Majuli Rice
Sunil Kaul
"Alimentary, my dear watson" said Sherlock Holmes, deliberately mixing his words. "What you have thought aloud is what every thinking person is worried about. Though one man's food can be another one's poison, what we see these days is that every person has to eat what s/he gets and that what s/he gets is more poison than food. Strictly speaking, when we talk of food it must be benefiting and not harming the body. It must provide all the nutritious elements for us. In other words, all things alimentary must also must be elementary, doctor."
Food for thought, this. But how can one avoid these chemicals which leave a bad taste in our mouths even when we take their names ? Can one grow food these days without using fertilisers and pesticides? Is it possible not to take them these days? And if so, how?
Amidst the mighty Brahmaputra in Assam, is the world's largest river island-- Majuli. Where people continue to farm their rice naturally. Because the floods each year still give to the rice what it wants, much of the rice that is grown on the island is still unpolluted by tongue twisting toxic chemicals.
The ancient varieties of hardy paddy continue to survive the floods and the vermin naturally-- without fertilisers or pesticides. ahudhaan, a fast maturing variety is broadcast along with baodhaan in spring but matures within three months, and is harvested tediously by people standing in waist deep water--- before the high floods make their annual visit. Bao meanwhile sees through the floods and survives for days totally submerged under water. It is not before the mild winter chill envelopes the island in November that it can be reaped.
Both ahu and bao have various varieties, ranging from bogha or white to ronga or red; but the taste is always sweet. Naturally sweet. It tastes splendid after cooking and can be eaten even without any accompaniments. It is often eaten with only a bit of water or milk, or just a sprinkling of salt.
Another interesting variety which is grown on Majuli is koomal sawol or soft rice. It needs no cooking at all. Soak it for a couple of hours and it is ready to eat ! Traditionally eaten with thick creamy curd and jaggery , it has been the breakfast cereal of the people on Majuli much before Kelloggs was born.
Today the existence of Majuli is under threat. Large scale deforestation in the hills of Arunachal has raised the level of the Brahmaputra. The fortifications which are available to the cities and commercial centres on the banks of the flippant river further restrict its bed and raising it. But these embankments are not considered cost effective for the economically poor island. Today, it has already shrunk to one third its earlier size because of the large scale erosion that is taking place.
The one and a half lakh population has learnt to cope with nature. Even now the floods are always welcome. Like any other guest who is to be pampered by the Vaishnavites. Majuli is one of the last repositories of this faith and the people are proud of their cultural heritage. Till it lasts.
AVARD-NE is a nongovernment organisation presently attempting to help the Majulians save their heritage. Marketing naturally farmed rice by small cooperative groups to boost the economy of the island is one of the initiatives which is envisaged. We shall need as many hands as can help to save this largest river island of the world--a world heritage if someone would care to call it.
[Dr Sunil wrote this article during his work in Majuli]
