Tips For Getting and Growing Good Cuttings.

• Soil cleanliness cannot stressed enough. Soil fungus kills more cuttings than any other problem.
  
• Spring and fall are be best times since rose roots are most active then.
  
  
• 3 to 5 leaf joints are plenty, the top joints being for one or two sets of leaves and other joints for roots below ground.
  
  
• Protect the new cutting by a fruit jar of glass, or a 2 liter plastic soft drink bottle that has the base cut off with a hot knife and placed over the cutting like a dome. The cap of the dome may be removed during hot weather and replaced in severe cold or wet weather.
  
  
• Care should be taken that good drainage is ever present and that the roots are never dried out.
  
  
• Never dig to take a peek to see if roots are growing as this is fatal.
  
  
• Roots may form in two weeks or as long as two months.
  
  
• Roses in pots may be set in a pot dish after planting and water kept in the dish to provide soil moisture as needed and removed from the dish of water if a heavy rain occurs.
  
  
• The first leaves that grow are from strength in the stem or cane, not from any roots. The appearance of the second sets of leaves are from new roots.
  
  
• It is very important that the cutting not be jostled or moved as these roots will very easily break and kill the cutting.
  
  
• It may take a while for the second leaves to appear, but as long as the cutting does not darken or blacken at or above the soil line the cutting has not died from soil fungus.
  
  
• As the weather permits after the leaves are growing well the glass or plastic dome over the cutting may be tilted to one side during good weather and a small rock or block of wood put under the rim to allow fresh air to reach the plant. If a cool night is expected, it is best to not tilt the cover then.
  
  
• Gradually "harden off" the new plant over the period of 7 to 10 days and watch it closely before leaving the protection off permanently. In the wintertime we often leave cuttings covered for longer periods as the roots formed are actively storing starches to prepare for vigorous spring growth.
  
  
• Roses are seldom harmed until the temperature at ground level -is below 26 degrees Fahrenheit.
  
  
•  Gradually introduce the new plant to sunshine.

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PRUNING ROSES:

March is Rose Pruning Time. If you want large flowers with long stems and attractive rose bushes, then you need to prune your roses.

Rose pruning is really quite simple. You will need a pair of gloves to protect our hands from the thorns and a good sturdy pair of pruning shears. And, you may want to protect the canes from insect and disease infestations by treating them with a pruning paint.

As a rule it is a good idea to make all pruning cuts just above an outside bud so the new growth will develop outward, thus opening-up the plant to allow for better air circulation and sunlight exposure.

Roses are easy to prune if you simply follow a few basic fundamentals.

HYBRID TEAS - These are the type of roses that produce the large flowers, one per stem. I find it easiest to prune them by the size of the cane. For example, if a small cane is about the size of a pencil, prune it back to four to six inches from the graft (the swelling at the base of the canes, where the bush was budded onto the root stock). If the cane is about the size of our little finger, prune it back to about four to eight inches from the graft. Canes that are the size of your forefinger should be pruned down to about eight to twelve inches from the graft. Larger canes that are thumb sized or larger should be pruned at two feet of less, if possible. Sometimes the large canes do not have growth buds that low on them, so cut back as far as you can to the lowest bud. Usually it is a good practice to limit the canes to about four or five of the young, strong new rose canes. Select the outer canes, so it opens-up the bush to permit better sunlight exposure and air circulation

FLORIBUNDA AND POLYANTHUS - These are the types of roses that produce lots of flowers per stem. Although some can be cut and used as cut flowers, most are grown for garden show because of their prolific flowering habit. The floribundas are generally smaller growing. These are easy to prune, simply head the canes back at about twelve to eighteen inches from the graft.

If the bush is really full of canes it is a good idea to thin out a few, again for better exposure to sun and air.

CLIMBING ROSES - These are undoubtedly the most misunderstood of all roses when it comes to pruning, yet they are quite easy to prune. Limit the climbing rose canes to about four or six. Spreading an even number on each side, so the plant is balanced. Remove the surplus canes. The ones you keep should be the younger green canes. Spread the canes out. The only pruning you do on the main cane is to simply cut it back on the tips so it fits the surface, the plant is covering. Do not cut the canes severely as you do with the other types, because a climbing rose produces canes one year and they do not flower until the second year. So if you cut it back severely, there would be no flowers until the next season. Any secondary growth that develops off the main cane should be cut back to the second growth bud, usually making it only about two or three inches long.

MINIATURE ROSES - They are really easy to prune. Cut back only about one-fourth of the old growth, shaping the plant so it has a nice bushy growth habit.

TREE ROSES - Never prune the main upright stock of a tree rose. All pruning cuts would be made using the graft at the top of the tree stock, as the guide from which the pruning distances are determined. In other words the bushy head of the tree rose is what needs pruning. Make the pruning cuts according to the type of rose that is grafted onto the tree stock.

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HOW TO PLANT ROSES
BARE-ROOT: 1. Dig a hole 18 inches wide and deep. Mix a shovelful each of the removed soil, compost, and potting mix. 2. Cut back any torn roots on the rose and set it carefully in the bed of soil mixture, ensuring that the bud unionthe waxy graft between the rose and the rootsis just below ground level. If temperatures drop below 10ºF, the rose should be planted four to six inches deeper. 3. Center the rose in the hole; add remaining potting soil. Firm it down. Water immediately. 4. Top with a few inches mulch to help retain moisture.Water every few days for the first three weeks while the root structure is forming. 5. When leaf growth emerges, feed every two weeks.

CONTAINER-GROWN: 1. Water plant thoroughly several hours before planting. 2. Make a hole slightly larger than its container and mix soil as above. 3. Water the hole well. 4. Remove rose from container and gently tease roots out a little. 5. Pop rose in the hole, infill with soil mixture and water well. Dont let it dry out. Mulch is helpful in very dry areas. 6. Feed every two weeks.