England a run for her money.

Sierra Nevada Early Spring Beer (ESB) 2009
RATING: 4.5
Chico, California
This unfiltered SN offering is said to combine the best of English-style ESB and the West Coast Style. Two-row Pale, Crystal, and English Maris Otter malts are used with English Challenger hops. Some East Kent Goldings is used in the finishing bit. Dry hopping includes the two previously named vaireties along with US Challenger, US Goldings, and Crystal. It pours light-medium amber, a simple cream head, and a hoppy nose. The flavor is rich hops, bitter to perfection and what SN is all about and has always been about. It's dry delicious but not as extreme as when served very cold. Out of my sixpack I held back a single bottle to drink warm the next day. It was a very different, less hoppy, and even slightly sweeter beer. It is hop-dominant at all temps and bitter in the very most precious, sacred sense of that often misapplied word. This is one fun-bitter, giddy-bitter, hop-a-holic heaven but not quite Imperial IPA-insane when warming a bit. IPA fans will still probably respect it. They gave us a bit of sweetness and special malt to round it out. SN is frequently brilliant with these little recipe variations and formula twists. The whole US and Brit Challenger thing is a nice, rare touch.

Rounding things out is what great breweries do and SN is highly skilled among them. I had to pay $8.99 per six (January 2009) and that was getting close to offensive. Some criticize SN for doing twelve hundred variations of their legendary Pale Ale and that is not as bad an idea or easy a performance as it sounds. It's worked for...[name any Fortune 500 company, Oscar winner or famous designer here]. ESB 2009 is a "good take" as they say in Hollywood; a valuable, new, refreshing, view of old territory but twisted just enough to thrill. It's also a year-dated seasonal so they are giving us a fun thing to keep us buying and asking and debating and buying and loving them and buying.
                                         
Stoudt's Scarlet Lady Ale (ESB)
RATING: 4.5
Adamstown, Pennsylvania
The impressive 765ml bottle comes with an art deco-like label showing a flirting orange-locked lass with enough symbology to fill a Master's thesis. She's drinking white foam from a horn, has poppies and hop vines in her hair, and her creamy cleavage    has a banner saying 'Since 1987'. And we suppose a scarlet lady could in fact be extra specially bitter in real life. Of all the ESB (Extra Special Bitters) we know this is surely the most reddish-amber (copper).

The color matches the hair of the label lady. The head is long-lasting or at least until I cannot see the lace on cream. Stop laughing! It has hopped flavor but is far more sweet than so many others under the ESB name. One reviewer said it was 'the most painless ESB known'. Others thought it was just a well-rounded hoppy amber; competant, misnamed. Seductive and full she is. I revisited this label in 12 ouncers in 2009 and found it even more of an taste challenge. There is bitterness at mid note and so the ESB moniker should never be removed. It faux-weak. Yes, you do get a very gentle, soft-as-a-kitten finish here (unlike nearly all UK ESB products) but there is lots of malt in that de-clawed end. There's enough early astringency, harshness, and hoppy thump in mid passages to please me at least. An ESB that finishes smooth and painless is perhaps not to everyone's taste. I don't always like to cringe at lingering bitterness and here we have a nice alternative to the usual wincing. As with most bitter ales, the more your consume, bottle for bottle, the more bitter at gets from bud saturation.

Sweetwater Motor Boat Ale
RATING: 4.5
Atlanta, Georgia
"Our version of a tantilizing ESBBBBBBBBBBBB!" shows a motor boat trying to catch a rather colorful (rainbow trout?) fish doing a back-first move of Olympic skill. From the seasonal "Catch and Release Series", this bright amber beer has an enormous beige head of long duration. It's a fine pale ale sort of thing with just enough bitterness to qualify it authentic-like for an ESB merit badge. There's stiff, sharp hops loaded to the gills. Sorry. No more fish analogies. Sweetwater is a promising...no...actually succeeding and respected small microbrewery from a city known for beverages that rule the world. Let's all hope they outlive that nasty, dark syrup crap that rots your brain, teeth, and is a good way to clean rust off your bumper. This superior, true beverage is captivating and pleasant, not a world-beater but neither would you hesitate to pour one for the most jaded visitor from the old country.
                                            
Weyerbacher ESB Ale
RATING: 4.5
Easton, Pennsylvania
This ESB is bright pumpkin amber with a medium ivory head of good duration.  Flavor is rich with hops of smooth bitterness and enough malt to please. It is bitter in the good way but not a rich, impressive feast the way Fuller's ESB  (our ESB standard) is. One reviewer thought it needed to be just a bit sweeter while a few though it was a 5 bottler all the way. This Lehigh Valley product does have potential to be one of Northeast finests hoppy amber ales. It is a fine, brain-nourishing beer for test tasting with other amber microbrews as few are quite as  hop-saturated. Very well worth your consideration.       

ALE - FRUITED AND FLAVORED

I have decided to put the Pumpkin and spiced brews with Oktoberfest types as they are usually marketed around October/Halloween in the US and pretty serve as the same marketing theme. You will also get similar effects as these ales from fruit and flavored lagers.

Alllagash Fluxus (Ale Brewed with Yarrow)
RATING: 4.0
Portland, Maine
Yarrow? Is this a tribute to Peter, Paul, and Mary?  I do love yarrow and think it's cool in cough drops and wine too. I almost did a Ph.D. on garden yarrows but found a better-paying-than-a-professor computer job more tempting. It's a good genus, flavorful at times, very ancient in uses, and colorful in flowers. Not sure I like the name of this name as it suggests Acid Reflux among other things. ABV is an even 10%. Allagash's motto is ALWAYS AN ADVENTURE. That is both good and scary in the beer world. For them, it's almost always a calling card towards excellence. This label in their Tribute Series means they give a buck a bottle towards good local organizations and that might be good or scary too. (I'm never too sure what philanthropist-brewers do with their money and what they are imposing with my coin towards puppies, children, fetuses, politicians, farms, schools, parks, and wetlands). Color is ultra-hazy in very rich gold, even having an orangish-golden sheen at time under full fluorescent light. Big head, good lace, ending soon enough for a corked product. As I suspected, one needs to drink nearly the entire bottle to get the BUDSAT (taste bud saturation) of the special ingredient. It adds some herbal charm to what is a slightly sweet hoppy product with a half token of maltiness. Having grown lots of yarrow plants and crushed more than few to fit in an electron microcope, I have some idea where yarrow begins and hops ends. I think. Yarrow can be bitter but it's not usual floral so much as medicinal and earthy. I think the label shows Achillea millefolium, the common yarrow with it's fine ferny foliage. I don't think you'd guess it had yarrow unless told but you might expect a curious mix of hop varieties? Maybe. It is not a liquid cough-drop but it is a tad sweet in the finish. I would have left it more dry and bitter by one or two notches. A liquid herbal cough-drop loaded full of corn syrup is hardly a standout and a sweetish beer with such ingredients is apt to be misunderstood and underappreciated too. I would have turned up the yarrow and maybe added another nice herb or two from the North American flora to make this an even richer, complex, herbal brew. I appreciate the effort but it's a one-time purchase in this trim.



Allagash Fluxus Ale
RATING: 4.5
Portland, Maine
My first reaction to the name Fluxus is that it is something I coughed up last week at 3AM after downing a few too many 650 and 750ml micro-ales and assorted other things now in my recycle bin. There was a tin of Hormel Chili and box of bridge mix in there for good measure - or not. Fortunately, our Portland friends have presented a dictionary style def of fluxus on the label next to some golden sweet potato leaves. More about them leaves later. Fluxus - noun, Latin, 1. a flowing or flow. 2. continuous change, passage, or movement. That tells me maybe...dynamic, shifting flavor notes. Oh yes, it is brewed with sweet 'tators and black pepper in a 8.3% ABV recipe. OK....

The robust, corked bottle shows ample flaky yeast in the bottle unless they be givin' us some mini swee-tator chips down in thar. It pours a rich golden-amber, yeast flakes in tow, the head very tall, very open, and ivory. I think I get a pepper-bread malt nose but then again I knew which spice to expect. Seing as sweet potatoes are produced in my home state of NC more than in any US state (LA is #2) and certainly ME (and I've met a couple of dudes who came to Raleigh to get their Ph.D. in sweet potato genetics), Allagash may have scooped all our southern US microbreweries in using their yummy tuber before they thought of it. Did they succeed? Yes and no. I love the sweet, earthy and malty effect this recipe produces and the pepper is only faint but any tuber needs a bit of spicing to give it balance and punch. Fluxus is classicially a nice Belgoid ale, rich and moderate in alcohol, and made "own our" with a popular American crop - and I mean American in collective North and South American sense. The added species originated in Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula or perhaps Venezuela about 2500BC. This is stuff of our history, our very old history. There is an abrupt, really lovely smoothness in the finish that a complex root like sweet potato can easily deliver with all it's diverse cocktail of good, tasty stuff. If sweet potato pies warm the heart, heal the soul, mend faster than a gallon of Rocky Road, and charm the tastebuds shouldn't a liquid form be made to do something of the same? Next time I want a truly Southern take on the tuber taken dark, sweeter, and drenched in buttery malts. Good first effort.


Big Boss The BIG Operator Ale with Raspberries
RATING: 3.5
Raleigh, North Carolina
This very dark ale pours positively opaque brown yet I cannot quite consider it a fruit porter. The rich malts certainly has more of a stout-like comfort effect, being rich and smooth. There is berry-like flavor in the finish but you'd be stumped all day unless having seen the label first. Berry is there and too faint to be appreciate though most beer reviewers will despise the opposite extreme of "berries with ale". I'm really not sure what they were trying to accomplish here, so unclear is the fruit flavoring. One may easily mistake the slight tartness as the normal approach to brewing and nothing more. I'm nearly inclined to think my bottle was labeled in error; so doubtful is this additive and it's ultimate value in adding to the product.

Bison Organic Honey Basil
RATING: 4.0
Ukiah, California
This amber ale is given a slight (and I mean appropriately faint) bit of sweetness from honey and a touch of spice from basil. If I had not known about the basil, I'd have guessed it some modern, very nippy forms of hops taken to a strong level. I am not yearning for a Oregano Hefe-weizen or craving a Thyme Porter anytime soon but there certainly is a whole cupboard full of good plants worth using in brews.  Coriander and anise certainly have a long history of being brewed in kettles though the more savory, earthy herbs are yet to find much of a home. I would tend to think a combination of fruit and herbal flavors might be the best path, such as a lemon-thyme flavor using actual lemon thyme rather than a true citrus product. There are many flavors of basil too besides the stock, Italian basil flavor and those might be explored in some worthy combination. This is a nice product but neither stunning or extensively memorable.

BrewDog Dogma
RATING: 4.5
Frasersbrough, Scotland
Let's say for the sake of argument I went insane some day, sold everything, and bet the retirement farm and Hot Wheels collection on an eccentric brewing venture. Okay, maybe not that odd a thought. If I said I was brewing a 7.8% ale flavored with kola nuts, poppy seeds, and guarana, my friends would be over shortly and have me try on a nice new white suit with the aid of the nice big men who are just here dear to help you. Hey! These sleeves have long white ribbons on the ends! This is not a suit!

BrewDog has gotten rabies (and is hereby in full froth) or maybe just a really neat creative bug and made an ale for the aforementioned odd ingredients and a bit of Scottish heather honey. "Innovative and enigmatic" as they call it is polite speak for people who are functional crazies and have a job and money to prove it. This "conspiracy of transcontinental ingredients" was arrived at while musing over some 17th century philosophical papers - in other words like most everything made by Pabst (LOL). Hops include Bramling Cross and Amarillo while the malts are Marris Otter Extra Pale, Caramelt, roasted barley, Dark Krystal, and Munich. "This beer is not cool. You may think it is, but that is just a beautiful lie fabricated by clowns and gypsies" says their website. New suits with ribbons await them.

The red on black label has a small book written on it - one I could not read with a box of reading glasses and six microscopes. The beer pours a rich amber, the head large, foam-laden, and antique ivory in color. Nose is herbal like no other ale I've sniffed, ever, anytime. First sip suggests a subtle ale, made with fine ingredients but very restrained in the style of many UK breweries who would rather kick their dogs their assault a customer's tastebuds with anything really strong. I do notice the honey and it is never overdone or far from an add-on; it's a very superb use of this ingredient. I cannot say much for the other ingredients except the entire package works and works very neatly. Call back the Loony Bin Brigade (as I imagine they must be named in Scotland) for those mad dogs have a few years of raising revenue for the Crown and delighting brew drinkers the world over. Splendid work and git oot yer face on this broth. Now go see to Black Donald for he's a' havin' a time with all 'da dang shellycoats bathin' themselves in the kettles.


Brewery Hill Raspberry Red
RATING: 4.0
Wilkes-Barre, Pennsylvania
Many of the raspberry beers on the market are made with a wheat base. This and a few others are ale-based. Real juice and 'natural flavors' are what gives this one the flavor and a pale amber color with red tints. The head is very small but lasts a bit. They describe the flavor as 'delicate' and that is appropriate and fortunate. Naked Aspen and Oregon both over-indulged in those mysterious natural flavors. This brew is restrained and has better juice qual- ity too. Reviewers noted 'Ale and berry flavors are about equal though I still do not see the appeal in beer cooler theme' and 'highly drinkable...a respect- able outcome in a group of beers that so often go wrong'. The BERRY ALES from Rogue (Rogue-n-Berry) and Star are the most worthy comparisons to date.

The Bruery 2 Turtle Doves (2009)
RATING: 4.0
Placentia, California
This second annual incarnation of the a dark flavored Belgian ale comes in thick 750 mils with a cap and not a cork. The opacity and head resemble a good stout. Nicely roasted malts are available in spades, augmented with cocoa nibs and toasted pecans. The ABV is whopping 12% and the total presentation is all the following things: potent, heavy, and for slow sipping only. It would blend well for it's almost a dark ale concentrate. No mild dove , weak, shy and faux-wounded here. In other words, it's a turtle dove bred to a rabid falcon assisted with 4-yard bionic wings and atomic malt arsenal of an F-22 Raptor. The fundamental medium here is of a ethanol-drenched, vaguely spices abbey-style brown and so it is not Belgianoid in name only. (perhaps for our next edition of Brewbase Reviews there will be a Belgianoid category for more and more things are coming up that way). I wanted to like this concoction but found it excessive maybe for it's own sake. I put it away for awhile and a second opinion. I sipped a bit more again and found it still overbearing. The merit of a beer is no more found in only it's simple boldness but in it's overall enjoyability and in the later aspect I found this a bit wanting. I liked it in such small doses I could not really bear to praise it.

Carolina Strawberry Ale
RATING: 4.5
Mooresville, North Carolina
I was very suspicious when this sixpack appeared at the Kroger in Cary NC in November 2008. The whole red label was like a soda label from one of those gourmet soda companies. Perhaps they were being honest as many fruit ales as more "soda beer" than true ale. This is NOT their earlier Strawberry Blonde formula by the way. I was surprised and wrong, one of those delightful discoveries I find just once every week or two in beer tasting. Fragaria x ananassa is a major spring crop in NC, accounting for over 20 mill a year though just a smidge compared to FL and CA. Most strawberry ales are good or mid-rate ales flavored with a vague fruity tartness that may or not be recognizable as to the genus. Others are sweet things flavored with artificial berry flavor and rate as absolute crap - neither a good berry soda nor a bearable beer. These folks got it right, the berries very clear and sharp but the ale background is clear and not always in the background in fact. The fine-tuning could be done 212 ways I suppose and this formula is nearly where it should be. It's not too tart nor too sweet nor is anything really wrong with it. Their website quotes a Robin P. from Pittsburgh PA who said "I have never believed in mixing fruit and beer, but after trying your Strawberry Ale, I can't get enough". I can get enough of this but if did the same with our state's blueberries and raspberries, we'd have much more praise to point in their direction. If strawberry ale has never been real, good, or even palatable to your before give this one a try. 

Dogfish Head Aprihop
RATING: 5.0
Milton, Delaware
Once you remove the lovely copper-coated cap, the bright golden-amber product comes up with a thin ivory head and no lace to speak of. Having tried and hated dozens of fruit ales, one is immediately impressed with the fact that this one is based on a potent IPA, ie. very hoppy ale. There is no generic, formulaic, sweet ale trash that was "fruited up" with some frozen juice from a restaurant supply company. No, here one gets "real apricots" and a flavor that confirms it from first sip to loving last. It goes from apricot tartness in mid-presentation to a rather less fruity, solid finish, hops jumping about throughout but having no solo of it's own really. Apricot and it is surely real is truly the star and rich bitter hops the very superb choral background to use a theatre or opera analogy. It is not apricot with nothing. It is apricot plus hops more than hops tarted up with apricot. This approach and sincere approach works and works very well. A lesser brewery might not have pulled this philosophy off. Howls all around for dogfish - or should that be a tip of the dorsal fin.

Dogfish Head Chateau Jiahu
RATING: 5.0
Milton, Delaware
Name me an ale brewed with grape concentrate and hawthorn fruit and you'd pretty much better name this one. "9000 year old Chateau Jiahu stands apart as the most ancient, chemically-arrested alcoholic beverage in the world". Microanalysis of old Chinese (Jiahu) pottery in the Yellow River region determined that a recipe with rice flakes, honey, muscat grapes, barley malt, chrysanthemum flowers, and hawthorn fruit was in order. Dogfish Head is not only making some unusual recipes but some very impressive and supremely memorable ones too. The pale-skinned Chinese lady with a bare back on the label is impressive and memorable - more fine art from this firm - art equal to winemakers and then some! When was the last time your brewer consulted a Ph.D. archeologist before developing a production model and marketing plan?

This eccentric nectar pours in dark gold, shaded to amber, the head near white but thinnish for me. The nose is frankly that of over-sweetened, bubblegum-laden crap beer. Sorry but true. But the first sip loads you with dozens of things - explosive diversity like a Celestial Seasonings label - tartness proceeds to rich malts as wide and deep as China from New York. There are complex fruit esters, some sweet, others less so, and this explains the superficial "bubblegum" note in the aroma. There are bananas with honey, grapey malt, floral musk, mums with apricot, faint ginger spice with healing roasted barley, light Belgian Saison, and anything with everything. Some reviewers felt this more of an alcoholic herbal tea which any of us might create with a bag of something and a splash of Grey Goose. It's too potpourri for many traditionalists but I for one like it and apparently people in China must have. Forget about the Chicoms and remember the rich glory of that land when people were free and culture free to run. It seems we may have lost some of beer's diverse, botanical charm by insisting on the Teutonic Holy Four and narrowing our options for these last few centuries in North America. It so often takes an Asian influence to make us Euro-Americans free to appreciate new-ancient wonders. This recipe is peculiarly novel, exciting and singular, and at the same time as radical as it is historical. Sound but unsound, something new and yet something quite old. Two criticisms that might hold sway with you or yours: 1) the lack of overpowering hops offends some who insist all beers must have this aspect and 2) excessive sweetness. Regardless, Chateau Jiahu informs us about history, not our chosen history but REAL HISTORY and does so with uncomprising, vivid flair. I frankly hope more Ph.D.'s inflluence brews in the future and I surely wish Dogfish Head to be making them.

First Coast Mango
RATING: 3.5
Wilmington, North Carolina/Fernandina Beach, Florida
First Coast has named their beers Mango, Beach, and Bikini. They are hung from their lids and sold three to a pack costing around $3.50. Mango is made with ale naturally flavored with mango flavor. The packaging is bright, festive, and very tropical. The two places where it is made know something about partying anyhow. The color is medium yellow with a lasting near white head. The scent is of fruit juice. The flavor is fruity and much to our collective surprise - very dry! The underlying ale seems to be okay though modest in flavor. Some reviewers complained it was a little bitter at times - and not the hops kind we adore. It does have a substantial quality and unique flavor to it but is very hard to rate. There is something about it worth studying.

Frederick Hempen Ale
RATING: 4.0
Frederick, Maryland
This medium amber-brown ale is brewed with hemp seeds (yes real Cannabis). The labels are bordered in green pointed pot leaves though they are considerably toned down - fogged out and not realistically pointed to be exact. I shocked a co-worker the day saying I bought a "bit of Cannabis" during my lunch hour. Eyebrows were raised until I produced the bar of peppermint-scented hemp oil soap that was on sale at Kroger! The brewers claim the additive adds a creamy head and an herbal flavor. No doubt sales are enhanced as well. Investigating that flavor one would be hard pressed to tell it from a good ordinary hops dose and indeed this might be compared to a lighter IPA. But are hemp seeds a worthy new ingredient to revolutionize the microbrew industry? Probably not. This may be regarded as mainly a novelty - though a very well made one at that. 

Great Divide Wild Raspberry Ale
RATING: 4.0
Denver, Colorado
Hundreds of pounds of red and black raspberries were used in each batch. The Dunns also remind us to 'insist on real fruit in your ale' - good advice in this age when even top brewhouse names are using 'natural flavorings'. The brew here is amber-red with a pinkish-cream head and the authentic scent of the real berry thing. It is truly Rubus flavored though some of us thought it was overdone - not a wine cooler this time but perhaps an 'ale smoothie'. Others were pleased with a mild tartness and some decent malt notes coming through. Even a few big burly guys admitted to liking it. Yet for those with a taste for a good berry lambic it does not exactly come home with the gold medals. A fine product - but do we need it?

Heather Alba Scots Pine Ale
RATING: 4.5
Alloa, Scotland
My grab at the beer market was based on a label not seen before but my usual joy at tasking another Scotch Ale. Wrong! It is from Scotland and an ale. This 11.2 oz (deductions!) bottle is 7.5% ABV (points replaced). It is based on an old Viking custom of using spruce and pine sprigs to flavor beverages including ales. This practice continued in Scotland until the late 19th century and now we have it again. Bruce Williams of Heather Ale makes this product in way done before by many others. Captain Cook is one famousname known to have used spruce ale as it handled long voyages. Their label proclaims "Scots Pine" (and it is not Scottish Pine either) and the curious Latin name of Pinus Alba. Being something of a conifer nut (two books and a Masters thesis so far), I knew that Pinus alba means nothing and that the noble Scots Pine is actually Pinus sylvestris and has been since Linneaus in 1753. Their point with Alba was unclear and there is no chance this is a white or wit ale from its' rich amber color. I lagter learned that Alba (Latin for white) is gaelic for Scotland. It pours luminous amber, slightly cloudy like a rich lemonade, strong lace at first, a medium to small head in cream. With the proclaimed additive it was expective "resinous hops" or "piney finish". Instead we get a very brilliant (in all meanings of this word) ale that is a revelation and revolution all in one. Wow, wow, and quad wow! I cannot place most of these flavor in traditional terms but find them all amazing. Berries are certainly there in bunches, malt on the foundation, very little hops as I know them, caramel sugar supporting, and lazy citrus too. Their is certainly complex coniferous chemistry in the works too but not in the bold nor overt way. I was something at a loss for another aspect of the flavor until I read duffextracold on the Beer Advocate: "smells way too much like red twizzlers [a fake licorice brand], with a hint of bitterness". He nailed it. 

Then the finish. Sad that. The carbonation and a bit too much EtOH make things a bit of course and crazy strong. This stuff won a Gold at the 1998 World Beer Championship. It is complex and pleasantly sweet in a the style of a quality candy which needs not too much sugar to impress. One I genuinely admire and adore this approach, the whole "history revisited" concept, and the startling early flavors. The finish drives me crazy for a good thing is ruined. I'd redo it with more spicy charm and less fake fruit. It impresses but there's too much fake licorice fruit in the overall presentation.

Kid Notorious Apricot Ale
RATING: 5.0
Waynesville, North Carolina
The Smoky Mountain Brewery of Waynesville, North Carolina makes this unique and well-refined ale with apricots brewed in. Color is a cloudy, shall we say apricot shade of orange - redder than most amber ales. The head is surprisingly dark tan (give the fluid color), is small, but lasts. The carbonation is quite enthusiastic. Flavor is very natural and it reminds one of the very best type of berry ales; that is, the real fruit ones. Hops and malt seem well-balanced with the fruit; complementing but not overshadowing the apricot. Reviewers marked that 'even if FRUIT ALES are not your thing this one has appeal' and 'no lambic to be sure but very drinkable and well crafted...partial nectar qual- ity...big thumbs up'. This is truly a must try for its uniqueness AND character.

Left Hand Good Juju Beer Brewed with Ginger
RATING: 4.0
Longmont, Colorado
Here's a label to make even the most appreciative of Grateful Dead fans adoring. The psychodelic chartreuse, white, olive, and red label has a million flowers and one large skull with one snake and one salamander swiming in the eyesockets. Ju-ju comes from the West African culture but is apparently a version of the French joujou (literally "toy"), meaning a supernatural object or fetish - either for good or for evil. The brew comes at us in richest gold, the head rocky, cream, and of medium duration and height. Ginger or some nippy vegetable is apparent in the aroma. The ABV is listed at 4% which I found disappointing but perhaps they are aiming at the widest possible micro-market this time around. There seems to be a lack of hops and what malty base you get is as subdued as a Deadhead with a pocket full of curiously missing Quaaludes. The ginger gives a nip to the finish, a quality and good one and this intensifies as you consume more ounces and bottles. This seems to be a miminalist beer in many respects and I have no fault with that theory in this age when everyone has labels just about "more" regardless of the consequence. It is light, faintly sweet at times, not weak light mind you, just faint malts of quality dancing quickly now and then with ginger and then it all going quiet for a note or twelve. I would not confuse the subtlties here with weakness and cheapness for there is more at work here. This "refreshing frivolity" has a quality of malting that approaches buttery, smoothness and in fact some reviewers think they do in fact taste butter! I should be very cold in general to give zest but even warmed a bit (as was my first bottle) the malt and ginger holds up nicely. It is sure to be controversial in any informed session of beer tasting and Left Hand is not new at messing with our heads.

Lost Coast Raspberry Brown Ale
RATING: 4.0
Eureka, California
This glowing brownish-amber ale comes with a short-lived head and a nose with the essence of generic fruit and malt. Chocolate and caramel malts round out the main flavor positions, giving a mid-strength dosing that is neither too bold nor too soft for the raspberry flavoring. It is very faintly tart, joyously not oversugared, and is respectable as a fruit-flavored ale instead of the horrible alternatives - beer soda, malty wine cooler, etc. I found it very refreshing and enjoyable quite cold, not a brew for room temps by any means. It is decent though not earth-shattering. On the whole, Wynkoop Solstice Summer (Belgian Raspberry) Ale would be my pick for a domestic raspberry ale.

Melbourn Brothers Apricot
RATING: 4.5
Stamford, Lincolnshire, England
This brew is amber golden with a small head and rich fruity aroma. Looks almost like a glass of apricot juice with some carbonation added. It is a bit more tart than their Strawberry version (below) and in most opinions not so refined. It might have used a shade more sweetness or probably a bit less of the juice. The splendid balance of beer and fruit seen in the Strawberry has gone slightly astray here. We are talking $6.00 (Spring 2000) for a 500ml bottle so the standards ought to be high. We'll admit that some of us today are influenced by apricot nectars which are artificially sugared - perhaps prior to purification with vodka! But if one compares this to pure apricot juice blended to an ale (it's a nice experiment) or a Peche (peach) lambic one could imagine they have options for improvement.

Melbourn Brothers Strawberry
RATING: 5.0
Stamford, Lincolnshire, England
Melbourn Brothers brewery was founded in 1825 and rebuilt in 1876. Strawberry juice is added to the normal hops-malt-water-yeast quartet, producing a 500ml product that cost us $5.99 (Spring 2000). That is lambric price and more in a few cases. Color is golden amber with a big, bubbly head and strong lace. An authentic strawberry aroma overwhelms you at first pour. The balance between tartness and sweetness is just right. Unlike some American attempts at fruit wheats or fruit ales the essential flavors of a good strong beer are equally matched to the fruit juice. In other words, the quality was there before the juice went in. But unlike a lambic there is not the powerful acidity and yeast complexity - that is both good and bad. While slightly less rich than most berry lambics it is very well crafted and equally satisfying to most of us in the review. The price is more than justified. For a genuine beer with strawberry flavor this is one of the top choices in the world. A very good beer for a special occasion with friends - or that special gal who is not ordinarily a beer lover. This was my favorite new fruit ale in 1999. I have not found it since.

Dogfish Head Midas Touch Handcrafted Ancient Ale
RATING: 4.0
Milton, Delaware
Dogfish makes some very fine, curious beers, a few dogs, but most are respectable hits. This formula is very different for it's made with barley, honey, white muscat grapes, and saffron. Say what!!!  This 9% ABV selection is colored like any golden ale, no strong nose, and slow lace. One does not get the grape clarity as with the SA Longshot Grape Pale Ale but yet you known something is there. I've loved saffron as a flower and cooking ingredient since childhood and I must say that it's contribution is fairly slight (perhaps a good choice) and only is detectable after drenching the tonque with a full bottle or two. You certainly would not guess grapes or saffron even if you life depended on it in some sadistic game of beer tasting and analysis to the death. It's okay, differentish, not great nor memorable, no way near worth the $3.49 a small bottle that Whole Foods inflicted on the research budget.

Dogfish Head Theobroma
RATING:  4.5
Milton, Delaware
The dark, subtle Mayan sun-clock on the label features a sort of big-eyed princess, apparently munching something from a bowl. It's cute and sort of like Polly Pocket as an ancient deity. These Dogfish folks are getting famous for artful liquids and artful labels and we can use much more of both. To say this ale is flavored is an understatement. Ancho chillies, ground annetto, and honey compliment the main ingredient - Theobroma. Make that Theobroma cacao. Think Godiva, Swiss Miss, and Ghirardelli and maybe that sweet town in Pennsylvania full of factories and ferris wheels. This 9.4% beverage present itself in dark gold with an ivory head. Lace is endless. When was the last time a beer flavored with chocolate and named for such was less than a dark brown? Is this a white chocolate thing or something new called liquid golden chocolate?

Remember that Dogfish markets themselves as "off-centered ales for off-centered people" and has their typesetter going nuts raising letters up and down on that sentence. Askinosie cocoa nibs and cocoa powder are added to the recipe along with the forementioned peppers, annetto, and honey. At first and second note points, I get something very rich and deep, especially for such a golden ale. The depth of the faint cocoa replaces traditinal, darkening malt in one sense. The finish intensifies (especially after 4-5 sips) to reveal the ancho addition. After most of the bottle, the ancho faded to a minor flavor and let new things happen - all very, very good. Iron Chef Bobby Flay would have made this for the GABF; though probably with deep-fried drinking straw formed from a tube of chives and lemon grass foam. The Chairman checks his purple satin pocket square and smiles-nods in approval.

Theobroma means "food of the gods" and it was once reserved for offerings to unseen gods, human royalty, and the wealthy at one time. There was no Snickers machine for the working man in those days nor could such a sweaty fellow buy his lady fine Lindt truffles at the gas station on the way home from work! I like this beer and it provided me and friends with endless opportunities for productive discussions. It is not a cocoa-rich beer but is in fact one which uses those rich, dark flavors to replace malt to some extent. Mixing chilies and chocolate actually predates it's blending with nuts, coconut, peanut butter, and even milk. This is a fine product, not as cocoa-laden as it might be but a good step in the right direction. How 'bout an Imperial Theobroma?!?!

New Belgium (Lips of Faith Series) Eric's Ale
RATING: 4.0
Fort Collins, Colorado
This is a wood-aged ale and said to be a sour fruit ale for those who neither like sour ales nor fruit ales. It had better be something special for an ordinary bomber tagged me for $9.99 (June 2010). ABV is 7% and it pours rich amber-gold, suggesting the real peach juice in every bit. The head was thin but ample for a time. The first sip is off-putting but once you get acclimitzed to the sour approach (which is true of most anything edible and sour) you begin to explore some wonderful notes. Rather than being peach wine cooler simple, this sour adaption is very workable. The ale framework harmonizes well with the juice and yet the neither is favored in many of the sips. The aging make it more nuanced and stratified. Over the years, I have had some good peach wines (not cheap stuff either) and this is generally more enjoyable though I no time was I was really bowled over. Here is one of the beers in the "well made - change of pace" classes but it may not change your world unless you live entirely for fruit ales as the primary reason for your happiness in life. I might have gone another way with a bit of cherry which associates well with peach and added some malt in the finish. Fun and tart and miles above most any fruited beer in your supermarket. There is a good niche to fill if this Sour Fruit Oak-Aged Ale submarket is developed in the US in a way the Peche lambics have developed in Europe. This is more approachable than many peach lambics and I rather think an American approach will be interesting to enjoy in future years. In other words, great first effort but do experimenting.

Pete's Wicked Mardi Gras (Ginger)
RATING 3.5
St. Paul MN
This February seasonal appeared here in January and is a mid-strength golden ale with a ginger flavoring. The tapestry-like colorful label received very high marks. The flavor was something else. As some of us have made a steady diet of Old Raleigh Honey Ginger Wheat microbrew the simple and shallow nature of this product was suddenly apparent. The $5.99-6.99 price (1990's) was more than exceptable if the rarer Raleigh product is not available. No doubt the Mardi Gras revelers would not notice if the beer was flavored with swamp water but we'd like to think the first few should taste worldclass. Pete has had a few misses (though many hits) of late and we hope this market- driven seasonal is not a trend when it comes to quality.

Pete's Wicked Strawberry Blonde
RATING: 3.5
St. Paul. Minnesota
Pete's newest adventure is a golden ale flavored lightly with natural strawberry flavors. It is ale first with the flavor being subtle - it is no beer cooler by any means. It must be near freezing or it can be strange and boring at once. The berry flavor while intended to be thin is realistic. Pete decided to be very 'PC' as the label shows but three ship hands - with a name like this we can think of a dozen more fun pictures (some G-rated too)! Reviewers had widely divergent opinions from 'neither a good ale nor a good fruit beer...waste of time' to 'high praise for being tempered and skillful in the use of flavors... just right'. However most felt it was a 'TOO' beer - Try Once Only. There are certainly many better fruit beers - strawberry lambics for one. Pete's Wicked Winter Brew (rare after January) is far more sophisticated and spritely. Nice collectible painted bottle. Nice experience but you could overlook it.

SLO Brewing Blueberry Ale
RATING: 5.0 
New Ulm. Minnesota
Whereas SLO refers to San Luis Obispo this arrives from New Ulm, MN that source of a few decent microbrews. Natural blueberry juice (should there be any other kind) imparts no color (somehow?) of its own. Aroma is unmistakable however. The rich golden color (maybe a touch cloudy) is topped by a sizeable head of near cream color. Flavor is sweet, genuinely of the Vaccinium sort, and not tart like so many berry beers. Many of reviewers felt it was one of the more successful berry-based beers from the US and far preferrable to those hideous raspberry wheat things that inflict our shelves. Even the head persists as long as you can bear to leave outside your body. It is both refreshing and charming glass after glass. And it doesn't leave your lips purple. This is one of the best true-berry ales in my memory.

Rogue's Cran-n-Cherry Ale
RATING: 4.0
Newport, Oregon
Samuel Adams makes a Cranberry Wheat (not a true lambic) but this one is based on ale with Pacman yeast. Saaz hops and the two real juices are icluded. We have no idea what 'free range coastal water' is but we hope it has nothing to do with 'free range chickens'. Color is amber-tinged red. The head is indeed 'purplish' though our resident colorist says its more 'ivory mauve'. First response is that is 'sweet tart' (like those silly candies) but not a lambic sort of acid. The hops and malts GREATLY moderate the fruit flavor and round it out well. Reviewers say 'you know this is real beer...fruits HELP rather than monopolize the presentation' and 'I did not really identify the fruits too well...maybe that is good'. We like to call it a FRUIT-N-MALT ALE actually.

Rogue Juniper Pale Ale
RATING: 4.5
Newport, Oregon
This 34 IBU ale in 650ml brown bottles is made with Pacman yeast and Northwest Harrington, Crystal, Triumph, Maier Munich, and C-15 malts. The hops are Styrian Golding and Amarillo varieties. Juniper berries are used for flavoring. Most of you know that juniper berries (technically they are not fruit but flesh strobili or cones) are the traditional flavoring of gin; though a great manner other spices contribute to the modern recipes. The label shows something like a red cedar, the country's most common Juniperus but the traditional gin is made with Common juniper (Juniperus communis). It pours bright yellow ("saffron" they call it at Rogue), good lace, and a medium duration cream head. First sip is that of rich, earthy malts, slightly sweet in the mid notes but quickly becoming bitter and dry in the finish. There is something more than hops in the flavor and the strobulus of the juniper is apparently it. It is not a gin-like flavor to me. It won 2006 and 2007 World Beer Championships with Gold medals and quite a few other awards have come to it. It's a remarkably refreshing ale, a nice change of place, and despite the pale color it's one that malt connisseurs will surely respect. With more sips, the junipery-ness comes out more as a strong spicy-herb in effect and many online reviews condemn it for this additive's taste alone. I like it and respect Rogue's nerve to go in yet another creative direction.

Rogue's Rogue-n-Berry
RATING: 4.0 
Newport, Oregon
Oregon Brewing Co. of Newport OR makes this unique brew using 'Marion berries' (no not the Mayor) added to an ale. While one expects berries in a Belgian lambic this recipe and Pete's Wicked Winter Brew (raspberries) prove to be a different style - sweet, fruity, less tart. Lambics are based on wheat while this is ale-derived. This style is sometimes called FRUIT BEER or BERRY BEER and puts all berry wine coolers to shame. The bright color is more red than amber and is superb is classware of all kinds. As an experi- ment it is pleasant and highly drinkable IF VERY COLD but

Rogue's Somer Orange Honey Ale
RATING: 4.0
Newport, Oregon
One would think a bottle full of yeast and flavored with spices and orange peel would an attempt to make a Belgian ale of some sort. Not so here. "This unfiltered ale is medium bodied with no harsh bitterness". Two row malts, Crystal and Rogue Farm Willamette hops, coriander, orange peel, chamomile, honey, wheat, oats, and Pacman yeast conspire to make this interesting, truly medium-strength ale - very suitable as a super cold summer...make that Somer pleaser. I'm guessing the athletically clad lady painted on the bottle who looks like Martha Stewart's young, less cute sister must be "Somer". That's probably not fair to the real girl, assuming they had one in mind, for if I were painted on anything...it would not look half pretty. Never mind.

First pour to me was generic golden ale honeyed up to an offensive level. The remaining pours got me a dose of that sweet, fruity yeast; which looks like the milky way galaxy hidden in a bottle and suitable for use in the movie MIB III. The yeast adds much, balances much, and gives the other flavors some stability and centering that gives it a true Rogue quality and their usual smart level of appeal. It's cloudy gold if that was clear before. Your average golden Belgian or a US clone of it would have far too much EtOH to be a chilly summer cooling beer. By the way, some folks susceptable to ragweed and other daisy family pollen allergies are allergic to chamomile and it's inclusion here should be noted for such people. 

Samuel Adams LongShot Grape Pale Ale
RATING: 4.0
The SA LongShots have been fun, mostly hits and a couple of close misses. This 2007 Winner from Lili Hess of Hawaii, a SA employee is thankfully not the color of Grape Knee High nor does it have a faint violet tint under light. That test is passed. It's amber, well-carbonatd, and the head is respectable strong. A medium-rich pale ale got the addition of natural grape flavor (not juice I must note) and maple syrup. Her inspiration was not a purple or Concord-style grape but the fresh, crisp, "white" (green) variety. That's a nice clarification. That would be champagne territory then added with the sticky byproduct of Acer saccharum., dripped slowly, boiled long, and bottled. I did not like it from the fridge at first and found it's weakness a flaw and yet the sweetness not overboard. The grape was not reaching me. Very cold from the freezer for a short period made this a bit more impressive, not great but interesting. "Interesting" is enough in this crowed beer market where any fool can brew from 200 world-class recipes on the web with a little practice and patience. It's new, a little different, and now I move on. Why did they bother? Sales, sales, sales - and that can hinge entirely on fancy names and novelty value. They still delivered a decent brew even if it did not make us beg for more grape ales. 

Samuel Smith's Organic Raspberry Ale
RATING: (not rated as an ale)
Tadcaster, N. Yorkshire, England
One normally expects a raspberry ale from the other Samuel place, that one in Boston and not the Old Country. One cannot hardly say no to British razzle-brees added to a legendary brewery's stuff. They also do a cherry juice infusion. Even the lovely foam has a pastel lavender-rose sheen to it, suggesting good things...perhaps or not. Fruit ales are a minefield and not a few great breweries have gotten their figurative extremities (not to mention their berry clusters) blow off over the years in the review process. This one pours a curious dark amber-red and smells of genuine fruit at least. My first reaction is overload, a raspberry broth tinged with ale perhaps? It is not soda sweet but neither is it lambic sour. It does have the fruit density of a lambic and in the final analysis I am going to label this a Raspberry Cider and not a true fruited ale. It is a very pleasant and agreeable product, neither fruited ale, wine cooler, lambic, nor raspberry malt beverage. Perhaps they tried to learn from other firms where the fruit flavor was too subtle and much secondary to the ale notes, sometimes conflicting with strong hops or not paired well to the local malts. I think they turned up all the digital knobs very high and turned a potential berry ale into a berry cider. I like it but cannot call it a real ale by any allowance of my conscience. I love a good Brit cider (and they make many of the finest ones) and will consider this for my table but only in that classification.

Shelton Brothers Pickled Santa English XMas Ale
RATING: 3.5
Oxfordshire, England
Brewed with spice, this 6% ABV is a Christmas special and I noticed there was a choice of cute Santa caps for this one single label. It was brewed by Beer Counters Ltd. for Shelton. Cinnamon, nutmeg, and coriander at used so it reminds me of some recent Halloween, Pumpkinoid offerings. The color is amber-gold, the head ivory, fluffy, and long. Their claimed "ruddy chestnut" color is laughable to anyone whose ever seen a chestnut of any species. It has a rich bready flavor of a good English ale but the finish is neither bitter nor sweet - yet smooth in the lightly spiced presentation. This product made exclusively for the US market is no hasty, cheap gimmick - it's close enough to real ale even if not as bitter as my real ale fans say they had expected. The finish gets a bit weak at times and I wish the spices were taken up one gear. It's what I expected, wanted, and a smidge less. A couple notches up and we have a good theme and 4 bottles. Must be chilled for near room temp it will get wimpy on you.

Spanish Peaks Honey Raspberry Ale
RATING: 3.0
LaCrosse, Wisconsin
The chance of me liking or even respecting in the morning any beer with "honey" in then name is about 231 to 1; against. Here is comes..."light bodied amber ale". Let's admit failure up front and on the top label - a kind of truth in advertising that any real beer lover will notice. The fruit is "raspberry extract" (okay?) and the honey is from...dare I say..."wildflowers". What? As opposed to all the honey made from greenhouse flowers and florist's fields or city parks? It pours medium amber, the head mid-duration and cream in shade . The flavor is big raspberry, a good copy at least of the real thing, modestly sweet (which I had not expected), and yet some supporting malts for quality. The finish trails off into places I care not to describe and you would neither care to read or experience for yourself. Very chilly it is a bit better but I evaluate with at least 5 degrees off the optimum which is a real life situation for every brew, especially at a fine meal. The malty infrastructure is nice but it's going to feel like a raspberry soda (made with real fruit) augmented with malt and no hops for most of us. I don't hate it as it's very pleasant at some points before the finish. Still, I'm not about fruit juice flavored with beer. If you are, give it a go and don't pay microbrew prices. I do not support fruit anything that obscures or mitigates a need for brewing skill. Points removed.

Smuttynose Hanami Ale
RATING:  3.5
Portsmouth, New Hampshire
The label is unusual with a little picnic scene, two Japanese dolls, sushi as miniature food, and a sushi sudare (bamboo mat for rolling sushi) as their blanket. Cute, double cute. Girlie girls will reach for this bottle. Hanami refers to the spring tradition of cherry blossom viewing - hence this is a spring seasonal. Nice art, great colors. The brew pours rich amber, slightly hazy, the head big and ivory. It is comes off medium bodied from the start and from their it gets neither better nor worse. Tartness increases and one gets semi-sweet malt  some oddish form of hops; the later being Styrian Golding. The tartness comes from cherry juice (fitting for it's name) even though the spring cherry viewing species are only remotely related to our edible/juicing kind. I would have guessed cherry unless told - and that speaks volumes good and bad - very subtle and yet too subtle. ABV is just 4.5%. Malts used include Pils, Carabell, Aromatic, and Carafa. I would turn up the cherry two or three more notches and copy some of highly-rated cherry ales, wheats, and lagers as a model for determining strength of the juide.

Star Pineapple Ale
RATING: 4.5
Portland, Oregon
The only pineapple beer we had before was a nice lambic. This ale self-labeled as 'A Vacation in a Bottle' was quite different. Cascade and Columbus hops plus fresh pineapple are used. Color is very light amber and a fruity aroma is impossible to miss. Big foamy near-white head. Unlike the lambic the 'pineapple flavor gets a bit lost in the hop-malt balance but that is okay... pineapple is a part of the whole flavor palate and not the biggest part at all'. The label describes a 'smooth citrus finish' and this is true. The beer is unique and very good so our recommendation is very positive. Some skilled beer tasters said 'a more worthy fruit additive than nearly all berry beers tried this year' and 'skillful intergration of many components'.

Steamship Raspberry Ale
RATING: 4.0 
Norfolk, Virginia
This cloudy golden beverage has a persistant near white head and some pleasant yeast dregs. The 'all malt' ale is brewed with raspberries and gives it a rather understated fruit flavor. It is NOT one of the those berry-cooler sort of tastes but instead presents itself to be beer first and fruit-flavored second. That said it was hard for some people to name the fruit when given a so-called blind taste test. It also proved a bit tart for some folks but those used to the regular fare of fruit-brewed ales felt it was among the better ones. We still maintain that Rogue-n-Berry is perhaps still the best of this lot. Yet at the $5.00 price we paid for this it is surely a fine enough value and would be welcome at almost any table. The style is yet to be perfected.

Tommyknocker Imperial Nut Brown Ale Brewed with Pure Maple Syrup
RATING: 4.0
Idaho Springs, Colorado
For you geo-curious folks (and I confess to be one of y'all), Idaho Springs is on 1-70 west of Denver and another town well known for golden brew...Golden CO. You'd probably pass by this town and brewery on your way from Denver to Vail or Breckenridge. Now the shock. I paid $3.99 in distant NC for a 650ml bottle with the word "Imperial" on it, a special (pricey) additive, and a whopping 9.5%. This is either the best deal in microbrews since Idaho Springs ran out of gold or it's a faux deal. More explanation is needed of the name even if you've seen the Stephen King book and/or movie . Tommyknockers were mischievious (oft evil) elves who slipped into 1800's mining camps, stealing stuff and generally causing chaos. They are, in short, the Welsh-Cornish version of Irish leprechauns. 

Now for the beer....It pours very dark reddish-brown, as dark as some porters in fact, the head is nearly impossible to make large. Nose is sweet malt, faintly so. When chilled, it begins EXCEEDINGLY tart, soon crystal and choco malts coming to the fore and then the maple sweetening up the whole affair for a more easy finish. European and American hops are used. The alcohol is strong in some passages, annoying once or twice, but again calmed down by the boiled down Acer saccharum to a nice level. It is said to be a bigger, bolder version of their Maple Nut Brown Ale and having never seen that one, I must judge this with reference to other brands. It is a superb value in a strong, flavorful beer but the harsh tart start and ethanol burn is off-putting in SOME places - though the better, sweeter, smoother sips are rather more refined. I think things rendered "Imperial" in a beer style but not an imperial sword to the throat. Perhaps it merely needs to be served on the warmer side, blended down a fraction, as the tart bits are worse when ordinary cold for a brown ale. The 2007 GABF Bronze Medal may say I am wrong but I wonder what temp they tasted at?

Tommyknockers Maple Nut Brown Ale
RATING: 4.5
Idaho Springs, Colorado
The high ABV Imperial version of this product but less than it might have been but this common label (which comes in their popular Trail Mix sampler), is more direct and on message. It pours medium brown with a lasting tan head. Very pretty beer in a glass. Pure syrup of the familiar tree is used with ample persuasion for a real candy beer that could not be consumed in any real quantity. It is something of the sipping port or sherry of the beer world. I think the maple-ness or Acerocity is perhaps just a single notch too high and I'd really like the syrup supporting the malt rather than dominating it. As with the Imperial version, chocolate malts with nutty flavors are used and give a nice supporting base note that is unwavering. Treat it like a good porter and drink a small glass for fun. 

Tommyknocker TundraBeary Ale
RATING: 4.5
Idaho Springs, Colorado
The pretty scenic label features a rather large, fuzzy cinnamon "beary" dining on native berries with lots of green meadows and Colorado-style, snowy peaks in the background. By the way, these guys don't generally share their produce patches even if very cute. The brewmasters admit to blueberries and raspberries; confessing "other fruit juices" in the process. One usually gets either Vaccinium or Rubus with an ale - seldom both. Color is cloudy amber, a near white head of some duration, and an estery aroma over weak malt. The balance of berries and hops is much in favor of the fleshy, dark-colored fruits and in this regard some are going to think it a Beer Cooler on the first and usually wrong first approach. In early sips (and NEVER LATER) it seems simple and coolerish but enough malt in the backbone arises to make those wild berries harmonize with full freshness and delight.

Lots of fruited ales try to mix hops and berry and come up with all sorts of tart-bitter-estery-sweet blends - many of them very conflicted, discordant, and lacking unity in all respects. I don't think traditional hops varieties are made to mix with berries. Yeasty-fruity wheat beers with fruit is quite another thing. But pairing malt with berries as performed here is a more successful approach. I did not notice this at first but it is very valuable determination. I will warn you of one thing - TundraBeary is shallow and perhaps too coolerish in the first few sips - even the first entire bottle. I did three 12's as is my custom so the saturation of flavors and the shift of temperatures from cold to less cold would influence me towards fairness. As I say often these days, now decades into beer reviews: "if you find a questionable recipes and flavors from an otherwise proven, high quality brewery at first presentation...sip and sip on...there is often a wiser, later conclusion to be found". Reality tends to dawn with more exposure. Ethanol rarely improves my opinions and oft to the contrary; I tend to get more ballistic and mean with a buzz; and god help you if your label is full of ugly flying dogs in some annoying color. When a second or third bottle transfuses and doses me towards discernment, I should learn from that experience. We need time and volume in this field of beer tasting. Tiny little paper cups and even one oddly cooled bottle at some Fair is no measure of a label! Our final conclusions will become more accurate with more ounces consumed and vapors processed. Beer tasting should be a slow, lasting, totally encompassing experience and not one limited by money or hours available. Work late, spend lavishly, and write from the heart as all the organs, nodules, and glands inform our skulls. 

TundraBeary is more of an impressive Malty-Berry Ale while also being a multi-berry blend! It resonated with me more with volume and my loyal tastebuds by mid pour of a second bottle. I almost feel myself as a grumpy, malty-brown bear browsing for sweet treats but finding it here in a vessel as cinnamon as me.

Unibroue Ephemere White Ale with Apple Juice, Coriander, and Curacao
RATING: 4.5
Chambly, Quebec, Canada
I poured this the first time and was utterly shocked. Did I get a sour, spoiled bottle? Probably not, the fruitiness was real, sweet enough and very tart. Then I spyed the fairy-like nymph on the label toughing a giant green apple (an Garden of Eden reference?) and the whole apple thing clicked in my brain. (Okay, I have my slow moments but please read on...). Color is bright, lightish yellow, the lace unceasing and casually timed. The sour aroma is off-putting so just don't sniff the stuff and QUICKLY move on to the part where the liquid goes into a human mouth. The first sniff of the 5.5% beverage is very tart, then Granny Smith apple (the exact cultivar they employ), and then some faint spices said to include coriander. Sweetness is moderate and kept in check. High marks for avoiding that deep pit. Curacao? A beer flavored with a tiny Carribean country? Them must be some big ole shiny copper vats in Chambly thar! Actually the "curacao" name here also refers to liqueur flavored with dried Laraha citrus peels (resembling the Valentia orange but more bitter) from the country of the same name. Thank god they didn't use the ugly blue-tinged curacao stuff in a bottle - that would be some ugly fruit beer - or not. I'd have made it a little green like Granny - a very pleasant color in fact. 

Maybe on St. Patricks or Curacao Independence Day. Curacao Flag Day is July 2nd - another good excuse now for a long, beer-drenched week. Party on! This stuff is almost a cider-brew and I mean that in a very positive way. There are good apple beers and many bad ones. This is a great one and a genuine winner. They just need to get rid of that sour, swampy aroma and it's a 5 bottle for sure. The website says to serve it with Cheddar cheese, pork, or onion soup. I tried the first and yes the acids seems to meld very well. 

Well's Banana Bread Ale
RATING: 4.0
Bedford, England
There are a bunch of good fruit ales...sorry. Let's start over. Using mineral water and "fairtrade" bananas (which I think means the employees are paid 1 US cent more a week) is blended with barley malts, fresh hops, and "peppery spice". It's 5.2% ABV and and poured aroma is enough to drive a barrel of monkeys insane. The concept comes from the warming quality of a good banana nut bread which is hardly beaten anywhere by anything in the baking world if you ask me. It is further extended by the history that beer was in ancient times "liquid bread" that was a way to preserve carbs over time because of the ethanol in it. The tint is that of slightly amberized gold with a big off white head. The flavor is "spot on" as our English counsins say, not some tarted up ale with banana extract tossed in at the final hour NOR is it weak real bananas because real fruit, fairtrade or otherwise, is quite expensive to add to anything. One detects faint spicing at some points but the flavor notes are irregular are a few positions, hollow and empty in the finish owning to it's surprising dry nature. One might have ruined banana bread beer twelve ways and the most obvious is making it overly sweet like banana-ale soda. I think they may have erred on the dry side for it has metallic, uneven aspects to the flavor that a little more sugar might have covered. At the risk of sounding arrogant, I'd advise them to sugar it up just a notch, maybe two, and clean up those awkward, dry flavor notes. The concept is a very 'peeling one and deserves another go towards excellence.

Widmer Brothers Prickly Pear Braggot Ale
RATING: 4.0
Portland, Oregon
Usually it's colorful foiling, a cork and wire job, a very thick brown bottle, numbered edition stamps, or just simply the price that sets special brews apart from the ordinary stuff. In this case it's a simple cardboard box with a label that holds this bottle that sets it apart and makes a bit curious. ABV 10%. Check! Honey and prickly pear (Opuntia cactus) juice. Check and double check! Now being a botanist I've eaten prickly pear juice from the pads and fruit both and even had it fried with peppers of all insane, delightful things. Walk into the desert...free food and instant hydration. Then there is that Braggot thing, a difficult topic in bars perhaps when talking about stuff with pricks and honey. Braggot (sometimes pronounced like "bracket") dates from the 14th century and is related to mead, being a blend of such with traditional beer, spices, and herbs. Braggot is usually more hoppy and malty than mead but spiced mead is not uncommon these day. There were forms with and without hops for spicing in early times. It can be 6-13% ABV so this 10% is mid strength actually. 

In terms of modern brewing it is something of a Strong Honey Ale and not much more than that. Curious, fun, nicely brewed, but don't expect any top medals. I'm pretty sure Chaucer, the dude who told us that "love is blind", told no tales about adding a cactus to honey. He did say that "by nature, men love newfangledness" and prickly pear ale becoming popular would make him right for the 13th million time in the history of product marketing. Our curiosity and boredom will sell the first hundred cases anyhow. Color is dark gold, tinged amber, head short-lived and near white. The honey is needed for the Opuntia's raw vegetable nature is on the bitter side here, not unexpected to me, but savory enough to need sweetenin' up as we say in the South. There are many edible species (100+, 10 common), many ways to process the PP juice, varieties of various colors, and hence different flavors - raw chlorophyll, citrus, watermelon, honeydew melon, and fresh strawberry being commonly cited. I have no idea what kind, quality, or amount they used here but surely it was not the concentrated, red pigmented stuff.  Prickly Pear drinks are usually mid to dark red. There are interludes in this brew that are pure honey ale, faintly mead-like but still more malty and hopped, but overall we have something a tad different from not straying too far from my comfort zone. There is a rumor that prickly pear juice soothes hangovers (and treasts everything from cancer to diabetes) and that is not established by anyone I can cite with authority - and surely this brew would not have enough concentration to do any of that to much effect. The real genius of using this member of cactus family in beer is that it has a long history of use in Margaritas and what is good for mixed drinks will eventually find it's way into the brewer's kettle and bottling machine. Bring me that Melon-Appletini Wheat Beer and make it fast!

Wynkoop Solstice Summer (Belgian Raspberry)
RATING: 4.5
Denver, Colorado
Color as expected is reddish amber with a smallish yet enduring head tinted of rose cream. The raspberry flavor is mightily authentic and presents itself with just the right measure of sweetness - this being an art not all raspberry ale and wheat brewers have perfected. They do dare to use the name 'Belgian' four times on the label, making a comparison with aged, bottle fermented lambics a near necessity. Frankly this cannot compare for overall complexity - even though one must recall that berry lambics are rather tart. This is certainly one of the top berry-flavored beers from our country and only a tiny minority considered it fit for the wine cooler crowd. If fruit-flavored beers usually offend you give this one a long sip.

ALE - BELGIAN STYLE - BROWN, AMBER, OR RED

Abita Abbey Ale (Double)
RATING: 4.0
Abita Springs, Louisiana
Even the Abita folks are in the Belgian game now and none to soon. I'm sure we'll have a Bud Tripel next week; tinted with only food-coloring, sparse malt, and raw sugar of some horrible crude variety. Anyhow, this stuff pours a bright reddish-amber, faintly cloudy, no real visible yeast in the bottle. The head is golden-beige and the lace will last until the entire glass evaporates in a year's time - or if you prefer: as long as it takes to build an abbey clock tower. The painted bottle in gold, cream, and verdant vines is very pretty; collectible even. Their goal was "rapurous perfection", a good theme for an abbey-based thing and secondly to give 25 cents to St. Joseph's Abbey, presumably the one near their town(?). Sweet malt flavors are medium complex, very drinkable and highly carbonated even with the 8.0% ABV punch. Tartness overcomes the sweetness in some mid and later points but most will be fairly sweet. I found it only fruity in terms of dark, malt-like fruits, pear perhaps and then a bit of citrus here and there. Spicing is on the light-moderate side, apparently and supportive but not overwhelming. These 650ml bottles are quite affordable as are most Abita offerings and their "liquid bread" is a very nice value. Next review...Bruges Blackened Crawfish Casserole. It would only be fair.

D'Achouffe McChouffe Artisanal Belgian Brown Ale
RATING: 5.0
Ardennes Mts, Belgium
The colorful painted gnomes (or are they Ardennes Fairies?) on the label mark these D'Achouffe products from your usual paper labels with flying dogs, jumping idots, and grinning cats. The color is a rich amber brown and one gets a depth of meritorious and elaborate, earthy malts impresses at first sip. This is surely what a perfect Belgian Brown needs to be plus or minus more EtOH and spice. Frankly, I might ramp this one up on both fronts for a special seasonal but I'd never change this recipe and execution anytime in the next three centuries. The head is bigger than needed, the hue a very presentable amber-brown, the aroma of sweet malt. Pils-type malts are used and it's spiced with English Golding and Saaz hops. The double fermentation with a dash of added yeast is well worth the effort. It came tightly capped and not corked. It's just 8% ABV and I find this lower, non-intrusive dosing to be just right in this ideal arrangement of refined brewing flavors. The interplay of spicing, hops, and judiciously sweet malt is a balance I find remarkable and rare from anyone; including a good number of very old Belgian abbeys and farmhouse factories. Study this when you want to find what malty joy can and should be in a dark brown beer. Study it lads, study it long and full. Drink ten cases if you need to. For all the silly, kaleidoscopic gnomes in their checkered drawers, this is one very serious ale. Sometimes a brew is so perfect it will appeal to us snooty pseudo-gurus wearing 2000 labels over our Saks belt buckle AND ALSO the dude who snorts out "never did like dem dark ferin beers none" and silently reviews this with a toothless smile and a lightbulb going off in his mullitt-draped skull. Quality appeals all around the planet and over all the classes, experience levels, and ages. Here's a refined ale that is immediately likeable, accessible, and transforming of all our opinions of the brewing arts. It's plum without tasting like plums and ditto for peachy perfect.

Affligem Dobbel Abbey Beer
RATING: 4.0 
Brouweij De Smedt of Belgium export this DARK Abbey brew in $5.00 25.4 oz. Champagne-style bottles. This 'Belgian Burgundy' dates from 1074 AD. The label says you can pour yeast into your glass for a 'nuttier taste'. Or not. Color is dark amber with lasting head and lace. It is very malty but not nearly so rich as the color and word 'Dobbel' suggest. Affligem is not immediately captivating but it will surely please. Starts semi-sweet but ends a bit dry.

Andelot Cuvee Angelique Dubbel Belgian Ale
RATING: 3.0
Lochristi, Belgium
This brewery has a lower price point along with their plastic corks and lower ABV - 7% for a double is more than low. The hue is amber-red, faintly cloudy but variable with the pour angle, and the tenacous head a light beige. Sweet malt is the first nose and the first sip as well, very clearly oversugared for many people's sensibilities and that includes your faithful author. This is a what I might term a beer soda with a smidge of extra depth - just a mite's leg's worth of depth. There are some vague dusky fruit notes, plum for sure, all these melded to malt, quickly overcome by excessive sweetness, a bit of mulled wine even, still too simple and mono-malti-dimensional to score higher.

They need more ethanal for sure, 9% at a min, more malt layering or richer fruit esters at first sip. This is tarted-up, over-sweetened malt beer and not a credit to their national tradition in my opinion. I'd serve it to a blonde...err...blond angel with dubbel qualifications at my local bar and she'd probably thank me in unspeakable ways aftering asking me for another kiwi-cranberry wine cooler for the road. I make three hand signals to my bud Phil behind the bar and he loads the bottle with his proven, secret, Cranberry-Lime Panty Peeler (19.5% ABV) instead. I never think of this beer again except during a lucid patch in 2028 when the the new miracle Alzie medcaps kick in. I smile like a goofy idiot from the memory for six straight hours and call in my nurse Angelique for a refresher on that GPS-guided, sponge bath thing. "More to the right dear" as I slip a Pres. B.J. Clinton Commemorative Gold Piece into her green pocket and she hands me a real Double Belgian Ale from Kasteel.

Anker Gouden Carolus D'Or Belgian Ale 2007
RATING: 4.5
Mechelen, Belgium
This "Grand Cru of the Emperor" is brewed once a year on the 24th of February to commemorate the birthday of King Charles The Fifth - Carolus being a form of the name Charles. The pour is rich reddish-brown, a mahogany glow in fact, with virtually no lace but a rocky head of long duration and beige color. The nose is that of tempty malts, likely sweet. First presentation comes off quickly tart then rapidly opening up into very sweet, layered malts of distinct qualities all around. Domestic US breweries who have resorted to making malt sodas would do well to turn here for how sugar and malt can be abundant without being crude, simple, and a sticky nightmare. We'd not expect 10% ABV with a domestic sweet, malty microbrew ale but they'd VERY WELL to copy the rest of the multi-dimensional, intricate notes give sufficient ingredients and brew time. I rather like it a bit cold though malty Belgian browns usually get served a bit on the warm side. The ethanol is covert and the brown sugar-drenched flavors are endlessly engaging. The fruit notes are dark and faint (raisens and plums I figure) and I'd have given it a perfect rating if those were better developed and layered throughout the middle approaches. Hops are not there to any degree and I think all the spicy nip comes from either spices or our beloved intoxicating molecule. Happy Birthday Charles and I'll be sure to celebrate you and your label again and soon.

Avery The Reverend Belgian-Style Quadrupel Ale
RATING: 5.0
Boulder, Colorado
The Sect of the Boulderites have gone forth into their hewn abbey and made a supremely righteous ale. While most Belgian abbey brewers are more likely to be friars than Reverends, the folks at Avery claim this was God's Eighth Day creation; "strong-willed, assertive, and pure of heart". One pour of this dark amber brew suggests an apricot nectar in appearance. That suggestion is good for it is truly a nectar of fruit and malt as if such a pomological creation existed in the Garden of Eden. The short-lived head is my only negative on this label and I generally do not deduct points for that element and have not here. Fruit reminds me of subtle cherries (despite the apricot color suggestion that will not leave my brain) and their website mentions currants and molasses. I think we have mild cloves or some generic Flemish spicing in any case. The supernaturally omnipotent 10% ABV gives a dryness to what is otherwise a well-sweetened broth, ample with ripe fruit, and not much hops; of which the later is said to the Styrian Goldings cultivar.

It's 1.093 OG, 10 IBU's, and solid in mouthfeel. Rev-Quad was actually created as a tribute to the life of their Sales Manager, Tom Boogaard's grandfather, a real Rev. of the Epioscopal persuasion. I'm certainly of this Rev's persuasion and I found the 750 mil's to be far for adequate for my cold thirst tonight. The brew's "heart of candy sugar" is true to the style, especially of the XXXX strength, but it's not sloppy sweet nor sticky nor ugly. These Quad things are like top-fuel dragsters (to change the analogy on ya); awesome power and force are worthless if not flawlesly directed, steered with experience, kept from blowing things apart, and put on a straight line to the specific goal and always in bounds. This is a ride-on-the-rails perfect run. The malts are nicely balanced and they've employed two-row, Cara 8, Cara 20, Caramel 15L, Caramel 40L, and Belgian Special B to give it a rounded quality. It can cellar for up to 4 years. I will drown my sorrows in this far too small bottle before going onto to my chosen evening stouts. I should have bought two or three more. One often says that of Avery's big bottles and that is a testimony to their excellence, both long known and always expected in the new labels. Holy Boulder...we have perfection coming from the choir; harmony and glory all around; majesty like Handel's Messiah to 'rouse one on a cold, otherwise boring night. And the congregation said...Amen!!!!!

Barbar Winter Bok
RATING: 5.0
Quennast, Belgium
We were confused for a minute the "winter bok" tag and the notes it was brewed with coriander, orange peel, and spices. That sounds very much like....a...Belgian ale. Sure enough it is. At 8% ABV  this dark amber-brown creation has a head bigger than all of Texas and Belgium combined. The label confesses to natural honey, bitter orange, wheat, and both Hallertau and Styrian hops added as well.  It's got a nice kick, not from an over abundance of alcohol as many dark belgians but from tartness, sweetness, malt, and hops giving a series of coordinated caresses over a few microseconds. Wow! This is very special stuff for not having a cork or hardware. It is far more fruity, not just citrusy, than expected and one can enjoy this stuff very cold in summer just as easily as a wheat beer with lemon. It is crisp and self-cleansing enough to make a good summer brew. Highest marks in a class that is get too busy these days and increasingly hard to grade for what college coaches called "widespread parity".

The Bruery Black Orchard™ Belgian Style Ale
RATING: 4.0
Placentia, California
The big, brown, capped bottles are just $8 a piece for 750ml. The ABV is 5.7% and the color very opaque brown - more in the porter and stout style of coloring. The lace is good at first, the head tan, and medium-long. It is a bit fizzy and as the color suggested to my first instinct, this is very much of a lighly spiced porter with a dash of citrus and wheat for fun. The malt, unfortunately overcomes the spice and citrus so any attempt at developing a world-leading Belgian Porter Ale has gone unrealized. It is bottle-conditioned and bottle-fermented which is remarkable at this price point. At one point on the label they admit it's a Black Wheat Ale but German dark wheat flavor is missing. Perhaps the mission is muddled in the murk of the beverage and needs a long rethink.

La Caracole Nostrodomus Belgian Brown Ale
RATING: 4.0
Flamignoul, Belgium
The glorious, shining reddish-brown color is what you notice first. Thus it looks smashing in a clear glass of some size. The 9% ABV is moderate and Saaz hops are used in the recipe. It is of the so-called "Wallonian Brown Ale" style and is a rather dry malty feast overall. Some reviews say 9.5% but my bottle was clearly 9% on inspection of the script with a lens. There is variable fruit (more in later or strong pours), nothing as rich as some reviewers pretend to sniff, a bit of nippy licorice in the finish, good chocolate malting (moderate though), and an almost wine-like character. This glowing ale is not cloudy in the yeast and no sediment can be seen at all. It won a Gold Medal in 2002 World Beer Championships and that's quite an honor.

As to the Nostrodomus connection, the name is revealed by fantasy characters on the label, one with a telescope viewing another with a snail-shaped helmet. Guess the artist was about 7 bottles deep when he painted this label! The spicing is mostly from the hops which is not true of all strong Belgian ales and the lace is quite limited for the style as well. It's more much on red side than most of them. They recommend serving at 55 deg. F. and that is about right in my tests from cold to room temp. It is simple on one level but as you sip more of it, longer in fact, at various temps, some of those subtle fruit, roasted malt, and licorice notes add up and you realize first impressions were not everything. Still I think a beer where you have to strain your tastebuds and use labware to assure the perfect temp and humidity is a beer not accessible enough for a high rating. There are 11% ales with less of an alcohol thump than this one and had they spiced it and hopped it two notches more, we'd not be deducting points. It is a slow sipping beer for comtemplating one's future but I'm sorry to say this one is not likely in mine - given the number of more enjoyable bottles calling my name. By the way, the real Nostrodomus was an apothecary so this would have been a perfect opportunity to do a strange but delicious herbal ale.

Castle Kasteel Donker
RATING: 5.0
Vanhonsebrouck, Belgium
I usually ream out breweries for selling 11.2 mini-bottles for in that little bit of savings these ounce-cheaters gain millions from us fools about the drinking world. My only exception to this anger is a very, very good, strong Belgian bear whose quality of ethanol makes the quantity a moot point. This sumptuous drink is 11% ABV and pours a medium-dark amber-brown. The head arises quickly in the Belgian traditional and remains a nice froathy light tan mass for some time. It is not bottle conditioned and so lace is lacking but conditioning in traditionally capped 11.2 mini bottles shipped across the oceans is a risky thing. First sip nearly shocked me for it was a blend of very tart and sweet malt to such excess and density I almost think it was a concentrate for making beer from a tap! It was like drinking "ale syrup" and to maltheads like myself that is a very nice thing. The unyielding inundation of the malted barley will put some folks off; not us happy maltheads who like malt like our alcohol in very generous, surplus doses. Folks talk about Trippel ales but if anyone is really making a Quad this would be something to compare to it. Let me not rest on the phrase "ale syrup" too long for it is not overly sweet in this concentration and this separates it from the ordinary brewers with a passion for excess without reserve and some restraint. It is overload but not overkill, more than enough in little bottles and quiet sips after a fine dinner.

De Konick Ale
RATING: 4.0
Antwerp, Belgium
This amber-shaded ale is top-formented [sic] and made using Saaz hops. The ususual bulging neck, 11.2 ounce bottles hold a pale amber fluid with good lace and a firm head. We classify it with the regular amber ales in this file as it has more in common with them than the special, spiced Belgian brown or amber abbey ales. This $10.99 six pack (March 2000) is nicely flavored and it benefits from the enthusiastic carbonation. Reviewers noted 'lots of class....and fragrant Saaz appeal' and '[a] commendable even if not particularly special effort'. Despite it's price tag it is a agreeable experience and for crown (cap) collectors it is a nice find.

De Koninck Winter Koninck
RATING: 4.0
Antwerp, Belgium
De Koninck has been in operation since 1833 and it shows in this 6.5% product. It comes in a hue of cloudy dark amber with perpetual lace and a tan, smallish head. It is pleasant malt feast, moderate as the style goes, very refined still but not as much as I'd wish. As a summer brown ale, it would do well, served icy cold and appealing. Served in winter and likely in a warm room it does not fare as well as some of the competition might in my opinion. It is darkest of several products they make, including an 8% Tripel which I think is a much finer product.

Dogfish Head Red and White Ale
RATING: 3.0
Milton, Delaware
The 750ml, brown, thickly capped bottles resemble a Belgian but upper label is often damaged or crimped in my experience. David Larned and Sarah Lamb's painting is superb on the main label and this kind of refined artwork is welcome in this age of magenta flying crap and punk faux-art which makes me want to puke before sipping a single note. and  This "malt beverage brewed with coriander and orange peel" gets the addition of something called "Oregon Pinot noir juice concentrate"; not a wine but presumably a very neat grape juice. The blend of "white beer" and "red wine" gets to 10% ABV with aging on oak staves. It showed up in my area in January 2009. Color is clear amber, head cream and lasting, the lace nothing to speak of. It is a decent malty ale, not great or remarkable, the alcohol and tart notes from wherever are distracting and never unfied. High ABV soup of moderate malt, little hops, and an unproven additive is not going to make a prosperous ale, Belgianoid or otherwise Their claimed "refreshing citrus" is there early on but the stodgy malts wrap up those bright themes with haste. The tartness is ragged and wraps uncomfortably about the ethanol molecole in later notes. The question of note is this: can I or anyone tell there's good red wine added? The answer is no. I cannot tell it's wine but there is a bit of fruit. I can tell something different and that thing is neither integrated or necessary. The second question is this: should they have used yeast to give fruit notes and not relied on wine? I think yes, for the fruit is there, slightly, but it's not effective in this form; perhaps too deep and unreachable with all the other stuff going on. The claimed "robust complexity of a bold wine" is more rubbish than robust if I can be frank with ya'll.  I sipped and sipped, temps varied, and over the day consumed all the bottle and found nothing redeeming by this approach. Malt with yeasty wealth, floating and flying about like 1200 untethored astronauts or a lava lamp gone natural would have been more effective I think. I'm not anything close to a brewing expert to deconstruct the failure. My experience to date is that beer-wine hybrids have not worked well in my lab or from anyone elses. It's a nice concept, comforting to the brain, ignored over the last 10 centuries it seems, and save for one thick German Hefe-weizen I poured into a forgotten German white wine in 1999 (and whose proportion I've failed to repeat), such blends are hopeless. Perhaps beer needs yeast more than grape juice to produce fruit; and I cannot get the shadowed, mild juice to impress over all the malt and hops. Wine is a very delicate thing and even a weak beer can overpower it. I will blend beer endlessly among their disparate styles and do so often this month and year. Beer-wine blends on not on my schedule to try anytime soon. 

Dubuisson Freres Scaldis Noel
RATING: 4.5
Pipaix, Belgium
The bottle is "tarted up" as our British friends say, a tiny 8.48 ounce thing with a big, bright blue foil sash covered in bright white stars. A pretty red, blue, and white Christimas scene from the home town shows on the main label. It has been called the "Bush de Noel" formula but perhaps the Hillaryites and Obamists among us would not buy something so named before November or December 2008. This special Christmas is brewed for the year-ending season to "delight  the most demanding connoisseur". First of all, what are the European always inventing smaller bottles to give us less of their chosen, blessed broth? I mean besides the whole money and profit thing! I am more lenient on the Belgians because their stingy bottles of beer tend to be potent and flavorful enough to compensate. This stuff is a whopping 12% ABV so they're half forgiven. The rest of the absolution must come from the flavor if at all. It's a dark cloudy amber, head shorter than most from this land and also not much lace for me. It's a moderate-full fruity-malt product, mid to high sweetness as expected for a Noel special, the alcohol unremiting at all flavor notes. There is moderate malt, not stout strong of course, some fig, no hops to be detected over the ethanol flourish, some earthy rye, and none of the spicing that Belgian are famous for. I sipped again and again and tried to find a spice, any spice. I settled on the fact that the spice here is called EtOH; a favorite among our species for flavoring drink since about 7000 BC. I've tricked up lots of beers with shots of very clean, triple-distilled vodka and the effect here is similar to that approach. They have to make this on the sweet side or it would come off at 12% like a malt martini.

Duchesse de Bourgogne Flemish Red Ale
RATING: 5.0
Vichte, Belgium
The strong wired-cork bottle contains a blend of oak-aged 8- and 18-month old top fermented ale in an unpasteurized form. Color is rich reddish-amber and it overflows with tart-malty goodness. The head us beige and of a domed, ice cream float type. The lace is less than expected but it suffers nothing from this. It won a Golden Medal in the 2006 World Beer Cup. This stuff is so smooth it makes a mountain-top telescope mirror look like an rutted gravel road. The supremely agreeable combination of caramel malt, cherries, passion fruit, mellow citrus, and some chocolate notes is unadulterated heaven on earth. There are very sour and tart notes but they do not hinder so much as support the main flavor notes. It is never oversweet nor bitter but a constant fest of marvelous, truly awesome flavors. I suspect the younger 8-month brew contributes to the tart, more fruity nature (as it has some lambic qualities) and the older 18-month stuff a richness of sauve, sweet malt. It looks smashing in good glass or crystal and should impress any guest. Introduce this gem as a "Belgian Burgundy Beer" for those not yet informed as to it charms. Some of our latent friends need their love of wonderful beer to surface from fancy, trendy, Euro-chic, and prestigious places. Do what you must to ensnare and addict your pals. Money will be an object and be prepared to spend it before they start buying wide Belgian vials for you. It's plastic cash and very well spent. Trades. Delight. Dose for dose and parties choice.


Fantôme de Noël 2008
RATING: 5.0
Soy, Belgium
Brasserie Fantome was formed in 1988 under the guidance of Brewer Dany Prignon and uses the ghost theme and a general Saison style of brewing. They are in the style of a local farmhouse brewery deep in the heart of the famous Ardennes Forest. The green bottles come capped-and-corked, a bit different for a Belgian but no less an good economic compromise without affecting quality. Their annual Noel or Christmas Ale is from a different recipe or theme every year so I dated this review. Their logo ghost (like Caspar's evil twin) put on some rotund girth and looks like a snow man for this label - clever that. Carmelized and highly roasted malts are used in abundance and that is true of something called alcohol - the later being 10%. The cloudy butterscotch-amber broth is tangy, citrus-infused, and hops:malt balanced in the first sips. It mid-notes with stronger malts, medium sweet, very sophisticated and layered, finely textured, and always pleasant. The finish is a stronger dose of malt but rubbing one's tongue you get engaging bits of hop spice like bursts of cinnamon gum. (Note to self: invent beer-flavored hoppy gum with an ethanol liquid center). I paid $11 for the 750ml offering at Whole Foods in 2008 and that is about as expensive as most seasonal Belgians get. The experience is more than worth the price of admission even if running to the kitchen for a corkscrew was annoying. Overall, this cheerful gift is joyous sleigh ride through many of the brewing worlds good flavors, fading and erupting as it should, inspired all the way, and never with a jar or rough spot. I can't wait for Noel 2009 and even if it's a full Prez Jackson and comes with three corks, I'm there to buy a couple. 

Jenlain French Country Ale
RATING: 4.0
France
This French classic comes in Champagne-corked 750ml bottles for around $5.00. It is a medium dark amber with much less carbonation than the cork implies. Flavor is malty but not overly full in its Alsace hop. There are licorice and minor fruit notes. This 'Biere de Garde' is pleasant but can have bitter elements and an occasional bottle may taste stale. Castelain Blond is superior due to better carbonation, sweeter finish, and more interesting fruitiness.

Koningshoeven Dubbel Trappist Ale
RATING: 4.5
Tilbert, The Netherlands
This one pulls a fast one - trappist monks from Holland and not that B place. Strangely, my large brown, champagne-corked bottle gave no ABV rating. Other sources confirm 6.5% and one says 7%. I don't know what Dutch for "super yummy, cloudy brown fruit soup" is but that should be on the label somewhere. It pours a cloudy, amber-brown, nearly opaque for all the good floating stuff. The head is big, light brown, and lasts forever. This brewery was started in 1884, making them mere neophytes in the realm of old trappist brewers. Since 1969, InBev has been licensed to market their yummy stuff. It starts vaguely tart, then one gets malt richness, and then finally the orchestra opens up and plays fruit notes in rich diversity, clarity, and brilliance. Here it differs from the majority of Belgian doubles I know and surely their American knockoffs. There is some sweetness in the finish but it's restrained and perfectly judged. I get a little vanilla at mid note. For the fruit's clarity, it is clarity in terms of phenols and esters perfects because no single genus of common fruit comes quickly to mind. There is a bit of apple perhaps, raisin (an I told but personally don't get), surely pear in the later notes, and the usual clove but in rare moderation. There is clear butterscotch in the finish more so than caramel or generic sweet malt. I've never found butterscotch in a beer before so I'm not trying to be puffed or clever here. Let me call it lots of "beer fruit", molded by refined subdued sugars, and be done with the feable analysis we human can do. I actually found it best when very cold, 45 deg. F. and lower. I'm actually cheered that the ABV is this low and never at any times intrudes into  the joy of this malt smoothy.

De Landtsheer Malheur 12 Ale
RATING: 3.5
Buggenhout, Belgium
The first sip of this rootbeer-colored, bottle-conditioned ale is that of 12% alcohol with a malt chaser. They make as 10 Ale but I've not tried that as yet. For those of you keeping score at home, this is supposedly a quad or quattro Belgian ale, not that they always multiple 3% alcohol x one, two, three, or four to get their rating. It's never so simple in Belgium or Europe in general. The head is a firm tan and it was too dark too see much lace, though friends assure me it's abundant enough. While the initial sip (and it was my first beer to review today) was somewhat offensive with so much EtOH overpowering the flavors, the later appraisals (after about 5 decent Belgians) have me inured to our beloved molecule. Not surprisingly the same can be said of a fine whisky or Cab wine since the first few sips of the evening (or morning if you prefer) will be a bit sharp, awkward, and biting. Inure me and it all will get better (most of the time), hardened to the pleasures of alcohol without letting it overcome the flavors we love to place around and under and over it. This is a semi-sweet ale, not a syrupy as some report, nice malt but simply layered and monotone, and decent fruit (not great) which is variable with the temp and pour style. Anything cranking out 12% ABV is going to finish a bit dry unless the whole of Hawaii's sugarcane production for the year is somehow stuffed into the brown bottle. It is a nice concept, far less complex or layered in the dominant malts that it might be. If one were to compare it to the top barleywines (and one should) it is not where it needs to be. Many Belgian fans on the web and in print have heaped it with love and also very low ratings. I have to say the high ABV together with it's simplicity are flaws, severe flaws. One reviewer even called it "grape coughsyrup". I read a couple of online reviews who said the 12% fix was not detectable. Unless those guys are use to moistening their morning Wheaties with Grey Goose, their reviews are utterly incomprehensible and worthless. The 12 foot tall Ethanol Gorilla in the room is a problem here. For this premium money ($11 on January 2009) I was profoundly let down and even after ethanol acceptance period of an hour.

Legendes Noel de Geants
RATING: 2.5
Irchonweltz, Belgium
Made in a medieval castle, this cloudy amber-brown concoction is 330ml and 8.5% ABV. Wheat floats copiously in small bits around each bottle. One gets a nicely spiced malety beer at first and mid notes but sadly the finish is filled with metallic tastes we found thirdworldish and offensive. Two bottles were tried and both had this uncomfortable, ruining aftertaste so we must judge it the way many people are likely to find it. Perhaps next time they should brew it with something other than mote water.

Liefman's Goudenband
RATING: 5.0
Belgium
This FLANDERS BROWN ALE is a classic among Belgian ales and is one of the finest beers ever made. The corked bottles sell for $7 or so in the first year and can be aged like wine. We hear the 1986 vintage is perfect. The current 1994 crop is amber brown with abundant lace. The flavor notes are fruity and malty with endless complexity to thrill the tastebuds and the brain. The tartness may suggest to the naive that this is some brown wine cooler. But when the final palate hits you it proves to be a well-crafted beverage of the finest order. World class at any party. Flavor elements include carmel, honey, plum, cherry, malt, and chocolate.

New Belgium 1554 Enlightened Black Ale
RATING: 3.5
Fort Collins, Colorado
Where is New Belgium Brewery? Fort Collins, Colorado, of course. I might have bought Brooklyn or some sleepy town in Vermont. Anywho...this recipe is based on an ancient Belgian text dating to about 1554, recording a sumptuous dark drink reproduced for us today. It pours dark amber-brown, quickly disappearing head of cream, and some lace. ABV is just 5.6% but the high carbonation gives it a slightly higher effect. Flavor is weak for the style, still it's nicely malted, backbone of some hops, and with the price point I guess the "bargain Belgian" market is aimed for in terms of everything. I would pass for a mid-rate German dark lager if not for all the hoopla. Nothing special, just new. I have no reason to try it again nor do you a first time.

Rocs (Brasserie de) Triple Imperiale Belgian Special Dark Ale
RATING: 5.0
Montagnies-Sur-Rocs, Belgium
This potent 10% ABV beverage comes in large 750 bottles capped stoutly and covered in black foil at the apex. It glows in darkish amber, yeast floating and dancing like a 60's lava lamp, and the nose of medicinal-earthy malt. First nip is richly malty, molasses and caramel to the hilt, faintly Scottish in style, and not overly giving up it's strong ethanol hand. The yeast when consumed full and long and spread about the receptive oral papillae gives imaginative fruit notes to the pallet from most any of the pours; the bottle so vastly yeast-loaded THERE ARE NO BAD OR WEAK POURS EVER! This is truly great stuff and may I say that for $11.95 (February 2009) it had better f*%$#ing be. This triple is not a triple play but a grand slam in my record book. The wonderful interwined flavors from fruit to malt and caramel to grainy goodness are beyond reproach and worldclass in every sense. [You lardass, pimply beer review snobs go ahead and name the 22 non-existant fruits, vegetables and spices you imagine here while I deal with reality. Hey moron beergod23! They wouldn't know a mango or star fruit in Rocs if it was shaped like Saint Peter and could do the rosary in nine languages with a Karaoke reverb!]. I will say that all the dark debris will put off an uninformed drinker for this one floats and flies as much as any brew I know. Think of it like luscious, fresh orange juice pulp if you must - the parallel is close. (In fact, I've hired a 200-ton river dredge from up Norfolk way to clean my glassware tomorrow with the explicit order to retain and conserve every last bit of sediment for my future use). In the elite pours with the most balance, this stuff is loaded full of caramel sugar, augmented by a matchless Edenic orchard, and finishing with just enough EtOH to dry things out. Big malt, big fruit, and big alcohol - no better way to construct a triple anything. When it comes to our beloved, intoxicating molecule, this label wears it well. One could argue there is no finer dark ale in the world and if the famous "desert island" question came before me again and I had to make choices in Belgian terms...it would clearly be Rocs Triple Imperiale and Orval for the rest of my stranded, drunken, insane, volleyball-humping life. Alright...would one of you darn abbeys put a few pretty nuns wearing bingo-board bikinis on the label sometime? They could he handing out bananas and lollypops to feed to poor, perhaps. We helpless castaways just might need some spiritual inspiration out there...I'm going for a triple today.

Saint Sylvestre 3 Monts Golden Flanders
RATING: 5.0
France
Being French this is pronounced 'Trois Monts' (Three Mountains). Brasserie de St. Sylvestre has just 13 employees recreate this trappist-style ale. The huge corked and sculptured 750ml bottles sell for about $5.00. The head is full and persistant over a pale amber fluid and medium fast 'lace'. It is creamy and well-flavored but cannot be called rich - a virtue since it goes well with rich cheese and meat. Flavor is distinct and it finishes pleasantly bitter. 

Thomas Creek Kind Beer Belgian Style Red Ale
RATING: 3.5
Greenville, South Carolina
The dudes with the wood-grain six-pack holders came up with a Belgianoid ale that is unfortunately just 6.0% ABV. It pours with a fine, frothy head of ivory, a good classic color and not much of a nose to tempt one. It is weak in ABV but I would accept this for a mass market ale for other, true qualities. Spicing is mild, not full-bodied, good caramel notes at times but occasional odd in the finish, and deficient in the idiosyncratic notes of the original, Old World vessels. It falls short and the blower ABV could been have overcome with quality but they could not or did not.

Unibroue Maudite Ale on Lees
RATING: 
Chambly, Quebec, Canada
Since 1992 this "strong red ale" has been bottle fermented to 8% ABV, pouring a a bright amber color and not the mahogany of the marketing people - stained or unstained. They make a nice use of coriander, hops, and other spices in a light-moderate way. "The Damned One", as the name translates, is hardly hellish or condemnable and Unibroue notes it was the "first strong beer to be distributed in Quebec grocery stores". They say it lasts up to 5 years in the bottle and becomes more port-like, complex, and rewarding, with time. I cannot say it impresses above their Don-De-Dieu which is spiced and yeasy-fruity to near perfection but I know some of you demand a rich malt backbone to your strong ales - or at least like that way of ending a flavor trip. "It must be served cool but not cold" and in that one sees a difference in the presentation of their red ales from their golden ones. If one can afford to do this and has the patience, try these Chambly gems at various temps and measure one that suits you. The flavor notes change like a bit a symphonic orchestra in a cheap hall vs. an accoustically-designed one. Temperature is both the friend and enemy of beer chemicals and you get some of what you need at different levels. Generally, you can do lower in temp the darker the brew but that is a generalization that does not fit all the labels on the market. I know red ales that kill when cold, die warmer and Pils which are finer with some warmth and are generic if too cold - many are the opposite. You must know your beer, be willing to experiment, have fun, and love this liquid God and good men have given us.

Unibroue Trois Pistoles Ale on Lees
RATING: 4.5
Chambly, Quebec, Canada
The House of Chambly is one of the most classy and accomplished on all the North American continent. It has been popular for American breweries to make a belgian-style ale for more than two decades and some of the results are shaky at best; a few being spectacular and noted here on these pages. Chambly makes at least twelve very good Belgoid labels and there's not a mediocre one in the bunch. This offering pours rich amber-red, a rather dark shade, lace endless. The head is beige-cream and lasts well too. The appearance of generic fruit is obvious on first sip and at all the points of flavor from early to late. The finish is malty and moderate on the maltiness scale. The ABV is a traditional 9% and it's bottle fermented, even in the diminutive 12 oz. size. The official website describes the flaver as "wild fruit with an aftertaste of port". It lasts 8 years or more so can be put away to make even finer. It is certainly as smooth as a old port (and I have sampled my share of those as well) but the comparison is not valid in general. The blend of choco-malt and layered, diverse fruits is a nice accomplishment and thus is makes a good dessert wine on the order of a port.

Val-Dieu Abbey Brown (Brune) Ale
RATING: 4.5
Aubel, Belgium
Val-Dieu Abbey dates to the year 1216 and was founded by Cistercian monks. The peacefullness of their valley lead to farming and brewing in time. They withstood fires, destructions, and explusions during the Napoleonic Era. In 1997 they cranked up the long lost operations again using the old recipes. Today, all their labels beer the stamp of the Belgian Brewers Confederation, aptly named www.beerparadise.be

While I found their popular golden offerings to be less than interesting, this rich amber-brown product is very pleasant and enjoyable. The head is beige, rough, "jagged" as they call it, and enduring. The malt layering is very good, not worldclass, but inspired to be sure. At 8% it's a tad weaker than the 9% Triple and even their website admits it's more ruby than brown. (Would it kill a Belgian brewery to make a Ruby Ale and not falsely pigeon-hole everything!). The first sip is coffee, intensifying some into mocha with richer coffee yet, no sweetness, and virtually no bitterness. It's one of the smoothest dark beers that one could want and this without sacrificing satisfying malt values. Overall,Val-Dieu Brune is a pleasurable drink, well built in the flavor note department, solid and yet not stodgy, never heavy or crude, a bit like dark ruby velvet cloth against your skin.

Van Steenberg Gulden Draak
RATING: 5.0
Ertvelde, Belgium
The pretty white-enameled bottles catch the eye. It's probably because they reside next to Duvel and other premium baby-bottled Belgian classics in very select location. Four 11.2 ouncers for $16.95 (Feb. 2009) is a bit shocking. The 10.5% ABV is a mitigating factor - the ethanol might as well be from eight bottles. Besides this pretty, durable bottles can be reused, sometime, somewhere, when I get around to it for...something...or maybe. It ours a rich orangish-amber, the head rocky and beige-cream, the lace moderate. Sweet malt delights the nasal passages. From this point on, you'd gladly take out a second mortage at 78.9% for just one more alabaster bottle of beneficent Golden Dragon. The Golden Dragon is named for a huge stature on the clock tower at Ghent, Belgium, dating from the year 1111. By the way, they're the same corporate conglomerate as the Texas-born Celis White Belgian-style ale and the popular Piraat label in mini or gigantic bottles. Secondary fermentation in either the bottles or keg make it richer than your average brown Belgian copy. Their website claims is as "so glowing" and we did some pours and found it very popular for aesthetics alone. 

Tart complex malt appear in first notes, the mid point being rather sweet, and the finish a drier, high ethanol style. Coffee, toffee, and chocolate come to the foreground early. I found it nice that their website says "The English call this type of beer a Barley Wine". That's a frank admission and interesting point of convergence between two proud countries with rich, glorious brewing heritages. In 1998 the American Tasting Institute called it the "Best Beer in the World"; Schlitz and MGD are not going to accidentally slip into the that title so it's a true, very real honor. This brilliant brown, strong ale is a grand presentation of Belgian brewing arts, a time-honored recipe executed to exact precision. This beer has virtue and livliness in both color and flavor. It glows and pops on the tongue, a malty indulgence of the highest order. It's a big beer, yet a very silken one, endlessly mellow and toothsome at once. In today's business models (okay: paradigms) we talk about products being customer-centered in their focus. Many beers are about "I'm a hip genius brewmaster, here's my brilliant recipe from my new shiny tanks (that Bank of America still owns along with my house and Corvette)...and if you're smart you'll adore it and beg for more". This is a stunning beer made quite simply for real ale lovers - not a pretentious thing we're supposed love if we're clever, informed, or rich but frankly can't bear with it's ragged, quirky, rustic bits. Gulden Draak gives us exquisite balance, refined sensibilities at every flavor stage, and luminosity in at least two ways. And frankly: they don't need you, I, or the ATI telling them so. 

Here's a trick for surprising beer-innocent friends with more money and youth than taste: buy the big champagne-corked version of Gulden Draak in it's glowing white enamel and put on a table for a special occasion. They'll not only be shocked you brought a beer but the flavor will grasp their attention and joy like a golden clawed monster from mythology, swooping down to impress and inform. And should they dislike it...find a better class of friends. 

Weyerhauser QUAD Abbey-style Quadruple Ale
RATING: 5.0
Easton, Pennsylvania
This potent, 11.8% ale is nectar-like in color and mouthfeel, as aromatic as a hundred acres of prime orchard country in the autumn. An ale where you smell fruit esters both BEFORE and ABOVE the malt nose is sure to be heavenly in flavor too. It pours the color of apricot-cider (and yes it does exist), the lace very long, and the head small but creamy. To say this Anerican copy of the four-barreled Belgian blunderbuss is well crafted is to say "they do some good work over at that thar car shop...them folks going by the name Rolls Royce". This brew is ambrosia in every sense of the word. The word "feast" comes to mind over and over. The high ABV will bother come not used to this elevated fortitude; though it is hidden as well as possible. Fruit, malt, and enough hops to please are skillfully woven in an modern Belgian-style tapestry of the utmost appeal and refinement. It is THE NEW STANDARD for US-made Belgians on the dark side and put's a few to old country to shame as my tastebuds "see" it. There's a dignity, depth, and joyous brilliance to this nectar; always ready to please and yet so hard to find on a regular basis. If any US beer is worth the hassle and cost of mailorder, this would be one that comes to mind. There is no more super Fruit-Malt Belgian-style ale on the planet. And it ages well...


ALE - BELGIAN STYLE - GOLDEN, BLONDE, WHITE OR WIT

I had thought about separating out the stronger, darker double and triples ales from the singles but I think the reviews work better in one group. There are things golden, strong, and yet not called "dobbel" that give as good a punch as a pricey triple in the darkest of shades. There are things dark in color, called doubles but weaker than the singles or regular labels of another brand.

I love turning on people to Belgian beer and order it at restaurants and bars at every possible occasion. It usually works out well. Okay...it's very expensive. More alcohol? How much? That's good. Then they taste some of mine and usually get one to be polite or three to really learn the style. It works out very well most times. It's usually a good conversation except for one young lady who exclaimed: "No way! You mean like THEIR PREACHERS over there...like make and sell beer?!?". That got me to thinking about doing such here in the Protestant Bible Belt. "That First Baptist Dobbel Brown is so smoooooth...you'll be immersed in heavenly clove and banana notes until Lord returns". "That's nothing man. You gotta try Reverend Thompson's Golden Trippel from over at the Halleluiah Praise Temple of God. It's called the 10% Tithe-inator and after one sip you'll be watching the lace until Wednesday service".

Give a nice Belgian ale instead of Champagne next time!

Andelot Cuvee Euphorique Blonde Belgian Ale
RATING: 4.5
Lochristi, Belgium
These big wired and corked bottles have simple and straight-forward labels but you notice the plasticized cork - not exactly Trappist material of old. I love their series of cute names. Color is cloudy gold with hints of amber light, lace very long, and the head ambitious and white. Delicious fruit comes off the pour to mouth-watering excess. The notes are unified and yet complex, a mix of fruit-yeast and moderate spicing in the country of origin's style. Euphoria is any obvious adjective and it fits well enough. I am inclined to favor "nectar of the gods" or "liquid supernational food of angels". Yeast swirls to excess and that cheers the top-fermented if not not pickled cockles of my heart. It is priced in my area below many of those Belgian labels with fancier painted labels and corks whose mom was an oak tree. If I dare call it it a low-ethanol, bargain Belgian I'm sure to be misunderstood for quality is ample even if it's sweeter than I sometimes like. There is a nice spicy, earthiness to this ale. The optimal, most yeasty pour is best of course and one gets new notes and revelations as the bottle grows low. We would have enjoyed more than 6.5% to put us once and solidly under the table for night for it's a fine ale with which to end the day. 

Anderson Valley Brother David's Triple Abbey Style Ale
RATING: 4.5
Booneville, California
Not many beer makers can get away with saying "Open the bottle and greet the High Priestess...You are worthy" in ornate, ancient script and not come off looking pretencious or goofy. AV can and it's not just above the 10% ABV. The High Priestess of Fermentation has surely pleased them for this hazy golden-amber brew has a long-enduring even if very slow, relaxed lace. Flavor is reasonably sweet and the ethanol punch is reduced to a mere, welcome tap. Spicy is restrained (something many Amer-Belgian brews have yet to master) and all the other flavors solid in good amounts. At $7.00 for a large bottle (no cork or hardware), it remains a good value against many of the real Belgian brews at the current exchange rate. Yet it is not a pinnacle grade abbey ale and so we move on neither enlightened nor displeased.

Anker Gouden Carolus Tripel
RATING: 4.5
Mechelen, Belgium
This bottle-fermented blonde is 9% ABV and light straw yellow with a foamy, domed, whitish head. The product is lager for two weeks. (by the way,  am I the only one who finds the idea of "uncorking a lacy blonde" a slightly erotic theme? Aside from the yeast-laden thing, of course). It opens up faintly tart, soon a medley of moderate yeast fruit, malty backbone, and traditional spicing. The finish is dry, even alcohol-laden at times. I think coriander is the dominant spice but there's more citrus tartness in the later notes. Yeasts float generously in the bottle. The fruit notes are banana, generic citrus, faint ginger, dry pepper, and malted milk balls. What?! Malted milk balls count as a serving of fruit. I'm sure I read it some place. No!? Oh dear, I'm due for scurvy slump any second now. In general, the balance is well judged and either cold or slightly warmed, this is a sumptuous feast. The finish is occasionally too tart, sliding to ethanol awkwardness, and I'd have bumped up either the spices or banana another notch. I was surprised to read some online reviews of it being too sweet. My bottle (and I did suckle her long and carefully) would have benefited from a little more sweetness to temper the finish. Won a Gold in the 2002 World Beer Cup in he Triple category.

Augustijn Belgian Abbey Ale
RATING: 4.0
Ertvelde, Belgium
The thick, brown bottle with cork and painted image of a monk dipping into barrels is standard stuff and lovely comfort to prepare the tastebuds. I drooled all the way home. ABV is 8% and the lace variable but carbonated to the hilt when in one's mouth. Color is dark straw, quite nearly a gold, the head a solid cream, continuing long. It sips only faintly sweet, oddly metallic in others, Pils-like and grainy at times, a firm malt intrastructure. There  are bright elements that are best described as "vanilla malt" and these are more simple and contrived than usual for something in this trim. Fruit is there, not a yeast-produced variation, more of slightly tart apple, giving a crispness. The finish is smooth, drier, and of mixed strength. Spice is slight and nothing can be named. These folks have been brewing something since 1295 and who am I, a brew-dazzy American in 2009, telling them they have a little problem cold or cool? I'll have to assume they like it very much this way and perhaps I should too? The malt intensifies on the buds with more sips and half way through the bottle, the odd notes slightly recede. I thought I was imaging some of the odd things until I got a friend to call it "musty" and noted the same Pilsoid flavors that contradicted the usual ale view of the world from that side of the world.

Avery Salvation Belgian-Style Golden Ale
RATING: 4.5
Boulder, Colorado
This is the pale counterpart the The (Amber) Reverend but in a slightly more modest 9% ABV trim. The label could have been foiled off Russian church iconography. They have deliberately made it "lighter" with apricot, peach, nutmeg, and cinnamon flavors instead of massive malts and dominant doses of joy. Belgian candy sugar is used once again. The head is twenty times as ambitious as The Reverend, the hue a light amber-gold, vaguely cloudy. It's almost a Peach Ale and not in the sense of a far more sour Peach Lambic by any means. Belgian yeast and Styrian Goldings hops are used, the later evident in the mixed finish that alternates among alcohol, fruit, malt, and spice/hops even when very cold. Warmer it's all over the map. The flavors here are terrific at times but are  sometimes disappointly twisted and something I can only express as "empty but tart". I should have known from their "lighter" and "delicate" description on the website we did not have a double turbo, overhead cam golden ale in this offering. Still it is not light nor always delicate and the ABV will stroke you again and again when think you figured out all the notes. "Soft and Champagne-like" says their material.

There is so much going on here and even at one temp you get lots of different flavors. Warm it up and get another twenty-six. Is Salvation just schizophrenically brilliant or a turgid ethanol soup with a recipe containing too many flavors and none of them balanced or always strong enough? There is something known as "complex" in the culinary and beverage worlds and there is also...unfreakin' comprehensible. Is the praise here just batty and over-a-cuckoo's nest or sincerely speaking-in-tongues of which I have no hope of understanding in any life? I like this brew but some might hate it. Give it your first go very, very cold and then let it sit and try it again. It's redeems one on the oppressive, humid August day if chilly as a glacier and used as the so-called Summer Refresher Beer; in this respect a German wheat with a slice of lemon will have nothing on this Boulder build and oft be a tragic second. I'm glad religious salvation is not so hard to figure out because this beer demands grace, works, study, temperature control, differential sip angles, consultation with twenty smitten friends, and regular renewel; and perhaps an international tribunal in Stockholm. If the bottle came with an 1132-page catechism hanging from cap, we all should be praising in a day or two. This is not an easy salvation nor a clear doctrine and perhaps that is what all the preachers and brewers need; for both want us thirsty, a bit confused, ready to shed bills, and coming back for more.

Ballast Point Wahoo Wheat Beer
RATING: 4.0
San Diego, California
Of late this brand has not gotten the highest nor expected reviews but I like their label art and approach as if that counts as trying. This one won a 2002 Gold Medal...at the LA County Fair. That speaks volumes and enough gigabytes to overload three Google server farms. Despite the name, your first sip gives you the coriander-curicao-orange peel vibe and the label actually confesses to it being a Belgian style Hefe-weizen using both wheat and oats. It's super yummy cold as a so-called "summer cooler" but is a tad too thin for me on the background flavors - any fool can get spices right! It pours extra cloudy so the yeast is at least ideal. This gold Belgianoid slice is a very crowded market from Buggenhout to Boulder - so one really needs to rise above everything, including the nice price point of just $4.99 for 22 oz. They are competing against thing easily ten dollars more a bottle and on rare occasions now to $20 more. Still - if cash and plastic run short, this is not a bad way to get the wit beer experience for a McDonalds value meal price.

Blanche de Bruges
RATING: 5.0
Bruges, Belgium
This unfiltered and bottle-conditioned BELGIAN WHITE is from a 300 hundred year tradition of the Vanneste family of Bruges. Color is very pale yellow and its overflows with carbonation. Flavor is distinct from BELGIAN WHITE by Huyghe which has more apricot than the apple and citrus notes found here. It is very smooth and malty in the finish. Unlike some Belgian beers it is not overly potent and is compatible with a full dinner. A real treasure. It was our computer database's BEST BELGIAN WHITE IN 1993.

Blue Moon Abbey Ale
RATING: 4.0
Denver CO/Utica NY
This American made copy of an ancient Belgian style comes off frankly as an Americanized beer; but not one lacking in all quality. It is clear light to medium amber with an tall, enduring head of ivory color. It is low alcohol compared to the real thing (the first noticable difference). The rich malt is there but seems single dimensional. It is quite smooth and not unlike a decent German dark in basic theme. The price can be very good at times but if not the real Belgian thing we must judge it simply as an other amber ale. In that arena too it is not the best one could get. It will not disappoint the average enthusiast but if you've had a dozen good ambers in your day you will know enough to grab something else. I've asked for this label in many art deco-drench restaurants and at many oaky-bronzy bar thingies because I could not bear another Sam Adams and everything else on offer was...crap. I never had a bad night and once in awhile I got to explain to some nice person why cloudy beer is a good thing. 

Blue Moon Belgian White
RATING: 3.5
Denver CO/Utica NY
Celis of Texas has earned some high marks for their very believable copies of ancient Belgian beers. Other US microbreweries are trying the styles as well. This one is wheat-based (not unlike Hoegaarden above) and they admit to careful spicing with coriander and orange peel. Color is hazy light orange (more amber than many whites from Belgium) and the head is the familiar big fine foamy kind. Lace is obvious but perhaps more limited than traditional. A big citrus 'nose' hits you but unfortunately the complex and mysterious flavor is missing. One reviewer said 'more of a formula attempt than true mastery' while to another 'VERY pleasant even without the big alcohol smack... not authentic...barely overspiced...could be a new AMERICAN WHITE class.'

Bockor Bellgems Bruin (Red Ale)
RATING: 4.5
West Flanders, Belgium
Despite the word bruin (Latin for brown) it is called a 'West Flanders Red Ale'. Color is reddish-brown with a large creamy-brown head and 5.5% alcohol by volume. The tartness is apparent in the nose and one gets a very good introduction to tart-malty ale from the very first sip. This extreme flavor is perhaps not for everyone and in fact it even borders on the acidity of Berliner Weisse. It is clearly a well-crafted beer and is unique even among brown or red Belgian ales on American shelves.

Bosteels Tripel Karmeliet
RATING: 4.5
Buggenhout, Belgium
Being an ignorant, silly American, I figured karmeliet meant this ale was going to taste wonderfully of caramel; maybe even triple layered caramel. Yum! Actually this 3-grain, triple-strength blonde ale is from a 17th century recipe used by Carmelite monks from Dendermonde. Oats, barley, and wheat are the lovely grains of choice. The label proclaims "robust" and yet this is a pale-as-ale-can-get presentation. Spicing is apparent, moderate-full strength, the head giant and tinged like old golden-ivory.  ABV is 8.4% which is low-average for a triple. I actually like ABV below 9% for a golden ale for it allows more flavors to stroke or club me for the ethanol does. I am certain I can taste the difference between this 3-grain recipe and that of some other triples which use only barley or the equally fine barley-wheat blend. The backbone, foundational flavors here are very solid, strong, and yes...a bit robust like a C cup plus a Wonderbra. (beep...sorry for the sexist analogy again...this is a recording). I do really like this beer but it does not amaze or slay me like Duvel or some other 5-bottle rated classics. Perhaps it is the spicy a touch too high for me or even the occasional rough finish note - it is most certainly not the solid grainy framework.

Br. Bavik Petrus Aged Pale Ale
RATING: 3.5
Bavikhove, Belgium
As a 7.3% ale in 11.2 ouncers from Belgian, we have nothing unusual. The 20 months of oak-aging is a bit special. This is not an American Pale Ale but a classic Belgian wit though in a sour style. It pours crystal clear, bright yellow, close to Pils pale, with a near white head of moderate size and long duration. The sour predominates the malt and hops and if one likes a sour ale, you need to judge it on those merits alone. It is far from accessible to even the average American beer lover who probably thought the pale ale name with promise of hops and malt meant something else. As sour ales go, it is above average but the lack of underlying malt and hops in the presentation bothers me. I would have more malts in the mix and still they could have been true. I doubt they will care what some American idiot named Hatch says about them. Still, if one's product is to be surprising and different from expectations, it must also be likable, complex, and illuminating. Surprise goes only a small way here and with a number of good sour Gueuze and other lambics available in in the US, the comparison will continue to the infavorable.

The Bruery Saison de Lente Belgian Style Saison Ale
RATING: 4.5
Orange County, California
Coming near the season of Spring, Easter and Lent and all those fun times, is this very fun golden Belgian style ale. It's just 6.5% ABV and so a bit weaker than the classics. Their goals are "clean and hoppy" but with some "earthy, wild notes". It can be aged up to two years and the bottles are subtley brown-tinged and stoutly built.  It pours a rich amber-gold, cloudy as any day in Seattle, and with a jagged eggshell head. Did I say eggshell? Slap me somebody...I meant off white.

The first notes are stiff, spiced to a degree of sinfulness and hopped to the point of a faux-alcohol nip - I really thought the later could be simulated and this is nice example of confusing an herb with the big, bad beloved molecule sought by billions and taxed by politicians. This ale has a nice fruit subtext but hops is the main plot at all times and it coats and envelops the fruit in time. As for their "earthy" bits, we find them too and they are nice in form of mixed spice acids and esters. This is an ale not to be forgotten but to be missed during the days of Lent which frankly many of my readers will not know nor appreciate or care for. For those of you who Lent and re-Lent, three bottles of this, a MILFy brunette flight attendant with years of onboarding experience, and a last minute Priceline.com jacuzzi suite near Terminal C your celebration will be memorable. The old lady will do after a trip to Vic's Secret (go peach lace babydoll this time) as will a cherubic Novitiate needing one last lesson in giving up and not going without and things to come. 

The Bruery White Orchard Belgian Style Ale
RATING: 4.5
Placentia, California
The big, brown, capped bottles are just $8 a piece for 750ml. The ABV is 5.7% and the color very pale. The head is large at first, made of dispersed bubbles, and short-lived. It has the usual "orchard" of spices but a hint of lavender and some added wheat. That lavender thing seems to be real and that brings about a new meaning to a "floral ale". Actually this herb works for me. It is supremely refreshing, not potent or alluring for complexity but neither simple or weak. It is curious brew...er bru...overall and one I recommend for a group, blind tasting. See if they can determine what flavor note is new! Nice value even if less than traditional.
 
Brugse Staffe
RATING: 3.5
Brugge, Belgium
This Belgian ale comes in 750ml corked bottles that undergo a second fermentation once corked. This is a BELGIAN WHITE ALE and not a brown or amber as are many others. Quite frankly the depth of flavor does seem to justify the $7.00 price more than one time. It does have one of the most lovely labels for artwork so collectors of same do take note. Like most Belgian ales the head is deep and aromatic. Flavors span yeast and earthy malts but the finish is very simple and 'off'. It lacks the sophistication typical of the country and this price range. Reviewers reported 'lovely hazy-cloudy yeast flavors but low on the depth and alcohol scales...give me a Duval' and 'more subtle than I would expect for the city of origin'.

La Caracole Troublette Wheat Ale
RATING: 4.5
Flamignoul, Belgium
Despite what some stores show, the brewer is Caracole and not Troublette. It's 5.5% ABV and for the steady price approaching $9-10, that's a bit weak. The bottle swirls with fine yeast like a sound hefe-weizen. It pours cloudy, pale yellow with a very brisk lace, and near white head of large bubbles, constantly reinvigorating by the ascending carbonation. It is grainy but not so wheaty as many German products. There is faint spicing which normally differentiates the Belgian wheats from the German ones. The odd label with the snail touching the water and making the word "Troublette" ripple (an effect that three of these bottles would produce anyhow) and the snail-helmeted guy are very distinct among modern beer offerings. They use 100% organic malt and of the Pilsener sort. Hops are Styrian and Saaz.

It gained fame in the US with a 2002 Gold in the WBC. The fruits intensify with some yeasty pours and one gets very nice fruits at times, mangoes, fresh sweet apple variety, and faint pineapple I figure, later more citrus tartness. There are sweet places and it ends more sweet than dry; perhaps a 6-7 on 10 scale of sugar. The spice is too faint to identify but it there in more than the elements which come from the hops. The shift between tart orange, lemon, and sugar is remarkably well done and the spicing supports this rather than being equal to the main notes; kind of like faint background percussion and harp play. It is best served at about 42 deg. F. they recommend; and I agree. I'd have boosted the ABV without sacrificing it's comforting, mellow sweetness, also raised the spices, and tuned up the fruit with a tad more complexity. There's also a solid place for more earthy wheat flavor and I'm not sure why Belgian wheats are not as wheaty as could be. It's a very fine beer but most of us in larger cities have dozens of large-bottled gold beers to choose from.

Celis Golden
RATING: 4.0
Austin, Texas
Getting a Belgian ale from Austin is in theory about as risky as ordering barbeque cooked and pulled in Bruges, Belgium. Using Belgian methods and nothing but water, hops, and barley malt the brewmasters in Austin have mostly succeeded in creating a Belgian effect. The color is exceedingly light straw yellow and is closer to a Belgian White than our idea of golden. The carbonation is large and long. The flavor is not rich and nectared like a Belgian white or gold. The alcohol content is so much lower and adds nothing to the aromatic quality. This Celis Golden is less enjoyable than the Celis Pale Bock but is is worthwhile experience if you think you tried every style made in the States. This one does not have the flavor or aroma of a light-colored Belgian brew but is as least as entertaining as many imported Pils. Light and refreshing if very cold.

Celis Pale Bock
RATING: 5.0
Austin, Texas
Belgian style beer out of Austin Texas? Next thing you know they'll be raising cattle in Argentina for hamburgers sold in Texas. Both are true. While this label has won some nice awards ('tho not many Belgians enter US festivals) the diehard beer elite have not unanimously approved. If you give an unmarked glass to a skilled taster they'll guess France or Belgium. This is very un- American and surely not Lone Star. The lovely label with copper margins has an aura of quality and craftsmanship. Perhaps this is to Belgian beer what Lexus is to Mercedes - mostly equal but in a few details better OR worse yet still lacking that thing called prestige. Now that California can make a decent Champagne it is time the secret Belgian art to come under assault.

Celis White u bw 5.0 529 Austin TX Celis of Austin TX makes 4 beers (Pale Bock, White, Golden, and Grand Cru) that use natural ingrediants to recreate a Belgian style. Having only tested the first three we find this white to be the most convincing and appealing. While the high alcohol bite of a true Belgian white is missing, a pure and mysterious fruitiness is obvious. Experts in beer (as with wine) will shout for hours as to the right adjectives. Famous Belgian whites are hard to de- scribe with any real precision. This effective recreation suggests sweet pear juice with a large bubbly head. It is more cloudy than many German wheats (warm or cold) and yes, that is a good sign. We have never seen a cloudy beer that was not a thrill. This is supreme proof that America can brew.

Chimay Premiere Ale (Red Ale) b br 5.0 This classic worldclass beer has been renamed but it retains its charm and potent 7% (by volume) punch. This reddish amber has a good head and very wonderful elements of spice and fruit and yeast - the later furnished by a secondary yeast fermentation and witnessed by some welcome visual effects. The Trappist fathers of Belgium have retained for themselves one of the world's great mortal pleasures. It may vary but in all forms is a delight. I still look to this label and buy a bottle or two as my standard for Belgian reds.

Clipper City Heavy Seas Red Sky At Night Saision Ale
RATING: 4.5
Baltimore, Maryland
Pouring rich gold with a yeasty haze, this is one of the finer copies of the Belgian article from American shores. The 7.5% ABV, imported yeast, candi sugar, and wheat shows in the results for it is endlessly flavorful, spiced correctly, and as refreshing as the real thing. It is delicate where it needs to be and rich where the style calls for it. Most North America copies are too weak in ethanol or flavors or strong in spice to be as good as Red Sky. This is not to be missed, even by those authenticists who only drink the French and Belgian versions.
Coronado Orange Avenue Wit
RATING: 2.5
Coronado, California
The western US label flows from a bottle ladden with luscious sediment and 5.2% in ABV. It's normal for aesthetics, favoring the weaker, straw-colored side of colors. In this age when everyone - and I mean your three crazy neighbors brewing Bud imitations in their garage - has a Belgian style wit, this one misses the mark. The spicy seems to be missing, the yeast flavors hidden under a strange, subdued set of malt notes that suggest something went very, very wrong. It is not refreshing - the minimal, polite comment for an mediocre wit copy - and indeed gets offensive at times with off, metallic notes in the finish and a generally disagreeable effect enough to put one off fancy new labels forever. There are 300 friends with tanks in Calie that can visit to get something better if they care. In the meantime, don't abuse your tastebuds and drink pretty much anything else yellow and foamy.

De Dolle Dulle Teve 10 Trippel
RATING: 4.5
Belgium
This even 10-percenter has a head so large it wants to take over it's glass and two nearby. Beware of opening it at room temp or anywhere without a glass ready to hold the full volume. The lace is endlessssssssssssssss. Color is a good, mid yellow, bright enough. The 11.2 ounce offering is pricey at $5 bucks (August 2008) and yet we expect such investments from other there. The label may be the ugliest thing out of Belgium, a goofy long-chinned dude with purple hair and lightning bolts coming out of his golden ears. I'm guessing some kin of the owner must have designed it for such would not survive any marketing department on earth. I'm informed of late the purple and gold dude may in fact be a ugly girl for the label means "mad bitch". It is potent for the alcohol, spicy is moderate at times but the finish a bitterish affair from more spice and hops in colusion. I like it alot and for a trippel it's about what we want in that style. I deducted one half point for it's failure to be much better or really any better than other trippels; 5 bottles need to grab me for their superiority and this is just another down-the-line, highly competant label.

Dentergems Wit
RATING: 5.0
Dentergem
A BELGIAN WHITE ALE is a world apart from what most Americans understand as beer. Color is light straw yellow and the carbonation is swift. The highly aromatic first appeal is that of mint. Flavor at first rush is a mixture of herbs, malt, and mint and is distinct from other WITBIERS like Duvel or Blanche de Bruges. The flavor depth is sophisticated but it is not for one who thrives on rich hops or heavy malt. At about $5 per 750ml it costs about what a thrifty CA or NY Sherry costs and is a better education. We wouldn't drink it every week but now and then its quality will impress. Unlike Duvel it is light enough to consume in quantity.

Dogfish Head Pangaea
RATING: 4.5
Milton, Delaware
This big-bottled, 7% ABV offering from one of the country's promising, upstart breweries is a tribute to Pangaea, the supercontinent that once united most of the world into one landmass; "One happy world' or "one hoppy world" if you will. Ingredients from the various continents today are used. There's crystalline ginger from Australia, Antarctica water (why bother except be a bit too cute and clever?), basmati rice frm Asia (is rice good in a premium ale?), and so on. I assume North America and Europe are represented by their usual good brew stuff. It pour dark gold, head long, and you quickly come to think of it as a ginger tea, faintly spiced for a moderate gingerbread fantasy. I'm convinced (as are others I consulted) that nutmeg and coriander elements are in the mix. It is said to age well. There is a worldwide symphony of flavors but I'm afraid they have two conductors; one liking a ginger fast pace and other a slower more Belgian theme. It's a very fine product, creative really, even if too drenched in United Nations-flag flying, one-world hype for me. Thank god the UN didn't decide on the recipe because this busy brew already with 13 flavors would be required to have another 196 to keep everyone happy, fed, economically stimulated, empowered, and quiet. It does have some oddly blended, watery moments, the occasional one more fragmented than others; which I think stems from the "everything but the kitchen sink" school of brewing. Maybe they should have stuck with East Pangaea and offered us West Pangaea's treasures next year.

Dupont 'Saison Dupont' Ale
RATING: 4.0
Hainaut, Belgium
This 'Belgian farmhouse ale' from Hainaut is champagne-bottled and is dark cloudy golden bordering on light amber. Carbonation and head last for ages. It remarkably complex and overall wonderful. At first experience it reminds one a bit of a great Hefe-Weizen but is quite dry. It is unfiltered and bottle conditioned and is the best known example in the US of the Saison or Wallonian Style. It is a semi-thrilling treat and a nice alternative to sparkling wines or the golden German stuff. Nice but not with the true greats. Dare I say it? Some American brewers do better here. Dupont's famous yeast is used by other brewers or often something very similar.

Dupont Avec les Bons Voeux Saison Ale (2008)
RATING: 4.5
Tourpes, Belgium
This is a special "holiday" ale designed to be "redolently aromatic, rich, and velvety" and is often enjoyed to celebrate the coming New Year. This 2008 offering comes in yellow label with an orange-toned drawing of bottle racks and black lettering. Previous years have included a blue background to the label. It is super-floaty in the yeast department, the bottle just a tornadic cone of the stuff. The lace lasts forever and the frothy, coarsely-bubbled head is near white. It uncorks a bit skunky but second wiff is of firm spiced ale in that nation's familiar style. Very nice tart, citrus notes come up quickly and the finish of this comes from the 9.5% ABV, faint yeast fruitfulness, and clove. The spice and the hops intensify the longer you sip it; to the point one of my trusted would-be-beer-guru friends felt it was overspiced. The balance of tartness, sweetness, and a dryish finish are well judged at midpoint but too tart for me in the final campaign. I consider a "holiday ale", a special seasonal in fact, to be justified in going the extra mile in any department as long as it does not offend or make one cringe. This profusion of good botanical stuff from Belgium's spice drawer is not only welcome but expected; though not everyone will want to go this far. It's not an everyday find and as a special seasonal, you want to have some extravagantness now and then. A found the endless drumbeat of the citrus tartness a bit wearing in some finishes and wish they'd sweetened it up just a bit more; orange is after all best when more sweet than tart. Perhaps a warmish malt framework would have given the finish an even more complex edge. Still it's dangerously drinkable; a richly-flavored potion with which to restore the health (yeast) and spirits (spices). I'll be sampling every year I can get in the future.


Duvel b bw 5.0 110 BEST HIGH ALCOHOL BEER SOLD IN US 1993, 1994 Moortgat Brewery of Belgian produces this true classic. It pours cloudy light yellow and is nearly all head - the label warns: pour slowly. Lace is perfect. Flavor is unbelievably full and nectar-like but not with the apricot theme of Orval. The potent alcohol content (6.7 weight/8.2 volume) is immediately apparent and gives it a fine liquor quality. Duvel means Devil - fitting for a potent seduction. Expect to pay about $3-5 per 11.2 oz.

Flying Dog Kerberos Tripel
RATING: 4.5
Frederick, Maryland
First of all, Mega-kudos to FD for offering this gem in an affordable 4-pack called Canis Major which included four of it's best, strong beers. I love this label. There's a green, multi-headed, dragon like dog with long fire-like tongues seeming to conquer a nearby small abbey. It turns out to be a hellhound, surely not the friend of abbey  business but perhaps useful in warnings to the wayward. "Greetings, oh god of the barstool. In your hand resides mights Kerberos Tripel...". I Googled Kerberos and found out it's a network authentication protocol and according to one Google Image a three-headed dog who loves kissing naked white chicks. Now I get it. Tripel, three-headed. Snarling, strong alcohol. Kissing naked chicks, three or four full sips at most.

The 3x juice is 8.5%, medium gold, barely cloudy, and with a lace as limitless as the known galaxy. Head is big, near white. It is brighter, tarter, and nippier at first sip than any golden triples, a very alive and potent presentation. There is low spicing, faint coriander I suspect, perhaps more peel from a hesperidium, and lots of love in the execution. There are formulaic recipe Belgian products out the ying-yang these days and some of them in six-packs for a buck more than junk pale ale. Flying Dog clearly cared here and it shows. This is an admirable copy, the nearly perfect "Rollex" fake, always pleasing, a full triple to be sure but very easy on the tastebuds. I would have turned the spice up a notch and worked off one or two odd notes in the finish; the later being a variable hopping that is either a wrong variety or too many flowers for my taste. It is very near.

Flying Dog Woody Creek White
RATING: 3.5
Frederick, Maryland
The founder of Flying Dog is George Stranahan and he is the unofficial mayor Woody Creek, Colorado, a self-described community of social misfits. Like that town, this brew is unfiltered, spicy, and I suppose...dominated by haze. At 4.8% it is more of a ultra-faux Belgian in this respect. It is refreshing but then so is lemon water and Koolaid. The spicing is moderate, modest, and nicely judged. I cannot recommend it for the lack of overall depth and low ABV value.

Four Plus Monkshine Belgian Style Pale Ale
RATING: 4.5
Salt Lake City, Utah
The town that's given us "thou shalt not drink" as well as Polygamy Porter brings this surprisingly authentic golden Belgian to the market. I paid just $9.99 for 6 full-sized bottles. The lace was endless, columnar, very convincing. The mimimalist label too is not your basic Utah expectation either. The mostly black label carries a single blue M with a golden halo over it. Somehow the beers of SLC can hardly escape religeous imaginery or so it seems. So many US copies of the real style are too golden, have no lace, wrong spicing, not white enough a head, etc. This one is spot on for authenticity points. I found it very refreshing, the spicing moderate to near full, not terribly complex and most of all never terrible in those delicate finish notes.  Four Plus is actually a Division of Uinta. While this brew is a superb value, very enjoyable, crisp, and pleasant, the 4.0% ABV and lack of complexity slightly mar the experience. It is a Ferrari, yes, but only 82 horsepower. Low ABV in a Belgian gold is not my first choice for building what is otherwise a fine knockoff.

Gordash Holy Mackeral Special Golden Ale (2008)
RATING: 4.5
Melbourne, Florida
Not alot of beers are brewed in the Sunshine State and even fewer have a drinking fish with dreadlocks on the label and 8.5% ABV. This "small batch beer" from 2008 is done in the Belgian style, rich medium yellow, and with a large cream head. It has no lace but no all golden Belgian ales come in those huge corked bottles in the first place. They claim it has a "Florida twist" but then they go on to explain use of German Pilsner malt and Czech saaz hops. Fruit flavors, especially citrus and banana are pleasant but moderate. While it begins sweet it ends a bit drier and nicely balanced. Overall it's on the sweet side. Some reviewers have said it is sweet and little else but it gives a very appeal if you like your golden Belgian ales with less spice. If you want the whole citrus and coriander dose to extreme - look elsewhere. "Refreshing yet complex" is the goal and they've hit the mark near to bullseye with a sweetish, very rich, yet lightly spiced golden ale of supreme quality. It needs to be cold but I tried it at ambient room temp and found it pleasant - as if sitting on my table for a long, leisurely two hour meal with friends and family.  Gordash actually brews it "by agreement" at Florida Beer Co. in Melbourne but doubtless it's their concept and recipe. Apparently the founder was a winner of a Sam Adams World Homebrew context and is now in business on their own. The website talks about "fine sipping beers meant to be savored not rushed" and they've definately hit that mark as well.

Grain d'Orge Belzebuth
RATING: 4.0
Ronchin, France
Paying $9.99 for a three pack of anything worth less than diamonds is not my cup of tea. Then if these brews as tiny 8.4 ouncers and would normally be screaming like a bat or demon from below. The really "good", yea heavening thing about this underworld-inspired broth is the 13.0% ABV value. Billed as "the most unique ale in the world", we suppose this thing is a homage to golden Belgium ales of legend. It is made in France and they regular do the trappist sort of brews. Color is darker golden than most such products and there is so much alcohol I'm not sure if I'm imagining bitter spices or not! As a friend of mine says, "in the final analysis, ethanol is the best spice of all". He lives a spicy life and it shows. It is not yeasty by any means in flavor or appearance. This stuff has more malt than the color might suggest and one does get some dark, vaguely raisin-like fruit notes. Experts in the style tell me that Belgian yeast is apparent to them but what is there's and what is old French yeast is surely open to national debate. This product is as controversial among ale lovers as their claim to be the most unique ale on the market. It's no Duvel and in that one respect it fails to climb very high on my "buy again" or worship-at-any-cost lists.

Great Divide Colette Farmhouse Ale
RATING: 3.5
Denver, Colorado
From her two silhouettes on the label, Colette is evidently a smokin' hot farm girl but one bearing a sharp pitchfork in case the lads get too amorous. The label says it's an homage to Belgian farmhouse ales and includes wheat and rice in the formula. Their goal was a fruity flavor, tartness, and some dryness. The tartness of a Belgian homage is there but clearly not the lofty ABV. Spicing is moderate and nicely done. Dry to be sure. I like but there are so many labels richer, more passsionately layered, and beckening. Colette has  spice and looks in some of right places but surely not my ultimate hayloft fantasy. (I really hope certain people don't read this.)

Green Flash Le Freak
RATING: 5.0
San Diego Co., California
A freak it surely is. The label proclaims "extreme ale converging San Diego-style imperial pale ale and Belgian style trippel" with 9.2% ABV. It is cloudy in butterscotch gold, hinting with amber in strong light, lace as endless as any authentic Belgian product, and the head about as yellow beer heads can be. The "imperial pale ale" side of the genepool seems to indicate a strong hopping but most drinkers will think this a very hoppy trippel or an IPA x Trippel merger. It is vaguely spiced (nothing clear) but hops the the primary flavor element at all temps. It is extraordinarily soothing and refreshing cold or even close to room temp. This may one of the finest idiosyncratic American beers I tested this year (2008). It really must be tried as a precious oddity and creative effort that was pulled off with much skill and excellence. Some hybrid styles are just quirky and are marketed as some dramatic world-changing thing. Remember Mr. Brewer everywhere that hybridizing styles is as easy as mixing any two brews in the same glass, stein, or pitcher. Beer Blenders, an increasingly growing group of brew lovers, do this all the time and with economic ease. Green Flash has made this intermediate curiosity are worthwhile experience and done it at the fair price ($5-6 per 1 pt. 6 oz.). I'm trying to avoid the overused phrase "a must try" - how about "mandatory beer training".

Hoegaarden White Ale
RATING: 4.5
This unfiltered BELGIAN WHITE BEER (Biere Blanche) is your typical cloudy (yeast-hazed) whitish yellow beer with very large head and carbonation for the next decade or two. Like other classic whites it has a light fruity aroma with nice spicy notes. Unlike other Belgian ales this lacks a high alcohol potency. It also lacked a nectar-like quality but reminded some of us of a pear spritzer. Even at the required cold temps and with a practiced 'swirl and pour' it proved a bit weaker on both flavor and alcohol than we would have expected for an $8.40 FOURPACK. There's a juvenile interest in this label that has nothing to do with it's quality or history. Everyone from college jocks to thirty-something Enginerds while laugh far too long about oral delights from the "Ho Garden". It's get's really old, really fast but expect it in American ale houses and sports bars. The 45% unmalted wheat may well account for the milder and less familiar flavor. This beer has been a genuine classic for maybe 5 centuries. Do try it.

Huyghe Blanche des Neiges
RATING: 5.0
Melle/Ghent, Belgium
The color of this BELGIAN WHITE BEER is pale yellow and a touch cloudy. While samples were completely head-less with only thin lace, the flavor was quite full and so distinct from British ales. It has one of the strongest and most fruity 'noses' (aroma) you can imagine. First taste is like apricot nectar but it finishes fairly dry and with more alcohol than expected. Paying $3.00 per tiny 11.2 oz. bottle may offend some but a true enthusiast will be happy. The "Delirium" line seems to have replaced this 1990's series in the US.

Huyghe Delirium Tremens
RATING: 4.5
Melle/Ghent, Belgium
It's very hard to ignor a beer bottled in a what appears to a putty-colored, sprayed-on, ceramic coating with black specklings, glowing in bright sky blue foil, and named for one of the major results of ethanol withdrawl among alcoholics. In the case, one being weened form alcohol or opiates have tremors and sees all sorts of crazing things including bugs on your skin, tiny mystical characters, and even pink elephants. The entire bottle has SEVEN pink elephant on it in case you need some inspiration to get started on the long night. There are also two dancing green alligators on the main label - or so I very much hope. Give me a minute...back, back, back...wrong way...sorry...have to rangle all the baby roaches back into my radial artery; I clearly heard the end-of-recess bell guys! Paranoia, panic attacks, fever, and severe accidents are common. About 5% die with treatment and a full third of anyone not getting some case. The DT's as they are called in the rehab business are a very serious business but in the regular drinking community a source of some fun. You certainly will not suffer from DT with this 8.5% fix of the active ingredient of our choice unless those $4 a bottle charges are hard in this time of economics and you have to settle for Bud Light the rest of the week. I wonder if the caring people in the Bamalot administration will help me out here and give me a bailout check for Huyghe Withdrawl Syndrome and let me stay home from my real job. I can truly say I've experienced this DT several times recently in my kitchen and three times more in my living room. Anywho...it's a very crazy name and concept overall and sort of like McDonald's selling Big Macs with a 600-pound lard ass dude, a pretty casket, and a pristine angiography suite on the box. I'd play that Lottery board game!

Anyhow, Huyghe has been making Belgian ales since 1654 and this is one of the palest yellow beers that has any flavor. A faint haze hangs over it but no much in that way. Lace persists long and the huge foamy white head is classic of something from a recipe this old and juice this pale. The sugar and spicing are weak to moderate and the 11.2 oz. bottle is a nice 8.5% in potency. It is not as fruity as some native and US golden products, the bananas being faint and just a hint of pear and palest grape. Acidity too is low and I like that about it. Orval and Duvel still get my money for special occasion but this is a very nice buy as well...when money is plentiful and the brain sound. It would never call such a fine golden Belgian ale a "light ale" but if one wants something more restrained on this general focus, here is a good choice to serve icy cold.

 Il Dolle Stille Nacht
RATING: 4.0
Esen, Belgium
One you get past the busy label with a smiling snowman wearing a wide grin, drinking a red drink, and waving a star-pointed wand, you come to realize this is not the product of some crazy graphics artist in Oregon or California. Are the Belgian's really this silly and fun? Guess so. Your night will not be silent with a few dozen of these pricey charmers about the winter table. Beer of this quality in some delightful, reasonable quantity does produce noises in a place - many good, some bad, hopefully many of them very pleasant. The brew is bright amber-gold, lace endless, and the head low to moderate in size after an initial inflation. You have much satisfaction, with sweet caramel notes not dominated with spice of all much antipated things. It gives no orange and spice ale in the usual doses. It's quite a sweet malty thing but never monodimensional or boring. Many your seventh one would be boring but by them who cares? I rather like it for being different from the country's usual fare (though not the American Xeroxers) but I do miss some of the spice. If you like substantial, truly interesting "candy beer" this is one really nice liquid lolly to wrap your tongue around.

Jolly Pumpkin Bam Biere Farmhouse Ale
RATING: 4.0
Dexter, Michigan
Maybe it's because I grew up a "cat person" but I don't understand all the dog images on beer labels. I get furocious wolves and Flying Dog's Canis Major concept of tenacous, toothy beers but the rest leave me confused. Generally I don't want to be thinking about canines when consuming a golden fluid except in the overt case of Rogue's wonderful Yellow Snow IPA. It comes out medium-yellow tinged gold but not clearly golden unless sampled in a dark place. It is cloudy, more a swirl of carbonation than yeast, the head very rocky and creamy-white. It is very tart, almost the herbal-spicy mint gum of some Belgian Pales in the Saison style. Dry hopping gives it more merit but it's not an entirely genuine rep of the style. It is too sour for some and not enough for others but Saison is never everyone's tea in any event. It's a crisp product very cold, less impressive if not chilly, and as dry as the dark side of the moon. At 4.5% it's marginally weak but in fairness to JP they do have other stronger labels - which I cannot find anywhere! I judge beers as they are and not part of a line or a "body of work" from a brewery. Therefore, "as is" this one needs work. Remember the Cadillac Cavalier...I mean Cimarron? One is known some places, actually many places, for their weakest items and I hope to be delighted by their other more potent, stellar offerings in future months. 

Kwak Belgian Ale
RATING: 5.0
Buggenhout Belgium
The label proclaims "seductive malt character" and that's about as far as I really need to go. But I can't be shut up so here goes more. It's 8% ABV (well hidden), a cloudy amber, full-bodied for a Belgian ale, never bitter, mid-length lace, and a head as tall as [your analogy here]. The spicing is low so the malt comes out fully without competition. It is only slightly sweet and so it does not fail there - for I like Belgians strong in other aspects, giving the number of sweet brown ales available in the US today. It is more fruity than spicy and that's a point of great distinction ; light cherry and bright citrus comes to mind. Some self-appointed, beer guru-fool somewhere is going to say "no, no, no it's ONLY pear and apple". Have it your way. Fruit mix is fruit enough. Kwak has made beer since 1791 and the work of Pauwel Kwak and it shows. Here's proof (if anyone realy needs it) that Belgian Ales are not monolithic and essentially one recipe in three strengths. Kwak is a real "go to" beer if you're tired of the lethal ethanol, spiced-like-a-pie, richer than necessary Belgian ales of the mass market. It's a breath of very refined, malty and fruity fresh air.

La Trappe Trappist Ale
RATING: 4.0
Tilburg, Holland
Most Trappist ales are associated with Belgium. This product of Tilburg Holland originates from De Schaapskool (Sheep's School). The color is medium amber under a long bubbly head. Lace is very fine and prolonged. The flavor is a real mystery. It is unlike any Belgian Trappist ale we know. The aroma is more fitting Campbell's soup than a beer. It truly has a malty broth-like flavor which Michael Jackson chooses to describe as 'pruny' and 'sherryish'. So odd. It is not that we didn't enjoy it. We simply failed to understand it and thus our experience is broadened. Would we buy it again? Probably not. Would we try it once. Without question. You should too. Lovely bottle.

Lagunitas "We're Only In It for the Money" Belgian Style Triple Ale
RATING: 4.5
Petaluma, California
Never seen a beer labeled with permission of the Zappa Family Trust but this is a California product after all. Frank Zappa himself heads the label with his 1967 quote: "You'll be absolutely free only if you want to be". This label and bottle is a tribue to Frank's experimental album with The Mothers of Invention released in 1968 - this big bottle being a 40th anniversary celebration. It has been added to "The best pyschedelic albums of all time", a top 500 album of all time, and even the Library of Congress picked it for the National Registry of 50 influential recordings in 2005. Jimi Hendrix appears on the album cover and apparently on this beer label too; though don't ask me where. The connection between rock and roll and beer is a rich history to be sure but more can be done. How about "Stairway to Malt Heaven" or "Back in Black Ale". I could easily drink "A Whiter Shade of Pale Ale" and definately "Sweet Home Ale from Bama". Then there might be "Blueberry Hill Wheat Beer", "Alehouse Rock", "Tutti Frutti Lambic", "Every Sip You Take", or "We Will, We Will Bock You". Alright, I guess I ran out of material two or three back.

This stuff is definately in a collectible bottle - I'm keeping mine for 12 years so some idiot on Disney-Apple-CNN-eBay2020 will liberate it from me for a hundred bucks plus shipping. Maybe I should hit Whole Foods tomorrow and pick up a couple more. In the glass it glows a good, bright amber, lace is very substantial and vigorous, the head less impressive or large. Would Frank have liked this. Yes but probably only after 22 or so. It makes them money I guess and he would have approved some of that. It quotes him on a useful, inspiring way. Probably a good tribute all around. But is it a great beer? It's very nice, complex, low spiced, moderately sweet, sufficiently bitter for contrast, carbonated to style, and expertly malted. The stuff is more like a Double Belgian but since their Californians I'll give them one notch plus or minus for error. Things out there are...you know. Considering the quality of the brew and whole novelty label and collectibility, I give it very high marks.

Lefebvre Manneken Pis Blanche de Bruxelles (Belgian White Ale)
RATING: 5.0
Quenast At first glimpse the young (yet bearded) statue on the label seems to be adding Old World class to the label and cap. Upon closer inspection you realize he is doing the unthinkable and actually displaying his beer in its departing form and holding his cherubic blessings at the same time. If you re-read the brew's full name above you may suspect a pun for English speakers is also at work. This all said the contents prove as heavenly as any cloudy, light yellow (we probably should say white) Belgian ale can be. They confess to use of corr- iander, Curaceo orange peels, barley, wheat, plus Hallertau and Styrian hops. This $8.00 fourpack is very much worth buying for the complex, sophisticated mastery of its style - the humor is merely a little bonus.

The Leyerth Urthel HOP IT Superior Hoppy Blonde Ale
RATING:  4.5
Flanders, Belgium
Nearly twenty bills for this special bottle was something of a hard hill for any corked brew to climb, even if a clever, classic Belgian in birth. The 9.5% ABV is a plus but maybe low for price. The head is large and ivory and it carries more haze than the air in a Grateful Dead concert. Lace is shorter than their Quadrium Ale. This "Dutch with a Flemish Touch" is based on Hildegard de Ostaden's visit to the US Pacific Northwest in 2005 where she fell in love with rich hopping and came away convinced of the value of a good IPA. "Hoppy, spicy, and fruity" was the goal. The spicy hops is sure there and rather more intense for a truly blonde ale. Malt must surely be very low given this pale infusion. Bitter in the early notes, it finishes more friendly, and with some complexity suggesting notes of Pilsener mingled with moderate ale fruitiness. I rather like it but am more amazed at the price, marketing, and total symphony of flavors. It is not Mozart or Beethoven but far more on the modern side with notes flying here and there, good notes, even great notes, but not in the traditional neat or orderly manner. This free spirit, hoppy ale is very well made but it does not really seem to be mad or formed at all. It probably happens from a recipe, sometimes direct, other times very discordant, and in the final analysis special without being comforting. It's high art but not warm, fuzzy, or easily accessible art. And the beverage world, we need room for such surprising, unique inventions. I suspect more than a few folks will pony up the greenbacks for a second or third try. It will wake up your beer tasting party and that alone is worth some payout.

The Leyerth Urthel Samaranth Quadrium Ale
RATING:  4.0
Flanders, Belgium
These corked $11.00 bottles (August 2008) yield a bright reddish-amber broth with infinate lace, haze, and good aroma. Starting out a little bitter, it grows sweeter than many Belgian ambers in the finish, more malty than hoppy. No clear spicing. The 11.0% ABV gives you a fine punch for the layout of molded plastic. And I do mean a layout because with a bottle of their fine Hop It Ale, we paid nearly thrity bills for the two wired bottles. Thinking in terms of wine dollars, the value is there,  but given the number of good domestic Belgianoids, I wonder. I found the sweetnes off-putting and yet the apparent lack of alcohol is well guarded. For a celebration and special presentation I'd do these again but for personal drinking or with close friends, the value is not there at the current exchange rate. It is "Dutch with a Flemish Touch" and only brewed FOR the Belgian Leyerth folks.
Liefman's Goudenband b ba 5.0 457 This FLANDERS BROWN ALE is a classic among Belgian ales and is one of the finest beers ever made. The corked bottles sell for $7 or so in the first year and can be aged like wine. We hear the 1986 vintage is perfect. The current 1994 crop is amber brown with abundant lace. The flavor notes are fruity and malty with endless complexity to thrill the tastebuds and the brain. The tartness may suggest to the naive that this is some brown wine cooler. But when the final palate hits you it proves to be a well-crafted beverage of the finest order. World class at any party. Flavor elements include carmel, honey, plum, cherry, malt, and chocolate.

Malmedy Blonde
RATING: 4.5
Rebecq-Quenast, Belgium
Large-bottled and potent to 6.3-7.0%, this stuff is amber-gold with a massive head. Fruit, sweetness, and yeast will jump your tastebuds. Spicing is generally mild. The balance is nice but some people want more spice and complexity for an import; all of which are pricey with dollar's current value. If you like your belgians a bit less potent (and I cannot bear to say "light" this time), here's a nice one to consider.

Mother Earth Weeping Willow Wit
RATING: 3.5
Kingston, North Carolina
This recent addition to the NC microbrews has already thrilled by fresh-hopping their IPA and making it a standout. My first reaction to this name is that Kingstonians will likely be calling this "that thar weeper willer beer" followed by the phrase "right good". Coriander and orange peel are used to make this pour spicy in the nose, very very pale and classic in all appearance elements. It is thin-medium in strength, a bit less than I would like and not quite up to their IPA in impressiveness. I was not expecting 10% ABV - which does of course go a long way into making a knockoff-tribute very believable. If one needs to be lower in the the buzz power, turning up the flavor and spices is a compensating approach that many micro firms take. This is nicely made, clean, not harsh or offensive but neither is it endearing or special. Blue Moon will kick it's tail up and down the bars in Southeast. And that will make some Kingston willers weep.

Musketeers Troubadour Blond Ale
RATING: 5.0
Ursel, Belgium
The name is sometimes spelled Musketiers in beer references but the label says otherwise. Paying $5.99 for a single 11.2 ouncer (Feb. 2009)is a bit of a bad start for any ale. The altocumulus swirl of yeast in the bottle restored my faith in my decision. (I've been badly burned on faux-righteous Belgian offerings before and probably you have too). The color is rich golden, darker gold than expected, cloudy of course, the head creamy, irregular, and mounded. First sip is tart, quickly turning into a rich malty treat. With eyes closed, one might swear this was a brown Belgian of some kind. This is highly malty for a golden anything! I detect little spice, including of the popular vining variety. It's 6.5% ABV, not good nor bad really, and the claimed "fruity esters" did not come out until much later in the single bottle and then only in the dry malt-infused finish. The curtain says blonde but the drapes tell me we have a natural brunette as we got more intimate. This is a remarkable beer and I don't think it needs any more spicing. Very nicely made.

New Belgium Mothership Wit Organic Wheat Beer Brewed with Spices
RATING: 3.5
Fort Collins, Colorado
Wow, this stuff is really "wit", a pale as an albino after 10 years living in a underground cavern. It's one of the lightest yellow beers I've ever seen, in fact. Head is big, white, irreglar, typical of a Belgian white, no lace, but faintly cloudy in the pour. I's certified organic too. Spicing is traditional (coriander, citrus, clove), minty overall, on the moderate side. Only the 4.8% ABV keeps me from believing it was from the old country. That and the price suggest the "bargain Belgian" market in many US states was in their ship's sites. The label shows a small country farm and town from above like the mothership was observing it. The "mothership" is the nickname of their main, sustainable brewing facility. The flavor is very pleasant but I expect higher ABV when a style is imitated this closely and without it there is not much reason for me in a high ABV state to demand it. In the low ABV states...enjoy and sip away for you cannot get better.

New Holland Black Tulip™ Trippel Ale
RATING:  4.5
Holland, Michigan
This brewery is gaining a rep in some circles for being a Rogue of the Midwest - lovely painted bottles, artistic and not in an way outclassing the liquid contents but matching it gold for gold. They are stars, quickly earning their bars and praise with every new offering. From their High Gravity Series, this 9% 19.6 Plato beer is wonderful but mislabeled. The "mysterious, alluring, and seductive" rep of the black tulip is invoked but neither the plant nor the lady seems to have any connection. I would have reserved this name for a blackish stout if anything. I guess the black tulip chick is a substantal blonde in their vocabulary. They describe it as "slight sweet" (yes) with notes of "rock candy", "Michigan sugar beet", "Belgian yeast", and "bananas". Really now? Now that's a head full of images to wrap your brain around. It sounds appetizing and so it is. In my crystal it's gold for sure, the head traditional, and there is more spice than bananas but neither too enveloping. The finish is truly dry as advertised and that transition from sweet fore-note to dry finish is very nicely directed. This Black Tulip, well-named or not, in the final sorting out has seduced me well and full, and I come away fully-favored and thoroughly comforted. A Triple was accomplished. I would not readily put it up against Europe's aureate gems but maybe it's our Corvette to their Porsche; audacity, art, price, and image counting for much. 

North Coast Brother Thelonious Belgian Style Abbey Ale
RATING: 4.5
Fort Bragg CA USA
These big corked bottles in North Coast's American Artisan's Series are thick, brown, and as impressive as the real Belgian product for style and substance of the packaging. The 9.4% ABV brew is very rich reddish-brown, actually one of the most red ales we've seen in years. The head is dark tan and the lace will last longer than any of us can wait. The Thelonious Monk Institute devoted to great jazz music gets $2 a case for this stuff and if ya'll like the stuff as I do, they'll be adding new wings any day now. The high ABV is immediately clear, not disturbing though, and the malt is less so, sufficient but no Mother-of-all-Malt-Bombs here. It is as smooth as something that ethanol-potent could be and yet it lacks some of idiosyncratic feel of the real European product. As the joke goes...they might have the gotten their monks confused. If one were to extended the analogy (and I can never resist), the real abbey ales are a bit more jazzy, an acquired taste, and subtle. This is polished, mainstream, Top 40 jazz, respectable but not going to wow all the gurus and abbey addicts. It's fluent, untroubling, highly competent like a bone-boring Japanese generic coupe, and also that phrase we all use when we're trying to be polite but just slightly disappointed - "very drinkable". I favor it for the polish and good-brewing values and not the lack of oddness. There are different approaches to quality and not all of them are this factory clean. Is getting rid of abbey ale complexity in the form of odd flavors a good thing? Yes and no both. Here's a computer-automated abbey and one gets all that such an approach will allow.
 
North Coast Pranqster Belgian Style Golden Ale
RATING: 4.5
Fort Bragg CA USA
As usual North Coast has added quality to quality and produced a remarkable domestic ale in the Belgian style. It does not have the potent nip of the real thing (likely because of alcohol content) but it has the authentic flavor and richness. At $8.00 a sixpack it was no bargain as domestic "Belgian styles" often are. It was a pleasant experience even if not an economical one. The gray tone illustration on the label with a room full of chubby faced, smashed guys swiling the ale sets the tone for the experience they are selling. If you look closely (and that is usually the next day) the brewmaster's head is glued onto one of these plump, jovial bodies in the right corner.

Ommegang Ommegeddon Funkhouse Ale
RATING: 5.0
Cooperstown, New York
There are many memorable things from Cooperstown, most of them made of hardwoods, tarnished bronze, and dry, desicated leather. Some of that lot shares the mustiness of this brew and here is an All-Star for this season at least. Brettanomyces ("Brett" to brewmasters) was added to the batch to make a brew that pours an amber so cloudy it might be fresh-squeezed, pulpy apricot juice. If I fermented apricot juice with malt and yeast and funk my junk and trunk, the result might be similar - were I to have any beverage-making skills. It smells of a fruity Belgian gold. ABV is 8%, moderate and well-judged in this formula. Brett can be good in a wine but is generally avoided. It is found in Lambics, Flanders Red Ales, and the occasional milk stout.

The bright scarlet and gold mushroom cloud of earth's final conflict on the label might be more appropriate for a 15% Barleywine but we get their aim to go all-out, nothing held back. It is very smooth beverage for the ABV is not excessive and the flavors of diverse, complex fruit well matched to other notes of faint spice, lemon, toasted bread, and assorted funky, earthy flavors that Brett will give us. They admit it's funky and that is good upfront admission - better than having reviewers not be sure it was intended and hating it somewhat. They made it presentable, easy on the buds, and not overly sour - and that is all about goodness, crispness, authentic yeast-fruit, and real poise. Not a few reviewers agreed with my pal James who said "A more approachable Orval, less ethanol but I don't miss it, fruitier that it, and in some respects just as rewarding". I found it a sure nectar-of-the-gods and if Ommegeddon comes I'll be drinking with my God and angels something almost as good up there. Here's a well-designed brew with elegance and funk, as supple and smooth as a mellow jazz crew on a warm Sunday evening, bursting out occasionally with savory bursts, not so much wild as a bit raw and comfortable. It is ambrosial in the true sense and I do not bring out that word very often - last time was for my Aunt's fruit salad c. 1973 with extra luscious orange bits, toasted marshmellows, and just the right amount of soft, thin coconut flakes. Ommegeddon is like delectable, liquid fruit salad stuffed into a warhead and about to daisycut my tastebuds five miles wide.

Ommegang Witte (Wheat Ale with traditional spices)
RATING: 4.5
Cooperstown, New York
This is said to be a traditional Belgian White brewed in upstate NY with considerable experience from the old country. 5.1% ABV is hardly traditional and not what is expected for such as large, thick, and brown a vessel. Coriander, sweet orange peel, lemon, and unmalted yeast are used. Very fine-textured (not clumpy) and wispy yeast fill the bottle to a small degree. The flavor is supposed to be "as bright and soft as summer clouds over a Flanders field". It's more like a low dosing, spiced German wheat over the Field of Dreams. It is one of the palest yellow, non-light beers I've seen, cloudy also, but with a very white, foamy head. This is truly a Spiced Hefe-weizen in essence and I'm not telling any secrets with that classification; not a few Belgians made with some wheat really are that take on the German style.

Don't let it warm much or a metallic madness will come to the pallet now and again. It is slightly sweet and Pils in the mid notes, but dryness comes to the finish as do the wonderful, rounded out spices. I admire it and like it but there's no romance in the swirly chemistry. The low ABV will please some on drinkability and price points but offend others who like their Belgian golden elixirs with more nip and a more bracing brain buster. Their website calls it "a heavenly bite of orange chiffon cake". That's not going blow away or endear either the brewing and Belgian-loving beer communities anytime soon. This is perhaps intended to be an easy, accessible Belgian gold, made in the States to save money, not complex in fermentation or yeasting, a thing much above the average bar fare. Bargain, domestic Belgians are not a new idea (Celis was one pioneer) but we usually end up paying more for the real stuff. It is above most of bar offerings but not nearly eclipsing the best spiced Belgian blondes or German wheats. I can go elsewhere and get more or be happy with this if it's the best available at the time.

 
Orval Trappist Ale
RATING: 5.0
Triple fermentation including slow bottle fermentation plus dry-hopping and an exclusive single-cell yeast produce a very unique ale. The color is cloudy light amber with a lasting head. Hallertau and Goldings hops come through a slightly citric and acid start. It finishes fruitful and hoppy with the kind of detail you'd expect from such an elaborate brewing process requiring about 4 months. Few beers are worth $4.00 for 11.2 ounces and that was 1992. This is a true classic. When I first sampled it in 1993 it was best Belgian I'd ever tasted and it still ranks very much among the finest ever.

If you had to pick just 10 beers to spend the rest of your life with on a deserted island...make that desserted island...this would make many beer guru's lists. Heck. They just might say send me those 10 cases and make all of them Orval. It is truly amongst the finest beers planet-wide in any category. Rating this trappist treasure in numbers or words makes us all feel silly for the exactness of the perfection is obvious. "Yes, this new $325,000 Bentley Convertible with 900 horsepower, matching luggage, and a full-time, live-in factory technician to care for it is well...um...kinda nice. It sure beats that Toyoto Yaris sardine can-with-wheels can I tested last week". Orval Trappist is far above being a standard by now. Calling it legendary or a classic is not enough. Try out: fabled, glorious, a pinnacle plus a mile higher, and the unreal ideal.

Petrus Dubbel Bruin Ale
RATING: 4.5
Bavikhove, Belgium
A "Dubbel" that comes out to just 6.5% ABV?!?! That makes it drinkable with more meals perhaps. Color is very dark, translucent enough. Head is very tall, large-bubbled, and a good, showy pour overall. Four-paks linked by a collar around the neck (these make me very nervous!) are the usual American marketing experince. The malts are very complex and so are the fruits. I get cherry drenching me quickly and then a little caramel and rum. The tartness suggests almost a Lambic x Brown Ale blend - and I have tried many of these for fun. It will be very different to most American beer drinkers so it's good for beer tasting unless you have an experienced gang. Too much sweetness occured to some of us but I think the idea of sweet brown lambic is a truly spectacular idea.

De Proef K-O Blond Beer
RATING: 4.5
Lochristi, Belgium
Dick Naudts in his scientific lab in western Flanders came up with this supercharged, 10% ABV, that is more WWE than a respectable, state-sanctioned boxing match in Peoria. Born of "science and passion", this big bottle has a sauve maltiness unusual for a pale product. It pours dark gold, a big cream head, nice lace. It has an earthy, corn-fed malt bedrock suggestive of many Germany ambers and moderate-strength darks. The word "beer" instead of "ale" got my attention and despite the German lager-like flavor I am assured it's a Belgian strong ale in basic classification; the muscular, malty, rabid character being a surprise in every round and jumping off every turnbuckle when ou least expect it. Spicing is light but yet it reminds me of German lagers with each new sip; though the faint, extra flavor dimensions and EtoH are appreciated! Thank you, Prof. Naudts! There is candy sugar goodness at first and of course the high "active ingredient" tends to spin that down to dehydration and a loving bite. I'd have used more fruit (yeast or herbal) but the concept of a premium corn-malt ale in pugilistic trim, wearing amber glittering trunks, and ready to slug you with sugar, roasted goodies, and ethanol when we're comfortably against the ropes - is spectacle of sorts. A full glass of this may be more of TKO than a savage, sudden KO but the result is the same. This is more of a verdict on points than an old, crude, crimson, thugish-beatdown but either way I'm slobbering malt bubbles on the mat. Why does the ref look so much like Ginny, the corner man my mother-in-law, and why am I naked in the living room as the Deaconesses run for the nearest door?

De Regenboog Vuuve Ale Brewed with Spices
RATING: 5.0
Brugge, Belgium
While just 5% ABV, this unusual product is made with 60% barley and 40% wheat malt, some coriander for flavor, and evidently a large amount of orange peel. The large background of overlapping orange slices on the label should have been my clue but I'd didn't notice at first. The low ethanol lets one enjoy the flavors unaided or unaffected but it will never be traditional at such low horsepower. Color is medium yellow, not quite a gold, lowish lace levels, and a nice near white head. The aroma is odd, part fruit and part New Jersey chemical factory - not traditional by any means. This is one of those "drink don't inhale" brews. It is oddly mellow in some notes, quite tart and orange in others, fruit going on forever plus a century. It is a very quirky beer, extreme by design I assume, one of the most tart ales on earth. Hops is very light and malt not existant for me - though I would not overlook the possibility of some malt notes strumming a low bass not in the background that my tastebuds have ignored.

One friend who beer opinions I trust said "this is either a very bad beer or a stellar one" and unlike me he didn't have to decide and put his cowardly opinion in print! Belgians are no fools in most any realm and in the brewing realm one needs to assume genius. I remember a college prof telling me my wacky poem was either an A+ and an F and I ended up explaining my thoughts and got the preferred grade. Maybe Vuuve needs an explanation just like it's label. The spelling of the name on the label is curious. The two U's with either eyes or areola; and if were them I'd admit to neither. Belgian Citrus Ale would be a good classification for this one and I for one found it fascinating and exhilerating at low temps. Give it a try. It's a bit rare so buy it up instead. I hav a feeling it will become a cult classic, the kind of beer those expensive trendy bars charge $10 for in a glass. If you want to tease, temp, and test the members of you beer-tasting party this is a very, very smart pick.

Br. Roman Sloeber Ale
RATING: 4.0
Oudenaarde, Belgium
A "sloeber" in Flemish is someone who indulges in cool stuff but with naughty bent. Sloebers to some are wild epicurians and by some translations quite devilish in fact, perhaps just crazy scamps. This 7.5% pours a light yellow, mostly clear, the head ivory and large at first. The spicing is hardly there though some citrus peel is evident to me. It is more malt-supported than I would have expected and that bit of depth saves it in my opinion. Frankly, I'd almost rather have a bit malt in a golden ale than a fake, facade of spicing which even a 4-year-old could master in a recipe. Mouthfeel is lighter than many Belgian whites but the moderate-strong malt is what keeps it from being dull. I found it best nearly at room temp and not as appealing very cold. It's a different experience, more a marketing thing I suppose overall, and not truly memorable in terms of the ale itself. I should have mentioned before that the bottle shows several dancing white bottles wearing socks for hands and having glowing scarlet sunglasses. Their feet seem separate from their bodies. Sloebers I suppose.

La Rulles Triple
RATING: 5.0
Rulles, Belgium
These Belgian bottles are so hard to alphabetize. The company is Brasserie Artisanale de Rulles and the label shows "La Rulles" in large letters - I guess that puts them with the R's. These big Champagne-like bottles are capped and not corked - I guess my $11 was not enough plastic cash for that! Actually it was less trouble so I'm okay with the lack of hardware. It's unfiltered, unpasteurized, and bottle-conditioned, reaching a blessed 8.9% of the good stuff. It's one of the most yeast-dense Belgians I've ever poured and that should be a good thing. It's cloudy dark gold at every pour - and I do mean early to late pours of all angles and intensities. Lace is boundless and the off white head grows quickly. It is spiced to favor spearmint in the early notes and one does not get much more than that in my opinion. I suppose it could be cloves but I'm not inclined to counter my first chemical instinct. I'm not saying they use spearmint just that is comes off that way. Faint coriander is there and so is rich sugaring. 

Primary fermentation is 10-12 days with dark candy sugar added for the secondary work in bottles. Kegs give it more power after 4 additional weeks. Orval's yeast is used. I was even more shocked to find out they use Warrioer and Amarillo hops from Washington State. Wow! That's a New World-Old World hybrid if ever there was one. Ancient fermention and Orval yeast with Yakima's finest?!? How do they leap around and blend tradition like that? Easy. The Brasserie Artisanale La Rulles was started in the ancient year of....2000. This is peachy stuff, the nectar of secondary fermenting gods, made better by American hops and one of the brewing world's most respected yeasts. I like it very much very cold and much less even a few degrees warmer. 5-bottlers become 3-bottlers in one damn hurry. You could sip this stuff all day and I have. Two bottles taken down slowly gets you ready for a good slumber like a fistful of Benadryl taken before a C-SPAN Congressional Hearing Marathon.

Red Hook Tripel Belgian Style Ale
RATING: 4.5
Woodinville, Washington/Portsmouth, New Hampshire
These $6.99 large bottles are partly affordable one reason. Red Hook has printed a Limited Edition bottle with their logo and only then affixed colorful labels in the center for each individual label. There is good economy in that way of labeling. This 10.2% ABV triple is very dark gold, loaded with vanilla, cinnamon, and clove flavors and pleasant in every respect. It is more pleasant and easy drinking than overwhelming. It's a good copy like a Honda Accord V6 might pass for a BMW 325 once and awhile but not all the time, on every stretch, and on every curve. Sometimes you want 92% of a great thing for less money and other times it's all about performance and money be damned. This is a fine product, a worthy copy of a venerated style but not a head-to-head, all-out competitor in my opinion. Again, $6.99 for what would be $9.99-14.99 with other labels, some of them American, is not a bad compromise - sometimes at least. 

Rogue's Mo's Ale
RATING: 4.0
Newport, Oregon
Rogue's of that other, western Newport makes this unfiltered Belgian-style ale in honor of Mo and Dutch Niemi who are honored in the local waterfront community. Both the flavor and rich yellow-orange color suggest a fruity apricot-filled beer. The lower alcohol content clearly distinguishes it from the similarly fruity Belgian whites. It is logical to compare this to Celis White (Austin TX) and of course any real Belgian nectar you can procure. While this one overflows with flavor and craftsman-like detail we prefer the alcohol-drenched punch of the real thing and some of its odd idiosyncratic notes that only a lab chemist could describe. As to value you will get two or three times the fluid for the buck and that is in its favor. Well worth a taste test.

Saint Bernardus Grotten Flemish Ale (Pierre Celis Signature Selection)
RATING:  4.0
Watou, Belgium
The massive bottle becomes a miniature of the world's largest lava lamp as lace ascends upward, causing the generous yeasty particles of variable sizes to dance up and down and occasionally sideways in the vertical column of golden exhuberance. I've never seen such a show in any bottle of beer at any time. The straw-toned yellow fluid produces a head larger than some Flemish houses in near white shades. Lace subsides minutes after uncorking but it was quite a spectacle for some time. Pierre Celis, who is loved and hated, mostly adored by real ale fans know him for saving so much traditions since 1966 or so - or mauling them in a few, elitist opinions that you and I should absolutely dismiss. He is known for his Texas-based Celis operation as well as the wonderful white beers of Hoegaarden. Miller took over his Celis operation, ruined it by most accounts, and has closed as of 2001. His Texas operation will probably reimmerge I as write this under the guidance of Real Ale Brewery of Blanco, TX, a town name which conveniently means "white'" in Spanish.

This 7.7% production of Pierre's is described as "unique" and the already described carbonation and yeast show is enough for me to adhere that adjective. It's lightly spiced, very creamy and smooth, faint malt support in the finish, and a quality yet muffled herbal hops approach in all taste points. I would have expected it more fruity for the colassal quanity of the yeast particles. An ale of this type can hardly be rated by a small glass (how convenient!!!!) and one needs several pours over some minutes to give it a fair assessment. I poured and dispensed some more until all the alledged complexity was hashed out. There is more fruit in some pours and I sometimes love a tall crystal glass (highly etched and cut Ralph Lauren being the favorite) to allow one to get a good sample. Some I pour direct for a large head and yeasty splash, others slower and more gentle, a third inbetween. I felt that for the $11.00 price it was a tad week in spicing though one cannot expect Celis or any other brewer to be traditional in all their labels. For a "Signature Selection" one expects all the stops on the pipe organ pulled out and all the flavor notes full or subtle with a quality that elevates the oral-neural buds to heaven. It is not complex or full enough (it could be either or both) and ends up being a lighter tasting version of what I should be at this price and marketing level. I take price and value very seriously and even as a $5.99 750ml bottle I'd have it placing at 4.0. We do not get worldclass values here as pleasant and rousing it gets at times.

Saint Bernardus Trippel
RATING: 5.0
Watou, Belgium
The 8.0% is lowish for a Triple but I'm less inclined of late to demand 9-12% ABV when it gets in the way of the relaxing, sip-worthy experience. I like my punches to arrive slowly and with affection; not the brutal KO for it's own sake. "My ethanol is bigger than yours!". Triples and Quads and male egos. Let's just make awesome ales and forget the names and faulty taxonomies and the Global Ethanol Escalations. The lovely painted bottle shows a smiling priest holding the glowing, rich gold fluid aloft. Thank the Lord he's delighted to be slurping on a young, golden creature of the legal, liquid variety. It pours cloudy gold, medium to dark side, ample yeast floating about from even a weak, early pour. The bottle reveals under light such a chunky hop and malt soup they might slap a Campbell's label on it sometime. The lace is decent and the creamy head lasts long and smells fabulous; and I use that word in a manly, beer-drinking, he-man, sort of way. The flavor is the Belgian Philharmonic playing Pleckman's Swing March at full volume.

There is no golden fruited ale as pleasant on the planet. The pomological notes are crisp and elegant, banana for sure, densely squeezed but not tart orange, and good yeast esters overall. As you get deeper and more saturated into the bottle, the malt foundation becomes appreciated, especially if sipping at a warmer temp. This golden nectar is as complex as the engineering schematics to the Space Shuttle and it floats as high and impresses as quickly. The sweetness is there but well controlled. There is supreme sense and sensibility in this bottle. It can be aged up to 5 years for even more heaven. Some people think it's too pale, too low in ethanol, and not malty enough for a Belgian Triple. Here we have a certain demonstration, as the Belgians often give us, that names and styles are open to regional variation, artistic brewer's license, and special interpretation. Is an American Pale Ale sweet or dry and what hops must they always use and are you allowed to have any malt with it and must it always be brown or can it be dark gold? Belgians bend and innovate and have done so for centuries. Styles will not so much converge as diverge in such a rich, ancient brewing culture; especially when time, personalities, and unexplained traditional gets stamped onto the program. If you want your Triples different than this sparkling rock then go elsewhere. You have lots of elsewhere. There's room for all of us and our preferences and I for one adore this exalted, expertly crafted ale.

Saint Landelin
RATING: 5.0
France
This Blond Abbey Ale is from the Crespin Monastery of France. We are class- ifiying it with Belgian Ales as you'd never tell the difference. It has that same strong nectar-filled and spice-enriched quality that one could it until dawn - and some of us did/. (We'll spare you the songs). Reviewers noted 'total quality from first sniff to last milliliter on the palate... mid-strength alcohol intensity' and 'outranks many Belgian abbey imports and all US clones in my opinion but not up to to Blance du Bruges'. Others noted the lovely stained glass label but they may not always arrive in untorn condition. If we did a perfect mathematical computation it would rank about a 4.85 or 4.9 since a few found a 'low spot' in flavor depth.

Samuel Adams Imperial White
RATING: 5.0
Boston, Mass.
From the Imperial Series, first seen here in 2009, this glowing cloudy amber is "wit" or "white" in name only, being very strong and richly colored. Where it a shade browner it would be put in the other section. Head is everlasting cream, the lace very strong. Coriander and citrus is moderate with maybe a plus to be added there. The mouthfeel is thick but it is not oversweetened as one might easily be tempted to inflict upon the drinker - especially at the 4 bottle for $10 retail price. The goal was to "push out the boundaries of the witbier" and frankly they are not alone in that. ABV is 10.3% which is very close to my boundary. There is comforting sweetness enough to cloak the ethanol and yet good spice and malt moments without it being Triple or Quad dense and cloying.

This is not your father's Samuel Adams for those of you who've come drooling, crawling, hop-crazed, and stumbling to the SA altar in recent years. They've pushed themselves and asked us to follow; and for the most part we all have. They've gotten rich and famous and have yet to sell out. Lord help American brewing if SA goes from pounds per barrel to waving a single dry hop over the kettle for three seconds and calling it a genuine lager. They've had occasional misses, nothing horrible ever, more missed opportunities in fruited things and wheat variants. This is very clearly a bullseye by any measure; potent, yet comforting and pleasant, sip-worthy but never weak or odd in any flavor passage, effortless in it's pleasing ways. It's a brew-syrup without the sucrose overload, thick in the best possible way, balanced as if they've made it for three centuries in brown robes, impressive without being idiocyncratic and "oddy European".  One could argue a faint flavor point here or there if one likes more citrus than coriander or less malt in a strong white, etc. I am too busy enjoying my first four-pack here to quibble on miniscule, reviewer's points which tonight would hinder my pleasure. I find nothing major or minor to improve and will not slurp and swirl until a one note in a hundred raises a question. There will be no nit-picking this eve. There's naught but delight here. Sip and sip well, my friends. Better four like this than a dozen of peasant grade. Now I run to the castle for the last bottle...someone hand my dark brown Snuggie™ will ya...

Samuel Adams Summer Ale
4.0 765 Boston MA According to the brewers this is a new class: AMERICAN WHITE ALE. (and we don't mean that stiff-looking fellow always re-inventing government and measuring ozone patches). Color is very pale yellow (like a BELGIAN WHITE ALE). The head is big and the lace half what a Belgian master would tolerate. Lemon zest and 'Grains of Paradise' ('a long forgotten and mysterious brewing spice') are used in the European tradition. First of all, the potent alcohol zip of a BELGIAN WHITE is missing. Depth and charisma are missing. It is more on the order of a refreshing CITRUS WHEAT beer with emphasis on subtleness and need for very low temperatures. We applaud their initiative but they need to do more and do it better to found a new class. So far Celis of TX has a superior Belgian copy.

Samuel Adams White Ale
RATING: 4.0
Boston, Massachussetts/Cincinnati, Ohio
Officially this is an 'American ale brewed with spices in the classic Belgian style'. The 'intricate blend of unusual spices' presumably includes the usual coriander, orange peel, and maybe nutmeg. It is a densely cloudy pale golden ale with a whitish head of appreciable duration. Of course you Belgian ale aficionados note the beloved zap of higher alcohol is missing (for legal distribution reasons no doubt) but much of the rest is there. Some felt the spicing was 'too prominent' or 'overt'. Another noted that a refined herbal mintiness of many Belgian whites was missing - though we might recall such brands were called a 'light mouthwash' by one detractor. It seems a reasonable compromise but in this form it will not replace the real thing.

Southhamption Double White
RATING: 4.0
Wilkes-Barres, Pennsylvania
"Brewed and served in the house that beer built", the Southhamption Publick House is partly the work of the "obsessive brewmaster" Phil Markowski. This cloudy brew is based on unmalted wheat and the flavor is good, towards the medium or moderate side. The traditional coriander is added to both orange and lemon peel - spicing in sound balance, again on the moderate, intermediate side. At just 6.6% ABV it is no replica of real Belgian product as often found nor do I expect they wanted it so. The label does talk about mastery of the style but they're no fools and know this low ABV version is not going to pass the "abbey test" anytime soon. This is a more effortness, accessible, mass market version for the American market; a fun and capable introduction to spiced ales. It lacks snap, ethanol drenching, and odd abbey flavors but served icy cold it will drive away those sweaty summer blues. It's not bad in the dead of winter either - just not excellent.

St. Feuilien Special Blonde Ale
RATING: 5.0
Le Roeulx, Belgium
Since 1873 the Friart family has made traditional Belgian ales such as this one which is pale and double fermented. Color is the familiar cloudy pale yellow of the style. The head is big, rocky, and persistant. It has all the rich herbal hops flavor of the BELGIAN WHITE heritage but with perhaps less strong alcohol than some. While many Belgian and French blond ales have a similar light, crisp, refreshing flavor this one has an extra measure of refinement and polish. The squat 11.2 oz. bottles are beautifully painted with a cozy city scene - smaller bottles are typical of Belgian products. Reviewers noted 'malt, mint, bitter herbs blended to liquid perfection' and 'Absolutely the ideal respresentative of the style...as perfect as they get'.

St. Feuilien Special Brune Ale (Brown Ale)
RATING: 5.0
Belgium
Le Roeulx Brasserie Friart produces this twice fermented BELGIAN BROWN ALE which actually appears as a lightly hazed amber under a ivory head of immense size. It carries a pleasant sweet malt character of many German darks but yet keeps one foot in the less heavy amber world so as to be more refreshing. It is a very culti- vated balance between richness and smooth, drinkable excellence; a state one rarely finds but is most apparent when confronted. If you need an ideal example of a superb BELGIAN BROWN or DARK ABBEY STYLE ALE there are none any finer. Some may prefer one or another French label but we would strongly recommend putting any of them (despite their impressive corks and elegant bottles) up against these 11.2 ounce wonders of the brewing world.

St. Paul Special b b 3.5 684
No we didn't misclassify this one. It is not St. PauliWe've had their Double (glitter and all) and their Blonde before. The bottle may have the biggest height to width ratio in the business - to you in Little Rock that means: right skinny. One reviewer thought the brand has a future in sales within adult bookstores. Color is bright pumpkin amber and the head is nearly too overwhelming like many Belgian beers. Flavor is Pils but a measure fuller. The comment that it's 'like an AMBER PILS' is most direct. While the depth of flavor is sufficient the entire harmony a little off. We're not too' sure how to explain it. It is one of those brews where Pilsoid power seems to alternate with watery notes and then malt then some sweetness and back again. The theme is not so consistant. It WILL generate varied opinions for you too. Whether in the large or smaller 12 oz. bottles, the bottle fermentation is a work of great art, a strong golden ale of immense quality and highly complimentary, luscious flavors.

Sterkens Dubbel Ale
RATING: 4.0
Meer, Belgium
This dark amber ale has a full lace and mid-sided head of good duration. While clear it has a moderate to full flavor of yeast. Even with the word 'Dubbel' on it this ale is not very strong in flavor or alcohol. Indeed among the amber brown Belgian ales it seems to be one of the thinner ones. Still it is quite pleasant and satisfying. But at $13.49 (March 2000) we would have hoped for a big punch and a tad more complexity.

Thirsty Dog Cerberus
RATING: 5.0
Akron, Ohio
 Sampling this brew was something a of recurring, deja vu moment all over again, blasting from the past. Actually our collective beer-adled brain was close enough for comfort. There is another dog-themed beer named for a three-headed hound from hades. That would be Flying Dog Kerbros Tripel - different spelling but similar idea and execution. These gold-foiled 4-packs look from the Old World for all the world - at least not from Akron. Their approach is probably not wrong as on my retailers Belgian-only shelf they fit in well with the real thing and one would be hard pressed to sort this one out as an American entry.

This brew pours medium gold with no hint of yeasty deposit and a short but lasting head in old ivory shades. ABV is a whopping 10%, fitting a tripel and one would again be hard-pressed to separate it from the genuine malty, spicy beast. So which dog is king of the tricapitate creatures? The Thirsty version is a marked way finer, both in presentation and actual flavors. This veritable copy of the vaunted euro-classic style is Memorex and Zerox faithful. It is one of the best American products in the the Belgique market and while 90% of the copies are weak in ethanol, this one comes up with real goods in every way. For me, nothing is missing and it neither tastes like spiced lager nor golden mouthwash - which is a not uncommon, sad outcome from our shores. Here is a reasonably priced domestic which tastes like it spent weeks on a boat and had some balding, brown-robed, pious dude lovingly transfer it from cask to bottle. A friend of mine said this is a American "hail mary" play but given the church connection to abbey ales, that might offend someone somewhere - but I don't care 'cause I'm a radical libertarian Baptist and these days offending the robed, lacy clergy might just might spare your innocence. But in the case of Cerberus please savor and swallow. Cerberus is a honest rendition of an Old World treasure, a loving and impressively executed version steadfast to the world standard. It's a new American Tripel Ale benchmark and you can carve your bench with the wild face of a three-aged pitbull any time now.

Tournay Traditional Belgian Beer
RATING: not graded yet
Belgium
I bought a single 11.2 oz. bottle of this at my local beer store for $5.59 and figured it to be some basic, 7% Belgian golden ale. First sniff was skunky and then It poured a hazy gold with only the least bit of wit bier spicing and many other perplexing things. The font size on the label is so minute I doubt the world's most observant gnat could read it while sitting on the bottle itself! I do see a pretty bridge with trees so an attempt was made to be artful but the whole scene is very dark and not ready for primetime in the scale, colors, and brightness used. As the skunkiness shows it had some age on it, and such is only tolerable in a golden lager (if then), I will reserve my judgment for another batch and time. It was far from out of date (02/2011 in 06/2010) but with just a single bottle I will not score it yet.

Unibroue Blanche de Chambly White Beer on Lees
RATING: 4.5
Chambly, Quebec, Canada
The huge white head covers a light yellow brew with moderate but sufficient spicing and just 5% of the active ingredient. One can get a similar formula in the stronger flavored and 9% Don-De-Dieu version but I find a reason for both to exist. This is more easy drinking on a hot day, served icy fresh in fancy glasses or just any mug hanging around the garage; well, almost any mug. The same recipe (I suppose) for a cold night is the Don-De-Dieu which needs slower sipping and more leisurely contemplation.

Unibroue Don-De-Dieu Ale on Lees
RATING: 5.0
Chambly, Quebec, Canada
Of the more than seven varieties of Unibroue's expertly made Canadian, Belgian-style ales this is one of the very top. This 9% ABV elixir using wheat is Pilsoid gold with enduring lace and a fast-erupting near white head of fine texture. The merger of traditional spices with yeast fruitiness is as fine as anything from the Old Country and perhaps better than many of them. The complimentary flavors unite in a golden ale that is full strength and full warmth, yet silky smooth. The effort is remarkable and it never lets one down. I have paid as little as $2.29 a small bottle in 2009 and that is a supreme value when bars are selling half-warm Corona crap for 3 bucks. This is a true delight and a real masterpiece. It is essentially a stronger version of their Blanche de Chambly and frankly there is a time for both.

Unibroue Quatre-Centieme Commenoratif Ale on Lees
RATING: 4.5
Chambly, Quebec, Canada
This amazing product commemorates the 400th year of settlement of Quebec City (1608-2008). If that's not enough a rather interesting history lesson is finely painted on the bottle along with a very realistic, shadowed facsimile of a printed label - very neat print work there folks. Bottle collectors not this and get one. They have even "tampoed" on the UPC code and it works very well too. ABV is 7.5% and the color is light yellow, steady but moderate lace, tall but short-lived head, and a curious mixed aroma. It is not so spiced as yeasty, moderate for the pale Belgian style but easily consumed in all it's haze-making, potent saucy way. It reminds some people of a strong ethanol wheat beer and there is some insight with that thought. Malt is weak, citrus is at some moments but stronger at other points. It is overall on the dry-bitter side but you get generic honey sweetness in the earlier notes. You get quote a range of effects depending on the temp, the oral duration, and as with all cloudy-yeasty things the actual pouring points. A later "dregs pour" is the most inviting and surprisingly that cannot be said of all yeasted Belgians. And oh yes! This is a Canadian copy.

There are probably 32 things that need to be delivered to make a golden Belgian-style ale good and some brands accentuate a particular 3 or 7 things. Ditto for barbeque sauce and Cabernet. I always get letters when I compare beer or cars or plants to women but I refuse to stop. Men understand better and women do if they'd just admit it. God knows they compare us to far less pleasant things. This one is the gorgeous, leggy blonde with her biology degree instead of a nail saloon certificate. This blonde is however not the one finishing her Neurology Internship at Hopkins driving the black Z8 roadster. When is enough enough, satisfying just right, and yet one knows there is more out there? We have all the good stuff here (the chick analogy has ended) but perhaps the recipe has different high or low points than some of us like best in the style. This is a commemorative beer and not a regular thing so they have done very, very well to make it a bit different and special. Here's to another 400 and please don't wait that long to tickle us with lace and fruit again!

 Unibroue St-Hubert
RATING: 4.5
Chambly, Quebec, Canada
This north-of-the-border product has lots of carbonation in the golden stuff, fruit-filled to a high degree, more malty than hoppy, and quite earthy on the yeast meter. Coriander and fruit appear quickly. It's not overbearing nor too acidic. The finish is occasionally ragged and too muddled for some tastes but it's very near to perfection if you like this style quite fruity.

Val-Dieu Abbey Blonde Ale
RATING: 3.5
Aubel, Belgium
The 6% ABV analysis of this light yellow ale is surprising low for the style. The recipe goes back centuries at this very old abbey. It is "partly filtered" yet unpasteurized. The head is immense and substantial in off white. Lace moderate for the style. The flavor was disappointing, almost like a bad North American copy in fact, the flavor elements of the tradition there but the execution far from excellent. Even with it dates 14 months from expiration, it found off notes and some "dead places" near the finish. This is Belgian Blonde Light if such a style should exist in name. I was not impressed in the least. Move on to their Triple for a golden beer but even better try other things first.

Val-Dieu Triple Ale
RATING: 3.5
Aubel, Belgium
Their Triple adds 3% ABV to the 6% of the Blonde for a more potent presentation. Color is darker (more gold than yellow this time). I found the flavor much superior to their Blonde which at best was vapid, uninspiring, and feeble. This stuff has flavor, more malt than expected, less spice and fruit than I'd like, and yet still off the standard I have in my brain. This label too was months from it's "best buy" date and with the brown bottles from a dark shelf, it should be a fair test. I must say this recipe too was a waste of time and money. The website calls it "progressive but never excessive" so I'm hoping they get excessive at some point and improve the stuff. While I normally my Belgian liquids on the pale side, I found their Brown/Brune product the only one of the three (Blonde/Triple/Brune) to be desirable.

Van Eecke Kapittel Watou Belgian Abbey Ale
RATING: 3.5
Watou, Belgium
Can we get a Beer Stimulus Bill from Congress!?! These tiny 11.2 oz. Belgian bottles for $5.99 a clip are starting to cut into my political donation money. (I never had done that and never will but it sounds good in my emails to Senator Porktrough). This little bottle holds a potent 10% ABV nectar, cloudy gold, big lace, very swirly yeast in all bottles, and the head yellowish-cream. Like their Hommel Ale, which I found a horrible representative of the style, this bottle too was strangely flavored even though abbey ales usually hold their structure and quality well over months. I must assume the sensibilities and preferences of the Watau folks is far different from those elsewhere. May I was just Orvaled and Duveled to death in my early beer years; and now I can think of a golden Belgian no other way. But generally I'm quite open-minded and appreciate new things (expect one legendary abbey preference) and yet this one fails to get me happy or informed or excited on any level. The malts are very earthy, very odd to me, very crude at some passages, faintly metallic, other times medicinal, not in the form of stale beer though, and very off-putting. There are pops of corn, biscuit, very faint citrus, and faint yeast flavors in the entire, cluttered, shabby mix. I like a good corny-hominy malt ale but this is something far different and in a class by it's sorry self. I found other American reviewers who mentioned things going wrong for them, "diluted", and "wierd" notes with this label. I'll not bother with another Van Eecke except to keep the next volume full and by no means with any hope of personal enjoyment. 

Van Eecke Poperings Hommel Ale
RATING: 3.5
Watou, Belgium
The presentation on this $14.99 ale was impressive. It was champagne-corked and capped and then enclosed in a photographically bright metal canister showing the brewery and brewing. It pours straw yellow with much sediment visible in the bottle. The head is very long-lived, cream in hue, and mountainous. The word "hommel" means hops by the way. Nose is earthy but not full strong. It sips very free of hops bitterness in the British hops ale style. There is quite a bit of corn-flavored malt in fact. It is lightly sweetened and just 7.5% ABV. It's a pleasant enough sipping ale (and the imaged canister shows use of a brandy sniffer) but not as strong as I would have like. You get modest hops and unfortunately some very curious metallic notes I found very offensive. It was dated 12/09 so I must assume the bottle is not past it - and a pale Belgian may not do so well with age as the darker, carmamel feasts will. It is was more show than go. The long I sipped, the more prominent hops became in the finish but overall one is confused by this product. Just for the record, the firm of St. Bernardus is also from Watou, Belgium. I think it is best very cold but even brought down in degrees, I found it severely wanting.

Van Steenberge Oude Zuipers Belgian Tripel Ale
RATING: 4.0
Ertvelde, Belgium
This dark golden ale comes in corked, 750ml bottles with the name Papago Brewing Co. as well as the Van Steenberge brewery name. ABV is 11.0% and the head ultra-tall, and ultra-foamy. The foam is colored as old ivory. Flavor is light malt at first, biscuity and faintly hoppy notes next coming to the foreground. The ethanol is well-disguised and the longer one sips (and you will compelled to!) the richer and complex the malt becomes. It is just under $12 in Summer 2009. I found it fine very cold but warming it bit it ceased to impress as much - and frankly any beer needs to sit and stand firm when served with a sumptuous meal. Oude Zuipers is surprisingly clear and free of yeast particles and this begins my problem with it. I loved their Piraat product but here is something less impressive and far from memorable.

Van Steenberge Piraat Ale
RATING: 5.0
Ertvelde, Belgium
This corked champion comes with the painted on "Absolutely one of the top five beers of the world", quoting the likely style-biased Guide to Belgian Beers. Their website claims a survey of "American beer connoisseurs" give it 98 out of 100 points - "no other beer scores better". It is "Triple by Strength" yet mid-golden in color, never dark. It is also "IPA by nature and history". What the &%@*!? Studying their website, they broadly intrepret the IPA style as anything made rich and strong, surviving sea voyages and out-at-sea drinking over the months. Forget that liberty with IPA history and enjoy it for what it really is: a strong, spiced, durable double-fermented ale that would last 2 years on board most ships but has nothing close to the hops slap, dryness, and medicinal approach of an authentic IPA. That which strengthens the "body and moral of pirates and other seafarers" is not exactly the market for the British IPA of old where it was sipped by fancy ex-pat aristocrats who's only sword and pair of pistols were for wall decoration. And they wore more likely to wear golden lace than consume it. They also claim the Vikings c. 800 AD took strong beers with them for nutrition and health. Maybe, likely, who knows. But as they stray from the pirate thing with all this IPA and Viking talk, the historical/marketing message becomes less convincing and muddled like a dark stout.

The colorful painted label will last forever but is more like a good high school artist's production than a work of art for any museum. The 10.5% ABV (website says 9%) is more my idea of a truly cultured presentation! This stuff has more lace than all the Victoria Secret factories laid end to end and more head than...[your joke here]. It is lightly cloudly with a small amount of sediment. The flavor jolts one as highly pleasant and surprising all at once with notes of Belgian white ale alcohol, peppermint, and Santa's finest candy sugar. Fruit and spice made it the finest possible concept of a liquid fruit cake. Wowee cubed. Malts come to the back notes and final finish, ending more drier than I expected from the initial sweet thump. It's sinfully rich, a Johnny Depp sort of likeable renegade, traditional but over the top to be sure. It's somehow in control and regular but wild and fun like a new ZR-1 Corvette to try out in Wyoming in the middle of the night during the Police's Ball. There is a curious savage civility here and so the Piraat name is quite a fine choice. It is a beer of much charm, designed for sipping, and turning on anyone young and naive to really fine brewstock. It's a dessert choice above almost anything else and easily on par with the finest oak-aged products for a cold night. One cannot say a bad thing except $11 a bottle which in today's economy is a bit much for some folks. 

Victory Whirlwind Witbier
RATING: 3.5
Downington, PA
Color is hazy gold, carbonation like Niagara Falls in reverse, and therefore the head sustained and constantly refreshed. The aroma says Belgium as does the more generous-than-normal spice for this style. The cap is a keep with a big Red "V". Mister Whirlwind nthe label is a wispy-white-haired dude spinning around like something from the new frosty Dairy Queen menu. Unfortunately I can't read the tiny yellow letters on the bright blue background and I suspect I'm not alone there. Attention Brewmasters: don't write and printer cute, fun, informative pieces that no one even sober with 20/20 vision can read! I'd kill for a real Belgian drinkers opinion on this Penn's Woods copy of their sacred style. I'd suspect they'd agree with the overspicing remarks and seemingly weak ABV value. There's surely a market for readily accessible "spice beer" (as in various Christmas/Holiday treats offered over the years) but I will not be part of praising this single, easily-achieved dimension. 

Westvleteren Blond
RATING: 5.0
Westvleteren, Belgium
One of the top rated Belgian blondes on the planet, this stuff packs just 5.8% of the good stuff. It is made in small batches in the trappist style and can be very hard to find.

Weyerbacher Blanche
RATING: 4.5
Easton, Pennsylvania
The brewers developed this fine product after a trip to Belgium in 2000. It pours cloudy gold, head near white, short but lasting. They use light spicing with coriander and died Curacao orange peels. It's just 4.6% unlike their thermonuclear Merry Monks label reviewed below. This offering is straightforward, non-laborious, needing no brandy glass or mouth swirls to scan it, but not compromised to a low level. You've got a well-made, low ethanol, lightly spicy golden ale that is best served very cold for a very hot day - the Belgian sort of summer cooler, almost as good as German wheat with citrus already in it. A hundred American brewers try this approach towards finding a lightly spiced, crisp, Euro-chic, picnic beer. Most of them do not succeed as well as this Blanche. In reality, it's more of a "honey, I finished cleaning out the garage [at least the central left side]"...so I'm going have three or ten refreshing beers in preparation for thinking about preparing for the pre-game show four hours from now.

It tried this again in spring 2010 and found it still a 4.5 and frankly the lack the ethanol might as well be a larger deduction down to 4.0. Do we say that the new, sleek, red Kia GT5 is just like a Porsche but with skinny tires and a third of the horsepower? High performing, high-scoring beers must have ABV in the range of the original style and not a fraction of their horsepower and ability. You lose something in the conversion. It is not just about shape and flavor and ambiance. There is no replacement for ethanol. For fun I added three splashes of seven-times distilled Vodka to the label to see if things might be righted. Very soon I was thinking Orval, Duvel, Robert Duval, Oral Roberts with a 60 ft. Jesus, something unthinkable from Trappist monks, being trapped in a gold wire cage,  farmhouse ale in a hayloft with golden bubbly and spicy farmer's daughter named Cori Ander, corks a poppin', numbness in general, then nothing at all.

Weyerbacher Merry Monks Belgian Style Golden Ale
RATING: 5.0
Easton, Pennsylvania
Except for the possibility of unabandoned indulgence in this fine product, I'll not ask why the monks are merry or something roughly synonymous with that word. Cloudy gold it is and the yeast swirls in the bottle like wood, chicken parts, and tractors during a Fujita Class 5 Tornado in Kansas. The head is big and ascends as quickly as anything with a Belgian town name on the bottle. Flavor is very pleasant, great cold and very drinkable at room temp we found out. This highbred copy of the real thing does not carry those import and weak dollar disadvantages and it has deep, dramatic appeal that I would not have expected. Three bottles were tried at various temps to be sure I was not missing something. All three moved and inspired. Spicing is traditional, mid-high potency and yet respectibly wise; not that fake Double Mint Gum blast some cheap microbrews give us. Spice was best (restrained) when icy and yeast when warmer so aim for some balance if you want a perfectionist's take. ABV is 9.3% and a deficiency there would have scored them much lower here. It's the Lexus of Golden Belgian Ales and most of you guys will know that that means.

Weyerbacher Zotten Belgian-style Pale Ale
RATING: 3.5
Easton, Pennsylvania
First of all this is not approaching their Merry Monks firepower with 9.3% and while bottle-conditioned this offering is 6%. "Zotten" is Belgian/Flemish for "fool" and while a 9.3% will get any of us fools-in-waiting there quicker than a 6%, let's judge this rich golden-amber ale on it's own merit - or not. The head lasts long, decent depth, and ivory-ice overall. The nose is Belgian wit all the way and absolutely not an APA (American Pale Ale) hoppy pull. The first sip goes all over the map with one nice malt note, much discordance and lack of harmony. Sips two and three show more regularity, much more hops than in the nose and yet malts exploding all around in the background. Being a devoted inter-style beer blending, I do know what a Belgian wit splashed with a classic American Pale Ale tastes like. Some of those combinations are rather yummy and have gone down in my journals in the "do again" or "refine a bit more" category.

Zotten, if not a deliberate blend, is crafted respectably by any method of technology to bridge a malty Belgian ale with some careful, professional hopping - something they do very well in other labels.  By any means or methodology this is a hybrid and one I find alluring but not quite on point. Blends whether they be physical or in recipe or by some curious combination of the two must in the final analysis work and flow and glow with a high degree of agreement. We do not require ONE theme but they'd better not have twelve fighting each other with no logical order. Any chef or cook or brewer can throw 10 yummy flavors at the palette but only a master will give them integrated flow, something of a linear flow that makes sense from first to last. It's a form of "flavor choreography" but perhaps more like programming a fireworks show as some things need to explode before others and others only give background in pale tones and others wait for their own moment after another had lit up the world and gone black. Here's a mellow Belgian gold base, lightly influence by spice, the malt foundation moderately impressive and very evident, and the augmented and auxillary hops integrated well in some sips and at other times awkwardly dancing into the scene. I like this hybrid idea but here is a nice example of something clear and smooth at times while other sips are disintegrated and asymmetrically clumsy. While never offensive there is lack of grace which must be improved upon by altering either their process or their recipe. They are close to a refined hybrid but bumbling a bit. It's a green, semi-rough blend but with quality ingredients. Given the talent of this firm they will surely get there and educate and thrill us once again.


ALE - CREAM

What is a cream ale really? Many Americans have had Genny Cream Ale and know it when they taste it or wake up the next morning with...300 lb. creamy and foaming Jenny. The Genesee Brewing Company at creamale.com says most of us experienced the style when dad left the fridge in the garage unguarded. Cool and maybe true. Their brewmaster Clarence Geminn said in 1960 "I think we have a winner here" and it was born. (Many Brewing History experts claim a similar ale hybrid style dates to ther late 1800's). Sadly though in 1964 they marketed it as "The Male Ale" and marketed to the newly established Playboy set - and by the way your female sig-other may ask about why you have a website ending in "male.com" on your web history. "Is there something you need to tell me Harold?" see said with fear in her eyes. Women being women, she will of course Google the "crea" part of creamale.com and assume your have a thing for Italian men. Just be ready with it's "CREAM ALE DOT COM you dumb ass (or) sweety" and have a pillow and blanket ready in the garage if you use the first version. In 1974 the short, "stubby" bottle was introduced and 1.4 million barrels were sold in one year. If the whole Playboy connection wasn't enough, a competitor started a rumor c. 1980 that the Moonies cult owned the brand and was using the money to do evil things we suppose. In 1988 the Genny Cream won the Silver Medal at the Great American Beer Festival. Whoa Nellie! Second in a style you created and master? Yes. The Gold in 1988 went to Little Kings. But in 2002 Genny took the Gold. In recent years, the GABF awards get complicated because Lone Star and Red Dog have won lately, suggesting the category might be expanded somewhat. In 2005 TAPS Cream Ale from California won. Milwaukee's Best has won medals and I can tell the cream style of a Genny from this 7-11 staple any day of the night unless I've had 12 or more or either. Even the great Anchor Steam Beer is said to share many things in common with the true cream ale and may be a close cousin in fact.

Most Brew Taxonomists will tell you that the style is based on that hideous thing known as American Light Lager but perhaps finished with a lager yeast or mixed with lager. In other words, cheap corn and rice are used to make it light and reaching a "price point competitive" (read: cheap). The amount of hops varies a bit. Other experts are more kind and say a German Kölsch style in lower strength is close. They are certainly light gold, smooth, and very creamy at times. The truth is perhaps more on the order that it's an ale at the start (weak hops and malt) but undergoes cold-conditioning or lagering to smooth it out, sometimes including the use of lager yeast in final steps. The adjunct corn and rice are important too. I personally think that malt too is used to "cream up" the flavor as opposed to "spicing it up" with hops. Carbon dioxide also smooths it around the old tastebuds. Rob Haiber in All About Beer wrote that indeed the true cream ale is an ale hybrid. It has ale yeast, not as much ingredients as most ales, and a lagering to make it very easy on everyone. Beer genius Michael Jackson describes the cream ale style as "may actually have been blended with a lager", otherwise a "very pale (usually golden), mild, light bodied ale". Most cream ales from the cheap to the microbrewed tend to need a very chilly temp when serving.

Frederick Hempen Gold    u    rac    5.0    999    BEST CREAM ALE 1998    Frederick MD    This cream ale is brewed using hemp seeds. They say they're pleased to provide    yet another practical use for hemp and here it serves to give flavor. Their    Hempen Ale was so rich it might be hard to separate hops from hemp - something    we've not been called on to do since college. In this more mild, creamy form    we think we have more appreciation for what the seeds actually give in the    way of flavoring. It is certainly the best cream ale you'll ever try even if    the hemp does not excite you. It is very delicious and most of us found it    to be a 'super unique' on our life beer lists. That is, a brew so distinct    you can recognize it anywhere anytime and would grab it without a second    thought. It is first rate without doubt. Besides it might shock the in laws.

Genesee Cream Ale    u    rac    3.0    127        Rochester NY    This Update New York favorite is made in Rochester NY and many yankees have    missed it upon moving South or West. While only about $4.00 per six pack of    bottles the taste is distinctive and unmistakable. The green foil label is    glowing. While superior to other bargains in bottles it has new competition.    For a smoother creamy taste we now prefer Little Kings which is worth the    extra dollar or so. We have recently found it in Southeastern markets.   
           
Liebotschaner Cream Ale    u    rac    4.0    782        Wilkes-Barre PA    This 1994-95 Gold Medal winner at the Great American Beer Festival is from Lion    Brewery. They also make the Cape Cod Old Smuggler's Ale in case you found    the name curiously familiar. The color is pale yellow with a short-lived    tiny head. Carbonation is moderately full. As ales go this is a sweet and    lightly fruity; scarcely full enough to please but just right if ice cold for    a summer scorcher. It is miles ahead of Genny Cream Ale and so different from    Little Kings they can't really be compared. Many reviewers felt the $7.49 tab    was rather (or VERY) steep for such a thin creation. A dose or two more of    that wonderfully tempting ale fruitiness would make it one very nice beer. As    for now it suggests why it won a narrow category; we still expect better.

Lagunitas Sirius High Gravity Cream Ale
RATING: 4.5
Petaluma, California
This 40.8 IBU "Special Release" ale is different from everything else in this section. It's 7% ABV for one, its' very thick and syrupy for another. For yet another, it tastes spicy and rich like a golden Belgian ale. It pours bright golden-amber, a righteous fine glow in fact, topped with a large cream, lasting head. Nose is very much of spice, hops or maybe something more. First nip is malty with hops coming on quickly to balance, thick mouthfeel, creamy only in the sense of being a thick as a creamy hops milkshake; should something that wondrous exist anywhere. The sweet, resinous hops are very nice but it's nothing like a Genny Cream Ale of my youth - and that would be 32 years old if mom and dad are reading this. It's overall a bit like a hybrid of American Pale Ale x Belgian Golden at this point, though taken back a notch in the strength department. On the Belgian front, I would not discount the chance some real citrus was used here.

Now that American brewers know and accept that Belgians "spice", I suspect many of the microbrewers are taking new licence with spices of all exotic kinds and types yet to be determined and cleverly not accounced. Cloves, coriander, citrus peels, and nutmeg are old choices. Ginger, peppers, "pumpkin spice", and vanilla have all worked well to date, of late, with one or two noted misses. Can a good anise ale or cinnamon lager be far off? I can almost see the Ben Dover Anise Ale coming from a No-Cal microbrewery available with extra long necks and a large, tightly bound cork to pop. Then there will be the Cine-Bun Lager offered at the Sundance Film Festival, so exclusive only 22 hand-signed bottles were made, then ramped up to 10,000 cases in time for Tribeca.

Maybe Sirius here is just a Cream Pale Ale if such a thing exists - but it probably should. Very oddly it's neither featured or described on their website as of today's review date. I am confused by the naming as much as I rather loved it. Perhaps they meant "smooth pale ale", ie. Cream Pale Ale. I suspect they wanted to make a creamy ale with actual flavor though any connection to cream soda, real or imagined by Genny drinkers, is absent. It stands out in this lot of similarly named ales as much as a Porsche Carrera GT stands out from a 1986 Ford Escort GT. At some levels, named don't mean too much...

Little Kings Cream Ale    u    rac    4.5    190    BEST CREAM ALE 1994    Cincinnati OH    Schoenling Brewing of Cincinnati has won 3 gold medals at the Great    American Beer Festival. And it shows. This creamy brew is highly    palatable and is a pale mellow drink that lacks the compromises of lights.    At about $1 per 24oz. tall can a six pack worth (72 oz.) comes to a    very reasonable $3.00-3.50. This product is never bitter and at times    we find the aftertaste semi-sweet. It is distinct enough to earn 5 bottles.               
Magnotta True North Cream Ale        rac                                                       

Riverside Raincross Cream Ale    u    rac    3.5    807        Riverside CA    Described as a 'good British sipping ale...dry...satisfying' we found this    $7-8 microbrew to be a poor value. Little Kings at much lower price was more    satisfying in this class despite the 1995 World Championship award. Color is    dark yellow with a long-enduring head of near white. Flavor at first palate    is semi-sweet, lightly fruited, and faintly hopped. Second palate and finish are    more dry, cream-flavored, and slightly bitter; not always a smooth 'good' bitter    for some reviewers. Dry and easy to stip it is. Satisfying was a big negatory.    Given the diversity of golden microbrew ales, creamy or not, at this price    we cannot possibly recommend it. High approvals did arrive for the label art.    But any beer lover can safely save her money for another Riverside brew.

Rogue's Honey Cream Ale
RATING: 5.0
Newport, Oregon
This 'great ale of distinction' is colored pale amber with a deep lasting creamy head of long duration. The head is ALL it has in common with Little Kings and Genny cream ales! It is immediately recognized as a well-hopped amber ale but is crisp enough to be a refreshing summer cooler. The key phrase is 'honey touched' not honey-drenched - it finishes rather dry and crisp. Reviewers noted "it is more like a HOPPY CREAM ALE...perhaps like a SEMI-LIGHT PALE ALE...absolutely perfect on a hot day" and "much better than the homely mild maid on the label would suggest". Our favorite comment from the Brewbase gang: "not overly hopped up on hops...just right for me". Pretty in presentation with a glowing light amber color and a head that lasts all morning - if you can resist it that long.

ALE - GOLDEN

A classic Golden Ale aka Blonde Ale is one far less malty (or at least lower in the strong malts) than an amber or brown ale and much less hop-driven than a Pale Ale or India Pale Ale. They are more apt to include crystal and pale malts than caramel, highly roasted, and chocolate ones. The color is light yellow to rich gold, bordering on amber in some incarnations. When gold they are often "crisp" and "refreshing", easy on subtle foods and ideal for hot weather. Lower carbonation is common. The Blonde Ale name is often favored in the US for the opportunity to put a sexy, light-aired lady on the logo or label.

Some Mild Bitter Ales are rather golden in color and easily confused with most of this style. Typically, they are more about nippy hops, especially in the finish, and have very little malt in the mid to late notes. A classic gold is more about subtle malts and fruit or yeast flavors and can be much sweeter than any bitter-type ale. Honey is a common additive to golden ales and the whole Honey Golden Ale sub-style is more popular than it should be in my opinion.

Sadly, some microbreweries (and not just the lower price point type) make their golden ale an opportunity to cut down all the big ingredients to virtually nothing at all; in fact making an insipid, weak-as-water Light Pils using ale techniques. They might add sweetness and a bit of citrus flavor to make up for the lack of everything good. Blonde should never mean shallow and easy.

Some of them are actually lagered and emulate the German Kolsch style of Golden Lager, being something of an Ale-Lager hybrid. The best golden ales have subtle but quality malts at their backbone and lots of fruity ale yeast flavors in the foreground. Some are sweet and others are more hoppy and dry in the finish. They are made with barley and thus not usually overlapping with the equally golden Wheat Ale style. Semi-wheat Golden Ales do occur as do others with alternative grains.

The classic Strong Golden Ale has 6-8% ABV or even more and in the widely copied Belgian Wit style is often herb-spiced (other than by hops), bottle-conditioned, and full of yeast residue for complex flavors.

This review section excludes the Belgian golds or wits as well as wheats.

Ballast Point Yellowtail Pale Ale
RATING: 3.5
San Diego, California
I'm not sure what all the colorful fish stuff on beer labels of late is all about. Maybe the crazy canines, pissing young boys, hookers, pirates, mythological beasts, local fauna, prett Mayan chicks, and goofy white guys have become dull. After it all, I think I supposed to consume 18 of their best and go hump something wild and legal from my species. This label is made in the golden, German Kolsch style with malt and hops from that land. Color is mid gold, head slight but lasting, and for most Americans this will feel like a Golden Ale-Pils hybrid. The tale and brew are yellow and hops do not qualify it as a true Pale Ale in the usual sense. It is refreshing very chilled but not a perfect example of the Kolsch style nor something I will try again.

Blue Moon Honey Blonde
RATING: 4.0
Denver, Colorado/Utica, New York
This beer is made 'once in a blue moon' in either Denver or Utica NY. They use 'deep golden' honey and Perle hops for a 'soft bite'. Color is pale amber and the head is quite substantial and lasting. Carbonation is obvious and steady. We've been rather hard on the new crop (or perhaps swarm) of honey beers. This one seems different. One panelist said 'there are true and substantial flavor elements under the sweet honey addition that earn attention...this would be a good beer without honey.' Another said 'it held momentary interest with the even malt-hops balance...failed to deliver a complete experience.'. At $6.99 most of us recommend a try. One final opinion from our gang: "you won't have a blue honey moon with this blonde".

Bison Farmhouse Organic Saison-style Ale (2007 Brewer's Reserve)
RATING: 4.5
Berkeley, California
You'd expect something from Berkeley to be smart and accomplished, even if a little radical. It could be a bit numb one or two days a week. First of all, the scripted word Farmhouse on the label is very hard to read and that's something enough to get your graphic designer terminated. It's certified organic by the California Crop Improvement Association - and probably by Fidel Castro and Kim Jong Il too. It an old Saison style and also won a Gold Medal in the 2006 Great American Beer Festival - those suggest a traditional and mainstream approach. Did they span the two divids? Yes to be sure. Color is so bright a gold it's almost like a California sun in July. Lace is decent and as long as a Joan Baez tune. The head's ivory and moderate...um...I mean wildly liberal unless you're from Maine by which I mean "progressive"...or if you're from Florida I mean "we need change, any kind of change, even if status quo-like change". Sermon done. Flavor is complex, overall a citrus-hops ale, fruity but not too tart, spicy enough. very drinkable from those seven dollar (July 2008) tall bottles. They used Belgian yeasts and sour mash, leaving just the right amount of "acidity to liven the palate". There's a bit of haze from bottle sediment as it's conditioned in the glass. Their malt is organic but apparently not the hops? Do Bison roam the quads of Berkeley? Well, based on this label they should, even if in the liquid version.

Boddington's Pub Ale
RATING: 3.5
Manchester
Since 1778 Boddingtons has made great ales. Since ???? Labatts has imported it in 'Draughtflow System' (tm) cans and they are more widely known for their Guiness presentation. It came to us in four 14.9 oz. cans. It is pastuerized however. The 'Cream of Manchester' head is famous and with these pressurized cans you do have to let it settle - a curious show if you've not seen it before. Color is medium-pale yellow; most unusual for a Brit ale. That head has a Cappoccino-like appeal. The flavor is unfortunately a tad thin and it could pass for a better Aussie golden lager in fact. It is somewhat like a very good American cream ale (way above a Genny though), endlessly civilized, impossible to offend, agreeable, and consumable in mass quantities. It is very polite and gracious in the mannerly British way - quite opposite the upfront, potent approach of a Scottish Ale or IPA. First taste is more full than the finish which really ruins the experience. Most reviewers I used were not impressed except for the 'settling head' performance and the beauty of a correctly poured glass. Unless you thrive on British-priced lagers with a gimick in the can, the value is so so. Turn it up one notch or two and the price will be worth it and I'd drink it very regularly. The makings are surely there.

Broughton Merlin's Ale
RATING 3.0
Broughton, Peeblesshire
This dark golden ale has a dense, persistant near white head and modest aroma. The legendary Merlin is thought to have roamed near those Scottish hills near Broghton Scotland. Sadly there is little magic here and the brew is barely moderate in hops and malt intensity. With so many superb Scottish ales (Cale- donian Golden Pale Ale comes to mind) from medium to rich style, we found this one impossible to recommend. Reviewers noted 'nice sweetish, hops start but it quickly trails off into a weak finish no brewer could be proud of' and 'very drinkable as they say but we have Miller here if one would ever want that sort of thin stuff!'. Pretty artistic label suitable collecting. The contents are not so memorable.

Casta Golden Ale
RATING: 3.5
Monterrey, Mexico
This a real fraud in the 4-pack, pricey for. Their Wheat Ale was okay in 4's but this is a downright rip-off in the reduced quantity. It's oddly Pilsoid in flavor, perhaps a weak fruity version of a Pils Ale. It's a faux premium and I don't mind calling out marketing gambits when they are so blatant and rude. $8.00 for four weak, lamentable ales? I think not. 

Castelain Ch'ti Blond Biere
RATING: 5.0
France
Like Trois Monts and Jenlain this comes in 750ml corked bottles for app. $5. It it indeed 'Blond' in dark golden color bordering on very pale amber. The carbonation and head are much superior to all Jenlain bottles we have tried. It is fruity at mid-palate but finishes fairly thin and sweet. It is not a thing like American fruity ales - as California's Red Seal Ale. We felt it was better than Trois Monts and Jenlain if one wants a corked French beer. 

Coniston Bluebird Bitter
RATING: 3.0
Coniston, Cumbria, England
This fine bottle-conditioned ale is only 4.2% ABV. After you remove the blue chromed cap and pour the "light golden" liquid (which to me is more medium golden), the lace rises long and slow to form a near white head of irregular geography. The first pour has a very fine-bubbled head of better quality. They proclaim the value of a strong "resinous and spicy" hop but I found it surprisingly thin for something using English Challenger hops. Maris Otter malt is used and evident more in the finish. I found the whole label thing false and curious both until I read they welcome it serves at 58 degrees F. ! Holy mother of warm ales! "Soft fruitiness" and "a faint hint of scented geranium" is said to come out then. I've written articles and grown over 43 kinds of scented geraniums and I'm not sure I smelled one fit for any of my ales - or I'd have done it years ago. Not only did I let it sit but I bought a bottle from a long-warm shelf to give them another go. Never found a geranium note anywhere and as trained plant taxonomist I pretty much know all the chemicals that make Pelargoniums smell delightfully as they do.

At the high temps complexity improves a bit but this stuff remains ingredient-deficient and something of a weak scam. My 3.0 rating is generous and overall I think the bluebird has dumped on us, overcharged, and gone away with song to his bank. I like it slightly better cold and allowed to warm for some other notes to appear. Long, slow sipping ales have merit as they change from one thing to another. Still this does not change enough to impress. There's a difference between subtly with not enough yet still quality ingredients and subtly with real, spot-on moderation. This is just plain short in so many ways. I know half a dozen weekend microbrewers who can do very much better. I'm conditoned to their kinds of bottles and not import hype and the cult of pseudo-English ale mysticism.

Cooper's Black Crow
RATING: 3.0
Leabrook, South Australia
Leabrook Cooper's of Leabrook, South Australia produce this darkish golden 'ale' that for all the world is much like the better Australian pilsoid lagers. Let's get the pun out of the way. It is 'nothing to crow about'. It still can kick Foster's tail in the old head-to-head dual. Yet we expected so much more after first trying their magnificant Best Extra Stout. In it's favor is a nice aromatic first presentation and a big head. Carbonation and finish are too weak for us. Compared to any good UK or US ale this 'filtered ale' lacks true character. Judged as a golden lager-ale hybrid it tastes better if one does not consider the $8.50 price tag. We simply cannot recommend it under any circumstances unless you must try EVERYTHING to sleep at night.

Cooper's Sparkling Ale
RATING: 4.0
Leabrook, South Australia
The name SPARKLING ALE brings to mind the image of a super-carbonated bottle fermented beer in the German Weizenbier or French Brown Ale styles. This is neither. It is bottle fermented and top-fermenting but the lace is actually slow and sparse. The head is lasting. Cloudy yeast flavor combines with a nice non-bitter mild ale flavor for what is best described as a HEFE-ALE. It is not so rich as most HEFE-WEIZEN (wheat) beers from Europe but has the enchanting flavor that only yeast provides. The label says 'enhanced flavour'. This South Australian ale is a winner in the same way Cooper's Black Crow is such a shocking failure. $8.50 a six is well spent this time. It should be served very cold unlike yeasty wheats which often do well at 45-50 deg. F.

Cotleigh Golden Seahawk Premium Beer
RATING: 4.5
Wiveliscombe, Someret, England
The 500ml brews are part of the Birds of Prey series with lovely ornithological artwork. The Golden Seahawk is probably better known as the Osprey in much of the US. Pale and crystal malts are supportive here in this bright golden pour, the hops coming from the Challenger, Goldings, and Styrian types. Honey and citrus are toughted on the label and yet these require imagination and longish-sessioning. The head is Temperpedic smooth, finely textured, a very good presentation in all our glasses. Nose is light fruit of the ale type, tempting but not strong. First sip has citrus, yeasty fruit notes quickly dropping into malt later notes, surprising malty for the hue. So many ales fail and fail badly, soaring off the cliff into a finish so weak and watery I cannot help them a light ale! This one I am glad to say remains robust enough - make them semi-robust enough - to keep your attention and respect. The quality of this ale is remarkable though at one time it really wows - but very few golden ales will be attention-grabbing as might a complex porter, loaded barleywine, or layered Belgian wit. It's good competant ale, well made from first note to last, and far above most golden ales from this side of the pond.

Dergy's Golden Ale
RATING: 4.0
Wilmington, North Carolina
The Wilmington Brewing Company of North Carolina has released both Golden and Amber ales from their microbrewery. This Golden is actually more of a golden- amber or light amber with a nice head of fine texture. The lace is impressive. So much weak golden water is sold under the name Golden Ale these days that it is refreshing to find a Golden Ale with some flavor. Hops and malt are evident but it is surprisingly malty for a Golden anything kind of beer. Even with our understanding that Golden Ales are rarely rich or fruity we still think the $7.99 price tag demands a retuning to make it truly stand out. It is pleasant but once again (like their Amber) the finish trails off into an undefined and shallow place that even a dry beer needs to avoid. Do try it.

Devil Mountain Railroad Gold Ale
RATING: 4.0
Cinti, Ohio
This GOLDEN ALE is deep golden with perhaps a touch of amber. The head is near white and long-lasting. It is semi-sweet with a nice balance of rather moderate hops and malt. The 'hearty' nature described on the label decides not to appear. Like so many golden ales it has a few 'off places'; notes of weakness and indecision and curious bitterness. Consuming a few in a row gives it a better light: carryover of hop strength on the tongue which becomes pleasant. Your first (and should it be only) bottle will seem somewhat less blessed in the noble vine fruit. Rogue Golden Ale and several other microbrews will run circles around this at any taste test. Some of us gave it a near perfect 4.5 so your own opinion should lead you. It is surely worth a taste trial.

Eumundi Laguna Bay Pale Ale
RATING: 2.5
Indooroopilly, Queensland
Billed as Australian microbrew and winner of the 1994 'Best Australian Microbrew' at the Australian Beer Festival, this brew is dark golden with a shallow short-lived head. As Pale Ales go it follows neither the UK nor the US model and is quite frankly hard to distinguish from a sweetish golden Aussie lager. There is no hops or ale yeast flavor we can note to let one know it is indeed an ale, pale or otherwise. While it is smooth and not awful it neither interesting or memorable. The $4.39 price for 1 pint 9.4 ounces is shockingly a ripoff unless one collects lovely labels - toothy shark hovering above a palmed beach. There is no merit to this even if rated against weak lagers. Even the biggest of American breweries made a line or two more tasty at 1/2-1/3 the price.

Fager's Island Blue Dog Ale
RATING: 4.0
Cambridge, Maryland
If the paw prints on the package don't attract you the artful label deliberately printed upside down will catch your eye. With careful reading you dis- cover that this 'house beer' is made by the skilled Wild Goose Brewery of Cambridge Maryland for Fager's Restaurant in Ocean City. The color is very dark golden with strong carbonation and a head of large bubbles. The flavor is fairly moderate with a nice balance of sweetness and hops. It is quite palatable in some quantity (ideal for a house beer) and with the sweetness is tolerable at close to room temp (important for long casual meals). We are sure it preforms that function well but for $8.00 it is not really worth distributing. Drop it $6.00 and add more hops and it could be a favorite.

Flying Dog Days Golden Ale
RATING: 4.5
Denver and Aspen, Colorado
I guess technically the name is Flying Dog Dog Dales Ale but it looks silly. Made by Broadway Brewing of Denver for Flying Dog of Aspen we have some more nasty mutt graphics like their other products. You are admonished to 'kick up your paws' and 'mark your territory' with this Kolsch-style brew. They confess it has 'light body' but it is far better than we expected. Color is extremely pale yellow but the near white head is large. The flavor is hopped enough for most of us hop-loving snobs and it finishes semi-sweet. It has that refreshing summer beer quality so may attempt (and advertise) but so few achieve. It is light enough to gulp by the gallon but flavorful enough to impress. A nice nip in the hops is a fine touch though it could annoy your Bud Lite pals.

Fort Collins Summer Fling Ale
RATING: 4.0
Fort Collins, Colorado
This brightly labeled seasonal is available west to east in large bottles. Okay. Let's get this out of the way. I bought it the first time because of the gal in the bikini on the bottle and the fact my beer review budget only had another six bucks to go. Miracle of miracles, their website hype is mostly true! "A subtle sweet aroma preludes medium-light biscuity malt prescence, discrete bitterness and a hint of warmth make this the perfect summer evening treat". Spot on, lads. The "big, bold, and refreshing" is only correct in the last word. It is not big nor bold. It seems to be an enigma for it's labeled an ale, colors up as amber-golden (almost too dark or light for either classification if based on intensity alone), and yet the Beer Advocate calls it a Weizenbock!

Anyhow, the head is taller than Paul Bunyon and lace longer than expected. One gets a bit juice, grapefruit perhaps and certainly some pear and apple. Very faint mint and pepper come out but the fruity biscuit theme endures the most. There's a bit of spice anyone, nothing rich. I'd prefer the sweetness down a notch. Roasted malts and some wheat come out but it is no wheat beer in my opinion. I will never judge clear wheat blends ales in the Weizenbock group and neither should you. It could be tuned many ways and as for the gal on the bottle...what was I thinking? The next morning her face looked rather odd and only beer-goggle pretty; good curves and like this brew a rather mixed package neither adorable or ignorable either. (Okay, okay, stop the emails...here's apology #12 for comparing beer to women...we men compare and write from places and spaces we know and love and that will never stop).

Frederic Robinson Premium Ale (Unicorn)
RATING: 4.5
Stockport, Cheshire
Brewed from an all malt grist, this dark golden ale and aroma type hops. It is later dry hopped for additional flavor. They say it is 'minimally processed' prior to bottling to retain quality. If you met with this brew in a blind taste test you'd almost swear it's a full-bodied Pils with maybe a bit of extra hops for flavoring. Hops aroma is pleasant but not overwhelming. This is not your average British ale by any means - the color is the first clue. Reviewers noted 'a rare find...golden hoppy dry ales are not that common' and 'unique and pleasant but not as impressive as the grand label would suggest'. Another wrote 'Wonderfully appealing...nice change of pace...rich hops but not excessively so' See www.beerbritain.com (Boston Beer Brands) for more info.

French Broad Gateway Kolsch
RATING: 4.5
Asheville, North Carolina
The true Kolsch of Cologne Germany is easily mistaken for a Pils in appearance and sometimes the overt skunkiness as found here. It is technically an ale and usually has more fruit notes like an ale. A good fruity Kolsch could make one give up Pilseners forever if that is what one comes to adore. This stuff is refreshing cold but again what Pils and Kolsch isn't?!? For my money this was a moderate-strong Pils but having few other STRONG virtues. It is subtle in the added qualities for me yet it has a quality and aura of being very European in total flavors. Notes of faint citrus, supported hops (lightly presented), Pils  depth, hints of sweetness, some supporting malts of quality style, and wispy Malus carry it on. I can think of few nicer rewards on a steamy hot day after a wide lawn mowed or a honey-do list "lost" in the leaf mulcher than these 22 ouncers. It is clean, crisp, and drinkable in the good uses of those three words - not the Miller, Bud, nor Michelob abuses of those formerly meaningful beer words. (How about a Miller FMBW to restore their brand to formerly wonderful beer traits, earning respect from actual product  instead of millions of purchased hype). I would have given the fruit esters another punch upward, favoring apple and citrus both.

Geary's Summer Ale
RATING: 4.0
Portland, Maine
This entry at 6% ABV is one bold and colorful item with label of contrasting dark red and yellow, showing a lobster of goodly size. Do people from Maine buy anything honoring the State Bird? When it comes to beer I surely won't let beasties, airborn or ocean-roaming or alien or nymphic, influence my buying decisions. There are better choices in the plump, succulent, mouth-watering, legs begging to be buttered category to allure men to your suds. That said, their website says they have a context to design their label from time to time. Not a bad idea. Color is rich gold, only amber under weak tavern illumination, lace slow and steady, head off white and irregular. Aroma suggests sweetness and faint malt. First taste is the same thought the malt gets rich and this label gets no more complex or inspiring than one's early nasal analysis.

How does this label survive and seem to do well? Sweet malt is the soda of the beer world and not a few (million) folks will always want this for hours and days on end. Kolsch is the general style. If ou demand hops to any degrees in your ales, go elsewhere and quick. There's a nice buttery malt aspect and weak fruit. Among the golden, malty, very sweet ales there are few of better quality and in some ways this is the finest of a style not beloved by hop addicts or seriously demented beer lovers in general. I'll enjoy it but not really admire it. It is good for what is, but it could be so much more. It's easy to appreciate as a sweet, summer ale but there 450 choices we'd get more sophisticated, thrilling ale flavor from. Not a few reviewers told us it's an Americanized, less complex version of European legends which at the current time  (7/2008) and exchange rate is not a bad thing - but at other times is unforgiveable to purists. Fun but corners were cut.

Genesee 12 Horse Ale
RATING: 4.0
Rochester, New York
This upstate product is a distinct improvement over the Cream Ale for about $1.00-$1.50 more in bottles. The initial taste and aroma is pungent like a Canadian ale. The major flavor is moderately strong and the finish is fairly smooth. The price and nice gold foil label makes it compete directly with popular Canadians like Molson and Labatts. It is easily their equal but not quite exciting. It is lighter tasting than Miller Genuine Draft. 

George Killian's Irish Honey Lager
RATING: 3.5
Golden, Colorado
While called a lager it may be a renamed Wilde Honey Ale as both proclaim use of honey and clover. Flavor is moderate with sweet notes and what one reviewer 'must be flavor from clover rather than hops'. One actually gets more of a pos- itive opinion of the sweetness than the brewing art. We have paid as low as $4.99 (on special) to re-review this. Under such a good price it certainly could have merit since it would thus compete with vasty inferior beers. But these days many microbrews (plus Saranac, Adams, or Pete's) can be had for as low as $5.99. What disappoints us perhaps is that Coors/Unibev has shown they can do very much better. Another reviewer suggested 'it will not offend but neither will it impress...I'd look to the next cooler for something better...'

George Killian's Wilde Honey Ale
RATING: 3.5
Golden, Colorado
Unibev (aka Coors) of Golden Colorado makes this newest Killian product with an ale base. Honey and clover are brewed with it. It has a lovely golden color (pun fully intended) and the head is larger than many Coors items. Flavor is moderate and not as full as some honey beers like to be. The sweetest is fort- unately restrained for best results. While it is drinkable it is neither memor- able or particularly exciting. At the price you might do better. But like many Coors products it is available late at night in convenience shops when super- ior labels are not - so it could be the best around even if you have to pay $8-9 or some similarly inflated price. One reviewer here noted 'it is a novelty and not a bad one though one finds nothing of true ale flavor holding it up.'

Golden Promise Ale
RATING: 5.0
Edinburgh Scotland
Caledonian Brewing Co. of Edinburgh produces this organic (Soil Association Organic Standard P903) ale. Since 1869 Caledonian has made superb ales of which MacAndrew's Scotish Ale is most famous. This very pale amber ale has a long-sustaining foamy head above rich carbonation. It is clearly aromatic and fills the tongue with a medley of bitter, sweet, herbal, medicinal, hops, and fruit flavors at once. A unique choice for a beer tasting. Truly great.

Harpoon Ale
RATING: 4.0
Boston, Massachussets
Mass. Bay Brewing makes this Ale along with their Alt Ale (skip it) and India Pale Ale (respectable). It colors up deep golden (very pale amber) and as such is the lightest shaded of the three ales. The head is deep, lasting, and off white. Their 'rare and fiesty yeast' is lightly fruity and together with a med- ium hops dose is in fact 'crisp'. There are many stronger GOLDEN ALES and some much more fruitful but this strikes a nice summer if you want a tall cold summer refresher. There is enough flavor to thrill but no so much it drowns out any food in your immediate sight. That kind of balance we always respect. A few thought the finish was thin and uninteresting but most of us felt their judg- ment was near perfect. Whether it's crafted to $8.00 standards was up for debate

Hop Back Summer Lightning Golden Ale
RATING: 4.5
This "summer ale" is pale gold, favoring straw yellow with giant, an almost unmanageable snowy head if shaken around even to the least degree. East Kent Golding hops make an appearance but it's a rather sweet fluid for them to work in. Still it's no mono-dimensional "sweet gold" of formula-run bargain breweries. There are high quality notes throughout, including faint hop bitterness at first, giving more by the finish. There is much honey with your subtle caramel and vanilla and citrus too. Bits of grass and grain are not always pleasant for some reviewers and we found odder notes yet when the temperature was made too warm. Very warm (as room temp) it's much more crude and unappealing. Some even thought it had Pilsener notes and when thinking about that, you do find them. Summer ales by definition need to take lower temps well since they're bound to be out in the sun and placed on an outside table for some minutes. ABV is 5% and it's bottle-conditioned too. They proclaim it as a "trendsetter in the brewing industry". It is very drinkable and is this case that is a true compliment. One would not find an American brewery making this, whether gigantic or tiny. Giving the dollar exchange rate  (July 2008) , it's pretty much a "one and done" experience for most of us.

Hook Norton Hooky Bitter
RATING: 4.0
Oxfordshire, England
I always delight in the opportunity to find a new British ale in thick, stodgey bottles with award seals all about the label. So was this $6 experience going perfect until I saw it was just 3.6% ABV. Has the old country gone soft? "Where progress is measured in pints" and more progress was always better, I began to wonder. The ale pours rich golden, some amber tints but only in dark places, the head immense and frothy. This "golden bitter" is modest in flavor, very sufficient I think, rich and malty for it's pale color, and surely nothing any brewer this side-the-pond could or would attempt. "Eminently drinkable" is code language of course for it being a tad less than an top coin ESB. "The classic sesson beer" means you need to take it slow and savor it for you're plum out of 'bob for another! 

I like it for even a British ale thinnish in flavor, crafted well, and low in ABV is better than half the fancy, formulaic trash being peddled in my neighborhood grocery store. For all the flying dogs, grinning cats, bicycle tires, surfboards, lime-drenched crap, brewing is brewing and marketing is something far aside - colorful packaging gets you one buy but the real measure of the liquid hidden inside gets them what they deserve. (Fat monks and gnomes on a bottle are usually good if you can afford them). I would buy this again, knowing it is not a great value but is a good experience all 'round. Speaking of rounds...buy the lads another round, right down to the wall there, including that pretty lass looking our way.

Humes Cavedale Ale
RATING: 4.5
Glen Ellen CA

This one is unique. It is made with organic ingrediants but is bottle conditioned and put in thick, wine-like bottles like a French ale. It is also krausened - a second fermentation stage. The head is tall and everlasting like most bottle-conditioned brews. Color is light yellow and cloudy. It has a rich initial palate with moderate ale fruitiness. The finish has a strong hops bitterness that borders on being very tart; perhaps close to a Berliner Weisse. The sweet-fruity first part and the drier-bitter second are very marked contrasts. To control that balance (favoring the first) it must be served very cold. One reviewer noted 'an organic bottle conditioned ale is a very welcome thing...nice ale complexity but the finish is not so smooth'.

Independence Gold Ale
reviews requested from readership

Jade French Country Ale
RATING: 3.0
France
The Brasseries de Benifontaine has many competitors but none of the others claim 100% organic grains. This Biere de Garde ale is lightly cloudy medium gold with enthuasiastic carbonation. While pleasant it is not particularly flavorful when compared with Castelain and perhaps Trois Monts. Paying what is normally a higher price ($6 per 750ml here) one expects more flavor of the style. Jenlain is darker and richer. This is a 'Biere to Disregarde'.

Marston's Pedigree Bitter Ale
RATING: 3.5
Burton on Trent
Made by Marston, Thompson, and Evershed in the legendary Burton Union way. They still use oak casks. The color is medium yellow with a substantial off white head. Flavor is quite subtle on both the hops, yeast, and malt fronts. In fact a few testers felt is reminded them of a watery American lager before being advised. Others tuned in immediately to the quality of the flavors - a skill we must admit requires both experience and patience. One panelist went so far as to compare to a legendary British car which is more tradition than substance and performance. (Hey, weren't there several of those?). Anyhow the 'Imperial pints' set us back only about $3.00 and for cap collectors that is a superb deal. For actual beer lovers we'd advise a blend with their stouts.

North Coast Centennial (100) Ale
RATING: 5.0
Fort Bragg CA
BREWBASE AWARD: Best American Golden Ale 1996
This amber ale has a moderately enduring head and the immediate overflowing of hops. The hoppy flavor is never fruity as with their Christmas Ale and Scrimshaw Beer. It has a persistant American hops flavor that persists long on the tongue. Comparisions are best made with Sam Adams Boston Ale. If overpowering and unrelenting hops are your thrill (as with us) this ale is a genuine treat. It is one of true hoppy delights in this database. Retried now in 1996 the color is more gold than amber but the hops dose is unrelenting. The head is small but lasting. Reviewers noted 'all hops and little or no malt...I prefer more balance between the two' and 'wonderfully full and charming...nothing to fault here.' Finish has a pleasant bitter nip. Recommended!

North Coast Scrimshaw Beer
RATING: 4.0
Fort Bragg, California
The hazy and amber-gold presentation of this beer immediately suggests it will be flavorful - not another American Weak Pils. While labeled as Pils it is nearly as fruit-filled as North Coast's Christmas Ale 1992. While Pils elements can be detected the abundant fruitiness is stronger at first. It proves to be a PILS-ALE HYBRID to us. Unlike most ales the finish is dryish likes a Pilsner. The compromise is interesting but not quite outstanding.

Obolon Magnat Ale
RATING: 3.5
Kiev, Ukraine
Kiev? This textured, gold-trimmed label has more sophisticated printing than most fat German bottles - unless it was printed by the distributor in Brooklyn? Anyhow, the fluid is what matters. This stuff looks for all the world like a PIlsner lager; and I did rather enjoy their Premium aka Pils offering. This 5.4% is moderately flavored, nebulous at first, nice fruit quality in the finish, that weak and unclassifiable. It has some Pilsoid grain flavors and yet some fruit comes out though very thinnly disguised and short-lived. It is surprisingly malty for the color and there's no hops bittnerness to be found anywhere along the flavor train.

The beer is often called "delicate" and I always want to be careful with "low-moderate" flavored beers to be sure I am not dismissing them quickly without smelling the low-growing, miniature roses that others might miss. There is a quality here that defies an easy dismissal. It needs to be very cold and an earlier version of the product had to be cooled before the word Magnat would show up. I think Coors tried that with blue mountains or something. There may be some confusion as the Magnat name is apparently used for a lager of theirs too though this product has some lager-like qualities; appearance and graininess to name two. A friend of mine says all the "Magnat Ales" are really lagers, the brewery taking some liberty with the ale name here or perhaps actually doing a "Pils Ale". I am also told that one can use ale yeast to make a golden Pils and people sometimes do in the homebrew world. In any cases, it's decent, pleasant very cold, not exciting.

Old North State Plott Hound Muzzled
RATING: 4.0
Youngsville, North Carolina
Marketed as having 'all the bark without all the bite' this golden ale is indeed lightly hopped. Yet a very refined European-style malt flavor is richly enfused to give one something to savor with delight. For an American microbrew is a rather unusual product and we'd consider it a 'must try' for those wanting to sample diversity. The sweetness is well tuned. It is named for the state dog of North Carolina.

Otter Creek Solstice Session Ale
RATING: 4.0
MIddlebury, Vermont
When it comes to a "session" anything I do not think of 4% ABV as the usual starting point for a description - certainly not a promising one. Still, microbreweries today need to maximize their nationwide exposure and that means making lower ABV products for those states with a fear of something one-fifth the potency of a bottle of Scope® mouthwash! This bravely named ale pour rich gold with some amber tints, the head ivory and small but enduring. The nose of tantilizingly with good ingredients and sweetness I think. First note is thin so but with that "session tag" you expect to have to scout for subtle but worthy flavor notes and acquire them them over time pleasure your buds. There are good quality, remote malt notes here and those I liked but only available to me as the glass warmed a bit. It is not very sweet for all the sticky mouthfeel and hops do not present themselves until the very late finish and then only with many, many sips under the belt. One can linger and explore this brew over time and at the various temps that the session will provide and come away a bit underwhelmed in the preliminary analysis. It is a bit like going through my aunt's closet and she offering me some things that might be neat and others so not much and others I politely accept "as is" but will be honest about later should they come to any use. The final tally of the gift value here and in that closet is not immediately clear and one is apt at different times to be severe and at others more kind. Should a "session ale" require much thought, kindness, and deferred judgement to grade it? Probably not but possible so in a fairer world where everything now is Imperial and so accessible it clubs you just in the sniff. This is tribute to decent but very illusive beer flavors. Generally, I like their approach here and the name warns you that the first 10 sips will likely be inadequate and misleading. By 20 sips, I am curious but not so much impessed. By 30 nips I think they still need to deepen the layering and diversity of malts to make it accessible quicker and more solid over the variety of temperatures that it must handle. There is a place for anti-Imperial labels in the beer world but I am sure this one needs a tune up or two.

Red Mountain Golden Ale
RATING: 3.0
Birmingham, Alabama
289 Birmingham Brewing Co. of the AL town proudly proclaims 'Since 1992'. The label describes this medium golden ale as 'lightly hopped' and 'full bodied'. Carbonation is moderate but the head fades fast. It is steam-brewed and has aromatic flavors not found in American golden lagers. While it has some elements of a bitter ale, their 'deep respect for British brewing traditions' might need some tuning. It has real potential but needs more complex flavor.

Red Pig Ale
RATING: 4.5
Chicago IL
The Cabo Brewing Group forces a red foiled pig to jump through a yellow hoop and makes us less suspicious of labels that say 'smooth rich taste'. This dark golden (barely amber perhaps) brew has a lasting near white head and a flavor very much on the sweet side; sweeter than 'glazed ham' as one reviewer put it. While we dislike sugar-corn syrup-honey formula beers this one derives a sweetness around a base of quality ale flavors and carmel malt. It is your basic CANDY-CARMEL MALT ALE but with a lighter color than often presented. Of course at the $8.25 price (90% of microbrews are lower here) it had better show quality. Some felt it was a notch or two over-sweetened and almost all thought is worth buying again. It is way ahead of most 'Red [beast name]' beers.

Redhook Blonde Ale
RATING: 4.5
Seattle WA/Portsmouth NH
We suppose some marketing fellow figured guys are more likely to buy a brew named 'blonde' than one named simply 'golden'. This dark golden brew is semi- sweet and made with light roasted barley, faint hops, and some wheat. It is one of a very few of the so-called 'refreshing' or 'drinkable' ales that is NOT just plain washed out lager. It has more substance than most golden ales and is superior to many of Redhooks other products in many opinions we gathered for this review. The label invites comments and suggests some respondent or another might get featured in a future ad. The product is freshness dated, reasonably priced (in our survey), and as one reviewer put it 'a refined and rare balance of rich flavor and smoothness'. Though 'the epitome' claim is a ???

Ridgeway Bad Elf Winter Ale
RATING: 4.5
Oxfordshire, England
We had debated doing a category in this book called "Ale - Winter" for those post-Fest offerings meant to warm the winter, chilly cockles and other things. Unfortunately, the "winter ale" is almost anything warming (usually malty) that brewers want that phrase to mean. Some are bright yellows, others rich Fest-like malty feasts, and still others very red or amber with various malt-to-hop proportions. It is not a style - just a marketing theme. This UK stuff is on the palest side of the so-called "winter ales", bright gold, short-lived head for me. The label is a classic with a wicked, little fellow with long noise and ears dispensing 6.0% stuff.

Cute but does the winter ale deliver? It is mid strength, low hops, medium malt, very smooth and soft, more a docile elf than a bad one. The finish has minor bitter notes, all of them good to me in a chilly state; though one friend of mind found it faintly hostile and towards "bad bitter" when a bit warmed towards the ambient range. It's a very nicely made, chemically flawless, creamy, and mild. It is not a value. It's like importing your Lexus from Germany - it will be fine, fun, and remarkable but why bother with the extra expense? It like this brew but it's at least twice the price of a comparble American micro. And this raises a very valid point in the beer universe when it comes to cost vs. opportunity. Is the novelty of a fun label and the social fun of jokes from the "bad elf" theme worth the extra few bucks? Maybe or not. You decide. Jokes and the occasion for risque, spicy bantor is sometimes worth the price of a curiously named but overpriced beer. Sometimes being or finding a "bad elf" is more than worth the bottled price of admission and twenty times that. Actually, it's better taking turns and making creative use of candy canes.

Rogue Chatoe Rogue First Growth Single Malt Ale
RATING: 4.0
Newport, Oregon
These 650 mil bottles come with a brew made mainly from Revolution hops and the trademarked Dare malt. It pours hazy gold with a fat, foamy head though very little lace. They admit it being medium-bodied and that is fine with me for they make enough turbo-charged stuff already. It must be very, very chilly for I found it a bit dull when temps fall much below 40 in my glass. It has a nice hops tang along with citrus notes. It favors the hop side of the hops:malt potency wars despite a name emphasizing the word malt. If very cold it's ultra-crisp and very good - otherwise there are finer, less expensive choices. Single malt may be a good thing in a Scotch but the world is still out with golden ales.

Rogue's Dead Guy Ale
RATING: 4.0
Newport, Oregon
This ale is of the golden amber hue and carries a deep microfoam head. Malt is the major flavor but one gets a nice rich hops bitterness in the finish. It is semi-sweet at first but not nearly so delicious as their Whale Ale. It has some of those same candy or honey qualities until the more bitter finish kicks in although the later is temperature sensitive. It has a more conspicuous nose than many of their other ales and the painted label even extols that virtue. One of our reviewers voted this 'the beer most likely to look right at a Grateful Dead concert' although perhaps a near relative of the hop is preferred there. Rogue makes so many good and excellent ales it is hard to pick a favorite. This was not one for most of us.

Rogue's Golden Ale
RATING: 4.0
Newport, Oregon
Oregon Brewing makes this dark golden ale with a lasting head and slow lace. It has more malt than hops flavor and the finish is 'herbal'. When cold it is crisp and interesting but quite frankly most golden ales are not as interesting to most of us a good golden pils, a wheat, or golden lager. This is smooth and uncomplicated enough to go with a rich meal but on its own it may not please. It has no flaws or bitterness (even if a little warm) but simply is neither rich for hops, malt, or yeast taste. In one experiment we blended this 50:50 with their Smoke Rauch Ale and made a genuinely pleasant ale that was crisp with a perfect hint of malt and smoke.

Rogue's Mexicali Ale
RATING: 4.5
Newport, Oregon
This golden ale carries a strong malt aroma and flavor but adds a tangy (maybe zippy) chili finish as if something called 'Mexicali' might come from Oregon. It is not so numbing and chiliful as the Cave Creek brew but in many ways is more of a real beer. Cave Creek is a light Pils that is quite dominated by the visual appearance of a tiny chili and the mild salsa-type finish. This is foremost a malty golden ale that has chili flavor (and no green vegetable gift) as a mere flavoring or spice. The approach is very different. Some of us thought this was a near perfect 5 bottle effort while to others it compromised both as malty ale and chili beer. Maybe that compro- mising blend is ideal for you. It is essential tasting for a true beer lover.

St. Peter's English Ale (Organic Ale)
RATING: 5.0
Suffolk, England
First thing you're amazed at is the ancient-looking, round-shouldered olive green glass bottles. They might just have been pulled up from the shipwreck so ancient is their style. Aroma hits you like a skunk driven a hops wagon. Color is hazy gold with long but distributed lace. They favor "lower carbonation" per their website and in fact the lace does end in time. Head is large, near white, and enduring. Flavor is very satsifying from start to finish. There's quite a flavor shift here, going from first pungent aroma through citrus and finally into a skunky-tart place; all of them pleasing and fun and more than little different. It is only 4.5% ABV so it goes down easy too. They use their own single strand yeast. Lightly malted barley comes from Norfolk and is organic like the hops. This is good summer bear when served very cold. It's a good as lemony wheat for this purpose.

Sea Dog Windjammer Blonde Ale
RATING: 4.0
Bangor, Maine
The color of this GOLDEN (okay BLONDE sounds better) ALE is deep golden with the smallest tinge of amber. The head is full, foamy, and cream-colored. One's first impression is that of quality bitter hops in some abundance. It is not much over-hopped as on the generous side of medium. The finish is a tad more sweet and candy-like but it is not really a sweet beer. Given the glorious gold ales from Rogue this one is in some tough competition. Most of us tended to favor a less strong central hops theme. As with their Brown Ale it might just be a notch too bitter. With fine-tuning it would be ideal. One reviewer noted 'overall like a well-hopped PALE ALE that happens to be golden'. To another it was 'brewed with skill and the right stuff but somehow missing the mark...'.

Star Hop Gold Ale
RATING: 5.0
Portland, Oregon
Star attributes theme behind this ale to their original brewery of 1894. That is not so unusual. But as many of their modern masterpieces are things like cherry stouts and elfin ales, a little nod to a 'normal' style is in order. Color is golden amber (apricot juice shade). The head is mid-sized and near white. They used rye to 'lighten the body' and included Tettnanger and Cascade hops. This is as close as they get a mid-strength beer and by no means it is less than flavorful enough. Reviewers found 'mellow hopping, slight honey, faint and mixed malts, and something odd but good - probably the rye'. You may swear you can taste a loaf a ryebread in there if you think about it long enough. Hop use is generous and like their other ales a good bitterness prevails.

Sweetwater Boat Trip Ale
RATING: 2.5
Atlanta, Georgia
The straw-pale ale has a large ivory head but that will be the best thing about it - the looks. While it has some malty backbone it is sickly sweet at times, oddly bitter and awkward at mid notes, and just plain undrinkable when a little less than freezing. It's unbearable quickly and I could not finish two bottles without blending in some of their yummy IPA for flavor correction. Clearly this brewery has talent but it is not well-distributed throughout their line. You get a 4.5 with 2.5 in the same box and that is going to intensify the unfavorable comparisons putting large boulders before the road trip.

Thomas Point Light Golden Ale
RATING: 5.0
Cambridge MD
The house is light not the beer. This product from Wild Goose Brewery of Cambridge MD is rich golden yellow with a long-duration head and high bubble activity. It is a hop-filled delight with crisp and clean flavor much the way that Samuel Adams Boston Ale will thrill the true beer enthusiast. We note that Michael Jackson called it 'mainstream' and gave it only one star. He must have had something else. This 1994 effort is superb and just right. 


Copyright 2000. TCR Press. All Rights Reserved.

ALE - HERBED AND USUSUALLY SPICED

This category includes unusual herbs and non-traditional spices that would not fit the Belgian or hop profiles of vegetative infusion.


ALE - INDIA PALE ALE (IPA)

The name India Pale Ale or IPA came from a style of ale brewed in England for export to their expats doing all sorts of administrative or unfriendly things over in a big colony called India since 1770 or so. The months it took for the journey by ship would make regular ale taste off. Instead, the used extra hops and perhaps malts as well to make the beer stronger, thus overcoming the lack of freshness - kind of like how chicken shops use the oldest chicken in the bin to make the spicy stuff. The name is used today for almost any very bitter, dry, very hoppy beer whose hops have a strong medicinal flavor but with pale ale yeast. The original or British IPA was more malty and dark than today's American forms, higher in alcohol (7-9%) as it fermented in the barrels, and essentially a very strong Pale Ale. There is some doubt whether all the low-level folks (like privates in the army) got to drink it strong because there are records of it being watered down a bit like we do with soda concentrates. The modern British IPA import is not usually stronger in alcohol because of restrictive laws around the world and the lack of any bottle or barrel fermentation. 

The so-called American IPA is the modern US microbrew version of the style: 1) probably less malty than the old style or at least how the Brits do it today (hops being our main boost), 2) often more citrusy than the Old Country (not always), 3) varying in color from light gold to dark amber-red (darker in the old stuff), 4) usually not fermented for months in barrels, and 5) using American grown hop varieties on occasion. 

Both styles can be made extra strength and these are called Imperial IPA or Double IPA labels.

Abita Jockamo IPA
RATING: 5.0
Abita Springs, Louisiana
Abita has always been a hit or miss with me, very little in the central grey zone. They have genius flashes, solid "go to" products, and also moments of "what were they thinking?". This label is named to honor the so-called "Mardi Gras Indians" famous for elaborate costumes drenched in feathers, beads, gold, and every ornate trapping known to human kind. The theme here was to make a beer that "stomps and shouts" as bolding as the Jockamo. Here I am glad to say is an genuine Abita hit. The aroma alone gets 5 bottles. wowee and hurray in a single sniff! Color is glorious medium amber with a rocky ivory head though little lace. The hop:malt balance clearly favors the vinous crop but the malt-load finish spells out TRUE BALANCE with a wild, engaging beat. It is the equal of any IPA I've tasted in two decades and that includes the enormously pleasing Breckenridge Small Batch 471 Double Hopped IPA and the luscious Grant's IPA. This is not a global thermonuclear hop bomb, it is a testimony to superb, stylous brewing. This Abita treasure is rare, heavenly hopped, flamboyant but well done to the smallest detail, bold but exquisite in the holding back, opulent yet a little bit aloof. There are many things in the Mardi Gras which are not what they appear but this is everything advertised, so much more than expected, and simply divine with a feather trim.

Allagash Hugh Malone Ale
RATING: 5.0
Portland, Maine
Technically this is a Belgian-style IPA, a super hoppy beer in corked bottles made with two-row and pale crystal malts. Simcoe or Warrior hops are added three times in the brewing process. ABV in only 8.5% and it has a good deal more grapefruity ale flavor than most IPAs. The malt foundation is also very solid. The brewer says "pine and grapefruit" and believe it or not that's a good thing in the beer world. Yeast is very abundant in the bottle and on the tongue. This is a wonderful product, clearly a delightful and valuable to the beer vocabulary, and easily worth $12 for that big 750ml bottle.

Avery duganA IPA
RATING: 5.0
Boulder, Colorado
The very scantilly glad woman on the label is East Indian in appearance but not modesty - fact I suspect will find some offensive and others of us, well, appealing. 99 IBU's and 8.9% ABV makes this bright amber ale a special find. The lace is limited but better than most US IPA copies. "Lupulin Rapture Incarnate!" proclaims the label, the word lupulin referring to the resin or resinous powder from the female hops flower cluster. There are a series of descriptions with such words as mantra, transcendental, divine, and unity but it's really the smooth fusion of piney hops that makes this a wonderful ale. "Now that's a real ale" I heard myself think about twice until I realized the ethanol must be getting to me. There is just enough sweetening and mitigating malt to temper the bitterness but not obstruct or erase it. The fluid is stalwart, strong yet very approachable and not the simple "more is always more" approach of some IPA brewers. Avery almost always has perfect discernment in the brewing of their special recipes and this is one that those shipping the original IPA decades ago would call "spot on". The duganA (and this is their chosen orthography of the name) is a hefty presentation of our beloved vine, one of the best from North America, and one of the finest from anywhere.

Ballast Big Eye India Pale Ale
RATING: 4.0
San Diego, Califoria
This label got a Bronze in the World Beer Cup in 2002 for American-style IPA. They are using "American High Alpha" hops and this rich golden brew is controlled, pleasing but not overwhelming, very much an IPA but one of masses to be sure. Their approach is very easy on the tongue but I am neither shocked or thrilled with the brewing skills. It's a nice IPA but not a worldclass one.

Bear Republic Racer 5 India Pale Ale
RATING: 5.0
Healdsburg and Cloverdale, California
"Independent since 1995", this brewery is apparently named for the fuzzy state beast of Califirnia. It's also a 7% ABV formula and that got my attention too. This "aggressive" IPA from Sonoma County is said to follow their motto of "Bigger is Better". I'm starting to like these dudes and dudettes. I do believe the "handmade" claim this time because all six of their labels were either badly glued or coarsely wrinkled. Drink up...they need a good label machine or a couple of thou for a good automation engineer or so I'm guessing. Labels are not what I'm about so the proof is in the fizzy fuel. Color is rich gold, on the darker side but not amber, long lace, big cream head of rocky form.

Aroma is a fest of fruit and something so pungent a hop-a-holic like myself could sniff it out blocks away. It tried it cold at first where it is potent yet highly crisp and refreshing - not sure how they managed that fine a balance. They recommend 45-50 deg. F. and it gets a bit more complex, malty and fruity, as it warms. Love every temp I tried. Their sense of balance at this level of potency is so well judged I am truly impressed and waiting now for my thesaurus.com to load. Forget that! Buy it and you can write your own joyous record, my friends. This nectar is so refined and pleasant one could never need another bright green Sierra Nevada fix - and for me that's saying a hoppy mouthful. Columbus and Cascade hops are used to a such perfection it make me think of a Bobby Flay chipotle mixed-grill kabob cooked and spiced to his lofty standards. Brewmaster Richard G. Norgrove is deservedly gaining much fame for his whole line of beers and to date this is my only experience. I'm not surprised this one got the Silver Medal in the 2004 World Bear...I mean Beer Cup and the Gold in the 2001 Real Ale Festival in San Diego; among many others. I am not getting hop-drunk by saying this is one of the new American standards for a fully-charged IPA or Imperial Pale Ale. I am frustrated yet that I cannot find all their line in NC this early 2009 but I understand they ship now; like their bottle labels the "Beer" link on their Gift Shop page takes you nowhere meaninful and needs work. And it's work well worth it. And for once this year I can say a $13.99 sixpack was priced some dollars below it's educational value and excitement score.

Bell's Two Hearted Ale
RATING: 5.0
Comstock, Michigan
They have a neat website where you can enter your batch number from the label and read more about the brew and get it's bottling date. The OG is 1.058 with ABV at 7%. It pours in the most luminous gold imaginable with a cream head of much substance. The aroma is pure hoppy heaven. The flavor is rich is hops, bitter but very pleasant and manageable ones, a decent backbone of malt in the supporting orchestra pit. Their aim was a crisp product with floral hops quality and they've succeeded very nicely. I think it's easily one of the best American IPA if you prefer the floral side of things; or should I say not mind that choice of varietals. It is piquant to perfection, a snappy little recipe executed as well as it can be. I was very much stimulated by this very cold but mid cold (45-50 deg. F.) is acceptable too, meaning it can sit at the bar or during a long game and keep it's edge. I've only found three of their many labels to date but plan on finding all I can in the coming months. As to the pretty (or ugly) green trout on the label I believe it refers to the Two Hearted River in Michagan where Hemingway used to vacation and in particular: drink and fish. It's a Short Hoppy Life, folks.

Blue Point Hoptical Illusion
RATING: 4.5
Patchogue/Rochester, New York
Patchogue NY is about 50 miles from Manhatten on the lower side of Long Island, a small and charming town which gave us such notable folks as Kevin Connolly of Entourage, yoga genius Chandra Om, and notorious killer (or not) Jeffrey MacDonald. The praiseworthy Navy Seal and Medal-of-Honor laureate Lt. Michael P. Murphy who lost his life in early Taliban wars in Afghanistran was also born there. Now, I suspect, it will be noted for Blue Point Brewing Co. too. It's kind of town you enjoy because it is 12K people small, traditional, humble $45K household income, 10% poor folks, and yet a short drive from big time, crazy culture should one ever need all that. Surely this brewery will need sales from all that. The label of this stuff looks like an artist's rendition of a dollar bill after the third day of a long acid trip with hop vines climbing like spirals of DNA. 

Color is rich gold, the head large, foamy-lumpy, and the nose a bit thin. Flavor is mid strength, very agreeable, sharp in the hops style, well supported with malts (a surprise in fact though one of colleagues disagrees), notable for 6.8% ABV, and loaded full of interesting notes. Those notes include some grapefruit (usually in a long, fading aftertaste), weak but variable pine, quality bitterness all the time, no medicine except for hints of mint, not the least bit 'o sweetness, and overall a balance that bodes well for the young 1998 firm. They also say it includes some exclusive, "rare hop" from Oregon (not disclosed) of which they bought the entire crop. It is a beer to learn from and I believe that is compliment enough. And someone should tell them a main menu offered as a musical pop-up is not going to seen by a big portion of their intended audience.

Breckenridge India Pale Ale
RATING: 3.5
LOCALE Denver Co\Breckenridge CO\Dallas TX\Buffalo NY
This IPA is more highly hopped than their regular Avalanche Ale yet the dark golden brew is not as authentic as we wished. There is usually a herbal or medicinal nip from a true IPA as exemplified by such standards as Star, Rock- ford, Tomcat, or Samuel Smith. It was certainly a decent experience and like any highly hopped beer it's flavor saturation on the tongue improves with the number of bottles! We used the first one or two for judging but some reviewers did confess a better feeling for it when compared directly with their Avalanche Ale. One recorded 'neither the price nor the availability would make me prefer this over a dozen or so other choices in the IPA field...'. 

Breckenridge Small Batch 471 Double Hopped IPA
RATING: 5.0
Denver, Colorado
While their regular IPA failed to impress, this amazing product in 9.2% ABV trim. Color is bright amber-gold with a nose very strong and lovely. The head is big, strong ivory with short-lived lace. The flavor thrills at first note and while suitably drowned in Humulus, it is surprisingly fruity and rounded out with good malts. A rich IPA with fruit flavors as good and strong as the hops - what a lovely invention! May I have 12 more, please.

Burton Empire India Pale Ale
RATING: 5.0
Burton-Upon-Trent, Staffordshire, England
This big-shouldered bottle has a very strange label for the "face" is a very narrow panel showing a military dude and a cricket player sipping it, bordered by much wider black panels with lots of information. After 6 months in the cask (a technique illustrated with a drawing) this stuff is served, following the old IPA (ie. colonial) policy of providing the British ruling establishment with highly hopped ales that would survive the long trip. Didn't those brilliant Brits figure it might just be easier to teach the Indian masses to brew them some fine ales for God knows that part of the world can grow hops and barlet to something approaching real quality.

Anyhow, a slug of familiar Burton Ale was a welcome taste of home and it remains a classic today under the simple yellow cap. Color is faintly hazed golden-amber, the head as tall as a British Captain's helmet with carbonation enough to float several large boats. It is highly hopped to be sure but not in crude excess or wasteful abandon - at least in our modern, imported to the former colony America version. One is impressed as much with the fruit notes as the enveloping hops and that's the sign of quality brewing. Malt happens but only as a light spicing. These Burton Ales are hoppy-fruit to perfection, this one favoring the hops in the end. Squash Soup is not just about the squash but also the spices and butter and cream. India Pale Ale is not just doubling up on the hops per barrel nor should it ever be. It is about more hops to be sure but also getting a well-rounded flavor worth waiting for the next shipment from afar. God knows, if the Brits in India just wanted strong spicy drinks with alcohol they'd have done just as well to mix drinks with that country's fine array of spices. Burton Ale is something different and truly English and again...worth waiting for. 

Clipper City Heavy Seas: The Big DIPA
RATING: 5.0
Baltimore, Maryland
Enhancing our inner Pyrate is full of loot and pillage in terms of a dried, golden treasure called hops. Five pounds per barrel of the treasure is used to make this Double IPA (DIPA) with 10.5% ABV and 75 IBUs. Heavy Seas pours a bright amber, not dark, but luminous to be sure. The head is large, creamy, and ruggedly foam-formed. I was quite shocked how this much hops and ABV was hidden in such an agreeable, suave presentation. It's a velvet hammer filled with hops - maybe the cutlass from behind you never feel until knocking on Davy Jone's locker. I had expected a strong IPA with raw potency, a hard punch, and perhaps not much subtlety in the delivery. Here we have real potency, an insidious approach with precise, well-judged brewing, brilliance from first note to last, and yet not oversweetened as would be any easy solution. In the final portage this brew is as fine, solid, and sublime as anything in the DIPA category known from the US to date (September 2009). Medals are surely on the way.

Coronado Idiot IPA (Imperial IPA)
RATING: 5.0
Coronado, California
Here is a so-called West Coast Style Imperial IPA is an "intelligent beer" using four hop varieties. The idea is to be intelligent enough to buy it and made yourself an idio afterwords due to the 8.5% blast. It is dry-hopped and includes whole cone Cascade. There are lots of nautical themes in beer these days but the lusty mermaid on the label is artistically drawn here, showing beer suds over the usual cleavage and with a long, wide sheet of red hair mimicing a red naval flag. This is part of their Crown Series. 

It pours a rich amber, the head off white and lasting. The quality of the hops is remarkable, smooth at every turn except when joyfully bitter by last notes. You get your hops in meritorious doses, never overbearing or strong for the approach along, nicely judged in every passage. We have an elaborate approach to brewing here, one very admirable (or would that be Admiral?), and wisely complicated - that would be Monet and BMW complicated not the Target Chinese bicycle-from-hell complicated. A bit of crystal and caramel malt brings up the rear and one gets rich dark, fruits at most approaches; all these wonderfully interwoven with the earthy, piney, and bitter hops. Here we have a delightful tangle, made of many good things delivered with a bang of the strong intoxicant, intricate and sweet as the mermaid sometimes, and other times as thumping and rigorous as the waves at sea. It is a perfect storm of flavor (not of hops abuse or excessively-dosed danger), ready to charm, occasionally enigmatic in a brief note, and overall an upbeat, engaging beer-drinking experience. I would know less for not traversing from brainy to blabbering in a space of twenty sip-worthy minutes. (I had to backspace three times to get sip-worthy spelled right!)

Cottonwood Endo IPA
RATING: 5.0
Boone, North Carolina
Brewed with "altitude" this Blue Ridge mountain area product is overflowing with flowery hops and a smidgen of malt to round it out. The chose the name "endo" since the hops are added at the "end" of fermentation - though the prefix more correctly means "internal". They also note than "Endo" is a bicycling term for "over the handlebars" and they also wished to honor their mountain cycling team. Fortunately the brew itself is more clear. There is not the least hint of undesirable bitterness and just the slightest hint of sweetness in the finish. As such it is highly drinkable (and that means QUANITY). One can hardly say that of most IPA products today. This is very pleasant treat for the hop addict and we only hope their distribution is expanded.

Fiddler's Green India Pale Ale
RATING: 4.0
Portland, Oregon
I was confused with this label for some things are made in old Utica NY (Matt's) and this one in Portland. This IPA has been shipped from Utica too according to my research. Color is golden-amber, the head cream and medium-large, the aroma faintly hoppy. The hops intensify from the first to late notes, finishing a slightly sweet bitter, thus very "drinkable" and sure to more popular than the full bore, drier, more medicinal stuff. It's good, proficient and competent if you will, not terribly memorable nor clearly a "must drink again" label. The quality of US IPA's is certainly improving along with the shear number of them. Hardcore IPA-heads will dismiss it for the slightly less than unrelentless hops attack they demand - it's more like a rough massage. There's a place for IPA's of this lower strength but it is NOT IPA-Light by any means - don't get me wrong. One hop-headed friend said they "sugared it up" in the finish to keep pretty girls and Bud drinkers from spitting it out. Perhaps so but even the most lauded breweries have a couple "drinkable", sweetened offerings for the "no sweat" masses. I'm hard on breweries who over-sugar and make beer soda. This is a simple twist and a respectible compromise in my opinion - other opinions will vary.

Flying Dog Doggie Style Ale
RATING 4.5
Denver, Colorado/Aspen, Colorado
Broadway Brewing makes this for Flying Dog with dry hopping. While their Road Dog Ale is wild in graphics and text this is more brewpubby and artsy; even the bottle has a lovely leeping beast molded in for you collectors. Only the name implies a bit of mischief and wit. Available as both 22oz and sixpacks this brew is rich golden with a yellowish head. While their Scottish Road Dog Ale was a bit sugary-simple this is a HOPPY PALE ALE of the highest order. We have no hesitation to class it as INDIA PALE ALE due to the depth and flavor of the hops. Reviewers here noted "big head...good color..IPA like aroma" and also "herbal hop-drenched feast..$3.19 was a steal for the big 22 ouncer..I would surely drink it many times again". Good balance of sweetness and hops. Take it in long, hard, and assume the position.

Grant's India Pale Ale (IPA)
RATING: 5.0
India Pale Ale or IPA is a subclass of Ale and this is surely one of the very finest. The style comes from 19th century British shipments to the lonely ruling class in India. Color is semi-cloudy dark golden. Head foamy and long. Flavor shows the 'extra hops' addition with a full complexity Bert Grant is is known for. Starts hoppy and sweet but the finish is dry and can give rise to pleasant bitterness if warming up. Superior to McEwans Export IPA and that will be heresy to some but it is in fact truth to those honest and fair.

Great Divide Hercules Double IPA
RATING: 5.0
Denver, Colorado
I rather frown on paying a full $9.00 (January 2009) for a domestic 650ml bottle from anyone. The hue is bright amber when poured, the head a rocky cream of much quality. "Not for the faint of heart" is it's motto and that prepared me...a little. The nose matches my ultimate IPA fantasy. The hops is generously applied, not so much piled or dumped, as expertedly layered and woven with a strong malt foundation. I even got a couple of short choco-malt buzzes in two finishes and that is REALLY the stuff of sudsy dreams. It is sweet enough to keep the bitter bugs at bay but 9.1% of you-know-what keeps the finish a good deal more dry and bracing. The 85 IBU's are noted along with some Top 100 ratings in various beer challenges. the I do hope the Surgeon General says we must all consume massive quantities of hops for our health - in which case these hoppy nectar is better than a trunkload of crisp apples to keep the HMO away. Great Divide got this one on-point and unerringly true to the Double IPA recipe held precious in our hophead heads and hearts. Better get a Herculean comment in here somewhere...how about...colossal, gargantuan, and mighty? This is a very impressive effort, all their Titan IPA is and two hundred pounds of sinew more.

Great Divide Titan IPA
RATING: 4.5
Denver, Colorado
This "aggressively hopped" product joins an increasingly large and surprisingly high quality group of American IPA's that are flooding the market - and my throat. 6.8% ABV is nice but it's no boutique, limited edition IPA at that value. Color is a lightish amber, very nice with backlight, the head full cream and mid-length here. Traditional American hops aroma predominates but not especially yummy. It's on the dry, bitter of the style but the finish is not sharp nor offensive. It's one of the "easy bitter" finishes that marks the finest discharge of the brewing arts. The malt support is barely sufficient and also of a higher grade; though only detectable in the very last finish notes if then. I'd have dialed the malt up at least one notch unless they have another that is supposed to do that - breweries have roles these days and lots of versions and subversions of every style! If you want your IPA moderate-high in vigor, dry, bitter, American varietal in flavor, low in malt, never sweet, and simply a hops celebration this is going to be a nice find for you. For me it's very, very good - not quite my first choice.

Green Flash West Coast India Pale Ale
RATING: 4.5
San Diego County, California
Here's another ISB in ardent amber trim, a big bubble-filled head of ivory, collapsing in fair time, and an aroma so full of hops you're almost drunk by a single sniff. If this were a movie it would be called INVASION OF THE HOP VINES and we'd all succomb gladly, happily, entwined in the glorious green towers, numbed into submission, and all the happier for it. We'd need to rely on the Doppelbockers with their resistance for the drug HOPS to rescue us. Some of us would refuse rescue and convert fully to the bitter, hop-clinging, cluster-loving, traditional, and old-fashioned religion of Humulus. This stuff is potent enough, rich enough, but not balanced enough. A little more malt would do it well and that need not take away from pungent blitzkrief of our favorite vining crop.

Greenshields India Pale Ale (IPA)
RATING: 2.5
Raleigh NC
This former product from RDU NC is bright golden with a hint of amber. The head is thin but of large bubbles. Like all their other 3 beers (Stout excluded) this one is also underpowered. It is one of those mass-market drinkable sort of ales but such are insulting when you pay $8.99 per sixpack. IPA are supposed to be extra- hopped and this one is only moderately so. As a semi-sweet golden lager it is just okay but it is SEVERAL DOLLARS out of whack in value. At $5.99 or $4.99 it might pass muster for some part of the market. As a prestige microbrew it is absolutely out of the running. We recently thrilled at a true IPA from Sea Dog of Bangor ME. That was a buck cheaper and thrilling. As Stormin' Norman would say: it is neither an IPA, nor a pale ale, nor a good value, nor a...

Harpoon India Pale Ale (IPA)
RATING: 4.5
Boston, Massachussets
Your first impression of this is the pleasant aroma. That's a good sign. Out comes a medium-light amber fluid with a deep, enduring, ivory head. It is very nicely hopped at first sip and the quality and complexity of the same is just right - then. The finish lets down a bit but not so badly as their Alt. We think a perfect IPA has enough maltiness to round it out. This is more of a single theme - hops and nothing more. If you are a hopaholic this is just fine. Overall and given the $8.00 price we think some other choices are superior. In fairness two reviewers felt it was a perfect IPA to them. In any event it is head and shoulders above their Alt Ale. One reviewer expressed the idea that "it is quite charming and refreshing...appropriately bitter but smooth enough."

Hoppin' Frog Mean Manalishi Double I.P.A.
RATING: 
Akron, Ohio
First of all, these Hoppin' things are a tad expensive - some $10 per 22oz. in a market where strong pales go for $5-8 a bottle of similar size and strength. It pours light-bright amber, the head light brown and rocky-tallish. The ABV hops around at 8.2% and the label calls it "extreme" and "super-assertive". Hop potency is off the charts and surprising the finish is good bitter and not assertive turned ugly aggressive. The brewers have judged this very well and such is very wise for them at this price range! In the so-called Double IPA or Imperial IPA category it hangs with anyone I know and yet it doesn't have as much malty backbone as some might like. It's all about the viney thing and not much else. The whole "Mean Manalishi" thing is curious. It sounds Indian (the New Delhi kind not the rain dance kind) but "Manalishi" in American parlance tends to refer to a Fleetwood Mac and also a Judist Priest song. The "Green Manalishi" is one who flashes lots of green cash to attract partners and attention in general. There are rumors it also referred to a potent brand of LSD. One almost to be some kind fo Manalishi to buy this $10 beer bottle with cash.

Their comments about "toasty, carmelized" flavors do not ring true for me. They might have made it a super strong hops tea (then end of work) but the finish is so refined and easy - even after two full glasses of the nectar. It is not sweetened much either. I would like the malt brought up into the finish a tad but I cannot fault them when the goal was a DIPA. 

Left Hand 400 Pound Monkey IPA
RATING: 4.5
Longmont, Colorado
With a monkey-infested label that either charms or offends the British, Hindus, and Sikhs, this 6.7% English style IPA is amber-gold. The hops are a mixture of floral, pine, and citrus; the later most subdued. It comes off balanced even though fairly intense in some middle passages. It is not for the timid and if you can't handle 400 hop-wielding monkeys climbing up your back and on your head - look elsewhere for mild, tender IPAs. The finish has a lighter left hand. There can be some awkward middle notes where carmel, hops, and assorted other flavors trade positions and somethings a theme gets lost. Two reviewers told me "a pine cone resin grenade for those who like such things...some good sips but also a couple crude ones" and "hop-lovers delight and not entirely British style as advertised...more American eccentric IPA...the malt foundation is well crafted and I found quality fruit along with some caramel. Not for the faint-hearted since most strongs IPAs come off like herbal tonics".

Left Hand Warrior IPA with Colorado fresh hops
RATING: 4.5
Longmont, Colorado
The label is a work of art, showing a benevolent Cat Woman sort of character in a leather mask, the edges of which turn into angry cats, rams, elk, a raven, and a witch. The red spaces between these creatures cleverly reveal even more outlandish beats, two of which are surely a rabid rat and a warthog. There may be up to 6 others and so if one is very smashed on this or any other handy brew, the game to find all the beasts can commence. It pours a dashing bright amber with a vast head not unlike the mountains near Longmont except for a darker, dirty snow color. It delivers with a mid IPA strength - I can hardly tell anymore with no many ultra, super, Imperial, double, triple IPA's served of late - and finishes dry and smooth. It is not tarted up, just a decent, clean, representative, solid as a mountain rendition of the style. I like it alot but if you're playing that stronger is always better game, you may find it less than shocking. Frankly I don't want nor need to shocked and overwhelmed with every new IPA I try. Left Hand got this one right and used sharp, fresh hops to pull it off.

Lost Coast Indica India Pale Ale
RATING: 4.5
Eureka, California
I'm not sure the good people from India will always appreciate their beloved god Ganesha on American beer label anymore than we'd like Mary or Jesus on a package of virgin rasagolla or holy kuzhl. Political correctness in the realm of beer nomenclature does not seem to exist yet and perhaps that is good thing. This unfiltered IPA reaches the glass in a medium amber shade, the head cream-colored, and ample in all directions. The saturation of hops is apparent in the "nose". First sip is that of a very refined, strong, but not crude hops. It is weaker than two of my IPA expert friends said they liked but they still respected this one. The ABV is higher than normal but not listed on my bottles. The "radical bittering" comes from Columbus hops with later dry-hopping from the Willamette and Centennial flowers. Sweetness is medium (5 of 10 points) to me. I don't like my IPA brands so strong they are just crude hop tea, mask everything I eat in the next three meals, and give me Listerine-strength breath until Saturday. This is what might be called "good restaurant-friendly IPA" (not overpowering good foood but complimenting it) and this means a calculated moderation instead of a cheap, money-saving weakness. My two IPA expert friends thought it was a 4.0 at best but they like everything unbounded and hopped enough to sprout a vine from disgarded bottles. I found this balance to be sensible, well-considered, and just right for a cold treat.

Maclay Wallace India Pale Ale
RATING: 5.0
BREWBASE AWARD: BEST INDIA PALE ALE 1998

Alloa From Thistle Brewery of Maclay and Co. Ltd. comes this golden-amher pale with a lasting near white head. It is richly flavored with the high hopping that the labels admits to be India Pale Ale. It is named for the Scottish knight and patriot William Wallace who took on 'the ursurper' Edward of England. The gold on black thistle cap is a collector's gem as well. It is rather dry and a genuinely superior product when you can find it. There are few other pale ales (richly hopped or not) that have such a refined balance with malt. Reviewers noted 'richer than I usually like an ale but undoubtedly a hallmark piece of brewing' and 'wonderfuly hop-drenched, well-malted, and perfectly dry...a great find to add to my all time favorites'. Not to be missed.

Mad River Jamaica Brand Sunset India Pale Ale 
RATING: 4.0
Blue Lake, California
I'm the last guy on the block to want to stiffle creativity but I'd almost favor a law limiting beer labels to just five or six words in the brand name! Do we really need two countries, madness, sunsets, and rivers in a single beer name? This 7% ABV product is slightly foggy amber, big tall irregular head, fruity hops coming to the olfactories in mere milliseconds. Hops are full, fruit a secondary note (not an equal partner), and the finish potent but smooth and with easy-bitterness. Easy-bitter should be someone's trademark. Can't find it but there is an Extra Easy Bitter beer recipe circulating about. Anyhow, back to point: This brew is good, floors above the usual hoppy microbrew and average IPA, and it would make any tourist anywhere happy to find it flowing from a found walnut bar. I'd down a half dozen or take a sixpack back to the my hotel room but if I other choices from a big beer shop, I'd go elsewhere. Nice stuff but not a new experience nor a special one.

Mad River Steelhead Extra Pale Ale
RATING: 3.0
Blue Lake, California
Mad River has a couple of labels, Jamaica Brand being one and Steelhead the other. A "steelhead" for the record is an ocean-traveling form of rainbow trout, named for the metallic appearance of it's body. The amount of irradescence and red striping varies and on this label it's maxed out. They started the basic Extra Pale line in 1989 and this current version is not so much extra in flavor as literally extra pale in color. It's unfiltered and very smooth, pouring out with Pilsner-like aesthetics. There is faint spice, low hops, and a moderate-high amount of dryness in the end. It is essentially a very drinkable American Pale Ale Light but done to a quality level at least. I'm not impressed and have no need for it - save a very pricey, subtle meal (like trout with truffles) and this is the only microbrew on the menu. It will not hopify your food or malt your dinner to death. It's extra pale and extra weak and it need not exist.

Magic Hat HI.P.A.
RATING: 4.5
South Burlington, Vermont
This 5.8% IPA pours a cloudy gold with a big cream head lasting longer than Vermont maples drip syrup on a warm day. Lace is superbly long. This HIGH-P-A is called such for its HIGHLY hopped and is part of their "Season-ale" line for "vernal vitality". It is dry-hopped again for even more sweet punch. English Ale yeast is used with Columbus hops (a good piney-floral variety) and with a tad trace of Pale Ale malts. I shouted out "yes!!" a bit too loud in the Harris-Teeter when pulling out a bottle and spying the very generous swirl of goodness in the HUD light. There's a nice bitterness tempered by sweetish mid notes but the finish is more dry and bitter yet. I does that sweet-hops to dry-hops slide thing very, very neatly. It's high-big hops without the pucker and cringe. There's a bit of supporting yeast-fruit but I'd turn that up another notch and also crank up the background malts a hair. This is very near a perfect IPA but I like either solid fruit support or ample malt foundation and sometimes both before a perfect rating. I will accept super-ultra-floral hops lacking fruit or malt if and only if the effect is MOAB GBU-43/B jaw-dropping.

Marston's India Export Pale Ale (IPA)
RATING: 4.5
Burton on Trent, England
Well I guess this is an IEPA rather than a regular IPA. The brew is golden with a bit of an amber glow for good measure. The big cream head would last an entire passage from India we suppose. A quality hoppy-skunky aroma is apparent. The nip of the hops (quite expected in this style) is tempered by a dash more sweetness than one usually expects. But with Marston we are used to getting something a bit different after all. While some IPA enthusiasts are looking for a liquid strong enough to disinfect battle wounds, this one strikes a rather agreeable balance between potency and pleasantness. Reviewers were vocal on this one but some liked the label's description of it being 'well- attenuated'; probably because they'd enjoyed too much to find a dictionary.

McEwans Export
RATING 4.0
Edinburgh, Scotland
This is described as 'India Pale Ale' and is from Scottish Courage (formerly Scottish and Newcastle) of Edinburgh via the San Francisco importer. It is one of very few brews from Scotland that seems popular in most US markets. The color is fairly dark but clear amber with a substantial head. The herbal, quasi-medicinal flavor is difficult for some people to like at first. Still others with an IPA passion say it may not be quite potent enough to suit their fancy. It is about as close to hop tea as one is likely to get in bottles. Smooth it is but with today's beer lover accustomed to even strong American pale ales McEwen's may not be as rewarding. Yet compared to most North American IPA's this label is still fairly unique. But we'd prefer to turn to Maclay, Monrell's, or Samuel Smith as more agreeable European standards for the style. This is one label where opinions will vary but on the whole many enthusiasts find it a tad underpowered.

Medocino White Hawk Original IPA
RATING: 4.0
Saratoga Springs, New York
Medocino in their old CA trim or in the new NY origin have always given us fine beers and artful labels with an ornithological or nature-inspiried theme. It pours rich gold, the head creamy, lasting. The nose is hoppy but not as much as expected and recalled from past sips in dark rooms. As I do beer blending (often between and among 2-3 styles) I detect a bit of IPA x Scottish (Scotch) Ale in the DNA. There are some tart, medicinal, sweet, molasses-laden notes here than one is more often to find in a white hawk from say...Edinburgh. There's IPA bitterness but a sweetness envelops it or by some accounts ruins it. I like this bold hybrid and am not sure they always played it this way. The finish can get a bit ragged even if you're expecting a medicinal Scotch Ale zing. In the 2008 trim, it's fascinating, luscious, and fun - far from perfect.

Middle Ages Grail Ale
RATING: 4.5
Syracuse, New York
'Fresh from our castle to yours' this reddish-amber ale easily tempts you with the grey-toned stone castle for a box. Rays of sunlight highlight a holy vessel inside holding a big foamy brew. The head is substantial and creamy white. There is some aroma for those with keen sensors for hops. It is very hoppy of a rather pungent (American we believe) sort with only a hint of malt. One might almost put this with an INDIA PALE ALE (IPA) given the herbal, bitter hop nature that charms you so quickly. If you are in search of a grail (holy or otherwise) full of very nicely hopped beer this is your find. It ranks among the best of the fully-hopped American microbrews from the East Coast in our book. A reviewer here noted: 'triple hopped hinting of mint and malt'.

Monrells Oxford Castle Ale (IPA)
RATING: 5.0
Oxford, England
The English should be great at India Pale Ales (IPAs) since they invented them. This is a perfect gem. Even if not served at the recommended 50-55 degrees F. it is a tangy delight with immense hop-fulness. At $3.29 per 1 pint 2.7 fl. oz. bottle it is a wondrous value. Color is bright copper amber with a lasting ivory head of some size. It has all the molasses-carmel charm of Old Peculiar but it finishes rather dry. It's a REAL ALE by any standard that a British ale fan might construct. Reviewers noted 'while other IPA are different there is none that is finer' and 'simply a liquid candy...ideal for winning over your friends to superior beer'. There is no excuse not to try this unless you can't find it. The only bad thing: the 'best by' date was not marked. Brewbase 1996 award as the Best IPA found that year.

Mother Earth Sisters of the Moon IPA
RATING: 5.0
Kingston, North Carolina
I first discovered this brewery at a local Whole Foods, appropriately on Earth Day, and noticed the three chicks dancing around the fire on the label. These are apparently the sisters of the moon, though still clothed and not with any hint of being at the final destination of old style IPA. For the record, Kingston NC is a small town between Raleigh and the beach, known to some of you for the Kingston Indians minor leaque ball team, and named for King George III of England. Former UNC and Mavericks star Jerry Stackhouse is from there. Speaking of staked houses, My Name is Earl star Jaime Pressly is also from this town. She'd make a nice sister of the moon....(mind's eye, XXX mind's eye here). Getting back to the point of this review, this mostly golden-amber IPA has a rich near white head. I was jolted by the rich dose of hops so very nicely judged to caress more than thump you over the head - more Jaime and less Jerry in this regard. The finish is dry but not oversaturating in the chosen theme, very precisely gauged, and delightful in all the notes. There is nothing to dislike and everything to like - the whole package complete, well-rounded, and refreshing. IPA should not be a punishment as cod liver oil or needlessly strong, cleverly named cocktail. I am so used to southern, especially NC and SC, microbreweries coming up with "the full line" and lasting 2-4 years or less. Not much learned and not much lost. This product is arresting, noble, and made with true, international class right off the bat. Fresh hops are the key and this effort is rewarded manyfold but make an IPA that is actually ENJOYABLE and alluring. You'd believe it if I served it with a Rogue or Sierra Nevada label on it. Owners Stephen Hill and Trent Mooring have blended green brewing technology with a focus on research and education. This company is one to watch and I will be getting all their bottled stuff in short order. 

Moylan's Hopsicle Imperial "Triple Hoppy" Ale
RATING: 5.0
Novato, California
These $10 750ml bottles are killing my review budget but most of them are better than trunk full of crappy sixpacks. 9.2% ABV is strong but not overwhelming. Anthanum, Chinook, and Tomahawk hops are used in high doses - "pucker up!" as the label says. Before we go further note a 2009 Platinum Medal at the World Beer Championships and a 2007 Gold at the GABF. Frankly, all these events have 498 categories so that even Bud Light will win something bright and shiny! But this is as far from a light beer as a nuclear bomb from a firecracker. The head is mid-length, creamy, and aromatic to be sure. The color is rich amber. It has enough sweetness and faint malting to keep it from being overbearing. Still I'd sip it slow, just a bit at the time, and enjoy it in small, fun doses.

Natty Greene's Cannonball Double IPA
RATING: 4.5
Greensboro, North Carolina
Maj. Gen. Nathanial Greene was one of George Washington's most gifted and skilled officers and his likeness is on the cap of this very fine product brewed in Greensboro, North Carolina. Washington entrusted him with the managing the defense of no less important spot than Boston where that other heroic-looking, patriot, beer dude is from. This is a nice-looking, very collectible cap for those of you who note such things. The city is named after him and is famous for Guillard College and Greensboro College, a huge teacher-training school now called UNC-Greensboro. They are more recently famous for being home of the Atlantic Coast Conference and where Honda Jets are being built. Anyhow, this medium amber brew has an enticing aroma that is met with what I think is really 1.5X IPA. I say this mainly because I've had doubles stronger and the occasional single just about as hoppy. The quality of the bitterness rivals a fine British ale but the finish is a tad too simple and monotone to make it perfect. Their website states that Centennial and Antanum hops are used for just the right citrus and spice notes. ABV% is 8.0% and you notice it in a good way. I think I'd like more warm malt in the finish notes and that would earn 'em a trip to New Delhi.

New Belgium Ranger India Pale Ale
RATING: 5.0
Fort Collins, Colorado
This 70 IBU offering is made with Simcoe, Cascade, and Chinook hops - hardly the stuff of jolly old England or more jolly New Delhi. This label got my attention in the supermarket one day for few breweries use splitpea-soup lime green and dark brown on a label - that defies some kind of marketing rules I suppose. They "pop" because they don't pop and you almost know it's a microbrew thing for the curious look of it that stands out. Let this be a lesson to microbreweries who try to look too much like mass-market pisswater. These colors are yummy enough to me as the colors are close to malt and hops in fact. The 6.5% ABV beverage is dispensed in a bright, Pilsoid gold color with an antique white head of small size under which lace is thin but sure. The nose is very crisp of hops, clearly of those special varieties and not what a UK firm would or could send over. The hopping gives it a strong but very bright, light on it's feet flavor, exceedingly well judged and delivered. Aside from the worthless "American IPA" class of some competitions (which also accept very, very traditional recipes), we could use a class devoted only to American style hops which are a clear departure. This would give nearly all of them a run for their money up the hop trellis and down a hundred rows. 

This is one of the best US takes on the IPA style and I really love it. The presentation is truly of a hops tea, trimmed with the requisite ethanol molecule, sprightly in all notes, nimble, never medicinal or harsh, and just what I need when craving an ample portion, a full share of the glimmering vertical vine. Their website breaks down the recipe well - Cascade (citrus), Chinook (floral, citrus), and Simcoe (fruity) and then a second dose of Cascade. Pale and caramel malts are used to harmonize the recipe top to bottom. The short of it is that here is a genuinely brilliant take on the IPA style with New World hops, heavenly notes coming to the fore in a brew so enjoyable it will delight, overwhelm in sexual way for your tastebuds, and make the Old World pharmaceutical, cod live oil view of IPA a thing to be recalled but found out of favor. 

New Holland Mad Hatter India Pale Ale
RATING: 5.0
New Holland, Michigan
"Delicious beer delivered with painstaking consistency, that's our philosophy". From my experience this is absolutely true. The color is bright golden-amber, a more golden shade than often found in the IPA family. The lace lasts awhile and the head is large and surprising pale in color. It is bright, tart, and the hops seem more alive than many IPA's and I believe the quality of the hops has to be accounted for on that note. Mad Hatter is a righteous, true-to-style, very enjoyable product, quite pleasant and yet drinkable in the best sense of that word. There's not a thing wrong, to be refined, replaced, corrected, etc. I would not change it except to make it more available in my part of the world.

New Knoxville India Pale Ale
RATING: 4.5
Knoxville, Tennessee
This brewery makes 25-barrel batches using British methods. English 2-row malt, a 200-year-old English yeast, and a combination of UK and American hops are utilized. Open-top fermentation and brick-lined brew kettles are mentioned. The color is a bright golden amber with a lasting cream head. As IPA's go it's rather sweet but that rich hops bite is certainly there. They even confess to it being 'medium-bodied' within the IPA style but in this case that is no fault. There is enough hops to please most folks and the sweetish appeal is not overdone; assisted by a drier finish which reaffirms the traditional effect. It is overall a very delightful beer and every student of Southern craft brewing is advised to seek this out.

Oregon India Pale Ale (IPA)
RATING: 3.5
Portland, Oregon
Oregon Brewing of Portland makes this IPA style which originally was developed for British soldiers in India. It become famous since then as a strong and rather flavorful brew full of hops for an herbal or pleasantly medicinal effect. Color is medium amber with a short-lived head and extremely long car- bonation. Strong hop aroma is evident. While some IPA finish dry and with the punch of a good British bitter ale this one is slightly sweetened. It has an almost an apricot fruit appeal not unlike some California amber ales. Review- ers noted 'delicious nectar-hop quality that is hard to put down' and 'perhaps not authentic by British IPA or US standards like Grant/Yakima.' It was a very pleasant drink but many of us had doubts if the name is fitting.

Rockford India Pale Ale (IPA)
RATING: 5.0
Wilmington, Delaware
Back in 1996 BrewBase (then only on computer) gave this our BEST SWEET INDIA PALE nod. From flavor to color this is one of the finest ales from the East Coast. Color is glowing amber with an enduring ivory head of medium depth. Unlike so many microbrews who try the IPA game this one is fully hopped like the true British style. What is sets it apart is the addition of that wonderfully, tasty, carmel, candy maltiness we call 'CANDY ALE'. Several top Canadian ales have this high hops-candy theme. One reviewer thought dry bitter finishes are required for a truly authenthic IPA. Maybe so (we're still researching) but in the meantime we'd prefer to think of it as a clever enhancement. The depth and sophisti- cation of the flavor will win over almost any enthusiast; and one even suggested this $6.49 'microbrew bargain of the year' get an impossible 5.5 rating. Yummy!

Rogue Yellow Snow IPA
RATING: 4.5
Newport, Oregon
Have all the good beer names been taken? Was Golden Vomit not available? That would have been a more pleasant thought than this one. Given that's it the Rogue dudes I give them a good deal of slack for their products are uniformly superior if not brilliant and with fun names. The "Together We Can Do It" label shows a yellow-bearded dude in a red ski jacket holding a black Lab; looking for all the world like an older George Clooney c. 2020. By that time he might be wandering the remote slopes of Aspen reporting cases of yellow snow and warning the tourists who are frightened by his bleached blonde beard. "Isn't that that actor from that show, Madge?". "Why don't you think before you speak Harald! What would a famous actor being doing out here removing yellow snow spots?".

Let's sample the snow shall we? Their full-disclosure type painted labels reveal it uses two-row pale, Cara Foam, and Melanoiden malts together with Amarillo hops and Pacman yeast. The Cara Foam type of malt that is stewed to produce rich dextrin chains and a full body to the brew. It pours a rich dark gold tinged amber, the head large and creamy. The aroma is far more fruity than typical of the style. It does not however carry much fruit in the main flavor notes. Big smooth hops come up early and it ends with a quality bitterness, fading in and out with many complex flavors. It finishes a bit strong and bitter to suit my taste for the style and I do like a tad more sweetness and fruit overall.

Samuel Smith's India Ale (IPA)
RATING: 5.0
Tadcaster, N. Yorkshire, England
Smith's dark golden ale is top fermented in stone 'Yorkshire squares' using 'aroma and flavour from Britain's best hop gardens'. This flowery language is matched by the product's quality. It is wonderfully hop-saturated with just the perfect balance of sweetness and bitterness. Suitable malt notes create a truly flawless IPA that could hardly be improved. Other IPAs are perhaps more bitter or more herbal but this is one of the smoothest without being weak. The 550ml bottles have a fascinating label that looks more than a stock certificate. The $3.99 price is simply remarkable. One reviewer here noted 'Excellent lasting head of some size...if you like your hops uncompromisingly full and semi-sweet there is no finer choice'. Another said 'A worthy standard to judge American IPAs'.

Shmaltz HE'BREW Bittersweet Lenny's R.I.P.A.
RATING:  4.0
Saratoga Springs, New York
This 10% ABV "chosen brew" is a tribute to comedian Lenny Bruce and it carries the line from Dick Schaap: "Finally, one last four-letter word concerning Lenny Bruce. DEAD. At 40...that's obscene". A little neon-glow-style panel on the label says "Brewed with an OBSCENE AMOUNT of malts of hops" [their emphasis]. This is promoted as a DOUBLE IPA with a bit of rye which is something on order of saying it's only a category 10 hurricane, a quad-turbo Ferrari, or vacuum with the combined suction power of all the friendy ladies in downtown Reno. Oh wait, sorry! This is HE'BREW with a nod to Lenny...better make that enough potency to part the depths of the F*%king Red Sea.

It's the brightest amber possible in any liquid, good lace, and a solid aroma of hops that might be used to replace Ricola coughdrops. It is hops x 4 but in the IPA arena it is not much a double as a 1.5x. The softish, malt finish is decent but not as good a buffer as it might be. It is excessively bitter in my opinion and might have been mellowed a bit more. Harsh it is and that is perhaps intended but it does not make it an ultimate IPA. When you double the mint one must also double the pleasure. The very same is applicable to the similarly tangy, zippy, nipping thing we call hops. The bite must match the sugar group equivalents in whatever sweetening form is preferred. Here we have a bite, a little malt to asuage it, and not enough polish in the end.

Sea Dog India Pale Ale (IPA) u rai 5.0 701 Bangor ME The label proclaims 'A Full Gale of Refreshment'. So it is. The color is a glowing amber with a big fluffy buff head. Flavor is rich and deep with a hint of sweetness. It is a hop-lovers delight and really would be classed as a PALE ALE by some folks. It is authentic enough for us to keep it with a INDIA PALE ALE or IPA subgroup. There is really nothing wrong with it and the $7.99 price was appealing as well. Reviewers noted 'positively an overwhelming and welcome burst of hops with limited bitterness...all the refinement of the very best IPAs' and 'full...holding nothing back...completely irresistible'. 

Shepherd Neame India Pale Ale e rai 2.5 673 Faversham, Kent This ancient company is nearly 300 years old (1698) and makes some popular ales and a porter for export. The 16.9 ounce Scotch-shaped bottles are quite distinct. This IPA is dark golden (very pale amber) with a large white head. Alcohol content is just 4.5% (volume) compared to 5.2% for their Porter. The flavor is interesting and herbal as one expects from such a well-hopped style. Like the Kentish Ale we again feel it is not as rich and deep as some of the competition from either side of the Atlantic. One reviewers comment that this one is 'most surely IPA Light and God knows we don't need such a critter' sums up our thoughts. The purpose of IPA was strength of hops to endure a long journey in hot weather. This fails both the tradition and modern appeal test.

Sierra Nevada Anniversary Ale (2008)
RATING:  5.0
Chico, CA USA
The somber forest green and grey-mint bottle is pretty enough and helps the usual grocery store SN devotee zero in on this treasure before it's up and all gone. Dive through the pimply and long-browsing masses before the cooler, dive, dive...come up with gold. Part the crowd of beer patrons and faux conniseurs and say "yes, I can afford anything for a sixpack" - out of my way you Bud-swilling idiots and couples who think Michelob with Orange and Grapefruit is still real beer. (If you need to buy citrus beer-coolers with your partner to get laid, ditch the bitch, and find one who likes real beer. Yes, they are out there and they're often pretty. And probably smart). We paid $8.99 in August 2008 and have no regrets. Can we send them a couple of bucks for it should cost $11-13 by import standards? How is this creation different from their world leading Pale Ale. First of all, it's here in the IPA section. It is hop turbocharged to the Nth degree and a general lack of malt for balance. It is all about hops but bitterness is managed in various ways these kinds of brewers do very well. The hops are Cascade in variety and this ale is to a waterfall of hoppy beer what Niagara Falls is to H20. It's mass quantities, endless, non-stop, no mercy, no let up, delight in excess, so blessedly impossible to stop, and misty heaven for even form and face. If you like your IPA's sweetish and more "accessible" (ie. girly hop soda), look elsewhere. If you want a special treat from a master brewer and a collectible bottle...buy a cardboard box or three. 

Sierra Nevada Torpedo IPA
RATING: 5.0
Chico, California
The approach was an American version of the old Brit style, flavors of pine, herbs, citrus, and American hop varieties making the difference. Color is bright golden-amber, light to medium in tint, the head huge and dark cream, some lace, and a nose full of SN Pale Ale. It is not quite as potent as their 2008 Anniversary Ale proved to be, a few notches down but not a bad compromise either. There is a faint amount of sweetness in the mid to finish notes, something SN often resists and used to perhaps differentiate this label from the more dry ones. It's very well balanced. It's perfect but in another way of achieving perfection than some of their other recipes - this is the safe, red Ferrari with autostick and not the purple Lamborghini; extreme enough but maybe a bit more accessible - and still just as fun.

Smuttynose Finestkind IPA
RATING: 4.0
Portsmouth, New Hampshire
As one's eyes run across the wide, cold shelves of a good beer store this one catches your attention. There are two old, farmer-looking dudes sitting in the lawn chairs in front of a small, rather dirty, once white and red trailer. If they're the brewers, I sure hope they washed their hands twelves times before making the tested contents here. Actually the "Our Staff'" dudes on their website page are more frightening than the smutty old farmers on the label although several of the gals and their Canine-American spokesmodel are rather pretty.

Smuttynose founded in 1994 is "the Granite State's leading craft brewery"; which I suppose is like being the best maker of alligator chile on my cul-de-sac. They're a bit different in that they're offering just 75 "subscriptions" which entitles you to full cases of their nine 2009 editions for $495. That includes something called the Gravitation Belgian Quad. Guess we have a Belgian strength arms race going on folks. Their "full time beer" line includes the Finestkind IPA here which pours rich gold, long in carbonation, and near white in the good head. I found the flavor rather low to moderate in hoppiness for the style, more of a hoppy golden or pale ale to me. Still it's decent and pleasant. Their Big Beer variant on this is called Big A IPA and I wonder if they've held back too much on this regular "full time" product to make the other shine? The NY Times named their Big A IPA their top IPA but this product falls short of most things in the section. It is best very cold and nearly worthless when warmed up by the room.

Star India Pale Ale (IPA)
RATING: 5.0 683
Portland, Oregon
We did note before that Star's Elfin Ale had the same British ale flavors found in a strong Brown Ale and some IPA's. This contrast would be fun. This one has a golder color and malt choices are less crystal-based. Hops are similar but here we have Columbus and no Perle. Color is deep gold (very pale amber) and the head is big and ivory-tinted. Like the Elfin there is one dynamic hop boost and all that herbal power such ingrediants provide. The Elfin just has a big malt dose added to it and the color is hence darker. The label accurately men- tions the 'citrus highlights' here and that is clear. Imagine a very good first rate lemon-herbal tea and you come close. If we had a class for this it would be GOLDEN CITRUS INDIA PALE ALE. Most IPA's are darker amber.

Stone Cali-Belgigue IPA
RATING: 5.0
North County, San Diego, California
Similar to their Gargoyle IPA offering, the ABV here is also 6.9%. It differs mainly in some California style hops and the use of a Belgian yeast strain. It certainly has a Belgian ale twang to it. The marriage of these two ingredients is a winner and it melds to perfection in this formula and production. I've always loved an IPA that was more about hops than harsh pharmaceutical flavors for it's own sake. The special yeast adds much fruitiness to the blend and the hops are toned to the point that they complement the fruit and not overwhelm or work against it. It is absolutely one of the finest American-made IPA's and since everyone nowadays has an IPA, the accomplishment is all the more impressive. Cali-Belgique is an inspired, memorable, and lively brew and the bottle is pure, refined art.

Stone Gargoyle India Pale Ale
RATING: 4.5
North County, San Diego, California
this 6.9% ABV fluid is mid-dark gold with with very, very long beige head. This is "easy medicine" in the IPA department, a pleasant and good introduction to style in a lower malt form. I like it much but their more potent Ruination is more to my taste. Good painted label with beast from hades and a collector's dream as are most of their bottles. Get one, get six, get happy, and take your medicine!

Stone Sublimely Self-righteous Ale
RATING: 4.5
Escondido, California
Stone is getting a good rep for making some very righteous ales and this one is also self-righteous (justifiably so) and sublime. It is nearly as dark as porter, barely translucent in reddish-brown and quite near a black ale. It first came about in January 2009 and I tried to 2010 22 oz. version. The head lasts forever. Simcoe and Amarillo hops are used for flavor in both an early and dry-hopping process. Chinook is added for more bitterness and one would consider this a classic IPA if not seeing the color of it first - semi-imperial at least. The 8.7% ABV is lofty enough but I hardly noticed it. I found is scrumptuous, sufficiently bitter but in excess to prove some of point like "we have hops to burn". I could drink it for a session or so but not all day or for a whole game. Good sampling beer and very competent.

Sweetwater IPA (India Pale Ale)
RATING: 4.5
Atlanta, Georgia
From their Tacklebox of 4 varieties (420, Sch'wheat, IPA, and Extra Pale Ale), this IPA was clearly the best and the only one I'd seek out again. It was flavorful, fully-dosed, and rewarding in a way the others were not. No, it is no Sierra Nevada or Rogue hoppy ale but the price is very on some of these Sweetwater products, about $1.30 a bottle. It is unfiltered and their secondary dry-hopping is not missed.

Terrapin Rye Squared Imperial Pale Ale
RATING: 5.0
Athens, Georgia/Frederick, Maryland
Those of us who live in the ACC (Atlantic Coast Conference) land know that a terrapin (a goofy green turtle) is the mascot of the University of Maryland. Somehow this brew is made deep in the city of University of Georgia in heart of the SEC (South Eastern Conference). I suppose the love of beer crosses many lines. The mad turtle scientist with Einsteinian hair on the label seems to be concocting a beverage that has 8.5% ABV (wowee and let the fun begin), rye in double abundance, and IPA hopping to the usual or greater excess. It's all relative but I do know that one solution to making great amber solutions is: Great Beer = (Rye + Ethanol + Malt + Hops) x 2. More rye, more ethanol, and more hops - what's not to love in theory. The name Imperial Pale Ale implies extra for very strong hops. Spike and John have made a product which fills a glass in strong amber elegance, a finely bubbled light tan head, and the aroma of half the hops that exist on earth. The result is very smooth, choice but different notes (Mr. Secale cereale I presume), an impressive overall constitution, and a dry hop finish that is very explemplary and classically well done. American microbreweries are making some of the top IPA's on the planet and this strong yet agreeable variation is as good as anything served in any city anywhere. This is worthy of enjoying over and over and I trust you will.

Terrapin Side Project Volume 10: Kapt'n Krunkles Black India Pale Ale
RATING: 4.5
Athens, Georgia/Frederick, Maryland
By legend, Captain Krunkles was the most fearsome of the pirate shipmasters. This brew is similarly ruthless, forcing one to walk the plank of extreme hops and malt in one very dark liquid. It's porter opaque, the head finely-foamed and strong tan. Hops fill the nose while malt fills the eyes with lust for bounty. It is fine IPA, coming in early notes with a strong, herbal hop lobby of cannonballs following by a flurry of malt arrows. I'd always wondered why an IPA couldn't be made darker and this side project is my satisfacting answer to that enquiry. It can be done very well and so should be often again! Be prepared for $11 per 650ml but such potent, high class offerings are frequently worth a chest full of shekels. I love this idea and most of the execution but there is a shade or two lack of depth that might have been added. There's a big hoppy sail and a long malty one, nothing small and subtle and specialized for fine control and shifty moves. Very fine experience and an ideal label for your local beer tasters.

Tolly Cobbold India Pale Ale (IPA)
RATING: 4.0
Ipswich, Suffolk, England
The lovely artistic label features hometown Cardinal Wolsey outside the grand Wolsey's gate in Ipswich. The Cardinal has a sort of dull, contented grin like he's put down a few of these fine golden IPA's already. It is an atypical medium-light golden color (most IPAs malted to being amber) with a near white head of good substance. That tart and tangy hop flavor of the style is there is good abundance and a faint hops aroma will tempt you to drink again. While full enough to please most people it did get a few 'semi-light' comments from reviewers who like IPA's strong enough to clear their sinus cavities. Ratings on this varied from 3.0 to 5.0 so it proved somewhat on the controversial side. It will likely please those who dislike medicinal IPAs.

Tomcat Bengal India Pale Ale (IPA) u rai 5.0 742 Raleigh NC Tomcat Brewing joins Greenshields and Old Raleigh as the new bottled micro- brew from our home city of Raleigh NC. They claim this pale amber IPA is the best made anywhere and that it's 'brewed to write 'awesome' all over your taste buds. And so it does. The head is off-white and of average duration. It is richly hopped but with more ale fruitiness than expected - tart cherries perhaps. Most of us felt it was by far the best of their three current products and the only one to be complex enough. Reviewers remarked on its 'authentic and worldclass quality...no faults' and 'well worth trying again but the finish proved a bit unever at some temperatures'. If you like your ales with fruit-filled nature AND generous hops this one will charm you.
Wachusett IPA rai 

Weyerbacher Hops Infusion IPA
RATING: 4.5
Easton, PA
This good stuff pours a glowing pumpkin-amber with a huge, persistant head that is the dream of brewery photographers everywhere. Hops grips the nasal passage before it soothes the throat like a swiss herbal cough drop - and I mean that in the most complimentary, Ricola way. The big giant hops blossom on the label signals what we get by buying the bottle. And I will buy a few more from time to time more when they can be found. I found the finish a tad to bitter and ragged than necessary but when a craving for the genus Humulus this is a nice choice, though not always the best one if everything was available at one's local shops.

Wild Goose India Pale Ale
RATING: 4.5
Maryland's Wild Goose Brewary makes this ice tea-colored IPA (India Pale Ale) with what they call 'long, aromatic hops finish'. It was more pleasant than their Amber and a equal thrill as their Sam Middleton's Pale Ale. By contrast with Grant's IPA (and few beers measure up to Grant's genius), it is a small mark below. But at $6.69 (vs. $11.00 for Grant) it is superb and practical daily choice. Still great at room temperature. Hop lover's delight.


 

ALE - PALE


Arcadia Angler's Ale
RATING: 4.0
Michigan, USA
This pale amber is a medium strength pale ale with equal attention to hops and malt elements. Hopping favors the floral type. It is pleasant but not exciting.

Arrowhead Red Feather Pale Ale
RATING: 5.0
Chambersburg, Pennsylvania
This pale ale overflows with hops aroma and flavor. Color is medium golden with a large cream-colored head of the highest quality. It is quite a 'hop tea' sort of intensity but it also malty enough for a superb balance. It is very nicely balanced and is never bitter. We had a few reviewers actually prefer it to Sierra Nevada's legendy Pale Ale which has served us for years as the standard of our American pale ale. While it has some vaguely sweet notes it is a very refined balance of bitterness and sugar. With scores of decent pale ales sold nationwide this is one of the very few it makes sense to keep stocked. It is easily one of the Top 10 among East Coast pale ales and so we recommend it for your our taste trials.

Bass Pale Ale
RATING: 4.0
Burton-on-Trent England
Since 1777 this Burton-on-Trent beermaker has been making one of the best British ales. The label confirms Her Majesty's approval but we can only give it a 4 out of 5 bottles. While the lingering taste is substantial and never bitter there is some lack of satisfaction. The flavor is authentic British ale but it is not full enough for many enthusiasts. Just for the record these folks at Bass once one owned Holiday Inn and Intercontinental hotels so they must have made a buck or two along the way.

Bear Republic XP Exceptional Pale Ale
RATING: 4.0
Heraldsville, California
Using the familiar golden-brown bear of California statehood, this company in the Sonoma group of breweries has named the XP for it being X-ceptional Pale. It pours bright amberish-gold, smashing in any glass, the head golden-cream and lasting. Centennial and Cascade hops combine with both American and English malts. Nose is sweet hops and it comes out with sweetness tempered by the bitter hops; overall a moderate, semi-sweet,  5.5% ABV presentation of an American Pale Ale (APA). It makes a nice cold summer drinking beer for the hops will not overpower and the sweetness gives one the same comfort as a yankee (non-southern) ice tea or lemonade. Think of it perhaps a hopade. I don't mean to diminish it as a soda-like brew but it reaches one at that basic, lower intensity, everyday level. Perfectionates (which I consulted) missed a malty balance, a greater diversity of hop styles, and lamented the sugaring which was anything from 1-3 notches too high. These being mostly Sierra Nevada APA fans can be dismissed or honored as you like now that you know their profile! One gentleman (or not) called it "a girl's pale ale...but better crafted than Saranac".

Berger Indégo Pale Ale 
RATING: 4.5
Ft. Collins, Colorado
Using special German yeast H.C. Berger makes this moderately strong pale ale. The color is very bright copper amber with a lasting cream head. It is one of the those brews that simply glows in any glass. Overall it is semi-sweet, nicely hopped, and quite drinkable without ever being thin. Refined, never bitter hops is much more predominant than the malt. There is a hint of sweet licorice in the finish. Reviewers remarked on it's "highly agreeable flavor...a good enough potency without being harsh" and "well made, nicely balanced. I'd recommend it among the top 30 out of hundreds of American pales". In fairness a couple of tasters gave it a perfect 5.0 so you might find it perfectly suited to your tastes too. We paid $7.69 per six (3/00) so it is medium-high on the domestic price scale. Tried first in March 2000 and not seen here since.

Big Rock Pale Ale
RATING: 5.0
Calgary Alberta Canada
This $8.00 product of Calgary comes boxed like their superb XO Lager. The color is a medium bright gold with a semi-persistant head and little carbonation - unlike Buzzard's Breath and Warthog. Like those other Big Rock ales it has a candy-like sweetness in the finish but a greater flavor. It is somewhat different from McNally's but has a similar bitter-candy appeal. It is easily a Top 5 Canadian Ale. Beautiful, simple, and artistic label. This is a yummy and refined and fun. Some will want their Canadian Pale Ales more dry and bitter. I do not.

Blue Star Pale Ale
RATING: 4.0
Texas
This rich amber-red ale is moderate in hops and malt added together with ale fruitiness. It has a strong aroma that is sure to impress. Somehow it's not entirely a cohesive package of flavors and the reviews seen here were quite variable.

Boulder Igloo Ale
RATING: 5.0
Boulder, Colorado
Rockies Brewing Co. was formed in 1979 but then under the name Boulder Brewing. Color here is glowing red amber with a lasting microfoam head of ivory color. The flavor is abundant with malt and hops in nice balance and a finish that is semi-sweet. It has enough bitter hop nature to be classed with PALE ALES but it could pass for a HOPPY AMBER ALE as well. The choice of the right amount of sweetness shows their superb skill. The finish is truly delightful and it is a joy to linger over each flavor element. Reviewers praised the 'very sophis- ticated blend of everything...nothing to fault' and 'I'd take this over Sierra Nevada Pale Ale...it's that perfect'. Very highly recommended selection.

Boulder Pale Ale
RATING: 4.5
Boulder, Colorado
This pale ale is a good deal fruity and sweet than the style normal implies for a western US brewer. It has a nice citrus appeal with a tremendous depth of character. It is not highly hopped and so not all reviewers gave it as high marks as others. Yet if this expression of ale (and it's quite a valid one) suits you it will surely get a perfect score.

Burning River Pale Ale (Great Lakes Brewing Co.)
RATING: 4.5
Ohio
This golden amber brew is mid strength favoring strong floral hops and a slightly bitter finish. A bit of carmel malt is added for good measure. It is too strong and spicy for some - others rated it a perfect 5.0

Clipper City Loose Cannon Hop3 Ale
RATING: 5.0
Baltimore, Maryland
This Hop (cubed) Ale is 7.25% ABV to start - not our average pale ale or IPA for sure. THREE POUNDS PER BARREL is the recipe and that shows through in a semi-sweet ale fruity pale style than a potent IPA. I have made many 2-3 brand blends of strong pales and IPAs and can now tell the difference when getting stuff like this. Marketing gimmicks be damned. The label goes on to talk about Davey Jones locker and protecting beer flavor...calling this an American IPA. Now I am confused. Actually, no. It is not a pure herbal IPA as they should be drier and very medicinally so; American or otherwise. (Indeed, if we were judge anything terms "American IPA" by the standard of "American Golden Lager" and "American cheese", this stuff would need to suck, be weak, and suck some more!). This has too much yeasty fruit and sweetness to be a true IPA. I might call it a hybrid but it clearly favors the strong pale side of the taxonomy. Regardless, this rich golden-amber fluid is lasting carbonation, a mid-sized pale head, and an aroma so fruity it would made Juicy Fruit feel like a phony. That fruity nose confirms my placement of it as a strong pale ale and away from that stuff once destined for New Delhi or Davey Jones old home. The extra alcohol smack is not noticed and is something one of you "3 beers max a day" sorts will enjoy; thinking you're getting one over on the wife by drinking three stronger things all the time. Would I buy it again? Highly affirmative. There's not a flaw to found here except in their IPA argument.

Corsendonk Monk's Pale Ale
RATING: 4.5
Belgium
This import from Belgium comes in regular sized bottles or large 750ml ones with a Champagne-style cork and wire. It is imported into the US by Phoenix Imports of Ellicott City MD. It is not a classic Belgian ale and belongs here. 

Devil Mountain Tasmanian Pale Ale
RATING: 4.0
Cincinnati, Ohio
Using amber malts and hops from Tasmania (note the Tasmanian-Devil connection here) they have produced a light yellow ale with a large, persistant head of very fine foam. It is moderately hopped, semi-sweet, and never bitter like a great male microbrewed AMERICAN PALE ALES. This is a very palatable, mass market sort of pale ale. And while it shows good quality it is not worldbeating by any standard. What is lacks in intense depth it could have overcome with a sophisticated blend of malts perhaps. In its middle premium price range (pos- sibly lower premium in grocery stores) it does stand up well to many labels with a likely exception of some Saranac ales.

Dogwood Pale Ale
RATING: 4.5
Atlanta, Georgia
This Atlanta product has received widespread appeal in the Southeast and noted for its mid-strength hopping with an even balance to malt. It favors the fruity ale side over the bitter or malted. Color is bright golden amber with long-lasting carbonation. We remember sipping these without end in the plush, tropical lobby of Atlanta's Ravinia Crowne Plaza and being very impressed. (If you haven't been there they have love birds in cages signing int he lobby, a waterfall, really huge trees, an outdoor Japanese Garden, and concierges who speak French like natives. By the way, those love birds were of the feathery variety. If you want larger species of love birds in cages try to Bangkok Crowne Plaza. This stuff looks terrific in good glassware even though it lacks a trace of the complexity of other pales.

Flying Dog Double Dog Double Pale Ale
RATING: 5.0
Frederick, Maryland
The 11.5% ABV on the 12 oz. bottle got my attention. Are they frickin' serious? An American microbrew in a regular brown bottle that strong?!?! That will happen when...umm...dogs fly. This Canis Major Series contribution to brewing history is a marvelous example of what we have to look for in the next few years. For those of you of younger birth, a "Double Dog" was the most extreme form of dare two kids could put on another - kinda like swearing on Grannie's grave or your succulents in fact. You could refuse some dares but the "double dog" was serious and impossible to get out of. If you took a double dog dare to kiss Ms. Finster, the mole-laden, greasy haired, toothless, evil lunch lady OR cross the 200 foot high, rickety, timber train tressel 5 minutes before the 210 from Rochester was about to cross, you had better have lost big or done something really bad. Double dogs had to be very well considered by all parties. Fortunately the FD DD will leave you with better memories. Actually it's like winning three double dogs in a row, getting richers and humiliating both your best friends and worst enemies in the process. This bright amber pooch is muscular, barking up a storm, hops on his breath, unleashed, happy, rambuncuous, and running for you with glinting teeth. He nips just a little but in a loving way and you are welcomed well and warmly. Last dog reference: FD DD has all the AKC papers, true to breed down all the lines, and a pedigree to drool for.

These "full-frontal, power-hopped, bitter bombs" are designed to be relentless but yet hit the target all the time. This is carpet-bombing with hops cones but each cone is GPS equipt and hits the target; a calculated explosion of bitter joy, second upon second, concussions unrelenting. Precision with mass delivery is what they do best here. This is the real Shock-and-Awe of the Hoppy Pale Ale Wars c. 2008. We'll be finding lots of former US microbrew Pale Ale Dictators, unshaven with matted hair, crying in their spider holes in no time. The Flying Dog DD has searched them out. The near white head is domed, "rocky" as some say, mixed bubble sizes, lasting well. This is a hop lovers delight, refined with just the right amount of sweetness, notes all around balanced and confirmed. Here we have Shangri-La in a bottle for those of us who demand the bright green, conical strobile that comes from the Great Vine we adore. FD DD is a masterful, truly perfect presentation of the brewing arts and the matchless glory of the Hop Vine. There is no finer example of American Pale Ale to be found.

Flying Fish Extra Pale Ale
RATING: 3.5
Cherry Hill, New Jersey
Their logo takes a bit of mental processing time the first time you see it. It's basically a fish skeleton with a airplane wing and busy propellers grafted onto it. The flavor is mild at first but hops quickly saturate and it earns some character thereafter. Yet it the medley of hops and bitterness is off a tad. 

Full Sail Very Special Pale Ale
RATING: 4.0
Hood River, Oregon
This golden ale is a feast of herbal hop flavors with enough malt in the tank to round it out well. The finish is fairly bitter and that is what most reviewers found to be negative. With some tuning this might prove to be a world beater.

Fuller's London Pride
RATING: 5.0
This 'Traditional English beer' is brighter, clearer amber than their superb ESB and both have long-lived heads. While less sweet and hoppy than ESB the flavor is very satisfying. Your tongue and brain must work a bit harder to find the complex details. Both finish dry and semi-bitter. While it has no flaws it is not distinct like ESB. Being less sweet and potent it is perhaps a better beer than ESB with a big feast. For pure drinking pleasure ESB is our choice. Officially it is a PALE ALE but not our North American (ie. Sierra Nevada and McAuslan) concept. Panalists refered to 'good sweet-bitter balance...the later winning out in the final moments' and 'one of the more noteworthy British ales but not as eccentric as some'. Try blending 5-20% stout in it.

Geary's Pale Ale
RATING: 4.5
Portland, Maine
This microbrewery in the 'other Portland' is one of the oldest micros in this country; and likely the first west of the Rockies. This PALE ALE is bright glow- ing amber with a long-lasting ivory head. It is full of hoppy aroma and the taste is well developed with loads of that vining crop. There is a sweet malt componenent but greatly favors the pale side. Other classics like Sierra Nevada are richer and some think this is about right. It did prove a shade too bitter for a few folks in the early palate so a perfect rating was missed. Our re- viewers noted 'clearly one of America's top pales ales...too pricey for me at $8.00-9.00' and 'not too sweet and not too rich...an ideal hop-ladden treat'. Highly recommended for your comprehensive pale ale summits.

Goose Island Lamar Street Organic Pale Ale
RATING: 4.0
Chicago, Illinois
There are two Lamar Street labels, one brewed by Goose Island and the other by Whole Foods of Texas. Oddly enough, I purchased the Goose form at the Whole Foods Store in Raleigh, North Carolina. First off, this is one of the most poorly designed labels in beer history. The railroad scene is neat but hardly visible even under bright lights. The name of the product is tiny, overshadowed, and lost in the tree line! What were they thinking? Photoshop gone wrong? Color is a smart tangerine-gold with a large head of old ivory coloration. Cereal malt comes to foreground quickly and one is amazed at the seeming lack of bitter hopping OF ANY KIND. Where are the usual pale ale hops? It often rates low in magazines and the web for this reason. I'm sure they knew (duh!) and planned for the response. It is almost liquid Wheaties with a dash of sugar. When the politically sweet "organic" name, verified by some Oregon group, is paired to a non-traditional pale ale, the organic, natury, PC aspect of it will be brought up the gun-holding, Bible-clinging, like me and my beer bitter crowd. Some say the hops are brought into the background in a more British style of golden ale and there's a point there to be considered. Others in my circle praise the satisfaction and high drinkability as reasons to fly in the face of generic, from-a-kit pale ales. I might never buy it again but I would put it before a visiting beer friend or two from the UK - just to get another view.

Great Divide Denver Pale Ale (DPA)
RATING: 4.0
Denver, Colorado
Mason Thomas, Senior Brewer notes this is a unique American ale just like the Denver skyline is a unique expression. We suppose that was made for hometown consumption but in one respect this is right. This pale has a American hops flowery quality one associated with Sam Adams for example. This brew is dark golden (barely amber) with a small near white head. Hopping is flowery and moderate with milder hops. It will not come close to Sierra Nevada for strength but then not every one likes that much fire. One reviewer summed it up for most of us: 'it is very good, full of the right things, nicely balanced, yet somehow it lacks something the great pale ales give you.' It is certainly not worth $8 a six but seen at $6 it's a better value. Revisted in 2010 it went up to $8.99 per six and I noticed they added "English Style" to the label and may have increased the bitterness of the finish. It is nearly IPA strong but DPA/APA drinkable. Despite two gold medals, my rating of 4 bottles remains.

Harpoon Glacier Harvest '08 Wet Hop Beer (100 Barrel Series)
RATING: 5.0
Boston, MA/Windsor, Vermont
Version number 24 in this series is a richly flavored pale ale, very rich amber in color. The head is dark tan and very long-lasting. Wet hopping, a last minute addition of the good stuff is used to boost the flavor - as opposed to dry hopping using the ingredient in dried form earlier on. They claim on their website that these fresh hops are not dried but "picked just hours before being tossed into the brew". Wow! Not many breweries can claim or even manage that. Fresh hops are about 60% moisture and their distinct flavors have yet to degrade. The volatile compounds and rich oils remain. Ray Dobens of the Harpoon staff created this stuff and personally picked the Glacier hops in Seneca, New York and drove them immediately to Boston for inclusion in this product. The result? Not your average grocery store pale ale for sure. You really feel this is "hops tea" in every good sense of that phrase yet it is not overpowering. Malt is clearly in the backseat and rounds it out though in a very reserved manner. Fresh hopping or wet hopping should be done more and we know why it is not done - inconvenience, travel/shipment money, lack of access to fresh Humulus, and the fact most people accept the dry stuff in most any dose given to them. Sad that is. Here's effort that is rewarded in the beverage itself. Highest marks. Let's have more hop teas and with all the variations we can think of!

Highland St. Terese's Pale Ale
RATING: 3.0
Asheville, North Carolina
One is immediately struck by the nun on the label holding out a big stein. If that is not enough to ruffle some feathers the nun actually turns out to be considerably less than drinking age. It is all good fun we suppose unless you don't have a sense of humor to begin with. This American style PALE ALE is bright golden-amber with a substantial creamy head. It has a fruity-hops balance but is remarkably mild and tame for this brewery; one normally distinguished by rugged, full-bodied product. This is not to say there is no room for a smooth, sweetish pale ale - a summer refresher for one thing - but on principle this one disappoints. With so many microbrew failures we only hope Highland is not going too mainstream. 

Humes Jaipur Pale Ale
RATING: 5.0
Glen Ellen, California
This elegantly bottled ale is rich amberish gold with a large, lasting ivory head. It is in short a FRUITY BITTER PALE ALE, being more nectar-like and with more of a bitter finish than some. Though sweetish at first the finish has many rich bitter hop elements so it may be described as well balanced in that respect. Indeed some sips will prove more sweet than others. It is very well crafted. Reviewers noted 'rich abundant fruit, hops, and ale yeast flavors... finish can be a bit ragged...overall very pleasant' and 'nice essense of apricots, cherries, and hops throughout...faint skunky (the good kind) aroma at first...very distinct from Sierra Nevada style of pale ale.'.

King and Barnes Festive Ale
RATING: 5.0
Sussex, England
This reddish-amber ale is among the best the British Isles has ever producted. The full fruit flavors of a rich ale blend with roasted malt flavors for a simply breathtaking result. It is bottle conditioned and that contributes much to its superiority over regular microbrews from these shores. The sophistication and complexity here are simply remarkable. A must try - I hate that phrase - just do it - I that one too. Get some...

Lagunitas 2009 Correction Ale
RATING: 5.0
Petaluma, California
To say the rich, pale ale standard in the state of California is high is like saying there are one or two people in Paris and New York who care about fashion and if pushed might rendor an opinion or two. "We're all Bozos on this bus" and the dog make the label cute as did the sermonette about "Made-off" and Sopranos in fine print. The label also have references to Mardi Gras and a familiar quote from Animal House, the movie. Were any of the folks there sober when this label was approved? I sure hope not. Just be sure one guy is sober when the stuff is measured. So does the "This is NOT a double IPA...It's just a good American ale". Is this oddly measured 6.33% ABV brew giving us a hint we might have something loaded with hops here. IPA? No. I like to go with the brain's first instincts sometimes and these are "fruit and pine"; piney, resinous rich hops with elements of fruit esters to be specific. That suits my ale-is-my-pal sensibilities to a big freakin' T. I sipped the entire bottle (and yes it was over two distinct periods to avoid blurred judgement) and found it utterly perfect from first nose to last cleansing of the back tongue. This is a very amazing stuff, shocking at $5 for a big bottle. It makes the trendy Fat Tire look like a 50's Rambler stranded flat on the highway with three others goin' soft. If you're into that "Fruit and Pine" thing which Sierra Nevada does so well, this one will hold a candle to it and then some. I'm simple delighted to find another rare label that can be called Humulus-euphorbia, a fine value, and inspiration in the single breath. This is rapture for those who like their hops thick but not overpowering; nicely blessed with the passionate esters of nature. There is good sorcery in this bottle. I now consider myself Corrected by Ale. 

Latrobe American Pale Ale
RATING: 4.0
Latrobe, Pennsylvania
This budget craft brew ($5.99) is deep golden with a lasting ivory head. Aroma is light and sweet. Flavor is not your ordinary assault of hops and malt; most favoring the hops team. Cascade hops are used but in moderate strength. The malt balance is rather sweet and is joined with a very fruity ale base. It is surprisingly refreshing and well made for this price range though not one of us thought it was really a world-beater. It is the kind of brew you'd buy when you have to get beer and snacks out of a mangled $10 bill in your wallet. Some of us do beer cap displays and the green cap here stands out very well. Reviewers noted 'sure to give Saranac Pale Ale a run for this niche' and 'respectable sweet fruity ale with just enough hops to keep me engaged'.

Little Kings Bruin Pale Ale
RATING: 4.0
Cincinnati, Ohio
Little Kings is best known for a more upscale Cream Ale and this new Pale Ale from Schoenling of Cincinnati is also a classy product. The 22oz bottles sell here for just $1.59 and this amber ale is absolutely overflowing with hops and malt quality. It is not up to the standard bearer of Sierra Nevada but is thoroughly enjoyable at every sip. It is more malt-saturated than many pale ales (particularly in the finish) but a tangy hops flavor is present at the first palate. The label is simply stunning with silvery blue mountains and grizzly bears and gold-shadowed letters. The top of the label is cut to fit the contour of the peaks. MOST ARTISTIC LABEL SPRING 1995 beyond any and all doubt. America needs this kind of bargain pale ale. 

Lonerider Peacemaker Pale Ale
RATING: 4.5
Raleigh, North Carolina
This offering from the Triangle area brewer is....It pours rich golden-amber, the head micro-bubbly and lasting. The nose is sweet-toasty malt. It is no formulaic, general American Pale Ale by any sense and I was cheered to see that in my latest hometown brewery; at least three former ones having bit the humid dust. "Several hop varieties" are used to make a "unique and bountiful hop aroma" - I'm shocked they are accurate here. A blend of American and European malts is used for well-rounded, character. True again! Marketing based on truth and reality? Very unique concept and very rare these days. The warm, earthy malts remind me of some German lagers and yet the fruit of an ale comes through as do semi-floral hops, toned down to favor malt. It needs to be very cold as it's unique flavors fad in some conditions. I liked their ingredients and their result. Very nice effort for a newish firm.

Lost Coast Pale Ale
RATING: 4.0
This pale ale is deep golden in color and carries a persistant head. The carbonation is strong and vastly greater than their Amber Ale. It starts rather thin but finishes with rich American-style hop flavor to make it very pleasant. It is not so full as the Sierra Nevada Pale Ale but if SN is too strong for you this may be a perfect match. The finish has some fruity elements to balance the hops but we'd prefer a touch more depth.

Magic Hat Lucky Kat
RATING: 4.5
Burlington, Vermont
The label bursts into your face as a grinning Cheshire feline in bright magenta with teeth to spell out Lucky Kat. Here's the website speel: "Lucky Kat purrs as he pours with a grin on his mangy face and a grin in his searching eye.  He sits on the fence he calls home, dividing up from down.  Is he an imperial beast or a pale soul from the east?  Only he knows and we know only this: if you reach out to pet him he'll bite back with a big, hoppy kiss". Their malt picks are Pale, Munich, and Crystal while the hopping is Amarillo and Crystal. The BAV is 5.8% or just a smidge above common micros. It pours out a lovely, bright amber, the cream head very enduring, and nose faintly of the sacred vine. The hopping is very sophisticated, not bitter but not overly sweet either, a very refined middle choice,  a very happy and convenient presentation in the American Fruity Pale Ale style. It is a highable enjoyable, likable beverage, more fruity and less bitter than many in our APA or Near-IPA formulas of a two hundred different names in the US market. The bitterness in the finish is there but it does not present itself as a monolithic dry hops approach of the usual and standard characters in this category. It's a pretty kitty with more purr than claw.


Mendocino Blue Heron Pale Ale
RATING: 3.0 (Hopland CA 1996)/ 4.5 (Saratoga Springs, NY 2008)
From my 1996 review: Anything from a town called Hopland (CA) would almost have to have this much hops character. Created in 1985 this PALE ALE is surprisingly light yellow for something of that name. The head is very deep, foamy, and ivory in shade. Flavor is very tart and full of citrusy hops bitterness. It is sure to be controversial in the same way a Berliner Weiss beer will be. Our reviewers made comments ranging from 'horrible...hard to drink' to 'unique and sophisticated...sharp refreshment of the best quality'. As a majority most of us felt it would have been better with some kind of fruit theme (ie. real apricot or real raspberry). Berliner Weiss does recommend fruit syrups and this would be better with such mixing. Straight it will win few fans. I tried it again in February 2009, this time from their NY brewery and found it vastly morphed, executed as finely as it was lacking before. It might as well be a good copy of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale in it's current trim; and perhaps a buck or two cheaper. It is a hops first kind of pale and very refreshing at all times. The refinement over this decade is well worth the effort. Beers can be revived and made whole.

Miami Hurricane Reef Pale Ale


Michelob Pale Ale
RATING: 3.0
St. Louis, MO

Following up on the Amber Bock, Michelob has launched a number of beers that some have described as 'microbrewoid'. They are surely an improvement overly watery lagers of the past and might by some opinions here be considered a compromise of style, price, and quality. For $5.99 or so this Pale Ale gives a real Saaz hop flavor. Color is medium gold with a big near white head and a faint hops aroma. Saaz, Hallertau, and Tettnang hops were not mearly waved about this brew though it is might correctly be described as moderately flavored. It is SEMI-LIGHT PALE ALE to some of us and it was noted that in this price range the Saranac products (for one example) are perhaps more pleasing. Still it does represent new sophistication and we gladly welcome it.


Morland Old Speckled Hen Ale
RATING: 3.5
Abingdon, Oxfordshire
Since 1711 the Morland PLC folks have been making 'strong fine ale' with their own unique yeast. This current brew dates from 1896. Color is bright copper amber with a white, finely-bubbled head of long persistence. Described by Mor- land as a PALE ALE it has moderate malt by American standards. The hopping is more full and it finishes nicely dry. This is no malty-carmel-toffee-molasses ale of STRONG REAL ALE appeal of late. Most reviewers felt it was far from strong enough for the $10.50 price and 'strong fine ale' letters on the label. While it has enough depth to set it apart from a $5.99 American mass-brew amber it is not THAT much better. There are dozens of better UK ales - Newcastle, Mon- rell's Oxford Castle, and Adnam's Nut Brown to name just three. Collect bottles?

Naked Aspen Pale Ale
RATING: 3.5
Cold Spring, Minnesota
This MN beer has a cheerful amberish golden color with a small head but loads of carbonation. By now we've had enough experience with PALE ALES to spot winners right quick. Sierra Nevada and St. Ambrose (McAuslan) are our winner standards of 5 bottle bliss. While this one has nice hops (and a little malt flavor) it is not as flavorful as it should be. The main palate is slightly weak and so can be the finish. We say can be. After the first full bottle one's mouth retains enough hop aftertaste so things get better in the finish. Thus one's first few sips are more accurate although the total experience can improve. Reviewers said 'average pale ale quality...does not really impress me' and 'for the ale drinker who longs for mellow hopping'.

New Holland Existential Ale
RATING: 5.0
Holland, Michigan
This stunning beverage is rich, dark amber in color with a medium-sized head. This high gravity (25.5 Plato) entry has a whopping 10.5% ABV but one's more likely to drunk from all hops! Two hundred pounds of malted barley per barrel testifies to it's formulaic quality. There are also 37 ounces of American-grown hops per barrel. The result is very balanced, yet a classic rich pale, lacking in nothing, and excelling in everything. I'd never think the Sierra Nevada Pale would have a major rival for America's best but here we have one perhaps a hair or two even more enjoyable. By one report it's a limited production c. April 2008 but they'd be insane not to a VERY CLOSE recipe cousin every day of the year. The giant green, stylized hop on the bottle will thrill bottle collectors who like the inked on (tampo) style of brewing art.

North Coast Acme California Pale Ale
RATING: 4.0
Fort Bragg, California
This product from North Coast golden with amber tints under lower light. The head is off white and very persistant. Flavor is on the fruity side of the AMERICAN PALE ALE spectrum. There are surely many more brews with a stronger malt and hop dose from western microbreweries. Reviewers thought it was very pleasant but for the price very close to $9.00 it did not have the complex and sophisticated depth we have come to require. It was a tad to simple and weak in the finish for some of us. Others felt it was a smoother drinking com- promise of some merit. No one was very thrilled we must honestly report. There is just something not 'devoted enough' about whether it be for fruit or hops taste. Perhaps the very ordinary 'Acme' name is more fitting than planned.

Oskar Blues Dale's Pale Ale
RATING: 4.5
Newport, Oregon/Longmont, Colorado
This is unquestionably the best pale ale in the can, at least among those available in the mass market from east to west in the US. I normally don't review canned beers but having being thrilled to find their potent 8% Old Chub in my local Harris Teeter one night, I just had to trust and try this one. The cashier at the small store where I bought this checked the three price labels several times and yes...they all said $9.99 - "it's a very special beer" I remarked, cutting the long fumbling silence, to which the reply was "must be".  This label is just 6.5% and that is decent enough for the hops and background malts lead me to brewery nirvana without out any extra bite being necessary. I am not alone in giving it high marks for the NY Times called it their Top US Pale Ale and it also won the coveted World Beer Championship Gold Medal in 2010. I'd pass up most other pale ales in my grocery store (save the eternally good Sierra Nevada) and head for this one. Really great stuff and very portable.

Pacific Hop Exchange Gaslight Pale Ale
RATING: 4.5
Emeryville, California
A lovely 19th century style label greets us first and the $3.39 price (for a generous 1 pint 6 oz.) also impressed. Color is rich golden amber with a mid- sized ivory head. It is fully hopped but less harsh than so many popular AMERICAN PALE ALES. A semi-sweet, carmel flavor seems to take out SOME of the bitterness you either love or hate about the style. It is certainly a good value and very refreshing in most opinions. Reviewers note 'too much like hops soda for me' and 'easy drinking, totally enjoyable...nothing at all to complain about (and I rarely say that)'.

Pennington Classic English Pale Ale
RATING: 3.5
Kernersville, North Carolina
Woodhouse Brewing adds their name to the growing rank of excellent Southeastern microbreweries that distinquish themselves with ale. Label collectors take note of the finely printed copper cabin that is a nice emblem. Color is light amber (unusually pale for a PALE) with a big head of cream color; faint hops in the aroma. Flavor is moderate with it improving with a nippy flood of hops on the tonque. However about 60% of our reviewers (almost all ale lovers) felt it was too mild and needed a turbo charge with more hops. Malting was about right for most. As is 'it runs way back in the pack' among pale ales according to one reviewer. One said 'ideal hops-malt balance...not harsh like so many today'. If you like your PALES mild this is nice. Otherwise skip it.

Perry's Majestic Ploughman's Pale Ale
RATING: 4.5
Brooklyn, New York
Judging from the organic message and the skillful rendering of a plowman on the label you'd expect this to be from Iowa or even North Dakota. No its just good old Brooklyn (where plowing has other meanings) under license from Hoboken Brewing Co. of New Jersey. It is golden amber with a short-lived near white head. It is rich and hoppy and lacks the sweetness of the Majestic we tried before and concluded must be a SWEET GOLDEN LAGER. This has enough sweet- ness to offset much of the full, bitter hops and the balance seems about perfect. It is quite well made but frankly there are probably 50 decent microbrewed AMERICAN PALE ALES of similar worth. It is great but will not really stand out unless organic ingredients are very important to you.

Pete's Wicked Pale Ale
RATING: 4.5
St. Paul, Minnesota
This bright and pale amber brew has a small but lasting head. It is 'intensely hopped' with fruity ale bass unlike their famous regular Wicked Ale. There is enough hops for most folks but if you're a big Sierra Nevada Pale Ale fan you'll find Pete a big less strong. The fruit ale yeast flavor is there but it has to be sensed carefully. Hops is the main theme. The color is one of those radiant glowing shades of amber that looks terrific in any class. Review- ers here noted 'good balance of hops bitterness and ale sweetness...so complete it is hard to find a single flaw' and 'quality ale certain to be popular at this price ($5.99) and wide distribution...I prefer more distinct products by Rogue'. Most felt it was equal or better than the 'regular ale'.

Pike Place Pale Ale
RATING: 4.0
White River Junction, Vermont
From White River Junction Vermont this microbrewery (and one in Seattle) comes a rich medium amber ale with full carbonation. Hops and much malt are apparent and enduring on the palate. It lacks the herbal strength of the more famous Sierra Nevada Pale Ale but works well as a more dry alternative. It has some fruit-flavored elements for a short transition but they are minor to other tastes. Well made but not as exciting as some other amber ales. Pleasant. Bronze Medal in 1993 GABF in Classic English Pale Ale group.

Post Road Pale Ale
RATING: 4.5
Utica, New York
This well-made pale is rather hoppy and possesses that "flowery" flavor similar to the better known Sam Adams product. It is of exceptional quality and recommended for all your taste comparisons.

Riverside Pullman Pale Ale
RATING: 5.0
Riverside, California
This one the Silver Medal in the 1994 Great American Beer Festival for BRITISH ALE ALE - but remember again Miller Lite has received GABF medals too. Color is medium golden-amber with a lasting ivory head of average size. Nice aroma of sweet hops. Flavor is overflowing with ale fruitiness and enough hop spicing to really thrill folks who've tasted hundreds of pale ales this year. Malting is moderate and secondary (or perhaps supporting) to the hops. It is far fruitier and semi-sweet than our American standard of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. We paid $5.99 on sale (a cheerful bargain) but we'd pay as high as $8.49 we've seen. One reviewer remarked on its 'expert delivery of rich flavor elements without being filling or assaulting your tastebuds...perfect balance'.

Rogue (Chatoe Rogue) First Growth OREgasmic Ale
RATING:  4.5
Newport, Oregon
This latest (June 2010) "Grow the Revolution" label from the genius partners at Rogue logs in at 6% ABV with intensely hazy amber presentation below a strictly beige head of strong firmness and long duration. Rogue's Oregon-raised Revolution hops with RISK™ and DARE™ malts make something non-euro and non-traditional in name. The nose is odd, earthy, far from classic APA. First sip is dark, malty vegetable juice, not the bit of sharp hops to be found except in the last screams of the finish and these very enigmatic and reserved. I almost felt I was drinking malty celery juice at one or two early places. Another time I think I spasmed with basil-cantelope juice in my head. (That in the sane, scientific world would suggest spicy hops plus very aromatic fruit esters). Here is something flowing from basic veggie smoothnes and as far from traditional APA as grape Koolaid from a much decorated Cal-Cab - though this favors the quality of the noble valley Cab. As sips develop and notes lay down, there is more hoppy fine layered on grapefruit, melon, the mild veggie themes getting stronger as the tasting grows. There are weak caramels and faint fig in the background, never as real as they could be, and always with hops shouting out the finish and overwhelming them as the sips grow to 10 or more. 

My buds at the tasting party said "nice twist on the pale ale, more flavors to decipher than usual...good in a taste test challenge" and "this thing is all over the map and also off all known maps...Rogue does this three times a year...this is a puzzle...it's too bit crazy to rate it very high.". This micro-oddity is either an eccentric, flawed yet brilliant brew or a world-worthy one. I've settled at 4.5 until I can decide. Enigmas like this either prove to be fun or annoying when the year is done and the last bottle finished. Is this a trend-setting ale, perhaps the pioneering, standard-setting Oregon Pale Ale and thought masterful for the next two centuries? It might be far less if Rogue wanders or flounders and if these trademarked varieties are not widely available to many other breweries. OREgasmic is kinda like a velvet atomic bomb delivering lots of grain, hops, and malt flavors at the speed of light but yet you feel caressed for all the strong wind and noise. Perhaps their -gasmic suffix is the key to the knowledge here. Something that is mind-blowing to one partner is perhaps tepid, confusing, and non-terminal to another in the sweaty pile. For me it's an effective handjob from a pretty but ambiguous new friend who is a bit hard to classify. 

Rowdy's Perfect Pale Ale (Water Street)
RATING: 4.0
Chicago, Illinois/Dubuque, Iowa
This microbrew is light-medium yellow with a deep, persistant near white head. Their Perfect Ale is decidely more amber and this one has the black, white, and grey packaging. Flavor is overflowing with nice fresh American hops (or so we suspect) and some minor malt notes balance it out. For most reviewers it was moderate in strength but a few stoutheads felt it was too lightweight for them. Certainly a few lean flavor passages can creep in on occasion. It has only a hint of sweetness to charm the bitter vine and it finishes rather dry. But with so many good pale ales out there would most our tasters get again at given prices? Probably not. Yet it did have some strong advocates which is how beer reviewing should be.

Royal Oak Pale Ale
RATING: 5.0
Dorchester, England
Eldridge, Pope, and Co. of Dorchester UK made one of the finest pales ales in the world. It is rich without being powerful but strong enough be called a dark or dark amber. The enduring molasses-like taste is clearly British and wonderful. It should be compared to Old Peculier for a similar taste. At about $3 per bottle it is not inexpensive. It is a true treat and one fitting the finest of meals. While not very common it is work of brewing art.

Samuel Adams Longshot American Pale Ale '96
RATING: 4.5
Cincinnati, Ohio
This is a copy of an award-winning brew out of 1680 entries in the World Homebrew Contest. Sponosored by Boston Beer, this APA category was won by James Simpson of Ridgewood NY. Original Gravity is 12.6 and some 31 Hopping Units were measured. Color is medium-light amber and very bright in a glass. The head is ivory, microfoamed, and lasting. The label correctly describes the main flavor elements as hops, fruit, and spice. If you like your pale ale with more of fruitiness of ale yeast this is a nice choice. It was a shade controversial in that some panalists felt it was too herbal or had a resin-like note - some hops do remind one of Christmas trees! The dry bitter finish is cleaner. As a FRUITY PALE ALE it is one of the best in this subclass. Highly praised by most.

Samuel Middleton's Pale Ale
RATING: 5.0
Cambridge, Maryland
This ale traces its roots to 1750 and Sam Middleton's brewery in Annapolis MD. It is now made in Cambridge MD. It is dark gold to pale amber and had a nice head for us. Flavor is initially light but it finishes more sweet and hoppy than expected. It is nothing like Sierra Nevada nor Anchor pale ales and must be judged on its own merits. It is quite aromatic and strikes an excellent balance in full flavor vs. drinkability. A worthwhile experience.

Saranac Pale Ale
RATING: 4.5
Utica, New York
F.X. Matt's Utica operation makes this nice PALE ALE in red amber beauty with a lasting foamy head and nice carbonation. Six malts are used with East Kent Goldings and Cascade hops for a rich hoppy bouquet. Finishes dry. The label makes a good point: 'distinctive yet drinkable'. While not as complex as Sierra Nevada's Pale this one goes down easier and is dry enough to leave the taste buds uncompromised for good dining. We paid a comfortable $6.00 on sale and it never has those microbrew prices in most stores.

Sierra Nevada Estate Brewer's Harvest™ Ale
RATING: 5.0
Chico, California
As one of a few estate-bottled ales that uses hops and barley from their own farm, the SN brand has come to full maturation and sophistication as a brand. The lush produce of the Central Valley in California makes this 6.7% amber APA (American Pale Ale) a better thing than ever before; even compared to their stock label and recent Imperial or double IPA offerings. The hops are strong, not quite IPA strong but marginally close, and yet I think a neighboring farmer with a tank of grapefruit juice may have snuck in some of his best product. This stuff positively exudes grapefruit and other citrus flavors - so much so I'm writing Indian River to thank them for years of good product but that I will be drinking SN Estate for breakfast in the future. The hopping is never bitter but steady, quality, full-measured and undivided focus. Malt supports a tad but one cannot describe it's traits other than as scaffolding for a great hops tower. The freshness of these hops is apparent and so is the skill with which they were utilized at every step. Make no mistake and get it clear - this is one of the finest APA's ever offered and if you like the grapefruit-hops side of things your heaven will be just a little sunnier.

Sierra Nevada Pale Ale
RATING: 5.0
Chico, California
This handmade ale in those famous green packs from Chico CA is a no additive formula using the Kraeusening Process and top-fermenting yeast. It is complex and mysterious like a fine wine with transitional flavors and a very persistant aftertaste. Although called Pale it is really a cloudy amber beer and not as golden as some in this section. That means more malt folks! We think Sierra Nevada and Portland Lager may be the very TOP Americans. It is easily worth $8 per six pack of bottles. We know of no other label that is more satisfying. For all it's fans around the world, the stuff is a bit dense with flavor for some times of the day or season. SNPA is to American ales is beyond being a legend; it's a standard by which all nation's pale ales are and should be judged. It set a new bar for quality, fascinating flavor, and refreshing briskness. It was the first super-hoppy beer I tried when I first got to love good beer. You never forget your first amazing, hoppy ale. 

Sierra Nevada Southern Hemisphere Harvest
RATING: 5.0
Chico, California
Every time I spot a new, fancy-labeled SN product in a large bottle in my local shop, I nearly go into apopletic fits and if I see just bottles I move fast and get possessive real quickly. The Harvest Series uses fresh hops and this one is named for their selection of Pacific Hallertau, Motueka, and Southern Cross - all from New Zealand. The fresh heads are packed quickly and flown to Chico for immediate use at the peak of aroma and flavor. The hops are flown! Like the earlier Estate Harvest label using CA product, this one screams quality from first sniff to last drop. It is amber gorgeous and large of head, a bit too much foam for my taste, however. I was expecting a punch like their strong pale ales or IPA-like products but here is something more ellusive, neither thin or indistinct, but based on the character of the hops themselves. It is "alcoholic hops tea" in the very best sense of that concept. And it is a very clever concept, so obvious that few do it. One might think of it as architecturally deconstrucive of beer itself - hops is key and bring that ingredient to a new level of dominance, clarity, and accessibility! Brilliant batch and delectable. Hops shine, hops rule, hops shine.

SLO Brickhouse Extra Pale Ale
RATING: 4.0
New Ulm MN via SLO, CA
This is indeed EXTRA pale - barely different from pale yellow Pils. The head is big, near white, and lasting. Pleasant light scent of fruit. The aroma is a true indication of things to come. The flavor is mainly of fruity ale yeast with hops and malt being secondary themes well in the balanced background. Review- ers noted the 'sweet appeal of apple together with tart citrus...enough hops to please me but probably not everyone' and 'elegant fruit flavor with some hops bitterness...[I] would prefer a formula less pale and more complex'. As a FRUITY GOLDEN ALE is proved perfect for some of us and too tart for some others. It is certainly not to be compared to richer PALE ALES (Sierra Nevada to name our eternal standard). For what niche it fills there are not many better.

Snake River Pale Ale
RATING: 5.0
Jackson Hole, Wyoming
Jackson Hole WY Miracle of miracles! There is a beer that brags about 'pure mountain water' that doesn't taste like only pure mountain water! color is a cloudy golden amber on the mid to pale side. The head is lasting, deep, white, and made of fine foam. Flavor is your basic rich hops with more sweetness than say Sierra Nevada for example. For those who think the Sierra Nevada and maybe a few others are just too 'over the top' in hop overdosing, this is a nice alternative. It is rich and fully hopped but never excessively so. Reviewers noted 'perfect bal- ance on all flavor notes...truly one of the best pale ales around' and 'I prefer a little more maltiness but for a SWEET HOPS ALE there are few better.' This is highly recommended for any pale ale competition. Last reviewed in Spring 1996.

Spanish Peaks Yellowstone Pale Ale
RATING: 4.0
The Spanish Peaks' 'Black Dog' line has at least 3 formulae - Ale, Yellowstone Pale Ale, and Sweetwater Wheat. All have such similar labels that one can visually 'merge' them and miss them. This one is golden lightly tinted amber with a lasting head. Flavor is richly hopped and more fruity than Sierra Nevada Pale or Adams Stock Ale for example. At first palate it is sweet and almost a hop-filled nectar. Pleasing but not complex enough.

St. Ambroise Pale Ale (Biere Blonde)
RATING: 5.0
Montreal Quebec
McAuslan of Montreal produces this wonderful pale ale ('bierre blonde' to Quebecites) in a light copper amber color. The head is large, rocky, and eternal. It is complex with bitter to herbal hop notes and a finish that is a touch sweet and fruity. The overall balance is very nice and so it should be for a $10.00 sixpack or $3-4 more than Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. The gold- colored box and that price tells one to expect a terrific beer and this time we were simply surprised. It is certainly one of Canada's finest beers in any classification and not easy to find in most US states. Michael Jackson described it as 'hoppy-fruity and tasty all the way through' and as usual he gets it right. Highly-recommended treat. A worldclass pale ale.

St. Stan's Whistle Stop Ale
RATING: 4.5
Modesto, California
This bright amber ale has a full, enduring head and cost us a full $8.99 for the sixpack. Flavor is a balanced blend of ale fruitiness and abundant hops. As with some California ales this is subclassed as a FRUITY AMERICAN PALE ALE. Reviewers remarked 'very drinkable yet holding little back...lacks a certain nature of sophistication in the finish...could become perfect with some work.' Given the highish price (for our area at least) we would hope they do that extra step to improve things a bit.

Sweetwater 420 Extra Pale Ale
RATING: 4.0
Atlanta, Georgia
A lower-priced beer won the Silver at the World Beer Cup in this class but I found it only bearable and not very deep or thrilling. Perhaps I should have compared to something less noble than their IPA, which was flavorful and very pleasant.

Thomas Creek Kind Beers Amber Ale
RATING: 4.5
Greenville, South Carolina
I found this stuff at Total Wines warehouse and looking all minimalist and languid with it's simple earth-toned label with a cute fern peaking from a circular white window. 7.3% ABV. Well at these folks aren't trying to preserve livers! Thomas Creek Brewery does not preach on the bottle, filling every last space with some political, pseudo-scientific hype as I had expected. I misjudged them. And no web link. It was kindbeers.com of course and when you click on their pictures you get an email TO: fill and not much more. They are small and they don't want to preach. Cool. Let's let the beer preach. Color is rich amber and nose very hoppy. The stuff gives must more malt than expects and their balance is very, very solid, a well chosen position in that age old "hops:malt" balance decision. Here were are blessed with malty pale ale that is neither hops soup with ethanol nor a real malt ale that is weak and therefore more amber than brown. They have spicy hops (giving IPA flashes), very good fruit notes, succulent notes all around from many genera, and something must different from the usual microbrew "I got my recipe and ingredients on the internet" approach. If you've ever felt like a hoppy pale and also the comfort and joy of a brown ale, this is a good compromise. I'm not saying it's a hybrid of pale and brown but some people might with further consideration. I like their kind approach and will gladly go here again.

Tolly Cobbold Suffolk Ale
RATING: 5.0
Ipwich, Suffolk, England
This amber colored ale has a lasting ivory and only under weak incandescent lamps did the announced 'rich ruby colour' appear. It's just plain amber in a strong light of any kind. Fruity hops flavor immediately strikes you and it is semi-sweet with no bitterness of note. It is nothing like any AMERICAN PALE ALE but if you 'real ale' tastes run to the sweet-fruit-filled side this will be a perfectly charming find. Label collectors may note the 'Suffolk Punch' horse is particularly well done artwork. Reviewers noted 'rich malty aroma becoming a feast of malt, licorice, apple, and citrus flavors of great dis- tinction' and 'superby fine ale...4.6% alcohol [by volume]...surely a must try for British ale fans...'. Highly recommended by all.

Tommyknocker Pick Axe Pale Ale
RATING: 4.5
Idaho Springs, Colorado
Here is a classic American Fruity Pale Ale (AFPA) which "dances on your tongue and titillates your palatte". I think that phrase is banned in 18 southern states - not sure. Sounds nasty and yet good. Why I picturing myself enjoying a tall class of this with Monica Lewinsky at the bar in the Watergate complex. It pours an appealing amber, a fat, long head in pale tan, and a nose that is more more fruit-estery than I would have dreamed. Where Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and the other classic hopi-centric ales emphasize potency and bitterness, this is on the fruity side with just a bit of sweetness. Many ale officienados think a fruity-sweet pale ale is not real ale, useful, worthy, or even likely of quality. The bitter-dry road is just one of the pale ale avenues and this passage is just as impressive, even if an easier less bumpy surface. I find it very pleasant, neither rapturous nor amazing, just very competent and honorable. After one bottle, the finish gets more nippy and that is from a combination of hops and bitter fruit notes. Here is a very tempting orchard and the hop vine is part of the farm. 

Williamsburg American Pale Ale
RATING 5.0
Williamsburg, Virginia
We guess the folks in Williamsburg have been doing more than powdering their wigs and skinning rabbits after work these days. This superb ale - not to be confused with the equally fine WilliamsVILLE Pale Ale - is a powerful, richly batched product of the highest quality. It is golden amber with a full ivory head of good duration and enough hops to knock you out of your hand-wrought cane chair. Yet it is not excessively spiked and in the dry finish there is a wonderful smoothness. A good dollop of sweet carmel malt flavor is added to round out the flavor. Two-row pale malt, American produced hops, and you guested it - real American pale ale yeast - are used in generous but prudent amounts. And did we forget to mention it is also a hefe-pale ale with those lovely clouds of yeast in every big bottle. The only thing it lacks is one of those stunning southern belles on the label.

Williamsville CABO Pale Ale
RATING 5.0
Fernandina Beach FL/Doswell VA 
When the label says 'spot on' they are not just rehearsing the agency lines here. This is truly one of the finest SWEET MALTY PALE ALES in the microbrew- ing business. Color is brownish-amber (red amber under lower light) and the persistant head is of good size. One might even classify it as a BROWN ALE but it had more hops than most brews of that style. Still malt predominates the style - crystal malt to be exact. The label also describe it as 'less overwhelming' and that is true - but not at the expense of full, quality flavor. Reviewers noted 'malt lovers ecstasy...deep, interesting, but maybe just a tad too sweet' and 'crystal red malt delight...one of the more rewarding East Coast brews I've tried this year...top recommendation'

Young's Ramrod Pale Ale
RATING 4.0
This clear amber beer has a full foamy head and the most mild flavor of those tried in the Young's line. It is flavorful but finishes quite clean. Tasted head to head we thought Young's Winter Ale was much more rewarding as were most other amber PALE ALES. Some transitional bitterness was detected and at times the taste proved simple and short-lived. We feel that Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and Anchor Liberty Ale are easily better ales.


Ale - Red

The distinction between a red ale and an amber one is mostly in the shade of the fluid, this being more near to red and the other to orange and copper tones. Lots of stuff is reddish-amber to me or amberish-red to another person. Flavors can be very similar; some favoring hops but most quite malty. Some are balance hops:malt but many are mostly malty sodas, soups, or earthy-grainy treats. They range from bone dry to a level of sweetness that would gag a honeybee. Still, many breweries offer reds and ambers separately. It's handy to separate out the labels this way. 

Brits are more apt to have a pale ale in gold and everything else is brown to them. Some reviewers merge them but I felt the self-termed description should be respected to this degree. There is a true red ale called Irish Red Ale which gains this color from loads of of roasted barley; often the crystal form of malt. Irish Red's are now traditional seasonals for St. Patrick's Day but some are offered all year. Flanders Red Ales are from Belgium and these are found in our Ale - Belgian - Brown, Red, or Amber category. It should be noted that some brewers artificially color their red ales to look pretty in a glass; the flavor so weak there's nothing red or brown in the plant parts to make the coloring real. The Imperial Red Ale (and for this I recommend Rogue XS as your standard) is strong in everything, fierce and rewarding at the same time.

Abita Turbo Dog
RATING: 3.5
It won't blow your turbo and neither is it a dog. This Louisiana brew is a reddish-amber with ample carbonation and a variable head. It is only moderately flavored and immediately strikes you as being more sweet than hop-filled. If you like Coors Winterfest and other American sweet ambers this Bayou brew is sure to please. While it could be called a Soda-beer it is flavorful enough to please. We'd like a bit more turbo boost.               
                                              
Billy Goat Bock
RATING:  4.0
Portland OR/Baltimore MD/LaCross WI/San Antonio TX    
This dark red amber beer arrives in 22 oz. bottles for around $2.50 and    originates in La Crosse WI, San Antonio, Portland, or Baltimore. It's a decent economy amber but little more. The label    is of a cute billy goat raising high the hem of an even cuter young lady and    has different effects on the sexes. It is made by Brewski and made a better    effect on every last reviewer who tried them before. It has a touch more hops    than malt and only a medium potency of either. We have consumed gallons of    fest beers lately and so the restrained semi-sweetness was refreshing. This    is no worldbeater but many of us felt 'there is hardly a better 22 ounce    amber for under $3.00...above that Rhinochasers comes to mind.' Outside mixed    company most guys felt the label was non-sexist and a welcome trend!!! It's a decent economy amber but little more. Last tasted in 1995.

Bolten Alt    g    rar    4.5    613        Korschenbroich    How many breweries started in the year 1266 have marketing people sitting    around at an 800 number in the US to get comments? Back in 1266 if they    didn't like your beer they'd put your head on a pole and set fire to the    town. We also suspect the neat package that hangs bottles by the caps in a    cardboard frame is recent too. It actually works but the idea of dangling    $14 worth of bottles in front of 50 people at a checkout is most unnerving.    Color is a rich red amber; the head is medium long. This oldest of Altbier    makers is entitled to define the style. It is mostly malty but a refined hops    finish also presents itself. 'Dry, balanced and satisfying' is a typical com-    ment. Price and comparison to sugary sweet O-fest beers will influence some.
Brasseurs Beer of Paris    f    rar    5.0    45            This champagne-bottled beer merits comparison to Jenlain, Trois Monts, and    several others with similar presentation and price. Brasseurs De Paris from    Douai France produce this exceptional reddish-amber beer that is pure heaven    for complex malty flavor. It is sweet and fruity like a British or premium    American ale. Yet it is NOT potent like some ales and finishs a touch dry.    We enjoyed it every bit as much as Septante Five. A good choice for parties.               

Brewski Bar Room Ale    u    rar    3.5    637        Portland OR/La Crosse WI/Baltimore MD/San Antonio TX    Described as a 'Premium AMERICAN BROWN ALE' this latest introduction carries    a trademark (tm). Color is very bright red under light and only a big imag-    ination sees any brown or amber. The head is mid-sized. We all preferred the    Billy Goat Goat from Brewski to this Bar Room Ale - both are ambers. Most    similiar in our trial was Naked Aspen Brown Ale as both share sweet carmel    malt quality. Reviewers noted 'delightful sweet CANDY BEER in the first    taste but disappointing in a thinner final performance' and 'barely enough    malt under the syrupy palate to be tolerated...needs more hops to provide    layers of flavor.'. We could classify it as AMERICAN OKTOBERFEST CARMEL ALE.    The 'monotone honey theme needs true beer flavors to round it out.'.
                                                     
Chicago's Legacy Red Ale
RATING: 4.0
Chicago, Illinois
Chicago Brewing Co. is making a revival of an 1800's 'heathful and exhiler-    ating ale'. Color is a bright red amber with respectable head and lace. The    hop-based aromatic character is intentional and separates it from your    ordinary microbrewed red ale. Malt flavors slightly dominate the hops but    the balance is refined. The finish is clean and dry but for us the overall    complexity does suffer. This is surely a unique beer as we cannot find any    (of 474 tested to date) that has the same palate transitions and aroma. It    is satisfying and yet hard to describe. The aroma, dry finish, bright    color, and drinkability at near room temp. make it a fine 'table beer'.   

Dixie Crimson Voodoo Ale (Red Ale) 
RATING: 5.0
New Orleans, Louisiana
This NOLA brewer dazzled us with their Blackened Voodoo Lager. This newer red ale is up to that standard. In truth we thought it outranked the St. Stan's Red Sky Ale which the respected Malt Advocate once voted as #1in this class. This master work of brewing is indeed quite red and its pale and roasted malts show to nice effect. Actually these two red ales are very different with Red Sky being more hoppy/fruity and this distinctly a malt    overdose. This is not to say all of you readers will believe the Voodoo magic but most of us did. Your own test panel is recommended as both are very excellent and unique products. If you don't like your amber ales to have much more malt than hops this could displease. To most folks it is a true joy.

Fort Collins Retro Red Ale
RATING: 3.5
Fort Collins, Colorado
The label features a "retro" red wagon on our youthful days - actually my dad's time - I had a red banana-seat bike from Sears with a giant 3-speed shifter instead. Anyhow, "This banshee of a red ale is a looker and a taster" with "assertive" hops and rich malt. "You will be transported in time when the griffin ruled". The brew pours rich amber-red, very dark for a red ale and with a huge beige head. The first sip is weakish and unfocused but a density of nice but moderate malt notes come to the foreground in seconds. The finish is dry and sometimes ragged if kept on the bar or table until a bit warm. It found it interesting but neither memorable nor special in any manner. Move on.
                                             
Goose Island Kilgubbin Red Ale 
RATING: 4.0
Chicago, Illinois
The next time you need your Kilgubbin goosed you can call 1-800-GOOSE-ME. Really. They'll send you a newsletter anyhow. You'll notice first that this has a very enthusiastic (make that dangerous) head. It fills a glass with the speed of a shaken German Weiss or bottle-fermented Belgian white. Color is bright copper amber but that qualifies as red by red ale standards. Flavor is a very tangy and biting hops with subtle malt notes added for balance. That nip in the dryish finish is just right for some folks - slightly disconcerting for others.  All agree it is well made even if not always your idea of perfect ale. Review-    ers noted the 'the bite almost gives the feel of stronger alcohol content...distinct and superior to your average sweet American red ale'.


Grant's Celtic Ale    u    rar    5.0    137    BEST CELTIC ALE 1994        This American masterpiece from Yakima WA is described on the artful label as    'mild ale styled after the lighter brews of Ireland'. Color is dark red amber.    Head is long and foamy. Flavor is PURE HEAVEN from a sweet complexity of rare    yeast and Cascade hops. The good news: 99 calories. The bad: $9-10 a six.    Bert Grant's claim of 'one of the world's great ales' is true. This liquid    Celtic candy is our top American amber ale. It will thrill and delight you.     

Green Flash Hop Head Red Ale
RATING: 5.0
Vista, California
This 6% ABV brew is reddish-brown with a goodly head that is more than long. Steady and vigorous hops flavors infuse our experience and this dosing is restrained to near perfection. It's a fizzy, full-blown, never exorbitant hops delight that might replace Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and their similar concoctions in one's mind. Availability is of course a problem with that later thought but the quality warrants a preference for this label over a great many others in the red, amber, and pale ale classes. I am impressed and this month in testings I find myself rarely as stirred as on this occasion. This gratifying label should be better known and not just among hopophiles known for such hop preferences. Most beer lovers are all hopheads in the final analysis even if we like balance with malt , wheat grain, and yeast to offset some known extremes. It was not until I wrote the above about this delectable potion that I learned it had won the 2008 World Beer Cup for American-style Amber/Red Ale and the 2007 GABF Silver for the same category. Those are high marks indeed and I've yet to find a hophead or any beer lover who did not admire this label to lofty degrees.

Harvey's Christmas Ale (2008)
RATING: 5.0
Lewes, Sussex, England
The bright red and white St. Nick on the label gets your attention in any season. The 8.1% ABV will also grab you by the sack. It pours dark amberish-red, a big light brown head as a treat. First flavor notes are that of tart, half-citrusy malt. Sweetness fills various subsequent places to different degrees but the finish is more dry/smooth than I had expected. It is not too sweet for me but opinions vary in the review community. In the Winter Warmer Ale traditional the beer is ultra smooth in the mid to late notes, densing loaded with ample, comforting malts of the most nirvanic beauty. It's very rich for an ale but so smooth you never mind. Harvey's is one of the those old British brewers who skill from 1790 is shown not just on the label but inside as well. This Harvey's is not the one of Bristol Cream sherry fame which is John Harvey's Inc. but in the ale world this firm in Lewes has a similar strongly and ancient rep. I find this ale perfect, flawless, and in need of nothing but being consumed full and long on a cold night. This is one of those benchmark ales every new American micro house (or those from other lands as well) might well consult when trying to brew "big but smooth" for a seasonal theme. This is a liquid textbook.          

Henry Weinhard's Boar's Head Red 
RATING: 3.0 
Portland, Oregon
Color is very bright amber and the head is quick. Carbonation is prolonged.    Identified on the label as a 'red lager' this brew has some interesting    malt and faint hop notes at first taste. Sadly it finishes thinly flavored    and mild. The lack of deep lager or hops flavor is explained by the $5.99    price. At that price something from Saranac is a better value. As their    private reserve it is drinkable with rich meals and has classy packaging    but on its own the flavor is sorely wanting. Given the tendency of brewers    to hide a weak red brew with sugary sweetness this non-sweet red is worth    some praise. It simply needs EITHER a hops punch OR a malty character.   

Highland Cold Mountain Winter Ale
RATING: 5.0
Asheville, North Carolina
I remember when the Oscar-winning movie Cold Mountain came out, a Jude Law and Nicole Kidman romance centered around the Civil War in North Carolina and Virginia. It's still a fav of mine late at night or on a leisurely Sunday afternoon. Renee Zellweger (won Oscar for best-supporting actress), Natalie Portman, Kathy Baker, and Donald Sutherland add to the context and quality; great performances all. It was available on pay-per-view one night in my Richmond hotel and gave it a view. The battle that took place in Petersburg VA was only 20 minutes down the interstate from my hotel. Whoops...I'm a southerner now...it was just 'a piece up the road. The next morning I drove 20 minutes and learned about the battle from the displays and real, original earth mounds that are carefully preserved. Anyhow, Cold Mountain is a good name for a western NC beer because of the real place of that name in the Pisgah National Forest in Asheville. Curiously, the movie was not filmed there, supposedly because Romania had better, older, more majestic virgin forests to match the Cold Mountain novel by Charles Frazier. Odd how The Last of the Mohicans was filmed in the real Cold Mt. area and they had plenty of lovely woodlands, waterfalls, rocky outcrops, and stunning nature scenes; or could it just be that Romania has film crews willing to work for 12 cents a week?.

This very bright red beer has a very strong, lasting lace and a huge brownish head. The sumptuous, rather full flavor is comforting malt cubed. It begins a bit tart, very lightly hopped, and finishes with those warming barley flavors that capture one's heart and head. This wonderful brew is inspiring, consoling, and nourishing in all ways. It is soft enough, full enough, and refined enough to get another buy, especially in their larger seasonal bottles which went for $10 in Winter 2008.  I would never change this recipe and execution ever for any reason. I'm tempting to say this brew is as comforting and savory as sharing a bunk with Nicole Kidman on a Cold Mountain winter night - but some female around here might punch me.

Humboldt Red Nectar Ale    u    rar    5.0    730    BEST RED ALE SPRING 1996    Arcata CA    Humboldt Brewing of the like-named county started in 1854 but was only re-    vitalized in 1987. Their brewpub includes the 'largest historical beer glass'    collection and Oakland Raiders Superbowl memorabilia. This brew is well named.    It's so orangey red you'd expect to be a raspberry something beer. In fact it's    a SWEET WELL-HOPPED ALE with too much of either syrup or product of the vine.    Almost everyone was enthusiastic about the hummingbird label art. The exciting    color, generous but restrained hopping, and smooth sweetness made this an ideal    RED ALE for most of our panalists - both experienced experts and newer    eager hobbyists. At $8.00 a sixpack it was a decent value. We highly    recommend as one of the best microbrew red ales seen in some time.

J.W. Lees Moonraker Award-Winning Strong Beer
RATING:
Manchester, England
First I find it curious they don't proclaim it as "Strong Ale", a term Manchester and most UK brewers wield like an medieval 30-pound sword. The announce it as dry and fruity so ale is a strong possibility, yes? Their website and beer review websites confirm it it to be an ale - tastebuds can be confused with this much fruitiness. It's 7.5% ABV and that makes it strong in one sense at least. Their's is a curious website with no product descriptions but clickable headings called Recruitment, Vacancies, Tenancies, and "Our Pubs". No product reviews, hype, games, or where to buy our stuff links. Rather odd all that.

It pours in a color of garnet-amber, more a ruby-brown in fact, quite dark and somber, flavor being very sweet malt in the first three passages of flavor. The finish is slightly more dry than early notes but that's like saying the deck of a fishing vessel at full gale is drier than the bottom of the sea; hardly a useful point in general! It's a nice pick for those who like their malty things high in ethanol, very sweet and loaded with simple fruit notes. It could be made more complex. I am told by those who know fruits well there are raisins, figs, and dates among those zings which to me a merely generic fruit esters. Wait...wait now. If I drink it all day and enough of it, I'd bet every other fruit known to pomology would come to the fore. As someone with a Masters Degree in Horticulture and having gotten an "A" at Cornell in a surprising hard course called Fruit and Vegetable Types and Identification my first thought was pineapple. (For those of you laughing: why don't you try sitting down with a basket of Sharpie-numbered potatoes and name the precise cultivated variety on your exam paper from morphological memory. They take their potato ID very seriously in the Ivy League at Ithaca. Ditto for Pineapple.). As a regular consumer of figs - take that one off the list.

Jeremiah Red Ale    u    rar        990                                               

Killian's Irish Red    u    rar    4.0    175            In the tradition of George Killian Lett of Enniscorthy Ireland (since 1864)    we get a made-in-America amber Irish lager. One must read carefully to note    that Coors is the US brewer of this superb product. It is ice tea colored but    less rich than many amber beers. It has a quick fading head and a rather    sweet flavor. Served very cold its flavor proves unique and with sophisticated    substance. If you wish Coors made a more potent, darker beer - this is it.               
Lake Tahoe Red Ale        rar   

Lagunitas Lucky 13 Mondo Large Red Ale
RATING: 5.0
Petaluma, California
Lagunitas is celebrating their 13th anniversary with a 76 IBU, 8.2%, dark amber beer with a nice beige head of long duration and medium depth. The "mondo" 22 oz. bottles were released on June 2009. I love their motto of "beer speaks...people mumble". I began to mumble after this one for the ABV sneaks up on you like a lucky horseshoe coming out the sky and clanking one on the noggin. This label is wonderfully complex, poetic with bright notes of many types, overloaded with fruit and hops and malt like a grand cornucopia for the ages! I was not expecting such rich citrus/floral depth from something not showing me yeast in the bottom. This is a truly outstanding, "raise the bar high", and lofty liquid proof that American microbrews can not only keep up but actually stun us. I've never been so sure of a 5 bottle rating as anywhere in this large record of reviews. I really don't know what the preoccupation of recent years with mono-dimensional double and imperial IPAs  - especially when something of this quality with lavish fruit and malt infrastructure proves so much more interesting. SO MUCH MORE INTERESTING. I know that every brewer thinks they need 21 named styles but some of the modern amber crap is just boring excess for it's own sake and because they can. Lucky 13 is contrary to the Excess is Better Theory for it's own sake - it is fruitful, fruity, elegance because that is what the brewing art should be and what informed, suds-minded consumers will always crave. There is more than horsepower (hops) in a car (beer) - there is also heated leather portage, interface, acceleration, and corner handling. Any idiot can dump six barrels of dried green buds into a tank anywhere on earth anytime. When copious hops, malt, and fruity yeast come into absolute harmony, we have performance of a credible nature. Lucky 13 is planned excellence, carefully crafted, nothing left to chance, and worthy of your dollars while it lasts.


Mad River Jamaica Brand Red Ale
RATING: 4.5
Blue Lake, California
This label is brewed for the annual Reggae Festival in Humboldt Co. and manages to get to the rest of us in small portions. Officially It pairs with Jamaican  jerk chicken and pretty much anything else from a pot, pan. kettle, grill, or oven. This dark reddish-amber beer is 6.5% ABV (a tad embellished in that good way) with a persistant cream head. It is more moderately flavored than the color suggests, medium sweet hops drenched with more malt than the vinous thing. The balance at first sip is respectable. The finish tosses out endless monochromatic tawny rainbows of malt; some very good malts I suspect. There is enough spicy hops to give a nip - not an equilibrium so much as a workable peace treaty. I'd give it another notch of hops and layer the malts even more but I think they are close to a medal winner. The ale is very inviting, superficially simple perhaps, but there is more to be had with repeated sips and variable temp trials. There is a very strong, perfectable core to this concoction. They should explore it's upside unless it's about passing it off for the dumb and numb festival crowd who neither know about or care for great beer. I suspect they have higher motives and a brighter future will come from the recipe. But if it's a reggae festival I suspect hops is not the most popular bit of aromatic vegetation on their minds. One has to consider all the pairings...

                                   
Marblehead Red Ale        rar                                                       
Mehana Red Ale        rar           

McSorley's Irish Pale Ale
RATING: 4.5
Wilkes-Barre, Pennsylvania
Okay. It's an Irish style ale made in NYC, McSorleys est. 1854 on 7th Street. No? Okay. It's made in Wilkes-Barre, PA. Will it be Bangalore next week? Actually the master brewer is Lions Brewery. Confused yet? This "Ale is Well" label turns out to be a nicer product than I'd expected for the price and pitch. It's a nice amber-gold, techically an Irish Red Ale in fact, immediately loaded with what I like to call "butterscotch malt" flavors of the most divine quality. Yummy stuff! The hops is there but not until you've gotten comforted to death with smothering, warming malts of much character. It is sensibility sweet, never to excess, nicely balanced in all the notes from small to large. It also warms gracefully with some ease and has a nice bright style of carbonation.                  

                           
Mendocino Red Tail Ale    u    rar    3.5    760        Hopland CA    What better name for a brewery town than Hopland, California? This pale amber    classic among RED ALES is notably zesty with pale and carmel malts and    moderate hopping. The finish is dry and crisp as claimed on the label. The    reason some reviewers, with us and published elsewhere, fail to rate it highly    is a sometimes thinnish finish. It reminded one reviewer here of 'another near    but off-the-mark Coors seasonal'. At a $7.99 price that is hard to understand.    When you think of the top American microbrew ales we think Mendocino needs    to stop relying on old laurels and boost the complexity and depth. Very well    chilled it is quite refreshing for summer but most beer enthusiasts will    find it wanting.
Nutfield Auburn Ale (Irish Red)    u    rar    5.0    740    BEST RED ALE FROM THE USA 1996    Derry NH    This IRISH RED ALE uses no pasteurization nor preservatives in a quest to pro-    duce an authentic beer. It is a tribute to those who left Derry, Ireland in 1719    to settle in Derry, New Hampshire. The Nutfield Colony there gave rise to the    microbrewery's modern name. Color is rich reddish-amber with a lasting ivory    head. It has a wonderful tangy hops theme over a strong malt base. The finish    is wonderfully dry and bitter. The head is very persistant in our tests.    Reviewers described a 'genuinely full-powered ale with quality of flavor and    appearance...a shade too strong for me' and 'one of the best RED ALES from an    American brewery'. Collectors of labels will want the lovely artwork with slick    graphics. Recommended if you demand authentic rich ale that holds nothing back.
Old Alabama Red Ale        rar                                                       

Old Devil Beer (Wychwood)    e    rar    4.5    1201        Witney, Oxfordshire    Wychwood Brewery makes this reddish-amber ale with a very attractive    but fierce devil on the label. His pitchfork actually stabs a bloody angel    if you look close enough! The brew has a semi-persistant cream and a    moderate dose of amber malts. Worcestershire hops are used to good effect    in what is rather unique product. There is nice herbal hops notes, slightly    fruitiness, and a skilled malting to round them out. This is a true British    ale and while there are richer and more sophisticated this is one purchase    few will regret. Besides the label is enough to reassure your mother-in-law    you've gone totally to ruin.   

Old Milwaukee Red 
   u    rar    2.5   
597        Detroit MI 
   The name 'Old Milwaukee Red' is the beer world's equivalent of 'Yugo Twin    Turbo GT' - it's hard to believe a bland product could be made potent. In    fact our skepticism was realized. The addition of 'Drum Roasted Carmel    Malt' was hardly noticed. The color sure is red; and there is no real head.    Ditto for flavor. One reviewer suggested it earn an award for 'innovative    brewing by adding color without changing flavor'. Actually the flavor does    appear to be superior - a touch sweeter and with only the occasional hint of    malt. Another suggested it 'is neither a bad beer nor a good one...simply    a red beer'. By the way it is officially a lager but there is not enough    flavor clues to call it ale or lager really. Just red. Just a beer.

Oregon Honey Red Ale    u    rar    5.0    652        Portland OR    This microbrew out of Portland uses natural Oregon wildflower honey to a base    of ale made with dark roasted malts. Color is reddish-amber but not a cherry    red as some red ales. The head is large and made of fine off-white foam. Carb-    ination is weak to moderate. Slight aroma. First taste is sweet with a nice    hops and malt balance. The finish tends to favor the roasted malt side. Not    a few of us noted that the sweetening is 'clearly with honey and not the soda-    corn syrup approach of many honey beers'. Any tea drinker will tell you that    honey imparts a far different flavor than white sucrose or fructose. The    difference is clear here and we feel that makes this one a good standard for    judging other honey beers. There is nothing to fault in flavor or character.

Orkney Red MacGregor Orcadian Ale
RATING: 5.0
Quoyloo, Scotland
Never seen an ale that recommended it be paired with "casseroles, pies, and smoked cheese". I guess that makes Pabst a companion for "Cheesy puffs, yesterday's 2 for $5 large pizza left out all night, pretzels soft and greenish from being open an entire week, and your ex-girlfriend's curiously aromatic, furry Chinese food from the back of the fridge". This stuff has a remarkably classy and glossy label for a UK import - nice work to bring them up to domestic microbrew appeal. This "ruby ale" was "5000 years in the making" but is a shocking 4.0% ABV. They say the nose is "delicate, floral, and fruity with notes of VIOLETS, cherries, coffee, and caramel". Never heard of no violet-scented beer that goes down easy like with casseroles and pie! Wonder if that applies to pungent, crusty tuna casserole and 900 calorie pecan pie slices from down South he'are. This must be amazing nectar. As to the palate they proclaim "fruits", "juicy malt character", roasted and biscuit malt, and a "spicy hop finish". It has won things in casks but I must be a bottle reviewer and leave the other realm alone. 

Now for the reality and my take: red means dark amber in the pour. Head is stiff, finely bubbled, dark ivory, lasting into the next millenium in an irreguler dome with many subdomes. Nose is like biscuits from the best bakery in town at 5AM; if they rubbed some hop blossoms on 'em. The claimed "robust...but delicate" thing bothers me for I know of no car or beer with high horsepower but low torque in the green light rallies. They have the nippy, spicy hops finish down for this is nearly an ESB to my moderately informed, average, American beer-drinker tastebuds. To say the malts are sophisticated is like saying that Italian guy Enzo from Maranello made some acceptable, middling engines. I doubt any big American microbrew could copy this and I don't know why. It screams Scotland and the vast sensibility that permeates that land to the benefit of all of us in so many liquid, pourable forms. Yes - it is factually "robust but delicate" and I'd better not give an analogy on that point aside from some cute, anthopomorphic, Hippo ballerinas I saw on on the Disney Channel last week for reasons I don't recall.  This is an ale so sensible, magical, absolutely astounding, and transcendant I better stop writing and open another.

Rainbow Red Ale (Wisconsin Brewing)        rar                                                       
Red Bird Ale        rar                                                       
Red Lady Ale (Crested Butte)        rar                                                       
Red Mountain Red Ale    u    rar    3.0    291            This amber ale out of Birmingham is perhaps their most disappointing ale.    Color is bright but pale amber with a lasting foamy head. While it has some    immediate fruit notes and a trace of hop flavor it proves rather light and    weak. It might be an AMBER LIGHT in fact. The label's claim of 'robust    flavor' is not correct - and we tried 12 bottles at varying temps. It can't    compare even closely with Miller Reserve Amber which is richly hopped.               
Redwood Coast Biltmore Red Ale        rar                                                       
Ricardo's Red Rocket Ale        rar                                                       
Rockford Red Ale    u    rar    4.5    785        Wilmington DE    This microbrew is bright copper amber with a lasting head of off white. Flavor    is very well hopped combined with a nice ale fruitiness and slight sweetness.    This is the kind of ale fruit flavor so lacking in many American beers and    certainly in most under the RED ALE name. At $6.49 this was an exceptional    value and rewarding experience most of us would repeat again and again. It    is one of the best values in American microbrews as we found with their    IPA. Reviewers noted 'very complete product...nothing to fault' and 'rich Ameri-    can hops, cherry, and slight citrus in full semi-sweet doses of the best quality    we can describe.'. One of the better red ales from any land.   
Rodenbach Grand Cru (Red Ale)    u    rar    5.0    299            If there is a beer worth $24.00 a sixpack this is it. Color is dark red amber    with high carbonation. Special sugars and 2 years fermentation in oak make for    a wine-like quality. Flavor is fruity and acidic not unlike a Lambic. Alcohol    is lower than most Belgian white ales - 4.1 weight/5.2 volume. This is un-    doubtedly one of the beer world's classics and must be tried as part of a    basic education. Their yeast strain alone has 150 years of refinement. Superb!               
Rogue's Brewer's Festival Ale 1998    u    rar    4.5    998        Newport OR    Like several of Rogue's superb ales this one appears to be a rerun of the    previously issued Santa's Private Reserve. The ingredient list is similar    and so is the color and recorded flavors. They both are billed as having a    'sprucy finish' - a phrase one is hard placed to forget. Few breweries could    get away with such relabeling perhaps but Maier is generally forgiving since    they always come with a lovely new painted bottle. Besides the supply of the    previously labeled batches are probably gone anyhow. This one is dedicated to    a Renaissance in the South - among whose microbrewers this festival occured.    That is certainly a nice tribute since some of his best East Coast competitors    were around. And few of them had anything to even come close!

Rogue XS Imperial Red Ale
RATING: 4.5
Newport, Oregon
The Rogue XS line are just 7 ouncers but you get alot of everything fine in this style. It pour rather brown for a red ale but let's call it brownish-red or burgundy-leather and move on. The malts include Hugh Baird Crystal, Black, Munich, Chocolate, Great Western Harrington, Klages, and rolled oats - so they are clearly going with big, special ammo here. The hops are Willamette, Cascade, and Chinock, wrapped around their Rogue Pacman yeast. The head is big, rocky, and light cream in color. First sip was thinnish, bringing a frown. Then some bursts of dark fruit, very high quality but subtle hops, and spice came up. Next sip and a deeper one, more swirl. Same notes but stronger now, chewy as they warned us, and lingering in bitter hops and spice in the finish. More sips of course and more of these interesting malts which hold up the nippy hops and go at playful war with them. This is very hard to pin down product and Rogue is famous for that kind of measured experimentation. It is an ideal beer tasting club subject for no one will say the same thing. In the final analysis, I found it fascinating but a bit wanting on the fun meter; perhaps a touch too medicinal and hoppy for me though the malt recipe is shockingly good and rare.

Rogue's Red Fox Ale    u    rar    5.0    889        Newport OR    These 12 oz. bottles are mostly labeled in Japanese and show a map tracing the    route from Newport to Hokkaido. It is certainly a decent idea to send over the    West Coast's Lexus of beers. It is a cloudy amber-red with a yellowish-    ivory head. The hop aroma is remarkable. The flavor is even more impressive    and no doubt these small bottles could command a very high price if so    desired. There is quite simply no American red ale that would be any better.    This is surely a nice bottle for collectors of that container but many of    us will stick with the VERY LARGE bottles to satisfy our cravings.       
Rogue's St. Rogue Red Ale    u    rar    4.0    521        Newport OR    Oregon Brewing Co. makes this reddish amber ale with a head more bubbly (and    less foamy) than the Ashland Amber Ale. They describe the finish as 'hoppy    sprucy'. It has more of a spicy bite than the either the Mogul or Ashland    Amber. The finish is not as smooth and that 'sprucy' aftertaste persists for    some time. In that respect it is not compatible with most meals. As ales go    this is unique and is surely worth the tiny $4.00 price.    some time.           
Rubens Red (Rouge)    b    rar    5.0    454        Corsendonk    Having tried the Gold or Oro version this more flavorful brew came as a    surprise indeed. Color is cloudy amber with carbonation but little head.    Flavor is distinctly apricot fruity with what they call a 'pleasant spicy    aroma'. It is more fruitful aromatic than spicy to us. It is almost a    nectar beer and we created a similar effect with vodka and apricot nectar.    For $1.75 a bottle (or in four packs) it was a fine deal and a wonderful    summer treat. This is no wine cooler - it is real brewing accomplishment.           
Ruedrich's Red Seal Ale    u    rar    5.0    304    BEST FRUITY ALE 1993        This fine ale comes from North Coast of Mendocino Co. Color is medium amber    and the head is semi-enduring. We compared it with similarly colored Orval.    Red Seal is decidely sweeter (less acidic) and more fruity in flavor. It    has the kind of charm that will turn a wine lover into a lover of great beer.    It is far more alive and fruity than their Christmas Ale but both are very    worthwhile. It is one of the most smooth and drinkable ales from the US.    

Samuel Adams Irish Red (Ale)
RATING: 4.5
Boston, Mass.
The style is based on one they say developed in Ireland about 1710 and uses rich caramel and pale maltings to give it flavor and sweetness. East Kent Goldings hops add some earthy, resourceful notes. The color is a bright reddish-amber that will make a tumbler from the dollar store look like Waterford. The head is large, lasting, and a dark cream. Jim Koch recommends it with pork chops and I recommend it for making a rich, reduced glaze for said chopped porcine medallions. First sip approaches easily but it soon turns very tart, perhaps a minor flaw, then you are drenched with caramel sugars and finally malt foundations in the moderate to strong range for ales of this color. There are more robust, ornate, and imposing red ales available and several are reviewed in this section. This product is available with some regularity of late and for a price that shouts value and consistantly all over town. I found a couple of rough, uneven notes in some finishes (not most) and think it might best be served a few degrees below Frigidaire-ville so those malts are more expressed and not chilled to silence. I would love to have more fruit dialed up but they could have and decided not to. Many of these of these mass-produced SA labels are very satisfactory without exploiding one's socks, tastebuds, brains, or other wowable features to fanciful places. These are a solid run, a very long run now, of good solid ales, not always worldbeaters nor Maybachs on Rodeo Drive, but good enjoyable, consistantly fine products. Dinner with friends is a perfect time to ask for their full SA line and keep them coming cold and tall. Beer tasting with well-informed, brew-savvy lads and lasses at a higher level will require something more top shelf and higher grade. Here is a daily utility red ale and not your special nor noble sipping stuff. It's a worthy ale when it's more about the conversation than the brew in everyone's hand.

Saranac Red Ale
RATING: 4.0
Utica, New York
The Irish flag and giant green shamrock on the label together with it's February 2009 release suggest this is a St. Patty's day treat. It pours dark reddish-amber, some lace, and a shortish cream head. It's perhaps a 4 on the dry:sweet scale of 10, far more dry than I'd expected from Saranac. It is tart overall, nice toffee notes, these always more tart than sugary, and yet in some places a hint of the Scotch ale flavorings. Scotch-Irish Ale? If tain't Irish...it's crap! (with apologies to SNL). I think of this label more as a crystal malt tea at times, not as ale-like as it might be in terms of supporting hops and fruit flavors. It's a tad ragged warmed to near room temp so serve it chilled and drink it promptly. This is a good value ($6.99 per six in 2009) and I respect it as such but if you want a treat and can pick just one...pick from the 5.0's described here.

           
Smoky Mountain India Red Ale    u    rar    5.0    358            The brewery in Waynesville NC has done work as fine or better than any of    Virginia's finest breweries. This cloudy (!) amber is overflowing in flavor    but it not so potent as expected. The hops and malt balance is perfect and    finishes in a delightful smoothness. It is most distinct from Rhino Chasers    and Red Mountain Red Ale with which is was tested. It is flavorful and truly    enjoyable without calling attention to any one component.               
Southside Meaning of Life Pensive Red Ale        rar                                                       
St. Amand French Country Ale    f    rar    4.0    308            From the makers of the well-loved Castelain this rich red amber beer is    corked and has superb carbonation. In the BIERE DE GARDE group of ales it    begs comparison to Jenlain, Trois Monts,and Jade French in your own testing.    It is fruity but surprising light in the overall manner of some American amber    ales. We'd consider Jenlain (5 bottles) to be more tasty and refined but this    is superior to Jade French (3 bottles). Jenlain has a longer finish.               
St. Andrew's Ale    e    rar    5.0    513        Dunbar Scotland    The folks at Belhaven of Dunbar Scotland also make Belhaven Scottish Ale    and MacAndrew's but we could not find either of those to compare to it. The    slick foiled bottle with its nicely painted castle ruin is most appealing.    We liked $3.00 price for a full 18 ounces. The color is reddish amber but is    more dark than bright. The head is very large and foamy and lasts for a few    millenia - although could not wait more than 2 minutes to guzzle down the    last drop. Real aroma is clear and unlike most British ales it has the potent    thrust of Scotish brew - Old Peculiar being one exception. There is no medic-    inal or funny bitterness that we reviewers tolerate as 'necessary character'.    Instead it is forceful yet polished; an enthusiast's evening sipping beer.
St. Stan's Red Sky Ale    u    rar    4.5    595        Modesto CA    St. Stan's was started around 1973 when Garith Helm and Romy Angle became    impressed with German beers on a trip to that land. They produce two Alt    styles (Amber and Dark) plus this Red (more British). Color is bright red    amber with a small but lasting head and abundant carbonation. It is rich    with hops but not nearly as rich as premium Pale Ales like Sierra Nevada.    Nor is quite as fruity like other CA micros such as North Coast or Anderson.    Malt Advocate rated it their #1 Red Ale and the Wine Enthusiast said it was    #2 worldwide. For us it was very excellent but red amber ales out of North    Coast and Rogue are more complex and rewarding in the long run. At some    drinking temperatures there were 'unkempt flavors' and vague bitterness.
Tasha's Red Tail Ale (Stark Mill)        rar         

Terrapin Big Hoppy Monster Imperial Red Ale
RATING: 5.0
Frederick, Maryland
I'm worried about a brewing nomenclature arms race with the word "imperial" the equivalent of "MIV" or "neutron emission capable" or "stealth-cruise ready". The rich hopping is said to be compliment by a "massive malt backbone". This monster pours in a rich brownish-ruby shade that stands up to strong light very nicely. The large beige head is mountainous and lasting. Hops dominates in a sub-IPA way with malt quickly coming to the midground and rounding it out very well. It is a strong beer but not a cloying, honey-drenched, or overwhelming one; and such is usually the sign of great brewmasters who known their process and ingredients to a high level of skill. I give it the perfect 5.0 because it is hardy, husky, hoppy, and yet balanced with quality malt and silk. The steady flow of flavors leaves nothing in the unused barrel and yet the high doses are modulated, layered, and developed in a very luxurious way. Here is a velvet hammer to full advantage to all parties, strength without bluntness, benevolent might, and satisfaction to the hilt. The Big Hoppy Monster caresses you with surprising kindness and light tenderness; King Kong and Fay Wray on the good days. We're captives here and happy for it. This is one of my favorite American red ales in recent years (12/2008).

                                              
Tree Red Ale        rar                                                       
Weeping Radish Spring Bock    u    rar    5.0    543        Manteo NC/Durham NC    Weeping Radish of both Manteo and Durham NC issued this Spring Bock in early    April 1995. Color is amber red with a short duration head and no lace. The    flavor is most impressive with abundant tart hops coming quickly to play and    a semi-sweet malty finish soon thereafter. While we found their specialty    Fest Beer to be wanting and a touch thin this Spring Bock is uncompromisingly    fully loaded and tasty. The $3.39 price we paid for 22 ounces is a solid    value with many other rich ambers being $1.00 higher. If one is more fond    of a malty amber the 'abrupt tangy hops' (one reviewer's comment) may not    be ideal. Otherwise the majority of us found it quite ideal and a nice treat.    The color photo label with 2 blondes, a ram and a big clock is unique.

ALE  - SCOTTISH (SCOTCH)

As many of you know, Scotch is a drink and Scottish is a adjective about someting from Scotland. Thus we should have Scottish Ale, Scottish pines, and Scottish Shortbread. 

We think this style came from Edinburgh in the 1800's and is based on pale ales in general. The strongest Scotch Ales are called Wee Heavy Ales and these tend to have a darker color, higher alcohol, and more of all the flavors. An extreme Wee Heavy or Scottish is often called a Barleywine with very extreme flavors and the highest ABV levels. Everything in this category tends to have carmelized rich malt flavors, sometimes rich molasses, toffee and medicinal flavors, the later in a good sense. There is much less hops and chocolate malt than some other ales; well, sometimes. There are also Whiskey Ales related to this group where the malt are dried by peat flames and have a bit of that flavor - not to be confused with ales fermented in whiskey barrels. Not everything with the Scotch Ale label will be traditional or true to the style. 

Belhaven Scottish Ale
RATING: 5.0
Dunbar, Scotland
The wonderfully painted label tells us of monastic traditions before their 1719 founding and that naturalist John Muir was born in their small harbour- town of Dunbar. The head is long-lived and the color a dark clear amber. It begs comparison to more widely distributed and equally authentic McEwans Scottish Ale. Both had a spicy, nearly medicinal flavor that is unique and refined. We felt Belhaven was smoother-creamier but with a shorter finish. I have found it one of the best ales in this class since the 90's though I like to try anything new. 


Caledonian Golden Pale Ale
RATING: 4.5
Edinburgh, Scotland

From the Edinburgh makers of famous MacAndrews Scottish Ale and the also organic Golden Promise Ale is this new package. We could not find a bottle of Golden Promise to compare and see if they're similar. Color is dark golden tinged pale amber. The head is near white, micro-foamed, and lasting. It certainly has the quality of their other labels. Kent hops and organic Scottish barley are used. Though the big print says PALE ALE the fine print and our taste buds scream SCOTTISH ALE. That aroma, tangy herbalness, and candy-like malt are in full presentation. Reviewers noted 'rich and rewarding...every ingrediant brought out to perfection' and 'good SCOTTISH type ALE...MacAndrews is richer overall and still my choice'. Recommended for your taste testing sessions.

Founder's Dirty Bastard Scotch Style Ale
RATING: 4.5
Grand Rapids, Michigan
I was amazing when this stuff poured a dark brownish-amber and produced an enthusiastic light brown head too. The aroma is tangy malt. It starts nicely tart, then into sweetish molasses-malt, not as full as I'd hoped and surprising fruity in the finish. One also gets hints of smoke, bread, nutty malts, and perhaps even some rye. The finish gets more bitter-hoppy as the glass empties. Before I forget, kudos for their artistic labels with everything so superbly done and with much class. The drawings, the choice of colors and shadows, the lovely Scottish plaid here, are remarkable. In other words, pay your graphics artist whatever she or he demands guys because you have a very fine one. It was more fruity-sweet than molasses-medicinal that I've come to love in the style. In this respect it might be more of an "old ale" or "wee heavy" than a general Scottish ale. They might even have passed it off as a barleywine and it's lack of molasses and medicinal flavors makes me feel it's either mis-classified or a real deviation from the "breed standard". They do go out of their way to excel, using ten varieties of imported malt. It clocks in at 8.5% ABV and 5O IBU. It is not perhaps cold or icy but needs to be warmer in my opinion, having tried it at various ranges. It warms and welcomes as it gets less chilly. I like it's class, smoothness, and supportive notes but found it lacking in plaid firepower. The ABV is mostly hard to detect but it comes up bolder after 20 sips and finishes and you get a vodka-ladden tap from time to time; though never early and not often. I checked some online reviews of experts I respect and several said it was smoother than expected for the style - my thoughts exactly. Maybe it's just an "Old Ale Scottish Heavy Hoppy Barleywine", a new hybrid, and just exactly what they wanted it to be. "As is" it's a 4.5 but I held it to rigid, ancient standard it would rate lower.

French Broad Wee-Heavy-er Scotch Ale
RATING: 4.5
Asheville, North Carolina
"Wee Heavy" is the traditional Scottish name for a stronger ale over in that land and this North Carolina copy shows a kilted lad carrying the world on his back. As a local beer, I tried the 22oz. on sale at Whole Foods of Raleigh for a stunning $4.99. It's 7% ABV and 24 IBU, pouring dark brownish-amber, the head cream and finely textured. Malt, faintly sweet hits the nose. The first sip is delicious caramel, a bit more heavy molasses later, a few thin moments on occasion, but the whole finish a syrup-drenched fanfare of much quality. It tastes more smoked and resinously-hopped as the mouth is saturated. The malts are good but often subtle, even if warmed to what I think is an optimum temp for brews of this color and style. The malts favor earthy styles with traditional, firm molasses and "stiff medicine" (as I call it) flashing only on occasion. It is more toasted, nutty in some sips, losing the style for a moment perhaps. It's pleasant, somewhat representative of the style (drifting to more earthy-nutty malt zones at times), and very smooth all around. To claim the higher, wee heavy badge this stuff should have had more molasses or toffee punch, and come to the table without the occasional thin and nutty note.

Grant's Scottish Ale
RATING: 5.0
Bert Grant's liquid art could be considered the best ale from American soil. His label has all the boldness of Rush Limbaugh - its the best because I like it, I said it, and I know what's best. Ditto Bert. This bright amber has a smaller head that Celtic Ale but is nearly as sweet. It has a rich hoppy complexity but not the herbal medicine flavor of MacAndrew's or Belhaven. It is far more drinkable and sugary. Worldclass reward for deserving tastebuds. This is probably the first of the American Scottish Ales on par with Europe's finest. 

Harpoon Steve Stewart's Firth of Forth Ale (100 Barrel Series)
RATING: 4.0
Boston, MA
The great house of the Harpoon are making limited supply ales of special quality, many of them with specific Session number. This is Session 22. This one is just 5.4% ABV employs Scottish malts and American hops. A young Scottish brewer named Steve Stewart in 1998 came to Boston as part of an intern program, earned honors, and later returned to his nature land to open a microbrewery. Harpoon invited him back as a Guest Brewer to create their 100 Barrel Series, combining the best of the two land's ingredients and styles. Color is dark brownish-amber, favoring a brown ale in bar light. Lace is limited but the head a rich tan. You immediately get the nip of a Scotch Ale, a refined tartness, the expected carmel coating of the tonque, and very clean never strong malt and hops throughout the presentation. It is a quality beer, not a overdose in any one thing, competent and very drinkable in quantity. It's a very fine brew but I'd turn it up a notch in flavor...one notch and no more.

Highland Oatmeal Porter u raa 4.5 9999 Asheville NC This plaid-clad amber ale proves a pleasing mystery

Loch Ness Scotch Brand Ale
RATING: 3.0
Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Made by Brasserie Le Cheval Blanc (White Horse Brewery) since 1987 this bottle-fermented Scotch Ale is medium amber with a dense, fine-textured head. First flavor notes of characteristic of the style but it seems to fade somewhat to a moderate potency. Many of our experienced Scotch ale lovers were disappointed and worse. One wrote 'I think the flavor is the only lurking mystery here'. Another 'certainly a noble effort but far to thin and offbeat to be tried again'. On the counterpoint one said 'a more approachable version of the style...it's not like medicine'. A few could not finish their samples due to 'weak yet offending notes'. This is a hard one to judge but the majority here kept the rating rather low.

MacAndrew's Scotch Ale
RATING: 5.0
Edinburgh, Scotland
The Caledonian Brewery of Edinburgh sends over wonderful 17 oz. bottles that retail for a mere $4.00 or so. Color is bright amber and head is thin. The carbonation is  overwhelming. Flavor is potent with that same medicinal-herbal palate as McEwan's Export and Belhaven Scottish Ale. We'd give a slight nod to Belhaven as being smoother but this is equally flavorful. In the Southeast the McEwan's is MUCH easier to find in shops. Lovely collectible bottle. This is one of the top standards worldwide for the style. 

Orkney Skull Splitter Ale
RATING: 4.5
Orkney, Scotland
The name made me grab, seeking a fourth bottle on one quick trip to Total Wine. So many modern beers are all about crazy, insane creatures of our species and many others. Guess image still sells the suds. Around 1000 AD, the 7th Earl of Orkney was a noted Viking or someone generally along that line. He was named Thorfinn Hausakluif, the "Skullsplitter" - kinda looks like a cut-throat sales exec I know for work. Curiously, the armed warrior on the label is carrying a spear - wouldn't an axe split more skills and fit the theme better? It pours a very dark amber, favoring a brown ale in a dark setting. The tall head is light tan, lasting long. Flavor is rather sweet, less herbal/medicinal than many of the style (hence more "accessible"), the 8.5% ABV only apparent after several sips. There are fruit esters in moderation and I found raisin the easiest one to name. It is more of a "wee heavy" by expert opinions (and those arguments will last until 3AM) and surely one rarely sees a Scotish Ale this full of caramel in the finish. One friend suggested he might cook with it, making a nice glaze or beer-amended something - this much flavor and sweetness usually makes for a fine recipe beer. It will offend the soul who likes a Scotish Ale strong, dry, and bitter. One gets nice caramel of immense strength and dominance, hominy/corn, and something that has been described as "dangerous drinkability" - so satiny, sleek, sweet, and easy-going-down it lets the 8.5 hit you like...well...a Viking axe. This fine label won Supreme Champion Winter Beer of Britain in 2001 (CAMRA) and that is a very competitive race.

Pinehurst Village Double Eagle Scotch Ale
RATING: 5.0
Aberdeen, North Carolina
The nice greyed blue-green label with an asymetrical torn-parchment style is quite appealing. Golf fans will also want to collect this cap. You would expect an authentic Scotch Ale from Aberdeen (North Carolina or otherwise) and they do not disappoint. 100-year old yeast, oatmeal, 4 malts, barley, and 3 differ- ent hops are used and it shows. Those rich toffee and chocolate tones are there but the 'undertones of berry jam...cedar...whiskey-like aroma' may not appear unless you drink a case. It is fairly smoky as well and perhaps too roasted for a few ale lovers among our gang. Not even those who preferred it leaning a different way declined to give it a perfect 5.0 score. It is easily a match for Grant's version of the same style. We'd recommend you compare them too.

Rikenjaks Old Hardhead Scottish Ale
RATING: 4.5
Jackson LA
The label is plaid with a bright woodpecker. That same label also lists a precise starting and finishing gravity to three decimel places. Is that nice or what? It is made in Jackson which is just 30 minutes from Baton Rouge. Color is brownish amber tinged red under strong light. The head is large, long-lived, and beige. It is rich and malty and broadly suggests the Scottish Style but is not so strongly herbal-medicinal as the real thing. That is not so bad as it is very drinkable and probably more appealing if one intends to consume mass quantities. A sweet candy-carmel finish is provided. Goldings hops are used for a finish effect. One reviewer noted 'very good quality if a little weaker than some SCOTS...wonderful treat if you favor a well made sweet malty beverage'.

Samuel Adams Scotch Ale
RATING: 4.0
Boston MA

Adam's latest ale is made from peat-smoked and roasted malt in what the label called 'Triple Malt'. Color is dark amber with a moderate length head. The 'smoky undertones' are admittedly 'an acquired taste' as James Koch says but the strong character of a native product seems missing. As a nice deep amber malty ale this is very enjoyable - as a Scotch Ale it is not yet to our best standards. Among US brewers the SA from Grant (Yakima) was more enjoy- able. The finish proves very smooth with a touch of sweetness and hops. The maltiness is really quite complex and the smoky elements are rather subtle compared to some. Perhaps Koch made a good choice as this smoother less med- icinal Scotch Ale would less offend a popular market. But that's not us. You?

Silly Scotch Scottish Style Ale
RATING: 5.0
Silly, Belgium
Brasserie de Silly is serious beer but yes it is fun and silly too. (One of their bottled creations is called Pink Killer made in that color with grapefruit juice in the general spiced Belgian White style). The ancient name for the local river is actually Sylle. I found this big, black-foiled, corked bottle for $9.99 at my local beer shop and could not believe this style came in Belgian or French ale form. I guess the Belgians bottle things in a way they are familiar and this was the right choice here. The bubbles in the head are rich tan and very fine in texture, color being dark amber brown. It's 7.5% ABV and 17.2 Plato. I have expected a long, Belgianesque lace but did not find it. So far so true. I let this sweet malty soup just heal my throat and mind and found it just what I needed after reviewing some rather shady, canned malt lagers and one overpriced micro-crap label. It's outstanding, smooth but never weak, just the right amount of molasses at mid note and tartness in the finish. An 1850 brewery does not cross the seas to do another style without much trial and study. Their work shows when in 1947 they revived their Grisette, Saison, and Scottish styles; the time and effort shows in the product. Their website says it offers "a finely wooded nose hinting at hazelnut, and is therefore distinct from traditional British scotches". Now that they mention it - yes. The "more rounded taste" will "naturally seduce you". True and triple true. But claiming to improve a long-held, traditional style is the stuff of ancient wars and these days European Community legal battles. I rather like that Bordeaux-style wine from Kosovo, much smoother and fruity and improved over the ancient, traditional style. How would that work? Anyhow, I'm loving my big bottle Silly SCOTTISH ale and that's enough to sooth everything tonight.

Tomcat Lionheart Scottish Ale
RATING: 3.5
Raleigh NC

Brewer Thom Tomlinson of Tomcat Brewing tells us on each label that 'I'll gladly burn my kilt' it he hasn't made the best Scottish Ale around. Sorry Thom but you should have offered to burn your Indian hunting jacket instead; and put the offer on your IPA. The color is dark copper amber (darker than the IPA and Pale Ale) and the head is enduring. The flavor has the correct tangy carmel notes and nippy hops but its about 'two notches' too thin on our scale of correct flavor. That means the potential is there. I suppose if you would like your Scottish Ales less potent this might just hit the spot. We still prefer Grant's or MacAndrews as ideals in this style. High marks go for the lovely lion photo on the label. Easy drinking ale but still needs work.

Younger's Tartan Special
RATING: 4.5
Edinburgh, Scotland

This product of Edinburgh has all the flavor and charm of good Scotch Ale. It is a nice carmel-hops nips that no other style can imitate. Color is golden amber with a moderately large off white head. It quite pleasant but perhaps not as deep or complex as other of this style. At the $8.77 price we were a bit disappointed now that respectable American-made Scotch or Scottish Ales exist. Grant's and Pinehurst Village would too such choices. MacAndrew's is another though perhaps without the American's price advantage.

Copyright 2000. TCR Press. All Rights Reserved.

LAGER - AMBER

 Anchor Steam Beer    u    rla    4.0    13        San Francisco CA    This San Francisco beer uses a process 'like no other in the world' but    fashion a medium amber beer with a full 'creamy' head. This 'all barley    malt' taste is complex but is more crisp and less heavy than most other    ambers. While this limited production beer is quite pleasant at $9 a pack    we found a semi-bitter aftertaste to be unacceptable. Lager flavor is most    apparent and it was surprisingly like Simpatico Lager in fact. Northern Brewer    hops are used. Carbonation is steady. Reviewers noted 'wonderful process but    the proof is in the flavor...I found it second rate though acceptable' and    'lager yeast flavor with mere hints of citrus fruit and a dry finish'. The    label is one of the best every designed. Unique but still deficient.
Anheuser-Busch Special Winter Brew 1996    u    rla    3.5    824        St. Louis MO    This amber beverage is A-B's attempt once more to reach microbrewish respect-    ability under their own name; and what WAS genuinely a reputable for fine brews    AT ONE TIME. This seasonal is dark amber and is best described as being a SEMI-    SWEET MALTY LAGER in the holiday traditions. The label is lovely artwork with    both color and detail near to perfection. The brew sadly is far less sophisti-    cated though there is some hops to balance things. Had diverse malts (or even    more of those chosen) been used and perhaps brewed longer it might have been a    classic. Potential exists still. Unfortunately the Christmas (or more correctly    Holiday) brews are numerous and provide vastly superior competition. For the    price it is okay but as a seasonal treat you might check others.

Blue Point Toasted Lager
RATING: 4.5
Patchogue, New York
The name did not impress me a first but less than half a bottle into these golden-amber lager I became engrossed and alert. There is a lightness at first sip, a bit of nutty malt and not a hop to wrap around a single tastebud. But as sip followed sip and gulp above gulp, the roasty, toasty malt flavors came to me in full excellence. The Long Island lager is very drinkable and one of my trusted friends still that was a big flaw. I felt the subtle toasted flavors were intentional and defined well enough for this rating. It is horrible warm so make it cold and have at least two so the malt saturates to full value. In a very crowded world of American amber lagers, this one is very European in tone and a pleasant experience.

Blue Ridge Amber Lager    u    rla    3.5    805        Frederick MD    Using 'all American' ingredients including two kinds of Noble hops, they have    set out to make a Vienna style of lager. They have the 'soft malt' down about    right but the 'spicy hops' never appears for us. The beer clearly has the    correct ingredients in mind but fails to deliver on strength and complexity.    It is quite drinkable and smooth but the finish is too thin for most beer    lovers we would suggest. It is not bad but neither is it enough of a very good    thing - hops. If marketed as an AMBER LIGHT it would reign with some of the    best but in the defined class it fails. Reviewers noted 'was stopped abruptly    with a weak perhaps sour finish...[the] experience was ruined' and 'good smooth    malt with subtle hops...needs more depth'. Hard to recommend at $8.00.
Brasal Special Amber Lager    u    rla    5.0    840    BEST AMBER LAGER FALL 1996    Lasalle (Montreal) Quebec    This lager starts out with a big handicap: drinker's attitude. One pays at    least $7-8 for just FOUR bottles; less generous 11.5 oz. ones to be precise. In    its favor you see the 1994 Brewmaster's Best Award seal. The brewery is known as    Brasserie Brasal and prefers to name their town as Lasalle. A friendlier    pup than usual (a well-painted Husky) graces the pleasing label. A rich sweet    aroma confirms one's investment may be solid. Flavor is simply wonderful with    carmel and roasted malt notes exploding like a wild symphony. A sweet carmel    nature is similar to some Big Rock products from the same land; they also carry    a hefty price down here. It is truly sumptuous CANDY BEER of the finest kind    and made to ideal standards. It is worth the price and more. A true classic.
Brick Waterloo Dark Lager        rla           

Calgary Amber Lager

3.0 58 This Molson product uses 'world famous Bonanza Barley Malt' for its flavor. It is very bubbly and has a nice amber color (very dark golden). It has a sharp bite that is merely a transitional tartness on the tongue. The taste is more unique than highly pleasant but it does not offend in any way. It is complex but not the kind of complexity that greatly impresses. We have seen it in large 740ml cans and bottles. Stampede Brand since 1892.                                             
Dark Horse Amber Lager    u    rla    5.0    924            This product of VA and VA Brewing Co is mostly sold around that state but    is a choice of DC and MD beer lovers. The work of German-born Wolfgang Roth    won solid gold at the Great American Beer Festival and it meets 1516 purity    laws too! As amber lagers go it is complex and earns high marks for aroma    and malt qualities. It might be regarded as the best of Old World traditional    and New World ingrediants. We hope they make enough for the whole country.                
El Toro Amber Lager    u    rla    5.0    711        Durham NC    The labels proclaims 'there's a little bull in every bottle'. That is better    than bull ON the label we figure. This is made by Weeping Radish for the minor    league baseball team of 'Bull Durham' movie fame. It also has local Southeast    distribution. Color is is dark red amber with a tan head. Nose is sweet malt.    Flavor is a fest-like sweet and deep treat of malt with a modest hops balance.    Reviewers noted 'substantial and wonderful...could easily be called a BROWN ALE    for all its richness' and 'nothing wrong with it all...surely one of the best    beers served in any ballpark anywhere'. This wonderful products follows their    pleasant Christmas 1995 brew of equal excellence. Their regular Fest did not    impress us as well in several tastings. This one is a sure winner.


First Reserve Lager 

RATING: 5.0    691    BEST AMBER LAGER FALL 1995    Winston-Salem NC    Winston-Salem has long been the home of addicting products of the smokable sort.    The Flagstone Brewery of that city now wants a liquid of equal appeal - although    much more healthy. An 1860's southern recipe is used. Unusually it contains    dark cane mill molasses, carmel malt, and Liberty hops. Color is bright amber    and the head is large and ivory-tinted. Your first sip (if not sniff) rings out    with a central and powerful theme: H O P S. Big hops. Liberty hops can do that.    As the molasses portion suggests it is a bit sweet but never sugary like holiday    lagers of similar color. It is so fruity-hoppy one is tempted to judge it with    pale and amber ales. It is certainly a good match for Adam's Boston Lager in    your taste tests. Collectible photo cap. Highly recommended. Good price so far.

Fort Collins Z Lager
RATING: 3.5
Fort Collins, Colorado
This is one of the brighest ambers on record here, some tints of red adding much to it under the creamy substantial head. Brewed as a "rauchbier" of the 1550's Bamburg style from Germany, smoke flavors come from malt dried over beechwood fires. The smoke is reserved enough to be appealing but the finish has some odd notes that need to be cleaned up. Slight caramel malts come in the background and it finishes nice, dry, and hoppy. It is strong enough to please most beer lovers but will not overwhelm a subtle sauce at dinner. That said, no chef on earth wants his patrons sipping smoke, hops, and malt before his perfect dish - although somehow they accept the 912 chemicals known in the wine world! I found it a couple notches short of where it needs to be to stand on it's own. A good fettucine would save it but that's not the point here. I rate beer on it's own and this one needs some tuning.

Harpoon Spring Maibock    u    rla    4.5    1100        Boston MA    This spring bock or maibock is richly amber colored with a substantial    cream-colored head. Flavor is a rounded balance of lightly bitter American    hops and roasted malts. Indeed there is enough assertiveness in the hops    department to make this resemble many AMERICAN PALE ALES. There is also    enough of fruit-like flavor to place this with the ale category though    traditionally a bock is strong lager. Regardless of flavor this is certainly    a strong brew and likely to please many a hop addict. However some    reduction in rating occurs due to some flat, dry notes in the finish and what    some reviewers called 'excessive bitterness'. In truth, a few perfect 5.0    scores were recorded. Recommended unless you expect the German maibock theme.
Herman Joseph's Premium Beer (Coors)    u    rla    3.0    720        Golden CO    This Coor's 'premium' comes in 650ml bottles for about $1.29 or so. Color is    very pale amber or dark amber-gold if you will. The head is ivory and    lasting. Chinook hops and slow-roasted Moravian malt is used. It has more flavor    than a regular Coors but compared to their Winterfest it is very thin. At this    bargain price range it is a decent alternative to malt liquors if one like that    sort of thing - or one is short of cash. It comes off as a vaguely hopped    beer with a semi-sweet finish. There's a unique nip to it and that may the    Chinook hops which are new to us. Reviewers noted 'I'd describe as a value but    not something I'd try regularly' and 'less flavor than the color would suggest    but at this price any flavor is welcome...'. Budget recommendation only.
Jack Daniels Amber Lager±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±    u    rla    3.5    536        Cincinatti OH/Lynchburg TN    Although known for much stronger amber beverages, the Daniel's people are    once again renewing the family tradition of an amber lager that started back    in 1866. You'll get a batch from either Cincinnati or Lynchburg TN under a    familiar black, gold, and white style of packaging. The 'slow brew' and    'small batch' beer uses Cluster and Tettnang hops with a lager yeast for    'peak flavor and clarity'. The first taste suggests a rather ordinary 3    bottle amber that we see too much of these days. The finish is better with    some curious hops detail to perk up the tastebuds. We doubt this brew will    win many awards and at a $7.00 price there are better values in amber ales.    If very cold it can please but below 45 it becomes dull and mediocre.
Leinenkugel's Bock    u    rla    4.5    719        Chippewa Falls WI    This version of the popular Leinie's uses roasted carmel malt for the flavor    and color of the German BOCK style; essentially a MALTY LAGER. It is moderate    malt (ie. a SINGLE BOCK) and has a full-sweet finish. It is overall like a    mid-strength Oktoberfest beer. The head is foamy and lasting. It is so over-    whelmingly sweet it might also pass for a Christmas or Holiday beer too. Our    reviewers noted 'mid malt (and I prefer that to overdoses unless a full stout)..    a tad too syrupy for my taste' and 'nice carmel malt notes...clearly the very    best of their several [lines] I've tried to date'. Most of us agreed it was    their best effort so. It is miles ahead of their WINTER LAGER might have    otherwise had a similar name.

Lift Bridge Amber Lager        rla    

Magic Hat Vinyl Lager
RATING: 4.0
South Burlington, Vermont
I've gone out of my way to avoid humping websites in this book but here is a noble exception. The movie at http://www.magichat.net/vinyl/ is so horrible it's actually a bit fun. There's even a YouTube version. This curious 5.1% amber fluid has a stiff golden-ivory head, nose being faintly sweet and of malt in general. Vinyl, a wigged doll made of green vinyl, "sails in on her shining wings...a season-shifter, bursting from her cocoon to sing the ancient song of vernal yearning and to summon spring's sweet green return". Sounds like action figure lust to me. "Her thirsts are shared by all". Yea, I'll bet she's popular for her spring yearning, spreading wings, and long flexible limbs among the G.I. Joes and those pro wrestling plastic characters. She is quite the shiny, innocent blonde nymph after all; kinda of a barely legal-looking lass my young Obi-wan Issue 4.2 advised me. Him, Vinyl, and Clegg Holdfast one night...let's just say things lots of bits melted and colors were exchanged. Back to the beverage: Malts used are pale, crystal, Munich, and Victory. Hops are Northern Brewer. They aimed for some sweetness with a hoppy touch, "fermented at the low end of ale fermentation temperatures" but using lager yeast. The brew comes down to whether you like a semi-sweet malt (and not a overly punched Fest lager) with a dose of hops that is subtle but still appreciated. I like it some, still it's very Ok-festy and for all the jokes, the marketing is still just a gimmick and will never affect my ratings.

Portland Lager    u    rla    5.0    284        Utica NY    Like Dock Street Philadelphia this amber darkish lager is 'lively' and    licensed for Utica NY production. One's first impression it that it is un-    usually fruity for a lager - a characteristic more common with ale yeast. At one    time the label read: 'a great solution to the beer doldrums' and that is so    true. Reviewers commented that 'it is clearly one of the best lagers in the    world, American or otherwise' and 'there are few beers as satisfying and gen-    uinely flawless'. A panelist remarked that the only imperfection was in    image: 'Lighthouse Preservation Society' logo and photo from a beer made    hundreds of miles from lighthouses in rural upstate New York; never mind    the distance from Portland. Very seductive beer and a pleasure to yield.
Rhino Chasers Dark Roasted Lager    u    rla    4.0    769        St. Paul MN    This companion to the Peach Honey Wheat is a dark reddish-amber with a lasting    beige head of fine-textured foam. You first notice the full malty dose but it's    no double bock to be certain! We prefer to class it with AMBER LAGERS rather    than as a SINGLE BOCK or GERMAN DARK; though a few so-called GERMAN DARKS are    no more rich. There is enough hops bitterness (the good kind) to add complexity    and class. Reviewers remarked 'malt lovers delight...but never overbearing' and    'superb presentation [color and head]. Mid-strength maltiness is well made to    be smooth yet substantial'. If you like malt but refrain from potent stouts    and double/triple bocks this may be your match. We certainly think it's as well    crafted as many of Europe's malty lagers. Weak for some - ideal for others.

Saint Michaelsberg Kellerbier
RATING: 4.0
Bamberg, Germany
Kellerbiers are unfiltered German lagers that are very old and clouded with yeast. You get some of the deep, rich, earthy malts of a German dark but not the full-blown thump of a traditional German dark lager. The 4.9% ABV is surely nothing special. I liked the malt, must, faint caramels receding to a dry finish, and yet it presented some shaky, wavering and weak themes from mid to late notes. Perle and Hallertauer Magnum hops are used with Pilsener and Vienna Malts for this effect. As malty liquid feasts go, I'd favor it served rather cold and close to 40 deg. F.

Sierra Nevada Pale Bock 1992    u    rla    5.0    353            This bottom-fermented beer is of the 'maibock' type (top quality flavorful    beer made in Germany to celebrate May/Spring). It is bright semi-cloudy    gold with hints of amber and a very bubbly head. It is smooth with rich hops    glavor that is 1/2 the 'floweriness' of Sam Adams Boston Lager. It arrives in    most stores in June and quickly sells out. This limited edition beer is much    to be prized. There is nothing quite like it in stores. Very finely crafted.                

Simpatico Amber    u    rla    4.0    501        Dubuque IA    There has to be something wrong with NAFTA when a decent Mexican brand beer    is now made in Dubuque Iowa! This bright amber has nice carbonation and a    head with some duration. Unlike some ambers which have a rich hop punch this    one has major malt elements and only faint hops authority. There are some    much darker American and German darks with a similar flavor. Like some malty    amber beers (the LIGHT DARKS if you will) this has a nice aroma that hits    you a second or two before the first sip. We must give very high marks to    the black painted label with ornate orange and gold artwork - in the style of    some pricey Champagne brands. There aren't too many UPC barcodes done in    orange paint! Overall the flavor is decent but not deep enough for $6-7.


Tucher Bajuvator Doppelbock    g    rla    5.0    864    BEST DOUBLE BOCK SPRING 1997    Nurnberg    This rich dark German double bock is richly malty as expected and on the sweet    side. It is not overly sugary and as one reviewer phrased it: 'I'd much prefer    this to the average Oktoberfest beers'. Color is dark amber and the beige head    is very long lasting. The malt aroma is one of the most sumptuous imaginable. It    is a thoroughly well-made and refined beer and frankly we know of no US    microbrewery bottling anything like it; even Sam Adams is a very different    flavor and effect. Panalists here remarked it was 'a malty delight...something    about it makes you just think 'now this is true beer' and 'pungent, earthy,    sophisticated...full without being filling'. For the newer beer lover we have    a general rule to pass on: if you see an -ator suffix, buy it!
Wainwright's Black Jack    u    rla    3.5    762        Pittsburgh PA    The 1891 legend tells how J.J. Wainwright won an old family recipe for a BLACK    AND TAN in a card game. Today the Pittsburgh company uses a dark porter and a    light Pils to make the brew. Color is bright amber red; actually one of the    brightest red lagers around. Head is lasting and off white. It tastes a bit    odd but not so strange after two or three! The exact malt flavor we note is    similar to one tasted with several Aass brews. It is a very earthy, corn-tasting    malt that reminds more of soup than beer; some dark beers are known as    'brothy' in the literature. If very cold it is nice but unlike a pure porter    this one is poor tasting if room temperature. At $6.75 a pack it is on the lower    side of things. Reviews were mixed. You love it or you hate it. Please write!

Acrobräu Dark Lager
RATING: 4.0
German


LAGER - AMBER 

Stoudt Smooth Hoperator
RATING: 5.0
Adamstown, Pennsylvania
This is an American Pale Ale by most quick opinions but it's actually a bottom-fermented lager loaded with American hops and German malts. The color is APA-like amber, the hops rich but very smooth presented. The website calls it an "American-style Doppelbock" which amounts to a hoppy take on the old style but no rich, dark brown malt colors. They believe it to be "the first high gravity lager brewed with German malts and American hops", the later being Summit and Amarillo. ABV is 7.2% and there is something else unique about it. Name me another beer with an anthopomorphic goat on the label, dressed up with dark shades, lavender shirt, and a dark jacket winking at us like bar tarts at 1:59 AM. He's not only horny (literally) but has a bad toupee patch. In the final analysis, I think this style is worth exploring and developing moe. I'm getting my beloved American Pale Ale fix but with something lagery, delicate, and more relaxed and gentle in the finish. I've blended APA and IPA beers to lagers many times and not gotten exactly this approach - though I've come close. Beer blending is easier perhaps but having a official name, place, and time for the product that is easily reproduced is better yet. This is no novelty but a substyle or new style we need to learn more about. I will sign up for every class this prof puts in the catalog!

Tommyknocker Ornery Amber Lager
RATING: 5.0
Idaho Springs, Colorado
The crazy tommyknockers are at work on the label tying boot laces and getting up to other kinds of mischief. A blend of European hops and lightly roasted malts are used to produce this tea-colored beverage of superior quality and appeal. It is moderately-full sweet (6-7 on a scale of 10) and is an absolutely delightful and envigorating. The choices of hops are completely on target for this hop tea is smooth but with a firm nip in the finish, especially after the first bottle. The well-judged sweetness approximates a mild tea in fact and one gets parallels between the two brewed beverages. I think this is the finest of their products I've tried to date (February 2010) and I one I must seek out again. This is one very superior recipe and the execution counts of course and is delivered to perfection. I am not usually fond of the world terrific but it seems to fit better than anything else before me at thesaurus.com

LAGER - DARK 

 Eisbocks and doppelbocks (double bochs) tend to dominate this group 

Acrobräu Dark Lager
RATING: 4.0
Germany
I'm not sure who The Count's Brewery is but it's all around this neat navy, gold, and black label. Great presentation marks to start. For a Bavarian dark it pours more on the dark amber side that I'd expected. No lace, large head for a time. It is nicely tart when cold and sips a very clean blend of malt and hops, favoring the former of course. More sips and then more left us wondering if any sophistication and special notes might appear. Zero. It's simply a clean rendition of a dark lager, not clever or indulgent or idiosyncratic in any way. If Coors made a genuinely flavorful amber they might go with this very direct approach to flavor. You get one blended hop-malt note - take it or leave it. I'm not saying it should sit with the bargain darks in the supermarket but one is very close in terms of quality.

Ayinger Altbairisch Dunkel (Dark)
RATING: 4.5
Aying, Germany
This beer has that reddish-brown glow and big foamy head that marks so many fine German dark brews. One's first sip of this label gives a very deep and complex malt effect. It will impress the dark beer lover unless you demand the most full and densely opaque stouts on earth. It has enough of a red glow to be showy in a glass and when the flavor quality is there, one cannot go wrong. Reviewers remarked 'rich classic German Alt style and very well made' and 'very recommendable but serving temperature seems very important'; many dark beers seem best when not very cold nor luke warm. 50 deg. F. is often right. Once again: Ayinger has the best looking cap around - it's a cute little painting. Nice for blending with their Jahrhundert-Helles (Pils). This is a lower ABV version of Celebrator suited for "max 5%" regions.

Ayinger Celebrator Doppelbock
RATING: 4.5
Aying, Germany
The two dancing rams on the label seem to be fighting over a tall 100 gallon glass of this dark, lusty beverage. The 6.7% is nice but again the small 330ml bottle disturbs my sense of worth. Color is cola dark with a giant khaki-toned head and long lace. It is a medium-sweet malty treat trailing off with drier notes. This is some dark drinkers absolute gold standard, the benchmark against which other things are judged. Others turn to Spaten Optimator while I tend to like Weinstephaner Dark. Flavor is crisp, clean, non-muddy, and unmuddled. For the style it is nearly perfect but I find a lack of complex finish worthy of a single half bottle deduction. Many of you would like to string me up from the nearest tree for saying so. Let's fight over one of the those giant 100 gallon glasses instead.

Becks Dark
RATING: 5.0
While we felt regular Beck's was not as good as some regular German beers this dark variant is worldclass in every respect. The taste is full with a rich broth-like substance. The color is a light rootbeer brown. It is a finer dark in our opinion than either DAB or Dortmunder Union darks - with the later is shares a brothy aftertaste. 

Bell's Consecrator Doppelbock
RATING: 4.0
Comstock, Michigan
The very simple, artfully speckled brown and white label shows two rams about to give each a head butt. Actually, it's probably just a mirror image from a very skilled aritst. ABV is 8% and that's no normal dark microbrew from the US or anywhere speaking funny with long words. Old-world yeast is used. The stuff is bottle-conditioned but that's not code for yeasty clouds as in the dark Belgian styles of ale. Thus their "decant to serve" is a bit curious. What are we carefully decanting here? Malty, slightly hopped, nicely fermented water? Consecrator pours bright brownish-amber to reddish-amber, very strong lace, creamy head, and a nose of sweet malt. It's worse cold and needs to approach 45-50 deg. F. in my not so humble opinion. It's a thursday after all...I'm more humble on Sundays with all that preacher talk, parting with cash passed in plates hauled by millionaire car dealer-deacons, and the dumb brown suit my wife bought me. I'm more comfortable with the Lord's good blessings in my own domain and !in terms of the FOUR COMMANDMENTS: barley, hops, yeast, and water. Damn! That lace still hasn't stopped and that impresses. $11.95 a six is looking a bit better now. It's starts tart, surprisingly weak, faint hops, and a complex but still moderate concentration of malty goodness. There is little of the rightfully expected  -ATOR suffix potency in terms of comforting, earthy malts or powerful roasted flavors. This beer is subtle. The question comes to bear: is this weak, phony subtle or gentle, magical moderation? I'm inclined to think this tenuous and very pleasant brew is a single bock though supercharged with extra ethanol. I would rather have more malt and more blended varieties of such than this particular take. It's good cool (not cold) and warmed a bit but it's not a double by any means by any standard in this country or the old one. It's a fine beer and I know I claim judge without reference to name to claimed style - but we need more thrusting horn and less marketing here. By the name or any other standard, we need bigger or more horns made of malt.


Crystal Diplomat Dark
RATING: 4.0
Ceske Budejovice
This Budejovice is for you. Sampson Brewery of the Czech Republic has a real winner here. The ample carbonation and thick pint bottles make it resemble a German dark wheat until you taste it. It is really more of a dark amber in than a true brown beer. It is rather sweet and malty with a nice degree of complexity. It is broadly in the style of a sugary Oktoberfest beer. One wonders why Coors could not do as well in our country with so much more resources and peace than the Czech Republic. In fact it is as fine as any Holiday/Christmas beer we've tried this December 1994 with the exception of Anchor Our Special Ale and Sierra Nevada Celebration. It is smooth and flavorful with no compromise in either department.

Crystal Rock Double Bock d
DAB Traditional Dark g d 4.0 0 Dortmunder Actien-Brauerei (DAB) is made in Dortmund and should not be confused with Dortmunder Union brand of the same city. This dark is really a dark amber or light stout in both color and flavor. It is very flavorful but not rich and potent like true stouts or extra stouts. We found it more flavorful when not too cold. It is perhaps better than Heineken Dark and a a near tie to St. Pauli Dark. It might get 5 bottles but is a touch bitter.

Dinkel Acker Dark g d 4.0 94 This product of Stuttgart is actually dark amber and forms a head of very large but short-lived bubbles. It pleasant and potent at first but the flavor trails off to a semi-dry finish. It is just a small margin from being a 5 bottle beer but there are so many that are better. Like Heineken Dark it is really SEMI-DARK at best and may not satisfy one's taste for a dark beer as will so many other labels. Competant but less satisfying.

Dixie Blackened Voodoo Lager u d 5.0 98 This product of New Orleans is dark reddish brown and of medium-duration head. Using 5 malts and cypress tanks for aging this beer overflows with malt flavor. It finishes clean and dry when cold but we felt the malt flavor came out best when around 50-52 degrees F. If available we'd prefer the richer Samuel Adam's Double Bock in this AMERICAN DARK MALT LAGER subclass. If your tastes run towards a very malty beer with a crisp finish this one could be perfect. 

Dock Street Illuminator Bock
RATING: 5.0
Utica, NY/Philadephia, PA
Out of Phily and Utica comes this bright and refreshing beer with dark amber color and never-ending carbonation. It is lively and sweet with a full depth hops. Unlike many premium SWEET AMBER BOCKS the sweetness is not used to cover weak flavor - Hallertau & Tettnang are so abundant. Bottom-fermented in the Einbeck style this beer stands out in a crowded amber field. 'Luscious' as the label suggests is an apt adjective. It is unique and to be treasured. One of the more interesting and refined American bocks though not always easy to find.

Dock Street Philadelphia u raa 4.0 103 This amber beer is made in Utica NY and uses a 17th century process perfected in Philadelphia and still served at Dock Street Brewery. This 'hand crafted' beer uses Cascade hops but sells for about $7/6 bottles. We found it very pungent and flavorful. While amber colored (not brown) it has a
stout taste without any doubt. It is stronger than John Courage Amber but the two clearly intermediate to dark beer. Portland Lager is similar but the better of the two. 

Dortmunder Union Dark
RATING: 4.0
Dortmund, Germany
The almost glowing GREEN foil label with bright red letters grabs ones attention as does the gold crest. This dark variant of a truly worldclass label is a deep reddish brown color and an enthusiastic full head of bubbles. Served very cold it proved a touch sharp and heavy while very flavorful. But given a mere chill or just above room temperature it proved more drinkable. It is quite satisfying but the aftertaste is almost like a full beefy broth. 

Flying Dog Schwarz Smoked Double Lager
RATING: 4.5
Frederick, Maryland
I'd not expected FD to do high-falutin' champagne-corked bottles with foiled labels and Belgium-style prices. I guess they should and this is proof. The label lost me when they compared David Hasselhof to the popularity of Schwarz beer and something about Thuringia. It pours a truly opaque dark brown, head small but medium brown, malty, and as pungent as a house freshly reduced to charcoal and chimneys with the dude winding up their hoses before us. It is surprising easy drinking for a smoked, dark lager, not overwhelming as some Rauschbiers and certainly darker than some of those. It's 7.8% ABV and for smoothness you almost think they added liquid smoke to a weak German dark - and I mean that in the kindest sense not suggesting their formula! Smoke and malt. Malt and smoke. No hops to speak of though there are faint bitter finish notes by the last glass of three or more. A little late sweetness keeps if from being too dry and dull. 

This is a good blending beer if you want to add a primo smoky quality to something else and only need 1/3 to 1/2 a glass to get that effect. I'm sure blending was not their goal but more than a single glass of this gem is hard to beer; and I mean that kindly. I like it very much, though I am suspicious the smoke comes from a bottle and not fresh alder branches, and like Hasselhof and talking Trans-Ams a little goes a VERY LONG WAY. As far  as Bay Watch scenes with a different type of full-bodied, robust, smokin' character...mass quantities are justified. Their "no shit" website sucks (as of April 2009) and it crashed on three computers I tried, varying from typical user to one with every update Microsoft can toss down the daily upgrade pipe. A word to brew webmasters: we don't want flying stuff, heads that bubble before us (we might have that effect in real life!), and other fancy expensive programming crap. Just give us beer data for every known label they offer, cool merchandise, and a nice history of the company - and the faster the better. No one has ever purchased a beer because of a cool script on their website. Sorry dudes. Drink less and deliver data with no fuss and worldclass speed. Form must always FOLLOW function and convenience - sorry you missed that design class due to wicked bad 'shrums. Just take our word for it.

Fort Collins The Kidd Lager


RATING: 4.5
Fort Collins, Colorado
This "dark and intriquing" dark lager is made with chocolate and carmel malts added to Tettnang hops from the old country. It pours out very dark reddish-brown, a degree or two from opaque. The head is large-bubbled, falling to moderate levels, and a rich tan. The malt aroma is very pleasant and sweetness is medium-high (7 of 10 sugar points). The label calls the hop-altered finish "reminiscent of a smoking gun" and I suppose it could be if I had more imagination and they sent me 14 more bottles. It's got a sophisticated appeal, well rounded, a balance that never tips toward excess, and needs to be a bit cold for best effect.
Gordon Biersch Märzen Auburn Lager
RATING: 4.5
San Jose, California
I immediately came to like Gordon when I first read the package: "Never trust a skinny brewer". That's a very apt, inciteful variant of "never trust a skinny chef"; unless of course they're all marathon runners in their 20 hours of spare time each time each day or highly functional meth addicts-geniuses. The name "auburn lager" is a nice touch too, usually being dark or amber with the more predictable tank factories. It's 5.7% ABV, a tad above some popular offerings, it pours mid-amber, close enough to auburn to count. I'm troubled by their claim of "smooth" - which in brewerspeak is often code for we can't afford to give you too much malt, hops, or at least the beast forms of such.

For me it's a very yummy, earthy feast of malts, corny if very warm, brighter and butterscotched when cold, gentle and smooth actually without the painful finish of so many "smooth" dark lagers which are horrid, thin, and mediocre. The malts are moderate (not too full), augmented with various temp-dependent corn/butter/grain flavors, semi-sweet, some caramel (not alot), never a dropout in any flavor passage, and lovely and buttery at times. "Smooth" and "drinkable" are not an admission of weakness in this bottle. It delivers! It's best a tad warm and you will get ten different ratings with 10 different temps. It is very slick, creamy, never offending or metallic. In a strange way it's very highly admirable and competent for being a layered malty beer with nothing too special nor ever wrong about it. It might be the Honda of amber lagers - nothing to write home about, nothing startling, as reliable as the sun, no flaws, no faults, steady, yet neither creative or really new, generically perfect in boring formulaic ways; evaluation solid but not breathtaking. There is a feeble case for a low rating (too dry, too weak, no hops, not sweet enough) but for an American brewer going stealthy and under the "dark-lager radar" might in fact be a very generous compliment in the finish analysis. I'd bet in a blind taste test many Europeans would place it with one of several German firms of some note and laud it as such. I enjoy it, it's a very solid Xerox of a German dark lager, better than most US copies. If you should hate the product and this authentic style then email your complaint 500 years ago to my 19th Great-Grandfather and CC: your mom with the subject line: "Verpiss Dich".

Gosser Dark (Stiftbrau)
RATING: 4.0
Steirische Brauindustrie AG provides 'Austria's Famous Dark Beer' that has a dark reddish-brown color. The first taste is sweet and rich - almost like pleasant prune juice. The mid and later flavors are more like a lighter dark of German origin. It is very pleasant but lacks the complexity and depth of flavor one expects in a European dark. The lasting brown head is perfect. 

Grolsch Premium Dark h d 5.0 144 This dark amber beer takes the excellence of a top beer and adds a richer stronger taste. It is not extra or triple stout nor is it really 'ruby' as described on the label. It is somewhat like DAB Dark but far less bitter. It is one of the top dark ambers or light stouts available. Very sadly we find that few stores carrying Grolsch offer this refined variant. Either cold or near room temperature it is rich but never overpowering.

Heineken Special Dark h d 3.0 154 This is one of the best known darks in American grocery stores and is the only dark one finds in some smaller stores. It is full and potent in its red-tinted rootbeer color. While satisfying we found a half dozen other darks that are more pleasant. It is unquestionably a high quality product but like most darks it can be too heavy with some meals. While strong it lacks the complexity and wine-like detail of nearly all other darks. 

Hirschbrau Hoss Holzar-Bier
RATING: 4.5
Sonthofen, Germany
This is the dark stuff with the big green man chopping wood on the label - the following similar product has the two beasties locking horns. Background on this suggests this is from an old Allgau recipe and made into the Holzar style drank primarily in the winter; hence the snowy scene on the label. It pours dark amber and the nose is sugary malt on the order of pancake syrup. Head is dark cream, small but lasting. Gladly the flavor is not so sweet! Those earthy or "corny" malt flavors are wonderfully rich and the sweetness is perhaps 7-8 on a 10 scale. ABV is 5.2% and that is different from their Doppel-hirsch described below. This is the sweeter of the two, also. It is fairly simplistic in hitting the strong sweet, toasty malt theme like a electronic drum machine. There is some hops to elevate the complexity but not much. There is a bit of fruit, dark fruit including raisins or figs if one demands name for them.

Hirschbrau Hoss Doppel-hirsch Bavarian Doppelbock
RATING: 5.0
Sonthofen, Germany
Der Hirschbrau dates back more than 350 years (1657) and utilizes male deer or elk as their logo. This double dose shows too large males dueling with horns locked on the lovely golden and purple label. It comes with recloseable, Grolcsh-like "recap" hardware, adding to the price and keeping it fresh I suppose. Flavor is a very smooth, toasty malt, moderately sweet at some points, more so at others, very satisfying but stealthfully gentle on the way down. It is much fuller a beer than it appears; which is often a sign of a very high attainment in brewing arts. For a 7.2% ABV product, the soothing and fluent dispensation of flavors is remarkable advanced. The color is surprising pale, a dark amber-brown and not typical of usually dant, dark German products of any style. The easy carmel delights are not met with hops to balance it as far as I can tell. Once the reasonably sweetened malt subsides, there is ample dry bitterness in the finish but I believe the high ethanol content is mostly the factor there. This beer is exquisitely delicious, a real treat, a tad expensive but well worth the experience as many times as one can find it. I do not find it around enough and always grab one or two for beer tastings and parties. Some friends of mine felt is too strong in the ABV, others just a LITTLE too syrupy, and others found some thin, odd notes at mid palate or later; even the worst placed it 4.5 and I being the editor get to put down my opinion and it's fiver to me.

Hofbrau Bavaria Dark Reserve
RATING: 5.0
Germany
From Ernste Kulmbacher comes this very dark amber brew with an enthusiastic head of moderate duration. It carries some of the brothy depth one expects in German darks but finishes more light than many. It is best compared to darks from Becks, Kropf, DAB, Dortmunder, St. Pauli, and Dinkel Acker. It is smoother and thinner than Becks but still has sufficient flavor to charm. As a good compromise it earns 5 bottles but understand it is no potent dark. 

Hofstetten Granitboch
RATING: 4.5
St. Martin, Austria
I spent about ten minutes with 5x and 10x hand lens trying to figure out the faint purple script on the label and whether I was reading English or German or something else. It turns out this dark amber-brown bier is fermented in a 200 year old trough - not my idea of a marketing point but European are different perhaps in their love of old troughs. The 7.3% ABV is nice, the head light beige, and lasting. Flavor is a malt-lovers wet dream, simmering and glowing from first note to last with bread, caramel, hominy, and tangy hops. It is semi-sweet overall and no generic European dark lager. I could drink it all day and almost did but I'd still consider it an "experience beer" rather than a regular purchase - even if one can find it after next month - which I doubt! Something  about "Seit 1229" defies my explanation.


Isenbeck Premium Dark Lager g d 3.5 912 Paderborn Since 1769 this firm (not to be confused with the Becks) has made beer in Germany. Color is medium amber brown with a deep beige head. It is not rich and brothy like some German Darks (Becks for example) nor is it sweet and malty like Fest selections. We might describe it simply as a richer lager - and if you were not allowed to see the color you'd say just that. It is not as roasted in malt flavors as the color might suggest. It is very drinkable and refined but for the beer enthusiast there is not much to prefer it over so many other choices from that land or ours. One reviewer said 'there is nothing wrong with it...nor is there anything VERY right either!'. Many people who tried it expressed such indifference. It is not typical of the German dark styles.

Kaiserdom Alt Rubin (Dark)
RATING: 5.0
Bamburg, Germany
The Burgerbrau Brewery of Bamberg produces this hard-to-find beer of medium clear brown color and a full creamy head. The Rubin (Ruby) label comes from red tints when it is held up to a light. It is quite UNLIKE common German darks in being rather sweet and fruity. It is thin enough to be compatible with food but flavorful enough to please on its own. You have no overpowering and brothy flavors like some darks. You can enjoy it like a table wine. Good balance. 

Konings Hoeven Bock
RATING: 5.0
Tilburg, The Netherlands
This Dutch treat pours a hazy reddish-brown with a head the size of Vaalserberg (that would be the highest point in Holland), rocky, and strong tan. I had a expected a simple doppelbock but this product is so much more charming and inviting from the very start. It has a licorice-like tartness (and I REALLY mean natural licorice) and then come waves of malts, complex at times, monothematic are others and caressing one like Niagara Falls from a safe distance - all you handle in theory but can be gauged up and down to what you can and want to enjoy. Hello. Here is new experience and I am not sure if I am speechless from lack of fitting words or my excessive gulping with foam up my nose. Augmenting the licorice is pleasant molasses, sweet fruit (honeyed raisins and fig preserves perhaps), yeasty glory, dark spices, and then a dose of Halltertau hops. I am a lover of good port and I find the flavors here almost as engaging as any port under 15 years and so rewarding at every sip, modest or bold. Some experts suspect Belgian yeasts here and I suspect that is a clue to the unique glory of this label. I feel like sending a bottle or two of this to every American micro-factory claiming to make a dark lager of any consequence. All but a few should go running for the lab and months of experiments until something as important, substantial, and enchanting as Konings Hoeven Bock comes down their pipes and into their vessels. This is a Fruit Bock so elite and transcending the dark-bottled, foiled masses from every corner of the earth, I fear I almost missed it in my local crowed shop of 500 labels. This is a not a beer that deserves a mere gold medal or platinum one but only a ribboned decoration of .999 rhodium adorned with moon dust and a test tube with a few molecules of unuxium wrapped in 20 locks of Elvis' hair with a flawless 100ct blue diamond on the reverse, all wrapped in a outer swatch from the Shroud of Turin and encased in a long, lost Danish Silver Jubilee Faberge egg. Truly and without question one of the finest dark beers ever made. 

Kostritzer Schwarzbier (Black Lager) g d 5.0 533 Thuringen Schwarzbier means 'dark' or 'black' bier. It is not a dark as a thick stout but only a little light gets through to show reddish-brown. The head is large and foamy. Most people are familiar with a GERMAN DARK like a Becks or St. Pauli and this DARK LAGER is well within that flavor group. It has that brothy maltiness that makes a German dark known around the world. It is fully rewarding from first taste to finish by never overloads the tastebuds as may some DARK WHEATS from that same land. Given that we paid just $1.99 for a 500ml bottle is out-valued even some American microbrews that are just formula trash. This uncommon beer is worth seeking out for your taste trials against more familiar dark brews. It is at the pinnacle of its class.

Kropf Dark
RATING: 5.0 
This dark draft is unpasteurized and free of additives and presentatives. It is a dark reddish amber with a very enduring head. It is rich and flavorful yet without the molasses tones found in some dark amber beers of British origin. There is really nothing wrong with it but is no better than super- market darks like Grolsch Dark or St. Paul Girl Dark. Like it's Genuine German Draft cousin it can be a little tart unlike the sweeter darks. 

Kulmbacher Eku 28
RATING: 4.5
Germany
This amber eisbock is a whopping 11% ABV and is the first time this year I got that much ethanol for under 3 bucks a bottle. Eku 28 has a very thick, almost syrup-like mouth feel, then the alcohol hits you but with more charm that abruptness. Malt, malt, malt is all around. It's a bottled treastise and homage to malt and with an acceptable sugar approach. I found the head large at first but it sank more quickly than imagined - guess it's not loaded full of those light beer additives for "head intregrity management". It has a creamy, sweet, malted goodness and yet the sweetness is never overdone or offensive. Caramel of the highest quality is presented and one must but this on top of any list of well-breweed sweet malty beers - from anywhere. I'll get letters for this: guys, this is a fine bomb-the-chick-who-loves-dark-beer label - she'll never guess it's 2x more potent and then some. Okay, try it on your male buddies too while you're drinking a lower ABV dark.

Lammsbrau Organic Dunkel
RATING: 4.0
Nuremberg, Germany
"Organic Dunkel"? The next you know Mercedes will be making ugly, cheap, miniature cars...never mind. Lammsbrau claims to be the "world's largest organic craft brewery" and they bothered to get USDA organic certification too. Noble hops and "deep well mineral water" are employed in their process. I don't usually give good ratings when people brag about their water. It just usually works out that way. This Bavarian dark pours more amber than opaque brown; pretty in a class for sure. The head is wild bubble-based and rapidly creeps downward. Sweet malt is the aroma. Classic German dark malt comes to the foreground and the finish is rather clean. Sweetness is metered just right. They resisted the "malt soda trap". It's mid strength on my meter and that may be a problem. I think many organic beers are deliberately marketed to a specific audience and they dare not go "full bore" with either hops or malt for this reason. Turn up the malt two notches and you have something trendy and healthy without being a bit of a compromise. Dare to do it! Say yes! They can. They should.

Lao Beerlao Dark Lager
RATING: 4.0
Laos
Their regular lager is something of a cult hit in Asia and widely praised from the Asian beer media to the NY Times. The 6.5% ABV is pale amber in tone, small soft lace, and a giant amber-ivory head. It is crisp and clean, malty by midnote, reasonably dry by the lasting impressions. It will be too unambitious for addicts of uber-malty German fare but it will not offend nor be called "dark light". Even with the 11.2 oz. mini-bottle, it is a reasonable offering in the price range and for their intended worldwide market. I will not necessarily seek it out but I'd grab one long before downing a Michelob Dark for example.

Latrobe Bavarian Black u d 3.5 814 Latrobe PA Packaged like a microbrew but priced as $5.99 or less, this BLACK LAGER is dark brown with a big, lasting beige head. Chocolate and roasted malts are used to create something that is surely not stout. It is perhaps the least malty of any dark beer we have seen but it is not really weak either. It has a semi-sweet slightly citrus finish with just enough malt to please. For a $5.99 beer it is certainly recommendable but for $1-2 more there is a vast list of superior darks. Some of the Saranac darks can be had for just $6.99. Reviewers noted 'a quality fitting the [price] niche...good but not very interesting' and 'competant, pleasant, very drinkable...not world-beating'. A few felt the finish was unbearable but then again stout-aholics are that way.

Longshot Black Lager '96 u d 4.5 746 Cincinnati OH This is a copy of any award-winning brew out of 1680 entries in the World Homebrew Contest. Sponosored by Boston Beer, this dark category was won by

Jeffrey Grisold of Victoria, BC, Canada. It is actually more reddish-brown than black. The head is light tan and very long lasting. It is what we would call a DOUBLE BOCK or TRIPLE BOCK though with more hops that the usual German style. Original Gravity is 14.6 and 33 Hopping Units are employed. While a malt-lover's feast there are enough hops to give it some genuine balance. Reviewers re- marked on it 'very rich malt power with nothing held back...finish a bit more bitter than I'd prefer but overall well worth your dollar' and 'very full maltiness...a true feast'.

Lowenbrau Dark Special
RATING 3.0 
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
When Miller of Milwaukee makes this Munich formula something gets lost. It is physically darker (actually amber) but there is none of the rich complex flavor one expects even in the lightest of the darks. It is competant and pleasant but not different enough from regular Lowenbrau to get special notice. Like Michelob Dark this 'special' cannot pretend to offer the abundant flavor of a true dark beer. It is good and crisp but clearly mis-labeled. This is a faux Bock is such a style needs to exist - it surely needs to be named and the matching labels called out.

Lowenbrau Zurich Export Dark / d 4.5 694  1995 Zurich Why do we need Lowenbrau Dark from Zurich when it's already made in the good ole USA? Simple. The Zurich one actually tastes like a dark beer. Color is dark reddish-brown with a lasting but low head. It is HIGHLY aromatic with all sorts of malty temptations. Overall it reminds one of a decent single bock German dark like a Becks or DAB. It has a full measure of sweetness too so its not unlike some Oktoberfest beers tried lately. The only fatal flaw was a $9.99 price tag that we could not seem to beat in most Southern states. Reviewers noted 'full well-rounded malt depth with syrup-laden body' and 'first rate among European dark beers but too pricey to recommend.' 

Magic Hat HOWL Winter Seasonal Lager
RATING: 3.5
South Burlington, Vermont
I rarely find it useful or important to quote a passage from an beer label but this one is a notable exception: "Our mysterious melange of time-honored ingredients harmonize with chaotic chemistry, humble patience, and blind faith to create unique beers to share in the rousing company of kindred spirits". Good stuff if proves out. (and with that quote I rest my case about my writings being too pithy, dense, unreadable, and long-winded). It pours a shade or two from pure opacity (absolute thick in any dank bar), the head rich tan and lasting. It sips surprising light and nimble for the color, almost if the malts were steathy and required some kind of password for one to actually taste what you clearly see. The 4.6% will impress no one except drinkers in markets keeping things under the silly 5% standard. It has a bitter finish but by the entire bottle that bitterness proved annoying and without the quality this brewery is usually known for. It's a clear miss in all respects save for a thought-out, artful label. The above quote applies more to their other products. 

Michelob Classic Dark
RATING: 2.0
While stronger and darker than ordinary Michelob this is not a dark or stout by European standards. It is more like a Potent American. It has Michelob clarity but not the strong basic scents of a Heineken Dark or St. Pauli Dark. We found it had a sweet aftertaste at times - something not unpleasant with a meal. It might be called the weakest and clearest of the darks or a Semi-Dark. Some Dark fans have been disappointed. In their defense, Michelob has made a few malty, dark beers in recent years but few of them (even for their mid-micro prices) still fail to impress.

Mother Earth Dark Cloud Munich-style Dunkel Lager
RATING: 
Kingston, North Carolina
I found their fresh hops IPA to be stunning and their Endless River Kolsch as mediocre as the IPA was laudable. Thus this third major release in 2010 will tell me alot about this new eastern NC brewery. It empties a dark rootbeer-brown, the end large, dark tan, and lasting. The nose is a field of malty delights. First sip drenched my buds in quality but diverse malts, roasted long and chocolatey but very smooth in the finish for lack of hops. The dark beer market in the US not as crowded because the Germans and even some Mexicans do a very nice job with mellow, malty brown lagers - and many for a fair price point that microbrews would find challenging to match. This third label tells me we do indeed have a serious company, ready to challenge the biggest among the small and the largest among the giants. If you love malts and this label is evailable to you, give it s try and savor more than one. Dark cloud rain on me! And be sure to get alot in my nearly empty glass.

Negra Modelo
RATING: 5.0
Mexico
This is the only Mexican dark with any major popularity over time - we think. The short wide bottles look like giant chemical vials and fit the hand nicely. We'd like to see more companies use a similar bottle design. The dark brown color is more orange than red. The taste is more flavorful than potent. It is substantial without being strong. It is one of the VERY few dark/stout labels that are fine with a large meal. NM has a wine-like detail. In our database version we rated this our BEST MEXICAN BEER IN 1993. 

North Coast Traditional Bock u d 5.0 254 Color is rich amber. The head is fine-textured foam in such abundance that it may last 15 minutes! This brew is so heavenly in its malty depth that head duration (and bottle duration) is a few seconds for us. Sam Adams Double Bock (Doppelbock) is the logical comparison. We could not find fresh samples of both at once but our notes suggest Adams is stronger and darker. Refrigeration must be constant. Simply superb. Thoroughly worldclass.

Otter Creek Mud Bock Spring Ale
RATING: 5.0
Middlebury VT
The dark reddish-brown ale is immensely malty - "deep and broad maltiness" as they put it. Hopping is light. The head is small but enduring. They don't use preservatives or pasteurization. The name "mud" derives from their celebration of "the arrival of Vermont's sloppy spring". The winter scene on the label of harvesting and hauling maple syrup gives it a very wholesome sort of appeal. Indeed it is as rich and hearty as an American beer short of a stout can be. There is also a faint smokiness (very slight) so one is inclined to group it with the porters on taste alone. It has a slight hoppy nip in the finish and lots of dry appeal. This is one the better dark American ales you're likely to find anywhere.



Puntigamer Panther Dark Malt g d 5.0 287 This 'Genuine Draft' has one of those terrific creamy and full heads that makes a great show. The color is very dark amber that casts red lights around your crystal. The flavor is of the smoky type such that Anchor Porter would prove to be an interesting comparison. Sam Adams Double Bock is very different. It is dark and rich enough to please but not heavy nor with a long finish. A rather ordinary meal will be improved with Panther Dark Malt at the table.

Red Rock Black Beer u d 4.0 1004 UT Reviewers report 'moderate doses of both hops and malt, very dark brown color, and rather sophisticated flavors overall.'

Reichelbrau Frankisches Urbier g d 5.0 296 This product of Kulmbach must be compared to Hofbrau Bavaria Dark which is from the same brewery and has the same taste. Color is dark amber and head is foamy and persistant. It is not strong but is brothy and full enough to be quite satisfying. One must mention that the multi-tone brown and gold label is one of the most attractive for any collection and carries Old World charm. It is smooth enough to serve with a fairly rich meal. 

(Chatoe) Rogue First Growth - Grow the Revolution - Dirtoir Black Lager
RATING: 4.5
Newport, Oregon
The label is a proud presentation of a dark fist which seems to be half 60's "Black Power" and half old Soviet labor poster - all while clutching wheat and hops stems. Risk(tm) malts are used along with Independent and Revolution hops, together with German yeast. Not sure a crushing fist with German ingredients and "purity" is a comforting or compatible theme here dudes. There's a "first growth" thing going on too as well as a GYO (Grow Your Own) theme that makes the presentation ever more confusing. How about a rule we promote just one charity or pius theme per label guys? Can a Haitian Earthquake - Save the Polar Bears - Let's Go Back to the Moon - Support Arlo Guthrie's Ranch - Buy Twisty Lightbulbs - Neuter Yer Kitty - Never Squish a Spider - Organic ale made with free range hop vines (not tied down and allowed to creep) and harvested only by homeless, transgendered Union workers wearing recycled Birkenstocks and carried by their 3-legged, canine-American companions in carts on roads created by native tribes and Bison be coming soon? Damn! Let most of it go for sud's sake - I just want a decent beer and you can decide what to do with any freakin', tainted profits on the backside, downlow and unknown to me or any other Republican aleheads or Tea Party maltaholics who happen to buy your capped, overpriced fluids. 

Rogue has a generally accurate way of describing their products and so I repeat "jet black in color with a tan head, full bodied, deftly balanced, seamless dark roasted malt flavors wirh smooth bitterness, lingering long finish". It is uber-porter dark, the head tanned like a drunk striper using a faulty bed timer, deep malty nose - porter or stout aroma for sure. These are so luscious...smmmm... oooooth malts to be sure. Hops are a bit on the low scale for this brewery and some people think that's a flaw here. I was skeptical but Rogue has a way of making me a believer - they have evangelistic skills like Billy Graham or Billy Sunday on their very best day - a believer at least in the broth even if not the trendy, PC baggage on the labels. The hops are well-infused, a malt-hops balance that suits me to the point of adoration. It is just 5% ABV and so very marketable around the world. It gets a Schwarzbier classification from most online experts and I'd meekly agree in the strict sense. It will serve functionally as a very smooth stout to the average beer guy. Now that I've consumed most of it, the black fist is now luminous Latino or drunk striper amber by the lamps and isn't that a potent lesson for all of us - or not?

Samichlaus Bier
RATING: 5.0
Eggenberg, Austria
In this fraudulent marketing era when "fresh beer" is said to be the only acceptable beer, I'm glad people are being told otherwise. This label proudly proclaims it was bottled in 2007. As "the world's most extraordinary beer", we get a tactical nuclear weapon of the dark beer world with a true 14.0% ABV - that's aged port territory my friends. If $5.00 for 11.2 ounces was ever a good deal, this is the example to cite over and over. Color is glowing amber, on the darker side, lace very long, and the head big at first but short-lived. They brew this stuff only once a year on December 6 and it takes a full year to get the flavor and ABV they require. Here is no 30-day and out, light, weak-as-water, additive-drenched, chemically-managed, flavor-augmented brew in a can folks! This is real quality, conniseur, craft to the highest levels beer if ever it existed. You can accuse them of making a simple malt syrup and following basic laws of science to boost the ethanol to massive levels. But if so, why don't others do this and charge the proportant, lofty sums for the experience! The reason is because this formulation is tuned just right and any simple attempt at hyper-sugar, rich malt, and high ABV would be a crude disaster until years of smart tinkering. There's a lovely tartness to compliment the sweetness, cream with your candy, enough carmel to drown a bushel of apples, and the spice of raisins. Some beer snobs says it needs aging, more refinement and to that I saw...what's stopping you?!? Age it like a Tom Hardy ale and get what you like in a year or five. "Fresh" (at one year or more) or aged, this is one of the finest achievements in the brewing world and you don't have to be a snob to appreciate the flavors.

Samuel Adams Dark Lager
RATING: 4.5
Boston, Mass.
Let's start with the label claims as I usually do: "traditional lager...medium in body...deep roasted character...rich malty flaovr from specially roasted caramel and chocolate malts...lightly hopped [Bavarian Noble]....soft spiciness...smooth clean finish". Thank you, James. The label also says "21 and counting", noting the number of their regular labels; no small feat considering the size of the market they must wrangle. It pours a very dark reddish-brown, a couple clicks from opaque, the head mix brown and beige, and lasting well in tiny bubble form. Like many SA products, you are smitten with tartness early on and then the flavors come at you in waves, in this case big malty but not multi-dimensional waves. After a bottle or two, the hops cling to you and those become better, adding depth. You do need two bottles min to really get this one. I always laugh at those tiny sampling cups at beer festivals for no one learns much from that and you're never qualified to be a guru or review anything by collecting an hundred of those puny samples. You can't swill or sniff or rinse your gums with beer to know beer. You must drink beer and lots of it; always doing your reviews before the EtoH clouds the judgement. I very seldom review more than 4-6 beers at any setting and yes I do drink them full and long. This brew is very nice, I would even call it a "near porter" perhaps on account of the tartness, roundness, and big malty bath in the later notes. The finish is never stout rich nor smooth but one gets a big of comfort in those tall, tart malty punches; a style of abuse most beer lovers come to adore, demand, and crave. It might have been ruined by more sweetness and it's sufficiently dry to be smooth without offending. It is burnt and roasted like old coffee from the Bunn pot in the office break room at 9pm while working late on Jones account or tommorow's "bad news is really good news" presentation. There's something nice about all that sticky, harsh stuff. It's odd how we love burned malts and sugars whether craving caffeine to boost or ethanol of sooth. I think our Creator hard-wired malt and tannins into our human program to really be fascinated and needy of them in so many forms.

Samuel Adams Double Bock
RATING: 5.0
This DARK LAGER is made using lager yeast, Bavarian hops, and four (yes 4) times the malt of normal beers. It is dark reddish amber with a very solid head of creamy color. It is unique among all American beers and without the import costs one finds it very affordable as a six pack - unlike many German and British labels. While rich and flavorful it finishes with silky smoothness and a sweet malted taste to linger on the tonque. Unique and memorable. 

Samuel Adams Imperial Double Bock
RATING: 4.5
Boston, Mass.
This 2009 release is made with nearly a half pound of roasted malt per bottle and German Noble hops. It pours "mahogany" in color (rich brownish-red). It is more syrupy and thick that the more familiar Double Bock offering of previous years. This 9/5% variant is offered in 4-bottle packs for just a bit under $10 - no bargain compared to the usual stuff. Imperial White and Imperial Porter were release in similar trim at this same time. While their regular Double Bock is potent, it is also smoother and less heavy in mouthfeel. Sweetness is medium-high, perhaps a 7 on a scale of 1 to 10. Malt is full but not so complex as a monolithic, supercharged single theme. There are passages of hops bitterness but they are mostly "sugared out" by the finish. I found it a bit hard to drink after the first wonderful bottle. It's for slow sipping in low quantities for sure. I blended it with a decent Pils and found it 90:10 in that formula more appealing. This label shows the subtle difference between glorious excess with no regrets and respectable "over the top" brewing. This is perhaps over-the-top for it's own sake. There are slight regrets here though not all you will agree with me. The difference is like 600 horsepower in a carbon-fiber Ferrari trim vs. the same in grand steel Mustang. Potency needs a certain degree of care, an elite package, and a suitable framework to be called perfection. This one is a tad simple, too thick, too sweet, and underhopped to get my perfect score.


San Miquel Dark d 5.0 330 This Philippine masterpiece is colored dark reddish brown with a long-lived foamy head of the highest quality. It is endlessly rich and rewarding in addition to an alcohol content from 3.2 to 4.1 (by weight and depending on the source). The phrase 'nectar of the Gods' came quickly to mind. It is every bit as fine as any Samuel Smith or Young's stout but not quite so rich. We rate is slightly better than St. Pauli Dark and Negra Modelo. Top notch!

Saranac Black Forest Bavarian Black Beer
RATING: 4.0
Utica, New York
Slow-kilned and two-row malts are used with five varieties of both imported and domestic hops to make this bargain thriller. While very dark brown it is not really a porter and as the label says it shows 'medium body'. The head is tall and creamy. The hops-malt balance is quite exceptional for this or any other price range though it is not quite worldclass. Reviewers noted 'a smooth, comfortable flavor that is pleasing without being harsh or bitter'. Another wrote that 'while it would not replace Becks Dark or a host of other brown German labels it is nice to know America can produce this quality for under $6-7'.  

Saxer Three Finger Jack HefeDunkel u d 4.5 738 Lake Oswego OR This microbrew from outside of Portland has trademarked (unregistered) the name 'Hefedunkel'. That name ALWAYS means a DARK WHEAT in commerce so it is sur- prising this beer is neither cloudy nor described as a wheat beer; though very dark it is. It is crystal clear reddish-brown with a lasting beige head. It won the 1994 Great American Beer Festival Gold Medal for Dark Lager. Overall it is not unlike a very fine dryer OKTOBERFEST beer in terms of malty depth and faintly sweet finish. There was shade too much bitterness in the hops for some reviewers though most were pleased it was not sugary sweet. If you are partial to full blast hops-and-malt (like many potent Pale Ales) this is sure to be please. You'll want much more than three fingers worth.

Schlenkerla Rauchbier Marzen g d 5.0 610 Bamburg Schlenkerla of Bamburg makes this SMOKY or RAUCHBIER using kilned malt to add that flavor. The beechwood process dates from 1678 or before. It is also a Marzen style which in German means 'March'. Marzen beers are usually started in March, very red, malty, medium strength, and a Vienna style that is typical of your average German Oktoberfest beer. Unlike a fest this is smoky and not sweet (so dry). The American smoky brew by Rogue is an most suitable comparison although this must be considered the traditional style. One reviewer said he 'preferred the smoke flavor in my German sausage' while to another 'unique and wonderful character almost like a quality old Scotch' (another smoked malt drink). The finish is long so match food with care!

Schloss-Privat Export Dunkel
RATING: 4.0
Mickhausen/Bayern
This brewery like many of Germany's finest dates from centuries ago - 1613 in this case. And unlike lots of old German breweries they now use a freshness date marking system. It is one of the lighter colored of German export darks, being amber and not the least bit brown. The head is full and semi-persistant. Flavor is malty but moderate for the style. The finish is a tad sharp and bitter. It was considered a flaw by a few of our reviewers. Sweetness is very slight. The 500ml bottles are filled with 4.5% alcohol by volume - up to a full percentage less than some darks of American origin. Reviewers noted 'a fair amount of roasted malt charm but it failed to impress me' and 'very average...Optimater and Becks [Dark] to say nothing about several great dark wheats...really beat it by miles'.

Shiner 100 Commemorator
RATING: 4.0
Shiner, Texas
Up front I must confess to never having liked or admired any Shiner product; nothing in their 100 years of brewing and my 30+ years in sampling. That changes here but only a little. I like it but not much more can be said. The 100th Anniversary of the Spoetzl Brewery is marked with this very dark, doppelbock that weighs in at 6.7% ABV. Color is rich amber-brown, not so dark as expected, the head near white and of average duration. Flavor is richer than their usual stuff, moderate malt and very faint hopping. When a real beer lover sees that -ator suffix one expects a rich, dark feast and all the stops pulled out in the brewing concert. It is pleasant and nice but not remarkable nor on the class of readily available doppelbocks in the US market; many very close in price now. It is drinkable and accessible in the popular sense and that sense my friends disguises a good deal of lost opportunities and things just a notch or to about mediocraty. Anniversary beers are special occasions and this was largely squandered though no one at your party will spit it out. It is no Optimator and that should be clear.

 Shiner Bock u raa 2.0 349 The Spoetzl Brewery of Shiner TX has since 1909 made this beverage in the style of their Bavarian founder Kosmos Spoetzl. Color is rich reddish amber. Head is persistant and carbonation long. Flavor was shockingly limited for a darkish brew labeled 'Bock'. The dry finish emphasizes the rather thin hops and malt taste. At $5.49 Rolling Rock Bock is a vastly better selection. We see Michael Jackson gave it 1.5 of 4.0 stars. Not recommended. 


Shmaltz Coney Island Human Blockhead
RATING: 4.0
Saratoga Springs, NU
Where else will you see a dude wearing a purple bow tie pounding a nail into his nasal cavity with a hammer?  Some of these bold "sideshow" labels from Shmaltz are novelties and some of them are fairly good. It won as Grand Champion in the US Beer Tasting Championship for Alternative Lagers. It pours amber dark, decent mid-strength lace, and a small ivory head. Mouthfeel starts syrupy and one soon gets the expected sticky candy malt flavors on a level that many famous amber ales have perfected. Hopping is light but at least it exists. It is warming, tempting, easily likable, and what I have in the past called Candy Lager. ABV is a full 10% so it's thermonuclear liquid candy. I would like to have seen more hops but perhaps they got lost in the tangy ethanol as often happens in this stratum of the universe. Reminds me of "a spoon full of sugar (or twenty)...makes the medicine go down.."

Spaten Optimator (Special Dark)
RATING: 5.0
This Special Dark is of the DoppelBock or Double Bock type - which is true of most Bavarian beers ending in the suffix -ator. It is dark reddish brown (like a cherry coke) and with a short-lived but distinctly brown head. It proved endlessly flavorful and refreshing. Compared to the more available St. Pauli Dark and it proved less brothy and smoother. As a seasonal spring beer it is often rare in the US. Very memorable and worth waiting for. Optimator is a classic, a standard from the old country, and one should be regularly acquanted with it to judge the new beers. The Optimator name is a legend in Europe and among informed North Americans. It's a standard, a big standard, so honor and enjoy it.

Sprecher Black Bavarian Beer d
St. Pauli Girl Dark g d 4.0 372 This popular quality German also comes in quality stout/dark variant from the Bremen brewery. Poured into a glass it could pass for a cola - remember that. While visually dark it is mild among the darks in flavor. It is never bitter nor potent like some darks. It does lack a complexity that we so admire in Whitbread Ale among some others. Among common grocery store darks we'd prefer DAB Dark or Grolsch Dark. 

St. Stan's Alt (Dark) u d 5.0 594 Modesto CA The slogan 'conceived in heaven...brewed in California' is cute. And most accurate. This German alt style is not always what American's come to expect of a dark beer. While not as potent and brothy as some true alt beers this one is never weak nor thin like a few German export darks. It is a very nice balance in what we might call a SMOOTH DARK - a beer that is wonderfully malty and deep but does not monopolize your tastebuds for the next 5 hours. Not a few of us considered it to be one of the finest California darks and certainly one of the best of the style from these shores at least. The $9 price might set a few people off but this time it is worth it. Well crafted and a nice change of pace for most dark drinkers.

Uerige Doppelsticke
RATING:  4.5
Germany
The last time I bought a bottle of this shape it cleaned my Dodge Intrepid's fuel injectors. The brown glass ultra-long neck is 6 inches or so and the molded named base a narrow, tapered thing. Add in the swinging hardward and you're not sure this will be a good deal for price or volume - flavor decisions will come later. It's alot of fuss for just 11.2 ounces of anything - perfume included. THIS BOTTLE IS HIGHLY COLLECTIBLE ON TWO LEVELS -  UNIQUENESS AND QUALITY OF THE CONTENTS. This classic altbier is medium brown with a huge head in beige. ABV is 8.5%  and there's a faint haze to the it under strong light. Big, fat malt jumps and thumps you at once, following by nice, polite carmel sweetness in the finish. You need to consume a couple or four to get the hops bitterness they've built in for balance. It is a very pleasant beer but you definately need two or three to appreciate it fully. There are definately stout moments for some of us and yet you get some crisp fruit jumping up and demanding attention. This might well be a Five Bottler but it's not easily "accessible" unless one lingers long over several bottles. One experienced taster considers it a hybrid of alt, doppelbock, and an fruity English bitter ale. Wow, wow, very wow. Is that good or a brewing flaw? Is this a curious, odd mistake or planned brilliance? You decide. The history of this recipe deserves some study. You will like very much I am sure - love may grow as long the neck?

Thomas Hardy's Ale e d 5.0 150 BEST BEER FOR AGING This Gourmet ale comes individually numbered like a good rare Port and is well worth searching out. It is imported by Phoenix Imports of Ellicott City ME who can help you find a local source. It comes in 6.33 and 12 oz. bottles about $2.70 and $6.00 respectively. This very old recipe was re- created in 1968 and first came to the US in 1986. This full yet smooth ale is better than most beers and wines. It ages to become creamy and smooth. 

Tommyknockers Butthead Doppelbock Lager
RATING: 4.5
Idaho Springs, Colorado
Two mischevious lads (tommykockers are akin to leprekauns) are riding on huge rams but are butting heads on the label. This wonderful beer pours a faintly clouded amber-brown with a mid-sized tan head. The crystal malt notes are wonderfully rich, supported by ample but not excessive sweetness. There is some hops bitterness in the background but faintly so. Finish is more dry than early to mid sugary-malt peaks. It is not so brothy or earthy as most European double bocks and in this respect is more Americanized than traditional. But don't knock a bock until you've sipped it long. It is approach an O-fest beer in the overall theme and the label states their goal was "big, rich mouthfeel". It is very convincing as a sweet, double-dosed dark, robust but approachable, friendly but not as deep as it might be.


Weeping Radish Black Radish u d 5.0 396 This product of Durham NC is now bottled for the South. Color is dark reddish brown with a very brown head of limited duration. Flavor is much like a good German dark but carries some rich malty notes of a lighter Stout. It is equally fine at 50 degrees or at room temperature and provides a nice depth of flavor. It is full enough to satisfy but not very rich like many stout and porter labels. A good comparison for Anderson and North Coast darks. 

Weihenstephaner Korbinian Doppelbock
RATING:  5.0
Weihenstephan, Germany
The world's oldest brewery gets our attention with their (mainly three) labels of worldclass, standard-setting wheat brews. This Double Bock comes in the same bullet-shaped bottles, pours very dark and without the expected lace of their more famous offerings. Malt drenches the senses at first sniff and sip. Hops is a distant thing if they even needed to bother with such stuff. The 7.4% ABV is higher than their other labels I believe and that's something of a strength we did not have permission to buy in North Carolina until a few years ago. This "Dunkels Starkbier" is a feast fit for the Malt Gods and I suppose somewhere they must or should exist. Comparisons to Spaten Optimator are obvious and I at least find that label more avalable that this recently discovered (July 2008) offering. This label as with Optimater is drinkable with a slight chill though it benefits from the aromatic release of a lower temp. 46 to 52 deg. F. is the desired storage temp and is perhaps just about right for consumption too - though one can easily go way south of those numbers in summer. While mono-dimensional it is so solid, so refined, and so delicious in that malty dimension, you want it again and again. It is earthy, raw, and roasty without fault, dry, clean, and with this simple mission statement: DRY MALTY GOODNESS TO THE MAX. They resisted the temptation of US micros to produce shallow malt soda for the 100K bars that now embrace microbrews. Yet this label is still accessible and fun. Korbinian is truly an overdose of malt that will send some hop-a-holics runnings for the door. If you love TOO MUCH malt for your own good, go here, otherwise keep your money in the mainstream microbrews. Put it on your "you need to try this" list for friends you're trying to teach about amazing, worldclass beer. It's a worthwhile education from sip one. 

Wurzburger Hofbrau Bavarian Dark
RATING: 3.0
Bavaria, Germany
Wurzburger dates from 1643 with informal traditions back to 1434 or so. This Bavarian Dark is called Burkardus in the native land. It is clear and orange- brown with sparse carbonation and a short-lived head. By our standard of good grocery store German darks it is thin and watery. Finish is semi-dry and smooth. Like some other reviewers we are profoundly disappointed. If there could be a class called DARK LITE this is it. Becks Dark has it beat on all fronts. 

Wurzburger Hofbrau May Bok (Bock) r d 4.0 895 his golden to amber spring brew has a short head but some carbonation. The f lavor is pleasant and semi-sweet with medium depth of hops and malt. For $ 9.00 a sixpack we would expect more. Like their Bavarian Dark it just was n ot flavorful nor complex enough. Our May 1994 trial was disappointing. Con- s idering their Julius Echter and 3 century's experience we are sure they can d o better. This is a VW Jetta at a Mercedes price. Delete foil - add flavor. W

Xinggu Black Beer Br d 5.0 411 BEST CENTRAL AMERICAN BEER IN US This dark Brazilian beauty has a name pronounded Shin-goo and is named for a tributary of her sister the Amazon. While quite opaque and with a medium brown head it is not full like a stout or porter. It is fairly aromatic and provides a rich flavor only in the aftertaste. The potency simply explodes with pleasure and is quite rewarding. The primative-style diamond shaped label is very collectible although Michael Jackson says the tribal connection is 'spurious'.

Yuengling Bock
RATING: 
Pottsville, Pennsylvania
America's oldest brewery has another one, this $6.99 hitting the bottom of the micro-market if not even lower. Before I forget, I reminded by the story that President Obama had a bet with the Canadian Prime Minister about the Olympic hockey finals in 2010. The head guy up north was offering up a case of Molson. The US lost and Prez BarryO gave a case of Yuengling to the Primey. This gesture was not lost on the Union supporters of the US leader who consider the union-buting Yuengling about as highly as Hitler and Bernie Madoff. A President who won with lots of union help representing his country with...you get the idea. Brings new meaning to State of the Union, I suppose. My objection is different for I would rather our great land be represented by something with actual flavor and representative of highest brewing accomplishments. 

Anywho, this bock pours medium amber-brown, the head large and tan. The nose is malty in a earthy way, tempting in facgt. It quickly became my favorite Yuengling, miles ahead of their omnipresent Black and Tan which is tons weaker. It is only very slightly sweet, very nicely judged, and the malts while simple and straight-forward are ample and elegantly delivered. Not sure I've loved a $6.99 sixpack this much since 1983 when my flimsy vinyl wallet only had 8 single bills in it on average. We are told this 2010 bock re-issue, billed as a "late winter seasonal classic", is in time for their 180th anniversary. They have not done a bock in about 40 years. Sadly, it will last only 10-12 weeks of production and this fine brew using 1941 label artwork will go away, in favor of doubtless cheaper beers in their recipe file. I wish they'd ask Detroit how smart it is to offer a great, popular product once every 20-40 years and go long periods by selling, cheaper crap? That thinking doesn't work in any industry or in any world known to me, folks. 

Zötler Korbinian Dunkel Classic Bavarian Dark Lager
RATING: 5.0
Rettenberg, Germany
"Germany's Oldest Family-Owned Brewery" goes back to 1447 and now brewing in their 20th generation. Cool! Their operation is set at the "vacation paradise and ski resort in the foothills of the Bavarian Alps" and I can almost see a necessary tasting trip coming up; assuming my publisher will kick over a 3 grand advance for "research". The four-pack of punny 11.2 ouncers and 4.7% ABV was initially a big negative. The $6.99 (March 2009) price tempered that feeling but it was the flavor that made me find this of supreme value in the final analysis. This "authentic rendition" of the old style is spot on to my slightly informed American taste. I've tried 99% of the dark lagers they send over and that is my only qualification to say this is pure and ultra-authentic. Yes, yes, I known "ultra-authentic" is a bad writing because something is either authentic or not. I just liked how it sounded, okay?!?! (Note to self: trademark the phrase "ultra authentic" and get rich). It pours a very dark amber-brown, as dark as few porters I've tried of late, good cream head but neither tall or lasting in my crystal. It's loaded full of those comforting German-grade malts, bits of corn, bread, and earthy malt in the mix but never crude as some darks banished here to lower scores. It is wonderful at 40, the recommended 45 deg. F. and even much warmer. Sweetness is moderate but calming and the finish is as smooth as the $495K, 617 horsepower Mercedes SLK McClaren on a quiet Sunday drive down an empty Autobahn. (That means worldclass smooth beyond most of our comprehension and second to nothing anywhere). There is faint hoppy bitterness in one's finishes after the first bottle or two - the basic hops carryover effect from a saturated tongue. They have recipe tuned in well and that is surprising actually. Lots of families in Germany and Belgium with 3-5 centuries under their belt don't always deliver as I'd expected. These folks get it, kept it, and continue with it. This is truly one of the finest German darks and will be among my new standards in future taste panels.

LAGER - FRUITED AND FLAVORED

Michelob Ultra Lime Cactus
Michelob Ultra Pomegranate Raspberry
Michelob Ultra Tuscan Orange Grapefruit
RATING: 3.0
St. Louis, Missouri
I'm taking the liberty to review these as a group as they are essentially the same light Pils flavored with the things mentioned in what is said to be natural form. (I'm picturing big white buckets or shovel trucks full of powdered "natural" something here). I'd pick the Tuscan Orange above the rest but for review purposes they grade out the same. There is no beer flavor of any kinds and they are not overly sweetened wine coolers or "malt beverages" either. They are beery enough when very cold for some folks; mostly the type who cares about feelings, fashion, and the position of toilet seats. I'll confess to having consumed 5 of the Lime Cactus one night in the Holiday Inn Select Hotel because the only store open was a gas station and I could not the suffer the other unflavored, watery crap on offer that icy night in Raleigh. I was as not offended by the experience was I was unimpressed. No harm, no foul, no repeat experience unless iced in again. After three, you go with the flow, get your thrills from television and plan for real beer the next night to sooth your guilt. 107 cals each and a pathetic 4.2% ABV.

 

New Holland El Mole Ocho Beer
RATING: 4.0
Holland, Michigan
Hey! You got chocolate in my vegetable juice! Actually it's supposed to be beer but first sip gives one all the dark, dank, earthy comfort of a brownish V-8 tomato cocktail. "In our exploration into the flavors of mole..." says their website. A bit off the radar there. If you know something of this adventurious company they really do some nice work and also some work in progress to extends the envelope all the way to Galaxy A1689-zD1 and a couple of billion l.y.'s more for good measure. When this veggie-choco drink (a lager perhaps?) gets onto your buds, there is one more surprise. A bit of measured chili in the finish. This sure isn't my dads beer...closer to his homemade salsa actually. You'll either love or hate this experiment or pretend like so online beer gurus to keep an open mind for the sake of coolness. If everyone agrees to hate it next week, then they'll mark it down to a C+. I know that type of person and never cease to be different.

I don't know much about mole and apparently real historians say that no one does for sure. Whether it traces from Puebla or Oaxaca is disputed but forms come from both today. The very word derives from mulli or "concoction". Circa the 1550's, some folks (many nuns) ground up a bunch of chocolate, nuts, bread, chiles, misc. spices, and most anything they had to made a sauce - the kind of sauce you make from the pantry when it's very low and nothing seems to go together. The Archbishop had come to visit without warning and they did what they could and succeeded to his satisfaction and so this cobbled together sauce was invented. We also know that the Aztecs experimented with chiles and chocolate so the mole in one form or another is probably much older than the Mexican stories. There's another story about Archbishop visiting and spices got blown by the wind in to the cooking, the result being accidental but praiseworthy once again. Other popular additives to modern mole include left over tacos, crackers, lard, plaintains, peanuts, almuds, fried bread, tomatillos, onion, sesame seeds, oregano, garlic, cloves, and cinnamon - some have their own names if one ingredient is featured.

I have had chili lagers in the 80's and most of them were either too strong or too faint. The chili dose here is just right for my Upstate New York bred tastes. I like the idea of this beer but would have toned it down to be vegetable-juicy and perhaps made it a chocolate stout instead using the benefits of real chocolate. This is surely a cooking beer for batters in any event but as a drinking beer, I find it excessive for the sake of name. Coffee was added to this concoction and that too makes me wonder why a stout or porter style was not employed here. It is best very cold and roomed to ambient temps in your house, it will get a bit like something the Juice Man would hand out. 

  Man

3 Horses h rlp 4.3 Horses h rlp 4.

LAGER - LIGHT


Amstel Light
RATINGL 2.0
Holland
This light from Holland is imported by Van Munching of NYC is what we might call a hyper-light. Flavor is very thin so it is ideal with Mexican or other spicy foods. It is too weak by itself and at a mere 95 calories it must contain a good deal of water. Amstel Light is almost an invisble stealth type of beer. It tastes like a flavored water but with enough alcohol to provide a pleasant edge. This extreme was a disappointment.


Anderson Valley Poleeko Gold Light
RATING: 4.0

This 'Light' ale is bright honey gold with a full head and hint of haze under a strong light. It is by far the thinnest and least impression of AV's major 750ml offerings. It has a nice hops flavor and lacks the fruity palate of most other AV products. We cannot confirm it is light in calories but if so it is surely one of America's few flavorful light ales. Boston Lightship was a better choice but this is worth trying. Can have bitterness if too warm.


Becks Light
RATING: 5.0
BREWBASE AWARD: BEST PILS STYLE LIGHT BEER

The label proclaims that BL is 96 calories and is 100% German. While crisp and clean tasting when cold it retains a very substantial Pilsner taste that is lacking is most lights. It is tied with Boston Lightship as the best lights and it stands alone as the world's best Pils-type light. These two beers will please those of us who normally hate light beers. This beer is highly compatible and pleasant with spicy or heavy meals of many types.


Boston Lightship
RATING: 5.0
Boston MA
BREWBASE AWARD: BEST AMERICAN LIGHT BEER 1992

Tied as the top sub-100 calorie (98) light in the world. From Boston Beer Co. is this superb light that 'is the only light beer known to us in the world without artificial enzymes, adjuncts, or diluting water.' according to James Koch. It shows the uses of named hops but MUST be served VERY cold to keep the flavor tasting complex. If you do not like lights this is one to try anyway. As the cap says: Serious Light Beer.


Brewski Brew Pub Light
RATING: 2.0

This microbrewed 'batch by batch' beer from Portland is reasonably priced at $5.49 but not for its actual flavor. Color is medium yellow and the head is more lasting than popular 'American Light Pils' types. Sadly it lacks any of the hops charm that made their regular Brew Pub Classic a very good (but not great) beer. This has no merit given the other decent lights available - Cardinal Light and Boston Lightship come quickly to mind. Skip it. Bronze Medal in 1993 GABF in American Light Lager.


Budweiser Light (Bud Light)
RATING: 3.0

With all the marketing and frequent sales this is very popular. It is certainly one of the top selling of all time. We think that Michelob Light and Coors Light are slightly better - all three score 3 bottles. It is perhaps too acidic for some tastes. We feel that Bud Dry is is much superior product although a bit heavier in taste. It will not disappoint (as some cheap lights will) but it is not memorable.


Busch Light Draft
RATING: 2.0

This budget 110 calorie light is a bit of a beer cooler or alcoholic water type of product. In its favor we found Amstel Light and Kirin Light of about equal merit at more than TWICE the price. This cold-filtered light is far more compatible with food or football snacks than its regular Busch cousin. It is less bubble-bound and comes off being cleaning and more palatable with food. Although pale it is a shade darker and more gold than regular Busch.


Cardinal Amber Light
RATING: 5.0
Switzerland
BREWBASE AWARD: BEST LIGHT AMBER BEER

Cardinal breweries of Switzerland (1788) makes this TRUE LIGHT in lovely gold and forest green recycled packaging and 90% recycled glass. It is a mere 95 calories. C.A.L. is intend amber; something very rare for light beers. The head is initially full and taste 'hearty' as the label declares. It is well hopped and with malted notes. It is unlike all other lights in this database. We paid a shocking $3.45 for 6 bottles but it seems quite hard to locate. I have not seen it in years and presume it gone.


Colders 29 Light
RATING: 1.0

This Miller product is 'cold aged at 29 degrees'. Unlike the regular version it is almost without any redeeming flavor or character. Like Miller Reserve 100% Barley Malt Light they have taken a decent bargain beer and given it a bargain basement taste. Perhaps the low price (app. $2.75 in cans) and 'light' labels gives people freedom to enjoy another 400 calorie slice of pizza with no guilt. Perhaps it is a rare treat for the Busch Light crowd. Who knows?


Coors Light
RATING: 3.0
Golden CO

Smooth and low acid light that is perhaps the best POPULAR American light for ease in drinking and compatability with any food. Europeans and some Americans will call it a low-calorie alcoholic water. It could become one's table beer but is lacks complexity and emotion. It is invisible in taste and on the wasteline. It is a silver bullet tossed and not fired. Boston Lightship is the best American Light but is harder to find and $2-3 more per six.


Coors Red Light
RATING: 2.0
Golden CO

The old Silver Bullet ('Golden Light' we suppose) is now the old stuff. This new 1995 issue has redder color and just a bit more malty flavor than the old light. We stress the phrase 'just a bit'. There is really no merit in picking this beer in our opinion. Becks Light, Cardinal Amber Light, and Moosehead Light are our best light choices if and when you would ever want such a kind a beer - and most of don't and never will. The very lovely packaging here does nothing to make up for what is a miserable and taste-free product. Killian's Irish Brown seems to be the only Coors with any flavor on shelves these days. As reviewer put it: 'Coors should think of this as a red light for their image - stop and reevaluate their wrong direction.'


Corona Light
RATING: 3.0

This lighter version of the popular Corona is not particularly stunning among light beers for a general lack of taste. While it is very drinkable with spicy and heavy meals there are several other low-cal and smooth lights of better quality. In its favor are some fairly low prices when placed on sale and its availability when other light beers are not. We think Coors Light and Mich Light are better values in this price range.


Darryl's Pig Light
RATING: 2.0
Dubuque IA

dubuque Brewing of Iowa produces this very pale yellow brew that is lighter than their regular Pig Pounder Lager but ends up with a larger head. It is your basic flavorfree beer that gives no clue that a hop or particle of yeast ever came close.


Dinkel Acker Light
Not yet available for evaluation - write us if you've tried it. We're putting it up against Beck's Light and Watney's Light among others.


Dixie Jazz (1990's)
RATING: 4.0
New Orleans, LA

This LIGHT AMBER from New Orleans is perhaps not as good as Cardinal Amber Light but both are about equally as rare in shops. Color is amber but the head is fairly short-lived. It has enough flavor to charm and some sweetness to raise it far about your basic American LIGHTS PILS. The black, gold, red, and lavender label has raised texture and is artistic enough to be a Broadway sign. A weak finish is expected for its 92 calories.

Dixie Jazz Amber Lights by Joseph Huber Brewing
RATING: 4.5
Monroe, Michigan
The review above was an old incarnation from the Big Easy but this is a 2009 contract brewed variant from the Joseph Huber organization. Katrina destroyed their original old brewery and they've conquered and survived. It's a thin 4.13% ABV but the flavor of real Pils occurs in a nice malty way I found surprisingly adequate and pleasing. It is no basic "Amiercan LIGHT PILS" as described a decade or so ago. Calories still tap out at 92. It is rich gold but amber it is not unless you're sitting in a very dark bar wtih orange-tinted lamps. Their goal of retaining genuine Pils flavor in this lower cal form has been reached and I think they deserve kudos for this successful effort.


Foster's Light a l 3.0 119 While regular Foster's is very fine this light does nothing for the beer lover. It is crisp and clean but with too little flavor compared to other fine lights. In fact some folks consider the regular Foster's to be a Semi-Light anyhow. Having less taste is the wrong direction to go and is in our opinion an unnecessary product. It is easily recognized by the mostly white packaging. It was not widely seen in NC until mid 1991.


Genesee Light u l 2.0 129 These blue cans just become available this far down South. Like most popular lights this has no real charm for serious beer lovers. It is smooth and clean and lacks the semi-bitter aftertaste of lights we rated as a single bottle. I suppose they can make a few million $$$ just by average beer fans that'll try anything new and cheap enough. If they'd do a SLIGHTLY lighter version of their Cream Ale I suspect this would have a larger following.


Hofbrau Bavaria Light Reserve g l 5.0 157 Ernste Kulmbacher produces this somewhat uncommon 'Light Reserve' that is light straw yellow with a head of large bubbles. It is refined with nice flavor containing Pils and fruit components of the best kind. There is no disclosure as to caloric content so we cannot be sure it is really light in that sense. This is a first rate beer that one should try regardless of classification. It is nice choice with or after a rich meal.


I.C. Light (Iron City Light) 
RATING: 4.0
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
I.C. stands for Iron City and naturally it is made in Pittsburgh. Since 1861 Pittsburgh Brewing has made beers under the I.C. name. This light is very pale yellow and has a short-lived head. Flavor was indeed surprising in that it had some; a weak but actually discernable Pils taste along the authentic style lines. Becks has accompished this as have a few others. One does not expect this accurate result from a mass market American label. Even at the verified 96 calories per bottle it is amazingly sweet and lightly hopped. Re-reviewed in 2008 the label now says 96 cals with 2.8gw carbs. Most importantly the finish does not go weak or thin. This is a very good choice with heavy sauces or spicy dishes. We'd drink it again.

Johnson's Authentic Amber Ale u la 3.0 557 Charlotte NC Tim and Susan Johnson of Charlotte NC produce this amber which is a pale 'punkin color and has a small lasting head. First taste conveys some nice yet mild malt and hops notes but it quickly enters into a dry and thin finish. Having been treated to some excellent ales of late from Rogue and others we find this one sadly lacking. Even your basic Bruin and Miller Reserve amber products carry more flavor and with greater complexity to keep one amused. This is clearly an AMBER LIGHT in our book although even the Cardinal Amber Light was more deep and pleasing. We like to encourage newer companies so we hope they'll merely turn up the flavor two notches and thrill us next year. Not recommended as is this year at $7-8.00.


Keystone Amber Light u la 3.0 502 Golden CO Coors is so full of surprises. An Amber beer from Coors at a price of a whole $1.99 for 6 cans. That has to be the fantasy a few million people. $1.99 is what we paid on special at a Food Lion. The bright pumpkin-amber beer has little carbonation but there is actually enough malt flavor to let you know it has color before seeing it. This is no Cardinal Amber Light nor it is VERY LIGHT at 120 calories (many are 95-110) but the effort is promising. Even at a regular price of a whole $4.00 (gasp!) this is a really decent American value. There are many ambers we love better but this is a truly excellent alternative for the malt liquor and bargain brew college set. It is more interesting than all the Coors products except the recent Fests.


Keystone Light u l 3.0 172 BEST LOW BUDGET LIGHT BEER 1993 This is an economy version of Coors Light in our opinion. The lined cans may not acheive bottle quality taste but it is sure better than most economy lights and nearly all the malt liquors. Your author cannot see any reason not to buy this over Coors Light UNLESS one wants bottles OR the only store open is small and does not carry this. In 12 packs this is a fine value for the waist-conscious drinker.


Kirin Light c l 2.0 179 This the beer world equivalent of making Hondas in Ohio. This Japanese Kirin product is made by Molson in Vancouver - you have to study the lovely Japanese art label to tell. Unfortunately this is not a good light. This Nipponadian hybrid might please some light fans if served SUPER cold. Its first taste is very bland but when one hopes for a pleasant lingering flavor there is nothing but a faint medicinal hint. Stick to real Molson!


Labatt's Blue Light Pilsner c l 2.0 186 We found this light Pils to be truly lightweight. The regular Labatt's Blue Pilsner was deficient in depth and this is even more so. When one matches this with a true Light Pils (namely Beck's Light) this is shown to be a very inferior beer. Although Canadian beers enjoy a good overall reputation some of their lights (including Kirin Light) are really meritless. The Light Beer field is full of competition and this one does not cut it.


Lowenbrau Light u l 2.0 197 If regular Lowenbrau of the US is boring this light version is triple dull. It gets two bottles only because it lacks the bitter watery substance of bargain lights in those thin little cans. We see no reason to try this Light more than once - as an experience. Write us if you disagree.
Michael Shea's Irish Amber u la 3.0 210 This product from Rochester NY is described as 'pub style lager'. Color is on the pale amber side and the head expires quickly. Both hops and malt flavors are quite modest at first but the finish is more hoppy. We felt that both Dark Horse and New Amsterdam Amber products were more flavorful and complex. Were it called a LIGHT AMBER and put against Cardinal Amber Light it might rate 4 bottles. As a true pub-type amber it lacks depth we expect.


Michelob Light u l 3.0 214 This and Coors Light may be the better American lights - although neither can come close to Boston Lightship as the Top American Light. But at 134 calories one can wonder if it should be classed as a True Light. Perhaps at 134 it is Semi-Light or Near-Light. Anheueser-Busch has a clear and wonderful product but not quite a clean a taste as Coors Light. It is never bitter and is agreeable with many foods. Best if VERY cold and for me their best is not good enough.


Miller Genuine Draft Light u l 3.0 219 The Genuine Draft product has gained popularity for its high ranking among American beers. This 98 cal light version retains much of the cold-filtered flavor and charm of the original full cal brew. It is one of the very few lights (another is Boston Lightship) that actually has character and depth of lingering flavor. We feel there is no other light with this exact taste and so it gets higher marks than expected. The color is a nice gold too. They tried to make the "MGD" acronym a household or regular word but no one would be so silly or pompous to assume anyone knew what it meant.


Miller Lite (Lite) u l 2.0 221 This is usually known by its large dark blue letters proclaiming L i t e and 'A FINE PILSNER BEER'. By European standards there really is no Pils taste left after the lightening process. It is crisp and very smooth when served very cold. While far from interesting one can say that costly Amstel Light is no better. Thus if one wants a crisp watery light this is a fine value. Miller Genuine Draft Light and Boston Lightship are much better choices.


Miller Lite Ice u l 3.0 222 The modern 1994 version of the popular Lite is now ice-brewed into a light yellow beer with foamy head. The 125 calories is not light by our standards - others are 90-110. It jumps from 2 to 3 bottles here as it is quite clean and doesn't add annoying flavor additives like some other cheap $3.50 ices. It is for now the only light with 5.5% alcohol - as of 3/94. While there is no hops or malt to charm it is no worse than tonic water with 5.5% vodka.


Miller Reserve Light u l 2.0 225 While Regular Reserve is the best Miller or mainstream American you might want, this light version has no purpose in our opinion. When you finally manage to find real flavor why take it away? It must be some knee-jerk marketing philosophy that every new beer must have a light counterpart. This makes as much sense as marketing a 4-cylinder Corvette. Stick with the strength and never dilute it! Cheaper lights are just as appealing.


Milwaukee's Best Light u l 2.0 228 Perhaps the finest light econo-brew. Available in can or tons of cans this cheap-lite is neither costly nor complicated. Miller Light is more costly but this Miller product delivers punch to the brain for a minimum of greenbacks. In this age of super cheap malt beverages this is a good alternative with some quality in the price range for those of us with significant waistlines. I've actually enjoyed this brew in a tall, cold pitcher in which was poured a tallboy of Guiness to flavor it up - such a beer blending on a budget. By itself, this stuff is pure crap and piss water.


Molson Light c l 4.0 232 This beer must be classed as a SEMI-LIGHT since it has 116 calories or about 6-18 more than other well known lights. As such we would expect more flavor and in fact we do find it pleasantly mild and semi-pungent like regular Molsons. While well-crafted and clean it lacks the flavor that make Boston Lightship and Beck's Light so refreshing. It is however much superior to Kirin Light - the other light than Molson sends to us.


Moosehead Light c l 2.0 236 We'd place this alongside Kirin Light and Amstel Light as products which have no reason to be imported. There are plenty of watery lights from America if one wants to be completely bored - and save a few bucks in the process. On those busy football weekends it seems to be in plentiful supply when other imports sell out to the bare walls. It has some flavor and is crisp. It might be a good choice for a Jalapeno eating contest.


Natural Light u l 3.0 239 This Anheuser-Busch is promoted as all natural and 'smooth, clean, re- freshing'. It is vastly better than A-B's budget Busch Light. At 20 calories below Michelob Light it is more of a TRUE LIGHT. NL is not a weak watery type of light but has a nice tinge of roasted smoky flavor. We put this 110 cal against Miller Genuine Draft Light and liked GDL with its import- like pungent flavor. They are very different but compete directly by price.


New Amsterdam Amber Light u la 0.0 242 While we have yet to taste and rate this 1992 NY release it is listed here since it should be considered by light beer enthusiasts. New Amsterdam in regular Amber trim has enough flavor to make a light version desirable. If it works half as well as Cardinal Amber Light it deserves your attention. The brewer has promised the press retention of amber color and a full body. Calories will hover around 95. It is aimed at us who hate unflavored lights.


Nordic Wolf Light c l 3.0 246 The name implies a Northern European origin but it is comes from a sophisticated Guelph Ontario firm called Silver Creek. It is a 110 calorie light with Canadian quality and lingering after-taste of some refined complexity. The marketing niche is that of a richer and more flavorful light. It it noteworthy as a light but average among Canadians. The square-shoulder bottle is art and the linen-textured label is refined.


O'Keefe Light c l 5.0 258 BEST CANADIAN LIGHT BEER 1993 This and Boston Lightship are the best lights we know of North American origin. In one phrase it is a PILS SEMI-LIGHT. The semi- comes from 109 calories which is 10% more than some lights. The pils taste is clear and reasonably deep. It will please most Pils lovers. It is very much on par with Beck's Light which carries a similar flavor. It is actually more rare than Beck's Light in our area stores. We paid $5.29 a six pack. Do try it.


Old Milwaukee Light u l 1.0 260 This thin and light econobrew was once consumed in mass quantities by college students and us ordinary working class. Today many people seem to find Milwaukee's Best Light and other budget labels to be more flavorful. I suspect a malt with more alcohol and perhaps a lower price would be more pleasant - although perhaps having 80% more calories.


Old Raleigh Light Amber Ale u la 4.0 821 Raleigh NC Described as 'mellow, light-bodied and subtly sweet' this dark golden ale has a lasting head of average size. Pale and 'German-style brumalt' is used to create a moderately malted ale with weaker themes of hops bitterness and sweet- ness. This is surely miles ahead of your average American light; amber or other- wise. However judged against the Cardinal Amber Light standard (unfortunately hard to find) this is perhaps too simple a beer. The malt dosing surely makes for a smooth, easy drinking beer. Reviewers noted 'clearly quality in the malts ...somehow failing to satisfy...why pay $7 when I can cut down $7 beer with a $3 bargain and get the same result for less?' and 'not for the enthusiast...my light-loving neighbor thought it taste funny...not sure who this is for?'


Olympia Light u l 2.0 263 Like the regular version this is usually found in 12 packs and can be rather hard to find. It is really no better nor no worse than most econolights. We see no real reason for this label except to compete with Busch Light and Milwaukee's Best Light. We'd suggest Miller Genuine Draft Light or Michelob Light for a few dimes more or perhaps Coors Light on special if a budget must be keep. If affordable and available Boston Lightship is a top US light.


Pete's Pacific Dry u l 3.0 273 This is really Pete's Light, Wicked Light, Lightly Wicked or something. Even with some of the most artistic labeling in the business it was not up to taste standards of Boston Lightship. If one wants a true dry beer but with lots of flavor (non-light dry) we'd recommend the splendid Asahi Draft Dry. If one wants a good light try Becks Light or Boston Lightship or Coors. This proved to be a real disappointment and should be re-crafted for more flavor.


Rolling Rock Light u l 2.0 302 As much as we liked regular RR this Light variant is almost totally without merit. At 104 calories it should have some flavor for at least a second or two on the tongue. Sadly it does not. It is absolutely without any distinct flavor to separate it from watery 'beer coolers'. One would be better off with Busch Light except for the nice green bottle. This and Amstel Light show that solid companies can fail at the light game. 

Samuel Adams Light 
RATING: 3.5
Boston, Mass. and other places
If we can believe the warmed hype on the TV commercials, it took the good folks at SA 2 whole years of development to be happy with something called a light with their name on it. Unlike most lights this one has flvor and color. It has the Big Four, German-approved ingredients and no adjuncts like rice or corn. It is 119 calories and 9.6g of carbs per bottle - not exactly a super-light MGD 64 calories. Miller admits this ultra-light MGD is just 2.8% alcohol so it's not what I want to evaluate here in general. SA Light is the Rolls Royce...umm Rolex...no Samuel Adams of light beers. It's dark amber-gold and looks terrific in any clear drinking vessel. The head is big, lasting, and off-white. It is strong enough for the Noble hops to be apparent; though in a dose too puny to lift my spirits at least. (I need more hops than New Guinea tree frog on crack). It is not frail, "weak as water", or devoid of all beer-like qualities as so many in section. There is a purpose for light beers (skinny girlfriends comes to mind) but I cannot think of any that apply to my consumption. Overall: A very good, solid run at a goal that I understood more than I respect. Everyone needs a light (the omniscient marketing gods and all) and I will forgive them, then sip at another SA shrine.

Sapphoro Light j l 4.0 335 This is probably the best known of Japanese lights in the West. It has a German quality and moderate strength not unlike the Japanese fascination with German autos. The mouth of the bottles are amongst the finest available as they are well-crafted and easy on the lips. This is clearly a distinct product in packaging but the flavor can be compared to several other lights.
Schaefer Light u l 1.0 341 There is not much worse than a beer that is flavorless and bitter at the same time. Even Busch Light proved to be less offensive. What taste remains is largely unpleasant. If there is such a group as the Beer Police they ought to close down this part of the factory.


Southpaw Light (tm) u l 3.0 709 Milwaukee WI Plank Road describes this light as 'double-hopped' which does not seem to fit a 'light' image. The package assures one that it is 'one-of-a-kind' and 'full flavored'. Color is very pale yellow. The head is thin and short- lived. Good news and bad news. The good news is that it's drinkable. The flavor is more semi-sweet than hoppy but it's no damn awful Pabst Light; we did pay $3.99 on an intro special. Bad news is that it should have been hopped to the 12th power if this is double hopping. We did like the two kangeroos (double hopping kind). If the price holds it would be great but we doubt it. Reviewers noted 'light look though 123 calories...only decent because its sweet...no real hops theme' and 'pleasant, refreshing, but too weak to excite anyone'.


Stroh's Light u l 3.0 379 This light in bottles or cans shows some promise. While it is not flavorful like those we rated higher it does not have any bad aftertastes like the very cheap lights. If one is on a budget and wants a light this might be a fine choice. We would however suspect that something like Keystone Dry would be a better choice if one wanted a nice crisp econobeer. Miller Genuine Draft Light in cans is a good value with lots of nice flavor.


Watney's Light e l 5.0 393 BEST BRITISH LIGHT BEER The Stag Brewery of London has produced one of the top light beers and done so on only 96 calories. The $7 price tag and its relative rarity in our NC stores are problems. This is a Pils Light with a subtle but still enjoyable flavor of great refinement. Far from a water-downed Pils (which we tried for comparison) this product retains an interesting pungency and moderately long aftertaste. Beck's Light is different but is the closest comparison we know.


Wurzburger Hofbrau Light g l 3.0 409 We doubt they've been making a light beer since 1643 but at least SOME age- old skill shows through in this product. Color is pale pilsy yellow with a full head and eager carbonation. The first taste is light, sweetish, and fruity but not overwhelmingly a LIGHT PILS. Finish is dry and weak. To us Becks Light offers much more flavor in a LIGHT PILS. At $8.49 a six pack we had hoped for more pleasure. A case of Keystone Dry would give more joy.


Copyright 2000. TCR Press. All Rights Reserved.

 

  

LAGER - PILSNER, KOLSCH AND OTHER GOLDEN STYLES

For convenience I have grouped a number of golden styles in one section and you purists will hate me for it. They serve most markets as one entity and compete like a Mustang to a Camaro and a BMW to a Mercedes. 

But let's take a second to them some justice. First of all, the styles overlap much in the American micro-world as they are not as bound by history, convention, law, etc. as the European. Most of these straw yellow beers are similar but traditionally the Kölsch from Cologne (Köln), Germany differs from the Czech Pilsner in being 1) less bitter, 2) being top-fermented at warm temps, 3) sometimes more fruity and sweet than a Pils but not very sweet like cheap Pils, 4) light to medium body, delicate and bright and refreshing by intention, and 5) sometimes with rich malts for a biscuty note.  Sünner from Cologne for one is rather malty to me while others like Gilden are more hoppy. They are governed by the Kölsch-Konvention when produced in the original county. 

 

 

3 Horses h rlp 4.5 942 Breda Bierbrouweij de 3 Hoefljzers has been making lager since 1628 and the color and head are your basic Pils. Flavor is moderate-full with a very nice dry fruity character not found in some of the more famous lagers from this land. Notes of malt are nicely apparent and it makes for a rather fine choice for your next Pils taste test. It could beat a few of the German names if you try it unlabeled. One reviewer noted 'it has a light, clean feel but yet is fully flavored...stands out for me'. 

Abita Andygator Helles Doppelbock
RATING: 4.5
Abita Springs, LA
A double-bock being in the golden section? Even the weaker doppelbocks of commerce are at least amber and these malty from first sniff. This is golden and nothing darker. The key to understanding it is the Helles part of the name. This is a stronger Helles at 8.0% and frankly I'd have named it the Doppelhelles and left out the confusing bock reference. The lace here is good but the head did not last long for me. The flavor is rich and the higher ABV actually lets you know you about the experience something special - even if the ornately painted bottle with a modern art version of a golden gator jaw did not get your attention. At $6 per 650ml (May 2009), the value is tremendous. It is a "sticky" (ie. high gravity) brew, slightly sweet at times, other times given off hominy malt flavors of a real bock, good cereal flavors, strong almond, faint fruit tending towards vanilla and grape knee-high, then reaching down to snap you with some toothy hops. Hints of caramel come out from mid note to back. Watch those soft taste buds and fingers! The finish grips a bit more firmly into the second glass with bitter hops. I rather like Abita experimenting the big bottle, special product market. They've done well in the microbrew market and going premium should be easy for them. It offended some friends of mine, badly confused even a couple of very experienced tasters, and delighted the majority. This brew is different, controversial for sure, worth them doing (ABSOLUTELY AND FOR CERTAIN), too "all over the map" for some purists, and about as easy to classify as a digital collage of Dennis Rodman images set to a 0.5 second interval. It is mislabeled as a "Doppelbock" with or without the Helles prefix. I judge beers as they are for what they happen to be. Andygator is a fun rollercoaster and just as disturbing at times. In Louisiana where Gumbo is improvized 12 million ways all this crazy stew of a brew passes for sanity.

Acadian Pilsner
RATING: 3.0
New Orleans, LA
Made by a Brasserie D'Acadie the label emphasizes a pure ingredient formula using only pale malt and Saaz hops. Color is light-medium yellow with a pale Pils-type head of some duration. Flavor is on the lighter side of moderate though occasional notes of fruit and hops assert themselves. Since they take the liberty to compare themselves to pure, original Pilzner Pils we can only rate this attempt as weak. Nothing from Czechoslovakia (since WWII at least) has been this thin. If one is used to Bud and Michelob claiming to be Pils styles then this product might tempt. But no true Pils fan is going to buy this. 

Aldaris Luksus Lager
RATING: 3.5
Aldaris, Latvia
A classic Pils in all appearance, the bottle strikes one as very different. The embossed bottle does not a label in the center (neither front nor back) but the complex logo is allowed to shine and glow as it should. High marks for presentation. The label is partly a small decal on the bottom and the large, asymmetrical cream foil on the top but not covering the cap. The ABV is 5.2% and they've been around since 1865. It is a moderate Pils in strength, not to my full-blown Pils preference but I'll grade it on the moderate theme for what is happens to be. It is a must serve very cold as one bottle near ambient (and I usually test some of all of the a product at higher temps) gives some rough, unkind notes but nothing really hideous. Coldness is a must - that's not too much to ask for a Pils. I was trying to find out more about this brewing and Googling "Luksus lager" produced a small paid aid for Lexus vehicles. (Who says the Google folks are always brilliant!? Maybe the word lager would have been a clue I didn't want a faux German car, guys). It's an okay product but nothing to write home or go shopping about.

Anyhow, I finally got to their website and found out they're the largest brewery in Latvia and one of the the largest in all the Baltic region. I really dig their old, original building which would be a delight for any town. They produce 48 beverages that including bottled waters, mineral waters, cocktails, and energy drinks. The Carlsburg beer line is part of this same company now. I liked best their statement of Business Principles which I may borrow from some day if ever called upon to write the same - very nicely thought out and brief.

Aldaris Zeltus Premium Lager
RATING: 4.5
Aldaris, Latvia
I love this product for the glowing embossed bottle with a label that just plain gets out of the way of real bottle art. They have oak leaves, grain sheaves, dates, names, and much more detail. Hold this bottle up to a bright light and any artist or photography amongst you will be impressed. Kudos once again. While I thought their Luksus Lager had some rough, crude bits it had a decent basic recipe with potential. Is this a true premium version which makes the Luksus Lager something they should have left at home? I'm going to say yes on this and not with too much emphasis because I know how marketing goes. Everyone in American and Europe will try BOTH labels (all their labels in fact) at least once and in that is three fortunes for somebody. I once had a marketing guru tell me to "get 10,000 people to buy anything once a year" and you'll get rich. Make them happy? Not important. Just get people to try you once and not complain. If I stuck to the Aldaris website Business Principles I'd leave the Luksus Lager home and go with the stronger Premium Lager product. One label of anything really great is enough and this is a superb, refined product on par with many Germans and better than some of them. I suspect someone wanted to move with a full, wide import line and see what happened. For my tastes, this is the one ready for Western World primetime but fortunes are made with other logic and marketing fun. You can't prove me wrong with money but a corporation is known not for their average quality but their weakest products. Go with quality and the rest (including the money) takes care of itself. I'm jumping off the Pils Box...preaching over...for a page or two.

Altenmunster Premium g rlp 4.5 932 Marktoberorf This Bavarian Pils is made by Sailer and we would have liked to have a sample of their Sailer Pils to compare with it. Unfortunately no one found any. The ceramic and rubber capped bottles and labels were not up to usual German quality - the cap was badly painted and the label ink rather pale. However it is the contents that really count and it was quite enjoyable. This is one beer which does better compared to other Pils than tasted by itself. Its qualities are more apparent this way. Flavor is moderate-rich Pils from a pale yellow color with big white head. Some nice earthy, malt notes are apparent when contrasted to other European Pils. It may not be favored over the standards (Urquell, Spatan, Gambrinus) but is a very respectable alternative.

Amarcord Prima Donna Italian Lager Beer
RATING: 3.5
Romagna and San Marino, Italy
The bottle's cream and electric blue are a different approach and the 4.7% ABV was surprising too. The pale-faced movie star chick on the label is appealing though no Sophia Loren. It is made from the Big Four ingredients and I'll assume that get's it some respect in Germany. This "Oscar-winning beer" (did that copyright deal get checked out before coming to America?) is named in honor the great director of film Federico Fellini who grew in the region where this brewery exists between Romagna and San Marino, between the splendid hills and the wonderful sea. Amarcord is one of his most praised works and I must say they could have used much more graphic, man-baiting images on their beer label. Google "Amarcord" with the family safe filter off and you'll get my point.

The color and head are classic, aroma faint but solid. Flavor is low-mid Pils in strengh, best very cold as one of those "golden summer refresher" classes of beer that is quite worse at room temp. In this crowded market I like their graphics, their approach, the truly great man they honor, etc. but in the final analysis it's only about the beer. 

Ambar Dos Especial sp rlp 3.0 493 Zaragoza We saw the word Cerveza and the red label with 'Ambar'. Sounds like an amber Mexican beer? Good idea. No. This rare Spanish brew is not amber but is a nice dark gold with eternal carbonation. First aroma and Pils taste are sharply a 4 bottle Pils. Unfortunately the finish trails off into a watery dry place that is really a shame. This beer has so much potential with an authenthic Pils theme. It just stops a bit too short like a great racecar exploding 300 feet from the checked flag or a grand symphony missing the last 100 notes. The first Pils notes are most refreshing when very cold but the finish is muddy and weak. Perhaps our standards have gotten too high with a few hundred Pils in the databank. This one needs a polished finish.

Andes Pilsner v rlp 4.0 22 This Pils is from Caracas-Barquisimeto in Venezuela and is in our experience harder to find than Venezuelan Polar beer. Carbonation is strong and color more medium gold than most German Pils. Flavor is rather sweet for a Pils and decidedly more fruity than typical Mexican Pils. The finish is dryish but not as crisp and clean as it might be. It is a better choice than Corona but just a bit inferior to Red Stripe. Starts sweet and finishes dry.

Arctic Bay c rlp 3.0 23 By all accounts this blue and white box of Canadian ale is the same as Glacier Bay in an otherwise identical box. We have seen 12 bottles for as low as $6.25. It is good without being really special. As Canadian beers go it is very affordable. Some will disagree but we think Keystone Dry and perhaps Stroh's are better econobrews for your 12 pack purchase. We'd like to hear what you users feel about this one.

Asahi Super Dry j rlp 5.0 24 BEST JAPANESE DRY BEER We found the best description of this on the label - 'stain smoothness'. While many dry beers are a bit light or less flavorful this is outstand- ingly complex. There is nothing quite like it. One tastes hints of Pilsner flavor but it is more crisp and smooth than most Pils. The slim brown long- neck has a smooth mouth that like Kirin is one of the best designs for human mouths. It is probably the best Japanese beer in US supermarkets.

Astra Pilsener g rlp 4.0 25 Made the same people who brew St. Pauli this German Pils has typical color and short-lived head. The 11.2 oz. bottles sold for just $5.99 per six - a buck or two less than some less common Germans at our source. It proved very aromatic and pleasantly flavored. While very enjoyable in early palate the finish was a bit ragged andoff. At times there were metallic notes but nothing too bad. It must be served very cold to keep it on track.

Athenian gr rlp 4.0 469 Athens This product of Greece has a delightful Pils flavor on par with most of the mass market German Pils rated at 4 bottles. Unlike so many European Pils this is true to the original tradition standardized by Urquell and Gambrinus of Pilsen. The color and head are average but the flavor is quite refined. It earned just 4 bottles as we feel the flavor is just one small notch down from the Urquell standard. Otherwise it is a real treat.

Ba M'ba Bien Export 33 Vi rlp 3.5 600 This has been one of the most controversial beers we've had our panel review. It's origin in Vietnam is explanation #1. Secondly, it is third world sort of brew selling for $10.99 or more per sixpack of SMALLER 11.2 oz bottles. Issue #3 is that it's not a very polished Pils and that average place is one really crowded field. Bgi Tien Giang's label name of Ba M'ba is pronounced 'Ba Me Ba' according to them. The local meaning is prosperity and happiness. One reviewer thought that sounded a bit like 'Bomb Me Bob'. Enough on that. This Pils does have flavor and the finish could be a 4 bottle with changes. The first flavor notes and occasional hints thereafter have offensive crude elements that remind one of some Chinese and old Soviet beers. Please write.

Bavaria Claro Beer
RATING: 3.5
Lieshout, The Netherlands
Their website deals with my first reaction up front and quickly: "Dutch brewery. Spanish name? Huh?". Yes. Claro means "clear" is the name of a popular cell phone company for example. The Brewery is called Bavaria N.V. Now add German to the confusing pile. For the record, this is not "Rio Claro", a light lager from El Salvador. The $6.99 price (July 2010) suggests this is not going to be a Grolsch-class brew or will it? The aesthetics of the pour are classic Pils with a skunky-as-all-Holland aroma that does not linger much. Some nice fruit notes and faint malt comes to the fore, following by a very fruity sweetness in the later notes. Sweet Fruity Pils is the final subclassification and that is a tactic taken by now a few Mexican and Asian Pils makers to gain appeal. But is there enough depth and reward for the serious Pils lover? No. The appeal is fairly straight-forward, the fruit flavors somewhat simple and not yeast-derived in my opinion. With two or three bottles for a session, you get a bit of meritorious malt saturation but by the second bottle I was shouting for more depth on the order of any 5.0 bottle label here. The  price is right and I am as certain as Pils is golden that this recent introduction will gain a following. To say it should be admired is much different from saying it will be successful. Kias will always outsell Lamborghinis but the respect and awe factors are something altogether different. I would not call this Pils uncomplicated but in it's self-named clarity it is also too manifest and easily understood - something I only find acceptable in a Triple Imperial Pale Ale where monothematic excess is expected. It's not a bad beer but neither is a creative or really distinct one. 

Becks g rlp 4.0 27 Bremen This top German import has out-gained the other brands in recent years. It is not much better but that is like saying Mercedes is not much better than BMW ;or vice versa if you prefer!. Perhaps the foiled bottles show more prestige for some buyers. The flavor is rich but not overpowering. Even sampled 9 months before the marked freshness date is still has the Heineken style stunkiness that some love and some love to hate. Bottles of 21.6 ounces sell in 1995 for as low as $2.59 so clearly they are not aiming for that pricey Pils market that Spaten, Warsteiner, and Paulaner need. Reviewers note 'surprising pale in color but mid-strength on my Pils Scale' and 'wonderful big German suds...flavor is a bit too crude (bitter, aromatic) for everyone'.

Bitburger Pils
RATING: 4.0
The six generations of Simons in Bitburg Germany have since 1817 refined this 'most famous of German premium Pils'. Using spring water from the Eifel mountains, summer barley, and cold fermentation they have acheived a very fine and smooth Pils product. The bottle carefully notes that 45 degrees F. is ideal - much colder it can be less smooth and bitter. Large foamy bubbles become a pale yellow color. It is a touch bitter or it would be 5 bottles.

Bohemia Beer m rlp 4.0 41 This product from Cerverceria Cuauhtemoc of Monterrey is one of the harder Mexican labels to find in our area. It is pale straw yellow with a quite persistant and foamy head. The taste was a pleasant surprise with a semi- light and fruity quality. The aftertaste was a touch unrefined so it got a 1 bottle deduction. Carta Blanca is made by the same company and we found it to be superior although the flavor is quite unrelated.

Budweiser
RATING: 2.5
By many opinions this belongs with our Lager - Light group but one has to go with official classifications from time to time. People either love it or hate it. Among college age males there are often strong opinions one way or another. A little of the dislike may come from the mid-range price which is often very high at convenience stores. It is classic American and more acidic and potent than Coors products for example. Bud Dry or Bud Light are probably a better choices for serious meals. I personally find it too acidic unless a two boxes of Rolaids are handy.

Buffalo Pils u rlp 0.0 55 This Pils type beer comes from Buffalo NY since 1990. The brewmaster is a German master from Munich but this new product is expected to be only available from 12 thousand barrels in 1992. We understand that there are now over 600 outlets from NY to VA with more coming every week. An Oktoberfest and Weisse version is expected soon.
Busch Beer u rlp 1.0 56 Anheuser-Busch proclaims the all natural carbonation and ingrediants in this budget brew. It is in fact very bubbly and a newly poured class can look like Alka Seltzer. That makes it intolerable with serious meals but as a slow drinking glass it can be enjoyed. It is very pale with a ginger ale color. It is smooth tasting but the bubbles can render it feeling more heavy and crude. It is not for the serious beer fan.

Cardinal Lager (Helles/Pale Beer) / rlp 4.0 60 This product of Switzerland comes in nice easy-open boxes and is one of very few imports to have a screw-off cap. Color is pale yellow, head very foamy, and carbonation long. Flavor is medium-flavored Pils at first taste but it gives a mid palate of real quality lager and a dryish finish. The six 11.1 oz. bottles cost us $9.00. If you're more PC than your PC the 90% recycled glass and recycled box will please too. A good solid Pils if price is no factor.

Caribe w rlp 3.0 61 This Trinidad West Indies brew has a dry German quality with an aftertaste that is bitter but barely unpleasant. It is best served supercold and with food. The clear bottles have plastic multicolor sleaves that are unique and well formed. Quality is clear but the bright plastic package may not appeal to all. It must be tried. The bulbous and ribbed neck reminds one of a mold for condoms! This could be a very fine beer with some finely tuned flavor.

Carlsberg
RATING: 4.0

This product of Copenhagen Denmark is imported by Anheuser-Busch. The later fact arose our curiosity. Was A-B admitting someone else might make a beer as good or better - or was this just a money-making use of gold 'Imported' marketing. Color and head were typical Pils but flavor was a bit temperature sensitive with a range from bitter to pleasant. The finish had a few rough notes on the metallic side for a single bottle deduction.

Carlsberg Elephant rlp 5.0 63 This Danish product arrives courtesy of Anheuser-Busch. It is a typical Pilsy golden with prolific carbonation. First taste proves a bit nippy or even spicy. Flavor is pleasant at mid palate and sweetness gives way to a dry finish. It is superior to regular Carlsberg according to all our panel. It is labeled a malt liquor due to higher (5.7%) alcohol content. We'd still prefer a Spaten or Urquell Pils but this will surely please.

Carta Blanca m rlp 5.0 64 This Mexican beer from Cerveceria Cuauhtemoc of Monteray is one of those flavorful smooth beers of the highest quality. It compares favorably with Red Stripe and several premium American labels. Chihuahua is from the same brewery but this more costly ($6.50 vs. $4.40) product is far more satisfactory when cost is no object. It is very compatible with spicy foods. Like many flavorable beers it is also excellent when barely cool.

Castlemain XXXX Export Lager u rlp 3.0 66 This beer is 'Aussie Style' with hops grown down under. It is made by UniBev in Golden CO - the hometown of Coors. Color is pale yellow and the carbonation is fairly strong. Flavor is weak and not ever worth the $6.29 price for a brew shipped from Colorado. First flavor is sweet and faintly hopped but it will clearly disappoint a true beer enthusiast. It is no better or worse than Fosters but that is not saying much. Many $5 Mexican lagers are superior.


Chihuahua m rlp 3.0 68 From Cerveceria Cuauhtemoc of Mexico is this very popular beer. In our small informal survey people usually prefer Corona but Chihuahua is often less costly. We have seen it for as low as $3.99 per six pack. It is quality but lacks any memorable appeal or detail in aftertaste. You might call it a 'house beer' in that it goes well with dinner but is not a treat in itself. The name has inspired half a dozen good jokes. 

Cold Spring Export Beer u rlp 5.0 70 This lager comes from Cold Spring Minnesota but is apparently exported as the name and large PRODUCT OF USA labels would indicate. As lagers go it is not strong yet it has a malt flavor unlike others in this database. That very pleasant taste nearly defies description but has strong elements of chocolate (really) and exotic fruits. The color is a medium semi-clear golden with a semi-persistant head. While not rich it is a very nice chance of pace.


Colders 29 u rlp 3.0 71 This new Miller product is 'cold aged at 29 degrees' (hence the name) and is said to have a smooth and distinctive taste. As an econobrew (we paid $2.59) it is better than most. The very bright straw yellow color yielded a dry and smooth taste with some fruit hints. It reminded us of Keystone Dry and among budget beers few others are as clean and interesting. It could win over a few Coors and Coors Light lovers who have an eye on the their beer budget.


Coors u rlp 3.0 76 This is a first rate American product. It is too thin and crisp for some folks but that effect is more of clarity than thinness. The aftertaste is where the quality and complexity and satisfaction derives. Coors gets high marks if only for their insistance the product be refrigerated for every single minute without exception. Rumor has it that $1 million in Coors family cash went to Ollie and the Contras. Thanks for your support!? Strangely the Coors name by 2007 has become pretty equal to Coors Light and less associated with their slightly flavorful offerings. It's a case of a company so obsessed with quality control, computers, automation, post-production environmental standards, and money they forgot what they were making. A Ford Focus with 0.004% defects is not a great Ford. A great Ford is a Mustang GT, and Expedition, and Ford GT. Coors has lost their identity and we can only imagine what all that money and talent could do if they decided to explore real beer and something known as "flavor".


Coors Extra Gold u rlp 3.0 79 This gold-labeled Coors is marketed as 'full-bodied, robust' draft beer. It retains the crisp clarity one associates with Golden Colorado but has more depth - but it not robust - a term we think belongs to stout and amber beer. It has been one of America's best mass-market premium beers but we think that Miller Genuine Draft has a more interesting and complex taste. If one wants a truly robust Coors product then Killian's or Winterfest are better choices.


Corona Extra m rlp 3.0 83 As the first and major Mexican beer to gain fame this became a Yuppie choice and ordinary-guy choice at the same time. The quality is clear even if the packaging is simple. The well-formed bottles are pleasant. A name identical to the apical portion of crucial male anatomy may have helped its appeal. It is widely offered and frequently on sale for very reasonable rates. Tecate and Carta Blanca are better Mexican beers but cost around 50% more.


Crystal Lager cz rlp 4.0 490 Ceske Budejovice Sampson Brewery in the Czech Republic makes this lightly flavored Pils in pint German-style bottles that make it appear to be a wheat beer. It is not. The carbonation is so furious that the bottles are a nightmare to open - and we tried using all the usual forms of care and caution. It is aromatic and nothing like a good Urquell or Gambrinus Pils with their rich flavors. Still it is not as thin a Pils as the excellent Becks Light. There is a note or two of flavor we cannot really pin down but it makes the taste slightly unique. At $1.69 per pint it is a superb value and we recommend you try it. If you Pils interests run on the light yet flavorful side this may please.

DAB Original g rlp 5.0 91 Dortmunder Actien-Brauerei (DAB) should not be confused with cross-town competitor Dortmunder Union. This Dortmund product lacks the Pilsner taste of DU and is a good deal more like Heineken in taste. DU and DAB compete in very distinct taste groups. All Heineken lovers owe themselves a taste of this more rare and slightly more costly label. It remains one of the best Europ- ean labels with pungent lively flavor and a clean crisp aftertaste.

Darryl's Original Pig Pounder Lager u rlp 2.5 575 Dubuque IA Dubuque is getting to be a curious place. Besides this Pig Pounder that city also gives us the Simpatico Amber and Wild Boar. This product from Dubuque Brewing Co. came to us in 473ml bottles and had a medium-dark golden color. The head was a bit thin. Flavor was almost like a bargain rack Pilsoid brew but it had enough of a lively finish to get a half bottle extra confidence. While we can't recommend it (stick with Wild Boar if any pig theme is appeal- ing) our $1.89 expenditure did produce a cute little collectible ; most guys know girls who collect 'pig stuff'.

Dinkel Acker Pils (CD) g rlp 5.0 97 From the same city that gives us Mercedes and Porsche comes a high performance pils of the most elegant craftsmanship. It is the typical light yellow of a Pils but slightly cloudy. It is strong for a Pils and only Gambrinus would be comparable in our test here. It is a touch sweet but not with quite the same lager aura of Gambrinus. It might be subclassed as a SWEET RICH PILS as it is nothing like Dortmunder or Pilsner Urquerll. Stuttgart's best.
Dock Street Bohemian Pilsner u rlp 5.0 101 This is perhaps the most orange of any cloudy Pils we have tried. Carbonation is long and moderate. In the original Bohemian or Czech style this beer is a true delight of taste equal to any Czech or German effort. It demands a try with Gambrinus and Spaten's finest. It is even rich enough to lure away a fan of rich Hefe-Weisen beers. For authentic taste it is certainly at the top of American bottled Pils. Superby sweet and with some ale-style fruit notes.
Dortmunder Union g rlp 5.0 104 This Pilsner style is easily one of the best of its class. While not every- one may enjoy the cereal taste of a pils, this is a very high quality beer. Flavor is very complex with smooth, sweet, bitter, cereal, and pungent tastes available to the tastebuds. While their is some transitional bitterness that is rarely unpleasant and overall this beer is compatible with all types of meals. This is one beer that proves the merits of complex German flavor.
Dos Equis Beer m rlp 4.0 106 This premium Mexican is a clear amber of the color of ice tea. The head is surprisingly short-lived at all temps we tried. Like an ice tea it is also quite sweet. While clean tasting and sweet it also lacks a certain amount of complexity. At about $5 per 6 bottles it is better than some Canadian imports at $5. It is very compatible with spicy foods like most sweet beers are. A touch more flavor and a longer head would give it 5 bottles for us.
Dos Equis Special Lager m rlp 4.0 107 Dos Equis is one of the finest Mexican beers and this version is even finer. The green and gold foil label are as fine as most Europeans and not crude like some Mexican brands. Brewed and bottled by Cerveceria Moctezuma this lager has a complex and pleasantly bitter aftertaste. It is neither too bold not too weak and is suitable for drinking alone or with meals. It is not a traditional European lager and lacks that level of satisfaction. 

Einbecker Brauherren Premium Pils
RATING: 4.0
Einbeck, Germany
This 4.9% ABV Pils comes in shortish, square-shouldered bottles of 11.2 oz. - and to me that is one afront that's hard for even the finest tasting Pils to get past. Big, bubbly head, long lasting, very pale straw yellow glow - all the classic signs are there of excellence. Flavor is mid strength with some very interesting grain flavors, tending towards a fuller strength in the finish and after a couple of them have stuck to your tastebuds. Premium it is even if distributed without any generosity. It is very well made and the various notes generally agree with each other, passing from flavor to flavor, never ragged but at some seconds or another a little dull. One friend of mine found some medicinal notes that were troubling but they quickly subside into the finish. Colder temps seem to eliminate those problems. Given the number of quality Pils on the market, the less-than-icy flavor flaws (though slight) and the smaller portions give this one a lower value than I suspect it might pour over in the Germany from a tap.

Estrella Galicia Especial 7 rlp 4.5 834 BEST SPANISH IMPORT TO USA 1996 La Coruna, Spain This Pils from Spain is the typical light yellow with a very white head of outstanding length. Flavor is moderate to full Pils type with a nature that is semi-sweet and a finish a slight bit dryer. It is easily on par with any major German Pils for us the price was very competitive ($1.59 for 11.15 fl. oz). Reviewers declared it was 'authentic to the style...highly refreshing...no real problems other than being rare' and 'sweet and fully lagered...welcome import though the Germans will probably out advertise them'.

Fiedlers Pils
RATING: 5.0
This unpasteurized Pils comes in a wonderful stoneware crock (stein-like jug) with resealable hardware like Grolsch. Color & head are typical German pils. The label describes it accurately as AROMATIC PILS and indeed it has a higher aroma and flavor than ordinary Becks or DAB. It is equal to Urquell but less full than Gambrinus. While you only get 1 pint for nearly $5.00 the stoneware is collectible and worth $5.00 itself. Perfect Pils and perfect container.

Flying Horse Royal Lager
RATING:
Bangalore, India

This Indian lager arrives in very thick, brown tinted 350ml bottles with a nice gold foiled flying horse label. This UB or United Breweries product clear, light-medium yellow with a lasting near white head. Flavor is full and rather smoky for a Pils. In fact it reminds us something of Golden Eagle Lager, another smoky, Pils-like lager from India.

 

Foster's a rlp 3.0 118 Those super tough blue-gold-white-red cans could serve as industrial drums. Any guy who can crush one on his head must be rock-headed jock. Flavor is imported quality with smoothness and worldclass enjoyment. It has a light-like body and shares nothing with Australia's British heritage. This Melbourne wonder has top marketing at auto races. The convenient $1.50-$2.50 25 oz. can has become a niche classic.

Furstenberg g rlp 3.5 593 The traditional script on the label and package leads one to think the name begins with a well known 4-letter word. This Germany Pils is highly aromatic and very flavorful. The head is large, white foamy, and most persistant. A beer in this classification has hundreds of competitors and so our reviewers opinions and comparisons vary widely. To one it was 'crisp quality but not very interesting' while to another it was simply 'not necessary'. A third felt it was 'one of the best in the mid-strength Pils group but to me far less desirable than a true Czech Pils'. Another noted 'an idiosyncratic fin- ish with some uncomfortable flavor notes'. The head and color gave nearly universal perfect marks for presentation. Not recommended at the $8 price.

Gaffel Kölsch
RATING: 4.0
Köln, Germany
Just like Champagne, the Kölsch name in a so-called Appellation Controlee that's protected by Euro law. Only stuff from and near Köln (Cologne) Germany can be called by the name. Cologne as another product is quite another thing by law altogether. Most beer fans consider it a sub-style of the basic ancient European Pilsner style. While the style usually comes in a stronger, sweeter, fruitier, less bitter version of the general Pils style, this Gaffel product is more bitter than many German Pils products on the market. It is lightly sweet, moderate to full in flavor, moderately fruity, and very rewarding served quite cold. It is lagered in the modern variant. Color and head are standard, classic Pils. It has more crude bitterness and roughness in the finish than one need tolerate at any price. I doubt they will change for me or you but I will state what is obvious to me and leave it at that.

Gambrinus
RATING: 5.0
This Czech beer is a true Pilsner as it comes from Pilsen Czechoslovakia and as such it invites comparison with cross-town rival Pilsner Urquell. The 'Gam' label is our experience much harder to find. It is richer and fuller than Urquell as perhaps the color would indicate. It is closer to a typical German lager than Urquell. It is darker yellow than Urquell and much more cloudy (read: flavorful). First brewed in 1869. Not to be missed. It is more full-bodied and richly flavored than most under this category - but then again, don't they get to decide what is the true, original style?

Gayant La Goudale Beer
RATING: 4.0
Douai, France
This huge corked bottle would seem to be another golden Belgian upon purchase and the lack of English language on the bottle (big surprise there) does not give the average American consumer much to work with. I'm sorry Pierre there! I'm not spending $399 for Rosette Stone DVD's just to read your freakin' bottle. Yes, I did learn French in High School. NO! I forgot your language in the last twenty years because my training and your language have been pretty much...how do you say...sans valeur. The one thing I understood was 7.8% ABV and that translates well to all tonques. Pop the cork and you get skunky sweetness and no Belgian monk would do that to us would they? The color is medium yellow, darker than German Pils, the lace sparse but undying. Fans of French beer known this style as Bière de Garde where malt can be surprisingly strong though not always evident in the color. The name comes from the historical name where this very recipe was found. Flanders hops, "special malts", and such go into the rather expensive product - figure about $4-5 a mug. It is top fermented unlike most blonde lagers. I was not as impressed with the fruitiness as some people are and think the ABV overpowered them when it does not need to. 

At first sip, the ethanol bowled me over more than a giant beer bong full of Orval. The carbonation mellowed it all out in a strange way like a high carbonated soft drink does with the acid of a citrus drink. A hard drink becomes a soft drink - rather odd experience all this though not entirely new I must admit. There are some nice fruit notes, banana being a central one

Genesee Beer u rlp 3.0 126 This Upstate New York favorite should not be confused with the green-labeled Cream Ale which more stores outside NY seem to stock. It is less creamy than the Cream Ale and less refined than the more costly 12 Horse Ale. As a bargain beer of about $3.50 a six pack of cans it is middle in quality. We would suggest the 12 Horse Ale for 75 cents to $1 more. This regular is not very exciting and one can certainly find smoother tastes in the price range. 


Goldhorn Club rlp 5.0 134 BEST BEER FROM EASTERN EUROPE 1994 From Pivovarna Lasko Yugoslavia comes this nice beer dressed in black foil with beautiful and ornate gold foil crests. This 150 year tradition is bright golden with a large full head. It is very hard to place its flavor but at the same time it has no flaws. There are some hoppy and spicy elements that finish with long and determined smoothness - yet it is not a lager. Like several Yugoslavian cabernets they are MUCH better than most Westerners will expect.

Greenshields Pilsner u rlp 3.0 601 Raleigh NC Although we are fond of our hometown brewery not a full mile from where this review originates, this product is not up to snuff and we must say so. Color is classic Pils. There is virtually no carbonation in bottled form. The head is pure white of very minute foamy bubbles. The flavor, whether very icy or getter warmed at dinner is quite deficient in depth and carries a few off notes for most of our panel. One said it was 'clearly not authentic to the style as advertised and in fact was not as well made as the premium Mexican Pils'. When the price (even close to origin) is $9.49 per six we can find no merit to try it. Their draft is nicer and that is the best we can say. Even a first rate German Pils is $1-2 less. Wild Boar is a very fine US-made Pils.

 

Grolsch Premium Lager
RATING: 5.0
A favorite of serious beer lovers at least in the early years of their taste trek. Experienced drinkers like it but not always would give it our 5.0 bottles. It has the quality 'rich full bodied' flavor of a good European but more so than most German or Dutch brands. The distinct 'skunky' aroma and unpasteurized taste are never unpleasant. Expect to pay at least $1 a bottle in stores and up to $3 for those special bottles with lots of hardware. A process dating from 1615 and 10 week aging shows to good advantage. It might be called Premium Premium. One can argue this belongs in the European Pale Lager category instead of a genuine Pils. The same is oft said of Heineken but on the whole they compete very closely with the more traditional, grainy Pils labels. 

Growlin' Gator Lager u rlp 4.0 146 If the 'beer with a bite' taste was not enough the gold/red painted label with an alligator in sunglasses, disclosure of 4.5% alcohol content, a best before date, and address of the UK importer would do the trick. This Sunshine State brew has a distinct aftertaste that is pleasant and very smooth - some spice we'd suspect. It is available in selected markets and we find it rather infrequently. Unique and a superb change of pace.

Guinness Gold Lager i rlp 4.0 148 This bright gold lager has a zippy initial taste but it disappoints somewhat in the lack of rich flavor. The lingering taste is smooth but we would like to have found a bit more depth. This could almost pass for a premium American beer and people will usually give different ones if asked to name it! There is no bitterness and the head is moderately short-lived. The dark forest green label and signature bottles are classy. At $7.50 per 6 in the 1990's it was not a good buy. Seems to be gone in the 2000's.

Hacker-Pschorr Munich Edelhell g rlp 4.5 616 Munich To the German beer lover the phrase 'tastes like hell' is something positive. Hell or Helles is German for 'pale' or your everyday golden drinking beer. 'Edel' is an adjective meaning precious or noble. Translation: Premium Pils. Hacker and Pschorr used to be two different brewers. After their merger they were bought by Paulaner. That's three good names dating from at least 1417. The Pils flavor is as robust as the young lady on the label - we'll end the analogy there. Our Pils experts say 'remarkably well-flavored and dry' and 'often intruding into bitter moments'. To another: 'perfection if you like a Pils authentic, acidic, and felt deep in glands' and also 'enjoyed it with a multi-course meal but proved harsh and earthy to drink on its own.'


Harpoon Pilsner u rlp 3.0 770 Boston MA This Boston brew is dark golden yellow with a lasting near white head. This is one schizophrenic beer. It has crude places of flavor interspersed with notes of carmel brilliance. You get nice Pils flavors and then suddenly a low watery place. We checked the batch and its fresh and properly refrigerated from a very reputable vendor and wholesaler. Overall it is sweeter than many Pils but it never acheives a complete, rounded flavor profile capable of recommendation. This situation often occurs when a recipe is mismade or not refined - we have no idea which. There is potential as a GOLDEN LAGER but it seems too malty and sweet to be a very authenthic PILS by European standards. A few reviewers enjoyed it and one said 'smooth, crisp, and refreshing...fair price'.

Hayward's 5000 Indian Premium Beer
RATING: 4.5
India
This is a India's most popular beer and not be confused with an Indian Pale Ale which in old times WENT to India from England instead of the the reverse. This "Crown Jewel" of Indian beers is said to be rich with lingering flavors from carefully blended ingredients - I wonder if anyone doesn't claim all this?!? Give'm a chance Larry, will ya! Lace is very long. Color, nose, and head are about Pils-typical thought I think the head is a tad larger than non-European Pils efforts. My taste buds and nose were given orders to be United Nations objective - make that really objective without politics. I was duly impressed. This is better stuff that about two-thirds of American micro Pils though no Gambrinus by any means. It is medium-strong, a hair below the potent stuff and yet richer and grainier than the middle-of-the-road approaches will clutter than market in all price ranges. It is refined without being spectacular. At $4.95 for a 650ml (November 2008) it was a decent deal but not a stunning value. If they could get economical kegs over here they might have something that would impress even the fraternity crowd. It has a sweetish finish, not overly done, and with the good grainy, Pils flavor you have a very drinkable brew here. Unlike some Pils from China, Russia, or India we tried in the 90's there are never odd, metallic, and unkempt notes in the finish. It is worthy of the Pils name (and I must say 50% of the stuff on the US market is not) and while being commendable it is not a penultimate, world class product. If this is India's most popular beer then that entire land is blessed for we in American tolerate lakes worth of pseudo-Pils, fake lager under so many familiar names. We might need to start outsourcing our mid-price Pils beer to India if they can keep their price point down.

Heileman's Old Style
RATING: 2.0
Heileman of LaCrosse WI
Colt 45 and Mickey's Big Mouth also makes a budget brew at below $3 per six. Using 'pure Artesian spring water' this is good at the price but far from the exciting. We like it better than Busch and Pabst but it does have an unpleasant edge to the taste. It is perhaps more accurate to say it is less unpleasant. Although called 'a premium lager beer' it has much room for refinement. At this price we doubt they can do it. 

Heineken
RATING: 4.0
This is the best known import to many Americans. It potent aromatic taste is matched with quality lingering flavor. In fact the word 'Heineken' is almost a synonym of quality beer itself - as in 'Joe - buy some chips and Heineken's'. Recently available in more affordable six packs of cans it is both top quality and affordable. That initial skunky taste has been many American's first introduction to the world of quality beer.
Henninger Kaiser Pilsner g rlp 4.0 155 This light yellow Pils from Germany's second largest brewery (Dortmunder Union is #1) proves immediately spicy and well-flavored. It finishes very sweet and is similar to Spartan which Henninger licenses for Greek brewing. The tiny 11.2 ounce bottles are disappointing in volume and design. It is highly drinkable but the short-lived head and tiny bottles earn it the loss of one bottle. Worth trying but Spartan offers better price and volume. The Ole Skunkster has lost some of it's charm from college days though occasionally I will succomb to one of the readily available mini-kegs, usually blending it with Guiness or something else dark and flavor-amending. I also like their 18 packs of mini-keg cans - very easy to carry and handle.

Henry Weinhard's Private Reserve
RATING: 3.0
Portland, Oregon
Since 1856 the Blitz-Weinhard brewery of Portland has made bottled brews. Henry is said to be the 'West's first brewer of premium beer'. Even with the $6.00 price this pale golden brew lacked enough flavor to please. We joked that the flavor must have been privately reserved somewhere other than in their bottles. The crested label is one of the most classy of any American beer but the proof is in the drinking. The long lace is superb for effect but the 'superior to any other' claim is ridiculous. We might class this as a SEMI-LIGHT as both malt and hops taste are very limited.

Holstein Pils g rlp 4.5 638 Hamburg",","Holstein markets their 'Premium Beer' which to our American tastebuds is a","type of Hamburg Pils. Like many German breweries they call SOME Pils a Pils","and others Premium Beer Helles or some regional name. The whole","lot vary in dryness/sweetness and flavor intensity. Here we reviewed the","one in 4-packs in a yellow main label and with green neck label. This one is","'immediately recognized as Pils with that authentic Urquell earthy nature'.","Color and head are stereotypical but the aroma is better than average. Our","panel have consumed a city reservoir worth of Pils among them and comment:","'Sharp and well-defined flavor from the first go' and 'Very assertive Pils","punch with comfortable acidity and a semi-dry finish'. Grades varied a bit." 

Iron City Premium Lager 
RATING: 4.5
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
My first experience with IC products was the shock of finding their IC Light to be a light beer that had some real Pils flavor. This "Official Beer of the Pittsburgh Nation" (is that code language for The Steelers?) is typical of the style and is very much like their light product though a faint bit fuller and with more carbo mouth feel. It is heads and tails and any number better than classic Northeastern in that it's a real Pils and not some Michelob copy with a fancy label and motto. It's solid as iron in fact, not a world-leading Pils but a very respectible one in the mid-flavor subgroup. I'd probably rather drink it all day than some of Sam Adams products for they would be too taste-drenching and intense for all day sporting events. Like an iron worker, it's serious, stable, dependable, and not perhaps a fancy specialist. One goes elsewhere for specialized, clever, custom metals. If you want to pay 2-3 times more and get absolute perfection look in another place. This is the product of careful, arduous, clearly caring brew masters who give a damn about flavor and let the profits come after that standard is met. You taste the pride here; an unwillingness to compromise that makes the big boys both big and VERY BAD. This is an unassuming, regular guy of the Pils world but a very solid, certain, and true pick. You'll like it, admire it, and come back because of value (quality to price ratio). I'm happy you didn't take a lower road. Well done IC, well done. 

Jever Original Friesland Pilsener
RATING: 4.5
Friesland, Germany
I'm not sure what "original friesland pilsener" means given the style came from another country. Perhaps it like Original Peoria Champagne or Original Albuquerque Salami? The color is light yellow with a tall ivory head with large ours. Lace is long and better than average in duration. Aroma is faint but it actually exists unlike many in this section with a watery, faux-Pils reality. I'll take their word that Friesland has made authentic Pilseners for 150 years but if not they've clear got the formula down to near perfection. Near. Germans are so good at some many things that Mercedes is now a near-Maybach and some BMW's a near-Ferrari. How we quible over minor points when it's literally all good, all impressive, and all a real value. I'll still prefer a Gambrinus but this is a solid, reliable choice in any case. I will take a case, in fact. Skunkalicious Rules!

Johnson's Springfest Pilsner u rlp 3.0 728 Charlotte NC This 'Honest Pilsner' is brewed for an arts and music festival in the Queen City of Charlotte North Carolina. One buys it in 8-pack boxes for about $9.00. Color is medium but very glowing bright yellow. The head is tall and lasting. The flavor is Pilsoidal but not authentic in our combined opinions. It is rather bitter and crude at first but shows more sophistication in the late palate with saturation effects on the same. Most reviewers felt it needed much work and was far from microbrew standards for a Pils; let alone a very strict European standard. Reviwers noted 'ragged and uneven flavor qualities...some nice and others less pleasant' and 'authentic it is not...judged by the merits of their BROWN ALE this is a disappointing.'. Far from being a contender.
KB Lager a rlp 3.0 169 KB is from Carlton & United Breweries of Sydney. In 740ml cans it is far harder to find than Fosters - we find a few cans at larger Kroger stores. It is rich gold with a full bubble-filled head and has an almost sweet flavor. It is quite smooth but is always flavorful. KB is nothing like Fosters and deserves to be bought by an serious beer lover since nothing else is exactly like it. Some of you are sure to like its smooth sweetness. 

Jones Brewing Stoney's Beer
RATING: 4.0
Smithon/Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
I have no idea how this copper-colored can of "all grain beer" showed up in the make-your-own-sixpack of my local Whole Foods store. I only review canned beer when it cannot be found in bottle form and seems to have something of a microbrew or premium aura to it. I had no idea it was Stoney's 100th Anniversary this year so I guess I here to gulp and learn. It looks Pilsoid but the head is a bit too thin for my taste. Flavor is actually present, moderate in the class, and best very cold. I now suspect it showed up at the North Carolina Whole Foods shop to passify the PA invaders in the area - just as Genny Cream Ale was asked to do a decade ago for we rough-housing, conquering New Yorkers. (I can feel the emails coming down the wire or is that the sound of me not giving a flying f*&%$). It is far above Rolling Rock if one is forced to made a comparison. It is not a bad Pils and frankly I would be happy with it if the quantities and prices were right on a certain set of tailgating dates. It is no worldbeater but gives a true presentation of the style with enough flavor to keep one engaged. They have not sold out like the majority of northeastern breweries, brewed with a slower process, got a smooth mid-strength result, and I applaude them loudly for that. Some say the bottled stuff (white and red label) is a mess and this newer copper-canned stuff is much better. Your experience will probably vary with the form and date presented. 

Their website is full of half-dressed women and even features a Stoney's Girl of the week or month or something - curiously she was very heavily clothed in winter gear and would be covered enough for most Arab countries in fact. They have a cool online store that even sells Stoneys Christmas ornaments which must be very collectible as they are too ugly for anyone to buy and therefore will prove very rare by 2045. Their glassware is rather appealing actually.

Kentucky Hemp Beer (Lexington Brewing Co)
u rlp 4.0 1203 Lexington KY Unlike the Frederick Hempen products which also employ legal hemp seeds to good effect, this Lexington product has an American Pils base. Color is pale yellow with a big, enduring white head. A happy red horse on the label holds up a foamy mug and shows his Cannabis leaf/horseshoe insignia. We might note that the Frederick folks have chosen a less explicit foliar motif which is more resemblant of garden ivies. There is certainly something different about the flavorings here but quite frankly most reviewers felt an earthy malt taste was the most apparent. We will leave room for the possibility that reviewing hemp beers is not yet an acquired art and that with time we will better appreciate this subtle chemistry at work. In the meantime: try it.

Keystone u rlp 3.0 170 This Coors product might be called Econo-Coors. It is promoted as having bottle quality taste due to specially lined cans. In this it succeeds and it becomes one of the finest budget beers made in America. It is clear and mild like any fine Coors product. The catch is that many stores only carry 12 packs and 6 packs seem to be hard to find - at least in our experience in the Southeast. It is easily one a Top 5 economy brew. Their Light label seems to be outselling in the early 2000's and that is a shame for it much flavor still.

Kirin c rlp 4.0 177 Molson of Vancouver brews and bottles this under supervision of the Japanese brewery. While we found Kirin Light to be bland and worthless this Nippo- nadian co-effort is much more pleasing. This beer is quite sweet and is nothing like other Molson beers. It is always crisp and refreshing but lacks some character found in other imports. Suntory made across Vancouver by Labatt is a finer product. It has no real flaws but neither is it really exciting. 

Kirin Ichiban c rlp 3.0 178 Molson produces this 'prime brew' under Kirin license using the 'first wort'. Color is very pale yellow with foamy head and strong carbonation. While marketed as premium only the lovely label earns that epithet. It is smooth and clean but such qualities without substantial flavor is meaningless. The finish turns sweeter but provides no lasting enjoyment. If one wants this kind of experience Keystone Dry or Molson's own Ice are better values. 

Konig Pilsener
RATING: 5.0 
Duisburg, Germany
This product of Duisburg is called 'one of the most exclusive beers of Germany'. We certainly had some trouble finding it! The green shoulder-less bottle carries a typically light yellow beer with many large bubbles to each head. As Pils go it is medium to highly flavored - just a touch less than Puntigamer Panther. It is every bit the equal of the more common Pilsner Urquell. The flavor components are quite deep and interesting. First class. 

Krakus Export Lager = rlp 4.0 181 Since 1856 the spring waters of Zywiec Poland have made this beer that only in post Cold War times (we think) has reached North American shores. The initial taste is smooth and pleasantly sweet but the lingering flavors are a bit too flat and simple to earn a higher rating. While the concept of a Polish beer may cause some Americans to laugh, Krakus is easily a better product than MOST American beers. At $5.47 it proved to be a fine value. 

Kronenbourg f rlp 4.0 182 Kronenbourg made in Strasbourg sounds like another great German beer unless you know that Strasbourg is now in history a French city. The flavor is dry and crisp with hints of Pils flavor but it could not be classed as a true full-flavored Pilsner. In fact it is somewhat like Beck's Light which is a Light Pils. The lingering taste is a bit flat and less satisfying than Beck's Light. This needs a bit more flavor and depth to earn our 5 bottles. 

Kropf Genuine German Draft g rlp 4.0 174 This product from Kassel is brewed in a tradition dating to 1859. The bottle shows the majestic cathedral near the brewery. It colors light straw yellow with a short-lived but nice head. It proved to be quite bitter yet finishing fairly dry unlike cheap bitter bears. We'd compare it to Fischer d'Alsace Bitter in this respect. That tartness is pleasant with certain foods such as gourmet cheeses. We do not recommend it for drinkling alone. A bit different. 

Kulmbacher Monchshof Kellerbrau Unfiltered German Lager
RATING: 5.0
Kulmbach, Germany
This ornately capped bottle (with that Grolsh sort of hardware that always defies the physics of drunken hands) arrived with a bit of a question mark. "Unfiltered" has been good to me. So it must be a Hefe-weizen? Nein, nein, nein! Color is amber-gold, aroma clearly of Pilsen style, and the lace long and swift. Now we have real Pilsener flavor, big lace, unfiltered production, AND a rich amber color. That sounds like a recipe for...beer paradise. The reality is very close for the Pils flavor is rich, endless, and very true to form, immensely pleasant and rewarding. There are actually stronger, fuller Pils with more golden (less amber) color but this is a real gem. It is luscious, vastly satisfying, and a true uncompromising lager of the very highest order. Highest marks may not be enough.  I cannot imagine why the pricey hardware is needed because any fool will want to swallow the entire pint in 30 seconds flat. If I need serious hardware for this label, it would be to hide and lock behind big steel gates and fences my entire (imagined) stash of 400 bottles that I begged the local wholesaler to give me and to no one else in the entire state. It is rich enough to impress (fully) and yet clean enough at crispy, chilly temps to suggest administration of a large dose. If I could part with my stash, I'd be temped to send a case to each of the CEO's of the major and mediocre US breweries and include a note that says: "You're the Chevy and selling like it...here's the Mercedes of Beers...how about using real benchmarks guys...and making America proud of you". Try it at once and revisit it often...if I let you have any.

Kumburak Pils
RATINGL 5.0 
Nova Paka, Czech Republic
The country that invented Pils sends us out great classics like Gambrinus and Urquell. This Pils has come from the 'Golden Belt of the Czech Republic' since 1872. The label's picture of their brewery is both artful and worth collecting. The color is classic Pils golden with an enduring head. The flavor is Pilsy but not as rich as Gambrinus. It seems to possess a semi-sweet subtle flavor that while not weak is not overwhelming either. The hop 'nose' is most obvious and adds much to its appeal. One reviewer said it has 'earthy and quite authentic Pils character'. That earthy aroma is not going to come off anything from Miller or Beck's for that matter. It is thoroughly pleasant and with no flaws. We surely hope some mega-corp doesn't come over and ruin it.

La Tropical Pilsener La Primera Cerveza Cubana (Cerveza La Tropical Pilsener)
RATING: 4.5
Tampa FL/Havana Cubana (origin)
Here we enjoy another Florida-Cuban complication. The current brewers trace themselves to a Havana Cuba brewery started in 1888 as "Cuba's First Beer". They cite impressive awards from 1896 to 1901 on the label. The current incarnation of La Tropical is made in Tampa with the "same quality standards and finest ingredients". Is this a transplanted tradition necessitated by the evils of communism or is it a stolen heritage born of modern marketing? A look at their website might be a good place to start in formulating your conclusion. Right now we leave the question open. Your comments are welcome on both sides. This beer is certainly good enough to warrant the scrutiny.

The light yellow color, persistant white head are what a biologist would call "species typical" . The flavor is what we'd call three-fourths strong on the known Pils Scale of our collective memory. It is fairly sweet and with a potent than usual flavor makes it pleasant to many. It is heads and shoulders ahead of some of the Pilsoid junk coming out of Florida. Reviewers say 'surprisingly decent...too sweet for me' and 'Not many Pils from this side of the pond are as pleasing'. One reviewer noted that the SWEET PILS is not authentic when the style demands more dryness. Perhaps Florida or Cuba demand more flair and originality, taking something good and making it their own - as they have done in so many other areas. Somebody raised the question on whether it was as good a beer as a Cuban cigar is to cigars. That was tough since most of us are too busy drinking to even consider smoking. Whatever the origin and whatever your Pils standard this is one of the better SWEET PILS from a non-European country.

Labatt Ice Beer
RATING: 2.5
Yet again we have an 'exclusive process' to make ice brewed beer that claims to be smooth yet full-flavored. This product of London Ontario is light yellow with a big, short-lived head, and prolific carbonation. First taste is very lightly flavored in the same weak manner that makes Labatt's one of our last choices among Canadian brews. Finish is in fact 'extraordinarily smooth' as claimed. For all we can tell any 'full flavor' left with the ice crystals.

Labatts 50 Canadian Ale c rlp 4.0 184 Like most imported Canadians this is top quality and priced below most Mexican and European beers. We thought it superior to many premium Americans and its own Pilsner variant due to more complexity and a sweet clean after- taste. On sale from $3.49 per 6 bottles there is hardly a lower-priced beer in its class. It is not fancy nor rich - just competant and pleasant. The flavor is enjoyed when both cool and very cold. Short green bottles.
Labatt's Blue Pilsner c rlp 3.0 185 Labatt's has both ale and Pilsner variations. This is far less cereal tasting and rich than the true European Pils. While it is crisp and clear it is not very distinct from many good American dry bears. We think Miller Genuine Draft and Light are very similar and less expensive. At $5-6 this should have more of rich German Pils taste. Now that American brands are producing flavorful dry and light beers this product is out of a market niche at this price. 

Lao Beerlao Lager
RATING:  4.5
Vientiane, Laos
Collectors alert: very cool tiger cap. You know you have something from a distinct place in the world by viewing their label. Wikipedia says the beer includes jasmine rice from the local market. It has medium flavor on the worldwide Pils scale, short-lived but nice head, and flavor shift that goes from sweet to dry in a flash - the finish is more smooth and dry than early notes. The more you drink the sweeter it remains. The flavors are a bit unkempt for a Pils, going all over the map - which accounts for it being called "a very unique beer" in the world press. 

The NY Times has quoted Time Magazine as calling this "Asia's best local beer" and sales in many parts of that part of the planet confirm it's popularity. Carlsberg of Denmark owns about half the company and has lended their brewing and marketing expertise - the Laotian government providing the remainder. The very fact the NYT wrote an article about this beer tells one something. In the case of this label, odd and unique are not a bad thing. It's no surprise to American beer buyers that the addition of rice makes this beer very crisp and smooth. Yet our friends in Lao do not scrimp on the main Pils yeast flavors as do 90% of the cheap American golden piss waters on our grocery shelves. The brewers also say they use a careful amount of malt - again outpacing the common, cheap rice beer crap from North American and Mexico. The NYT articles says BeerLao sells easily for the same price as Heineken in Hong Kong; which at the time was $6 a bottle. It's almost gaining fame in 2009 as the Asian version of Corona in big Asian cities, London, and soon parts of the US - and yet it has real flavor. I applaude them all.  Jasmine rice smoothing out a rich, true Pils? We might have thought of that in forty other Pils-making countries.

Left Hand Polestar Pilsner
RATING: 3.0
Longmont, Colorado
I've said this over and over the head, the color, and aroma here are so classic. The only thing different I know about this is the use of Noble hops. It is mid-flavored, surprising bitter and not always with a pleasant velvety touch. It abuses one more than a Pils should and the hops bitter finish is not well done. In fairness, the stuff was brewed 4.30.2008 and this taste/review was written 11.19.2008 - my associates differ on whether a micro-pils in the "real world" should be good that far out or not. It is what we tend to get and many other micros are much older when tested here. I noted other reviewers on the web reported unclear notes and unidentified things that set them back to render B- and C ratings. My problems is purely in the ragged, thumping bitterness of the sample. 

Lion Lev Pale Double Bock
RATING: 4.0
Havlickuv Brod, Czech Republic
This dark golden beer won the Silver Award in a recent Beer World Cup in the Bohemian Pils group. It is mid-strength Pils by European standards (and potent by North American), a surprising fruity variant. There is a tough of sweetness but a faintly bitter hops finish to cancel out what could have made it unmemorable at the start. The head is large, ivory, fluffy, and full.

Lomza Premium Beer (Wyborowe)
RATING: 4.5
Poland
I was expecting yet another (formerly) third world, Eastern European copy of Czech or German brilliance in the Pils field. It might be too weak, have odd metallic notes, or no redeeming grainy notes at all. We poured and an aroma from the beer heaven arose and it was not allowed to go unmolested for more than 5 seconds after that. The aesthetics are classic but sipping it reveals a rich, authentic Pils infusion so wonderful and legit I am without words. More sips. I would pick Gambrinus or Urquerl if given a choice but this Polish Pils is very nearly in their league on any day at any temperature. There are dozens of American and German products far inferior. Lomza is lightly and flawlessly sweetened, a good malt backbone in place. It's 6% in the trim I bought but others report 5.75%. I have read reviews online of it being poor and perhaps in some bottles or form I may be. One cannot however deny it's Bronze Medal at the World Beer Championships in this ultra-competitive category. Tastings.com of the Beverage Tasting Institute rated it 85 points (High Recommended) in October 2008 but all their chat about "peach marmalade on toasted cornbread" and "light artichoke" is utter elitist tripe - that's because I certain it possesses more of a light Chilean anchovy paste on Norwegian flatbread accented with Bolivian capers from Spring 1968 supported by faint notes of 1972 Belgian malted milk balls from 1207 Onvangerstraat in Brugges Belgium sprinkled with rare albino truffles from batch #901... 

Lone Star u rlp 2.0 508 San Antonio Things are big in the Long Star State of Texas. That is why we might expect a brew bearing that name to be big on flavor or charm. It was not. If one has been swilling Budweiser since age 12 this Lone Star beer with a bright sweeter-than-Bud taste might be the best thing since cowboy boots. In the world of good American beers and even bad import beers this label is just a label with a nice name. Once again our theory about beer that brags about the 'Artesian water' rather than the taste is reinforced. There is no reason to drink this beer unless your only alternatives are Light or Ice trash. Our reviewers sent the usual sort of puns - 'Leave it a Lone' and 'Perhaps it should be named for its ingredient...Lone Hop'.

Lowenbrau Special (American-made) u rlp 2.0 195 An American-made low cost 'German' beer is appealing. Unfortunately this is an acidic crude beer with German PACKAGING and no German class or Pils taste. Miller can do much better. There are a growing number of less expensive Amer- icans (like Stroh's) and several Mexicans which are better values. One can only wonder if the folks in Munich know how far from worldclass this effort has become? If Mexicans can do great European style beers why can't Miller?

Lowenbrau Zurich / rlp 4.0 198 Zurich Lowenbrau is made at breweries around the world. Unlike the very inferior American variant this Swiss Beer from Zurich actually has flavor. Comparing the two is most educational. This bright golden lager is broadly in the Heineken class with pungent aroma and smooth finish. It is however a bit more sweet unless extremely cold. While we'd prefer a good German pils this beer is interesting. It loses 1 bottle because the dry finish is a bit weak.

Maccabee is rlp 4.0 472 Netanya Maccabee from T.B.I. of Netanya Israel has 3 Monde Selection Gold Medals since 1987. This typically colored Pils has nice aromatic values and a traditional color. The flavor is pleasing like some of the lighter German Pils but in the competitive world of Pils-making it is not complex nor flavorful enough for us. While so many Israeli exports reflect superb quality and hardy work this product is disappointing. While it will crush any mass-market American Pils and many Mexicans for flavor interest it cannot match true European Pils like Urquell or Becks. A Heineken drinker will consider it magic but not if you've sampled the world's very best.

Maes Pils
RATING: 4.0
Warloos, Belgium
This product of Warloos is typical Pils color but has a lasting foamy head. Flavor is medium strength for a Pils and the finish is rather dry. It is best when very cold. For our money there are many Pils just as fine with no steep $9.00 sixpack price. Like so many other European Pils it is solid and reliable for flavor and presentation but price takes away any value. A Becks or DAB is likely to cost much less and taste as fine. It's a "try once for fun...then move on" label in my book. 

Magic Hat Participation Lager
RATING: 3.5South Burlington, Vermont
This stuff was intended for the 2008 US Prez election. The 5.0% bright gold lager promises no tax cuts or free health care though I would like everyone involved to cut beer taxes one of the freakin' days. (and Lord knows if the IRS would let me deduct six hundred 6-packs because I wrote this beer book, I'd really be one happy, hop-numbed, malt-silly, participatin' fool. But then again if they did we'd have 12 million beer books and 38 million guides to local street vice on the market). Head is large, off white, and the it's mid-Pils strength overall. The "GET OUT and VOTE 11.04.08" on the label put it on my collectible shelf for that label is surely gone forever. I rather like their incarnation of Uncle Sam pointing while holding a lager bottle between his other fingers. There's a website to learn about registering to vote and as someone who voted after having 7 beers the night beer, I will testify that beer drinkers can and do bother to vote. Okay, okay. I called in sick and voted about 4pm two blocks from my house and had more beers after heading back. I celebrate what should be a national holiday in style and if that means back-to-back hangovers to drown out the policy nerds on TV - so be it and I thoroughly enjoyed my day. It's medium-dry, slightly but acceptably bitter in the finish, low-mid Pils flavor, and like the 2008 not exactly what I was looking for on any of the major two or three party positions. I'm tempted to say it tasted old, erratic on one hand and lacked substance on the other. And yes I gave one to a homeless dude to "spread the wealth" around; that would be unfair to a decent beer though it's not the Magic Hat's best effort.

Melanie Evil Eye (Ojo Malo) High Gravity Lager
RATING: 2.5
Cincinnati, Ohio
I bought this 24 oz. tallboy along with the potent Steel Reserve 2 but this can does not give ABV anywhere at all. My research says it has a potent 10%, making it more buzz-inducing than an 40 oz. with 4.9% ABV. It is called "a strong malt lager" by some classification systems I consulted. The lofty ABV measure is rather well disguised and such a bad thing in the hands of teens, college students, and adults like I used to be in a former "there is no such thing as too much beer" life. It is medium yellow in the pour with long lace. It is finer than Bud and Pabst and most of those silly big forty creations with fun marketing names but that is not saying much. The Steel Reserve 2 proved superior with at least a pretense of giving some Pils flavor. Where the Reserve 2 has a bit of grain this product gives one light sweet malt, phenols, and feeling they have added everything but the kitchen sink - because those are expensive and this stuff is not. It is high gravity but low in seriousness. It is common, crass, and undistinguished except as a pretty golden delivery vehicle for lots of ethanol. That will be enough for millions but not me nor I suspect you either. There are worse gas station beers but these days one can find a Becks Dark and Sam Adams Boston Lager even in the the most remote counties in the US - so pick your cheap poison or savor quality over two or three nights and be the better man or women for it.

Menabrea Pils i rlp 4.0 535 Biella Menabrea of Biella Italy is one of the country's smallest breweries. Since 1846 they have produced a 'Birra' that is in the European Pils tradition in color and flavor. It is no better nor worse than Moretti but lacks that profound depth and charisma of an Urquell or Spaten. It is a good new experience and the gold-foiled and crested label is worthy of your displays. Other than that is just one of a few hundred very good but not perfect Pils that comes in small 11.2 ounce bottles to this country.
Messina t rlp 3.0 208 Birra Messina of Milano dates to 1923 and produces a Pils in shoulderless bottles shaped like artillary shells. Color is typical German Pils but the carbonation is better than most. Flavor is moderate from start to mid-palate but finishes quite dry. Moretti, a major competitor is superior to our taste. At all temperatures this had some slightly thin and off flavors in separate purchases. There are too many fine richly flavored Pils to recommend it.

Michelob (Lager)
RATING: 2.0
This popular American from Anheuser-Busch is well made but not up the flavor detail of the new elite Americans and most European imports. We give the uniquely shaped bottle high marks for handle-ability and its convenient light weight. We do think that its Light variant is a better choice - which at 134 calories does not possess the real negatives of most lights. Best in bottles or kegs and very best not consumed at all. 

Michelob Golden Pilsner u rlp 3.0 867 St. Louis, MO So far this is one of the least improved Michelob products in the new line. One reviewer suspected 'one must be a bloodhound to detect the reported 'SPICY FLORAL AROMA'. Noble and Cascade hops are used to produce this $5.99 pale gold brew with a tall off white head. They describe it as DEEP golden and that too required a real hallucination or two. Flavor is better than the regular Michelob golden brews but then again we could name 400 Pils (100 easily found) that are absolutely finer. Even at this $5.99 price they need a much bigger punch to win over beer lovers who have tried what we might call the REAL PILS. Since a few of them come down at just $7.99 one must truly value the 2 dollars to settle near this. Please reformulate.
Miller Genuine Draft u rlp 3.0 218 This is one of the more flavorful premium American beers. As a cold- filtered product it retains rich flavor lost with pasteurization and other harsh processes. Available in shortneck and longneck bottles as well as cans this is sure to become very popular. The taste is unique and it is perhaps the most enjoyable American offered in cans. The light variant is almost as flavorful. This is a much needed product.
Miller High Life u rlp 2.0 220 This is Miller's basic beer. It is competant and smooth but not exciting. It is hard to imagine anyone preferring this to their newer Genuine Draft. While the tastes are distinct this High Life lacks depth and flavor.
Miller Reserve 100% Barley Draft u rlp 3.0 224 This bright bubbly golden new Miller product dates from Fall 1992. Made from 100% barley malt it is said to harken back to Frederick Miller's draft lager dating from 1855. First taste had us saying 'premium American' due a pleasant pungency and delightful maltiness. While better than Miller Genuine Draft it is not on level with a top microbrew or premium bottled American. Yet it is easily THE BEST GROCERY STORE AMERICAN UNDER $4.25. A worthy new product.

Milwaukee's Best regular u rlp 2.0 227 Marketed at the top of econo-brews this beer has pleased millions of Americans when the cheaper brands could not. It is a smart compromise in price and quality available in can and bottle. It is not exciting but neither bitter nor crude like its cheaper competitors. While is surely not Milwaukee's very best it is a certainly a profitable and consumer-prompted win for Miller.

Molson Export Ale c rlp 4.0 229 This refined Canadian is best compared to the Molson Golden which may or may not be more available in your stores. It is a bit less pungent and has a tendency to be mildly bitter when tried head to head with the Golden label. Although both get a 4 bottle rating we'd almost prefer Molson's Kirin (regular only) as it is sweeter. All these 4 bottle Molson products are competant but lack a depth of refined flavors. How 'bout a dark version? 

Molson Golden c rlp 4.0 230 Although very common and quite affordable this Canadian is always satisfying with a meal or on its own. There are so many other beers to try that people often forget about this familiar favorite. We will forgive the company for the disastrous bland Kirin Light and give them 4 bottles for this finest effort. It seems to sell well when on sale or not. It is the first import than many Americans have tried.

Moosehead Lager c rlp 3.0 235 This aromatic Canadian lager is not unlike the more popular Molson but is perhaps thinner and less pungent. It has a crisp clean taste that could pass as a flavorful light. It is well-crafted but lacks some of the depth and character that mark a perfect lager. It is good but not great. We think Molson is a better pick for that pungent Canadian taste. If one drinks enough of this most of the jokes about the name become truly funny.

Moretti t rlp 5.0 237 Since 1859 Birra Moretti of Udine Italy has made this superior Pilsner- type beverage. It is about equal in quality to Dortmunder Union and less bitter than Bitburger to our tastes. The long tapered green bottle is like a miniature Italian wine bottle in shape. Curiously the bottle opening of is narrowest we've seen. Like most REAL Pils beers this is best very cold. If you like a worldclass Pils this is easily worth the $7-8 for 6 bottles. 

Mother Earth Endless River Kolsch-style Ale
RATING:  
Kingston, North Carolina
Kolsch comes from Cologne, Germany which is also known for another very fragrant fluid. Why is this ale in the golden lager section? This is because most of them are top-fermented (thus a basic ale) and yet lagered or cold-conditioned. There is very little ale style in flavor of this beer and it clearly belong with the other golden lagers. No big surprise except to the nomenclatural strict of my readers. We are pleased in this 2010 in North Carolina to have two relatively new breweries making fine products, Mother Earth in Kingston and Palerider in Raleigh. My hopes for both were vastly exceeded by their actual, creative offerings. Unlike the old micro days it is no longer enought to have something gold, something dark, something red, and something yummy inbetween; the names more clever and the labels more artful than the contents. This golden Kolsch is pale and Pils-like in the pour and there is a like fruit in the presentation, a faint hops tang in the finish. Possible citrus is found - added? Sweetness is 3 on a scale of 10, strength maybe 6 on the 10 scale. It is more bitter than longer you drink it so pairing with food is important if this much bitterness bothers you. The price of this new firm is strictly $10 and up in NC so they need to rise to a very strong standard at that price point. Their fresh-hopped IPA is so far better than the other labels and this is not as amazing or stunning but I am not sure how a Kolsch could be really mind-blowing anyhow for a hops worshiper like myself - bias alert. I might like it better if the bitterness was pushed down a notch and fruit up one.

Mythos Aris Greek Lager 
RATING: 4.5
Thessaloniki, Greece
"I'll bet this stuff is skunky as all hell" I shouted in our beer tasting. Before I could take my colleagues for yet more beer money they cracked the cap and we all came to the same conclusion. My mind turned to another place. Sunday School. Thessalonians chapter four, verse 33. I could almost hear Mrs. Eastman in her soft high-pitched, nasal voice asking us to repeat the scripture contained therein. Now I'm repeating with the skunky Pilsoid beer repeated therein and therefrom. I Thes. 5:8 "be sober". 5:21: "hold fast to that which is good". 5:26: "Greet all the brethren with an holy kiss". How about the Brewbase Revised Standard Version: "be as sober as possible...hold fast to that which is good (including your hometown Thessalonian golden lager)...and greet all the [pretty] sisters with a holy kiss or two...until the Lord returns or they scream your name, whichever cometh first". (My apologies to St. Pauli but I did resist the obvious "holey kiss" joke). Aris is a pretty Pils all around, traditional and skunky in form/color, moderate in flavor, good solid mouth of foam, rewarding when cold and quality still high even if a bit warm. One taster (let's call him Bill the Idiot) here thought it was a perfect 5.0 but I felt some complexity and one notch of strength was lacking. A great beer, a great old town, and this big Greek skunk will kick your Heineken skunk's heinie all the way down the forest trail to Thessaloniki.

Obolon Lager
RATING: 4.5
Kiev, Ukraine
I tried their Premium on the same day as this and their curious "Magnat Ale" which might in fact may be (or not) an Ale-based Pilsner. This is the one in the forest green, white, and red label. For one thing, it's a darker gold than the Premium and has a distinct, Heineken skunky aroma on uncapping. It is the more traditional of the two Pils editions. It is also slightly stronger than the Premium and like it quickly moves on to a tartish finish. Of the two, I like a bit better but not so much as to differentiate their ratings. It is made with cold lagering and according to their website is "deeply fermented". Like the premium a simple sip or tiny cup will not do. Give it as full bottle or two to saturate the buds. If you want to award your own Ph.D. in Pils beers, run a taste taste of Obolon's Lager, Premium, and Magnat products and have the candidate describe the differences in detail. This will be very fascinating.

Obolon Premium 
RATING: 4.5
Kiev, Ukraine
Brewed from "old recipes" this Pils is very aromatic and also one of the palest gold beers that is not a watery light. The make up for the lack of color with the deep gold, black, and red label - three colors that look great together. The website says "it's a highly stable beer with special freshness and saturation"; think they should fire their English translator. It's 5.2% ABV and slams you with good grainy Pils but soon comes a very tart, much weaker finish close on it's heals. Rice is used in the process. One's first few sips can always been deceiving so I made many more - anything in the cause of journalism and book-crafting. Not long ago one would be a "commie" for even hinting at like or love for a beer from Kiev - I guess chicken Kiev was somehow okay during the Cold War as I had it fairly often. Back to the more and more sips. It does have some of those "off" notes one finds in Russia and Chinese beers but only in the finish and mostly when warmed on the table a bit. There is something rich and refined to their recipe and if served very cold (ONLY!) it will impress. Pils is one style which must saturate both the tongue and the mind for some minutes to get the full and accurate measure of it. I wish half our American microbrews had this recipe and the courage to brew things this long.

Old Milwaukee
RATING: 2.0
This American econobeer has loads of competition at the end of the price spectrum. It is drinkable but after tasting the world's finest (and often 3 times more costly) labels we find no merit in its unpleasantness. However we suspect that OM's real competition comes from the plethora of new Malt Liquor labels which are cheap in their towering glass bottles and generally have a more desirable taste. Not all stores even carry this now.

Olympia u rlp 3.0 262 This budget American label is one of the better low cost brews. It is almost always seen in 12-packs so not everyone will stock it. It is reasonally crisp and about the equal of Keystone in quality. If you can get Stroh's at a similar price that may be more satisfying as would a few others on sale. We do not believe it comes in bottles. It is overall better than Milwaukee's Best if served very cold - when cool none of the econobrews are drinkable. 

Orion Premum Draft Beer
RATING: 2.5
Urasoe City, Okinawa, Japan
This "Okinawa Original" is heralded as being "clear" and "mild". Color and head are classic Pils even if the later is limited. The lace is longer than many brands. It is medium flavored overall, light by German and Czech standards perhaps, but sporting enough graininess so as to be medium in our world-influenced American market. I think it has potential (for the Japanese are masters of everything with computer and quality control and can fix this), but there are some loose, empty, and vaguely "off topic" notes to keep this one from being much above a weak, mass market "American Pils". The price is well above them and so we can demand more regularness if not more strength. There is a place for a mid-potency Pils enjoyed in the heat of summer (with a lemon or lime) but price and perfection on not meeting in this bottle.

Pabst u rlp 1.0 266 Even budget conscious college students joke about Pabst but many of them do buy it. It had the low-priced market nailed down until the bargain malts hit the scene. If they came up with a 'Pabst Dry' and put it in large bottles it probably would compete better. It is sometimes bitter and acidic and has no complexity of flavor. If there's an earthquake and inferno encircling your town and it's the last sixpack getting warm at the pilferred, looted corner store...and you may have hours to live...leave it.

Pacifico m rlp 5.0 267 Cerveceria del Pacifico makes a truly first rate and affordable ($5) beer with medium straw yellow color and a head with abundant bubbles. It is very refined and smooth at all times. It must be considered moderate in flavor or somewhat subtle and dry. It is not overly sweet like some Mexican labels yet it has a clean fruity taste that is pleasant at any fine meal. Much to our surprise it is very close to a more flavorful Keystone Dry. 

Paulaner Premium Pils g rlp 3.0 626 Munich Paulaner is responsible for two other Pils - Paulaner Munich Pils and Hacker- Pschorr Munich Edelhell. The gold letters 'Extra Dry' on the label give a clue about this one. Color is extremely pale yellow and the head is large with pristine white micro-foam. It is EXTREMELY DRY in fact. There are nice yeasty and 'grainy' Pils flavors to note and that dry finish can have bitter notes - something a DRY PILS lover will expect and cherish. Unfortunately in that dry finish is some ambiguous flatness or 'flavor deficits' as one re- viewer calls it. Or as Brits would say 'a touch untidy'. For this reason it was clearly our less favorite of their three Pils. Paying over $8.00 for a sixpack with raw, unpolished aftertastes is assuredly a big THUMBS DOWN.

Pennsylvania Penn Gold
RATING: 4.0
Pittsburgh, PA
The bottle proclaims it a Munich-style Helles using Hallertau hops. Color is a very pale straw with a bright white head of some duration, slight but persistant lace. It very much carrries off the depth, somberness, malty tonic, and subdued approach of the style. While "Helles" means bright, the style to me is less bright than a Pils; though approaches will vary. There are spicy hops but the malt wins out if winning is what we want in the first place. Corn and grain jump up and dance. It's tastes too healthy a golden brew to classified as anything other than a delicious yellow vegetable. How much would 4 servings a day be? They certainly have deviated from most American golden lagers, Pils pretenders or not. Not many American firms attempt the style and very few dare to compare across the pond; least of all with the Helles Fatherland. It may be one of the most malty beers of such pale yellow color on earth. It has a faint tartness, no citrus really. I tend to like it a bit warm for trying it icy cold left some of the notes out. The Beer Advocate averaged it a solid B over hundreds of mainly American tasters, coming out above many famous German labels and equal several very famous ones like Hacker-Pscjorr Edelhell, Paulaner Original Munchner, and Spaten Munchner Hell. Very good company that! 

Pennsylvania Penn Pilsner
RATING: 4.0
Smithton PA (1996), Pittsburgh, PA (2008)
We first tried this pleasant item first in 1996, noting is the PA's first modern microbrewery of the era.  Then we tabbed it a light amber but today it favors rich gold; either way rather dark for the style It was initially based on a very memorable brew the founder Tom Pastorius tried in Heidelberg many years back and met the German Purity Law. Using Hallertau hops plus 2-row and caramel malt this beer is moderately flavored, much sweeter than most pils and exceedingly malty in the foreground. The caramel malt gives a nice semi-sweet balance though the finish is drier. Having just compared it with the Penn Gold Lager, a Helles sort, the two are very different though neither is a true Pils in my opinion. Unfortunately the finish can be a tad irregular and not uniform in places; weak sometimes, overly bitter next, and perhaps again near perfect. In 2008 they proclaim an advantage over the European Pils-makers for this is a sure to be a fresher product. If one wants the sharp, crisp, chilly delight of a Pils, this is not your label. It's a good beer but wrongly named unless one wishes to announce the Malty-Pils class and have competitions on that darker, less grainy approach. It is a good golden lager but the yeast may be wrong and the malt too pronouned to earn my respect. If scored on Pils standards it would be a 2.0 but it earns 4.0 only on the merits outside the class. 

Peroni
RATING: 4.5
Rome, Italy
This Italian beer has an initial pungent taste not unlike Heineken. There-after the taste is more Pilsner type and complex. This product of Rome is a touch sweet and never bitter. Since 1846 this beer has been an Italian favorite. At about $7 it is an alternative to other costly Europeans for those liking a non-bitter pungent Pils taste. It is a medium straw gold with a short-lived head. It could easily pass for a premium German type beer. Initially given a perfect 5 bottle rating, our more refined, knowlegeable tastebuds place it 4.5 today.

Peter's Brand h rlp 3.0 277 This Dutch Pilsener has the same pungency found in Heineken and most Pils from that country. Color is pale yellow and head is moderately persistant. While it is more flavorful than Heineken it had some bitter elements unless perfectly freezing cold. The finish was a bit crude for something priced as $7.00 per six pack. There is no merit in this beer or the bottle as far as we can see. This brew of Breda is best to overlook.

Pete's Bohemian Pilsner u rlp 4.0 783 St. Paul MN This latest wickedness is medium golden with a lasting of limited size. It is a moderately hopped, semi-sweet Pils of some distinction. There are certainly richer golden, hoppy lagers but as $5.99 microbrews run this is one of the best. It should be served very chilly but has enough sweetness and hops to be tolerable somewhat near room temperature. Reviewers noted 'high quality hops bitterness but just the right amount of sweet Pils flavor...good value though not worldclass' and 'easy to drink and enjoy...I'd still prefer their Lager and Pale Ale if given a choice'. Don't see it around today.

Pilsner Urquell
RATING: 5.0
Pilsen, Czech Republic
This is called 'the only genuine Pilsner' since it is the only worldwide distribution of a beer from Pilsen Czechoslovakia. It is very superior in its class and is to many the absolute standard by which a European (that is true and traditional) Pils be judged. Others prefer Spaten labels or Dinkel Acker CD-Pils as reliable standards. You'll not go wrong serving any of them. There are fuller or darker Pils and if you want one from Pilsen the harder to find one called Gambrinus is perfect. Reviewers remarked on 'ideal aroma, flavor, and big head...wonderful earthy flavor' and 'a little more strong hopping than some of the mass-produced German ones'. We note that quality may vary and some bottles we've tried were old or bitter or both. When fresh it's the finest made. If you want to do a comprehensive Pils tast testing this should be one of the standards. It's hard to find in some parts of the US and in certain seasons but I always grab a few when available. It's the Bible of Pils, the Constitution, and the Bill of Rights all rolled up into one sacred, revered bottle. Life, Liberty, and the Pursuit of Urquell...

Pinkus Ur Pils
RATING: 5.0
Muenster, Germany
From the town that gave us Munster cheese is this Ur (or true) Pils. The head large and long. Carbonation is forever and color is typical. Even at the requested 55 degrees serving temp. (warm by US custom) it proved extremely flavorful and delicious beyond words. It is also rather aromatic and has a perfect Hallertau hops complexity. Organic barley and 90 day lagering are used. Possibly bitter if too warm. ONE OF THE BEST PILS. Absolutely a 'must try'.

Pinkus Ur Organic Pils
RATING: 4.0
Muenster, Germany
The regular Pinkus Ur Pils has used organic barley but apparently this blue labeled product is organic in all the ingredients from top to bottom. Color is slightly cloudy yellow being unfiltered. The head is typical of the style though perhaps deeper than many. Reviewed first by us in 2000 this sample is considerably more bitter than our notes indicate for the above review of a few years before. While full flavored it does have a more uncomfortable, uneven finish than one should have to endure. Whether the organic farming process is to blame we cannot be sure. The previously reviewed label made no mention of cloudiness or being unfiltered so perhaps that explains the flavor change. Our recommendation as an elite pils unfortunately cannot extend to this version of the product. 5.2% alcohol by volume.

Polar v rlp 5.0 282 We'd assumed this work of Cerveceria Polar Del Centro was another fine Mexican beer with painted label. It is in fact from Venezuela but the connection to polar bears still escapes us. Polar Bear...err...Polar Beer is a Pilsner type and is the equal of any European Pils. It is much sweeter and less bitter than most Euro-Pils and as such is a distinct label. We'd class it as Sweet Pils. If you like Carta Blanca this will please too.

Port Royal Export rlp 5.0 283 Brewmaster Helmut Lutz makes this truly worldclass Pilsner in San Pedro Sula, Honduras in the style of his native Bavaria. Initial aroma was like Heineken but the first taste is that of a full sweet Pils on par with ANYTHING from Europe. Color is bright but faintly clouded gold with an endur- ing foamy head. Finish is semi-sweet. Like many of the sweeter Pils it is quite drinkable near room temp. Hard for us to find. Absolutely delightful! 

Presidente Cerveza Pilsener Type Beer
RATING: 4.5
Santa Domingo, Dominican Republic
I found this gem in green 22 ounce bottles in my neighborhood grocery store for about $2.75 in August 2008. I expected one of the those week Mexican Pils creations and was delighted to discover something far better than most of them. Color and head are classic, perhaps a tad larger than average in bubble department. It's very faintly "skunky" (and no Pils lover ever minds that sign of authenticity and strength) and yet it's not a rich Czech or German. Somewhere back in my formative Pils-tasting years I called these "Mid-Pils", neither watery trash like Corona nor a standard as a find in Gabrinus or Urquell. If you want a Pils and don't want to spend $13 on an imported sixpack, a couple of these beauties will please when served very cold. Middle Strength Pilsener (MSP) would be a good category for anyone doing an All-Pils tasting. We have low strength, mid strength, high strengh, and the forgettable, no strength, pseudo-Pils, computer-generated PISS WATER from you-know-who. The value here is very nice as the price is right and the strength good for a cold day when mass quantities in big bottles are in order. Presidente may not be President of the Pils but he's at least chairman of their political party. It's quite sad so many once great American brewers find this sliver of sales going to the Dominican Republic only for their lack of quality and faithfulness to THEIR OWN...I repeat...THEIR OWN European tradition. How sad. How glad I found this nice value that is pleasant, affordable, and a very good pour over the hours. 

Puntigamer Panther g rlp 5.0 286 Brauerei Puntigam Graz has been brewing since 1838 and most of their works are of the German type. The Panther label is a 'Genuine Draft' and colors medium straw yellow with a large bubble-bound head. While they also sell a Pils beer (reviewed in our next issue) this might be called a super flavorful Pils or POTENT PILS. Put against Dortmunder Union or Pilsner Urquerll this proves notably stronger. It is never bitter and is a fine choice with meals.

Rattlesnake Premium Beer u rlp 3.0 288 The color is exceedingly pale yellow and the head of medium lifespan. It is 'handmade' by Kershenstine's Diamond of New Orleans. The beautifully painted bottle has a snake in red and black encircling old Pappy Kershenstine. The flavor is of the thin American Pils sort with more of a light fruity finish than cheap brands. The package says 'Get Bit'- at $8.49 we were bit real good. Big let down like Guiness Gold. Recommendation: buy one bottle to collect.

Red Dog u rl
p 3.0
459 Milwaukee WI
Plank Road of Milwaukee is promoting this new 'uncommonly smooth' beer in 6 or 12 packs. Color is light yellow and the head disappears quickly. Six bottles for $3.99 is the catch. If you are in a Busch Light budget this beer may hold appeal. Otherwise stick with Black Dog or Red Bull if you like a bull-dog theme on your labels. Here is proof that the word 'smooth' is brewer-speak for no flavor and a deficiency of hops. Still we find that for 4 portraits of George W. one does avoid odd flavors in Schiltz and the weakness of a malt liquor. It is Union Made but they wisely decided not to identify themselves. Red Dog gets A+ in marketing but C- in brewing art. It appears to be gone forever.

Redhook Rope Swing Summer Pilsner
RATING: 4.0
Portsmouth, New Hampshire
Since 1982 Redhook has made some solid beers and are couple really great ones. Released to celebrate Tax Day in the US (April 15), this refreshing classic Pils is intended to honor the arrival of summer at a time when spring has yet to begin? Confused they may be on that marketing theme but I like the beer. The hops are better than most US micro-Pils and the malts well defined also. I like it but did not love it. The $10 price was not to my liking really as one can do as well for less. I get nearly the real Pilsen products for that sum.

Red Mountain Golden Lager u rlp 4.0 290 This product of Birmingham Brewing Co. is bright golden yellow with a very substantial head. Carbonation is strong. We almost didn't try this one since their Golden Ale had been tried. They are not the same. This steam-brewed lager is superior to RM's Golden Ale. It has real Pils flavor and compares well to all but the elite 5-bottle Pils like Urquell. The finish is more sweet than dry and is a bit fruity. Decent value but not really exciting.

Red Stripe
RATING: 4.5
Jamaica
293 The brown barrel-shaped bottles have a narrow mouth and the largest govern- ment warning imaginable - 1.2 inches high. The plain red and white package caused us to ignor this Jamaican brew from Desnoes & Geddes. Expecting little we were stunned by the detailed and truly worldclass taste. It is easily a top 10 Pils in the world. Easily. We'd like to suggest a new government warning: Red Stripe can be very addicting. About $7 a pack and well worth it when crusing convenience store shelves for something, anything tolerable. a friend of mine said quite aptly (and with atypical wisdom): "it's a more sweet and flavorful version of Corona".

Reichelbrau g rlp 5.0 295 This non-pasteurized Pils is from the same town (Kulmbach) that produces the Hofbrau Bavaria label at another firm. They must be honest since our labels were blacked out replacing 12 oz. with 11.2 oz.! The color and head are the expected Pils sort. The taste is moderate as Pils go and while very pleasant it was less strong than Dinkel Acker Pils that was compared to it. It is of the Dortmunder Union class and it would be hard to pick the best of the two. 


Rembrant Masterpiece h rlp 3.0 297 Brouwerij de Dissel of Breda Holland export this bright gold lager in bottles bearing one of the master's portraits from The Hague. The first aroma was of 'skunky' Heineken type and unfortunately the flavor was no better. If anything it is a bit thinner in the finish. Tried alongside the pungent Golden Eagle lager of India it was downright boring. In our opinion it one of those 'get it for the lovely label' lagers. This is one canvas they should paint over. 

Rinkuskiai Lobster Lover's Beer
RATING: 4.0
Lithuania
Recent I tried their 8.2% Werewolf Lager with a very fetching label - both the girl and the canine to be precise. Is this just a old world, hungry-for-dollars marketing ploy to make American's want a fancy crude eastern European label for an inflated price? Probably not. Both have substance and curious appeal. The Lobster Lover's lager also features a pretty girl, this time naked and from the rear but with a lobster on her back - his tail covering hers. This formula is a whopping 9.5% ABV. It pours dark gold, perhaps with an amber tint, head Pilsoid but short-lived. No lace to report. It's surprisingly malty and even with some spicing of the mint variety - I suspect that to be coriander for this traditional beer spice can mimic a weak peppermint flavor. There's ample caramel sugar, corn/hominy, banana, and smoke too. The alcohol is finely balanced, not too strong nor too weak and the single flavor elements perform and merge well with it. It will prove too sugary for classic gold lager lovers. I do not love this beer so much as feel better for trying it once - something which can be said about many objects, places, and creatures in our broad world. This is an ideal experiential beer around which tastings can be arranged and late night, drunken arguments held. Reviews on Beer Advocate by the guru ranged from A to D - and that tells one something about whether it's hype or not. It is never simple nor weak nor boring and for me that merits a 4.0. It's too "liquid bread" for many beer lovers but once again, I would not have missed it for the world. I'll bargain for a 4.5 if that lobster's tail is shortened by 20%.

Riverside Golden Spike Pilsner u rlp 3.5 809 Riverside CA Winner of the 1995 World Championships we expected more than this lovely golden drink could deliver. While nicely hopped and reasonably 'lagery' it had some strong (ie. semi-offensive) bitter elements to the finish. The first pal- ate has semi-sweet fruit notes (though moderate) and the mid to later effects are much more hopped, bitter, and dry. It is NOT a weak golden lager as so many are. Instead it's strength and character are of the wrong sort; power without effectiveness; substance without satisfaction. Given the quality of their other beverages surely they have the talent to fix this and find a version worthy of the $7.50-8.00 microbrew price. It is vastly ahead of your mass market gold lagers but Chicago Legacy, Portland, and Big Rock XO Lager are superior.

Rogue Kells Irish Style Lager
RATING: 4.0
Newport, Oregon
Most anything from Rogue will be a fine beer and often a great, memorable, standard-for-the-style one.
Some have classified this with the European Pale Lagers but the label clearly informs us that Pils yeast is used. Great Western Pale, Crystal-15, Wheat, and Acidulated malts are used. Sterling hops are used in a nice but moderate dose. The golden fluid has a large but non-enduring head. Aroma is sweet but faint. It is smooth, not overly rich, a good summer server for putting out in near-freezing temps. The "apple crisp" finish is there and pleasant enough though it is by no means a fruity lager. One has hints of malt, sweetness, fruit, and grain but never anything to saturate the tonque or even to linger more than a second. It earns 4 bottles for being what it is but might score higher as a representative of the style. This is not a dog show so confirmity to style or breed is not our judging measure. This a hot day, serve-near-icy brew when you want something smooth and not for leisuring slow sipping.

Rolling Rock u rlp 3.0 300 A recent big market push has gotten many Americans to try this fine product. It is probably the best American economy brand in bottles. The formerly pub-only painted logo bottles are now available more widely. The packages have delightful photography that is among the finest. Your local store may even have a nice waterfall and if laws permit - real goldfish. The movie Deer Hunter plugs it about 99 times!


Rushki rlp 2.0 305 MOST COLLECTIBLE BOTTLE (USSR!) 1993 Oboken Brewery of Kiev makes this beer for about $2 in 500ml large bottles. The beautiful foil label in black, red, and gold is very un-Soviet. It is probably a good collector's item as the red stars and 'Product of USSR' are gone forever now. The initial taste is really very nice but the finish is clearly crude and metallic. While it is neither good nor horrible we now know why everyone over there likes Vodka. For $2 it is worth the experience. 

Samuel Adams Golden Pilsner (Special Pilsner) u rlp 4.0 725 Boston MA? Known more for their rich dark and flowering lagers and ales, SA has now pro- duced the common ordinary Pils. They note it has 'lively hops character' and mention the use of potent Bohemian Saaz and German Spalt to prove it. Color is bright golden yellow with a very white, thin, but lasting head. Pils flavor is in the moderate strength. Finish is semi-sweet. As to the lively thing that is somewhat toned down compared to what we know as a Saaz brew. It is a decent Pils but at $7.00 we would expect something more first rate. After all SA's other labels are equal to Europe's best. This is sadly not. It is good but it should have been great. Reviewers remarked on 'credible hop flavor but not ex- citing for me' and 'very smooth, well-balanced, and sweetish'. Mixed opinions.

Samuel Adams Hallertau Imperial Pilsner 
RATING: 3.5
Latrobe, PA/Boston, MA
Had a good month and am headed to the car dealer to treat myself. Let me test drive that Rolls Royce Quad-Turbo, cross-over SUV with 45 miles per gallon. I like Rolls Royces, SUVs, turbos x 4, and cars with 45mpg. Do I want them in one package? Big no, fat no. I love Sam Adams, I lust for Hallertau, and I crave Pilsner. Should they be combined? Jim Koch admits "Yes, we're a little obsessed with hops" and he's gone to Bavaria to pick the prime of Noble Hallertau-Mittelfreuh crop for over two decades. They've used "reckless" quantities here in this very limited offering that's golden-amber, long-laced, and ivory in the medium-length head. The question comes to the forefront: does this much hops allow one of keep the subtle brilliance of the Pils style. The here is emphatically a big NO. Pils flavor is no where available or detectable. Is this an interesting hoppy lager with reckless NHM dosing? Yes. As is my motto, I judge beer but what it tastes like to me and not what style or approach is claimed - in other words, no judging a breed by it's boring, formal, book-based standard. This is carbonated hop tea, imperial or otherwise, an easy thing to do I suppose and nothing brilliant nor hard to accomplish. I like truckload of hops in every bottle so grading on my hop-biased curve they squeek by with this rating; coming close to what any weekend brewer might well give me. Keep a Pils a Pils and an hoppy lager what they are and should always be.

Samuel Adams Noble Pils
RATING: 5.0
Boston, MA
Just when I thought all the tricks had been unfurled for producing a novel microbrew Pils, this superb produce comes to the market. It is Pilsy enough but differs in a more grapefruit flavor base over the more familiar notes. All five Noble hops are used to make this product. The four major nobles are Hallertau (a big SA favorite), Saaz (the classic Pilsner Urquell or Bohemia type), Spalt (delicate, spicy), and Tettnang (bitter, mild). I do not know what their fifth variety is but some people consider the Kent Goldings from the UK in the Noble family. As pils go, this one is very citrusy, grapefruit very noticable, and yet full-powered enough to charm any Pils guru. Another delightful Adams product, earning my highest recommendation.

Samuel Smiths Pure Brewed Beer
RATING: 4.0 
Yorkshire, England
327 From t
he 1758 Tadcaster brewery of Yorkshire UK. This light yellow lager is nothing like the Taddy and Oatmeal brews. It is crisp, dry, and very smooth. While worldclass is every respect that $13-14 pricetag is way out of line. In a lager one does not need to pay quite so much. Many lagers are darker amber beers (eg. Portland, Gold Coast) and cannot be compared to this one. amuel Adams, Asahi Super Dry, and DAB Original are equal for less cash. 

San Miguel Pale Pilsen
RATING: 5.0
From Metro Manila Philippines comes this relatively new import to the US market. San Miguel has been a brewery since 1890 and the refinement is so evident. The elegant brown-glass longnecks have a nice white 'painted' label. We find this Pilsen to be both rich in aroma and lingering flavor. All scents and tastes are crisp and with abundant sophistication. At $6.50-$7 it is a fine value. While pale it is NOT light. This is not to be missed. 

Sapphoro Draft j rlp 4.0 332 The cans and bottles are works of functional art as the Japanese do so well. The elegant formed and colored can is THE BEST can commonly sold. We also love the bottle 'grip' and mouth the highest praise. Even without the atmo- sphere of great cans or bottles this beer impresses. It is not perfect but like many Japanese products it is highly competant for its price and good enough to keep German and American brands on the run. Nice crisp taste. 

Saranac Golden Pilsener
RATING: 4.0
338 This golden Pils is quite different from a standard Germans Pils. The light golden brew is much sweeter and hoppier than the name implies. It is dry- hopped with Cascade and Tettnanger hops and as such as rather American in style. The malt is also wheat so flavor is special. It is a fine hop-filled beer but the finish is a tiny bit thin and lacking in some sophistication. But at $6.00 a sixpack it remains a fine value. Very good not excellent. 


Schaefer Beer
RATING: 2.0
This econobrew is not much better or worse than the vast host of other bargain labels that flow from plants all over the country. One is better off with more malt liquers if one wants lots of alcohol for little cash. This too is a benchmark; one very, very far down the bench.

Schlenkerla/Heller-Trum Helles Lagerbier
RATING: 4.5
Bamburg, Germany
Since 1678 the folks at Schlenkerla have made beer. Checking their website, the Tavern Schlenkela under the shadow of the massive Cathedral dates from 1405 in fact. The Schlenkerla name and Bamburg in part are also known for their smoky Rauschbier which is reviewed elsewhere. This stout brown bottle is done in blue and white colors more suggestive in the US of an O-Fest theme; notably in the blue and white diamond-board background. Color, head, and lace all say Pils but the lace is much longer than most. The sweetish-smoke of their other Rauschbiers is carried over into this style and since it lacked the R-word on the label, I'd expected it to be free of the town's famous, smoldering twist. Smoke is a spice in effect as it is with meats, cheese, and most anything else suitable for our downward tubes.

I would be the first to slam their butts into the frothy river if the smoke was a cheap ploy to mask the lack of other flavors. The earthy grains are sufficient to please, a mid strength of sweetness added to keep the smoke from being dry and annoying. Smoke is properly used here, the basic quality not in any doubt. That said, if I had to put away 12 of these mugs I'd be hankering to join the local volunteer fire department or buy a Dalmatian with a nasty temper. A couple of "smokes" is nice. If the occasion demands mass quantities this all is far from my ability to cope. (Here's a chance to beer blend: 2 parts of this and 1 part of a mellow, cheap beer to raise both the value and smoothness). Helles means "bright" and the Helles Lager version of the old Czech-style Pilsener Lager is usually more malty, mellow, and in this case smoky. Given that malts are toasted and roasted, the whole burnt theme kind of comes to together I suppose.  This brewery make fume-drenched versions of many basic styles - Helles, Urbock, Marzen, Wheat, and Pils among them. Thus these become something of a substyle, this one being a Smoked Helles Lager.


Schlitz Beer
RATING: 2.0
This US budget brew has been rather hard to find in comparison to Schlitz Malt Liquor which at similar prices is a superior beverage. We see no real need for the serious beer lover to try this label. It does not have some of the horrid bitter tastes that cheaper beers have but is by no means smooth nor refined.

Shenyang Snowflake ch rlp 4.0 477 Shenyang Shenyang Brewery from the People's Republic makes this aromatic Pils that has a Heineken-like first appeal. The bottles are sometimes mis-formed and the labels a bit abused. If anything it is a bit more 'skunky' than Heineken. There is virtually no head regardless of our vigorous efforts to force one. Such is the bad news. The thrill is something called Pils flavor that makes this even better than many of Japan's more famous beers. It was truly a surprise. If Miller and Budweiser wish to serve as models of great Western capitalism they'd better sip a few of these. This Emperor of Beers is very pleasant. We'd drink it again. Better send a few bottles to Heineken too.

Shingha th rlp 2.0 592 This product of Thailand is typical pale yellow Pils in color with a long lasting head. Flavor is moderate but not a classic European Pils style. The finish is slightly bitter and was not utterly pleasant to all of us - even to those who like a good bitter German Pils. There is really no reason to try or buy this brew except as to add another country to your personal experience total. It is clearly one of those Third World golden lagers and not unlike something from the old Soviet Union.

Shingha Gold th rlp 3.5 989 Boon Rawd Brewery Co. Ltd. produces this fragrant Pils which does not seem to be similar to the Shingha (no Gold) we reviewed under that simpler name. It is Pils like for color, head, and aroma. Flavor is moderate, nicely fruity, and semi-sweet; certainly the equal or better of many Mexican Pils. There is a nice rich lager flavor to hang onto though it is not overly deep nor complex. Yet it makes a major improvement over their product we reviewed about two years back and for that we give them solid praise. One reviewer noted that this beer mainly serves to be served in Thai eating establishments and that being a tad sweet cuts some of those lovely spices. For pure country loyalty we see a point but a serious beer lover will move on.

Sierra Nevada Glissade (Golden Bock)
RATING: 5.0
Chico, California
One normally thinks of SN making fine, hop-drenched alls but they enter the golden lager (full on bock) market with Glissada in this their 30th glorious year. It is not weak (need I even mention that given the brewer!) and is surprisingly bready-malty for such a pale-toned product. Spicy and floral hops are not wanting either but they have restrained themselves from the usual 12 truckloads per vessel of their elite products. It is refreshing cold and yet very drinkable at room temp too - I often save a bottle for lower temp testing. The sweetness is there but restrained, focused, and well-judged. Like a good Italian exotic sports car, the power is surely there but refined and harmless at low speed. ABV at 6.4 is highest for a regular 6-pack, seasonal issue but judged well. They used German malts and unusual for them...European hops. It's taken 30 years for SN to branch out in this direction and if anyone should branch out it would be the Chico gang.

Skol Royal Challenge Lager
RATING: 4.0
Mararashtra, India
"Taste the difference that extra time makes" is a good slogan for a lager as is "brewed longer - brewed better". These 650ml bottles come foiled for our protection - when the hell are they going to stop doing that!?! The result is pale pils color with a short-lived head and a moderately strong flavor for the Pils style. There is a nice malty backbone but nothing too special. Served very cold, as the style usually demands, it is a pleasant brew even not memorable in particular. There are so many countries sending over their best Pils one gets lost in all the names, cities, and histories.

Silva Ro rlp 3.0 555 Reghin Silva roughly means woods or forest. The fall of Communism is bringing more and more Eastern European wines and beers to our shelves. This one carries the novelty of being from Transylvania. A whimsical drawing of a knight whose helmet is crowned with a stein will interest bottle collectors. Color is light to medium yellow with a persistant foamy head. As expected it carries a Pils type flavor and reminds one of an improved Rushki (Soviet) brew. While it is not endowed with the kind of flavor a Pils lover will treasure the main theme is semi-sweet without too many off flavors. It can be be a tad bitter in the end and would be a good candidate for ICING. The whole sum of $2.29 we paid for a 500ml bottle is worth the acquisition of the label alone. An experience.

Sol Special
RATING: 3.0
Mexico
This Mexican from Cerveceria Moctezuma is apparently the company's budget line - Dos Equis being more costly and more ornately packaged. Flavor is very smooth and it tends toward a light beer sort of depth. The aroma and initial taste are slightly pungent but the lingering taste is less strong. It is a competant beer but hardly noteworthy. We have seen it for as little as $4.00 per six pack (1990's) - it is not a good value at much higher prices.

St. Paul Blond
RATING: 4.0 
Belgium
Two point: 1) This is St.Paul of Belgium and not St.Pauli of Germany. 2) Blond is fancy way of saying plain old golden...yellow beer. It's not a Belgian white nor Belgian red. The top-fermented ABBEY ALE uses Oregon hops - odd as many Western US breweries use German hops. They also add 'finest spices' and charge about $2.50-3.00 for just 11.2 ounces. Oregon hops is one thing but the Japanese characters on the label suggests a very international world. Color is mid gold. Head is fragile bubbles and the lace is long and elegant. The bottle is tall, skinny, and sleek like some wines. Opinions varied but saying '[a] thoughtful lightly spiced Pils' sums it up. To others: 'lacks the magic of real Abbey Ales' and 'faint mint finish doesn't justify price'.

St. Pauli Girl g rlp 4.0 371 While is it has no real flaws (like most German exports) we felt other European beers were a more complex and flavorful. We think it safe to say that the popular Grolsch is favored by serious beer lovers - and at a similar price and availability. Its dark variant is often just as available and we'd take that given a choice. The commercials that speak of 'having your first girl' have not hurt its popularity among college age males! 

Stack Smooth Lager
RATING: 3.0
La Crosse, Wisconsin
The fancy, 24 ounce tallboys are ornated designed in gold and black. As near as I can tell they are aimed at the 40 ounce drinker who just got a paycheck and is looking to upgrade his life a bit. High gravity, cheap lagers and malt beverages have gotten big since the 90's and show no signs of stopping. Only the names change. This one from United Beverage is a whopping 12% so it cannot be sold everyone and surprising it does not slam you with ethanol for all the sugar they apparently added to it - I seriously doubt it's clover honey. The malt smooth but it's really a high gravity, high ethanol beer-soda. It will serve that market very well but I'd sooner drink most anything else. There is some redeeming fruit, likly apple but the sugaring and some odd finish tastes end any chance of this being a good, bargain 7-11 brew. I would not blame a poor college student for finding it appealing so long as they know it is not a true lager by any stretch of the term.

Steel Reserve 2 II 
RATING: 3.5
MIlwaukee, Wisconsin
This stuff is marketed as a premium "slow brewed" tallboy (24 oz.) canned beer for about four bucks a snap. It is called a "Triple Export" which when applied to a Milwaukee brewery must mean they plan to sell it overseas somewhere. The 8.1% ABV is prominently located on the front and that provides one going for a weak-as-water "forty" with a math problem. The answer is yes - they are about equal. A 40 oz. at 4.9% is 1.96 oz. of the good stuff while this stuff carries 1.94 oz. per can. The color is very dark golden and the lace survives for minutes on end. The head can last very long or not. It is vaguely Pils like on the low-moderate intensity. It's "exceptionally smooth" as labeled and that is a double-edged switch blade when it comes to beer - such things are usually at the poles - very good or very bad. This one is perhaps a mid quality exception. I kid you not when I say it is just as good as mass market stuff like Corona Extra or Fosters though it does not compete with the Euro-Pils and US micro-Pils group. Still, when you need a can of something decent and cheap on the fly at the convenience shop - it is not a bad alternative.

Stoudt's Gold Lager (Munich Style Helles)
RATING: 3.5
Adamstown, Pennsylvania
A big dude is standing on their brewery roof on this label and holding up a massive gold and white mug, head overflowing. The head is indeed very tall but more a rapid show than something enduring. Color is light-mid yellow, Pils-like. Overall I find it a mid-potency golden lager, not clearly a Pils in flavor elements but very close to the style in the North American sense. Their Pils is a horrible entity (and overpriced as the final insult) but this is a nicer creation. I find it good, serviceable, and a nice "utility microbrew" when it might be found in a place that serves it colder than cold. It is not a great beer but compared to their filthy, toxic Pils this is a true improvement. 

Stoudt's Pils
RATING:  2.0
Adamstown, Pennsylvania
This brand hit our NC grocery stores in a big way in summer 2009 and for the most part they hit a nice price point. Color, head, and lace are about average for a North American copy. Flavor is mid strength and it comes out surprisingly bitter. A friend of mine said "German style...maybe REALLY ANGRY GERMAN STYLE!". Our bottles for the very least are severely flawed. While many Pils fail for having no Pils flavor, over-sweetened, or just weak-as-water, this one fails for offensive strength. There is nothing redeeming or even tolerable in this approach. If I'd paid for the sixpack I'd seriously think about returning it for it being undrinkable. There is nothing stale, old, or chemically identifiable in the flaws that would lead us to think we got a bad batch. We'll try it again...someday...in the interim stay away...unless you enjoy consuming raw brussel-sprouts instead of candy. 


Stroh's u rlp 3.5 377 In dark bottled form this is one of the better mid-priced American beers. The handsome navy and red package is one of the most classy US-made efforts. It has more substance than many domestics but lacks some of interesting complex taste of upscale specialty brands. We find that this is less commonly seen in long-neck dark bottles so it is not as widely bought as Michelob and Coors for example.

Sun Lik rlp 5.0 380 BEST CHINESE BEER 1993 The Hong Kong Brewery produces this very fine beer 'expertly brewed to complement exotic cuisines' according to the dragon-bearing foil label. Since many bitterish European beers are unpleasant after consuming sweet Asian sauces this claim is certainly valid. The sweetish crisp flavor has nice detail but it is not as heavy as some sweet beers. It proved a bit sharp when very cold but when moderately cool the taste was very pleasant and refined. In database versions, BrewBase gave this our "Best Chinese Beer 1993" award.

Sünner Kolsch
RATING: 5.0
Cologne, Germany
You taste the six generations of brewing mastery since 1830 and the true Kolsch-Convention compliance in this fine golden beer. You might mistake it for a fruity Pils but the finish also flashes loudly with malty depths. Yummy at ever temps from cold to cool! It is a good standard for the style if one likes something not converging too much with a Pils - that is, the less malty, weaker Kolsch. I particularly like it to compare to so-called Kolsch-style lagers from American microbrews - and frankly most of our domestic US stuff ends up looking like a Kia with bald ties racing a BMW M5 - not even a copy to be technical and pathetically out-classed. The malty notes here and fruit esters are intoxicating to me and even a Hefe-weizen lover like myself finds enough flavor and depth in this label. The fruits are blended, suggesting white grape, some pear, and a very mild apple variety. The finish gets a remotely spicy as the mouth is saturated though it remains medium-dry. This beer gets better as the session develops and it has become one of my new favorite German labels - like these brilliant brewmasters from 1830 need my admiration or yours. But they do need our admiration to the point we turn on a wider US market to them and help them grow here and get a North American rep like the big Pils makers have enjoyed for decades. On every level, this is one accomplished, engaging golden brew. Miss it, and a piece of you will stay uninformed.

Suntory Draft
RATING: 4.0
Vancouver, BC, Canada
One must read the label very carefully to determine this a brewed and bottled by Labatt of Vancouver. This beer is much more successful than the other Nipponadian label from Vancouver (Kirin Light). Taste is semi-sweet with an almost herbal tea sort of charm. We'd almost swear it had a bit of mint flavor in it. While pleasant and flavorful it lacks some depth. A richer amber version of this would likely earn our very highest praise. 

Tecate
RATING: 4.0 (cans=3.5)
Monterrey, Mexico
Cerveceria Cuauhtemoc of Monterrey makes this very fine crisp beer with a clean Pilsner taste. It is equal to virtually every European Pils-type and is distinct from every Mexican we have reported in this file. It is at least is fine as Bitburger but Dortmunder Union is superior in richness and complexity. Anyone who supposes Mexican beers are not a diverse group has not tried this beer. Generally I only buy this one on sale and then use it for blending with more interesting stuff. One can pure is enough for the day. I've had it in cans and found them less impressive.

Thomas Creek Orange Blossom Pilsener (OBP)
RATING: 4.5 
Greenville, South Carolina
Thomas Creek makes this for OBP of Orlando and yet it somehow remains "Florida's Honey Beer". Orange blossom honey is used in placed of sugar to give this Pils a crisp but sweet flavor of some quality. Some. I said: some. Anywhere below 40 deg. F. I would find it undrinkable and sinkly sweet but very cold and nearly frozen it has a refreshing approach of some merit. Color is classic Pils, the head more creamy in hue than most, finely textured with good duration overall. I do like the fact they kept a grainy Pils excellence and did not less the "OB" component overwhelm it. More warm it is too sweet and contrived to me. Very, very chilly the result is very different and worthy of our respect.

Thomas Creek Orange Blossom Pilsener2 (OBP2)
RATING: 4.5
Greenville, South Carolina
The Squared version of OBP is made with half the water, giving they tell us twice the flavor. The 11% ABV is a clue they really ramped up this product  to appeal to another audience. They use no refined sugar but twice the amount of the special honey gives a similar cane-sugar effect. It dispenses in a bright gold with hint of amber, foamy light tan head of medium duration. Remember the 11% ethanol which takes us into honey wine territory. First sip is fizzy, as nippy as a weak mouthwash and far more interesting, a delicate balance of malt and honey. There's a couple of sting jokes here but I'm currently too drenched to compose a good one. The ethanol takes the sting off the hyper-honey and  the comb juice mitigates the sting of the lofty EtOH. Sorry, that wasn't funny. It's a brew as subtle, elegant, and yet compeling as John Belushi in a bee suit. The Pilsner theme is long removed when one gets this much ethanol, hive product, and malt into any bottle. Where an ordinary honey Pils would become sickly sweet, we get a decent, saving punch of malt and "the good stuff" to bring us around. I think one could cook with this stuff as well as drink it. OBP2 chicken tenders or alligator nuggets? 

I like it but am still not convinced in the total package. It needs something more like yeast or wheat. How about orange peel - that would fit in with the source of the honey? It is what it is, an extreme indulgence that is partly delightful but not totally persuasive on the potency alone. Blend at your own risk for this is "beer concentrate" in the best sense of that phrase. This bee(r) roars at us with a 3 foot stinger as fat and determined as the mythical Texas mosquito, hefty, wicked, robust, vital, and snappy-sweet at every turn. Yet she comes flying, diving with candied charm, leaving us impressed but sloppy, and only half-smitten.

Tommyknocker Alpine Glacier Lager
RATING: 3.5
Idaho Springs, Colorado
Here is a golden lager with a very big beige head of long duration. The goal was to use fresh ingredients for a crisp, alpine-like icy appeal. It is clearly not a classic Pils and I think the majority of guides and websites classify it as the curious, polymorphic thing known as American Pale Lager. There is very little of merit in this APL class over the entire market and this label is better than most - but far inferior to most of their other products. I first thought I was not cooling it enough and use a freezer to get it super-cold - still not much better. There is some wheat flavor, a touch of grass and orange, weak generic fruit esters, some sweetness with also a bit of bitterness in the finish that saturates more after a sesson. Crispness does not have to diminish potency and satisfaction and here that margin is crossed. I do believe the finish gets worse after the first half bottle and that is never a good sign. I think this will rate a 4.0 or more with some drinkers but in general I think it needs some tuning without losing the crispness. Their Jack Hammer wheat with lemon grass should impress more if one wants a tasty summer cooler. Sometimes a brewery wants to be super diverse with a plethora of labels and some like this one get lost and bring down the breed's average.

Toohey's Export Lager a rlp 2.5 622 Sydney/Thebarton Like Swan Lager (reviewed above) this is licenced to South Australian Brewing of Thebarton and exported to the States in cans for about $7.00. The Toohey's name is famous in Sydney but it is mostly their darker or amber brews that get high international marks. Color is basic Australian lager golden but the head seems taller and more finely foamy than many others. All but one reviewer felt it was inferior to the Swans and was 'no better than a mid-price American Lager' (ie. Michelob). Lacking even the most basic hops or Pils yeast flavors it is 'one of the worst $7.00 beers inflicted on the market...it would appeal to the Corona or Foster's drinker but surely not at this price.'. Another panalist summarized her thoughts: 'I'd drink it if free but never buy it.'

Top of the Hill Leaderboard Trophy Lager
RATING: 4.5
Chapel Hill, North Carolina
These pretty pea-green cans come with a nice brown and cream shot of old golfers doing their thing with old clubs. The bright metallic lime green tab is a nice touch - great look. "We love golf. We love beer. And we know from experience that most beers consumed on the course are water hazards". Well said! This solution to that problem is unpasteurized and unfiltered. It pours Pils straw yellow, enduring white head, nice nose with perhaps a hint of fruit. It is not a classic potent pils but it has more fruit and malt than I'd have expected. Yet it is a nice major improvement on the style. The grain flavors are hominy-like, earthy, rich but not potent. Faint generic fruit esters come to the fore. Sadly if warmed too much, it gets a few odd, metallic, rough places - and that is going to happen on the course where fridges are still a rarity. Still it's a superb canned beer and accomplishes it's mission. Good choice when you're making the rounds in Chapel Hill.

Tsingtao
RATING: 3.5
China
This product of Qingdao is pronounced ching-dow. This medium light golden beer has a rich bubbly head. The initial appeal is not unlike some Canadian golds. There are semi-sweet flavors but unfortunately the lingering aftertaste degrades into occasional metallic hints that must be considered a flaw. The finishing taste was best when nearly freezing cold. It is mostly pleasant and sells for only about 50 cents more than a good Canadian sixpack of bottles. Get the freshest stuff you can.

United Taj Mahal in rlp 4.5 941 Kalyani, West Bengal This Indian-made pils comes in brown 1 pint 6 oz. bottles with a lovely illustration of the famous shrine. Sadly the labels always seem to arrive in beat up shape - we've yet to find a unscratched one. It is your basic skunky-Pils in aroma, color, and head. Flavor is quite lively, very refined, semi-sweet, and finishing with all good notes. Indeed there are some light fruit notes that set it apart from many of this style. A few reviewers did the odd displeasing flavor element but the majority of us felt it was certainly worthy competition for Europe's best. Some felt it was in fact a bit too fruity-sweet for their tastes though this was decidedly a minority opinion. We recommend it highly for your next Pils taste test.

Utica Club XX Pure Pilsener Lager
RATING: 2.5
Utica, New York
Tagged as the "first beer to be sold in the US after the prohibition" this label is classic Pils for color and head. It is decidely light on the Pils Potency Scale and not a satisfying experience overall. It is intermediate between a light Pils and a regular Light Beer with no real Pils identity. It may be clean, pure, pristine and all that Coorsoid stuff but I'd rather have some impurity if that meant giving it flavor of any real depth. There are slight sweet fruity notes but not enough of them to please. The finish is slightly off at some temps, something that needs to be worked out from a spectrum of temperature tests.

Warsteiner
RATING: 4.0
The white and gold package proclaims 'the best', 'the premium', and 'first class'. Since 1753 the Cramers of Warstein Germany have made this traditional recipe using Kaiserspring water. The Pilsner taste is less pronounced than some other Germans. We thought Dortmunder Union was superior overall. Like Bitburger a semi-bitter aftertaste could be slightly unpleasant unless accompanied with suitable foods. This label can be hard to find in stores. 

Weihenstephan Original
g rlp 3.0 399 The full name of this company is Bayerische Staatsbrauerei Weihenstephan. They date from the year 1040 and claim to be the world's oldest brewery. Yes. This Original is pale yellow with an ambitious head. It is a medium bodied Pils and quite unlike the Kristal Weizenbier that is also exported. The finish is dry and can be a bit bitter. The flavor fades quickly at mid-palate and we found it disappointing. There are so many Pils that will excite you. Don't let this low rating deter you from trying their other products. Their wheats are heavenly perfection. 

Zatec Bright Lager Beer
RATING: 4.5
Zatec, Czech Republic
Before I go on, this stuff has a very artistic, fancy collector's type cap for those of you into that form of breweriana. Curiously the Zatec Pilsner name is applied to a beer from Drake's in California and as yet I know of no connection between these two unless they are claiming to use the city's old style. The company reviewed here dates back to 1004 when I suppose folks in California were making mud bricks and monochromatic blankets. The modern brewery dates from 1801. The brand was much revitalized in terms of production and distribution in 2001 by Rolf Munding, who replaced the Communist's neglect of the firm with steady financing and research. Their website says that Tomas Lejsek, one of the nation's leading brewmasters "masterminded the changes, bringing together new technology, old brewing processes, and pure ingredients."

The name "Bright Lager Beer" is appropriate for the color is glowing yellow and not the weak straw shade of others. It has a firm malt backing but the finish is a tad rough like so many Eastern European and Russian labels; more grainy and grassy than I usually like but clearly after 1000 years they like it! Weak spicy notes occur amidst the grains and the three stages of hopping must account for some of these stronger, curious flavors not found in the computer-controlled German brands. It is smooth except in the very finish and that is one I can live with if served ultra-cold. They use a two-mash procedure, cooling the brew in their cellars to give it the good lace it offers. Open fermentation vats they claim "allow the taste to stay with the beer". Zatec hops are used with Moravian malts. Carbonation is 100% natural. In 2005, they won the "Beer of the Czech Republic"

zu-Nan Chinese Pilsner * rlp 4.0 382 This superb Pils is made in Gaungdong in China and is a much superior beer to China's Tsingtao. It is both flavorful and sweet at first palate. The color is pale yellow and the head foamy-rocky with strong persistance. It ss clearly in the SWEET PILS subclass and one of the best of that type. It does lack the depth of some dry German Pils but is quite pleasant. Finish is drier than expected. The 640ml bottle with dragon-clad label is decorative. 

Zywiec po rlp 4.0 1299 Zywiec This product of Poland is a moderately full flavored Pilsner with good earthy flavorings that let you know its of European origin. One wonders why American breweries a thousand times wealthier could not make something gold as good. Perhaps its in the yeast.
Peru Gold Peru rlp 3.5 Arequipa This Peruvian brew is a basic mid-strength Pils with 5.0% alcohol and not much good or bad to say about it. It has a pretty cap with a gold ancient diety against black. Other than the cap and novelty of trying a Peruvian beer it has little notable about it.

LAGER - SPICED AND HERBED

Schmaltz Coney Island Albino Python
RATING: 4.0
Saratoga Springs, New York
Designed with a bottle to make an old time carnival show proud (ie. "arouse your liquid curiosities"), this unusual "white lager" is spiced but is not a rip-off of a spiced Belgian White Ale by any means. Profits help the historical preservation of the old Coney Island region of NYC which is as much about beer as hotdogs and rides if you go back far enough. Color is straw yellow, cloudy to be sure, floating with yeast in the bottle - a nice thing for $6.00 per 22 oz. Lace is decent, the head mid length. It starts a nice citrus tart, perhaps overly so for my tastes, spice invading next but not the traditional Belgian formula per se. I think coriander is still a possibility but ginger and anise/licorice appears to be in the atypical mix. It's even a bit sour at some notes in the near-lambic style. It's fizzy in the sip, some Pils notes rounding it out, a few notes undistinguished and weaker, hops sometimes faintly bitter in later themes. It is all over the map in flavor notes and one gets different things even at the same temperature. The pour of ample yeast makes it fruitier, of course. I think they meant well but claims of it as an American Wheat are much exagerated and do not match the contents in my opinion. It may do better with warming to say 45-50 degrees F. but even then I had some muddled, varied feelings; as mingled and heterogenous as the flavors.

LAMBIC

Belle-Vue Framboise b 9 4.5 641 Brussels Framboise is a type of LAMBIC that uses raspberries in a long process that takes 3-3.5 years or longer. This is no popular honey raspberry lageroid thing nor a watery wine cooler. In fact it takes more time and art than many wines. By volume it is priced like an $8-9 750ml wine. A well-charged cork reminds you that European magic is about to hit your glass. The sparkling aura of a classic champagne is obvious. You could even serve it as 'a new raspberry champagne from Belgium' and get away with it 9 times out of 10. Color is red tinged orange. It is more tart than their Kriek (Cherry) and by far less sugary than popular raspberry beers from the US. Reviewers said 'well-matured but an everyday drink' and 'true berry power... flavor is not intrusive'.
Belle-Vue Gueuze b 9 642 Brussels GUEUZE is a style of Belgian LAMBIC that blends young and old barrels for a clever combination of respective characteristics. Color is pale-medium amber and the rocky head is white and fine-textured. The label claims 'clear golden color' so perhaps their color analyst had a few too many. Production takes up to 3 years so the $3.50-4.50 price for just 12.67 ounces is actually accept- able. A Gueuze can age for another 1-2 years as a good red wine. It has a nice tart fruity flavor but a quality mellowness that shows a wheat base. Reviewers said 'quite an interesting beer that never seems to taste the same at each sip...there is something new to discover each time.' and 'wonderful blend of citrus, malt, peach, and a tart apple'.

Belle-Vue Kriek Lambic b 9 4.0 640 Brussels Kriek or Cherry Lambic is one of the favorite versions of that broad ale style. Color is a glowing cherry red with a big head and carbonation that lasts until you consume it. Some kriek lambics favor the sweet cherry side while others are notably tart. This one is nice compromise so you never think you're consuming an flavored pop. Reviewers did however disagree some- what: 'real fruit flavor is a plus but Lindeman's [Kriek] is a far more sophisticated'. Another said 'extremely palatable and could replace wine on numerous social occasions'.
Boon Faro Partotale b 9 5.0 42 BEST BEER TO REPLACE WINE 1994 Brouwerij Boon ('Bone') is a revivalist brewer from Lembeek Belgium. Faro is a type of lambic sweetened with candy sugars. This costly ($4 per 12 oz.) product spends 2 years in oak casks and is blended with a wheat beer. Color is clouded amber and carbonation is lavish. Flavor is extremely rich and fruit-filled with spice, hop, and wheat notes in perfect harmony. Finish is drier than many lambics. High recommended. Beer drinker's champagne. 

Castle St. Louis Framboise Lambic
RATING: 5.0
van Honesbrouck, Belgium
Bottled on 090708, my test bottle came wrapped in black foil and the useful champagne-style hardware. It pours the most splendid amber-raspberry color, akin to a paler cherry coke - and you far more refined and pricey a beverage. The head was ivory-pink, hinting to the flavors to come. "Oh...delightful...delightful...heaven" was my first unscripped exclamation and those words are none to be uttered for a Bud Light even the hottest of days. 

The raspberry juice is true and authentic and would rival an raspberry smoothie blended to Grey Goose on any day of the year - though this lambic is more sour and less syrupy than the forementioned mixed fresh drink. No seeds either. In my shops, the Framboise is the best known of their labels and is a fine place to begin. My trusted reviewers here said "berry perfection...more juice than ale but I understand and appreciate that" and "farthest thing from a crap berry wheat of so many microbrewies...lambic or not this should be THE standard for fruit ales".

Chapeau Fraises Lambic b 9 4.0 506 Wambeek This strawberry lambic is surprisingly sweet and aromatic if you consider many strawberry lambics are rather lactic and bitter. This appears to be a young one and reminds one more of a good strawberry 'girl drink'. It lost a bottle rating in our book for a flowery taste that was a bit disconcerting and hard to describe. One had the odd sense of 'drinking perfume' in the words of one person. This is nothing like the Lindemans Frambroise lambic and if you can get these both the comparison is most educational. The color of this is a neat reddish-orange that is more beautiful than most amber beers and makes a terrific presentation. The color is so cheery that one of our friends thought it was a skidrow fruit wine until he tasted it. Unique.
Chapeau Gueuze b 9 5.0 505 Wambeek A GUEUZE LAMBIC is one blended from both old (expensive) and young (cheaper) age beers. Therefore it may sell for a buck or so less than other Chapeau labels. The rapid lace and big head also distinguish it at first view. The label also has no single fruit theme (ie. strawberry or banana) but is still sweet and fruity with nice depth. The character and sophistication are equal to many lambics but it is quite sweet. It is possibly more recognizable as a 'beer' than many lambics which have acidic or wine-like flavors. Still the lack of a theme may disappoint a fruit lambic devotee. A Gueuze is simply a Gueuze and nothing much more. For what it should be this one is perfect.
Chapeau Mirabelle Lambic b 9 5.0 686 BEST LAMBIC BEER 1995 Wambeek Chapeau is known for a wide range of lambics including tropical fruits and the wonderful banana one. This MIRABELLA LAMBIC is made with special plums although at first glance the label fruit resembles a green apple. Expect to pay $4-6 for this long-fermented treat. Like many Chapeau lambics it is cloudy. The basic color is a glowing whitish amber. The head is very tall, enduring, and of minute white foam units. It is quite sweet at first sip but the finish is slightly drier. Reviewers remarked it was 'the very best lambic I have tried...excellent marriage of fruit and wheat beer' and 'not tart like most cherry or berry lambics'. We tried a lovely little blend with amber and stout brews and came up with luscious combinations like Plum Porter.
Chapeau Pineapple Lambic b 9 5.0 504 Wambeek If they made beer in Honolulu this would be it. Wheat beer and pineapple juice are fermented in oak barrels and without filtering is transferred to bottle for conditioning. This is perhaps the easiest to drink lambic you could imagine as it is sweet and has no acidic elements that make some a bit strong. On the other hand it could be called a pineapple wine cooler although the flavor elements are clearly deeper and more alluring. It is 'better than the best Pina Colada' according to one reviewer. But $4.50 for a glass and a half is not everyone's idea of a good deal. This is a taste treat but be expected to pay a handsome price if you wish to share it with a few friends. It get's our award as the best lambic tasted this quarter.

Chapeau Tropical Lambic b l 4.5 645 Wambeek Call it 'Chapeau Tropical' if you like but in truth it is really good old ordinary BANANA BEER. Maybe it's not so ordinary as any taster or observer will remark. A store clerk flipped it upside down and remarked on the big floating yellow sediment. Fear and an offer to replace it were in her eyes until we replied with a stranger look: 'it's more flavorful that way'. Okay. One German beer fan liked the name 'Hefe-Bunchen'. Color is foggy mid gold. The head is big, pure white, and finely bubbled. You can guess what fruit the aroma was like. The flavor is somewhat like their pineapple lambic as 2-3 years in oak barrels tends to mellow out the old chemistry and bring out fruit sugars. This is one classy beer but not everyone likes a fruit beer.

Chapeau Tropical Lambic b 9 4.5 645 Wambeek Call it 'Chapeau Tropical' if you like but in truth it is really good old ordinary BANANA BEER. Maybe it's not so ordinary as any taster or observer will remark. A store clerk flipped it upside down and remarked on the big floating yellow sediment. Fear and an offer to replace it were in her eyes until we replied with a stranger look: 'it's more flavorful that way'. Okay. One German beer fan liked the name 'Hefe-Bunchen'. Color is foggy mid gold. The head is big, pure white, and finely bubbled. You can guess what fruit the aroma was like. The flavor is somewhat like their pineapple lambic as 2-3 years in oak barrels tends to mellow out the old chemistry and bring out fruit sugars. This is one classy beer but not everyone likes a fruit beer.
Diamondback Gueuze Lambic 9 


Lindemans Kriek Lambic b 9 4.0 189 BEST LAMBIC 1992 This ale from Vlezenbeek Belgium is of the Lambic class meaning that fruit it added for a secondary fermentation. Barley-malt and wheat are fermented and then aged in oak barrels. Fresh cherries are added in the second process. Like American Champale it is VERY bubbly but it is much superior ale. The cork in the bottles and $6 price for one 12 oz. tells you that. It is a cloudy reddish brown. It is exceedingly tart so some may not care for it.
Samuel Adams Cranberry Lambic u 9 3.0 313 This unique holiday Lambic (fruit beer) is made from a wheat beer flavored with cranberries. The bright cranberry red label sold for just $2.29 - a good deal under the $5-7 for Belgium Lambics with cherry flavoring. While interestingly tart and with nice 'lace', it lacks the rich fruitful punch of the Belgian masters. In mildness and price it is clearly mass market. If you want a cranberry buzz go with Ocean Spray and Vodka. Nice but disappointing.

OKTOBERFEST/FALL/AUTUMN/PUMPKIN - ALE AND LAGER

I realize this is a rather artificial classification and includes beers of various styles, both ales and lagers. Still the marketing fascinates me and based on nomenclature alone this group has earned a life of its own. Some of these in the broad Marzen style and others a merely dark, more malty and sweet versions of another product line; some dark lagers and Doppelbocks. Others are Pumpkiny-spiced ales and others just about anything for the end-of-year marketing campaign. 


 

Abita Fall Fest 1994
    u    rf    4.0    509        Abita Springs LA    Abita has made some decent beers that are most drinkable due to a fair price.    Their Christmas 1994 effort was perhaps not the ultimate Holiday beer but    then we did not pay $11 for the sixpack either. This Fall Fest beer is    more interesting. It is one of the brightest amber beers on the planet and    the carbonation is long but finely textured. It is sweet and candy-like    in a style that is perfected by Big Rock of Alberta Canada. The hops and    malt balance are satisfying but if you've tried some of the Big Rock labels    you'll this a tad underpowered. It will not disappoint if tasted with the    usual assortment of store beers as very few ambers are as pleasant and easy    going down.

Abita Fall Fest 1995    u    rf    4.5    703        Abita Springs LA    The 1995 product differs markedly from our notes on the 1994 effort. The same    bright amber color is there and red tints are evident. Flavor seems less sweet    and a strong malt theme predominates. Minor hop notes round it out some. The    candy-like carmel nature of the 1994 is missing. 1995 rates 0.5 bottle higher.    This year the price was $7.50 so it is no bargain either. Reviewers noted 'a    clear attention to quality with the maltiness of some German darks' and 'one of    the better American ambers under $8 though a few Brown Ales are more interesting    for me...'. It is certainly one of the best Abita beers.       

Aktien-Brauerei Oktoberfest    g    rf    3.0    894            This was a real surprise. Imagine an Oktoberfest beer with the pale straw    yellow color and big white heads of a Pils. This would be that reality. Flavor    is on the fuller side of the Pils theme at first palate but it quickly    becomes thinner and drier. The finish is slightly 'irregular' as one    experienced German beer put it; even though it had just arrived in September    and had to be fresh. It is overall a very schizophrenic sort of brew and    surely not what one expects behind such a label. A few folks rated it as high    as 4.0 bottles but most folks went lower. We didn't find anyone who would    highly recommend it either a Pils or O-fest brew. At $2.89 per large bottle    there are many superior choices around.

.Avery The Kaiser
RATING: 4.5
Avery, Colorado
Avery products are generally very fine, some remarkable, and others quite mid quality in the crowded industry today. This is a one of the higher level presentations. Color is dark amber-bronze, the head thinish and short. Sweet caramel hits one as does faint fruit and faint bitter and spicy hops. The 10% ABV is fairly well hidden and may in fact prevent it from coming to your local grocery store. This is a global thermonuclear malt attack and some of these big boomers are done well and others not so much. It might have been overbearing in the hands of other people but they pulled off an approachable thick, malty invasion with much class. The dry, high alcohol approach here and the refined hops saves this one from average, even above average status. They have this one just about right but I want a little more tuning. I regret I cannot say what or how this might be done. One friend said they need to bring the malt down once notch, the spice down half a notch, and the ABV down to 7-8%.

Beck's Octoberfest
RATING: 3.0
Germany
I've always gone with Becks late at night when only the local mini-mart was open and sampled either their decent Pils or when possible the Dark stuff. I'll pay $11.00 for a six at that hour if thirsty enough. You normally expect a fest beer from a German standard, legendary firm to be either sweeter, maltier, hoppier, or all three - usually the first two anyhow. I don't know if their 2008 importaton is created for a perceived as undemanding American market but this stuff is very disappointing, perhaps the weakest and most simple German special label around in years. It's not strong, not sweet (okay), hardly spiced (okay maybe), and the malt is simple, direct, and very underpowered. I consumed 6 over several days at various temps and despite my initial low rating, I found it no better with other day's opinions or varied serving temperatures. Very sad.


Bell's Octoberfest
RATING: 3.5
Comstock, Michigan
This 5.5% ABV item an interesting label graphic, a bit different and fun, mostly in pumpkin orange, dark gold, and black. If you look really close you see the orange background is actually an autumnal leaf, likely a sugar maple. Color is light amber and the head of mid-duration in medium-large bubbles. It pours with little apparent carbonation. Overall it's on the thinner side, fairly equal malt and hops balance (some will disagree with me), and yet not a weak marzen either. Malt is surely more prominent at the first taste. This is perhaps the idea of the faux-simple beer, weak and an average malt-hops creation on one level, but yet there is MORE to be discovered. Some folks think that more is metal and ragged bitter hops but I suspect it's a diversity of malts that is not easy to pin down.

Blue Moon Harvest Pumpkin Ale
RATING: 4.0
Cincinnati OH
This beer is well...pumpkin colored with a lasting head of medium size. Flavors are 'natural' but we are unclear if the real pie flavor is more the product of authentic spicing or some real melon fruit. (By the way most canned pumpkin pie comes from commercial squash rather than pumpkins which are too stringy to process). In any case the flavor is pleasant and good with enough malt base to remind you this is real beer. Like most Blue Moon products it has a bit of a thin finish and could use some sound refinement to become a true gourmet microbrew beer of top quality. Since spicing beer is no easy exercise we were largely pleased with the effort. But better pumpkin ales can be made


Boulder Fall Fest Ale    u    rf    4.5    841    BEST FEST BEER PACKAGING 1996    Boulder CO    This fest brew is light amber in color under an ivory head of fine duration.    Flavor is true to style with a sweet malty theme supported by quality hopping.    It worth the $7.99 price though even some German seasonals get imported for less    cash. The label and package win a new award we had to create to recognize    this effort. Reviewers noted 'refreshing, smooth, flavorful...more hop-filled    than traditional Germans and that is a great thing!' and 'very fine beer either    cool or at room temperature during a long meal...superb with a big Thanksgiving    or other holiday feast.'.       
Brew Moon Octoberfest Autumn Amber        rf              

Buffalo Bill's Pumpkin Ale u raa 4.5 650 Dubuque IA/Hayward CA Buffalo Bill's Brewery is actually in Hayward CA but the brew is made in the town of Dubuque Iowa. Color is very bright....you guessed it...pumpkin orange. It tends to arrive just before Halloween. Taste is most unique and to most of us quite pleasant. Reviewers said 'harmonous pumpkin pie and malt combo is surprising good' and 'very drinkable...not sure if it is spices or actual pumpkin flavor I am finding attractive.'. If you close your eyes and asked someone about it without giving the name a few may guess a spiced ale. It comes off being slightly sweet but not overly so. There is just a hint of bitterness at some places and one expert thought it was 'slightly overspiced but perhaps that is needed to keep the novelty image going'. Recommended.
                                        
Capital City Oktoberfest        rf                                                       
Capital Garten Brau Octoberfest        rf  
      
Carolina Cottonwood Pumpkin Ale
RATING: 4.5
Mooresville, North Carolina
This dark brownish-amber offering from Carolina Brewery for fall is authentically spicd in good balance. The bitter:sweet balance is ideal or nearly so. It's very drinkable, quite pleasant, not a novelty, nor some oversaturated fest. The product is 6% ABV and has won several awards includig a 1999 Bronze in the American Beer Festival, 2000 Silver in the World Beer Cup, and 2001 Gold inthe US Beer Championship as Best in the Southeast.                                              

Coors Oktoberbest (Marzan)    u    rf    4.0    463        Golden    Following a nice non-Bavarian Weizenbier this Fall 1994 is improved from    previous year's efforts. The hops complexity is almost right and is    surprisingly fine. Given what Miller Special Reserve and Rock Bock have    shown of late there is some hop for major US brewers. Still this brew    is no match for a Spaten or Adams fest product which cost a dollar more    or perhaps the same on sale. If you match this with the hideous new    Coors Artic (sic) Ice one can see Coors at both spectrums of the flavor    spectrum - true beer and buzz water. Like the Weizenbier this label has    superb artwork. Unfortunately not all supermarkets seem to have it.   

Cottonwood Pumpkin Ale
RATING: 5.0
Mooresville, North Carolina
This bright pumpkin-amber brew has a surprisingly strong lace. The flavor proves very authentic - almost "liquid pie" real. Ginger, cinnamon, and allspice are used along with the real fruit...actually commercial pumpkin pie filling is a commercial squash. Frankly, I thought this brew was more refreshing and true-to-dessert flavor than one slice of grocery store pie I compared it to. I could not want or expect a finer pumpkin ale anywhere anytime. Kudos on this level of accomplishment when some big breweries are still working on getting their Punkin' fest stuff right.

Count Arco's Festbeer    g    rf    5.0    87            Arcobrau of Bavaria makes this Pils beer with typical color and an above    average abundance of carbonation. Though called a Festbeer and released here    just before October one might expect it to be other than a golden Pils. It    is merely a fine ordinary Pils that starts pleasantly bitter and ends up with    a sweet smoothness. At $8.00 a sixpack there are probably better values in    the Pils field. Still it is highly competant and well worth a many tastes.               

Dinkel Acker Oktoberfest    g    rf    5.0    96            This D-A import is a superb dark beer with more darkness than the majority    of German fests. While sweeter than normal continental darks it has the same    overall virtue as a good German dark. It is superior to their regular issue Dark. I've enjoyed it off and on since 1993 and always find it a good purchase.      

Flying Dog Dogtoberfest
RATING: 3.5
Denver, Colorado, often brewed in Frederick, Maryland
This Marzen is just 5.1% ABV and one gets nice doses of caramel, sugar, malt, and faint grains. It is rich amber-red with a weak head. It is weaker than many marzens and certainly that low ABV value will put it in a different subclass than the bigger, stronger, throat-scorching stuff offered in this season. It is somewhat hard to evaluate for the mixed qualities and yet it goes with many foods. Perhaps we should judge fest beers in terms of the strong, sip-worthy, connisseur stuff and the restaurant-loving, "our seasonal beers include...", food friendly stuff. Good food fixes this one but it shouldn't have too. It is too weak for me and yet if I'm eating a lemon-butter linguine in some overpriced palace on October 20th, I just might gave this one a better score. Flying Dog has and continues to do better on other bold labels and I think this one bears a "rethink".
             
Geary's Autumn Ale
RATING: 5.0
Portland, Maine
Geary is a legend among genuine, fanatic-class beer enthusiasts, the real suds-heads if you will. He does not disappoint here with something of a subtle, smooth, scotch-like approach to brewing. The dark, very dank reddish-brown brew has a fat head in domed, rocky tan mass. Flavor is mid-dry/sweet, a drench of malt but kind of like getting "bombed by love" instead of being carpet-bombed by malt. This is subtle yet very rewarding sipping brew and only folks on Geary's level are capable of this. This is one to share with your European visitors to knock their lederhosen and Argyles clean off into space. This is just as refined as a triple-distilled scotch, so addicting in it's directness you wonder "what the $@#&* are those other brewers doing" and why aren't more microbrews at this elite level? Get a mass spec machine, analyze the heck out of this stuff and clone it up ya'll. I brought out the thesaurus for the worthy occasion of nipping this nectar. This stuff is spiffy, swanky, enlightened, sublime, and sauve and twenty very good things more. I love this stuff. Get me kegs to stake upon other kegs. I can sleep standing up and park my car on the street.                                          

Hacker-Pschorr Original Oktoberfest (Amber Marzen)    g    rf    4.0    602        Munich    Since 1417 Hacker-Pschorr of Munich has made traditional German brew. If you    get by the name (which in English sounds like a skin disease of computer    nerds) you'll enjoy a full-bodied and colorful beverage. It has one of the    most delightful amber colors but the head can be short-lived. Malt and hops    (more of the former) are not held back and unlike many Oktoberfest beers    this one does not hide behind food coloring and sweetness. As Beck's 1995    Fest sold for $2-3 below this one's $7.29 price they already start with one    disadvantage compared to larger importers. While this beer has all the color    and flavor one could want not all of our reviewers were in love. The lack of    sweetness yielded some 'bitter' comments. Dry Malt lovers were best pleased.

Hofbrau Bavaria Oktoberfest    g    rf    5.0    158    TIE: BEST FEST BEER 1993        This light amber-colored seasonal brew from Kulmbach has lively carbonation.    Like many festival products it is moderately flavorful and with a sugary    finish - Count Arco Festbeer being one German exception. This is what Coors    Winterfest should be like if it would attract serious beer devotees. Every    sip satisfies; either alone or with food. As of this writing in October 1993    this label and North Coast Octoberfest were our two best fests of the year.               

Johnson's Das Oktoberfest Bier    u    rf    3.5    906        Charlotte NC    Given the praise we had for their Brown Ale we thought this seasonal would    prove equally refined. Unfortunately it was not. Color is rich amber brown with    a lasting cream head of resonable duration. Flavor is malty as mandatory for    the style and more dry than is often the case. It meets the Reinheitsgebot    which few American fest beers can say. But when even larger German Oktoberfests    are priced close to this one we see reason for going with something so    mono-dimensional in flavor. While this company does show admirable skill (and we    know they can do wonderful things) this is not one of the most polished    products. The 'busy' label with mixed old and new graphics got mostly low    marks. How 'bout doing a version of your Brown Ale next year guys?!?



Left Hand Oktoberfest Marzen Lager
RATING: 3.5
Longmont, Colorado
The pale amber fluid has a strong cream and 6% ABV is a tad above the common trade material. The rich scintillating malts are warm, earthy, and teutonic - unless the later word is now or has become as offensive as saying beer-swilling, kraut-slurping nazi bastards; in which case I retract it being of German origin myself and able to blame it on self-hatred or something else trendy. It is not a full bore fest beer, too weak for most folks, but I do not like O-fest stuff over-malted or over-sweetened to insame levels. A fest can be weaker if complex and layered enough but this is simple, simplistic, and simple-minded in one bottle.  I got a "B" on Beer Advocate and while I often disagree with them, those 161 folks got it right. I know these folks can do better work and they should try. A fest is not a marketing opportunity - it's a rare chance to impress within a style whose accomplished examples should not be too hard to copy or twist a bit. Twisting or copying, they can and should do better work but in the meantime it's a "no try".

New Holland Ichabod Ale Brewed with Pumpkin
RATING: 4.5
Holland, Michigan
The dark gray and black label is ringed in a very somber shade of pumkin orange, a headless horseman holding the head of a evil-looking pumpkin in his hand. I'll assume this fruit-headed version of Ichabod Crane of Headless Horseman legend and thus this is mostly a Halloween beer - though I purchased it in December at Total Wine. We might have expected this brew to be pumpkin colored but in fact it is a medium golden-yellow with a large whitish head. I got a few Pils notes on first sip and perhaps like so many brewers today they use German Pils malt or yeast to get thing going. The fruit notes come to the fore soon but are moderate and in balance. What does pumpkin taste like? Anyone know? Actually, we all known what spiced pumpkin pie is supposed to taste like but pumpkin has a very different flavor in reality. In fact, most commercial pumpkin pie filling is actually made from a variety of squash called Hubbard - don't tell the kids - and is highly sugared and spiced before we get a slice. Hubbard is an ugly grayish, football-shaped thing with ugly blisters and bumps on it but it's flesh has a better flavor, less fiber, and good orange color than the real pretty punkin's of the market. If Ichabod was carrying a Hubbard squash we'd all be very upset for it they look like giant tumors or the Elephnant Man's face. This is a nice ale, best very cold, finely contrived and formulated, and a delightful drink.
                                                
North Coast Oktoberfest 1993    u    rf    5.0    251    TIE: BEST FEST BEER 1993        This seasonal amber has one of the best heads of any 'Fest' beer we've had    this fall. Color is bright reddish amber. The flavor is more full and    appealing than even many German fests and provides a wonderful menu of    hops and malt. The sweet hop flavor is delightful and when compared to    Adam's Octoberfest it is a clear favorite. This charming brew is a fine    choice to convince your friends that Bud is not the best American beer.               
Ohio Fest Beer        rf                                                       

Paulaner Oktoberfest    g    rf    5.0    269            This Munich product is technically a malt liquer but it is dark amber and with    a full taste like many winter beers and amber beers. The head is very long in    duration and creamy in color. It has a strong malt taste that intensifies    after a second but finishes smooth and clean. There are hints of transitional    bitterness but these are never offensive. This DARK MALT is a must try but the    $10.50 six pack price we paid is high. It is very fine at room temp. as well.               

Paulaner Oktoberfest
RATING: 4.5
Munich, Germany
While Paulaner dates to 1516 they are first to admit that Oktoberfest is only as old as 1810. This Munich Marzen style brew is true to national form with bright amber color, ample malt and hops flavor, and a rather syrupy sweetness. The head seems are bit smaller than many other fests from Munich. Reviewers noted such factors as "a shade more malty than hoppy and overall a very well-rounded beverage for any season" and "it is only in the sophisticated finish one finds a refined hops bitterness". Most of us thought it was very competantly brewed and flavored enough but some found a lack of something intangible that separates an excellent Marzen from a perfect one. To another it was "sickly sweet by my third bottle". Comical label picture.

Penn Oktoberfest Lager Beer 2007
RATING: 4.0
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
The "Penn" name is usually associated with the noted Ivy League University which exists in Philadelpha, founded by some clever dude named Ben Franklin. The folks at PennBrew.com are actually from the rival city of Pittsburgh and were founded in 1986 by Tom Pastorius to make authentic German beers. They're in the historic (what old things good or bad are not historic by the way?) region of Deutschtown on the north side of the Steel City in what was the 18438 Eberhardt and Ober Brewery. This large bottle came wrapped in white foil with a simple, strong cap. The label has that blue and white checkboard pattern used by some other brewers, the script generally "European" in style, and the picture of a brew garden facilitator (ie. smoking hot beer wench) and some guy in traditional garb holding a stein aloft. Blonde Beer Wench is holding six large mugs and stop at my table regularly on the hour and then a hour after closing time. The color is dark color, a very light amber perhaps, with a cream head of some duration.

It was very affordable ($6.00 for 750ml) and that made me quite suspicious. ABV is 4.5% and they're website description of "exceptionally smooth and mellow" add up to weak on two accouts. It has a nice malty balance, a Marzen on the moderate side, with some sweet notes but the finish dry in general. It is hideous (weak, metallic, watery) at room temp and I'd not want to serve this with any dinner where it might sit awhile. Very cold it's nicer with the hops and malt racing for favor, the later winning out in the end. I find it weaker than the style usually requires but as I've stated before, I judge beer on it's flavor merits regardless of name or claimed style. It is a solid, decent product but it doesn't wow anyone. They can do much better work and thus I'm surprised a seasonal from them is not Ivy League slick or Pittsburgh strong. Have they sold out to BRD (Bar Room Drinkability)? I suspect not since this is a seasonal and not a year-long product that affects profits in a huge way. I enjoyed the Wench but I did not respect her in the end.

Pete's Wicked Oktoberfest    u    rf    4.0    787        St. Paul MN    This arrived in our shops in very early September, beating the more famous fest    brews by many weeks. Color is bright amber with a lasting ivory head. We did    notice in faint gold letters (against a brown background) the letters 'malt    liquor'. No it's not some cheap ML but in some states that is required for a    brew with a bit higher alcohol content; though still very low by German stand-    ards. First of all it is surprisingly dry for a fest beer; most are usually    amber bocks drenched in sugar. It almost has a sophisticated grain taste like    their Multi-grain beer. The malt and hops bite are profound but not satisfying    to all of us. There were also clear fruit notes (cherry) not unlike an ale.    It is different and controversial; hard to rate. Great taste test beer.                      

Samuel Adams Octoberfest
RATING: 5.0
The brown and red-labeled special is bright clear amber with pale cream head of some staying power. The side lace is better than for most Adam's products but one usually wants a show to justify fest beer prices. The flavor was a surprise. It is sweet (as expected) plus fruitful and a tad bitter. Sam Smith Nut Brown Ale has similar flavors. While it is not a fruity ale like North Coast or Anderson the Saaz and Hallertau hops are apparent. It is drinkable either cold or at room temp while waiting for the feast.   

Shipyard Pumpkinhead Ale
RATING: 5.0
Portland, Maine
The label immediately draws attention for the bronze statue in green patina riding a great horse and having his head replaced by an evil but slightly smiling orange fruit. This may be the first GOLDEN "pumpkin" ale in my inventory for usually they match the color of the brew to something approaching a rich pumpkin orange or at least a respectable amber. Good for them, so far. I like this approach. It's a golden ale, not overly malted as the season often demands, but yet it is infused with delightful spices of finest order. They're giving me the pumpkin pie spice without the heavy, cloying thud of a chunky, oversweetened pulp.

You know how you chew granny's perfect, flacky crust and get a little piece of spicy flesh with it - that experience describes the understated, discreet, refined delivery we have here from the Shipyard. Super fun trip, dreamy and inviting at any temp. Holding back the excessive malt and wicked sugar is something others should copy. Fest beer is not a time to roll out beer soda and these folks have the opposite just right. It's almost like a Belgian vessel for delivering pumpkin pie spice with a wit beer shell - good concept with an even better realization in luscious liquid form. I wonder if they'd make a stronger ABV, yeast-in-the-bottle version for us sometime...heaven's angels would be asking for Oktoberfest passes by the millions.

Spaten Ur-Marzen (Oktoberfestbier)
RATING: 5.0
Ur- means 'original' and -Marzen means 'March'. How is a March beer a true    October beer? Marzen is brewed in March, put in summer barrels, and then    enjoyed for Oktoberfest. This bright amber with brownish head is moderately    flavorful and quite malty. Michael Jackson gave it a rare 4 stars and we    must agree. It is not sweet like some fall and winter brews. While not potent  like Spaten Optimator it is equally satisfying and finely crafted. it remains among the elite of the teutonic fest brews.

Starr Hill Festie Oktoberfest Lager
RATING: 3.0
Crozet, Virginia
"Life is a carnival" says the label originating from Charlottesville, VA; showing off a fantastically neat ferris wheel with a block-wide, star-shaped red center. This "gift of great beer" is curious. Charlottesville for all the Jeffersonian architecture and "southern Ivy" charm is hardly a party town or remotely festive - unless the local team with a round or ovoid ball just beat Duke or North Carolina in the most humiliating fashion. Perhaps enough of these fine golden-amber concoctions will improve the somber tone of the place and lead them to a sudsy, hopalicious, swinging and jovial time - the kind of time you forget yet sorta of remember for being so good. Hold the press. This beer is unique and funny beer - funny odd not funny festive. There is a nice malty frame and what might be called a vegetable lager theme going on. What? Sip again. Yes. True. There is strange bitter hopping but more dominant is a very earthy, vegan, grainy approach here - more approach than real appeal so far. This is a formula gone astray for it has neither bright notes, spices, extra sweetness, more hops, or ample malt. It is nearly anti-festive. One friend with experience said "what the hell are they thinking...is this Oktoberbest tonic for our winter health?". Then I think of Charlottesville and wonder...yes, this may be festive for the place in the context and for the right audience. Fortunately I live in Raleigh and know better.

Stoudt's Fest (Marzen)
RATING: 5.0
Wilkes-Barre, Pennsylvania
Stoudt Brewery of Wilkes-Barre was founded in 1987 as the first microbrewery    in Penn's state since prohibition. In 1991 and 1992 this product won the    Gold in the Great American Beer Festival (the US Academy Awards for Beer) in    the Marzen group. This is one short and distinguished history. This clearly    earns our top 5 bottles with any out of Germany or California. Color is    bright but palish amber with a lasting thin head. While sweet that is second-    ary to the rich malt flavor coming from 5 varieties. It is then 'medium to    aggressively hopped' with best from Germany and the US. Even better it is that    they brew it ALL YEAR. Carol Stoudt uses the phrase 'superb mouthfeel'. We    are finicky and skeptical when it comes to sweet fests. This is a treasure.
Thirsty Dog Oktoberfest        rf       
                                               
Victory Festbier
RATING: 4.5
Downingtown, Pennsylvania
Using German malts, the boys from PA here have made an amber lager that is special in the truest sense of that overused word. The enormous golden-tan head shows off well in a glass - just what a festival demands. The depth of earthy, hominy malts is there, very true to Old World flavors but actually deeper than some hailing from the fatherland. It is sweet enough - something almost requisite for a fest bier these days - and yet balanced and not overdone with annoying sugars. Still it is sticky to the tastebuds ("mouthfeel") and yet malt comes through for all the O-fest trickery. It is "full-bodied" and with "a depth of character" as the label text affirms - a promise well kept.

Weeping Radish Fest Beer
RATING: 3.0
Durham, North Carolina
This product of Durham NC in the 90's is one of few of their products to be available in    bottles. While their brewery products are normally superior this bottled product was a profound disappointment. Light amber in color it has a very substantial head and high carbonation. Flavor is a bit sweet but it never yields the hop and malt flavor one expects from a micro-brewed beer. It is simply weak and boring. It is more malt than hops. Purity Law ingredients. 

Weeping Radish Oktoberfest
RATING: 3.5
Jarvisburg, NC
Weeping Radish once had breweries on both the coast of North Carolina (Manteo) and in the more urban scene at the Durham, favoring the college (ie. preppy, affluant Duke) crowd. They are the state's oldest real microbrewery having begun in 1986. This 2008 version is from Farmbrew LLC of Jarisburg NC (the brewery opened in 2006), an outerbanks area not far from Elizabeth City and Norfolk, Virginia. Curiously, they offer their own 35 cent credit on returned bottles toward their other products - and that's not a government program. "Private Beer Labels are Available" too. The newest version has a simple label with a photo of a busty beer maiden on the label with four pints in hand.  The brew is darker amber than before (according to our notes), the lace strong and lasting, and the head ivory with medium size. It is surprising tart for a fest beer and buttery malt arrives strong but only the the very final finish notes.

There is some hops but not very much and the product is moderate to weak malt overall, a flaw we found in the older recipe. The sweetness seems to have been tempered. The malts given some comforting warmth and there are very pleasing notes but it does not match the quality of most thing domestic or foreign under a fest-like name. I have idea what they are doing here and perhaps they do not either though a Marzen tyle is claimed on the website. The Beer Advocate website gives it an average of "C" (many top reviewers using the D and D+ ratings) and they end up with "B" and "B+" for many things I think are quite inferior. Many reviewers there and in my tasting were confused and wondered again what was intended here. Is this a real attempt at Marzen or something else. Is the recipe old and revered and no one dared to challenge or refine it? I do not know but since I like their Black Radish I somehow care. Please do better and someone nice do help them.

Weyerbacher Imperial Pumpkin Ale
RATING: 4.5
Easton, Pennsylvania
This is a new meaning to "IPA". The royalty comes in part from the potent 8% ABV. The spices are cinnamon, cloves, cardamon, and nutmeg - a slightly different take than some others. Color is medium-dark amber, a shade or so darker than other pumpkin ales I've tried this season (2009). Head is ivory, lasting somewhat. Flavor is not "pie authentic" (see Cottonwood Pumpkin Ale for one that is) but it's still very pleasant. I don't get strong clove flavors with any dessert pie but yet it works very well in this context. At $11 for four 12 ouncers, one has a right to expect great things - and we get it. The ethanol is toasty and warming and the spices unique too. I feel it deserves a great rating but it's not my idea of perfect refreshment, comfort, or festival feel.

Weissenohe Monk's Fest
RATING: 4.0
Weissenohe, Germany
The Weissenohe Benedictine Monastery is located the hills of northern Bavaria (Franconia) and the fat, jolly monk on the label is fun, good marketing to be sure. $4.99 in November 2008 got me a 1 pint 9 oz. bottle with Grolsch-style hardware called "Traditional Marzen Fest Beer". Color is a bright pale amber, favoring golden-amber tints overall. The head is violent and rapidly towering. Lace is low to moderate but long. The nose is very malty. As fest beers go it is surprisingly dry and only moderate in flavor. There are good bitter finish notes unmitigated by any sugar at all. It's very smooth and very good despite the deviation from the usual US supermarket offerings which include the big Germany breweries these days. It is not a "value beer" by any means but German fests in fancy bottles rarely are with the current exchange rate. It's a competent malt broth but is not assertive, memorable, and really special in any flavor note. It's a bit like the old dark wood cabinet at the back of the room that cost someone four days salary in the past. It does it's job calmly and without decoration or charm - you rarely have reason to notice it but it's solid and well made. It is true to Marzen style (minus the sweet intrepretations seen of late) and supposedly they actually brew it in March. This is a beer where the question boils down to this: Is less MORE or is less a flaw? Simple vs. simplistic. Some consider it balanced, smooth, and a testimony to malty minimalism. Others find it a gear or two slow, too clean, direct without complexity, and far too uncomplicated and non-yummy for the price and style of presentation.

Weyerbacher Imperial Pumpkin Ale
RATING: 5.0
Easton, Pennsylvania
Not your average punkin' ale, this stuff glows like few others in bright but dark orange shade. Lace remains longer than you can bear to ignor downing it though I could never form a big head on it. First sip was revealing. Maybe that "imperial" thing is justified. First sip vaguely sweet malt and only a second or two later does some authentic pumpkin and very restrained spice come to the fore. It is well done - not overdone. Their website calls it "The mother of all Pumpkin Ales" and while most of such statements are overhyped spin wrapped in bologna and falsehood, they're quite justified in their confidence. The 8.0% ABV is a good starting point for proving it's superiority. The restrained spicing with cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamon, and cloves is very refined though their claim is "spicier" is not true from my survey of crude pumpkin stuff on sale in 2008. The caramel-spice one gets in mid notes ends a bit drier than I expected and so it's never tongue-clogging, cloying, or tastebud-drowning. As punkin' ales go this is a good standard and a very admirable product. I tried it again later in the year and that batch was spiced much more strongly but still earns the 5 Bottle Rating.

Wurzburger Octoberfest
RATING: 5.0
Germany
This treat comes in light orange and white packages resembling the colors of the Tennessee football team - a beacon to beer lovers to 'buy me now before I    am sold out this week'. Color is between dark and amber but flavor is closer    to German dark. It's a pleasant compromise between NEAR DARK and a sweet winter    beer. The finish is surprisingly short. Unlike most darks it is smooth enough    to enjoy with rich Octoberfest foods. Rewarding without being heavy.   

PORTER - REGULAR


Anchor Porter
RATING: 5.0
San Francisco, California
Unlike the Liberty Ale and Beer this Anchor product from San Francisco is not likely to be found in grocery stores. The full light brown head gives way to a nearly opaque blackish drink that is only slightly lighter than Mackeson XXX and Sheaf Stout. The main component of the rich full taste is more smoky than most stouts or porters. Samual Smiths Taddy Porter is crisper and more herbal but this rich smoky taste is done with equal refinement and detail.

Anderson Valley Deep Enders Dark Porter
RATING: 5.0
BREWBASE AWARD: Best Porter 1997.

For about $4 per 750ml bottle you are treated to a superb porter that is both chocolate in color and flavor. The creamy brown head is large and lasting. While rich and inviting it finishes more dry than expected - a virtue that makes it compatible with full meals. The secondary flavors are slightly herbal but less pronounced than most British porters in this database. It is less smoky than Anchor Porter. It is a delight that does not overburdon the taste.

Back Alley Sugardaddy Porter
RATING: 4.0
Colorado
Color is dark, opaque brown with a tan head. Flavor notes include coffee and roasted malts with a slight smoke finish. Hops are very much in the background. 

Bell's Porter
RATING: 4.0
Comstock, Michigan
Their labels are artful, sometimes minimalist, and this one is both and curious. Some dude in a brown suit is holding a giant stalk of wheat (barley perhaps) and a sprig of hops vine with the heads as big as melons in his scale. The ABV is 5.6%, nothing special there, color dark reddish-brown, head light brown and largish. Flavor is said to be "robust" but it has very little hops bitterness, no citrus tartness, and is in fact a very smooth, creamy stout in my opinion. Calling it "American Porter" as some do is worthless in my opinion. Why do we accept the American prefix, our righteous land's precious name, as a case for something being weak or "off style" or not what it's supposed to be!!!!?????!!!! I for one, will not be doing that bullshit. It is simply misnamed and yet I judge a beer on it's own "unclassified" merits. Some finish moments were off, most right on and warming in stoutish malts. It needs more work and their panel needs to put it against the industry standards of PORTER...get it right next time...please.

Big Rock Cold Cock Winter Porter
RATING: 4.0
Calgary Alberta, Canada
Be sure to get it right when telling your friends. It is NOT Big VC... We've loved many of these Calgary microbrews but this is no porter nor stout nor really a dark of any kind. It is bright red amber. 'Winter Amber' would have fit the flavor and color with more precision. The first flavor assault does have a rich malty theme some porters have but it so quickly becomes a very nice hop-drenched amber with a dry finish. Some of us suggested that it be evaluated not as a porter but as a Winter or Holiday brew. Even as such it proved a bit off focus when compared to works of Sierra Nevada, Anchor, Grant, and other masters. Perhaps we were just pissed at the $8.49 price and the complete lack of any description or holiday message. Try it anyhow.

Boss Browar BLACK BOSS Porter
RATING: 4.5
Poland
Here is a Baltic Style Porter in 9.4% ABV trim that is remarkable on many levels. It pours a shade less than opaque (surprising clear in fact), big tan head, toasty malt nose. Carbonation is limited. It is roasted well, moderate to full molasses, vaguely bitter in the finish after a few sips, favoring a semi-smoked flavor at times but not going fully to smoke for the intervening citrus and hops flavors. A little dark fruit (raisins in particular) and choco-vanilla extract comes to the buds here and there in the mid notes. It is smooth for the ABV and only improves as the bottle(s) get more empty. Okay, I had two over two days...well it seemed like two days...coulda been 10 hours. If you can love a beer more by the sip, you normally have the mark of a winner before you. I have seen some reviewers classify it as a hybrid of barley wine and stout but most of us westerners are far from experts on the variations in the Baltic Porter class. There are finer porters but few as interesting and different from the usual UK offering. Bossy Boss is a fine, informing experience and I will seek it again.

Boulder Planet Porter
RATING: 4.0
Boulder, Colorado
Colorado's first microbrewery makes this thick, blackish brew with a mottled tan head and light malty aroma. Flavor is nice malt, semi-rich but not too deep, smooth and yet not impressive. I wish it had a bit more hoppy depth in mid notes at least. "Easy porters" are easy to make and even easier to consume and the world has 312 of these the last time I checked. This porter is generic microbrew, decent, acceptable, and in the process not deserving much attention after the recycling truck leaves. It's competent like a Honda Civic and I desire to rent much more for the weekend...

Brewery Hill Caramel Porter
RATING: 4.5
Wilkes-Barre, Pennsylvania
This nicely named brew comes from caramel and chocolate malts with East Goldings hops for that true British style. It dark reddish-brown with a big brown head. Flavor is sweet and malty but with enough hops to round it out fairly well. Still most reviewers felt the $6.99 product was not as fine as some other American-made porters for depth and complexity. It will not offend we are sure but neither is it very memorable. Reviewers noted 'smooth, rich, sugary, malty nice aroma...goes down easier than many of this style.'. A few folks felt it was oversweetened but at least the name should drive off any who dislike that form of porter.

Carnegie Stark-Porter 
RATING: 4.5
Sundsvall
From D. Carnegie and Co. (AB PRIPPS BRYGGERIER) comes this year dated porter in 8.82 ounce bottles - we paid $1.99 each. It is dark reddish-brown with a lingering tan head and rich malt nose. It is dryish and somewhat to the thinner side of Guiness Extra Stout. It is certainly very satisfying from its many coffee notes to the cleanish finish. It is quite difficult to find in most areas (we believe) and in fact this is the first published review we've found of it yet. Reviewers noted 'satisfying as the style should be but never overwhelming and raw...highest grade' and 'lacking a bit in a sophisticated finish but easily one of the more smooth dark brews I've had in some time.'

Catamount Porter
RATING: 4.0
Vermont
This product of Vermont has a mountain lion (hence cat-a-mount) on the label and a very dark porter taste. It has been highly rated but failed to delivery in it recent form. As strong malted flavors go it is pleasant but it lacks true complexity of the truly great porters.

Chicago's Big Shoulders Porter u rlp 4.0 476 Chicago IL Chicago Brewing Co. describes the goal as 'brilliancy of color and richness of flavor' in a English tradition. Color is rootbeer red-brown with a beige head of strong duration. So far. So good. First sip is very thick and with chocolate roasted malt detail. Sadly the finish unravels a bit into less depth and some curious flavor that is hard to place. Perhaps it is just a bit too tart and not smooth enough. We've just filled our expanding bellies with much Perfect Porter from Grant. With those high standards these Big Shoulders are a bit too narrow. It is certainly more pleasant than most German or US mass-market darks and is a good value. As Porter is a just good.

Crested Butte Espresso Porter
RATING: 4.0
Colorado
Color is very dark, blackish-brown with flavor elements with roasted coffee notes. The finish shows more of the mild hopping. Opinions on this one vary.

Crooked River Cool Mule Porter
RATING: 3.5
Ohio
Reviewers note a very unique and not always pleasant style here that combines roasted malt, chocolate, and a whole range of other flavors. The lack of a strong malt character and some odd notes resulted in some lower ratings.

Dergy's Porter
RATING: 4.0
Wilmington NC
Wilmington Brewing Company of NC produce a series of ales (golden, amber, and porter) in small batches. Color is very dark (nearly opaque) brown with a tan head of some duration. A malty aroma is evident and the first palate is roasted and malty. The finish is surprisingly dry for a porter. We might put this in the group of the so-called MILD PORTERS which are clearly dark beers but are not as rich as the majority. This beer is very satisfying but one is not overdrenched with a heavy finish, making this porter more suit- able for meal time. There are none of the superb chocolate and carmel notes one finds in a Grant's Perfect Porter or Sierra Nevada Porter but this style does have merit. Well worth a try.

Devil Mountain Black Honey Ale
RATING: 4.5
"Cinti. OH"/is this Cinncinati OH?
Chocolate and black malts together with 'exotic African black honey' are used to make this very dark ale. It is opaque brown with reddish highlights and last- ing tan head. For our purposes a classification as SWEET PORTER seems in order. It is supremely malty and rich from first sniff to the last sip. Only at mid palate did we find anything of a let down on flavor. While a very cheerful and sweet drink it did not have the complex flavor of some of the better porters and stouts. It is close mind you. A few reviewers thought the honey was overdone but others felt it was perfect. Reviewers noted 'simply overflowing with dark flavors and color...an ideal after dinner dessert drink' and 'potent malt temp- ered by a quality honey taste...a candy sweet treat'.

The Duck-Rabbit Porter
RATING: 4.0
Farmville, North Carolina
This fine product pours dark yet translucent brown with a light brown head of moderate length. Choco malts were used as well as oats for what they call "subtle round silkiness to the mouthfeel". It is tart enough to be recognizable in this style but I found it a shade too simple compared to others in this category. It is well made but still average for a American craft brewery.

Fish Tale Ales Mudshark Porter
RATING: 4.0
Washington
Color is opaque dark brown with a good full head. Flavors include moderate to full roasted malts and a very clear smoky theme. Hops are light but can be spicy in the finish after having a few.


Flag Porter
RATING: 3.0
Wisbech
Made for Woodstock Beer of Vermont this product from Elgood of Wisbech UK uses an original 1825 yeast 'salvaged from a sunken vessel in the English Channel'. The recipe dates to 1850. This is one of the palest porters we know with a color like a mass-market dark beer. The head lasts well but it similarly light. It has that British molasses flavor like Old Peculiar or a Scotch Ale but unfortunately tastes like it's watered down by half. While this is clearly a dark beer in flavor and color it is not a porter by either UK or US standards. And when paying $5.00 for a 22 ounce bottle you might expect a bit more. Even judged as a mainstream dark the dry tame finish places it with only mediocre brands. Stick with a true dark ale or porter.

Flying Dog Gonzo Imperial Porter
RATING: 5.0
Frederick, Maryland
This Canis Major offering is a whopping 9.2% ABV (shocking for an American 12-ouncer) and has a label I cannot quite describe. It is unforgettable to be sue. Let's try. Picture a slightly deformed white dude with oversized arms and too much chest hair with an 18 inch long neck that ends in a giant skull with four rows of teeth and capped off with the an undersized cowboy hat. This stuff won the 2008 World Beer Cup for American Style Imperial Stout so once again we have that stout:porter definition thing going on here. After two sips I'd call it a porter for while it ends very warm and stouty, it has a ale-like sharpness and clean allure that makes that style a good deal more refreshing than stout-soothing. Countless hybrids can and do exist so call it that if that helps keep your universe in scope and symmetry. If it were a real stout it would be a Bitter Stout or more precisely a Citrus-Bitter Stout. The head is very dark brown for any beer style, enduring long. The world "gonzo" tells us this is intended to be unconventional and perhaps wierd. The "imperial" says it is strong and worthy of a King. In fact it is fairly conventional on all the flavor notes and it is surely fit for a King. Gonzo Imperial Porter is immensely enjoyable, never harsh or hard at any point, sprightly, and chock full of likable, yummy flavors.

Frontwaters Port Clinton Porter
RATING: 4.0
OH
Color is dark reddish-brown with a full cream head. Flavors include moderate to full roasted malt with a distinctly smoky finish and very like crisp hopping with good dryness.


Full Sail Imperial Porter
RATING: 5.0
Hood River, Oregon
Color is dark brown and flavor is turbo-charged as the Imperial adjective usually implies. Indeed it is almost stout rich. A full dose of hops counterbalances the rich roasted and coffee malt appeal. It is already earning a name as one of America's finer porters and the strength is certainly 'full sail' in any beer lover's book. Sadly it is not widely available in the East.

Fuller's London Porter
RATING: 5.0
This well known British porter emphasizes chocolate and carmel malt flavors with just a bit of bitter hops to complete it's wonderful formula. This porter has the kind of balance and refinement that could serve most of the others in the section with some good advice. This one gets our very highest rating in the style. 'Out of this world delicious' and 'they pretty much have this style nailed' said two friends of mine I trust to the last bubble.


Grant's Perfect Porter
RATING: 5.0
Yakima, Washington
It's dangerous to anything perfect unless you are Ralph Lauren or Bert Grant. Under the name Yakima Brewing and Malting Company, the master Bert Grant has created another masterpiece and future classic. Even Lexus or Mercedes would not introduce a car called the 'Perfect Coupe'. Introducing a 'Perfect Porter' takes far more courage as dark beer appreciation is so subjection. This VERY opaque brew has a dark brown head. The package describes the quality in detail - roasted, carmelized, and hi-dried malts with dry hopped late English varieties. These with oak aging and special mashing provide the best drink ever with a chocolate-like flavor. This is no chocolate-flavored liquor. It is deep and complex and mysterious.

Great Divide Saint Bridget's Porter (Robust Porter)
RATING: 4.0
Denver, Colorado
Using the name of the patron Saint of Ireland, This well-loved Denver brewery makes a vaguely translucent, very dark reddish-brown porter with a medium-long tan head. It has wonderful coffee and chocolate notes, a fine balance, and enough hops bitterness in the finish to thrill. It is not a sweet porter yet it is smooth enough. The tartness is about right but I would never call it truly robust.

Great Lakes Edmund Fitzgerald Porter
RATING: 4.5
Cleveland, Ohio
Drink enough of this and you'll start singing the famous song about the famous ship - that is, if anyone can recall the right words. This very dark brown porter is full tonnage with chocolate, coffee, and roasted malts in ample supply. The hopping is sufficient to come through and provides a true measure of added quality. When fresh the carbonation is rather stiff and that promotes a more satisfying presentation. This certainly ranks among the great or near-great American porters and should not be missed.

Haandt Bryggeriet Norse Porter
Rating: 4.5
Norway
This Norse porter is 6.5% alc. by volume but has a punch from other sources. It is fairly acidic and has a depth of cherry in the finish. It is made only from the Big Four ingredients. Malt is moderate and far stronger than hops at the start. It is too tart for my taste though I do acknowledge the value in the more tart style of porter.

Highland Big Butte Smoked Porter
RATING: 4.5
Asheville, North Carolina
Winner of the brewery's Highland Cup 2009, Alex Buerckholtz's winner recipe comes with earth Fuggles hops and smoked German malts. It is only sold in NC. They recommend it be cellared for improvement so it might just turn up anywhere. The smoked flavor is moderate to full, not quite Rauschbier potency but sometimes close. Color and head are typical porter. ABV is 7% so it's very sippable without cringing - not much worse than a porter with too much exposed ethanol and enough smoke to choke a Dalmatian. This one is balanced and fun and better than the regular oatmeal version of porter. I tried it chilled a bit and also much warmer and never found it as thrilling as it might be with more diverse malty dimensions.

Highland Oatmeal Porter
RATING: 4.0
Asheville, North Carolina
Highland Brewing Asheville NC makes a nice Celtic Ale and this porter like it did not measure to worldclass standards for the style. Still the brew was very pleasant and has potential to be stunning. Color is nearly opaque and under bright illumination shows some red color. It is a very fine dark but not 'robust' in our idea of a porter. Being an Oatmeal Porter is it rather sweet and some remarkable fruit-filled notes are apparent. There is no big malt punch but though malt flavors are evident as one tastes it at various temperatures. Our $3.50 750ml bottle was a decent value for a dark beer. In a porter we hope for more complexity at all temps. If they can keep the sweet fruitiness and turn up the depth two notches it will be a winner.

Hoppin' Frog Silk Porter
Rating: 4.5
Akron, Ohio
The 22 oz. bottles are under $8 (March 2010) and the ABV shines moderately at 6.2%. Color and head are stereotypical, the nose a bit dryer and weak than some. The first flavor notes are more robust, roasted and toasted to full degree, the final smooth as silk as advertised. It is quite dry, a faint nip from hops - as there is little extra ethanol to bite back. As for complexity, that is sacrified somewhat for the overall smoothness. I found no off or shallow flavor passages but some have. One reviewer said "it was perfect but the finish trails off into a dry desert with interesting qualities" and another "competent but in some ways too micro-generic for me". People seems to find chocolate but I found far little than in some other labels. Coffee is stronger for me. It might be tricked up a bit with some aging and more ethanol.

King and Barnes Old Porter (Strong Dark Ale)
RATING: 4.5
Horsham, Sussex, England
This bottle-conditioned porter has good sediment and a dark brown color. The head is beige and endures a long while. It has a hops nip and malt overdose but is not overly rich like a few porters from England. It reminds one of Old Peculiar for all its molasses-malt zip and charm. Yet the finish has some awkward moments one can identify but finds difficult to pin down into coherant words. (Like the ugly sentence you just read). It is certainly a nice rich real ale but there are just a couple of finer ones we'll bring home instead. We played around with the yeast-pouring strat- egies, serving temperature, etc. and nothing improved it too much. It is what it is and that is rather good.

Laboratory Coal Porter
RATING: 3.0
Texas
This should not be confused with SLO's Cole Porter. Color is rich blackish brown which a rich brownish head. It is disappointly weak on the malts with the hops doing most of the work here. It might actually be considered a LIGHT PORTER if such a thing could or should exist - and most of us think it shouldn't - though others advise that a Black and Tan is much the same concept. Overall it is hard to find a solid recommendation here.

Lonerider Deadeye Jack
RATING: 4.5
Raleigh, North Carolina
This 6.0% ABV porter presents in traditional colors, aromas, and mojo. It is perhaps more chocolate in the aromatics than most. I tend to hold my stouts and porters up to some big wattage and this one stays opaque but just a bit of amber glow on the edges. There are some tall ingredients here but the finish is semi-dry and smooth. Their goal was strong malt, good roasted chocolate, subtle sweetness, and low hop bitterness. For a first year brewery or really any other this is a very refined product and one I truly enjoy - and I am usually very hard on my home town breweries for they never get a pass, special or otherwise from me. All the progressing notes of flavor are just right and I rather favor chocolate malts in this style. I would prefer a little more ABV and background complexity for this price range - almost $11.00 per bottled six.

Marston's Albion Porter
RATING: 4.0
Burton on Trent, England
The reddish-brown color of this Marston, Thompson, and Evershed beer is much paler than typical for the style. The head is creamy-tan and enduring. As with their Oyster Stout one is treated to a good dosing of hops that so many other stouts and porters do not bring to the forefront. In may be the least malt- dominated porter we can think of. It is very much like a ale-porter blend; the fun thing some of us do to customize an ale with just the right amount of hops and malt for personal taste. Given the weakness of their Pedigree Bitter Ale (by most opinions we requested) this might be considered the best 'real ale' they have bottled for the US. True porter snobs are prone to dislike it by any name. Taken 'as is' without class it's a comfortable, dry, balanced ale.

Meantime Coffee Porter
RATING: 3.5
London, England
First of all, this is one of the best looking bottles I've seen in over 1400 bottled beer tastings over the last 30 years. Pretty is tiny here and that 11.2 approach is still offensive. The wide-based, Champagne-like bottle has a low-slung label with high graphics values that include subtle back-wording, foiling, font differentials, and centered elegant allignment. The 6.0% ABV fluid is nearly opaque reddish-brown, a rocky head in light tan, and a fair malty sniff. There is much stronger porters and frankly I'm not a fan of porters which are essentially over-malted, acidic stouts - which this is not. This stuff is drier than a Bob Newhart Marathon playing on a Range Rover DVD in the middle of the Sahara Desert. There's a curious straight-forwardness here that is not a lightness nor a weakness. It is a uniqueness. Coffee is expressed though not overtly or strongly. It would have been easy to make an espresso porter and ruin the beer world with a crude hybrid. I love rich coffee liquor copiously dumped into my ice cream but not in my beer. The approach here is more restrained but I think too  reservedly so in that way some British things are two notches too conservative for American tastes. Those "water biscuits" (cookies) with no flavor and nearly no sugar - you get the point. Here's a water biscuit of the porter world, a porter but no enough coffee to be meaningful and not enough anything else to make the pretty, mini-bottles a worthy purchase. The ABV is higher than expected and it's a stealthy thing in that respect. Their IPA is so highly rated, I think this covert label suffers by comparison. Regrettably I found the unique approach here to fumble into odd metallic moments in the longest bits of the finish. Smooth goes a tad wrong if you will. It earned the 2006 World Beer Cup Gold Medal but was that based on a bottled item? Not impressed but it's unique enough to try just once.

Meantime London Porter
RATING: 5.0
London, England
Once again we get the full British treatment with ornate graphics, shiny medals, crests, and such. Very elegant and classy stuff but can they deliver? They are a mixed bag in the beer-reviewing community, best marks for ales perhaps and porters no so much. They note George Washington was a big fan of imported British porters; among other rare treats dark and sassy. It pours dark brownish-amber, hardly the stout-like color of many porters, the head beige and long-lasting. Still for the lack of color and other cues, it pleases well with complex malts in quality and quanity; both. It is not overly or overtly tart as some porters and yet has some deep comforts of a stout while retaining the sharpness and zip of this style. I am told it is very faithful to the style in London and it surely competes well with other respected UK offerings. Fuller's and Sam Smith's are good comparisons (real standards in fact) and this one stands up very well to both. Fuggles hops blend with black and choco malts for true excellence here. I am sometimes curious and checked the purely statistically section of the Beer Advocate where where either skill or mob-rule tends to dominate. Smith's, Fuller's, and Meantime all average A- in hundreds of reports as of February 2009. There are no higher rated porters to date. It should also be noted that this label is 6.5% ABV compared to 5.0 and 5.4 for the others.

New Knoxville Porter
RATING: 4.0
Knoxville, Tennessee
This London style porter harkens back to the brewery's efforts back in the 1890's. Described as 'deep ruby' it is actually a bit more amber brown unless you use unnatural incandescent bulbs. The head is large, light tan, and persistant. It is moderately malty with 'a hint of chocolate' and what is accurately described as a bittersweet finish. It is certainly an effective compromise for smoothness though some reviewers decidely preferred a stronger product. Respectable but not exceptional.


Nor'Wester Blacksmith Porter
RATING: 5.0
Portland OR
BREWBASE AWARD: BEST EASY DRINKING PORTER

The label advertises it as a PORTER that 'doesn't bite'. Color is barely translucent reddish-brown with a light brown head of good duration. Malt and chocolate aromas are clean. While some porters are dry-bitter and do in fact 'bite' this one is semi-sweet with a wonderfully smooth finish. The smoothness of finish is as NO cost to the flavor. As an easy drinking porter there are few better. Now if you want a super chocolate porter this is NOT it. Chocolate is there but only on medium strength. Try this with a DRY IRISH STOUT like a Guiness and you'll easily see how the two styles were once very distant. Review- ers noted 'wonderful balance between full malt depth and a clean finish' and 'Still more proof that Americas now make the world's best porters'.

Okocim Porter
RATING: 4.5
Poland
Okocim has made beer since 1845. I clicked the English flag at www.okocimmocne.pl/ and got a banner that said "Welcome to Strong Website of Okocim Beer". I think they meant "Strong Okocim Beer". Then I got some strange little movies with clues about the beer and strange chirps and clicks that annoyed my cat. The label proclaims "Traditional Polish Taste" and mentions a 2005 First Place in the Orlando Beer Festival - how's that for comfirmation of 19th century Polish values! It's reddish-brown, medium opaque so a bit of light shines through, the head massive and tan. It is 8.3% ABV but you don't sense that immediately. Sniffing one a sweet malty feel and tasting a positively stout theme, drenched in warm malts. Are the critics right and the market has merged stout and porter for real - or do some of us not note the subtle differences? I note many differences in the real things but this has no tartness, fizziness, and no caramel density to linger over. Upon further review I am told these Polish porters tend to be bottom-fermented, lagers and made differently than their UK ale-based counterparts. I found an article on the web comparing this label to Guiness Stout, suggesting I am not losing my mind as much as some people around here think. I did more digging and found that baltic porters are cousins to imperial stouts and always have been, often very hard to tell apart. I'm about 1500 beer labels into this hobby and should have learned something (even if by dumb numb osmosis) I hope. The name throws us off (until now) but I judge beer for what it is and not what it's called. This is a warming, rich product, very sophisticated, and inviting. Well made.

Old Growler Special Porter
RATING: 5.0
Suffolk, England
What is this obsession with nasty dogs or wolves on beer labels? In this case the bulldog is the British national pup and they can be forgiven. The Nethergate Brewery of Suffolk now sends out these 500ml bottles of porter that are a $3.00 bargain. The color is a dark amber brown (clearer than many thick brothy kinds) and the carbonation is stronger than most. The head is less brown and foamy than typical of style. Expecting a decent dark the flavor just bite us. It's rather malty with molasses and smoke notes as Old Peculiar and some Scotch ales. Given our recent affection for Grant's chocolate-drunk Perfect Porter and Sierra Nevada Porter this one startled us. It earned a full 5 rating using a dark molasses seduction that requires total surrender.


Old Raleigh Smoked Porter
RATING: 4.5
Raleigh, North Carolina
One sniff of this very dark brown beer and you know you have a unique dark beer. The head is tan and long lasting. It is truly blessed with smoked malts but having enough carmel sweetness to tempt. SMOKED BEERS are known as Rauchbiers and in that class the German Schlenkerla is our perfect standard. Rogue's Smoked beer was also good but rated a 4.0. This product is much darker and maltier than either and proved refined. Smoke flavor is easy to over-emphasize but we like the limits they chose here. A few reviewers felt it was best if blended 2/3 to a sweeter porter or stout for smoother drinking in quantity. Smoked beers are per- haps best presented like a port wine; served in small glasses after a meal when other flavors will not be conquered. This beer has dessert beer quality. Sadly this fine brew is no longer made...

Redhook Blackhook Porter
RATING: 4.5
Seattle, Washington
From Redhook Brewery this fine is smooth and rich in its deep brown color. It has a roasted to smoky taste but is not as heavy as some other porters. The lingering taste is on the smooth and dry side - some enthusiasts like a porter with more lingering zing. Since 1981 it has been brewed in Seattle. It has made it to Eastern US supermarkets so it should be readily available in many states.


Rogue's Mocha Porter
RATING: 4.0
Newport, Oregon
Oregon Brewing Co. or Newport Oregon produces this stunning opaque porter with one of the darkest heads we've ever seen. Although it is 'for the choc- olate lover in each of us' there are some Porters with more chocolate appeal. This one is on the semi-sweet side and uses Perle and Centennial hops plus Harrington Kleges, Munich, Chocolate, Carastan, and 3 Crystal malts. That is a fine combo but we're still in favor of Grant's Perfect Porter keeping our 5 bottle standard. It is quite satisfying and complex yet the 'bitter- sweet balance of malt and hops' leaves room for improvement. Their phrase of 'light and refreshing' is perhaps correct since we've come to judge a porter as potent and unrelenting in flavor. Definately worth a try.

Samuel Adams Honey Porter
RATING: 4.0
Boston, Mass.
We first tried this in spring 1994 and found it not quite up to 4.5 and 5.0 bottle ratings of their main line. Under strong light it shines dark cherry coke red under a full foamy head. It is was not nearly as sweet as the name implies and in fact it has a bit of a bite. Malted components are nicely blended but yet it lacks the full satisfying nature of a porter found elsewhere. Tried at 3 temps it remained just shy of full joy. Sam and Co. have traded quality and depth for sweetness but then that is not unexpected anything with "honey" or "caramel" in the name. It's a lighter porter (but not very thin) which is more drinkable for the sweetness, dosed up with their usual genius dose of roasted and chocolate malts. Porters tends to be less sweet than many stouts in general and this one bends the porter away from tartness to another place. Creating wormholes that fuse one style beer into another is risky and this time it works...sort of. One expert old me that sweet beers often have a traditional function of being holiday beers that appeal to the entire range of family drinkers. Good point. Maybe we can take the malt and the sugar for one or two days a year. The cream head is impeccable.


Samuel Smiths Taddy Porter
RATING: 5.0
Tadcaster, N. Yorkshire, England
This very opaque porter resembles Mackeson XXX in color but is actually much crisper and thinner like a dark herbal tea. It is pungent and transitionally bitter but the lingering taste is smooth and deep. It is heavenly with endless complexity but never brothy like many dark labels. The clear square-shouldered bottle with a tall ornate label resembles the trim of a silky worldclass Scotch. This is a true classic and it will be enjoyed. Reviewers noted "largely a SWEET PORTER but ends a bit drier...satisfying from beginning to end" and "I enjoyed it more than their Oatmeal". You cannot find any real flaws in this one. It's a true classic and worthy standard to use for judging SWEET PORTERS.

Saranac Caramel Porter
Rating: 3.5
Saranac, NY and elsewhere
I think the Saranac family of brews are among the best values in the beer world if one uses the "Quality Flavor / Price" method of determining value. That said, they have both hits and misses, budgets in mind or not. This one is sweet and full of carmel, lacking hops that a rounded porter will have, and quite simply overwhelms with sugary malt appeal. Notes of pine, butterscotch, faint smoke, and decently roasted malt come up. There are "soda beers" and in the dark realm this is one of them. Two of our reviewers called it "very drinkable" and that translates to mean a simple, very straight forward appeal. Girls will like it. (Apologies to those 22 ladies worldwide who really know and love beer). It was too thin for most devotees of the original European style but therein lies some of Saranacs genius. They do a range of beers, some pleasing the insane hop-ophile and others being simple and more approachable. Most of us think it needs a sugar reduction program but then would the Caramel name need to go away? Should the world even have a carmel porter from anyone?




Shepherd Neame Original Porter
RATING: 4.5
Faversham, Kent, England
Britain's oldest breweries (nearly 300 nears old - 1698) make this porter of surprising light red translucent color. The head is mid-sized, rocky, and of beige foam. While the less than opaque or brown color led us to anticipate moderate flavor, it hits the tastebuds with 'overflowing malt passion' and 'potency not unlike a DARK SCOTCH ALE'. It really does have that Scotch ale and molasses-like nip although it is never very sweet. Yet it is much sweeter than a good UK Stout such as Guiness or Murphy's Irish. Some panalists here felt the finish while dry could have added a bit more refinement. The first and mid palate 'flavours' had no faults. While we felt some of their products were lacking this one will not disappoint and is highly recommended.

Sierra Nevada Porter
RATING: 5.0
Chico, California
This Chico CA product in blue label is equally as impressive as it's green label Pale Ale cousin. Using hops and yeast of 'Old World' type this is currently our best dark beer of US origin. While more herbal than heavy it is endlessly complex and refined. It is as good as any European dark we know. It is clearly related in taste to Pale Ale. It can be bitter when warm so serve it when quite cold. SNP has one of the longest lasting heads we have seen. One of the most available porters in the US in terms of numbers of stores, the SN Porter never fails to get it done for me.

SKA Nefarious Imperial Porter
Rating: 4.5
Durango, Colorado
This is 8% alc. by volume porter is best served a tad cold in my opinion, having tried both approaches. It is abundantly tart, drenched more in malt at the start but the hops finish comes to bear in seconds. One instantly recognizes this product for it's blue wax coated upper third, a process no doubt done by hand and adding something to the cost of production. It's decent, interesting, but not great. If you want a sharp, less potent porter on a hot day - try this one from the fridge. Yes, really.

SLO Brewing Cole Porter
RATING: 5.0
San Luis Obispo, California
BREWBASE AWARD: Best Porter 1998

San Luis Obispo is abbreviated SLO and so they formed a clever name on the concept that slow-brewing makes better beer. Then they added the Cole to the us- usual Porter to be extra funny. Fortunately this is not a gimmicky beer but with its opaque dark brown nature and tan head it conveys rich flavor. As port- ers go this is surely on the more chocolate-coffee side of things. It is mostly dry though never a bad bitter. Reviewers remarked 'easily as good as anything from Anderson Valley, Rogue, or Sierra Nevada...sumptuous delight' and 'truly full-bodied but never harsh...smooth...great sipping beer for late at night with a favorite book'. No one really had anything clearcut to say against it; even the porter-freaks among us. It is truly one of the top US porters.

Spanish Peaks Porter
RATING: 4.5
Montana
This porter immediately drenches you in coffee and roasted malt flavors. There are subtle herbal hoppings to round it out and give it a very intense, full effect. A few reported that some bitterness put them off when it came to a rating.

Thirsty Dog Old Legthumper Robust Porter
RATING: 4.5
Akron, Ohio
"So many legs....so little time" proclaims the pooch before three chicks in short mini-dresses. Lots of guys  will buy this only for the conversation opportunities alone - one among other dudes and clearly one among those of the female persuasion. Curiously, the central girl is wearing white high heels on the package but they're bright red on the bottle label. Roasted and chocolate malts are used to make this a dark amber-brownish brew with a mid-length head in beige. It won the 2002 Gold and 2000 Bronze in the World Beer Cup. It is robust enough for me but then again I like my porters more like malty, strong ales than dry, creamy stouts. This 6.5% ABV formula is 24 IBU and best when warmed a bit. It thrills and tantilizes more than it comforts, again being more true porter than porteroid-stout. Chocolate notes are abundant and nicely developed, it is never very sweet but neither does the bitterness of the hops dry it much. The balance is solid, favoring dryness. Should like your dark ales and porters a bit cold, this is one that handles that well enough.

Tomcat Panther Paw Porter
RATING 4.5
Raleigh, North Carolina
The name and snarling dark beast on the lovely photo label suggests a ready market for Carolina Panthers fans. This firm is no more but this label was offered circa 2000. Actually any dark beer lover is going to want to get a pawful of this opaque treat. The label proclaims 'one of the best examples of the classic style on this or any other planet. Any questions? I think not'. Arrogant perhaps but 3 out of 4 times Thom Tomlinson has made good on the words. Color is nearly opaque with just the slightest ruby glow under strong light. The head is big and tan. It is immediately notable for a molasses-carmel flavor but it not overly sweet. Some reviewers thought it tart and medicinal and would like a more malty broth; though perhaps they really want a stout. Most of us were thrilled and felt it true to the style.

Usher's Dark Horse Porter
RATING: 4.5
Trowbridge, Wiltshire

Since 1890 (Wiltshire's oldest brewery) they have bottled fine brews at Ushers of Trowbridge. Their exclusive 330ml bottle originated in the 1940's and the modern bottle is a distinctive thing with a square shoulder and narrow neck. (To one reviewer it looked all too much like Chevron's Fuel Injector Cleaner). We paid $11.99 in our first taste test which put it above almost lal other UK porters in price. Color is dark opaque brown with a light brown head. Flavor is drenched in chocolate malt and more like some SWEET STOUTS overall. It is thoroughly satisfying and worth ever extra dime though many American stouts and porters are surely its equal. It was perfect for many folks but there were enough minor comments about depth to keep it from our highest rating.

Utenos Porter
RATING: 4.5
Lithuania
Not sure I had a Lithuanian beer before but all the geopolitics is hard to keep track of. Pilsener beer originated in...there's twelve answers, three of theme correct, and the rest subject to historical reanalysis and such. This 500ml big brown bottle has a showy gold, shield-shaped label and a very different flesh-colored and black cap. The small print is hard to read. There's the word "indulgence" somewhere. It pours dark brownish-amber, cloudy in fact, and clearly not my English's ancestors idea of a porter color. ABV is 6.8%. It tastes sweet malt, almost a doppelbock with some tartness in fact. I knew almost instantly not to judge it by UK stands for this is a true Baltic Porter ; which transmutates the word porter into something very different than most Americans know. They date older than our country (not by much) and are essentially a stronger, smoky, bitter, higher ethanol version of a dark brown ale used for importing over long distances. This version at just 6.8% is weak for most of them are 7-10%. This one is sweeter than I'd expect for this style. I found it to be a caramel-raisin brother of nice quality, very likely too sugared up for most tastes in this respect not true to Baltic style. As "true to type" it would rate a 3.0 but on it's own merits (and this has always been my approach) it's considerably more interesting and virtuous. I am a sucker for a rich, complex, sweet malt beer that transcends easy brewing techniques and also gives us noble candy delights. Here's a very fun beer, not a porter by ANYONE'S DEFINITION, and I like it just as it is behind that glowing gold shield.

Victory Baltic Thunder Porter
RATING: 4.5
Downingtown, Pennsylvania
As much as I admire the art behind the superb brewing of beer, here is a good opportunity to applaud the art that goes into beer labels. The label in grey, silver, and red stands out in a crowed store cooler and like dozens of other American microbrews shows that graphic arts do much to get our attention and our money in the final analysis. There are many 5.0 brews here with common, ugly-trendy, and even lousy labels. Some of them I avoided until trying to try everything. They simply put me off or did not catch my eye. Victory here has a fine, fun, and nicely crafted product - liquid and paper alike.

As "Truly a worldly beer" the Baltic Thunder is designed to give us the "enticing, toffee roast" of 18th century British porters merged with today's "subtle fruit nuance". It also celebrates baltic dark lagers or so we are told. Having not lived in the 18th century and sampled British porters and never been to the baltics, I'll take their word at this point. When did beer label text get so preachy and wine-like? I'd jack them up but good if the stuff in their bottle was not so impressive and stands up so well to the fancy language. Ball-ticks (I would have said if they failed)! So many porters today might as well be "drinkable" stouts or smooth cream stouts. This one has nice tartness and you actually enjoy a bit of good hopping in every sip. It is tangy, satisfying, and very lovely in an glass or crystal. It has zing with a bit of "comfort", overall a real elegance, and clearly the product of caring to be good, very good.

Wellington Iron Duke Porter
RATING: 5.0
Guelph ON
BREWBASE AWARD: BEST CANADIAN PORTER 1997

This Ontario product is translucent brown with a big tan head and a wonderful scent of sweet malt. It is indeed what one might call a CARMEL PORTER - richly sweet, malty, and aromatic. It is too sweet for some people's idea of a porter but it a fine choice for wooing someone to 'real beer'. Black, choc- olate, roasted, and crystal malts are all used to good effect. It is truly a remarkable 'inspiration' - matching the label hype for once. We paid as low as $2.69 a pint bottle making it a superb value. It contains no adjuncts and no preservatives. It is also the first label we've seen to have BOTH the web URL and e-mail addresses. (We're still waiting for a Java applet that lets one actually taste the stuff). Of the highest standards. Top recommendation.


Wild Goose Porter
RATING: 4.0
Cambridge MD
From Cambridge Maryland comes this porter which is surprisingly translucent in reddish-brown shades. The head is small but enduring. Excellent lace. This is a very MALTY PORTER with less chocolate than Grant's Perfect Porter but still with nice depth of character. It COULD be perfect with a little fine tuning; but then we say that often. The finish is a little too bitter and uninteresting but the first malt-encrusted punch is worth the low $6 ticket. If we had to pick an ECONOMY PORTER this wouldbe it. It is certainly more pleasant than many pricey German darks and mixes well. As a lower cost blending beer it works as well as Guiness Stout.


Williamsville Border Porter
RATING: 4.5
Fernandina Beach FL
The label says this one is 'as complex as it is simple'. That had even our fully sober heads puzzled. Color is the darkest of light-banning shades of brown with a light tan head of usual size for the style. English hops and chocolate malt are the only things they'll confess to using. It is (as the color foretells) a very full porter but it is not overwhelming either. It is very smooth with a semi-sweet appeal many stouts lack. While a bit tart it is not offending in that way. The chocolate coffee flavor really comes out in a way that can be enjoyed with shivering or holding back. It could be consumed in some quantity with ease but still would not disappoint the lover of rich dark beers. Not perfect but very close.

Yellow Rose Vigilante Porter
RATING: 3.5
Texas
This light brown porter is less strong than many (that is putting it kindly perhaps). There are some herbal-medicinal flavors that either please or annoy you together with the malt and hops. While there is plenty of room for porters that are not as heavy and rich as stouts this one is quite tame. It will please some of you - but we feel sure that most beer lovers will move elsewhere.

Young's Porter
4.0

This recipe was compiled from old brewing records dated in the 1800's that include top fermentation, East Kent Golding hops, and dark roasted malt. I t is clear dark reddish amber (unlike Smith and Anchor porters) with a s emi-persistant creamy head. It overflows with wonderful molasses tastes and p roves sweeter than most stouts or porters. It finishes with a delightful s moothness. It is a good choice to turn someone on to truly flavorful beer.

PORTER - FLAVORED

Breckenridge Vanilla Porter
Rating: 4.0
Breckenridge, CO
One thinks of chocolate malt when one thinks of porter (at times) so vanilla is a bit of a curious marketing approach. This one is on the light side of porters for that vanilla-toasted aroma to come out. It's smooth enough, sweetish, and fairly complex. It was too sweet for some so perhaps it might have been a brown or stout in a better incarnation. Faint coffee and spice adds to the mix. The vanilla was overdone for a couple of our panel of tasters but not doubt we'd have gotten complaints if it was a barely discernable note! The concept is good but needs just a slight toning down we think, overall. The lack of a large head is one fault often reported. Someone remarked it was a new style, that is, a "Porter-flavored Vanilla Beer". It is a "try it once" beer for most of us - in other words, "try it once...unless oneone gives you one or two or twelve for free". It's definately a "buy once label".

Oregon Blackberry Porter
RATING: 5.0
Portland OR
BREWBASE AWARD: BEST DARK FRUIT-FLAVORED BEER 1996

This brew takes a very dark opaque porter with a medium brown head and gives it a natural blackberry flavor. That is not easy and in fact other FRUIT PORTERS we've tried left something to be desired. This one fortunately succeeds very nicely. There is a fully deep malty dark satisfaction but a very decent tarkness and fruit theme is added. The combination is very effective and we must say it is the best dark fruit-flavored beer tested here to date. Reviewers noted 'nice sweet-tart treat with quality through and through' and 'my idea of a fruit flavored beer...I'd prefer it to most lambics for complexity anytime.'

Pete's Wicker Maple Porter
RATING: 4.5
St. Paul MN
We believe this is the first dark beer we've reviewed from the Wicked folks. It is a winner. Color is dark reddish-brown (far redder than any other porter we know) with a lasting tan head of good size. It is colored with carmel and flavored with maple. It is a sweet, smooth sort of PORTER rather than the thick, brothy sort that borders on a stout. The only other porter we know with a sim- ilar maple-molasses-carmel zip is Shepherd Neame - doubtless their are many others of UK origin. That flavor usually costs a bundle in Old World form so this decent $5.99 American sixpack is most welcome. One reviewer noted the 'im- mediate likeability...smooth yet substantial.' Some felt is was too close to the soda-"liquid candy" sort of brewing and objected. Unique for a US brewer.


Sea Dog Riverdriver Hazelnut Porter
RATING: 4.5
Banger, Maine
Four types of malted barley, Williamette hops, and real hazelnut are utilized to create a dark brown brew that is close to opaque. The head is deep, tan, and persistant. The scent of hazalnut (more ice cream than coffee-like in fact) is very apparent. In terms of flavor the hazelnut is tuned to be equal to the malts - certainly much stronger than Rogue's Hazelnut Brown Nectar Ale. Few will dispute the comment that it is not as malt rich and potent as most traditional porters. Together with the assertive natural nut flavor it proved a bit contro- versial. One wrote 'Starbucks could not have done it better...high quality but not for me' while another wrote 'Bravo! Complex, amply flavored, well- blended, and expertly crafted...one cannot ask for more'. Distinct. A must try.

Tommyknocker Cocoa Porter (Winter Warmer)
RATING: 4.0
Idaho Springs, Colorado
Ordinarily cocoa powder would be an alterative to chocolate malts in a porter but this one also adds honey and so fully qualifies as a flavored porter for certain. From the land near Vail and Breckenridge (roughly) comes this product of a Colorado gold rush town from a brewery quickly earning high marks about the country. It pours very dark brown, amber hints by strong illumination, the head tall and dark. Cocoa predominates the nose. First sip is of tartness, malts coming to the fore, then a blast of authentic cocoa flavor, a variety of taste quite different from anything in choco malt family of flavors. It is surprising dry so the honey dose must be slight and used to tame the tartness a smidge. We all associate cocoa as a cold season warming drink and so this flavor fits what we learned in kindergarden or well before. I enjoy this brew very much but found one or two odd notes in some finishes, suggesting we have a slight way to go to get this where it might be. It's 5.7% ABV (says the website but never the packaging) so it's more about flavor than aging or other forms of potency. Brewheads are always suspicious of flavored beers and this one never seems to rate very well. I found it substantially more interesting, clever, and useful than the C+ that 99 people on Beer Advocate averaged to date. The whole "liquid Toosie Roll" charge was unfair and I think it has other qualities though not as much complexity as it might. I would bring out richer malts and maybe a bitter twang of hops in the finish. It's a pleasant beer but is not rounded enough to escape all claims of being a tarted up and contrived. Strengthening the traditional supportive notes (that is, malt and hops only) would be a good choice for Winter 2010's batch. It needs to develop beyond the thin, highly altered, low on traditional flavors, and gimmicky rep it has among experienced tasters. The potential is there. I do hope they take advantage and turn the simple Hershey's appeal into Godiva-class, worthy brilliance. 

RYE, RICE, SORGHUM, MILLET, SPELT, BUCKWHEAT (SOBA), NO GRAIN, AND ALTERNATIVE GRAIN BEERS

Bard's Gold: The Original Sorghum Malt Beer
RATING: 4.5
Utica, New York
It pour a dark, rich gold, perhaps a bit amber in a darkish room, head frothly like a PIls, and no lace. I would describe the curious aroma as "sweet and earthy" if pressed. The bottle's motto is "discuss it over a Bards" and one is more likely to discuss the beer before any other subject on earth. The forthright, dominant malt flavors remind one of an old whiskey and one gets sticky molasses through the mid and late notes. To gain entrance to their website you must scroll down (often wayyyyyyy down) for your birth date which curiously goes up to the year 1791. The finish is a bit weaker than their Dragon's Gold and I recommend both labels to anyone. I am not sure the gluten-free market is as large as the "let's try every beer at least once" market of millions in the US alone. Their site also have links to gluten-free cooking expos, gluten intolerance groups, and things about Celiac Disease. I really love they way they've used Google Maps to help one find a retail vendor. Very interesting beer whether your body or brain needs it more.

Bard's Tale Dragon's Gold (Sorghum Ale)
RATING: 5.0
San Jose, California
The label proudly proclaim: "Contains no wheat, barley, rye, or oats". Well then. Count out the German purists on this one. What they do use is malted sorghum in the whole grain form and that with hops is what you get. Color pours a luminescent amber-gold, slow but decent lace, rocky ivory head. Aroma to me said cheese at one point or two, later more hops and earthy grains came to bear. The flow of flavors and notes is quite unfamiliar ground for me. There was lightness, weakness, then tart, then some citrus, then a very rich malt of unknown sort (sorghum to be sure), followed by still more alien things. They claim innovation and inspiration and for my money this is what they got. The first few sips were frankly uncomfortable.

I'm now 1400 different beers deep in my mental bank and like the Roggen label below, this one does not have Dewey Decimel number in my mind's library. It's oversized AND unclassifiable but not in the National Enquirer or Barely Legal centerfold sense. The fourth or fifth sip, held long and swallowed slow confirmed the 5.0 rating you see here. Sorghum beer is not new (heck, even the giant A-B boys played around with it) but this iteration was a true learning experience and a tastebud stretcher. Quite simply they cared, experimented, and now get it  absolutely, straight-as-a-sorghum-plume right. Tall crop makes a tall beer. Admirable and worth replicating elsewhere. Actually, it was more of the new neuron connection maker for the old gray matter. When I sipped it long and slow until the bottle was empty the one word on my mind was "comfort". Sorghum is a comfort grain in various contexts. Once you tongue and head get around the quality-novelty of this stuff, you come to really like it. Did I buy just one? Damn...no way. Whole Foods is closed by now.

Bear Republic Hop Rod Rye
RATING: 5.0
Healdsburg, California
This bright amber ale is made with 18% rye with "dual overhead hop injection". Like me it is alcohol-burning and high performance...I mean the former thing in my case. The head is tan and long-lived. The hop injection is dual by most pale ale standards, many just a single carb by Sierra Nevada standards. With 8.0% ABV I'd put it with the Imperial American Pale Ale Group plus the rye category of course. My first question was this: doesn't all that hopping make the rye hard to taste. The answer is yes at first sip. As you let is linger with a second glass, the alternative grain's nature becomes more apparent and valuable. I really think this is a very well constructed ale, not unique or crazy or creative - just solid brewing qualities and losts of them in a refined proportion. It's very near my "desert island list" and could replace most any IPA there. And the price is very reasonable.

Bison Organic Red Rye Ale; Reunion '08: A Beer for Hope
RATING: 4.0
Chico, California
This large bottle benefits the Institute for Myeloma and Bone Cancer Research and thus I'm reserving my usual rant about lengthy beer names. There are few "painted", silk-screened bottles around with more paint than this one in loads of red, black, and beige. It is dedicated to their friend and partner Virginia MacLean who lost her battle (as they say) in 2007. Besides using rye they add caraway seeds as a bit of spice in what is called a "malt forward" approach. This ale is very dark amber with one of the most yellow heads I've seen since....[insert your politically incorrect joke here]. It is USDA Certified Organic and carries a 6.5% ABV rating.

I'm not sure I like all the modern focus on tumors and runny diseases when eating or drinking. Nor am I sure if all these efforts do much in part or together but the effort I generally applaud. Indeed, I'd rather drink good beer for charity than run even half a block or sell something sweet and nasty that might contribute other diseases. I take NAC and Milk Thistle and so my liver isn't (Lord willing) going to need a fundraiser anytime soon.I was shocked by the State of California warning that says the "decorations" on the label might contain lead or cadmium that cause birth defects from time to time. What? On a bottle raising funds for cancer? That's nuts and very close to Jay Leno joke material. Sorry guys...I'd have gone with natural, low toxicity labels for this cause.

Back to the point: flavor is sharp, acidic, both in a good way, the rye is clearly there if you've tried the grain in liquid form before. Malt hides some of the rye and caraway and that might to be a good thing for both could get wild and crazy in a hurry. Their restrained, sensible use of the two special ingredients is to be praised. Is it a great, good, or magical brew? No, yes, and no. It is different, worth trying again, and curious.

Clipper City Heavy Seas Letter of Marque Rye Porter
RATING: 4.0
Baltimore, Maryland
The whole "Letter of Marque" thing was about making a general, average pirate his own brand or privateer status. It was an early form of certification, covering ships, persons companies, dating to 1295 and perhaps before. The politics became complex. If you had the wrong LOM from an unpoplar leader or King, your fate was likely unkind. Clipper City uses this theme today to make a brewer a noted and admire professional but make his or her recipe into a distributed, bottled reality of a quality they can support. Their 2010 recipe is 7.8% as executed and comes from Frank Butt and Neil Heinlein and comes in 22 oz. bombers of brown hue. The bottle presents in dark brown, transparent but barely, not as dense as some of the porter styel. The head is above ample, inversely rocky and light tan, nose of complex malts. Here is a porter with some nip and yet a curious oddity of flavor that comes from the clever boldness and zest of the rye ingredient which is apparently dosed to full effect. Blindfolded I would not call it a porter but a Brown Rye Ale might be more suited to the overall effect. Does this this mean the label is not uber-malty and zippy-potent in the porter style? No. It qualifies as a porter to me but with not much room for semantics. The quality of this brew will win over most beer lover but I still expect the extreme, narrow definition porteristas to find fault while still appreciating it as something else. I think it is a notch or two too sweet for a porter but I have vowed to grade brews for their quality and not their name or claimed style. 4.0 in general and lower if porter law is enforced.

Founder's Red Rye (Red Ale made with Rye)
RATING: 5.0
Grand Rapids, Michigan
The label draws the eye for the lunatic old man with wild hair and spectacles smiling insanely in a shade of scarlet on cream. Color is amber-red and the cream head large. The nose is generic pale ale with extra sweetness. It sips very smoothly and the rye difference is immediately apparent; it's valuable and superb. Some rye-enhanced brews are barely discernable as such. This one is really what alternative grain recipes are about. It's a rich pale ale (as many red ales ultimately prove to be) and overall the hops are more dominant. There is a luxurious, easy, refined quality to the rye notes and I truly hope many more ales will be made this way. Here is a sensual beer and one well worth a beer tasting event. Get some.

Great Divide Hoss Rye Lager
RATING: 5.0
Denver, Colorado
Among so many luscious, stunning brews from Colorado, this new Hoss product is 6.2% and based on German Marzen lagers. "Rich layered, malt notes...hints of cherry and dark fruits" are claimed while the rye imparts spicy, earthy characters. It pours a luminous reddish-amber, so bold it set almost any table ablaze with light and beauty. The cream head is irregular, medium in all other respects. It has a faint loafy bite of rye bread (an flavor I adore on a weekly basis with my eternal grilled cheese and reuben sandwiches) and there are also quality sweet malts, layered well (yes), and these making an integrated approach of the highest quality. There is some hops in the finish but not much. If this is the only alternative grain beer you try, then you have had a fine, solid introduction to their merits and will surely come back to the atypical species vat again.

Take more than a nip of this rye nip and you'll be happy, content you have been served well from a fine establishment, learned something, and helped establish the rewards for creativity in American brewing. We have to dig deep at times and honor these American brewing heroes if we want them to continue to dazzle us, innovate, and shine on. That means buying and trying lots of new beers, even if just one small bottle per innovation, and passing on the goodness to our friends and family. Judging the label silhouette this is very much an homage to western, tough cowboys and in American legend something of Bonanza's Hoss Cartwright (played so admirably by Dan Blocker), a towering man of muscle and yet sweet calmness, anger when the time came, and a teddy bear with both teeth and a hug as the situation called for them. The word "hoss" in the US west and south seems to mean friend and partner but probably traces from the Swedish "hass" for "big in stature and big in spirit" - and Ben Cartwright's second wife on the show was from Sweden. Hoss Rye Lager is big in many ways, punching when a snap is called for but tending to be mellow in the background, cracking, smacking at times, sweet and gentle at the core, yet rough and ready.

Hambleton Toleration Ale
RATING: 4.5
Yorkshire, England
Toleration is wheat, rye, and barley-free for those intolerant of gluten is mainly based on sugar and hops. It is thus "no grain" instead of substitute grain. Cascade, Liberty, and Challenger hops and lots of quality sweetness are the basis for the flavor it seems. There is fruit, citrus tartness, and some others notes before the sweetness taps you firmly and affectionately. Color is a glorious, glowing amber, the head browner than expected. They use a "unique blend of sugars...conjured up an exciting wort in the copper where minerals and sugars interact". No malt from any grain is used and yet you'd swear that under all their deep, rich caramel waterfall must be some kind of malted something!!!! I'm not sure how they did it but they did it very right. The "beer soda" label fits but this is gourmet, hand-crafted, lavish-flavored beer soda and not something crude, simple, or offensive at any time. They gave us the caramel and roasted sugars without using a grain to deliver them. As of today, the 14 morons at the Beer Advocate (who in the usually larger population range from pompous idiots to real insightful students of beer), give it a D+ and there are lots of F's. This is no common oversugared beer - there is much more and I would think the morons who normally taste asparagus tips and wombat fruit in trendy British ales would take time to appreciate it and be...well...tolerant. I not only tolerate it, I admire much about it. Anyone has a right to say they don't like it but the brewing skill is remarkable here even if an illusion is pulled off. I think the Copperfieldian trick works (malty sugars without malt) but purists will posture and prance in the opposite direction. I probably would have toned down the sugars and brought the hop bitterness up 2-3 notches but I really like this adventurious, resourceful approach to give people something different; whether needed a bit, necessary, or optional. To me it's visionary but give it a slightly less sweet, more hoppy variation and I'll be coming back month after month.

Kiuchi Hitachino Nest Red Rice
RATING: 5.0
Ibaraki, Japan
Okay, okay. Rice is not really an exotic, strange alternative grain for brewing because oceans of cheap brew and light beer crapola is made with it. This 7% refined Japanese product is to those loutish, rude creations what pristine, rare brown sushi rice is to some nuke-in-a-bag thing sitting on the supermarket shelf for 2.7 years. The red rice is a superior variety cultured in the ancient Japanese style, giving a special taste and a reddish-amber color. People sometimes write about it's rosy color from the rice. I used four different light sources (flourescent and incandescent) and found no such color magic going on. I cannot quite express what flavors I'm experiencing although some warm grain notes did sooth my sore throat better than any beer tried that night - and there were about 20 of them. It is somehow cheerful and somber at once, very different and very competant. It is almost a malt broth, a ricey soup yet with a slight tart spriteliness. Is sprite-li-ness a word? It is now and it belongs here. I cannot place the fruit notes in that tartness. Sometimes we just have "general tartness" in a beer and we need not same a particular berry or pome. Except for grain and green olives, one would be a fool to be very specific here. I have never described a brew as grainy, brothy, and yet clearly eminating scents of green olives! Being a oleaphile, I though I was going mad until I read two web reviews that confirmed my unripe olive observation. Maybe all three of us a nuts. It has a vital quality one is not used to from the known European portfolio of styles. It is earthy yet not simple. Detractors found it "funky", "too medicinal", "thin and metallic",  and "sour". I disagree but then again I adore green olives, any kind of quality rice, and most any broth than comes down the pipes.

DeProef Green's Endeavour All Natural Dubbel Dark Ale
RATING: 4.0
Gent, Belgium
These $6.95 bottles are just 500ml but have 7% ABV and are bottle-fermented. Millet, Rice, Buckwheat, and Sorghum are used, making it taste different and also appeal to those with wheat and/or barley allergies. Color is a very dark rootbeer, the lace typical bottle-conditioned ale, and head a bit quick to depart here. First notes are a bit tart, lean, and only fainted malted. It has a soda-like level of high carbonation (far less sugar however) where it begins to mix good grain flavors with malt throughout the mid to late notes. Finish is rather dry and one gets a nice harmonic blend of grain flavors even in warmer temperatures. It is overall an interesting departure from normal dark ale flavors, Belgian or not, and in this sense it is a rewarding change of pace. It is not as rich or deep in malt as one might like to make it either memorable or "a must buy again". It will be too thin for most of you and at this price, we deserve to expect much, much more. They have a nice line and each is worth at least one go.

New Holland Golden Cap Saison Ale
RATING: 3.0
Holland, Michigan
Here is an American facsimile of an old European Saison Ale but differs in the use of spelt, an ancient grain that predated wheat and barley in some regions. This is old, old, old school. Actually super-old farmyard. Color of the pour is pale like a Belgian White and the spicing is similar but decidely nippy in the finish - stinging and buzzing even. ABV% is 6.25% so the nip must come from spices and hops I suppose. The big question remains: does the spelt make a difference, any difference, good or bad? I would give that question a possible maybe with a questionable liklihood of some potential for yes. It is smooth enough and luxuriantly so - but wheat can do that too. Maybe if they toned down the spice, the spelt would shine or would that make it weak or dull? Can't say because I can't de-spice it but I think the the spelt novelty is very much lost - unless it needs to be lost; in which case they disguised a mistake well enough for it to sell. It's a good beer not a great one and overspiced, too peppery regardless of the grain in my opinion.

Rogue Morimoto Black Obi Soba Ale
RATING:
Newport, Oregon
Soba is a traditional Japanese noodle made from aromatic buckwheat flour and in the case of this brew the roast soba or buckwheat grain is used. The main aroma in buckwheat or soba is Salicylaldehyde  (2-hydroxybenzaldehyde) for you brew chemists among us though five other compounds add additional flavors. Besides being "buckwheat flavor", this big chemical imparts something we perceive as faint almond flavor. It has been used in perfumes, so wonderful and light it's character. Curiously, this same chemical is used by a dozen insect species (at least) in their behavorial signals. Barley malts of the Harrington, Metcalf, Munich, C-15, C-60, and Carafa No. 2 style are added. Hops include Horizon, Sterling, and Cascade. Rogue uses their familiar and proven Pacman yeast. An "obi" is a Japanese sash or belt, the "Black Obi" being a likely reference to the Black Belt rank in the martial arts. This label got Gold in the 2005 World Beer Championships and the coveted World Champion Prize in 2006. I had tried the regular Morimoto Soba Ale years ago, even before knowing about the magical, brilliant chef's work from the Iron Chef America TV series. This is a darker, more potent, diverse flavor panel, quite worthy of the man whose name it bears.

Color is very dark brownish-amber (the regular Soba Ale quite golden), the head rocky and beige. It smells of sweet breads. First taste is tart transitioning very quickly into smooth, yummy soba flavors of the more remarkable alternative grain style. It has a rewarding dark nut flavor laced with spritely almond subthemes, earthy but never harsh, as smooth as a telescope mirror, and as dominating-elegant as a 10th degree black belt's master class. Chef Masaharu Morimoto would not have given his name to this label or the others without meeting his strict standards not only for superb flavor and quality but having his own brand of unique originality; something not done before but not sacrificing anything for the novelty of it. His new is always as good or better than the  finest of "old". This is truly what a World Champion Beer should taste like - drinkable to a 9th bottle, mind-blowing, flavorable without pummeling you with malty and hoppy sledgehammers, dry not missing sweet, enchanting strata of flavors, and all around perfection. I'd love a dipping or sushi sauce made from this reduced with honey. Better, stage an Our Gang/Little Rascals movie night at your house, serve this, and see if anyone gets the "black buckwheat" reference. The botanist in me also wants to be certain you know that buckwheat is not a grain, despite the name, but a fruit not in the big Grass Family but having a similar function. The latin name is Fagopyrum...have fun with that too.

Thurn und Taris Roggen (Rye)    g    wr    5.0    878    BEST RYE BEER 1997    Regensburg    This RYE ALE or ROGGEN beer is dark amber with a persistant cream colored head.    It has a rich aroma typical of rye beers and as you wheat beer lovers know    these are wonderfully flavorful beverages - especially with the rich Hefe or    yeasty-cloudy quality of this one. It is extremely rich and flavorful perhaps    on the order of a Maisel's Hefe-Weizen but does not seem to have as much lace    as many German wheats. It ranks ahead of Schierlinger (our former BEST RYE in    the database) with a superior depth and sophistication. There is absolutely    nothing to fault with this fine product and some of us acquired half liter    bottles as cheaply as $2.99. Label collectors note some nice artwork here - a    old-fashioned carriage in a rye field below a crest dating from 1490. Must try!


STOUT 

Abita Jockamo Stout

3.5
Abita Springs LA

Color is very dark brown. Flavor is rather thin for a stout and instead it favors that sweet, drinkable side of the stout classification. Caramel malts (though not an over abundance to be sure) are emphasized and a hint of hops comes out in the finish or sometimes earlier. Like many of Abita's products it is often tame and aimed at a more timid beer experimenter than an avid beer taster.


Alcatraz Lights Out Stout u ds 1017 LOOK FOR A COMPLETE REVIEW AND RATING IN A FUTURE VERSION. COMMENTS AND REVIEWS SUBMITTED BY USERS WILL BE INCLUDED.

Allagash Black Belgian Style Stout
RATING: 3.0
Portland, Maine
While I might have lumped this with the dark Belgian ales, the merger of Belgian Ale and Stout is technically a new and curious class. The overall approach is Imperial Stout, the more potent or Double Stout type. The hue is nearly opaque brown but I see faint glints of red against two compact fluorescent in my desk's 30 in. wide Tiffany Pink Daffodil replica. The head is light brown, enduring well, and the aroma about average for a regular stout. At 7.5% ABV this is not your Uncle Trevor's stout recalled from his days in Belfast. It has both wheat and oats in the recipe along with Belgian dark candi and a Belgian yeast strain.

It is by no means a stronger Belgian Brown for it has no spice, yeast, fruit, or sweet malt. I'm assured by beer nuts greater than myself that "Belgian Stout" is neither a true nor recognized style thought Hercule Stout might come to define it someday, somewhere. Ommegang Chocolate Indulgence Ale is another candidate for standard. High ABV does not a style make and so I'm still wary of this claim whether from Maine or across the pond. This stuff has malty-tart overdose to an extreme but I do not find it complex, layered, or any of those important things that differentiate average stouts from the legends. I do not need an elevated ethanol buzz to get off for I can easily consume beverages in any combination to get me to nirvana at any point in time and for said amounts of plastic money. Perhaps I am unimpressed for there is nothing here to distinguish this except big alkie boosting; the performance of grace notes (which might have been Belgian spices or fruit esters or yeasty charms) are silent. Stouts to me are comforting, slow-sipping, easy-swallerin', blessedly warm, and softly hedonistic to the hilt. If you dare to add the phrase "Belgian-style" you better be dripping with Old Country, brilliant execution to the very last drop. High ABV without anything more going on is worthless as sub-category in my opinion. If Ethanol gets in the way of the style's traditional mellowing approach to liquid life  - do cut it down to a balanced and reasonable dose! Try to thrill us will ya' and not load your website with hollow hype; undelivered in the real beverage. And please give us something special and memorable that a pricey bottle deserves. A mid-rate stout boosted to 7.5% is not worth $14.00 in this decade or the next. I don't like to be hoodwinked and screwed over and I felt it was a $6.99 750ml at best. Lesson learned. Try it if you're rich and don't care about money or being stoutly micro-raped.

Anderson Valley Barney Flats Oatmeal Stout
Rating: 5.0
Mendocino, California
This is perhaps the most praised product from AV's Mendocino house of wonder- ful beer. Color is similar to Deep Enders Dark Porter but more opaque. Like most oatmeal stouts it is smooth and rather sweet. Pale, carmel, and choco- late malted barleys were employed for this effect. The finish is more herbal and hoppy than AV Porter. This is one of the finest American dark beers to be bottled and marketed. It is not easy to find in many Eastern cities. One of the best stouts in our archives.

Avery The Czar Imperial Stout
RATING: 5.0
Boulder, Colorado
This big stout is brewed with English yeast and German Halltertau hops, giving a dark blackish-brown color that lets just a smidge of light through. You get a thin ray of red light through the inky darkness. The head is surprising pale, cream, large-bubbled and short-lived for me. This is a very fascinating stout, loaded immediately with fruit notes like a cornicopia made of malt. Wow! Must be an ample amount of UK yeast? The hops spicing is very nice, balanced with precision or should I say....artfully. Magnum hops also round out the recipe as do two-row, black, cocholate, carafa 111, cara 8, cara 45, and honey malts. It's a whopping 11.7% ABV and it's nicely disguised until the finish's final chomp. Early on it could pass for 7%. 60 IBU's are notable too. It is one of the smoothest sipping 11% beers on the planet, very well developed as is and cellerable for even more beauty. The 2003 Gold at the US Beer Tasting Championships went to this label. There are faint passages of anise, resin, molasses, currants, and caramel throughout the presentation. Some friends felt it overpowering but some of them are used to big beer flavor or ethanol. Those of us who suckle malt and Etoh like mother's milk will have a far more impressive evaluation. This stuff will put hair on your chest and you'll enjoy the sophisticated, fruity, diverse notes in the process.
Big Boss Aces & Ates Coffee Stout
RATING: 5.0
Raleigh, North Carolina
This limited release (said to be 0561 of 5000!) was bottled Nov. 2008 and uses Larry's Beans (no relation) but a roasty, strongish 8% ABV stout. The beans are locally roasted (hence fresh aromatics), fair trade, organic, and probably other cool PC stuff. Are the dancing beans free range and died of natural causes while cuddled by their commune of bi lovers and ground with harmonic crystals blessed by Native American chiefs? Probably not but they'll probably be doing this soon in our neighboring town, the Peoples Republic of Carrboro, after the Post-Obama Inauguration drugs wear off. It pours as dark as a moonless night in Hershey PA; the skies are magicaly dark brown there or is that just the pollution? The head is light brown, coarsely-bubbled, and aroma is rich and fetching as expected. I have not always liked my chosen state's microbrews (and ratings reflect that in other sections) but this one is truly suitable for the Capitol of Mayberry. Aunt Bea wouldn't be drinking it (she has a token to get pickled) but I could see Otis lumbering into his personal cell with a nearly spent bottle in hand, announcing to Barney he was in the house for the night. (And as a fun bit of trivia, Hal "Otis" Smith in real life did the voice of Goofy, Winnie-the-Pooh, Scordge McDuck, and Elmer Fudd, didn't imbibe, and also directed a number of lauded Andy Griffith episodes).

The flavor is exuberiantly malty, almost as tart as a nimble porter on first sip, dry all around, and expertly layered with just the optimal amount of roasty, toasy Coffea arabica. It's a Coffee Imperial Stout, a variant of the double-strength stuff by classification. There are no creamy, warm-as-a-blanket, comforting malts in the finish but these coffee-bittered malts are delightful both cold and down to 60 F. So many other coffee stout makers go too light on the treasured beans (and we need to be told they exist), appear to use commercial cheap coffee, or tart it up with too much sugar like any StarBucks scam splashed with Grey Goose from the morning flask. The "22 ounce bombers" as they call them, are splendidly crafted and while I did not swoon at their Bad Penny Brown Ale, I'm now certain these local dudes have ample talent for hundreds more limited editions of extreme merit. Love the unique gunmetal grey foil label too. Still trying to figure out the "Handle Your Business" motto but they do this well and with the 8% a gentle velvet tap and not a hammer. The integrity, "beer smarts", and perceptive refinement that have gone into this label are noteworthy. 5000 here we come...I'll be watching, buying, and trying.

Big Hole Montana Russian Imperial Stout
RATING: 3.5
This dark brown stout has a strong punch of both malt and alcohol though perhaps not in the refined way one would hope for. There are strong roasted and molasses flavors and rich herbal notes that are very hard to characterize. They may be at once pleasant and yet sometimes disagreeable. This is therefore an interesting beer to taste test if one can get a sample.
Big Rock Flying Buffalo Oatmeal Stout u ds 4.0 1018 MI Color is blackish brown with a big tan head of some size. Flavor is quite strong and favoring the malt side with sweet carmel to the forefront. A floral hopping comes out though one does not have the total balance that the standards have. And as a warning: if you do start seeing flying buffalos it's time to call and get some help.


Blackwood Mountain Stout u ds 1019 LOOK FOR A COMPLETE REVIEW AND RATING IN A FUTURE VERSION. COMMENTS AND REVIEWS SUBMITTED BY USERS WILL BE INCLUDED.


Boulder Stout
RATING: 5.0 
Boulder, Colorado
This Colorado classic has found its way to the East and gives a wonderfully complex and satisfying malt elegance. In our experience you may have to look hard for this. It is a worthy comparison to any Anchor or Sierra Nevada dark beer.
Boundary Bay Oatmeal Stout u ds 4.0 1019 WA This near black stout is intensely malted and carries a strong hop bitterness. You get smoke flavor and bitter hops in one big dose that not all find so appearling. It is certainly not as sweet as the name may imply either. You are likely to either love it or leave it alone forever. Oh yes, it also has a rocky head (bad pun alert).

Breckenridge Oatmeal Stout
RATING: 4.5
Denver, Colorado\Breckenridge, Colorado\Dallas, Texas\Buffalo, New York
There are just so many fine stouts made in this country one hardly knows where to begin. This one is deep brown with one of the darker heads made on the entire continent. That advertised rich aroma, chocolate notes, sweet malty nature, and smoothness are all there. It will satisfy and some of our tasters gave it that illusive perfect 5.0 bottles. Others did not and it seems mainly because it is competant and not really startling enough; sort of Honda of the stout world. It won't fail you but then it will not knock your socks off either. A few stout authorities (pun very true) felt a balance of hops was the main reason for lack of a deeper sophistication. Everyone wanted more. 

Brew Dog Paradox Isle of Arran Stout
RATING: 5.0
Fraserburgh, Scotland
The idea of a stout aged in whiskey barrels is enough to...well...make me pay $7 for a small bottle of beer. The aroma is hard to pin down and so one must sip. The best way to think of this fine 10% brew is that of classic super-malty stout spiced with a bit of cinnamon, vanilla, and that whiskey-barrel nip which is probably 289 different nameable chemicals - were I to have a mass spec machine on this desk. Oak aging can be overdone and underdone but here it is judged just right to compliment rather than be subdued by or dominating the classic stout theme. It is very much a spiced stout in practice and one that is ultra-yummy. This would be fantastic as some kind of flavoring for a sauce or batter given the depth and quality of flavors. I rare get two 5.0 bottle beers in one day and this one came directly after 8-4-1 Redhook so I was even harder to amaze. This is a savory beer in a good sense, satisfying down to the gills, a rare combination of flavors should should be more common and be tried often again.

Brock's Extra Stout
RATING: 4.5

Niagara Falls, Ontario, Canada
Niagara Falls Brewing of Ontario stunned us with their Gritstone Ale so this stout arrived with high expectations. Color is solidly opaque brown and the head is the amongst the darkest known to us. The early flavor elements are traditional and strong stuff with all the right effects on our senses. The finish is never sweet but has a dry bitterness. Given a go against Sierra Nevada Stout you'll find the California product stronger and more overpower- ing. Ditto for Guiness. Brock's fits the DRY STOUT or IRISH STOUT group which Guiness owns as the industry standard. Reviewers here noted "the finish lacks a certain complexity that is not to be confused with strength or density" and "very enjoyable...no complaints except for availability". Mixed reviews.


Casey's Smooth Stout e ds 4.5 931 Waterford/Faversham Kent Brewed by Shepherd Neame for Casey's of Waterford this stout is a not quite opaque reddish-brown with a lasting tan head. It proves rather dry and is remarkably complete in flavor elements. One finds both good ale fruit flavors plus full malt potency. The finish has echoes of chocolate that are quite refined. While full enough for most fans it reminded others of an ALE PORTER or DARK BROWN ALE. It was indeed very smooth and rewarding as advertised. Reviewers noted 'superficially rather moderate but a diversity of quality flavors quickly present themselves'. Another wrote 'not as rich as I demand in a DRY STOUT but as BROWN ALE it would rate quite high in my opinion'. The $8.00 or higher price tag was not a positive point for modern value.


Cooper's Best Extra Stout a ds 5.0 494 BEST STOUT FALL 1994 Leabrook From Copper's of Leabrook South Australia comes a very superb stout that is extremely opaque brown with a dark head and modest carbonation. It is much the equal of Sheaf Stout and even Grant's Perfect Porter. It is rich with chocolate and roasted malt quality by the truck load. At $8.50 a six it is and should be superior to Guiness Extra Stout. It really has no flaws and is one of finest dark beers you can buy when and if it can be found. Top fer- mentation together with bottle fermentation is an uncommon combination of methods that shows in the finished product. One reviewer mentioned the large bubbly head as a tiny distraction - many stouts are more finely foamy. You find real depth, graceful malt power, and a balanced semi-dry finish.

Dragon Stout
RATING: 4.0 
Kingston, Jamaica
Desnoes & Geddes Ltd. of Jamaica produce this fine stout that has a brown head of some duration and dark reddish-brown color. It starts a bit sweet but soon reveals it's mellow molasses themes. The finish is never tart but is always smooth and syrup-filled. At about $7.00 for 6 bottles it was nicely priced compared to British stouts. While it lacks some complexity it is absolutely enjoyable and appealing as a moderately full SWEET STOUT. 

The Duck-Rabbit Milk Stout
RATING: 4.0
Farmville, North Carolina
The "Dark Beer Specialists" from eastern NC produce this very dark brown brew with a foamy cream head of good duration. The smooth milk sugars are used to good advantage and the malting is full and pleasant. There's a nice fullness of flavor but not as complex as it will be in many other bottles reviewed here. It's neither offends not impresses and is "microbrew nominal" if you will. There are nice chocolate, coffee, and even almond notes throughout but one is never bowled away at any point. The finish is dry with a bit of hops, not much, but occasionally with off, awkward notes; the late only occasionally noticable when near room temp. I suspect it was bred and raised from the beginning to be smooth above all things and that reduces the chances to for hoppy insurgencies and fuller malt finishes. The sweetness level is nicely chosen for my taste at least. The malts are too earthy, perhaps lactose residuals as well, for some tastes. My favorite stout test is to sip a bit and see if my brain and body want more. They did and points were earned. Still it's not yet "spot on" or polished as they may reach in coming years. I think they ought to sit down with a panel of local stout-o-philes who have many gallons of the delicious inky brew under their bulging belts - and take all the little points down. It's a very nice recipe but fine-tuning will take careful work. 

Eel River Raven's Eye Imperial Stout
RATING: 4.5
Scotia, California
A strong, USDA-certified organic stout is a very rare thing but I suspect we'll get more of these in coming decades; along with stouts certified not to be tested of stray kittens or dumb blonde teen models. It's 9.5% ABV and I like that in stout as much as I like dark color and malts. It's just the other side of opaque in the pour, mixed beige and brown in the head, a nose lavish with tart and rich malty notes. There's a little sweetness early for pleasant but the finish is dry and with the high ABV thingey going down your throat. In my silly head I see a river writhing with long eels of several species known to me with iridescent ravens flying low over the water and occasionally diving to barely handle a long slippery creature before taking it back to the church steeple. Occasionally two large birds work together to snare a thick green moray, each carrying one end back to the house of worship like an rebellious, thick banner. Their lowly cousins, the crows, sit outside the church, occasionally squabbling over bits of eel flesh that thump down on the lawn with some regularity during the day.

This dandy stout has a very special, not ordinary balance of hops and malt. It is not overly tart like many porter-stouts that are sold under the imperial tag these days. The malt is warming to be sure, beautifully stratified, notes varying and shifting with an entertaining way about it. This dark brew is overflowing in goodness, malty variability, and that should be enough for most of us. The finish is a bit simple by the time the bottle is drained. The ethanol is there but balanced and not always intrusive; sometimes not with every sip and not a flaw for my armored tube. There are finer stouts but some of the greats are not always as interesting in the final analysis. Is the organic thing a ploy? Sure! and why not? That element is neither a pass, tastebud condom, nor an affirmative action point booster. Very competent, a good fit, and it happens to be dark and fun; and no equally qualified blonde ales from Alabama lost their jobs as a result. THUMP...yes! Fresh eel tartare for everyone!

Fort Collins Chocolate Stout
RATING: 4.5
Fort Collins, Colorado
Their goal is a "velvety, smooth mouthfeel and impeccable flavor" and this super-opaque product matches the marketing for once. Roasted and choco malts are blends with a bit of hops bitterness for a nice product that is very accessible but refined enough for the experienced beer lover. They offer a Double Chocolate Stout in larger bottles and I've yet to get that but hope to. This product is gratifying enough, pacifying even, and good for slow sipping on a slow afternoon on a day off from work. (Sip a bottle of this some Monday and think of your co-workers suffering and laboring away while you watch a House MD marathon and later drift off the sleep about 3pm). It warms and charms without much detail or attention-getting notes and in a stout that is a good thing. You get malt supremacy, friendly delivery at all times, little sugar, and a dry finish.

Founder's Breakfast Stout
RATING: 5.0
Grand Rapids, MichiganIt's a clearly brilliant, delightful presentation of semi-sweet "coffee beer" but not a pathetically sugared-up, Star Bucksian cup of crap. If I could melt a couple of No-Doz pills in it each morning I'd never drink regular coffee again - then again the 8.5% ABV would make me too big a revenue source for Highway Patrolman Buzzcut and his new 6.1 Hemi Charger. 
He's the "liquid lunch" for early in the day. Their argument is sensible. It has oatmeal, chocolate, sweetness, and coffee. I even detected a big of bacony smoke. And no cholesterol. Vegetarian too. The label of a cute lad in a bib taking down his morning meal from a bowl. It's a curious convergence of ideas for some years ago I did pour a bit of Guiness Stout into some oatmeal and found myself better for the experience. (Note to self: stout-battered, country-fried chicken biscuits with Heizen-weizen white gravy. And for the record, our southern US country-fried everything with peppery white gravy is really a version of German Wiener Schnitzel made by immigrants in Texas with the more readily cube steak, pork, and chicken of their new home). It pours as dark and opaque as any brew on the planet, the head very brown and enduring. It's satiny malt overload, oatmeal doing very nicely here.

They actually used bitter and sweet imported chocolate; the real mud and not the malt of the same name. Sumatra and Kona coffee, two of the finest gourmet regionals, are added too. It comes down to 8.5% ABV and 25 IBU with unfiltered presentation. It's clearly of the double or Imperial variety of strong stout but despite the extra flavorings and high ABV, it's easy on the mouth. Their effort with all the real cacao products and coffee is evident and should be a lesson to other brewers who go cheaper and quicker in their premium stout offerings. It's a clearly brilliant, ambrosial presentation of semi-sweet "coffee beer" but not a pathetically sugared-up, Star Bucksian cup of overpriced crap. Breakfast Stout delivers a wonderfully intricate yet potent beverage, as serious and honest as any stout from any land at any time in my memory. This is my favorite, newly tried American Stout for 2008-2009 and I'm delighted to become acquianted with another fine brewery whose work I will follow and buy at every occasion. Those of you have been cheatin' and going generic recipe on your premium stout had better try this label before bringing it on - because you're going to be "brought hard" to this bench to view it's hefty mark. If I could melt a couple of No-Doz pills in it each morning I'd never drink regular coffee again - then again the 8.5% ABV would make me too big a revenue source for Highway Patrolman Buzzcut and his new silver Hemi Charger. 

Great Divide Pak Age Yeti Imperial Stout
RATING:
Denver, Colorado
This $8.99 bottle is 650ml, labeled "massive" and "complex" with a silhouette of the Patterson film Bigfoot (or maybe her cousin Ms. Yeti) running across the frame. The ABV is 9.5% and thus above their regular Imperial Stout. It pours chocopaque and the head is one of the deepest brown shades known in the beer world. Nose is that of chilled chocolate ice cream when gotten straight from the store's cooler. My first impression was simply the world SUMPTUOUS. The ABV is apparent and they've certainly not taken the sweet or milk or oatmeal line to hide that. There's no crying with imperial stouts. They are big, brawny, massive, and yet remarking agile; fierce and friendly as the situation demands.

This brew reminds me of a reported Sasquatch sighting where a big hairy beast was pursuing a young deer in the woods. The human witnesses swear the deer leaped the ditch elegantly and with species typical grace. The fast-closing Bigfoot lept just as gracefully and intercepted the prey mid-flight, ending up with it's snack in arm by the edge of the 10 foot bank. There's grace and there's also grace with absolute power and inevitable control. The flavors are rich of chocolate malts, very clear and surreal complexity, explosions of so many notes I can count them about as well as when listening to an unfamiliar Presto movement. While the ethanol can be jabbing and medicinal at times (this being a minor flaw to me), I do not find it terribly annoying or lingering, the layered flavors doing there job exchanging and stratifying glory upon glory. I am certain it benefits from the oak but this is not a whiskey or sherry type augmention by any means. I think one would or should put some of these away for cellar aging - I am never no disciplined or patient but in theory that's a good idea.

Greenshields Stout u ds 4.5 646 Raleigh NC Out of the Old City Market in Raleigh North Carolina comes this dark stout which is opaque reddish-brown with a short-lived head but abundant carbon- ation. Curiously the package says to serve at 40-45 (50-55 is ideal by most stout experts) but perhaps that is just a leftover mistake from other labels. We tried both temps but the warmer was more aromatic and rewarding. The brew is nicely malty (as the color would predict) but there's a delightful, well brewed hop-based nip in the mid palate. 'It grabs your tongue' said one re- viewer. The finish was a bit 'ragged' to a few but others had no such com- plaint. Overall its a DRY STOUT but not as bitterly so as some IRISH STOUTS.

Even golden beer enthusiasts felt it was the best of their 4 labels tried.
Guinness Extra Stout i ds 4.0 147 BEST BEER SOLD IN CANS 1994 

No flippin' way!!!! I can read the emails in my mind now. Let me explain. This is a review of bottled and canned beers only.

This was the first extra dark beer to be widely sold in recent years. It taught Americans about how good a dark mellow beer could be. One does still hear comments that this would make a better walnut deck stain. It lacks our highest rating as we feel Mackeson Triple Stout, Beck's Dark, and Grolsch Dark are a touch more smooth - less bitter. Super refined Whitbread Ale is another alternative. It is tops for mixing 50:50 with a gold lager.

Hoppin' Frog B.O.R.I.S. (Bodaceous Oatmeal Russian Imperial Stout) - The Crusher
RATING: 4.5
Akron, Ohio
Let's start with the most important fact about this brew: GABF Gold Medal Winner 2008 for Imperial Stout. With a 9.4% punch, 17 OG, and 60 IBU "The Crusher" (aka BORIS) is one potent item. It pours as dark as anything in the style and the head too will contend for darkest in the beer world. Malt is so thick it will saturate your tastebuds from the first second. The finish is a mix of medium hops and ethanol bite. This "grand-daddy of all stout styles" does not disappoint. It warms wonderfully and with the ethanol nicely disguised - unless you chug half a 22 oz. bottle for some unknown reason. (I tried - it's a new technique I perfected in college and surprising it works well to quickly saturate the buds and get to an evaluation point). Flavor elements are dominated by dry malt, coffee for certain, light chocolate noticable in time, faint licorice, and the finish very dry. It is too bitter for one stout expert I consulted though admired the overall craftmanship. It is not so sweet the "oatmeal" word in that name normally implies. There are also dark fruit esters there but I cannot name a single pome species with any confidence. Perhaps it's the mystical Malaysian Malt Berry which just combines coffee, licorice, and cocoa. Wasn't that handy? If you like your stouts very rigorous, tall in flavor, and very dry, this will please. 

Hopstreet Oatmeal Stout ds 1205


Humes Steep Canyon Stout
RATING: 5.0 
Glen Ellen, California
In 1996 Brewbase voted it our BEST AMERICAN STOUT SPRING. When was the last time you had a 100% organic, bottle-conditioned stout? We've not had the honor before. Color is very opaque brown and due to the krausening and bottle conditioning its has the deepest head you could want. As the light- blocking color would suggest it is very rich and deep in malt flavors. The finish is crisp and dry - slightly bitter but a good bitter. Reviewers commented on its "highest possible quality in flavor and presentation...surely one of the finest dry stouts from this country" and "truly yummy dark beer...a never-ending feast of malt with a head that lasts all night". Highly recommended for all stout lover even if the organic ingredients aren't a priority.


Johnson's Authentic Oatmeal Stout u ds 4.5 857 Charlotte NC So far we have found the Johnson Beer Company products a mixed lot - their Brown Ale being as intensely wonderful as their Pils was mediocre. Such are the hazards of a new firm. Happily this London-style stout falls on the good side of the ledger; not the first time a brewery had great darker beers and questionable paler ones. Color is dark reddish brown with a lasting tan head of some distinction. It is sweet, malty, brothy, smooth, rich, silky, and all those other adjectives a good stout possesses. It is perhaps not as complex as some others and we put that down to a central theme of malt with less of a hops presence to round it out. But oatmeal stouts are perhaps properly so mono-dimensional (sweet malt) so it would be a fact rather than a fault.

Lakefront Snake Chaser Irish Style Stout
RATING: 4.0
Milwaukee, WI
This $12 sixpack (March 2009) is named for the legend about St. Patrick driving the (evil, Satanic) snakes out of Ireland. The label here looks more like Pope John Paul giving a severe reprimand to a Komoto Dragon but I get the point; wood carvings were this way back when. This brewery has been around since 1987 and they're apparently working one bottle at a time to restore the town's former reputation for actually flavored beer; something which lapsed, shall we say, from maybe 1950 to 1987, when American watery pseudo-Pil, faux-lager become their stock and trade in Milwaukee; Wilwaukee's Best is their Worst, etc. It pours absolutely opaque brown and I kept holding it to a 300 watt bulb to prove otherwise. Head is foamy light brown, very durable. IT begins "porter tart" but ends with elegant, rich malts of smoother, more stout-like quality. As I normally do in recent years (experience helps with stout tastings), I try any new stout at at least three temps and more if possible. There are some different notes here which some people describe various as earthy, mineral-like, or acrid. I find these adding to the quality and not the reverse, chocolate notes vague but acidic coffee nice in the mid notes. It's very dry in the true Irish so if you want a sugar-malt bath try another style and not complain about this one being true. My fault it that's it's two notches thinner than the style demands. I can live with the tartish dryness and mineral notes.

Left Hand Fade to Black Volume 1 Foreign Export Stout
RATING: 4.5
Longmont, Colorado
Here's a label for some hall of fame somewhere - there's never been a black and white beer label as snaring to the eye. But for the 300th time, it's really all about the fluid behind the glued paper. Head and color are stereotypes. This 8.5% stout sips with above average malt complexity for a US micro-stout, clearly a dry and hoppy product from recipe forward. There's enough comfort in the mid notes, prior to the dry-as-Gobi blast, to win one over on their brewing style. Hops are Magnum and US Goldings, developed to a nice balance. Malts are pale 2-row, roasted barley, balt malt, chocolate, cara-aroma, and malted wheat. If the "Foreign Export Stout" phrase is accurate, then I can see why they put their best dark foot forward. "Smooth as a Longmont debutant" one friend asked me write about this; I'll let you dream naughty ebony dreams from there on your own. The Left Hand website proclaims flavors of "licorice, espresso bean, molasses, and black cardamom that gives way to a feeling of self loathing, burnt opportunities, and smoked relationships". Now that's different - was their site hacked or are they being obtuse, clever, and like most microbrews love to be portrayed...a bit insane. "We're a bunch a crazy, long-haired dudes in vintage t-shirts with more money than we deserve and rogue, genius talent and a bottling machine". That's what three hundred of those sites present but Left Hand actually manages to deliver fluids worthy of the website. I just wish they'd change the Community Involvement page to read "we get people drunk on good beer and make them happy. Happy people will do the rest."

Lion Stout
RATING: 5.0
Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka I exclaimed and then read the quote from beer guru Michael Jackson on the label which includes a mini-image of him. High marks for that. They claim five international gold medals on the neck labels too. My first reaction was the lovely, highly collectible lion's head cap - one of the best animal caps seen in years. This black-as-night brew is 8.0% ABV, aromatic and big-headed. It is all-get-out smoky and potent and yes I really do like that style of things. One bottle of this stuff would keep Hickory Farms going with flavoring for months. Still the smoke doesn't cover faults for there's enough chocolate and moderate roasted flavors to round it out. A little research shows they use Czech, Danish, and British malts, hops from Syria and an unnamed English yeast. The presentaton here is excellent and Guiness will not always show as well. Some reviewers thought it was a tad salty, having "soy sauce" notes even. I'm not certain of that but I do not roasted soybeans and roasted malt are going to have some chemistry in common. In the final analysis, I think one's rating (5.0 to me but 3.5 to others) comes down to whether you like your lion's roaring and loud or quiet and tame. Some folks think smoky malts is an overdone, crude style and I certainly don't agree with that. Excess is good in many categories in life and Stouts deserves of them. This one gets the 5.0 because the smoke trails off and doesn't overwhelm the finish which is clean enough for the overall style. Excess + sophistication = real thrill. Now let me move on to my blonde Czech supermodel girlfriend and our no-holes-barred trip up the coast in my vintage Ferrari. (Okay...it's really a burrito combo TV dinner, more good labels of beer, a rusty Ford F-150 with 223K, no trip, and my divorced, chain-smoking neighbor who looks pretty darn super in her Daisy Dukes and black roots after the bottles hit the floor).

Lost Coast Stout
RATING: 5.0
Eureka, California
This product of Eureka CA is made with American 2-row barley, northwest hops and ale yeast. Color is among the most opaque black and the head is persistantly dark brown. It is of the rich chocolate type of stout that bears taste-testing with North Coast and Anderson Valley stouts that come in similar bottles. It finishes very cleanly although if too warm it may take on some full herbal notes. It is wonderful and highly drinkable.


Mackeson Triple Stout XXX 
RATING: 5.0
London, England
Whitbread Co. of London also has a more stout version of their superior Whitbread Ale. Mackeson XXX is ABSOLUTELY opaque - even next to a strong light. The thin dark brown head matches a deep black chocolate fluid. While very potent is it not bitter nor crude. Its long lingering taste is crisp and always pleasant. It has an almost smoky transitional taste that gives way in time. Mackeson is the Port of beers with substance and real style. Here is a real, not as available as in the past it seams but a wonderful delight at all times.

Marston's Oyster Stout
RATING: 5.0
Burton-on-Trend, England
In 1997 the Brewbase (then just a computer disk sold as shareware and from our humble PO Box in Raleigh) considered it theBEST BRITISH STOUT 1997. This ultra opaque brown beer is made by Marston, Thompson, and Evershed, one of the famous Burton Ale producers. It is not made with oysters and is named for its popularity with seafood meals in that part of Britain. (What better combination than beer and oysters to get a man (or woman) in gear!). It is wonderfully malt-ladden, rich, and exudes a true sophistication so rare in the style today. It is moderately sweet and as one reviewer put it 'absolute nectar of the Malt Gods'. A few reviewers prefer a more fierce 'assault with malt' rendering of the style but all admitted the excellent craftsmenship evident in each lovely bottle. One gentlemen said 'this is one stout where the hops are wonderfully apparent and not masked over...'. A rewarding experience.

Mendocino Black Hawk Stout
RATING: 4.0
Hopland CA
This 'Special Edition' caps off the 15th year for this heralded brewery. We note their popular reputation although the bottled products we have rated so far do not always match their local acclaim. This dark beauty is totally opaque brown and has a tan head of average duration for the style. It is quite clearly assignable to the BITTER DRY STOUT GROUP but is far less rich and potent than a traditional IRISH STOUT. In short it is smoother for sipping though if one is not used to bitterish hops it could offend slightly. It bathes the tongue with nice maltiness but as we have already stated the hops portion of the flavoring is quite apparant. It is surely better sipping stout than your average dry or Irish style stout. A good food match would be essential.


Miller Reserve Velvet Stout
RATING: 4.0
When I first tried this experimental "macro-brew" im 1994 from a massive brewery trying to be otherwise, I was impressed and saw a bit of potential. Worldclass? Not a chance. Decent? Yes. This fourth product in the 100% Barley Draft Series was a real surprise. A real honest stout from Miller? (Can Budweiser Cherry Lambic be far off?). The color is positively dark opaque with a very large head of light brown color. The proof is in the flavor which is on the medium side - hence velvet. It is no creamy Sam Smith or brothy Sheath Stout but surprisingly good taste for the greenbacks. Warm it to 50 degrees as your supermarket is likely to freeze out the taste.



Murphy's Irish Stout i ds 4.0 450 Cork While Guinness is so much better known the 'other Irish stouts' (Murphy and Beamish) are well worth adding to any taste test. Like Guinness this comes in tall cans and claims a true draught pub taste - in this case the trademarked DRAUGHTFLOW SYSTEM. We liked the detailed chilling and pouring directions and the accurate warning that warmer cans may overflow. While Guinness can be overpowering and harsh (best if mixed to some of us) this product is far thinner. The nearly opaque brownness is there and also a dense head. Instead of being brothy or malty this stout is more crisp/weak/bright not unlike some German and American darks. It finishes very dry but not until one gets a dose of roasted smoked flavor. Respectable but not exciting.


Neptune Black Sea Stout
RATING: 5.0
Manhatten, New York
MOST LUSCIOUS DARK BEER AROMA 1996 Manhattan, New York, NY From Manhattan's Chelsea district comes this very opaque stout with a tan head of much size and long persistance. The aroma is one of the finest we've sniffed in some time - like an instant trip to Star Bucks on a windy day. Flavor does in fact overflow with coffee and light roasted smoke with a fairly dry finish. The aroma truly improves it and much of your room as well. It will easily hold it's own with dry stouts like Guiness or Murphy's though less potent than the former. It could easily be America's finest DRY STOUT as we offer so few micros in that form of stout; most being chocolate and sweet sorts. If you are a smoky beer lover the subtle smoke here will please you as well. It is highly refined sipping or dessert beer and UNQUESTIONABLY worth the $8.99 tab.


New Glarus Coffee Stout ds

New Holland Night Tripper™ Imperial Stout
RATING: 4.5
Holland, Michigan USA
Typically dark, thick on the tonque with a suitably tan head and low carbonation, this offering from their High Gravity Series is a serious dark drink of malty quality. It is very, truly good, maybe even fun. One reviewer said "maybe memorable" quite tonque in cheek! The 10.8% ABV rating is notable and one large bottle will tank the average small dude.  I admire it but don't love it in a way that might get me buying it over and over or for international guests. This is a curious formula to be sure because at mid-approach one gets some fruit, maybe faint raspberry notes. 

New Holland The Poet Oatmeal Stout
RATING: 4.0
Holland, Michigan USA
The stark silhouette of a raven against the pale sky suggests Edgar Allan Poe but I'm guessing they could get clearance to name a brew for him or the bird in particular. I know that ravenbeer.com uses his the great poet's likeness on merchandise and "The Raven" name. The brew here is medium opaque brown, the head light tan, and lasting. You get a refined balance of malt with supporting hops in the finish though it ends clean and neat, never tart or rough. Of course, the cruelest thing that might be said of such a brew is "nevermore" and I would say this one gets two or three more tries though I'm not a convinced fan yet. It gets my attention and admiration but for only as long as it lasts in liquid form before me. And to get the obvious out of the way, it's not "weak and weary" either but is a mid strengh stout of very good quality. The brew is refined enough to like but the marketing is a bit contrived and silly in the final analysis. It's a fine enough beer with dinner. Stouts are superb companions with peppery Fettuncini Alfredo and fresh blue crab sushi caught on tuesdays...actually I made that up. All beer styles are good with everything edible in fact. Go forth and eat well and swallow lots of suds. Then say something silly about why your chosen beer that night matches the thing you happened to have ordered...noting offhand with a faintly European accent that a "spicy Belgian double ale would be a VERY SOLID second choice".

North Coast Old No. 38 Stout
RATING: 5.0
When I first tried this in 1993, it got my choice as the best American stout I'd taste in that year and perhaps ever. Choices are better and more refined now but this still holds up like a coastal cliff against the oceans of reviewer's blogging and pontificating. This superb Californian dark is very dark reddish-brown but not quite opaque. It is delightfully full of chocolate flavor and finishes semi-dry and very smooth. We find it every bit as appealing as top British stouts from Smith, Young, or Watney. Purists might say it is too close to chocolate soda but we find its lack of strong herbal and bitter elements to be positive. It is very drinkable from the first sip. Just $4 per 750ml and worth much more! Silver Medal in Dry Stouts at 1993 GABF - the Gold went to Ugly Dog which most of us can't find in bottles.


Old Peculier e ds 5.0 261 BEST DARK ALE 1993, 1994 Since 1827 the Theakston Brewery of Masham Yorkshire has made this perfect dark traditional ale like those we seen on British TV programs. The initial taste has a bit of a bite like Molasses but the other flavors are smooth and complex. It is just as impressive and enchanting at room temp as when chilled. While it is not as rich as many dark beers it has a unique taste among labels in American stores. $7.50-$8 turns your table into a pub. 

Ommegang Chocolate Indulgence Ale Brewed with Belgian Chocolate
RATING: 4.5
Cooperstown, New York
Up until now this town has given us withered cow-skin gloves under studio lamps from baseball nobility, breathtaking autumnal maples, and Natty Bumppo. This 10th Anniversary offering in Belgian-style bottles is 7% ABV and actually uses cocoa powder in the brew. It has been classified on the web as a Strong or Dark Belgian Ale but the bottle itself says Chocolate Stout for those of you deaf, dumb, and blind and not able to taste the actual product. Dark Belgian Ale my ass! This fine bottle can be "cellared" to increase it's flavor and complexity of time - great beers should not be "fresh" as the TV commercials would want us to believe. The pour is traditional stout dark and dense, malts very full and the chocolate variety more full than most common stuff with chocolate in the name or website. In fact, most "chocolate stouts" have as much cacao, candy flavor as a Chocolate Lab in the rain. Is the flavoring dripping with the world famous richness and mouth-watering depth of Belgian chocolate? No. Is it a much better type of chocolate stout with more sophisticated and charismatic notes? Yes. The finish is tad bitter for me and two associates of mine felt the same - not all. This 2008 product is a "fine-tuned" version of their original 2007 offering. I don't know how much Belgian cocoa powder one can add to a vat before ruining it or clogging it up to hell - but let's give that a try in 2009! What the heck...add chocolate liqueor shots to every $15 bottle if that can be done. I don't know but this is a superb idea worth exploring over the next few years. I hope to explore it with them.

Otter Creek World Tour "Otter Mon" Jamaica-style Stout
RATING: 4.0
Middlebury, Vermont
The brew-firm's omnipresent otter has doned a rainbow-knit cap and dreadlocks for this curiously themed beverage. I've had non-THC hemp beer before and liked it, sort of. I've even given a run or two at things more potent including the infamous "Electric Heineken" which has one "trippin' for days" to quote the noted philosopher Thomas Chong. I'll explain the purple haze on the skunks later. I wasn't sure what to expect here until I read the informative label about Jamaican stouts. I scrolled up and recalled Dragon Stout from that country but it was never anything to write home about. Are they jerkin' my chicken here? No. The use of sugar cane to simulate a rum-like taste was nice but only partly effective - I'd have used a bit of the real thing. If an ancient log of fruit cake at the Dollar Store can taste a bit nicely of rum why can't this $5 bottle? 

Black malt among two others and British yeast were nice touches. If you love your stouts super sweet without beer stout soda, this is a nice pick. The sugarcanery tapers nicely into a medium malt broth which has a collar of hops for prettiness and appeal. The rum might have been too much to overlay here but I'd have given it a try and made this formula about Hawaii or Brazil and slapped the oily little critter in a grass skirt or soccer jersey. And it all comes from Middlebury, Vermont? Stay tuned for my review of worldclass fish tacos from Fargo, North Dakota paired with a superb Soldotna Gewürztraminer.

Pyramid Espresso Stout
RATING: 5.0  
Seattle and Kalama, Washington 
This microbrew is made using a 'rare black malt' to have strong coffee and chocolate notes. Color is very dark - very opaque with a brown head that lasts all day. If you tastes run to a very strong, semi-sweet stout (drier finish) that holds NOTHING BACK - this is your find of the year. We paid just $2.99 for a 650ml bottle and that is a superb steal. Reviewers here noted "rich, big head... simply sumptuous malt, coffee, chocolate, and herbal flavors in complete abundance" and "surely among the best American sweet stouts from the west...on par with California's best stouts".
 

Red Hook db (Double Black) Stout with Coffee
RATING: 5.0
Woodinville, Washington/Portsmouth, New Hampshire
This "Limited Release" in big five dollar bottles is from Batch 08-0410 in the broad style of an Imperial stout augmented with coffee for "big roasty flavor". Color is thick brown, opaque, lace light, leading to a giant light brown head of moderate duration. The bouquet is moderate malt but not enticing. The malt is deep at all taste points, coffee clear but not dominating, the end notes are dry, very lightly bitter, and overall silky in the finish. This stuff has grace and urbanity, almost a faux simplicity that begs for further sips and more analysis. The coffee and bitter hops are layered with supreme gentleness, quite perfectly so in fact, a real lesson for other brewers in laying out malt in quiet, lofty, effortless doses. It's more creamy than many cream stouts but it holds nothing back to attain this fluent successions of flavors.

I would expect Red Hook to offer a limited release with this quality but I judged it as it came and was prepared for a 3 bottle rating if they let me down. God bless them for not doing so and making my sudsy day off from work a numb, pleasant experience leading a unplanned afternoon nap. They did not abandon hops utterly to make a crude malt sledgehammer with no dimensions or parity of ingredients. This is truly brewing symmetry, things done right with scale and attention to the details. Red Hook products have an elegance, skilled builds all of them, and yet a sensibility that does not suit everyone. But they almost always please the informed beer drinker with a few hundred or 1500 (as me) bottled labels under or over their belt.

Ridgeway Lump of Coal Dark Holiday Stout
RATING: 4.5
Oxfordshire, England
For the naughty lass who deserves something hard in her stocking....okay I'll behave.  At 8% ABV this is a nice warming stout but like other Ridgeway seasonal products for the US market it seems smoother and less heavy than expected. Less heavy and not less good I must quickly add. It pours dark root beer brown but it has moments of translucency under strong light that few stouts will reveal. The head never surrenders and is light tan. The malts are rich, medium deep, almost like a dark German blended to a stout - and I assure you I've done lots of such curious blendings. It is a Dark Malty British Ale if such could be known without the baggage of the porter or stout tag. There is some nip, likely the ethanol more than hops but I get some sense of cherished vine in the finish after the bottle was nearly gone. This "liquid consolation" (self edit)(self edit)(self edit some more) is fine stuff and worthy of six bucks for the overflowing pint bottle. I sincerely hope to try all of their Christmas oddities this year.

Rogue Imperial Stout (2008)
RATING: 5.0
Newport, Oregon
The big, fat, pricey, and very impressive ceramic vessels here are about $14-17 a piece but the fluid therein is just as solid, fat, and impressive. It pours darker than a moonless night if the sky were normally made of dark Belgian chocolate. The head is one of the darkest brown shows in the beer world. The ABV is 11% and that is music to me eyes and buds. Malts include Great Western Harrington, Klages, Hugh Baird Crystal, Black, Munich, and Chocolate. Hops are Willamette, Cascade, and Chinook. Yeast is their own Pacman pick. "Imperial" implies something turned up twelve notches and not just the rich diversity that Rogue usually puts into it's shopping list. God Lord! This is a strong stout that drips with zesty IPA notes at mid passage. Holy...whatever. Malt is King and Hops his Precious Glorious Queen.

This approach is new, righteous, and worthy of a royal rogue. "Rogue Imperial" seems to mean, at least in this context, everything fun and potent and cool and neat, except the kitchen freakin' sink. Nearly choking and covering my face with vast, dark head, I sipped some more and found a stout so balanced in the eternal Hops:Malt equation one might expect it to be called Triple Imperial Barleywine or Global Thermonuclear Porter. Perfection needs no boundaries and this transcendent brew no nomenclature at all. The malts are not the only thing stout here, my pals. The hops are mighty stout and that vine is as tall and thick and climbable as Jack's beanstalk. Giants are falling. Awesome stuff. Potent perfection in a tall jug! A King of American Stouts and by my reckening a worthy judging standard for years to come.

Rogue XS Russian Imperial Stout
RATING: 5.0
Newport, Oregon
You can get an entire sixpack for what I just paid for this 7oz. single bottle in the Rogue XS line. You would not be as happy as I am now. It pours dark and yummy, loaded with favorite ingredients including RISK and DARE malts and PACMAN yeast. The result is a drink so excessively fine I will absolutely try to find it again. Wisely they have counteracted the lack of quantity with quality in both the flavor realm and the ethanol realm; the later a full 11%. Thus one might as well have 16oz. of 4.5% stuff in terms of buzz control. The diversity of five malts and four hops types is evident for the broth comes off not only well made but harmonized with the best acids, esters, and polyphenols money can buy. There is dark malty candy one moment, a bittersweet hop-sicle another, and then a somber fruity soup the next. This is the kind of fine brew that will win over wine snobs and you can point to your retail cost per ounce to make very sure they better love it.

Rogue Shakespeare Stout
RATING: 5.0
Newport OR
Oregon Brewing Co. of Newport OR makes an extremely opaque brown stout with a head as dark as their Mocha Porter but more finely foamy. It too uses the Crystal and Chocolate malts but instead roasted barley and oats come into play. The hops are Cascade and not Perle plus Centennial. We enjoyed it more than the Mocha Porter as it seems more focused on one flavor theme and is what they call 'earthy'. The rich heavy finish really appealed while the Mocha Porter proved lighter and tart. The hops seems clearer in the Mocha Porter. The all out malt blitz of this Stout was impossible to ignor. Whether The name is from the Oregon festival and a gimmick. This is as fine as any- thing from Samuel Smith or Youngs. One of the best stouts made anywhere.

Rogue's Wild Irish Stout
RATING: 5.0
Newport, Oregon
Oregon Brewing Company aka Rogue produces this very dark opaque brown beer that is visibly like their Mocha Porter. Both share Chocolate and Crystal malts and carry a dark tan head. Hops here are Cascade and rolled oats are used to impart 'earthy flavor'. The formula is similar to their equally fine Shakes- phere Stout which also got our 5 bottle. The overall drink is one of the most satisfying American dark beers we've tried in 1995. It is on the par with anything from North Coast or Anderson Valley. The painted bottle proclaims: Dedicated to the Dick in all of us. (No kidding). This 69 IBU brew has a slight fruity (maybe blueberry) finish that blends well with the malt and hops overdose. It is easy to mass consume. The bottle is most collectible. Since 2000 or so we mostly see the Shakespeare Stout in stores in place of this.

Samuel Adams Cream Stout
RATING: 4.5
The label describes this wonderful dark as 'richer and smoother than other stouts' and indeed it is. It may be the darkest, most opaque color in this datafile. The head is persistant and dark tan. One immediately tastes the overwhelming chocolate roasted malt. The charming flavor reminds one of some iced coffee drinks we have tried. The finish is smooth and not heavy like some British stouts. It is EASILY one of best dark American beers.

Samuel Smiths Imperial Stout
RATING: 5.0 
This worldclass stout is a shade darker and with a browner head than their Oatmeal Stout. It has more of a pleasant bitterness and brothy aftertaste than the Oatmeal. The initial taste has a bite followed by bitterness but the lingering effect is smooth but very persistant. This is perhaps better blended with a non-stout beer if served with a rich meal. Some folks prefer this to the Oatmeal due to the extra zip at first taste. Truly memorable.

Samuel Smiths Oatmeal Stout
RATING: 5.0 
This special dark beverageis a slightly redder dark than the Imperial Stout and lacks its initial bite. It is smoother and less persistant on the tongue and would make a better choice with some foods. It carries more of a molasses taste than the Imperial. As such it begs comparison with Old Peculier and Royal Oak although all are good choices. It is hard to pick between the Oatmeal and the Imperial but with food the Oatmeal seems more compatible. It remains a worldwide standard for the substyle that is Oatmeal Stout.

Sapphoro Black Stout Draft
RATING: 4.0
Sapphoro, Japan
The sculpted, precisely angled cans look like they just came off a computer-guided machine bench. This approach is classically Japanese; not happy to be ordinary, enjoying odd yet simple angles, century-proven designs and charm. One reviewer said the thick, heavy can looked like it could be a piston for the latest Lexus. Others noticed the unfamiliar pairing of the words 'draft' and 'stout'. (This is the perfect can for challenging a rival to crush against his skull; though we suspect not many of our readers still do that sort of thing). Color is dark brown but there are surely many blacker stouts. Head is tan and tall. Flavor is intense malty, very smooth, and decidely smoky. The finish seems a bit ragged and weaker. One reviewer wrote that it was like 'drinking beef jerky' and that illustrates the point that the smoke is perhaps excessive. Enjoyable but not world beating. Yet.

Saranac Adirondack Fall Stout
RATING: 4.5
Utica, New York
F.X. Matt of Utica NY has become famous for quality (and sometimes world- beating) beers at a surprising $5.99-$6.99 price tag (2005-2009). This stout follows their Black & Tan in the dark beer group. Color is very nearly opaque reddish-brown with a big foamy tan head. Flavor varies with temperature. Mostly it's 'surprisingly hop-filled for a stout but much maltiness prevails in the end'. As to the self-described 'crescendo of complex flavor' not all our reviewers agreed. Reviewers noted 'not as rich as my kind of stout' and 'more my idea of a brown ale than an Old World stout'. The finish can be a tad too bitter but there is no doubt abundant ingredients were employed. Overall it's a nice DARK version of their Pale Ale - not a deep malty stout but a nice value, more like a Honda than a Mercedes.

Saranac Chocolate Amber (Adirondack Spring)
RATING: 4.5
Utica, New York
This arrived in North Carolina the last week one January so I doubt it was anywhere close to spring yet in Utica. But I suppose the celebration of the 'coming of spring' must be marketed early. After tasting this $6.99 dark malty feast we said: WHY NOT SELL IT ALL YEAR! Color is dark brown - reddish under strong light. The head is big, lasting, and very tan. The flavor is chocolatey as labeled and its very aromatic as well. Calling this amber is a genuine misnomer. Overall it would complete with a DRY STOUT. Reviewers too noted 'good dryish stout but not as chocolate-filled as some stouts...hard to beat at the sub-$6.50 price' and 'the best of their dark beers...far ahead of Saranac Black and Tan if you like a rich malty dark'. Lacks a bit of detail.

Sheaf Stout 
RATING: 5.0
Australia
Carlton & United Breweries sends up these massive 1 pt. 9.6 oz. bottles that in our area sell for $5. The head is light brown and persistant. The body is positively opaque black against a strong light. The taste is rich but finishes silky smooth. It is more drinkable straight than Guiness Extra Stout and about the equal to Mackeson XXX which looks similar. This is truly one of the top imported darks and one of Australias very finest labels. In 1994 BrewBase called it the best Australian Beer Import of that year.

Shipyard Blue Fin Stout
RATING: 4.5
Portland and Kennebunkport, Maine
First of all we're impressed with the blue-grey and maroon packaging and engraved style ship on the label. It has a very classy Americana look. Your first pour of the stuff will likely result in some work of exclamation. It is as dark and inky as any liquid on earth. Even against a 100 watt bulb not one photon seems to get through. The head is amongst the darkest brown we know. Yet the flavor is not as heavy and rich as expected. It is fully malted with hints of chocolate and smoke. While fully-dosed it is somehow a slight measure (that's half a bottle to us) less complex than some others. Tried cold, cool, warm, and at room temp. it will still please. It's a natural for blending with their Export Ale too. Test against Anderson Valley and Rogue darks if you will.

Sierra Nevada 30th Anniversary Fritz and Ken's Ale Stout
RATING: 5.0
Chico, California
This bottle has two sides and two labels, one of them like SN doing a very classy gold on black Champagne and the other a ornate, dark version of their usual top notch graphics. Everything is about elegance, sharp arts, and tasteful splendor here. hereThis double or imperial stout is 9.2% strong and is named for guest brewer Fritz Maytag from their competitor and apparently friendly firm called Anchor. Maytag and Anchor are pioneers, legends in fact in American microbrewing and our rich brewing history in general I would say. Godfather Maytag founded the California craft brew movement and with Ken Grossman of SN brought super high quality ales to the US bottle market and from there established what beer guru Michael Jackson (not the creepy gloved one) would call the possibily and actuality that Americans can make beer as well as Europeans anytime, anyplace. I remember him saying that American microbrews from these folks and others were ABSOLUTELY as fine and in some ways more curious and creative. No doubt, no question. This is like Ferrari and Lamborghini doing a joint $200 million car with diamond dust metallic paint, carbon fiber panels made from real moon rock, and a shift knob molded from an original Faberge Tsar Imperial egg. 

The sierra30.com website tells the tale of the four brews in this series so far and I will be swilling all of them as soon as they come to my pike. This robust dark ale has visuals down cold from the bottle shape to the two remarkable labels and the actual darkness of the head and beverage itself. It is "worthy of the finest brandy snifter" as they hope and overall the mix of rich hops and intoxicating malts are judge perfectly with the decades of greatness these two Gods of Beer have created in all their other labels. The learned owner of my local brewshop said he tried one bottle and by the next day had picked up two more, a thing judged well for he did not want to deprive his customers entirely of thisof scorching, rare issues. I personally would have said "none for you riff- raff, it's all mine, mine, mine" using a falsetto Monty Python voice, "we may have something of their's later in the year...not likely...maybe not...move on now and grab some Roguuuuuueeeeee...". To say we needed a super fine, sweetish stout with all the zippy hops of Sierra Nevada is like saying orange juice is best made with fresh oranges. Why is this not obvious to others and why is a stout this brillaint a special, anniversary issue for EVERYBODY in question? Make it every day and make it cheaper - the entire world will be grateful and really, really happy. 

Sierra Nevada Stout
RATING: 4.0
Chico, California
The industry leading masters from Chico California always produce beers on the level with any in the world. Having found their Porter to be irresistible (and a favorite pick when stranded on a desert island) this one excited us. Color is 'no light brown' with a large head of foam. It is full with roasted malt much as with Guiness Extra Stout but with more carbonation and hops. Many stout fans will not be used to such a clear hops addition though maltiness is clearly favored. As with the Guiness it is too strong for some enthusiasts and can be preferred for mixing (black and tan) or treated like a DESSERT BEER as one would drink tawny port. It is far stronger than our recently tried Murphys Irish Stout. A few of us still prefer Cooper's and Sheaf where available.

St. Ambroise Biere Noire (Oatmeal Stout)
RATING: 5.0
Montreal, Quebec, Canada
McAuslan of Montreal makes St. Ambroise and Griffin labels and to us they've become the leading gourmet brewer under a red maple leaf; one that never does wrong. At worst they are very good and at best they stand out and enrapture every part of your tongue and brain. This $10 sixpack is one of the best stouts made in North America. Oatmeal Stouts tend to be sweeter and this very opaque beverage simply overflowed with roasted malt and carmel flavors. It was superior to us in a comparison to Sierra Nevada Stout although in fair- ness the SN is not intended to be a sweet Oatmeal Stout. While many stouts hit you with heavy malt bat this one stokes one more kindly and with honey.

St. Peter's Cream Stout
RATING: 4.5
Suffolk, England
I've already applauded these cool, round-shouldered, olive green "old timey" bottles for their look in glass and label. The look is old and classic, never tiring to me. The brew is as dark as coal with a dark tan head that goes on for half of eternity. The lace is shorter than this would normally indicate. The nose is malty bliss to the third power. Not all good stouts are are aromatic as this. While moderately tart the finish is smooth enough to earn the cream label though perhaps just barely. It is in fact a bit porterish at some stages in the unfurling notes; this mostly from the fruity, tart portion of the flavor profile. ABV is 6.5% so it cannot sold everywhere in the US. I found caramel, chocolate, weak coffee, brown sugar, generic fruit, and fig in the breakdown. Some trust friends I consulted thought it mis-named for the fruity tartness (acidity) and lack of comforting sweetness. I will not dispute those points as utterly invalid. It is no generic milk/cream stout in any case; being tarter, drier, and less silky soft in the finish. It is not worth trying cold so give it some time to "room up". In fact, I'd almost want to drink it rather warmish for it is most drinkable and easy in that condition. Judged in it's cream stout class, it fails on style and standardized comformity points - on it's own for what it is - and that is my judging style - it is a very fine product.

Sweet Water Happy Ending Imperial Stout
RATING: 4.5
Atlanta, Georgia
By their own admission on the label this thick fluid is "a huge dry-hopped stiffy, for a full-figured beer, resulting in an explosive finish". It's all about sex in beer world and here's more proof. So far the analogy is acceptable and clear to most lads. The pretty, prancing, tricolored fish on a wire is confusing the issue but it's all part of guy stuff and Sweet Water always has an aquatic species theme. Then there's the part of the Catch and Release limited seasonal series this belongs to; "catch and release" is a term some insensitive players speak for "use 'em and lose 'em" in the giant pond that is the modern dating pool. I'm not saying that we need to call chick-lib attorney Gloria Allred in next 90 seconds, but lord help the fellow who let his date swallow this thick, dark tube and it's pale foamy load and got even a little amorous without signing a permission form. I think "Third Base" is Section 1.A  Paragraph C.  Subparagraph G-9 and requires one to pre-submit a DNA sample (unfortunately not the fun kind) and sing the NOW theme song in the key of B major before putting paws on the prize. 

This award-winning stout is very tasty though not as deep as the GABF and WBC honors might convey. It is certainly more hoppy than most generic American stouts and the 9% ABV is a sensible benchmark to reach. Liked it and enjoyed it but being a seasonal rarity (one timer?), it's not too likely I'll get this same ending again. Moved on. There's lots more imperial, wide-mouths in the sea.

Thirsty Dog Siberian Night Imperial Stout
RATING: 5.0
Akron, Ohio
The dark label shows a very hungry-for-battle Rottweiler-Siberian cross with glowing lime green eyes in very subtle, artistic relief. The Grand-daddy of mean, tough dogs translates into the grand-daddy of stouts, similarly dark and brown yet also black and darker in some lights. IBU is 58 and ABV an impressive 9.7% as this four-pack rang up at 10 dollars. The GABF winnings of this label are notable - Bronze in 2003 and 2006, Gold in 2005. As the label tells us, these stuff is imperial but favoring the creamy side of the overall style; in other words, robust and aggressive but also bosomy and warming. Think of a large Rott that will thrash us to a bloody mass on command but a minute before or later is capable of tender nurturing and relaxed, submissive ease with her pups. We have fangs and we also have sweet caring in this remarkable, muscular malt-cocktail. Among the world's stouts this is a product of much distinction, roasted and toasted to perfection, hoppy enough in the background, strong in alcohol but not overdoing it, delicious and deep.

Tomcat Leopard's Tooth Dry Stout
RATING: 4.5 
Raleigh, North Carolina
Thom Tomlinson tells us this is a new standard or paradigm perhaps for the dry stout. This OG 1052 brew is very refined and very dark opaque brown with a big tan head as expected from the style when in skillful hands. It is indeed dry as expected and fairly smooth without being weak. In the DRY and IRISH STOUT classification one finds some very rich things (Guiness being one) and so we tend to like this approach: dry, rich, but very drinkable in some decent beer-craving quantity. At $7.00 or so per six it is certainly a finer value than most UK products. It has an emotionally potent label photo: 'shoot me or become a nice rare, juicy steak'. One panalist summed it up as "competant, pleasant, never offensive, polished, and yet not standing above others."

Victory Storm King Imperial Stout
RATING: 4.5
Downingtown, Pennsylvania
Opacity, color, and head are pretty much on standard, a medium malty nose. It has a good balance of flavors, the finish velvet smooth trailing into hoppy excellence. If you don't like a hoppy finish, go elsewhere. I do and think it's a good semi-bitter ending with total avoidance of sugary madness. Licorice, coffee, chocolate, more of the first than normal and nothing of honey or StarBucks sugar-brew. You get more hops, dryness, and bitterness than some of the style. It's got IPA in it's genes and bred to a firm, malty stout, we have a nice clever child. The 9.0% ABV dose is disguised well. It's certainly a good stout for a beer tasting for it's spun in a few directions that are wonderful for comparison and contrast to other marques.

Watney's Cream Stout e ds 4.5 395 BEST CREAM STOUT 1993 London Many people think of a British stout in terms of a DRY or IRISH STOUT as is the very popular Guiness. Stag Brewery's effort here is of the CREAM STOUT sort which is a sweet rather than dry dark. Color is positively and fully opaque. The head is very dark brown and can vanish at times quicker than desir- ed. It is pleasantly aromatic. Flavor is mid-strength tending to a chocolate malt theme. Reviewers noted 'a full spectrum of quality malts come to present themselves one by one' and 'disappointing in strength but not in character'. It is very much a 'big drinker's stout' as many other classic stouts from the US and Europe are too heavy for mass consumption. The finish while sweet can also provide a touch of molasses but not as full as old Peculiar.

Weyerbacher Old Heathen Imperial Stout
RATING: 4.5
Easton, Pennsylvania
First off - cool label. A black mysterious, windblow, heathen(?) character against a gradient-rich blue background with neon-like brand labeling. That 8.0% ABV tag got my attention as it always will. I didn't use my colorimeter but this may be the darkest, most opaque beer I've ever poured. Huge head that is a true brown; suede shoes kind of brown. Nose is malty, weaker than expected but okay. Flavor is rich, medium so, neither tart nor sweet. It's vaguely imperial in the usual sense - which usually is beer code language for "over the top", malted to death brewing. The finish is very smooth, nearly cream stout smooth in fact. The quality is there but it's really a mid-strong rather than an overpowering strong imperial offering. I like it still and think it's a very worthwhile product. It is not perfect nor worldclass but is highly refined and will not disappoint. I suppose "will not disappoint" is hardly quotable praise except in some lurid industries. Maybe that's where the "old heathen" ties in. This malty offering is very polished, restrained in fact, suave, and also reasonably priced in my experience. I would grab one in a bar most anytime for it will probably be the best dark beer there but in a supermarket or liquor store with 200-500 choices one can do better.

Weyerbacher TINY Belgian-Style Imperial Stout
RATING: 5.0
Easton, Pennsylvania
Wha.....ahht? Belgian-style Imperal Stout. I think my mind can imagine that but only after I've had a virtual brain drink of an IPA Red Pils and a second glass of Lambic Hefe-Porter! One is better than imagining and that is pouring down the alledged hybrid style down the usually noisy opening at the top of your body over a specific set of pink sensors. The "velvety concoction" is 11.8% of the good stuff with "bottomless roasty, earth, and vinous notes". Okay???? Bring in the wine geek for a translation or just pour it down and hope the alchohol inspires some lucid, smart thoughts. These fat, brown, corked bottles are never cheap and most of the time Weyerhaeuser...no wait...that's the forest and paper company...Weyerbacher almost always earns one's admiration and awe for talent.

The actual glass presentation shows something so thick, sticky, and black I am tempted to try it on that nasty, recurring leak on my back porch roof. The head is bumpy, rocky, rugged and a mid to dark tan. The nose is curious blend of bright fruit and malt - very good marks here. The name TINY is a big red letters and so they are already telling us it will taste neither neither tiny or with timidity. I let out an loud "ahhhh....ah...oh...ahhh", mostly of pleasure at first long drink, the ethanol coming up bolding but with pleasure. My first reaction with that of "nippy stout", all the dark, dank, dangerous, and delightful malt assaults of the world-worthy stout with a little Belgian spice and one "daisy cutter" delivery of our sacred, favorite molecule. We know Imperial Stouts for higher malt and higher ABV so where is this clearly distinct from some of those excessive but fun bottles of hedonism? For one thing, the whole caged and cork things apparently gives it good lacing but it's very hard to see unless shown under very strong light. The bright fruit notes which recede much to the malts are difference #1. I am guessing they use some fruity ale yeasts of Belgian or German origin. Diff #2 is a bit of somber Belgian spice that coats and amuses the tongue when you linger on the later, finishing notes. I am inclined to think ethanol-ginger but without a Mass Spec machine who really knows? One of my pals with lots of experience in beers told our tasting party he felt it was "crazy and strange as anything in the beer world...sometimes too schizophrenic (4.5 bottles)...but the best sips are heavenly with nectary esters and the best of the milk stout". J.P. said "this came out of nowhere and should be on every beer geeks radar for months...I'd say buy two or three bottles and sort it out later. I cannot possibly honor this kind of art with a single glass...even if a tall one...hint, hint". My final thoughts are that this is one of the finest US beers in 2010; an enigma to make WWII German scientists look like my local junior high cryptographers club in comparison. No where else will you find figs fighting chocolate arguing with Belgian musty yeasts and then smacking with bubblegum and slurping with Starbucks a mere second later. TINY is the King Kong of stouts and other stouts are mere Grand Canyons stuffed a hundred times into the gorges of the TINYValles Marineris.

Young's Oatmeal Stout e ds 4.5 412 London From 1831-1950 this London firm made this fine label. With new demand it has been recreated using malted barley and oats. It is dark but translucent and red with a very full foamy head. It must be compared to Smith's Oatmeal Stout which has a similar color. Both products are rich and flavorful but are not brothy and heavy like some other stouts. The Young's version of Oatmeal is a little bit more tart but has a more refined and long-lived head. Reviewers admired 'a certain Bitter ale quality at mid palate with just a faintly thinner finish' and 'I'd much prefer Watney's Cream Stout or Grant's Perfect Porter give the choice'. While some OATMEAL STOUTS are fairly sweet this one is well intermediate between DRY and SWEET style stouts.

STOUT - FLAVORED OR FRUITED
Stouts are widely augmented with milk, oatmeal, coffee, and even real chocolate. That's traditional and regular stuff. This section includes fruit and other flavored items

Atwater Block Cherry Stout
RATING: 4.5
Detroit, Michigan
A cherry concentrate is added to a dark 6-malt stout to make this opaque, slightly tart brew from Detroit. It's just 6.5% ABV so is very drinkable. The cherry flavor is quite apparent in the tart esters but they are not overdone. The balance is well-judged and better than most cherry stouts and cherry wheats known to me. Atwater Block Brewery is from Detroit's Rivertown District (hence "at water") and to date is distributed in bottle form mostly in the Midwest, eastern, and southeastern states. Their Dunkel won a Gold at the GABF is perhaps the most praised, talked about label to date (2009). I really enjoyed this stout and recommend it be served rather cold to keep the cherry flavors sharp and assertive. It beats the Bell's Cherry Stout by a mile and that too is a Michigan product.

Bell's Cherry Stout
RATING: 3.5
Comstock, Michigan
[Stout Cherry jokes expurgated by request of everyone. Insert yours here, slowly and with romantic-like kindness]. There was a time when $13.99 for a six of Stout had better be some rare British vintage. Today in early 2009 I happy pay this amount for an American six of stout; fruit-flavored of all things. Fruit-flavored beer of any kind is a risk. Bells I have come to love and trust. They are doing wonderful, noble, and classy work. Am I let down or fully rewarded or somewhere frustrated in the middle? The label is pretty with a little gree and giant cherries under it. This "mysterious dance of tart Michigan cherries [juice form] with the dark, roasted malts of a big and bold stout" are up for evaluation. ABV is 7.0% and that's a surprising, nice touch. It pours opaque as a chocolate bar with a short-lived tan head. Aroma is tart stout and not much more.

It starts tart, develops some complex malts, and then gives up something I suspect is Prunus avium in the scarlet flesh. I can't be sure and it's not authentic in my experience. Maybe Michigan cherries taste like gooseberries and rhubarb. Somewhere in the middle notes and many finishes things go muddled and ungainly; and several more un-something words as well. Cherry is a well known partner for chocolate for pungent tartness and rich sweetness improve each other. But in this form of choco malts the relationship is going odd places even though now and again interesting ones. An experienced stout-loving friend of mine (more than twenty years deep into the style) said he felt he was drinking a fresh-squeezed Vegetable Malt Beer. He nailed it! I swear I tasted an apple-spinach note somewhere one mid-late finish. There are elemental, earthy, tart notes all about but not all of them scream cherry; sour, sweet, or otherwise. I've tried cherry lambics, cherry wheats, all sorts of cherry ales and cherry lagers, and yet this expensive product from a noted, star brewer fails completely to convey the beauty and joyousness of the chosen, kingly fruit. This stuff is lambic tart but with none of the polish and complexity of that style; yet it almost has their price and thus sadly underachieves. At it's best it's has the tartness of simple cherry juice (the quality and depth of pulp being removed) merged with full-blown, dark-as-night malts. In fairness to Bells (whom I admire in other trims), I tried bottles from the usual temps to cold and back down to room temp again. Nothing got better or redeemable really. I feel like a Jack Lalanne Power Juicer and a Sam Adams commercial got screwed up on Fox computer, merged electronically, and now I'm drinking a malty-produce elixir for all the right reasons.

Clipper City Heavy Seas Mutiny Fleet Siren Noire Imperian Chocolate Stout
RATING: 5.0
Baltimore, Maryland
What a long name and that seems to be a trend with stouts and porters these days. The brew pours opaque, thick, and brown-headed as expected, the nose being malty and earthy. The extrAARGHdinary dark brew comes in 22 oz. packages and packs 8% of the active ingredient. The pirate dude on the label is a skull with bleeding hearts as eyes. His two crossed bones are held up by comely mermaids, one blonde, one brunette, and from their expressions fighting for his bone. Chocolate is used for flavoring so this is not just a "chocolate malt" in name only. The whole Siren Noire legend is akin to mermaid stories and in old tales these singing, pleasing ladies lured sailors off course and often to their deaths. This brew could easily be my ruination and yours but it is fairly hard to locate. The finish is all about true chocolate flavors and sweetness. One of our guest reviewers here remarked "a bit too much like chocolate soda for me...not that simple of course but it could be deeper". Another said "perfection in the choco-stout style...my bones and everything else were seized". If this were a milk stout - and it is very smooth, drinkable - it would be a sweet milk chocolate stout. Bitter chocolate hardly does much for a beverage so why not use a sugary, luscous form of cocoa flavors. This time around Swiss Miss has a tail.

Gordash Holy Mackeral "Mack in Black" Imperial Black Ale with Pomegranite Juice
RATING: 5.0
Melbourne, Florida
Brewed at Florida Beer Co. for Gordash this is one unique beer. Its' from Florida, porter-dark, flavored with Punica, 8% ABV, made with Belgian yeast, and features a yellow and black singing fish-lounge singer on the label. That's not going be confused with much else! Let's cut to the chase. The Gimmick or The Goods? The fact you're reading this in the Stout- Flavored section shows it's no weak fruit ale or a fancy brown one. Nose is all stout with faint fruit esters. The chocolate malt notes reign supreme and delight the mouth and nose in every good way, fully and with complex notes popping all around. Yet there's something more to this warming, welcome, consoling brew that gives it the real goods and makes it a unique delight.  Smoke is everywhere and if you like a smoky stout with divergent themes - this is your nirvana for the weekend. I would not have guessed pomegranite (a fruit I often cherish) and perhaps that is good thing. That fruit adds much to it but doesn't make it tart and awkward as in tries by other brewers with less skill. I am truly dazzled with their sensibilities here; not only in the nerve to conceive and launch it but to deliver the fully-integrated fluid so well. It's not so much Holy Mackeral as Holy you-know-what! I had not expected such a lofty mark from yet another cute bottle with an anthopomorphic creature in rich colors. Neither labels nor covers tell the true tale! You could put this in a fancy British bottle for $6.00 a clip and it would impress as cleanly. It's tasty, well bred (despite the singing smoked mackeral with spiked hair), and the kind of thing that makes beer reviews a constant set of new delights and thrills. This is THE Flavored Fruit Stout to make us believe in the style or the cause or the passion or whatever it is or should become in future years. Sip long and believe.

Star Black Cherry Stout
RATING: 4.5
Portland, Oregon
Everyone using cherries seems to add them to wheat beers or makes a lambic. This is one better idea. This is SOME wheat. Unfortunately there is no listed choco- late malt so that cherry connection is doubtful. The fresh Oregon fruit was added to a dryish stout. Color is very opaque brown with a faint cherry glow against 100 watt lamps. Head is tall and dark. The stout-ness is overpowering to the cherry part and frankly not everyone was convinced at first sip. The cherry-ness is certainly secondary to malt and conveys itself best in a very subtle tart way. Black cherries being blander than some sweet cherries may be the reason. Reviewers noted 'good double malt stout but fruit appeal is minor' and 'once again proof that the better stouts now come from the New World'.

WHEAT - FRUITED AND FLAVORED


Dogfish Head Festina Peche
RATING: 2.5
Milton, Delaware
The label says it's a "Neo-Berliner" stlye weiss fermented with peach juice. The label also says "malt beverage with peach concentrate". Boooooooo...Even worse....4.5% alcohol. I am certain the "malt beverage" tag is necessary in some states since it may not quality by all state's silly, ignorant definitions of beer styles. It actually get better for a minute. Color is hazy medium yellow with a strong lace. It cannot be a wine cooler with all that or can it? Aroma is weak. First sip confirms my suspicions. This a pseudo-lambic, having peachy tartness yet none of the rich flavors of the real "concentrate". Do we have here a wheat tarted up (in two senses of that word) with an acid fruit thing but having no depth, character, or complexity to make one admire it. I'm the wrong guy to pull this stunt on, having in my youth experimented with many beer styles and many kitchen ingrediants including coffee, spices, herbs, juices, and much, much more. I think I know a cheap additive blended into a basic style, ruining it in the end and serving only to create another item for the chalk board. I can put orange or peach or any other acidic juice in a wheat beer and get more interesting results. A lemon slice and average quality wheat beer would be better. Stay away.

Eel River Acai Berry Wheat
RATING: 4.5
Scotia, California
This "Certified Organic" wheat beer is flavored with the popular "health juice", a powerful antioxidant whose scientific merits remain open to question. Regardless of it's "miracle" rep, the Acai remains a tasty juice and makes a lovely pairing with this wheat beer. Acai is actually a palm tree (Euterpe oleracea), a close cousin to the palm from which "hearts of palm" are derived (Euterpe edulis). It's rich golden, carbonation furious(!), and head cream of some duration. It's just 4.0% so it's clearly "juiced down" rather than brewed with the fruit up front and designed towards the normal ABV range. Served very cold (and this is manditory), it's refreshing and nicely blended. I certainly find it more interesting than most raspberry wheats out there. The finish is tad ragged at times where the bitterness and fruit sugars are not as finely homogenous as in the earlier passages. It's respectable fun and a good value - just not a potent ethanol vessel.

Harpoon Ginger Wheat
RATING: 5.0
Boston, Mass./Windsor, Verment
This is the true ginger ale. Our popular, supermarket ginger ale is soda pop, flavored sugar water, a beverage so thin in real ginger it needs to be colorized and so weak in real brewing it must be artificually carbonated. There are some nice gourmet ginger ales now but sugar is always king and ginger their lowly maid. As part of Harpoon's limited 100 Barrel Series, this Session No. 29 offering is 7.0% ABV, 18 IBU, and augmented with a bit of honey, wheat malt, and lemon juice. It pours a slightly hazy gold with slow, long lace, and a Pils type, nearly pure white head of some size.

Fresh ginger is used and as a fan of strong ginger tea (which has anti-viral, tummy soothing, and many other properties), this is a strong recipe worthy of praise and attention. By the way, strong REAL 100% ginger tea (not some diluted mass-market concoction made cheaply), taken with ESTER® (stomach friendly) Vitamin C, raw garlic cloves, and a strong zinc gluconate drop like COLD-EEZE® is the best way to knock a cold or real flu out in 2-4 days - done it many times and went from the "hit by Mack truck feeling" (true influenza) to a clear head and ability to work in mere days. I cannot validate any medical virtues to this Ginger Wheat but it will keep you in a good mood from first sip to last drop. This is a very impressive offering, outstanding and striking the right cord in all flavor notes. There are those "change of pace" beers which merely amuse, puzzle, or cause one to think. This wheat beer is solid while others are merely curious renditions, entertaining while others remain unbalanced and discordant. Fortunes are made with "change of pace" beers you try one and their money is made - and we move on to better things or the same imperfect scam again with a new color combination of packaging or clevor names. If I fall again for another not-ready-for-primetime fruity wheat beer with some flying evil monkey or fluorescent colors or busty maiden - shame on me! Here is one new-kid-on-the-block that educates and broadens our horizons, all while satisfying and maybe giving a taught grin.


Lost Coast Tangerine Wheat Beer
RATING: 3.0
Eureka, California
I've wanted fruited wheat beers to use more exotic and better quality domestic fruits as soon as I tasted my first decent apricot wheat or cherry wheat. The options are and were endless and still remain unexplored. If Michelob can figure out that tangerines (real or imagined) are good for a beer, so should the bright microbrewers and then months before. The problem usually is this: 1) the wheat is too fake, weak, and entirely covered up, 2) the fruit tastes too weak or is too sugared, 3) flavor is artificial in an portion, and 4) there is some horrible food coloring that makes me think I bought a wine-cooler or flavored malt beverage by mistakes. Will I have a eureka experence from California or something belong to Michelob or Smirnoff or worse?

It flows in my glass a medium amber, hazy and thus yeasty and likely a true wheat? Yes...please send me a true wheat! The bottle confirms the floating glory of a true style in it's more flavorful form. First sip is almost like a citrus cooler, very tangerine full and authenthic but I had expected it to subside in acidity and potency towards a more wheaty or fruity-ale finish. Nope. The bright fruit of choice is very dominant and yet given the yeasty blur, one hopes they could marry the two well and wisely? The more I sip, the stronger the tangerine becomes and I cannot find the yeast and wheat they apparently put into the mix. One is a fool to make a pomegranate Grey Goose drink for the quality of the vodka is wasted and lost in such a strong presentation. Here too we have quality lost and covered up. I am sure they use all the good stuff but the smack and poke of good tangerine juice makes all the other efforts at presenting this as real beer a bit of failure. Turn that hesperidum down 6 notches because Michelob and that lot will always win if it's more about juice and less about real wheat beer. Porsche doesn't build the brightest red cars just some of best cars that happen to be red. 

Pyramid Apricot Ale
RATING: 4.5
Seattle and Kalama, Washington
This cloudy orange ale has a big head and some firm carbonation. It is based on their Hefeweizen (cloudy-yeasty wheat) beer with added 'natural essence of apricot'. The word 'essence' is often modern chem-speak for something close to natural juice but usually cheaper and simpler. It is not usually a good thing so some reviewers gave a demotion on that account. If you read our review for Kid Notorious Apricot Ale (full real fruit used) you may note how this fails somewhat. Flavor is rather tart (authentically so) but some tasters felt a touch sweeter theme would be nicer. The hops or yeast flavor balance was the main   reason a half bottle was deducted by most. Won the 1994 Great American Beer Festival Gold Medal in the Fruit/Vegetable category. Pleasing but can be improved.

Oregon Raspberry Wheat
RATING: 3.0
Portland, Oregon
This northwestern brew is one of a dozen fruit-flavored wheat beers put on the market this year. A recent issue of ALL ABOUT BEER (highly recommended reading) mentions such trends as the 'Snapple-ization' of the beer industry. Can a mint lemonade beer be far off? Color is cloudy amber with a big head and strong carbonation. Raspberry aroma fills the entire room! The cloudiness comes from being unfiltered (as is their Hefe-Weizen). But this self-described 'natural flavor' (rather than 'fermented with berries') is suspect. Like Naked Aspen Raspberry Wheat there is just 'too much wine-cooler faux flavor to  ever win over a true beer lover'. If I want this I have whole shelf of coffee flavoring bottles I can drip into a wheat beer. Coffee yes. Beer no.

  

Rogue MoM Hefeweizen (Ale Brewed with Coriander and Ginger)
RATING: 4.5
Newport, Oregon
Coriander is surely a traditional spice in a cloudy ale of Belgian style. It's the ginger here that places this with the fruit and flavored wheat ales. To the botanically correct, ginger is a root, a vegetable and not a fruit. (To those of you not aware of the horrors of real botany: tomatoes and peppers, though savory, are fruits). This ale is dedicated to "the mother in each of us" whether she be named Cori or Ginger or Hefe. The malts include Great Western Harrington, Klages, and Wheat. Saaz is the hops of choice. The color is cloudy gold, not as yeasty a I might have expected in a 650ml package, the lace very vigorous, and the head surprising white for this rich a fluid color. The coriander is subdued at first, stronger with more sips as would be expected. The ginger is noticable, barely, at first few sips, later a joyful and playful nip as the "saturation factor" comes to the taste buds. Being a big fan of real ginger tea and having done various versions (from soft, palatable cups for ladies in morning sickness to potent sticky brothes to maximum the root's antiviral qualities midst a full-bloom flu), I can appreciate their balance and restraint with the dosing here. The wheat notes are a solid quality presentation and very pleasant. I would like a bit more hefe-style fruitiness and yeasty punch but I can understand why they turned up the ginger in favor of those familiar German notes.

Samuel Adams Blackberry Witbier
RATING: 4.0
Boston, Mass.
Only the 'Marion' variety of blackberry from Oregon is used to make this wheat ale sing the praises of fresh fruit, the addition of spices and unspecific "natural flavors" as the supporting cast. It came from the Brewmaster's Collection pack of early 2009 and was stamped NEW at this time. Color is bright gold, faintly clouded, not floating yeast with a large off white head. Lace goes for a minute or two. The mix of grain and true berry fills the nose but the flavor is never as good as the sniff. It needs to be very well-chilled for it degrades into empty places and alternating fruit and weak wheat if warmed even a little. I enjoyed it okay and found it refreshing when iced up to near freezing but it was a let down from a firm so well known for very sophisticated recipes and getting things right. Perhaps the label is too new. Yet I am reminded they've done fruit wheats (especially Cherry Wheat) for ages and somehow the tartness and depth of flavor has yet to be dialed in with either. I do not want a purplish beer cooler here but neither do I want such disunity between fruit, acid, and grain as oft occurs at mid and later notes. The berry is an additive and not an interwoven part of the tapestry.

Samuel Adams Cherry Wheat
RATING: 4.5
Boston, Mass.
Many of the premium American brew houses seem to be tinkering with their wheat beers to come up with new products containing fruit, honey, chili, odd herbs or whatever. The boys at SA have taken their decent (though not ideal) wheat and augmented the flavor with cherry flavor. This is no CHERRY LAMBIC (a fermented and LONG-aged cherry wheat). In 1995 we rated this an even 4.0 bottles but in 1996 we thought it earned an improved 4.5 rating. The cherry flavor is as if fresh-squeezed or drained. The only flaw is that it lacks the complexity that more wheat flavor would have added. Reviewers remarked on "wonderful very well chilled as a summer refresher" and "nice balance and fruitiness even if a tad thinner on taste than I'd prefer". Blend with a Hefe-Weizen for a boost. A yeasty boost is very much in order.

Samuel Adams Coastal Wheat
RATING: 4.0
Boston, Mass.
This new 2010 product comes in six-packs and also part of the Brewmaster Collection boxes. It is classically colored, a faint bit hazy, and the head is finely bubbled and enduring. The whole "coastal" bit refers to the Lisbon and Eureka lemon peels used to give it some lemon flavor - a nice amount but not as much as most of my friends do with other wheats and dare I say Coronas. The later set only remain friends because they are female - just for the record. The wheat is not as strong as I'd like, nor deep nor inspiring. Wheat ales are not SA's thing when compared to what others stateside do with the ancient, honorable style. It is bright, luminous, made with a named-defined variant of a proven ingredient, and refreshing - that seems to be their only goal for charging nearly ten dollars. I would have liked more blaze with the haze, a richer wheat taste, even some yeast sediment, and turned up the lemon one or two notches.

Saranac Pomegranate Wheat
RATING: 4.0
Utica, New York
The cool brown Andirondack bear in sun glasses jungling pomegranite fruits on the label is nice fun. A basic (never grainy) wheat is blended with real juice from Punica granatum and the result is a semi-cloudy bear with semi-tart fruitiness and only moderate wheat taste. It might have been more tart and sharp in other hands but Saranac's approach here is restrained, making it more approachable and less like the beer cooler others might have produced. It is a meek, authentically fruit-filled offering, at tad simple when it might have been more complex wheaty, grainy, and intermeshed with flavor. That said, it's priced like those fruity, contrived Bud and Michelob inventions and this is galaxies above that hyper-accessible, affront-to-brewing, junk. Make that last word CRAP. This is real beer that is a tad off what it should have been but it's real beer - make no mistake in my comparisons. It's at the best when very, very icy cold. It is too Kool-aidish at warmer temps though not quite that sweet or tart. They failed to the extent is it NOT a true, rich wheat beer AUGMENTED by a wonderful fruit. It is fruit at the expense of wheat rather than balanced with it or complimenting it as it might be. I think fruit wheats are a very difficult thing to master and we do not have very many highly rated ones in this book. Sam Adams and the Wicked gang have some noted misses in the fruit wheat category. Serve this one as cold as an ice berg and it will drive away the malaise of that afternoon of hot, laborous yard work. One shouldn't have to do this but I sometimes do this to remedy a nice, affordable offering like this - I simply blend it 2:1 with a full German Hefe-weizen to boost those beloved yeasty, wheat notes. There's a book in me (or one of you?) about beer-blending and this is the type of situation when's it's both fun and practical. 

Saranac Wild Berry Wheat
RATING: 2.5
Utica, New York
This is a WHEAT ALE fermented with honey, undisclosed fruit juices, and those mysterious natural flavors. Color is amber with a lasting white head. Lace is rather strong for an American brew. It is an unfiltered hefe-weizen but is only the least bit cloudy.  Unfortunately it lacks either a distinctive hefe-weizen flavor or a rich berry element. The subtle berry-ness is okay if the finish was not so weak and dull. It's okay to be subtle if there are not watery places mixed  along the way. And it was surprisingly dry in the finish with anything with wildflower honey it it! Reviewers here were mostly negative: "neither a good wheat nor a good fruit beer...I'd almost prefer something too sweet than this"  and "love the bear on the label...sadly their worst beer I've tried."

Sea Dog Apricot Wheat Beer
RATING: 4.5
Portland, Maine (Pugsley Brewing)
Usually when I see "natural flavor added" we do not end in a good beer review. "Real fruit" or "natural juice" are generally prone to give a better result. In this case I am wrong. The nose of this stuff is pure apricot of the finest, richest, most authentic character. And miracle of all miracles: I can actually taste grainy wheat flavors too. It's extremely bright, light yellow (never gold), the ivory head long lasting, and lace moderate-strong. There are so few good fruit ales on the planet I am delighted they succeeded here and with such a worthy, overlooked fruit. I'm not sure tart berries always merry well to citrus-infused ales anyhow and so sweet, mellow, distinct, less tart fruits as the apricot are often finer choices. While not a perfect 5.0, this is the very finest of the fruit ales I've tried in decades. Highly recommended if you normally hate fruit ales and beer soda.


SLO Boysenberry Hefe-Weizen
RATING: 4.0
San Lius Obispo CA/New Ulm MN    
Boysenberry juice is brewed with a Hefe-type wheat beer for another interesting    variant of what is now called a FRUIT WHEAT. Thankfully the stuff is not    colored so it appear a cloudy gold with a near white head - of course that    indicates the berry content is modest too (as well it should be?). The flavor    of the berry is evident in the aroma as well as the flavor and is added    to augment flavor not control it. One gets a quality full wheat flavor though    not as completely as without the juice additive. Still it seems to be a    hard combination to tame. Many of us thought a less tart approach would have    been welcome though it is fortunately NOT sickly sweet; this is no honey, fruit,    wheat wine cooler. We'd welcome another try at it with a less sharp finish.

Tommyknocker Jack Whacker Wheat Ale
RATING: 4.5
Idaho Springs, Colorado
This unfiltered fluid looks like prototypical wheat beer but differs in the flavoring being from lemon-grass and not the traditional orange or lemon peels. Those of you who cook with lemon-grass (Cymbopogon species) know that this plant has a slightly different take on the citrus theme, containing citronella, citronellol, citral, and geraniol. Culinary and botanist types will argue endless as to whether the grass should be spelled as one word, two words, or with a hyphen. I subscribe to the system used in horticultural nomenclature where a plant that is a not a true thing is given a hyphen - in this case it is not a true lemon or Citrus species, thus lemon-grass. By the way, lemon-grass is not only tasty but it is useful as a antiseptic in pure form and in at least one species (C. citratus) has very real anti-cancer properties. I suspect this formula has limited health properties but this is not to say one could not brew their own recipe with enough of the grass to do real good. I really like this non-classic take on citrus wheat beer but the wheat ale base is not as full or present as it might be. 

WHEAT - REGULAR, KRISTALL, OR HEFE-WEIZEN

The majority of these labels will be the classic German wheat ales. Wheat can be 50% or much higher, given rich phenolic flavors with or without the cloudy yeast in the bottle.

Belgian Wheats are placed with the "Ale - Belgian - Golden" category above because they are a distinct style, very often spiced and least wheaty in flavor.

IMPERIAL HEFE-WEIZEN ALE (BREWER'S RESERVE 2007)
4.5
Pyramid Breweries, Portland, OR USA
These tall, rich golden glasses of wheat are made from 60% wheat are more hop-filled than expected. Flavor and feel are full but not overwhelming, the finish more assertive than a typical German label. The haze is a bit less than expected as is the lower lace.Hops come from Tettnang and Negget cultivars while the Malt is Munich 20 L style. The beautifully delivered dose of ethanol is 7.5% or more stiff than most German imports. It's competant and enjoyable without being great. Still with the price of dollar in the cellar, it remains a very good value (5/2008).

Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier
RATING: 5.0
Wiehenstephan, Germany
Here begins the standard in bottled wheat beer for the American palate. I may have been the first one tried in single bottle form or any form. It has everything: deephead, lace followed by more lace, floral notes built upon fruity yeast and stunning wheat, and a color that is golden perfecton. Occasionally one hears that one flavor overtops another by some slight margin or that the carbonation is too stronge. This is like saying a Corvette is prone to squeeling tires and a Rolls Royce has a distracting grill! The other notes are subtle enough, these being hops, bananas, citrus (identified all over the place), and general yeasty goodness. It is not sweet nor is it bitter - a good result for the style. Some will claim that Franziskaner is better standard while others swear by Pinkus, Ayinger, Paulaner, or Sailor. None of these are bad or weak or untrue to style. Back the car analogies - these are also Ferrari's and Lambo's and priceless wunderbrews. 

Abita Wheat    u    w    4.0    7            This American wheat from Abita Springs LA is medium golden and has a short-    lived head. It is closer to their Golden label than to a real German wheat    or even Sam Adam's stateside wheat. It starts with good aroma and finishes    clean but a bit sweet. About the only thing wrong with it is that it is not    a wheat in the traditional flavor. Called something else it would have earned    some 5 ratings among us. But as advertised it was a let down.        

Arcobrau Count Arco's Weissbeer
RATING: 5.0
Bavaria, Germany
Since 1567 Arcobrau of Bavaria has made superb yeasty beers. The $2-3 pint bottles are transparent enough to reveal heavenly yeast particles dancing with joy. It is the equal of Maisel's and Spatan's most cloudy wheats but    has a bit more pungency and zip than either. Carbonation lasts until you drink it. It is so rich and full that one might be tempted to blend it with another beer. On the other hand one is tempted to drink slowly - and less.         

Anderson Valley High Rollers Wheat
RATING: 4.0
Although well-made we deduct a bottle from the rating as it is misnamed. The    label confesses to barley malt in addition to wheat. This is really a NEAR    WHEAT as it is rather fruity and has only a hint of wheat in the palate.    It is touch duller and more wheaty than their Boont Amber. Color is a slightly    hazy yellow. Testing it with Spaten Club-Weiss and Franziskaner was a mistake    as this is not a true wheat. A nice beer but do not expect the German style.        
        
Ayinger Brau-Weisse (Helles Hefe-Weisbier)
RATING: 4.0
    471    MOST BEAUTIFUL BOTTLE CAP    Aying    The Brauerei Aying of Aying makes this yeasty beer with an artfully    decorated cap. The head is massive and foamy as with most good yeasty    wheats. It is actually 60% barley malt and 40% wheat and is less wheatful    than Edelweiss or Maisel with which is was compared. It is still very    pleasant and in some ways more beer-like to if you're used to German Pils.    The finish does trail off into a weak watery note that is perhaps okay in    a dry Pils but not for a yeast wheat beer. These PARTIAL WHEATS (sometimes    called AMERICAN WHEATS) are an interesting cross-breed but like many rose    wines it is neither superb at one thing or another. Retested in 1996 many of our    panelists prefered their DARK WHEAT (Ur-Weisse) version for fuller flavor.



Baltika 8 Wheat Ale
RATING: 4.5
St. Petersburg, Russia
The Baltika's are numbered and #8 here is a bright wheat ale with a lasting off white head. The shapely, angular brown bottles are shiny and distinctive. According to their website it is unfiltered but I only detect a faint haze. The "biologically active substances that are useful for our health" sounds like a promotion for the next Russian Olympic team but it's actually true. That's from the website. The FDA would shut them down if it made it to the golden label. Flavor notes at first are tart, citrusy, high quality. They progress into nice wheat with moderate fruit, apple and pear to be exact. It is not full hefe-weizen and unlike your average German product this is more notable for delicate and nice fruit flavors than wheaty grain. The approach is different and not bad by any means. I'd like to see a phenolic analysis some time for I'm sure it's profile would be very different from our western offerings.

Big Rock Grasshopper Wheat Ale    c    w    4.0    33            This unpasteurized ale is an attractive golden yellow with short-lived head    and long-lived carbonation. While the idea of grasshoppers and wheat are not    compatible at our feasts this sweet and malty brew is very pleasant. But once    again it is no wheat in the German and Grant's Weis sense - read: true sense.    I suspect the grasshoppers must have gotten the only wheat taste! Given the    merits of their Pale Ale this ale can be overlooked. We want real wheats!!!!                
Big Rock Magpie Rye Ale    c    wr    3.0    799        Calgary, Alberta    Big Rock has always been one of our favorite Canadian beers - easily on par with    the best of those south of their border. This one is sadly an exception. The    color is medium golden with a small but lasting head. It is semi-dry but overall    weak with just a faint rye flavor. It is 'barely a microbrew' and at nearly $9    it was quite an offensive experience. Whatever they do they need to triple    the recipe or brew it longer. A good study of the rye beer standards (Schier-    linger Roggen) is in order. The only reason to go near this brew is if you    collect artistic beer labels and want to pay $9 for six of them. A very sad    let down.    
Breckenridge Mountain Wheat Ale    u    w    4.5    883        Denver Co\Breckenridge CO\Dallas TX\Buffalo NY    This pale yellow brew with a short-lived head is surely one of the top American    brewed wheats around. It won the 1995 Great American Beer Festival Gold Medal in    the Wheat Ale/Lager Class. That is no small accomplishment but a few of our    panalists considered that like a Ford or Chevy being named Car of the Year    over Mercedes or BMW. In other words the local pride might get in the way of    recommending something truly better from Europe - Germany in both examples.    This wheat gets some votes we're sure just on the semi-sweetness alone    (sugar being a human weakness) but it does have enough depth of flavor to    earn our respect. If your wheat tastes run more towards the fruitful than    the rich and yeasty this may be your idea of perfection. Well worth buying.
Brewery Hill Cherry Wheat    u    wf    4.0    779        Wilkes-Barre PA    Master Brewer Leo Orlandini takes a WHEAT ALE and adds cherry juice and natural    flavors. The later additive disturbed some reviewers in this age of perfect    honesty and fully disclosed recipes. We gave it good marks for the cloudy look    and the big head that lasts and lasts. Near a bright light it has a very nice    cherry-amber glow that's hard to describe but easy to enjoy. Despite the    color is does not seem to have a Hefe-weizen yeasty base flavor. The cherry    juice flavor is authentic and very pleasant in this moderate dose. It is a bit    sweeter than some of us would like - 'too much soda and too little wheat' said    one. But overall its very pleasant and heads above the average fruit-cooler    beer of today's mass market. Yet it should be better - dryer, more wheaty.

Brooklyner-Schneider Hoppen-Weisse
RATING: 3.0
Brooklyn, New York
Two accomplished brewmasters, Hans-Peter Drexler (Schneider Brewery) and Garrett Oliver (Brooklyn Brewery) came together to produce this corked-and-wired, very elegant bottle that has more foil than than a dozen Alcoa factories. It is 100% bottle-fermented and the ABV ends up at a nice 8.9%. This "new sensation" from their cooperation produces a weissbock fermented with Schneider yeast then robustly dry-hopped with Amarillo and Palisade hops - in other words, Bavarian craftmanship plus American ingenuity.

I drive a Chrysler 300 that is part American design and about a quarter Mercedes engineering. I love this concept. The European 300's may even come with a Benz diesel. Such Ameri-teutonic hybrids are amazing in many industries - no, no, no I'm not going to call them Yankee-Kraut products - and here is one example that fails go harmonize and synergize well. My first sip was drenchd in ethanol and not impressive. Later pours were better mixed and frankly reminded me of a Golden Belgian ale minus the spices and fruit. Still I found the ABV too sharp and upfront, not shielded or hidden as it could be. It is quite bitter and harsh but I know many of you crave such extremes and truly reverence them. Maybe if you want a beer to punish your tastebuds like a drinking grain alcohol from a beaker, there might be something for you here. There was not enough of the flavor notes or complexity to bring me around. It was just relentless hops bitterness and ultra-ethanol abrasion from first sip to the very last. I found this more than over-the-top, something like a monster-truck version of a Porsche Cayenne in lime green, glowing orange wheels, with a giant Porsche logo in flames on the hood. The yeast flavors are now and again exciting but as one would expect vary with the length, timing, and quality of the pour. Perhaps the lingering dissatisfaction is because I like my wheats yeasty, fruity, and easy to drink, best if crisp, and not full of alcohol ONLY to justify the packaging, timing, and price. I need my Porsches (weissbiers) classy, lean, all-business, potent without being raucous, and frankly not Americanized for the sake of cooperation or what should have been a marketing coup. There is so much talent between these two brewers that they can and should do this over and with full redemption. This time, I'm sorry, it was just not there and is a hybrid not so much symmetrical as raw and monstrous.

The Bruery Berliner Hottenroth Weisse Berlin-style Tart Wheat Ale
RATING: 4.5
Orange County, California
These thick 750ml bottles look very European but are not. The tag "sour=yum!" is immediately intriguing and this bodes well for the hope of authenticity. The whole unfiltered, bottle-conditioned thing in brown tones is appealing without doubt. It is named to honor Fred and Sarah Hottenroth for reasons not explained on the label. The website confirms they are the founder's Patrick Rue's parents. Say what? 3.1% alcohol? But this should not be a shock or offense to those familiar with the true Berlin style as it is often a low ABV product and certainly one loaded with Brettanomyces and Lactobacillus culture. Consider this low ethanol normal and no reason for demotion or down-grading in any system. In Germany they may even add raspberry syrup or woodruff to it and sometimes balance the tartness with a pale lager. Ever add those first two things to your wheat beer, you American lads? Doubt it. So little do we know about European beer and traditions. I did not have raspberry syrup but a splash of blueberry pancake syrup was fun even if not terrible noble or manly. I know woodruff from my youth in herb gardening - no thanks. This ultra-hazy brew does benefit from blending and the German practice of blending down the tartness to taste with lager is not a bad one. I personally found this US version neither too jaunty or puckering so I did not need a blend. A sweetish beer would my recommendation for tempering and particularly one rich in malts - a Festbier would be ideal but only a small splash or two. Like it alot but not everyone will as poured. Modify as you will (sweet + tart = sweetheart) and with some variant on the theme you will come to adore it. 

Casta Wheat Ale
RATING: 4.5
Monterrey, Mexico
This bright gold ale comes from Mexico; exactly know for yeasty wheat dreams. Chunky, floating yeast is evident, it's quite fruity, moderately sweet overall, and with refreshing written all over it. There's a nice malty backbone. I have trouble for it coming in 4-packs for it fails to compete with most American wheat ales in the value arena. Still, it's very enjoyable and one should put Corona away forever as summer chiller.

        
     
Cross Roads    u    wh    3.0    530        St. Louis MO    Anheuser-Busch makes this new brew with 'unique color, taste, and aroma'.    The 'unique color' is just a cloudy medium yellow and the taste is simply    a yeasty-minty-fruity flavor. The boys at A-B have NOT tried to make an    American wheat beer but one reviewer described it as 'not unlike a simple    mass-produced Belgian beer'. It does have a few of those tantalizing European    flavor notes but unfortunately lacks depth, a strong finish, and the potent    alcohol content. To another reviewer it was an 'overengineered flavored beer'    yet 'for them an interesting new direction'. The head is decent and large.    This really is a crossroads for A-B. The potential for a very good 4-bottle    beer is here. At $4.19 the value is solid. Just turn up the flavor one notch!
Devil Mountain Summer Mountain Brew    u    wc    4.0    865        Cincinnati OH    This SUMMER WHEAT is pale yellow with a tall near white head. Citrus flavors    and spices are added - the later being distinct from other labels. It seems    more like a lemon tea sort of spicing than any we've had to date. It respect    it is quite smooth, soothing, and all those warm fuzzy words. A bright    blue label banner proclaims 'Limited Release' - we'll let you to think up    the couple of jokes or so that suggests. Reviewers noted: 'the spicing and    citrus as so well done (a mask?) that any genuine beer qualities cannot be    determined' and 'Crisp, refreshing, and all that good stuff as marketed...    I would add that it also charms and satisfies'.    

Edelweiss Hefetrub    g    wh    5.0    470    BEST WHEAT BEER FALL 1994    Salzburg    This cloudy wheat from Hofbrau Kaltenhausen of Salzburg has a very large    foamy head with high carbonation. It has merit equal to Maisel and other good    Hefe (yeasty-cloudy) wheats but is slightly less overpowering than Maisel's    effort. It is a nice balance that is also a tad sweeter and more fruity.    The combination of sweetness and rich yeast flavor is most appealing - this    is a perfect balance we've wanted for some time. Many may prefer its bright    sweet appeal over others but we suspect this degree of difference is open    to subjective review by comparative evaluation. Most of us will buy it    again when found. We'd  be eager to read your comments.    
Edelweiss Kristalklar    au    wk    5.0    479        Salzburg    This Austrian beer is light yellow with a tall foamy head and enduring lace.    The Crystal Clear (Kristalklar) of many wheat beers are weaker than the    Hefe or yeasty versions. Such is not the case here. While it is not yeasty    like their Hefetrub version (#470) is carries a substantial body of flavor    that in many ways is more pure and satisfying. This may be the best Kristal-    klar if you like a wheat that is truly smooth, bright on presentation, and    yet highly rewarding for wheat character.            
Erdinger Pikanlus Dunkler Weizenbock    g    wd    5.0    776    BEST DARK WHEAT BEER SUMMER 1996    Erding    We reviewed Erdinger's Dunkel Weiss (Dark Wheat) some years back and were not    very impressed. While this name sounds similar (in part) the product and reviews    are so different. The $3.59 bottles of 500ml size show a medium reddish-brown    color with a tan head of large bubbles. Lace is fast and furious. Flavor is very    rich and rewarding - irresistable to some of us! It has a sweet carmel almost    maple sugary malt flavor of the greatest sophistication and refinement. It is    positively the best SWEET DARK WHEAT BEER we've heard about. Some folks do not    like wheat beers (dark or otherwise) being this sweet. One panalist thought of    it as 'malt nectar from the gods'. That molasses-carmel flavor is almost always    associated with UK darks so a German one is a true surprise. Very memorable.

Erdinger Weissbeer
RATING: 4.0 
This classic wheat from a major player comes in large 500ml bottles and is distinctly   cloudy as the 'mit feiner hefe' on the label says - with gourmet or refined yeast particles. The head was almost too bubbly even with a careful pour and the bubbles are much larger than the Kristallklar variant. We were careful to observe the 46-53 degree F. serving suggestion but it proved inferior in flavor and complexity to both Maisel's Weisse and its KristallKlar variant. 
  
Erdinger Weissbeer Kristallklar    g    w    5.0    114            This white or wheat beer lacks the yeasty clouds of their ordinary Weisbeer    but tried side by side had a superior and more lively flavor. It was as good    as most German beers ever get but at $3.50 per pint we have seen better values    for consuming mass quantities. The carbonation was enduring and made it very    perfect in good crystal. It was very alive and complex at nearly all cold and    cool temperatures. It was please almost anyone who likes refined beer.                
Franziskaner Weissbeer    g    w    5.0    120            Their slogan in the US is: 'It's clear why its cloudy'. Cloudy and very    tasty it is! Compared to to Spaten Club-Weiss it is a touch hazier and much    richer in taste. That extra richness is best when you have one or two alone.    The Spaten is more drinkable in quantity although both finish somewhat dry.    This Bavarian treat lacked the stunning presentation of bubbles found in    Maisel. We'd say it is one of the best FULL-BODIED WHEAT BEERS. Memorable.                
Grant's Weis Beer    u    w    5.0    142    BEST WHEAT BEER MADE IN US 1994        Bert Grant spells his wheat or white beer with one 's' but it is double taste    delight. He recommends so wisely that is must be 'glacial' cold and can be    improved with a touch of lemon or fruit juice - the later being a risky ven-    ture for a $9.00-$10.00 sixpack. Color is deeply cloudy with a very persist-    ant foamy head. It is rich but less than most German Hefe-Weizen. I suspect    they don't use Cascade hops either. Very competant but so are many others.                
Great Divide Whitewater Wheat Ale    u    w    4.0    997        Denver CO    This won the 1994 Silver Medal at the Great American Beer Festival in the Amer-    ican Wheat class. It's also probably Judge Kenneth Starr's favorite in flight    beverage on flights back from Little Rock. Color is pale Pilsoid yellow    with a thin whitish head. It is surprisingly semi-sweet and does carry    a nice bit of ale fruitiness with it - a rich plum aroma prevails. A German    wheat it is not nor should it be compared to it. While the AMERICAN WHEAT CLASS    has often been a joke for watered down wheat-additive lagers this is nice    representative our country's name. Some beer lovers (experienced and some    not) were put off by some of the flavor components so opinions at your table    may vary as well. Doubtless it is better than most US-made wheats.
Hacker-Pschorr Dunkel Weisse (Dark Wheat)    g    wd    5.0    603        Munich    American store shelves are nowadays never short of quality German DARK    WHEATS (dunkel weisse). This 500ml bottle sold for just $1.99 and the    solemn portrait of Georg Schorr plus 'Since 1417' suggested high quality.    Experienced wheatophiles will notice the Hefe-yeasty haze and the large    persistant head as good signs. A fruity aroma is quickly perceived. Many    dark wheats are overpowering yeast-loaded drinks or odd combinations of    roasted wheat malt taste. This one truly excels with wonderful notes of    apple and citrus. However it must be served icy cold and poured with great    care. One reviewer dissented and suggested it was 'too filling and heavy' -    a small wine glass full might be enough for those new to this style.



Heineken Tarwebok (Wheat Bock)    ho    w    4.0    605        Amsterdam    Maybe the planets came out of allignment or the Federal Reserve did a rock    video today. We need some explanation for the externally golden and most    traditional Heineken company adding real color to labels and contents alike.    This microbrew-like product is bright amber but little head remains. Their    welcome effort has malt (and a little hops) but I doubt any German would    classify this as either wheat or bock. Probably they had Oktoberfest in the    marketing focus and as such it might find a niche - right color, flavor,    high price, and timing. If you put it besides Becks Fest at $3 less it has    no merit. If you love medium-deep malt-ambers it just might be your ideal.    Frankly we had more fun finding words or jokes in the name 'Tarwebok'.

Highland Cattail Peak Wheat
RATING: 4.0
Asheville, North Carolina
I like many things about Asheville. First of them is the cloud-diving roads to and from the town that will test any vehicle's brakes to the n-th degree. The second is the world's finest house or home, the Biltmore House; my hopes for the promised mansion in heaven thing. Third are the nice people there and then comes the architecture, stunning autumnal trees, and local crafts. The Highland Brewing Co. comes in the later category but I'd frankly rather have a pitcher of their stuff than any Biltmore House wines. This light yellow creation has wheat and a touch of rye plus "the tang and hue of Hibiscus". Lace is slow but ample. The name derives from a cool, refreshing breeze that comes down Mount Mitchell through Cattail Peak. Hibiscus eh? Not sure what they mean there. Being a botanist, I know that genus in many forms, some of them flavorful and others quite odd and bitter. If they mean blossoms (as with Hibiscus in herbal tea) one would expect rich red bloody color and bitter flavors. Color no, but the herbal bitternss is there. Perhaps I should write them and ask. It is not a straight-forward grainy wheat beer and indeed is quite herbal and bitter in a way the Germans would not prefer. Yet it is pretty decent. It is shockingly dry with very faint hints of lemon. You'll love it or hate but you should try it. Kudos for trying something new - wheat/rye/hibiscus. It will put some folks off for the bitter finish but I truly think they have something to build on - a bit like BIltmore's first year simple foundations.

Hirschbrau Hefeweisse
RATING: 5.0
Sonthofen, Germany
Color, head, cloudiness, and nose are stereotypes of Hefe-weizen but I found the first punch more carbonated than expected. The combination of tartness, fruit, and yeast delights were ideal from first sip to last, lingering notes. I never had a bad note at any time in all the normal cold to cool ranges. Citrus comes early, fading fast as the yeast gains full potency and then subsides into a easy, dry, tart finish. Spice, namedly clove, is lighter than what a Belgian (or the occasional German firm) would put in the mix. Fruit is "light banana ester" is the fancy reviewers usually phrase it. It is more tart and crisp than some reviewers have liked but I find it no object. It is almost an apple crisp beer without actual apple or long citrus flavors. You still that bright, alive, fresh stroke of a tart real fruit beverage and one I find very appealing glass after glass. One can make a case for Maisel, Tucher, Franziskaner, or Paulaner as more rounded everyday wheats but this more tart approach is an equally fine "take" or twist on the theme. I love them all and cherish their individual differences. (And to those flannel-clad fools who rate Shiner Hefe above this...I say this: cut back to 12 or fewer bottles a day. Sanity and regular bowels will come back shortly. And give mom a little cut of your stash money for rent. She deserves it. She probably spent $26 on Febreeze before Rev. Foley could come over that time you showed up late and stoned for the cheesy meatloaf.) Don't wish to end on that image! This H-W has an effectiveness, slightly different from the regular, laureate crowd but their approach is equally valid in this increasingly, dull, formulaic beer world. This is a refined, gracious wheat beer and sipped against the more available imports, it holds down the fort and then some. Not a sythe can slay this wheaty monster.

Lonerider Shotgun Betty Hefeweizen
RATING: 4.5
Raleigh, North Carolina
The thick, glossy label label shows a busty lass akin to Debra Winger circa 1980 holding a large black shotgun. She been have been a tad overendowed so hand a glass not a bottle to your favorite feminist. ABV is 5.8% so it is also southeastern state law friendly. It pours pretty classic for appearance though a tad more cloudy than average. The "rich banana-clove nose" is only partly fulfilled but the first sip will end any doubts about those being the flavors of choice. It is made very well, refreshes and thrills at most flavor points but I found the lace to be absent in all bottles tried. One expects that when cracking open the real thing from Deutschland. I guess Betty is not a lacy kind of gal. A good German copy, fairly convincing as such, and for once from the home town of your author. If Lonerider keeps this up, I may never make it to the next edition and you'll find me rolling in some alley near their brewery as happy as a soul can be.

Magic Hat Circus Boy, The Hefeweizen!
RATING: 3.5
South Burlington, Vermont
This "unfiltered and unfettered" American rendition of the grand German style shows fine pale yellow color, very little lace (I poured thrice), and yet the ivory head remains long and large. It's on the lighter side, clearly more of a sub-zero, serve with lemon, summer version of the style. In that trim it will never be a sipping hefe even if one can find any sediment at all. Was there anything to filter I wonder? There's room for an "American Light Wheat" in our market - I just don't want any. 
                                 
Maisel's Weisse    g    w    5.0    202            These thick 500ml bottles (app. $2.00) describe the contents as 'old classic    bottle fermentation'. Unlike Maisel's Kristall-Klar malt this version is dark    amber and cloudy like a good cider. Both Maisels sparkle with endless bubbles.    Flavor is yeasty plus 5.7% alcohol. It is sophisticated and well-detailed.    It bears comparison with many other German beers in large bottles which also    earn our 5 bottle perfection. The carbonation is greater than some others. This is one of my TOP 10 GO TO BEERS at all times and not a guest or friend or date will be offended. I usually call it the Mercedes of German Wheat Beers and that alone gets attention. Then one explains the healthy joys of yeast...and the hero praise will surely follow.         
        
Maisel's Weizen Kristall-Klar    g    w±±±±    5.0    203    BEST CLEAR/KRISTAL WHEAT BEER 1993        Maisel Brau markets this malt liquor as 'crystal-clear' and 'sparkling like    champagne'. It is a very sparkling beer and must be poured with the same care    as the much inferior Champale products. The flavor is rich and deep but always    smooth and refined. It tastes nothing like any ML we know and really fills    a niche by itself. We give it 5 bottles since it is satisfying without being    heavy and bold. 500ml bottles sell around here for about $2.00. 5.2% alcohol.             
  
Naked Aspen Raspberry Wheat    u    wf    2.5    632        Cold Spring MN    WHEAT BEER lovers are screaming about all those berries being added to their    favorite style this year. Sorry. Adding fruit to wheat beer is as least as    old as Belgian abbeys or maybe Eygpt.  And before we forget to ask: how's    your 'naked ass been'? Well this one is golden - not flushed pink or amber.    Flavor is natural not artificial here. The 'hint' of raspberry is not subtle    and there is no wheat flavor (German or American style) to notice around it.    While fruity-sweet most reviewers felt it was 'too engineered' or even 'a    horrible wine cooler imitation of real beer'. It tastes 'okay' but there is    nothing in the brewing art to show merit or craftmanship. Some said they need    to cut the additive down while others suggested they try the ripple wine biz.

New Knoxville Honey Wheat Ale    u    w    3.5                This rich golden beer clearly benefits from real wildflower honey. Indeed if    it can earn an criticism it is for the dominance of honey notes - one reviewer    called it 'honey soda'. The 200-year-old strain of English yeast is simply    not in evidence to the degree it should be. Pleasant it is but is this    an ale or a wheat beer. While the evidence is in the chemistry it is in the    flavor.                
North Coast Blue Star Wheat    u    wh    4.5    572        Mendocino CA    North Coast is known for a some great flavorful ales and one worldclass    Stout (No. 38). This wheat is a Hefe-Weizen (cloudy type) and the yeast    is abundantly visible at the bottom of each bottle. Color is medium gold    and cloudy with a big head (very German so far). Flavor is more fruity and    smooth than a basic German Hefe-Weizen like those made by Maisel or Spaten.    Nor is a your so-called AMERICAN WHEAT which is usually clear and barely    wheaty at all. Nor is it that fraudulent Hefe-Weizen named Crossroads    that is making a media blitz around the country. This is genuinely good    yeasty beer just a different yeast flavor that enthusiasts may come to    expect. Must be served very cold or its rating would be lower.



Nor'Wester Hefe-Weizen    u    wh    4.5    755    BEST AMERICAN HEFE-WEIZEN 1996    Portland OR    This is the American wheat beer we've been waiting for some time. It has the    flavor and character of a fine German cloudy-yeasty (Hefe) wheat. The yeast    flavor is apparently and strong (no watery so-called AMERICAN WHEAT here). A    tart apple-citrus appeal prevails though the finish is creamy and smoother. We    still prefer some of German labels for complexity and polish but as American    microbrew wheats run this is the best so far. One reviewer noted 'at $8.00 per    sixpack we can buy a German in most shops for about the same price...so is    this really worth recommending?' You decide. We couldn't.        

Nor'Wester Honey Weizen    u    w    3.0    860        Portland OR    From the high marks most folks give to their Dark Wheat and Hefe-Weizen we    had expected this to be another charmer. Sadly it was not. The brew is bright    golden with a short-lived head. Clover honey, Mt. Hood hops, and 4 malts are    used including 'a special honey malt'. It starts sweet enough but very    rapidly goes down hill to a fairly weak yet bitter finish. It lacks an real    ale fruitiness nor does it have enough malt or yeast (as with the Hefe-    Weizen) to help it out. So many breweries seem to fade on this style and no    doubt they think a little honey will improve a quick made, not-so-premium    ale or lager. Doubtless this style is tailored to the mass-market crowd who    may not always demand rich flavor. For us it merely lowers a good brewing name.

Nor'Wester Raspberry Weizen    u    wf    3.5    764        Portland OR    The majority of FRUIT WHEAT beers are CHERRY WHEATS or a Belgian-style    LAMBIC that uses a wheat as a base for long maturation. Frankly so many FRUIT    BEERS are so 'flavored up' and engineered it does not matter if a wheat    or ale base was used. This is one of the engineered kind 'with other natural    flavors'; wink, wink, nod, nod, know-what-I-mean. They do confess to using real    local raspberries and whole flower Mt. Hood hops. Color is semi-cloudy golden    with a very white head and big lace. The natural fruit feel is just not there.    It does BORDER on the beer cooler class but is of better quality. We think a    bit more tartness would make the fruit theme believable. For us it would be    much better to buy a German wheat and add your own juice fresh. Or not.

Oberdorfer Weiss
RATING: 4.0
Franz Joseph Sailer produces this Bavarian wheat with a very bubbly head and a cloudiness that is comparable to a true Hefe-Weissbeir. While far superior to most American wheat beers it lacked a bit of the charm we have found with other German wheats. High marks are earned for the Grolsh-style hardware but just a bit more flavor is in order. I suppose there is room for a wheat without the strength of Franizkaner but we're not sure who'd want it.                

Oberdorfer Weiss Dunkel (Dark)    g    wd    5.0    256            Seldom do we find a DARK WHEAT to be superior to a regular or pale wheat.    This is the case here. The Dunkel version of this $2.69 bottle had a huge    complexity of flavor that made up for the slight weakness of the regular    version. It had all the wheaty charm and hop complexity one could want in    a German wheat. Color was medium brown but it poured cloudy only in the    last half. It is the best DARK WHEAT one can imagine.                

Old North State Honey Bee Wheat    u    w    4.0    843        Youngsville NC    This light-medium golden beer has a near white head of some duration. The flavor    is 'American wheat' (ie. not German) with a distinctly honey sweet taste. It is    never sickly sweet like some honey wheats and presents a very authentic    flavor. The wheatiness is moderate but better than so many mass-market AMERICAN    WHEATS it deserves the higher rating. Reviewers noted 'sweet but not overly so..    refreshing but with substance' and 'bright and clean appeal but flavor needs to    upped a good notch or so...not on par with any German wheats I know'.            

Old Raleigh Honey Ginger Wheat    u    wf    4.5    724    BEST FRUIT/FLAVORED WHEAT BEER SPRING 1996    Raleigh NC    This North Carolina microbrew is made with fresh honey and ginger. Color is rich    medium amber with an off-white tall head. It is abundantly aromatic with real    honest ginger flavor - no artificial ginger scents here. Unlike most HONEY WHEAT    brews this one is not overly sugared up. They used the same good sense with    their ale. The only criticism is that there is not much wheat flavor to blend    with the relatively strong ginger notes; though we admit it is not the more    rich Hefe-Weizen (cloudy yeasty wheat) style. If you've ever had genuine    imported English ginger preserves (or made your own) you'll appreciate the qual-    ity. Reviewers noted 'welcome addition to the range of American range of micro-    brews' and 'like a natural ginger soda with alcohol...hard to miss with that!'.

Old Raleigh Raspberry Wheat    u    wf    4.0    822        Raleigh NC    Using fresh Oregon raspberries, honey, malt, and a wheat beer base the brew-    masters in Raleigh have produced an interesting ale. Color is lightly clouded    amber with what one reviewer called 'that mysterious glow that lets you know    fruit is in the works'. The head is surprisingly white and most persistant. The    flavor is clearly of the authentic berry sort with co-mingling of nice tart    and sweet sensations. Among the modern BERRY WHEATS it is clearly finishes on    the dry side. Given our feelings with Oregon, Naked Aspen, and Nor'Wester Rasp-    berry Wheats we are beginning to wonder if this style can be perfected with-    out full lambic fermentation. This does not convince us either but it seems to    be the best of the lot. Their Honey Ginger Wheat though different is superior.



Oregon Hefe-Weizen (Wheat Ale)    u    wh    4.0    651        Portland OR    Unlike so many American-made wheat beers claiming to copy the German style    this one is truly yeasty-cloudy (Hefe). That cloudiness translates to much of    a wheat beer's flavor and stylistic charm. As traditional this one has a huge    white foamy head. Carbonation is good but many German bottle-conditioned    kinds are more 'lacy'. Flavor is described as 'crisp and fruity with citrus    notes' and 'more acidic than most German breweries and tending very slightly    to a Berliner Weisse style'. The clouded color is also a bit more amber than    yellow. Some reviewers felt it was 'too sharp and tart' for sipping and as    such it would work out best sweet foods to mellow it. Like a Berliner Weisse    style a fruit syrup can be added directly. Quality beer but a bit extreme.

Oregon Original Northwest Summer Ale    u    wc    4.5    876    BEST SUMMER OR CITRUS WHEAT ALE 1997    Portland OR    Oregon's products have been decidely a mixed bag for us - ranging from mediocre    to some perfect five bottlers. This one uses natural citrus flavors and is what    many American brewers are calling a SUMMER WHEAT or CITRUS WHEAT. (our class    code is 'wc'). This one is decidely of the Hefe-weizen or cloudy sort and that    provides it much flavor above the average brews in this group. It seems more    cleanly flavored with citrus than some which add spices for an effect like a    lemon spiced tea. It has a depth of flavor (no doubt from the yeast dregs) that    others in general lack. Reviewers noted 'surprisingly fine product...still a bit    of lemon in a German Hefe would give more pleasure!' and 'so far the best Amer-    ican CITRUS WHEAT I've tried...fair price ($5.99) too'.

Paulaner Hefe-Weizen
RATING: 5.0
Munich, Germany
The grand old city's largest brewery has always sent some delicious beer to the States and this is no exception. Paulaner is one of those names (like Spaten or Maisel) you can always grab with confidence when buying a wheat beer. While    some cloudy wheats (Hefe type) are brothy or earthy or acidic-citrus this    one tends toward the sweet fruit side without ever being thin or light. It    is full-bodied but not overwhelming. Reviewers argue endlessly as to which    fruit or spice or whatever tickles when and where on the tongue. After 3    centuries the only analysis that we really need is that it's: 'just right...    an ideal blend that defies quantification.' Michael Jackson credits Paulaner    among those making wheats popular in the US. No other wheat is better.

Pennsylvania Penn Weizen
RATING: 4.5
Pittsburgh, PA
This formula is bottle-fermented in the hefeweizen style. Hallertau hops are used together with a Bavarian yeast which gives it what they call a "banana-clove aroma". Yes on the cloves but the banana is a figment of someone's fruity dreams. Or I could say a bunch of nonsense. Bottle sediment is high and contributes much with that perfect pour. In my city like 300 others worldwide, one can have a choice of a dozen real Bavarians in their thick, brown bottles and slightly ragged, foiled labels. Most decent American bars have at least one wheat beer on tap these days; even if a major micro with a little bit of compromise in the keg form. I drank this one over and over and poured the most yeasty glass possible to rank it fully. It is high quality, not as deep or idiocyncratic as some Germans, but better than a few of them and far above the average US-made Xerox of the old recipes. They have it nearly right and perhaps right enough for a domestic seeking to win friends and influence skeptics in bars across the land. Price had better be right and so far it is.

Pete's Wicked Honey Wheat    u    w    4.0    571        St. Paul MN    This pumpkin-colored beer appears to be a honey-flavored maltier variant    of his Wicked Summer Brew which we found wanting in character. This fuller    beer has enough malt and sweetness to please in a way we and they agree to    be truly 'refreshing' when very cold. Tettnang and Cascade hops and honey    flavor the wheat base for a flavor that is more herbal than wheat. One re-    viewer said it reminded him of a 'mystery Chinese herbal team of a dozen    flavors one neither likes nor hates nor has any hope of naming'. A very    traditional German wheat this is NOT.        
Pete's Wicked Multi-Grain Beer    u    w    5.0    775    BEST AMERICAN WHEAT BEER SUMMER 1996    St. Paul MN    Multi-grain beer? Can Wheatberry Raisin be far off? Actually this is a beer made    using barley, wheat, oats, and rye malts. The first two are most common and we    know of only one other beer using rye. Color is bright amber with a big ivory    head - no wheat color to be sure. Sniff deeply and you know something different    is going on. It has some of the grainy bite of Schierlinger Roggen Rye and    overall has a quality rich feel. Closing your eyes it might even pass for a dry    SEMI-DARK BOCK of German origin. Reviewers noted 'very creative idea...shows how    American brewers feel free to experiment and create new classes' and 'a darker    or even Hefe version would be even more interesting...great experience'. We    truly rate this a 'must try' as it's so unique and wonderful. Bravo, Pete!!!

Pinkus Weizen    g    w    4.0    280            Pinkus Muller of Munster is smaller than many German brewers and one can    expect to pay $2.50 or so for a suitably scarce 11.2 ounces. The brew is    a light but bright gold with medium-duration head. Compared to Spaten    Club-Weisse it has less wheat flavor and adds faintly fruitful elements. It    finishes rather clean and dry. From research we find it is just 60% wheat.    While pleasant and very drinkable we were not partial to PARTIAL WHEAT BEER.         

Plank Bavarian Hefeweizen
RATING: 4.5
Laaber, Germany
The German like to send over their good wheats in brown bottles that are thick and remind me of artillery rounds; and they probably could withstand a short from a gun as well. At 5.2% this stuff barely makes it unavailable in some US states. It won a Silver Medal 2006 World Beer Cup. The color is a surprise - very dark gold, vaguely amber in a dark bar, crystal clear and thus not cloudy a bit. So how is this a true Hefe- production? I looked and looked and though I saw one little thing floating in the bottom of the bottle. Still not convinced. Is it because American's don't usually appreciate floating junk in their beer bottles? God I hope this is not some dumb-downed product for us. It's a Kristall to me in any case. It's nicely fizzy, full of wheat, sound and prudent in the malt balance, and very pleasant when quite cold. I grade for what things are and not what they call themselves. It's not a real Hefe to me but if considered a Kristall it's magnificent. Also consider their Heller Weizenbock reviewed below which I consider a finer product but perhapd not so clean and refreshing when cold.

Plank Bavarian Hefeweizenbock
RATING: 5.0
Laaber, Germany
Like their Hefeweizen this stuff has few yeast particles of any note and is rich golden. Still you taste the yeast. It is a slightly richer, more fruity and sweeter version of the Hefeweizen, loaded with banana, tart generic fruit (citrus or pineapple perhaps), faint cloves or undisclosed spices, faint supporting malt, and with 7.5% ABV or about 2.5% more than the basic Hefeweizen. It won the Gold Medal in both the 2004 and 2006 World Beer Cup. I drink these all afternoon into a numb, happy sleep and not miss anything from a stronger wheat or more spiced Belgian that too is fruity and spicy as here before us. This is an enchanting German masterpiece, always pleasant and well-mannered, full of interesting notes that change with the temp of the fluid, and yet competent and more at everything from iced to ambient degrees. I don't see it often but one would do very well to seek it out and set it's position among the other choices. I for one adore and celebrate it and it has never done me wrong when served to demanding friends. 

Pyramid Hefeweizen Ale    u    wh    4.0    803        Seattle WA/Kalama WA    Cutely tagged as 'The Northwest's Other Famous Clouds' this brew is indeed very    cloudy. The frosted amber-golden glow is pleasant. The head is very bright white    and long lasting - though inches shorter than a bottle-fermented German classic.    Flavor is of the yeasty-citrus sort not unlike Nor'wester (our current best    American Hefe). Unfortunately the finish is a let down ranging from 'flat to    'weak' in written reviews here. It is certainly good but at $8.49 we feel it    should give even the German masters a run for their money. It is not even close    on that score. It is still very pleasant and drinkable but the price is a    big obstacle that prevents us from recommending it. A reviewer remarked 'tender    fruit notes, sweetish, refined but never rich'.
Red Mountain Wheat    u    w    4.0    292            This Birmingham AL microbrew is now more commonplace on southern supermarket    shelves in the premium American section. The package describes this brew as    'light and gentle' but 'definately full-flavored'. That is nearly right.    It is rich clear gold (a KristalKlar sort) and has no carbonation to link it    to German clear wheats. Compared to Adam's Wheat and most German Kristalklars    it proves a touch too gentle. Still it is drinkable and pleasant in quantity.                
Rhino Chasers Peach Honey Wheat    u    wf    4.0    773        St. Paul MN    Someone suggested the name 'Rhino Chasers Peach Honey Wheat' resembled a very    oblique SAT question on 'what word does not belong?'. You decide. This brew is    a dry wheat beer first and fruit simply adds to it. It is the actually the    least sweet of any beer named Honey we know. That can be good. The peachiness is    authentic and not by any means a bottled juice kind of scam. Color is cloudy    light amber with a lasting head. Reviewers remarked on 'high integrity as a beer    with sweet peach yielding to a bitter dryness...the finish can be ragged and    need work' and 'typical RC's high standards...believable as real beer...I'll    enjoy it again'. That finish was a bit off-putting for some but many of us    though it was superior to a syrupy one. 1-800-788-HORN for their fashion stuff.



             

Saranac Summer Wheat
RATING: 4.5
Utica, New York
SUMMER BEERS are usually wheat or crisp Pils (or occasionally ales) flavored with citrus and sometimes spices in the more Belgian blonde Single style. This one confesses to 'lemon & spice' like a favorite    style of warm brewed beverage. Color is rich medium gold but they boldly admit    the caramel coloring. It is surprising sweet for anything not stamped as a    'honey wheat' but it is not overdone. Wheat flavor is present but minimal with    what is now called an AMERICAN WHEAT; though we hate to use our country's    name in vain for what is surely the inferior style. It is tart and well spiced    to just the right degree. While not earthshaking it did prove to be very    refreshing (the favorite adjective of summer beers) and more delightfully    flavored than most CITRUS WHEATS. For $5.99 it is a wonderful value.

                 
Schierlinger Roggen Rye (Obergarig Hefetrub)    g    wr    4.5    609    BEST RYE BEER 1996    Bavaria    This is a BAVARIAN RYE BEER. We are putting it under the wheats in our    database for convenience as the yeasty cloud and flavor are similar. If    anyone knows what 'obergarig' means (upper something?) please enlighten us.    Until then we'll assume top-fermenting (?). 'Hefetrub' roughly means muddy    yeast but it is only slightly so. Flavor is fruity with apple notes like any    mild white or weisse beer but there is a sharper spice quality and a firm    dryness. Mr. Jackson notes the claim of 'first rye beer in 500 years' would    have to ignor the Finnish rye-based Sahti brew (Pocket Guide 1991: 60). The    color is reddish amber and far redder than any DUNKEL WEISSE. It is a valued    novelty but for all practical purposes 'just a wheat with a dry bite'.

Schneider Weisse
RATING: 3.5
Bavaria, Germany
This Hefe-Weisse or YEASTY WHEAT is sold by Schneider & Sohn of Bavaria in 500ml bottle-fermented form; just like about 50 others that reach the New    World. The well-known aroma, massive suds, and fervent carbonation showed    a typical form. It is a shade darker than usual for not being a DUNKEL or    dark formula. It also proved a shade more acidic than others causing some    reviewers to use the 'citrus' adjective. Yeastiness is moderate and it is    rather dry in the finish. Hefe-Weisse or Hefe-Weizen beers are a matter of    personal taste but we still find Maisel and Spaten products to be suitable    for a wider audience. Tested against Hacker-Pschorr Dunkel (Hefe-) Weisse    the H-P was in all ways superior unless you prefer a very dry ending.

Shiner Hefeweizen
RATING: 4.0
Shiner, Texas
This fine Texas recipe is "for every true lover of life" and is a bottle-conditioned, unfiltered hefeweizen with lemon and orange peel added in. The head is immense every after some minutes and color a mid yellow, almost golden but not quite, very bright in all illuminated positions. Lace is pretty long even if in slow motion. Very quality aroma; this is a sniffable brew to be sure. Even in the late pours and very meticious pours it was not as hazy as it might be; sediment being scarce for something unfiltered. Don't spare the filters folks and give us none of the glorious gunk! I'd shell out more on a pricery Germany yeast soup than settle for this approach which dashes hopes while still providing a very nice product. I put alot of value into expectation and truth-in-labeling. Not that they lied...it's just that "hefe-" and "unfiltered" are not realized as they should be. The citrus notes are there (a nice compliment but nothing special) but more as if one did a very quick squeeze from fresh fruit and in no way spicy-fruity like a Belgian recipe. As far as being a citizen of the hefeweizen range, this is more tart than most and that is more about the acidity than the peel of tart fruits. The finish is mixed at times, too watery in some seconds, too tart for another microsecond, mid-strength fruit but not of top quality, wheat notes far too faint, yeast still missing, and yet good things behind and coming up to keep one happy. Is it all wheat or just a wheat blend with some peel added? I tend to suspect the later.




Spanish Peaks  Wheat    u    w    2.0    362            From August Schell of New Ulm in Minnesota's snow country comes a $3.00 and    22 ounce 'wheat'. Color is pale yellow and the head is foamy with long lace.    Sadly the brewmasters got this one very wrong and out of the quality league    of their two ale labels. It is aptly named 'sweet water'. There is no wheat    taste and no depth of character. With a hot Mexican meal or rich French    cuisine such lightness might be worthwhile. On its own it tastes cheap.                

Spaten Club-Weissbier    g    w    5.0    365            This bright and clear yellow wheat beer has medium long carbonation with a    thin and short-lived head. It alive with bubbles at first and a full wheat    flavor component. In the US at least it should be the standard by which all    other wheat beers are judged. Among wheats from Germany we felt Valentin was    its equal but Maisel's Kristal-Klar might get a slight edge with a touch more    fruity complexity and superior champagne-style carbonation when poured.                

St.Stan's Graffiti Wheat    u    w    4.5    604        Modesto CA    Quick. Name a beer that comes in a dayglo pink packages splashed in orange    with a sky blue '39 Ford Coupe and 'Dont' Drive Drunk' on each label. This    Modesto effort is unique. Shelling out $8.99 for another 'American wheat'    without much wheat or any flavor is not our favorite activity. Fortunately    we were pleased. A German yeasty wheat or an American light wheat it is not.    Actually it would be best called a FRUITY WESTERN GOLDEN ALE as with some    Rogue and North Coast products. After a bottle or so you'll find the dry    fruity hops flavor most alluring. It is a 'hair' thin in the finish and would    be perfected by a kiss of sweetness (ie. Rogue). We recommend it both for    the movie/hot rod aesthetics and the soundness of the flavor components.

Star Raspberry Wheat Ale    u    wf    4.0    677        Portland OR    Star Brewing of Portland makes this ale usually some barley malts, wheat, and    Liberty hops. Fresh raspberries rather than flavoring (a common shortcut) is    employed. Color is a pale tawny amber and the head is mid-diameter foam. The    aroma is fruity but not strong. Flavor is much more subtle than some of the    flavored kinds (Oregon, Naked Aspen to name two) and there is more of a    real fruit tartness. It is not spicy like the nutmeg-enhanced Pete's Wicked    Winter, our overall best berry beer to date. Currently we rate in 2nd best but    most of us liked their Pineapple Ale better. One noted 'wonderful tart and    subtle finish...three cheers for resisting a wine cooler berry overload' and    'their comparison to a fruit-flavored champagne is about right'. Worth trying.
Steingadener Weisse Dunkel    g    wd    4.5    922        Kaufbeuren    Stay away from your German dictionary 'cause 'Weisse Dunkel' is only going to    come up as 'White Dark'. It is merely a dark version of what is normally white    or wheat beer - thus a DARK WHEAT BEER. This is of the Hefe or cloudy subtype    with an amber-brown color and off white head of some size. Flavor is full and    overflowing as we would expect from both the color and amount of yeast in    evidence here. But like many beers of this style it is too rich and filling for    some tastes - though simply heavenly and ideal for others. Still most folks are    not going be drinking 6 or more of these in one day! It is not so easy to    find this style in larger supermarkets though any microbrew-oriented shop or bar    is likely to have a brand or so. This is another of several fine choices.

Stoudt's Heifer-in-Wheat Bavarian Style Hefeweizen
RATING: 5.0
Adamstown, Pennsylvania
I'm not entirely sure the image of a cow in a field of wheat is appetizing but the joke is worth a momentary, mini-laugh. Actually not. I would rather have seen a smart cow with an Einsteinian wig and it called Heifer-Reason. Actually not. The color is typical but the head a bit thinner than from those thick-as-your-arm brown bottles from Germany. The first sip was...say what? The authentic, Teutonic potency and flavor are there in rich, unrelenting waves. [insert Panzer tank analogy here]. Unless they stole or borrowed or bought Maisel or Weihenstephan yeast, this quality of yeasty flavor would not normally be expected from a Stateside hefe-copy. Wow cubed. Even the finish was the right nip and potency and fresh, bright grainy delight. I have no beef with Heifer-in-wheat except for the name. If they could mass-market this stuff with a fancy, Old World-style label and that dumb German foil they'd give everyone from Seattle to Boston to Berlin a run for their hefe-money. The best American wheat I've tried in perhaps three years. Again...wow, wow, and super-wow.

Sweetwater Sch'wheat
RATING: 3.5
Atlanta, Georgia
I bought a 12-pack "Tacklebox" which says "this box contains some or all of the beers you see, depending on what we drank". That was a cute joke but still I hoped to a get of one of special items. No luck for $15.00. This "light-bodied wheat" is just that and the faint citrus pretty saves it from worthless-ville. It refreshed me well enough but then a cold bowl of dishwater might have done that also after two hours in the 100 degree sun. As a bargain wheat, it serves a purpose but given the higher-flavored, deeper choices at even the smallest store, this is one time try for me.

Terrapin Side Project Volume 3: Gamma Ray WheatWine Ale Brewed with Honey (2009)
RATING: 4.5
Athens, Georgia
For the record, the Wheat Wine Ale is essentially a Barley Wine but it should have about half wheat or more in recipe. These "Side Project" labels are one-time offerings from the big green turtle people using one simple goal: BREWING IMPROVISATION. This wheat ale is brewed with "an obscene amount of locally grown Tupelo and Sourwood honeys from Savannah Bee Company". It is 11% so that honey is going to have a sharp partner to dry it all out. The color is rich golden-amber, a compromised color but not always bright, the head cream and moderate in size. The aroma is frankly a classic wheat with perhaps a hint of extra fruit. The first notes are tart, fading slowly into strange but luscious flavors, not as sweet as I'd expected from the word "obscene", very smooth and very satisfying. It's rich but you don't realize it, potent with a velvet glove - or an invisible bee sting perhaps. It is a fascinating brew for a beer tasting and even among the 1000+ label experts you'll get some interesting responses. The concept of a wheat raised to 11% is appealing and all that honey goes to smooth out the alcohol except in the last finish and only after many sips. I think the lofty, late-arriving ABV thump gets in the way of it's excellence and 8-9% with some disguise would have served them (and us) much better. I'd have also boosted the phenolic fruit notes a bit for a more winey approach. (Of course I have no frickin' idea how to boost phenolic fruit notes with chemistry or brewing skill so I'm just wishing wildly here. Maybe more yeast a floatin' or some kinda Teutonic wheat magic. But 1400 labels deep into this beer review thing I'm going state my preferences and let them be what they are - a slight educated consumer's earnest wish). This is a very nice idiocyncratic beer, never one for your Bud Light friends, your timid mousy girlfriend, or anyone who has bought a beer cooler more than three times. (Legal notice: wine cooler purchases with the firm possibility, perceived likelihood, or absolute certainty of impending intercourse are excluded from all total values in this calculation). Then again real beer guys are not always keen about been known for anything accented with Tupelo Honey but calling it a Experimental Wheat Wine and all that cool Gamma Ray stuff should restore the Man Meter to your normal levels. This is 11.0 liter HEMI of the beer world; fun and dominating on the straight road but a bit awkward and sometimes a handful in the corners. I certainly plan to find all the Side Projects from Athens I can and consume them full and long.

Tomcat Southern Peach Wheat Ale    u    wf    2.5    899        Raleigh NC    The promoted 'subtle peach aroma' seems to be missing but the color surely    suggests that charming fruit. It oftened failed our WHAT-FRUIT-IS-IT-WITHOUT-    READING-THE-LABEL test. You can't imagine the range of ripe fruits that were    suggested. First tastes were sometimes negative (dry, bitter, thin) though    'taste bud lock' (saturation) did improve some opinions up to 3.0 or 3.5    bottles on the rating scale. (The Queen of Beasts on the label got a perfect 5    Claw rating every time). Basically we expect a LIGHT FRUIT ALE to have some    compensating wheat or ale yeast flavor elements if the fruit is not dominant.    None were found. Nor is it PEACH LAMBIC or PEACH WINE COOLER. This very dry,    mild beer is certainly not up the company's capabilities or reputation.

Tucher Dunkel Hefe-Weizen
RATING: 5.0
Nurnberg's major brewery exports a lesser known wheat in regular and dark.    Color proves to be bright amber or paler than many dark wheats. Carbonation    is alive as expected. Taste is moderate on the wheatful scale and is shorter    in flavor persistance than Franziskaner Dark. It is pleasant cold or just a    bit cool. One sample lacked the yeasty cloud we expected. Two later samples    proved very flavorful and cloudy from the first pour. BrewBase awarded this the Best Dark Wheat in 1994.             
  
Tucher Kristallar Weizen
RATING: 3.0
As expected the color is clearer than the Hefe-Weizen versions and the    head lasts forever. While quite flavorful it is not a pure wheat flavor    what one expects in a standard like Spaten Club-Weisse. Our bottles marked    'use before 5/94' appeared to be fresh but somehow the flavor was a touch    imperfect and confused. There were some metallic notes when tasted from    crystal, glass, and the original bottle. Stick with Spaten or Maisel.          
  
Valentin's Weizen Beer
RATING: 5.0
In 16.9 oz. brown foiled bottles for about $2.00 one expects a very worldclass beer. It is one of the very best. The hyper-bubbly head and light straw yellow color are typical of elite German beverages. The very rich and wonderfully pungent taste is close to the equally worldclass Maisel's Kristall-Klar which comes in similar indestructable bottles to the US. It could easily become you're #1 choice! It is quite different from Maisel's Weizen Beer in taste and body.

Weihenstephan Weizen Crystal Clear    g    w    5.0    401            This wheat is bright and very pale yellow with a quick head formation. The    flavor is full wheat with some of the depth (but not the cloudiness) of good    hefe-Weiss beers like Maisel and Echter. It is a bit more fruity and dry than    Spaten Club-Weisse and one would be hard pressed to pick the better of the two.    Like the Spaten product the head is short-lived compared to Maisel Kristal-    Klar. While it should be served rather cold it was pleasant at near room temp.         
      
Wild Goose Spring Wheat Ale
RATING: 4.0
From the makers of Sam Middleton's Pale Ale comes this seasonal wheat that    is actually very amber and with a lasting foam-topped head. What wheat taste    may exist (and some of us doubted that) it is overcome by full hops flavor.    This is not our idea of a wheat ale - spring time or otherwise! I guess some    people call these 'American Wheats' but using Grant's Weis as a U.S. standard    this effort is lacking and mislabeled. A decent amber ale but not special.        
       
Wurzburger Julius Echter Hefe-Weissbier    g    wh    5.0    408            As the prefix 'Hefe' implies this wheat beer is very cloudy - it even shows    through the brown glass bottle. For head and oxygen display it compares well    to Maisel's Hefe-Weiss that comes in similar pint bottles. It shares the same    exceedingly full and complex wheatiness of the Maisel label and is so distinct    from the crisper but equally superb Spaten Club-Weisse. This beer is simply    alive with taste and lace. A yeasty masterpiece and treat of the first order.                
Oxford Raspberry Wheat    u    wf                Baltimore, MD    Brewed by Oxford Brewing as "Maryland's Finest" this wheat ale uses    real raspberries in the process. Color is a slightly amber or reddish gold with    a good head and fine carbonation. The bubbles together with a dryish     finish somewhat support their claim of it being champagne-like. It is considerably    less sweet that most raspberry ales. They also made sure one remembers    it is actually beer and dosed the fruit with moderation. If you're with the    wine-cooler crowd this will disappoint. Otherwise it's a tasteful and refined    variation done with good sense.  

 WHEAT - DARK OR DUNKEL


Aventinus Wheat-Doppelbock
RATING::5.0
8.2% ABR is welcome in any German dark wheat. That's a plus to compensate for the price. The purple and gold label is something a bit different and kind of regal with that old dude in the central crest. Color is a dark brownish-amber to reddish-brown with ample lace and the resultant tall head. Malt and yeast fill the nose. The first sip (even if rather cool) is potent in those two areas. Light traces of banana, clove, vanilla, and hops give extra value. Warmed to the recommended temps, you get many diverse flavors that confirm it is be equal to the best of this style. Spiced-chocolate comes to mind. It's a tad like whipping up a blender full of German dark bear with some ginger snaps for flavoring; not really that wheaty of course. The higher than normal alcohol warms one but it does take away from things like some of the more crude Belgian clones. What I so much love about the style (unlike many Stouts) is that the finish is crisp and light enough not to ruin subtle foods. This label dates from 1907 but the style is much older.  It is something of a "stealth dark" in that the ABV takes you places that is not warned by the taste. That makes it a good date beer or does it?

Ayinger Ur-Weisse (Dunkel Hefe-Weisbier)
RATING: 5.0
Aying, Germany
Color is cloudy amber brown (your eyes can almost taste it!) and the head is deep lasting ivory foam. Unlike some DARK WHEATS this is NOT over-the-top in some thick brothy-yeasty way. It is fuller than their regular Hefe-Weisbier but turned up just a notch - that is, just right for us. The recipe is just 40% wheat (some are more) so one gets more flavor from yeast than the wheat it- self. Reviewers here remarked on its 'rich, full, but restrained...hearty yeast- filled treat' and 'prefer this to the regular or lighter colored version'. If you're a DARK WHEAT fan this is a must try. This was my favorite new dark wheat in 1999 and I've enjoyed it since.

Ayinger Ur-Weisse (Dunkel Hefe-Weisbier) 
RATING: 5.0 
Aying, Germany
Color is cloudy amber brown (your eyes can almost taste it!) and the head is    deep lasting ivory foam. Unlike some DARK WHEATS this is NOT over-the-top in    some thick brothy-yeasty way. It is fuller than their regular Hefe-Weisbier but    turned up just a notch - that is, just right for us. The recipe is just 40%    wheat (some are more) so one gets more flavor from yeast than the wheat it-    self. Reviewers here remarked on its 'rich, full, but restrained...hearty yeast-    filled treat' and 'prefer this to the regular or lighter colored version'.    If you're a DARK WHEAT fan this is a must try.        

Edelweiss Dunkel
RATING: 4.0
Salzburg, Australia
Hofbrau Kaltenhausen of Salzburg, Austria makes wheat beers on the par with any over the border in Germany. This dark version is more of a light amber brown than the color of a non-wheat dark loaded with roasted malts. The head is immense and foamy with endless lace. Wheat flavor overflows but somehow it proves a bit less satisfying than the excellent Kristalklar and Hefe-yeasty variants. Like a few other DARK WHEATS this one seems to get lost in the intensity of flavors and too much sweetness in the finish. It is cloudy with nice yeast tastes but is somehow just a bit off the mark. One reviewer described it as 'a muddle of quality flavors'.

Erdinger Weissbeer Dunkel (Dark)    g    wd    3.0    113            How can a pale beer be dark? When you add enough yeast and wheat to give it    good color. Carbonation is almost too strong. Even at warmer temps (up to the    recommended 53 degrees F.) it was no more flavorful than the regular Weiss-    beer so color proves the only note of interest. The Kristallklar was superior    to both 'mit feiner hefe' (cloudy yeast) versions by a considerable margin.    Like Michelob Dark this will not satisfy anyone who treasures a good stout.              

Erdinger Pikanlus Dunkler Weizenbock
RATING: 5.0
Erding, Germany
We reviewed Erdinger's Dunkel Weiss (Dark Wheat) some years back and were not very impressed. While this name sounds similar (in part) the product and reviews are so different. The $3.59 bottles of 500ml size show a medium reddish-brown color with a tan head of large bubbles. Lace is fast and furious. Flavor is very rich and rewarding - irresistable to some of us! It has a sweet carmel almost maple sugary malt flavor of the greatest sophistication and refinement. It is positively the best SWEET DARK WHEAT BEER we've heard about. Some folks do not like wheat beers (dark or otherwise) being this sweet. One panalist thought of it as 'malt nectar from the gods'. That molasses-carmel flavor is almost always associated with UK darks so a German one is a true surprise. Very memorable. Brewbase gave it it's "Best Dark Wheat Beer" in the Summer 1996 review.


Erdinger Weissbeer Dunkel (Dark) g wd 3.0 113 How can a pale beer be dark? When you add enough yeast and wheat to give it good color. Carbonation is almost too strong. Even at warmer temps (up to the recommended 53 degrees F.) it was no more flavorful than the regular Weiss- beer so color proves the only note of interest. The Kristallklar was superior to both 'mit feiner hefe' (cloudy yeast) versions by a considerable margin. Like Michelob Dark this will not satisfy anyone who treasures a good stout.Franziskaner Dunkel Hefe-Weissbier (Spaten)RATING: 4.5
Germany
While many of us rate the pale Franzikaner is one of the best wheats on the planet the dark variant is slightly below it in comparative worth. The head is cream and very dominant in glass. The color is rich, hazy brown overflowing with yeastiness and slight fruit elements. While complex it is not as inviting as some other where wheat, malt, and yeast are blended to more skillful advantage.

Franziskaner Dunkel Hefe-Weissbier (Spaten)
RATING: 4.5
While many of us rate the pale Franzikaner is one of the best wheats on the planet the dark variant is slightly below it in comparative worth. The head is cream and very dominant in glass. The color is rich, hazy brown overflowing with yeastiness and slight fruit elements. While complex it is not as inviting as some other where wheat, malt, and yeast are blended to more skillful advantage. This is almost liquid "comfort food" to the depressed beer drinker. You get lots of depth in lots of good stuff and just a single bottle will get your somewhere fine and fun.

Great Divide Dunkel Weiss (Dark Wheat Ale)
RATING: 4.5
Denver, Colorado
This lovely fluid is not German dark but is very much like a cloudy cider for color and clarity. They call it "lively" and from the 750ml bottles I poured it, watching it lace long and fiercely for more than 7 minutes. It has a earthy maltiness, subtle at first, never over-reaching or extreme, almost like a malt-cider if you will. Mild fruit meshes with the malt for a fine, very drinkable effect. At 6.4% ABV it's a bit stronger than most imports. The label says their own yeast is used for a different flavor (very true!) and overall they like to speak of the fruit flavors as banana and clove. Sticky banana for sure but it's dipped in malty Ovaltine if anything. I would not hesitate for a split second to serve this to the most demanding and skeptical German beer expert.

Hacker-Pschorr Dunkel Weisse (Dark Wheat)
RATING: 5.0
Munich, Germany
Great beer. Bad name. Sounds like a skin disease that computer nerds get from living twelve straight days in the dark on donuts in their mother's basement. American store shelves are nowadays never short of quality German DARK WHEATS (dunkel weisse). This 500ml bottle sold for just $1.99 and the solemn portrait of Georg Schorr plus 'Since 1417' suggested high quality. Experienced wheatophiles will notice the Hefe-yeasty haze and the large persistant head as good signs. A fruity aroma is quickly perceived. Many dark wheats are overpowering yeast-loaded drinks or odd combinations of roasted wheat malt taste. This one truly excels with wonderful notes of apple and citrus. However it must be served icy cold and poured with great care. One reviewer dissented and suggested it was 'too filling and heavy' - a small wine glass full might be enough for those new to this style.

Michelob Dunkel Weisse
RATING: 4.5
St. Louis, Missouri
Two German words on a Michelob label? What's next? India landing a spaceship with their flag on the moon? Alright, okay - that happened this last Friday? While I've admired Michelob's effort to product better beers, "near micros" as some people call them, at the "value-micro" price point, I've never truly respected one of their labels until now. True respect and real enjoyment was noted and six bottles at various temps over three days caused no change. I had to give them the more thorough "variable temp/three day test" to be sure I was not hallucinating or having tastebud saturation from better bears here. Before moving on, the label is a graphics showpiece, a visual gem loaded with burgundy, maroon, gold, and tan tones; great art matching a great product. . To predict I would not be thrilled by a Michelob product until it was a dark beer is not surprising though they could have done it with other labels if the care and intensity were as focused as here.

Color is mid-dark amber, lace limited, and head varying large to medium depending on bottle temp. Tart malt hits the nose and in the first taste we get true wheat beer flavor. Gravity hits 12.7 ABV is 5.5%, IBU 17. Perhaps they used an entire year's giant warehouse of ingrrdients for regular Michelob in a single case here - sorry, I should not abuse them. It's all praise and "please fix your other labels" at this point. I checked the bottle about twelve times until I was sure I'd poured from the right container. The flavor is rich malt, faint notes of banana, none of the cloves the website mentions, full-on yeast fruit in general, very smooth at all points (could an major American brewer do otherwise?), yet the finish is sufficiently full. It's a tad more tart than most darks wheats from Bavaria when cold. I knew they could do better, Kudos for pulling it off, and given the scarcity of dark German wheats in US shops, this might be a buy a time or two more this short year. Some reviewers and bloggers about the vast electronic beer cosmos are looking for an old major brewery trick - make the first release(s) very rich and flavorful and then cutting back on ingredients and quality later - as if old reviews and modern drinkers will not hurt them. We'll see and if the promise and recipe are broken, the cards will come down in my next edition.

Nor'Wester Dunkel Weizen (Dark Wheat)
RATING: 5.0
Portland, Oregon
This brew won as the best DARK WHEAT at the World Beer Championships in Chicago. Color is reddish-brown and semi-cloudy - far redder than any German one we have seen. Flavor contains rich wheat flavors but there is more of a carmel candy theme overpowering it all. One reviewer called this a 'DARK CANDY WHEAT' class of beer. A German Dunkel Weisen tends to be a maltier and more intensely wheat flavored version of their regular wheat(s). Some of them are rather rich. This one is decidely more sweet and coffee-like and thus very hard to compare to the traditional style. Reviewers commented: 'tasty and sweet...would make an ideal Oktoberfest offering' and 'more syrup than wheat...but underlying the carmel malt is significant depth and solid brewing skill'. This is one of the best dark wheats from the old USA I've tried. It's gone now.

Oberdorfer Weiss Dunkel (Dark)
RATING: 5.0

BREWBASE AWARD: Best Dark Wheat 1998
In our 1998 review of dark wheats on BrewBase, this was our best dark wheat from any country. Seldom do we find a DARK WHEAT to be superior to a regular or pale wheat. This is the case here. The Dunkel version of this $2.69 bottle had a huge complexity of flavor that made up for the slight weakness of the regular version. It had all the wheaty charm and hop complexity one could want in a German wheat. Color was medium brown but it poured cloudy only in the last half. It is the best DARK WHEAT one can imagine. The metal hardware and resealable lid add something to the price but is well worth it.

Paulaner Hefe-Dunkel Weizen
RATING: 5.0
Munich, Germany
The name Paulaner derives from the monks of St. Paul who since the 1634 made very strong beers for the residents of Munich. Besides commemorating St. Paul they are also known for Salvator (Saviour) double bock honoring an even higher figure and used for sustenance during Lent. What a life of denial and deprivation! After tasting any of Paulaner's brews one is apt to ask where are the applications for the THAT monastery - assuming we could have a couple of cute, young nuns to help in the brewhouse that is. Actually today they are quite high tech, secular, and take advantage of Germany's very best brilliance in industrial applications. Michael Jackson says they were among the first to use a refrigeration machine and a steam-powered turbine in their country.

This dark wheat is smooth and interweaves the tastes of full maltiness and cloudy, tasty yeast into every big sip. The head is large and enduring as one expects. There is a very wisely limited sweetness in the malt that pleases the tastebuds to no end. One would expect a few centuries to have made the recipe just right and somehow we get generous pints over here for under three bucks. That is what we call perfect respect for tradition and technology, keeping the flavor authentically excellent and the price very low. Ayinger is such a wonderful product but this Spring 2000 we give Paulaner just the slightest favor. It's maybe like Mercedes vs. BMW - most folks would be equally happy with either one.

Plank Bavarian Dunkler Weizenbock
RATING: 5.0
Laaber, Germany
Dark Wheats have always been a weakness for me for they are strong and malty but not always predictable things. Coloir here is dark amber-brown with a substantial head. Wheat flavor and tartness dance with each other and the malt remains restrained but more than sufficient to impress. I like this approach where they give you malty depth with some subtle, joyous approach that does not inflict one with horrible flavors or an overdose that keeps one sipping water at the restaurant between sips. This is a beer that needs no thinner or water break. You get a calm but polite approach to offering the malt. It is not inflicted because of what it has always been. It's malt and companion wheat flavors are presented nicely and yet firmly, generous, and befitting. It's a good dark beer to give to friend who has only had the crude, over-the-top, rough stuff. Plank Dark Wheat fits, niche perfect, it honors tradition, it warms, and leaves one thoroughly content at last precious sip. Their approach is very valid, time-tested, and most of all one you'll remember in a sub-category that has relatively few top notch competitors.

Samuel Adams Dark Wheat (Dunkel Weizen)
RATING: 4.0
This seasonal brew celebrates the beginning of summer and often sells out well before June. Like their regular Wheat it uses Weihenstepan yeast for a spicy depth. However this bright amber brew failed to charm us when tested from ice cold to room temperature. Like Weihenstepan's own dunkel weizen and one from Erdinger it was neither a great wheat nor a great dark. It is worth a try but Adam's Double Bock and Cream Stout were far more pleasing.

Samuel Adams Dark Wheat (Dunkel Weizen)    u    wd    4.0    315            This seasonal brew celebrates the beginning of summer and often sells out    well before June. Like their regular Wheat it uses Weihenstepan yeast for a    spicy depth. However this bright amber brew failed to charm us when tested    from ice cold to room temperature. Like Weihenstepan's own dunkel weizen and    one from Erdinger it was neither a great wheat nor a great dark. It is worth    a try but Adam's Double Bock and Cream Stout were far more pleasing.                
Samuel Adams Wheat Beer    u    w±±±±    4.0    319            This special beer is easily spotted by the red, blue, and gold foil label.    In our area (at least) it is sold out in about 2-3 weeks so it is very rare.    Using German Weihenstepan yeast (which also makes Gold Cup Export so fine)    they acheive a very wheaty crispness. Brewer James Koch also refers to the    almost clove-like spiciness' and this taste element makes it tantilizing    rather than overpowering. There is no better summer beer when VERY cold.  

Samuel Adams LongShot Weizenbock
RATING: 5.0
This 2007 experiment from Rodney Kibzey of Illinois has Bavarian values, a dark amber-brown presentation, and very generous head nothing less than tan. Aroma is malty but the first flavor is less malty and much more crisp. Toffee notes appear but are not saturated in dll malt. Sweetness, faint spice (clove), and fruit are notable and not what I expected even if dark wheats can the alert and fruity. The fruit intensifies with a second class and 'banana" notes as widely reported are confirmed on the palate. The subtle hybridization of German and Belgian styles is sometimes noted and there are certainly a few dark or double Belgian items which provide a framework for any review. Giving this is an affordable, everyday American grocery store item sold in those thick, fat boxes, one must be all the more astonished by this level of quality. This LongShot is a bullseye - is that too obvious? Sorry. Let's recompose. Razor sharp handmade arrow, Osage Orange bow hewn for months, arms of steel, eyes clear, no caffeine for days, and execution flawless. LongShots in sport take a second but this formula was refined over a long time. Similar result. This series is solid and enduring even if one of the winners is this good.

Steingadener Weisse Dunkel
RATING: 4.5
Kaufbeuren, Germany
Stay away from your German dictionary 'cause 'Weisse Dunkel' is only going to come up as 'White Dark'. It is merely a dark version of what is normally white or wheat beer - thus a DARK WHEAT BEER. This is of the Hefe or cloudy subtype with an amber-brown color and off white head of some size. Flavor is full and overflowing as we would expect from both the color and amount of yeast in evidence here. But like many beers of this style it is too rich and filling for some tastes - though simply heavenly and ideal for others. Still most folks are not going be drinking 6 or more of these in one day! It is not so easy to find this style in larger supermarkets though any microbrew-oriented shop or bar is likely to have a brand or so. This is another of several fine choices.

Tucher Dunkel Hefe-Weizen
RATING: 5.0
Nurnberg, Germany
Nurnberg's major brewery exports a lesser known wheat in regular and dark. Color proves to be bright amber or paler than many dark wheats. Carbonation is alive as expected. Taste is moderate on the wheatful scale and is shorter in flavor persistance than Franziskaner Dark. It is pleasant cold or just a bit cool. One sample lacked the yeasty cloud we expected. Two later samples proved very flavorful and cloudy from the first pour.

Weihenstephan Hefe-Weissbier Dunkel
RATING: 4.5

At first pour this German dark immediately strikes one as different. It is less brown than others, carrying a brownish-amber tint from the start. Wheat flavors dominant and there is a little tartness to round out the appeal. It is not fair to call this an Amber Wheat as opposed to Dark Wheat but that thought it not far off. It is certainly closer to their paler style than can be said of most other German brewers.

Ayinger Ur-Weisse (Dunkel Hefe-Weisbier)
RATING: 5.0
Aying, Germany
Color is cloudy amber brown (your eyes can almost taste it!) and the head is deep lasting ivory foam. Unlike some DARK WHEATS this is NOT over-the-top in some thick brothy-yeasty way. It is fuller than their regular Hefe-Weisbier but turned up just a notch - that is, just right for us. The recipe is just 40% wheat (some are more) so one gets more flavor from yeast than the wheat it- self. Reviewers here remarked on its 'rich, full, but restrained...hearty yeast- filled treat' and 'prefer this to the regular or lighter colored version'. If you're a DARK WHEAT fan this is a must try. Brewbase (then on PC disk only) rated it the best German Wheat in 1999.

Edelweiss Dunkel
RATING: 4.0
Salzburg
Hofbrau Kaltenhausen of Salzburg Austria makes wheat beers on the par with any over the border in Germany. This dark version is more of a light amber brown than the color of a non-wheat dark loaded with roasted malts. The head is immense and foamy with endless lace. Wheat flavor overflows but somehow it proves a bit less satisfying than the excellent Kristalklar and Hefe-yeasty variants. Like a few other DARK WHEATS this one seems to get lost in the intensity of flavors and too much sweetness in the finish. It is cloudy with nice yeast tastes but is somehow just a bit off the mark. One reviewer described it as 'a muddle of quality flavors'.

Erdinger Pikanlus Dunkler Weizenbock
RATING: 5.0
Erding, Germany
BREWBASE AWARD: BEST DARK WHEAT BEER SUMMER 1996

We reviewed Erdinger's Dunkel Weiss (Dark Wheat) some years back and were not very impressed. While this name sounds similar (in part) the product and reviews are so different. The $3.59 bottles of 500ml size show a medium reddish-brown color with a tan head of large bubbles. Lace is fast and furious. Flavor is very rich and rewarding - irresistable to some of us! It has a sweet carmel almost maple sugary malt flavor of the greatest sophistication and refinement. It is positively the best SWEET DARK WHEAT BEER we've heard about. Some folks do not like wheat beers (dark or otherwise) being this sweet. One panalist thought of it as 'malt nectar from the gods'. That molasses-carmel flavor is almost always associated with UK darks so a German one is a true surprise.Very memorable.

Erdinger Weissbeer Dunkel (Dark) g wd 3.0 113 How can a pale beer be dark? When you add enough yeast and wheat to give it good color. Carbonation is almost too strong. Even at warmer temps (up to the recommended 53 degrees F.) it was no more flavorful than the regular Weiss- beer so color proves the only note of interest. The Kristallklar was superior to both 'mit feiner hefe' (cloudy yeast) versions by a considerable margin. Like Michelob Dark this will not satisfy anyone who treasures a good stout.

Nor'Wester Dunkel Weizen (Dark Wheat)
RATING: 5.0
Portland, Oregon
This brew won as the best DARK WHEAT at the World Beer Championships in Chicago. Color is reddish-brown and semi-cloudy - far redder than any German one we have seen. Flavor contains rich wheat flavors but there is more of a carmel candy theme overpowering it all. One reviewer called this a 'DARK CANDY WHEAT' class of beer. A German Dunkel Weisen tends to be a maltier and more intensely wheat flavored version of their regular wheat(s). Some of them are rather rich. This one is decidely more sweet and coffee-like and thus very hard to compare to the traditional style. Reviewers commented: 'tasty and sweet...would make an ideal Oktoberfest offering' and 'more syrup than wheat...but underlying the carmel malt is significant depth and solid brewing skill'. I has been one of the finest dark wheats from American shores.

Oberdorfer Weiss Dunkel (Dark)
RATING: 5.0
BREWBASE AWARD: Best Dark Wheat 1998

Seldom do we find a DARK WHEAT to be superior to a regular or pale wheat. This is the case here. The Dunkel version of this $2.69 bottle had a huge complexity of flavor that made up for the slight weakness of the regular version. It had all the wheaty charm and hop complexity one could want in a German wheat. Color was medium brown but it poured cloudy only in the last half. It is the best DARK WHEAT one can imagine. The metal hardware and resealable lid add something to the price but is well worth it.

Samuel Adams Dark Wheat (Dunkel Weizen)
RATING: 4.0
This seasonal brew celebrates the beginning of summer and often sells out well before June. Like their regular Wheat it uses Weihenstepan yeast for a spicy depth. However this bright amber brew failed to charm us when tested from ice cold to room temperature. Like Weihenstepan's own dunkel weizen and one from Erdinger it was neither a great wheat nor a great dark. It is worth a try but Adam's Double Bock and Cream Stout were far more pleasing.

Steingadener Weisse Dunkel
RATING: 4.5
Kaufbeuren, Germany
Stay away from your German dictionary 'cause 'Weisse Dunkel' is only going to come up as 'White Dark'. It is merely a dark version of what is normally white or wheat beer - thus a DARK WHEAT BEER. This is of the Hefe or cloudy subtype with an amber-brown color and off white head of some size. Flavor is full and overflowing as we would expect from both the color and amount of yeast in evidence here. But like many beers of this style it is too rich and filling for some tastes - though simply heavenly and ideal for others. Still most folks are not going be drinking 6 or more of these in one day! It is not so easy to find this style in larger supermarkets though any microbrew-oriented shop or bar is likely to have a brand or so. This is another of several fine choices.

Tucher Dunkel Hefe-Weizen
RATING: 5.0
Nurnberg, Germany
Nurnberg's major brewery exports a lesser known wheat in regular and dark. Color proves to be bright amber or paler than many dark wheats. Carbonation is alive as expected. Taste is moderate on the wheatful scale and is shorter in flavor persistance than Franziskaner Dark. It is pleasant cold or just a bit cool. One sample lacked the yeasty cloud we expected. Two later samples proved very flavorful and cloudy from the first pour. I've enjoyed this beer many times since 1994 and in that year of learning new German beers it was my favorite dark wheat. It's my favorite almost every other time too.

Weihenstephan Hefe-Weissbier Dunkel
RATING: 4.5
Germany
At first pour this German dark immediately strikes one as different. It is less brown than others, carrying a brownish-amber tint from the start. Wheat flavors dominant and there is a little tartness to round out the appeal. It is not fair to call this an Amber Wheat as opposed to Dark Wheat but that thought it not far off. It is certainly closer to their paler style than can be said of most other German brewers.

Weyerbacher Slam Dunkel Double Dunkelweizen Ale 
RATING: 5.0
Easton, Pennsylvania
I guess the name Doppel-Dunkel sounded stupid. I used to mock these clever beer names but as I approach 50 years on this earth they strangely amuse me more and more each day. I give the Weyerbacher guys a good bit of freedom because their label kinda looks like an old Soviet logo with a firm, angular white hand and arm slamming a hammer down amid a crown on wheat sheaths. The radiating background sun theme sells it to this point. ABV is 7.0% and it pours to the glass in dark brownish-amber, far from the opacity the bottle indicated and what I'd expect from the name. The head disappeared on me quickly but frankly I care about the stuff that hits my tongue more than those transcient aesthetics. It was first pioneered in 2007 and so popular it came into the regular rotation. Chris Wilson, Head Brewer is author of this recipe.

First sip? What the hell! I cannot place anything but some strange, alien malt flavors and about three fruits not known to my horticulturally-trained senses. Let's try more sips and do it more slowly. This is crazy, fun, and new territory. There's some apple, carmelized apple even. Another two sips. Good banana in the finish but lots of things coming atop it quickly. The phenols and esters are enough to send any Mass Spec machine into overload or a blue-screen-of-death. Malty-banana is one summar but there is more. More sips and some swishes mouthwash style. Faint spices, maybe clove but I'm sure they're not telling us. Their website mentions the use of the glorious Weinstephaner yeast and that is a scrumptious, oh so good addition. The net stuff also confesses to cloves. Sweetness shifts from moderate to low, variable with the portion and number of previous doses. The sweet fruit-malt increases with time into the bottle(s). This is quality chemical soup and I mean in the best possible sense like what you get with an aged Port or one of those frozen grocery store tubs full of worldclass New England clam chowder that cost $14 a person. I checked the usual beer review sites and reviews from the experienced folks were everything from A to C - that tells me they have either a brilliant broth or a crazy one. Weyerbacher is out there on the microbrew edge, very accompished at times and other times experimental to the point of being hard to place. I like them and will always try their new stuff.