For many forms of propogation, the glass technique above is the best way to cause the roots to form. This technique can also be done when starting seedlings to aid the soil in staying moist without always having to check it. I have found that when doing several plants or several seed cups the easiest way to lock in moisture in the plants or soil is by making a miniature greenhouse. There are many kits sold on the market today that do just that, make small greenhouses. But, I guarantee that at some point in your grocery shopping, you've bought one. Here's how I make mine: Take the cover (top and bottom) from a store bought cake (square, round or rectangular) that has been washed out and is clean. Start your plants or seeds. Now, water the plants, and pour a small amount of water into the bottom of the cake box. Set the plants inside and close the lid (snapping it shut all the way around). And, you just made a miniature greenhouse. This can also be done with doughnut boxes provided that both top and bottom are plastic.

Cacti will produce flowers that, after pollination by insects, will produce either dry seeds or fleshy berries. These berries (containing the seed) will need to be dried out before planting. These seeds will remain viable for years.

Start seeds in a mixture of about 75% perlite or vermiculite and 25% sand or the specially prepared growing medium for cacti and succulents. If you are planting a large number of seeds, use a standard nursery flat. Label the seeds so that you know which species are growing where. After seeds have been planted to a depth of about 1/4 inch, spray or mist the surface of the soil (growing medium). Cover the flat with a sheet of clear glass or plastic to retain moisture during the first few weeks of germination. Place the flat in a location that gets plenty of light. Do not allow the soil to dry out completely but do not allow it to become soggy or to remain so damp that mold begins to grow. Keeping soil damp enough for seeds to germinate may also produce the kind of environment that will allow the formation of some mold and various diseases that can cause problems. It is important to treat with fungicides in order to promote healthy young cactus sprouts. Do not allow the soil to get too cold. Germination of seeds will require a temperature of about 70 to 75 degrees F. The use of an electric heating pad Or electric light will be helpful when propagating seeds during winter months. After sprouts have established themselves, the glass or plastic covering will no longer be needed. Eventually, repot into individual containers (with hole at bottom for drainage) and water less frequently. Cacti can be fertilized at this time.

Ferns have neither flowers nor seeds. They produce new ferns at their sides from the rhizome. They also produce new ferns from spores which drop off of the undersides of the fronds. These spores can be seen arranged in clusters called sori on the underneath side of the leafy fronds. These spores can be collected and with the techniques that will be explained next, it is possible to obtain hundreds of new ferns. The advantage of the propagation from spores is that you can obtain such a large lumber of new ferns; the disadvantage is that it will take at least two years to have these ferns grow to a medium size and longer to reach a mature size.

Collecting the Spores

If the spores are well developed in their cases (sori) and ready to fall off of the underneath side of the leafy fronds, tie a clear plastic bag over a large healthy frond and shake or tap the frond until the spores fall into the bag. Some of the spores will cling to the fronds. Take the frond in hand and gently rub the foliage with thumb and fore finger to loosen the spores. If the spores do not loosen from the frond, check with a magnifying glass to see if the caes are empty or if the spores are mature. The spores may not have developed yet. Spores in most species will be a dark red/brown or black when they are fully mature. In some species the color may be a golden yellow. In all species they will be swollen and the spore case (sporangium) will begin to wither away so that the spores can be released.

Another way to collect the spores is to cut off the entire frond at the stem. Take a sheet of standard 8 1/2 x 11 typing paper or copy paper and fold in half lengthwise. Place the frond with the spores still attached into the folded sheet of paper and store it in a book. So that you don't forget which book you used to file the frond, you can look up Ferns in a dictionary or encyclopedia and place the frond there. Keep the book vertical so that the spores will not get crushed as might be the case if the book were to lie flat with more books on top. At least one week later, the frond will dry out and the spores will be released for germination. You will know right where to look for the spores when it is time to propagate them.

Use a porous 2 inch x 8 inch x 16 inch concrete patio block or a couple of porous bricks (do not use glazed fireplace bricks). Boil the patio block or bricks in an oven pan on top of the stove for 20 minutes to sterilize the surfaces. Boil a growing medium of a mixture of peat moss and perlite or vermiculite, about half and half, for a few minutes and allow it to cool. If you are sure the peat moss is sterile, this step is not necessary.

Another way to sterilize the growing medium is to mix it with enough water to form a consistency similar to a cake mix. Place the medium into a plastic grocery bag. Place this bag into a fairly deep microwave dish and cook in the microwave oven for 2 or 3 minutes. Remove from microwave oven.

Place the patio blocks or bricks into a nursery tray or an old pan and pour in water to a depth of 1 inch. Spread a layer of about 1/4 inch of the cooled sterile peat moss/growing medium over the top surface of the patio block or bricks. Gently tap the plastic bag containing the spores over the layer of peat moss. Tie a larger clear plastic bag, or place a sheet of glass over the tray or pan and place the unit in a dark location for a day or two before moving to a location that gets plenty of light.

A simpler method also works just as well: Any sterile flat container may be used for propagating ferns. Grocery stores and Supermarkets use molded clear plastic containers for salads, pastries and pies that work very well for propagating spores and seeds. Usually these containers have a clear plastic top that either fits perfectly over the bottom tray or in many cases, the top is folded or hinged to the bottom portion of the tray. These containers can be obtained for free when you purchase the salad or pastry and can be used over and over. Rather than boiling the container, mix 1 part bleach to 9 parts water and wash the container to be used.

After the container has dried, fill it with a planting medium. Use a mixture of about 1/2 peat moss and 1/2 perlite or vermiculite which is a very good medium for propagating ferns. It is important to keep the planting medium damp and covered with clear plastic or glass. Do not allow mold to form on the planting medium or the fern starts will be lost. Do not allow the planting medium to become soggy nor too dry. Mist the surface every couple of days or as needed. Condensation on the underneath side of the plastic or glass is likely to cause mold to form. Taking the cover off daily, to remove the moisture from the underneath side will help prevent the problem of mold. Put the container in a dark location for a day or two. Keep the container covered and move to an area that gets light such as next to a window, or use fluorescent lights or grow lights. In about 2 or 3 weeks, young ferns will start to grow.

In a few weeks, the tiny new clumps of ferns will be ready to transplant to individual containers. These plants will be very delicate at this stage and much care is advised in handling them. The use of tweezers and a knife will make this job somewhat easier. After several months of growth the little ferns will be ready for another thinning out into larger individual containers. Always use sterile containers and tools.

The use of a time-release high-nitrogen fertilizer will help in the development of the new ferns. Consult your local nurseryman. The amount of fertilizer needed will depend on the number of spores you have planted.

As the ferns begin to develop, the cover can gradually be lifted for a few hours each day. When they are large enough to transplant again in clumps of 2 or 3 ferns each into a larger container, the cover will not be needed. They will be about 25% of their mature size after 12 months. The ferns may be left in clumps or they may eventually be divided into single ferns and transplanted again as they continue to mature. The use of the high-nitrogen fertilizer may be continued but follow dosage directions from your nurseryman or the label very carefully. It is also wise to consult your local nursery for products that will keep your ferns disease and pest free.