Cliff Index:

Location:
NTS Map Sheet: Church Point 21 B/8
Approach: trail
Directions:
After disembarking from the ferry to Long Island, follow the narrow road on your right towards the lighthouse. Look on your left for a small path leading to a short(10') wall. Enter the path, go left at the short wall then keep going up and right. The first wall you'll encounter is about 25' and has good top-rope warm-up routes(5.7-5.10). Behind this wall, you'll find the main wall.
Rock type: Basalt
Max Height: Unknown
Extent: Unknown
Usage: Low
Potential: Unknown
Access:
Stiles:
Grade Range:
Number of routs:
Comment:
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Sandy Cove:

Sandy Cove

Location:
NTS Map Sheet: Church Point 21 B/8
Approach: trail
Directions:
Drive on route 217 towards Brier Island from Digby until you begin descending down a hill into Sandy Cove. You will be able to see the cliff behind you, on the right. There is a driveway/road partway down the hill leading to three cottages and a trail which accesses the top of the cliff. The trail begins before reaching the last cottage and is well defined to the top.
Rock type: Basalt
Max Height: 10 m
Extent: Medium
Usage: Unknown
Potential: Medium
Access: No issues
Stiles: T, TR
Grade Range: 5.4 - 5.11a
Number of routs: 11
Comment:
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Centreville:

Trout Cove

Location:
NTS Map Sheet: Centreville 21 B/9
Approach: dirt road
Directions:
Drive on route 217 towards Brier Island from Digby until you reach Centreville. Turn right just before the Wilson's gas station and drive until are almost at the water and you will see the cliff on your right. A dirt road leads to the cliff and you can park in the small pullout just before a large boulder near the cliff base.
Rock type:
Max Height: 12m
Extent: Medium
Usage: Low
Potential: Medium
Access: Good relations with locals, Cliff is on private land.
Stiles: T, S, TR
Grade Range: 5.6 - 5.12c
Number of routs: 10
Comment:
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Bridgetown:

Clarence

Location: (UTM) 322400 E, 4974300N, North-west of Clarence on south facing face of in-cut.
NTS Map Sheet: 21 A/14
Approach: (25 minute hike) dirt road, skidder road, ATV trail, short bushwhack
Directions:
Get off Highway 101 at exit 19 and turn right to head toward the North Mountain. At the T- intersection turn left, then take the first right (at Central Clarence) to get to the top of the North Mountain. At the T-intersection turn left. Drive past two roads heading toward the sea and look for a dirt logging road on the left, just after the last (dilapidated) farm. Park on side of paved road. Follow logging road through clear-cut area. The road will make a sharp right turn, and you will see a skidder road continuing straight. Follow the skidder road until it becomes an ATV trail, then look for an ATV trail joining it from the left. Follow this ATV trail. After passing a cabin/camp in the woods on your left you will decent a hill and turn left (there may be an abandoned stove here). Eventually you will emerge from the left fork of a Y-intersection and the most of the ATV tracks will make a sharp turn up the other fork. Go Straight instead and shortly the trail will crest a rise and start descending. Leave the trail at this point and angle to the left down hill, across a path, across a wee trickle of a stream, back up hill slightly, and a bit right toward the valley. This will put you at the top of the cliff. (This route was marked with flagging tape which may help.) [Emergency access via ATV trail starting on farm below cliff.]
Rock type: Basalt
Max Height: ~12 m
Extent: Very Small
Usage: Low
Potential: Low
Access: No complaints from land owners yet
Stiles: TR
Grade Range: 5.7 -5.9
Number of routs: ~4
Comment: Anchor off dwarf oak 20 feet back from cliff. Basalt rocks!
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Greenwood:

Old Mill Crag

Location:
NTS Map Sheet: 21 A/15
Approach: Short trail
Directions:
The Old Mill climbing area is located on the South Mountain, near Greenwood, in the Annapolis Valley. Take the Kingston/Greenwood exit (Exit 17) off of Highway 1001. Drive into Kingston and follow the signs for the K-Mart Mall or CFB Greenwood. Turn right at the lights by Canadian Tire, which will take you by McDonalds (on the right), and the Zellers Mall (left side). Across from Zellers there is a fork in the road - follow the right branch. Follow this road until you get to a T-intersection with a stop sign. Turn left and go about 100 m and turn right onto Rocknotch road. Follow Rocknotch road until a stop sign. Do a U-turn and park near the first guardrail on the right. There is a path that leads down to the stream and the ruins of the mill. Continue downstream until you get to a concrete box structure - this marks the far left (eastern) edge of the climbing area.
Rock type: Probably Granite
Max Height: 12 m
Extent: Medium
Usage: Low
Potential: Medium
Access: Unknown
Stiles: TR
Grade Range: 5.6 - 5.10
Number of routs:
Comment: Stream at base makes access difficult when water is high in Spring & Fall.
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Hubbards:

The Zoo

Location: (UTM) 0411550E, 4946500N
NTS Map Sheet: Chester 21 A/9
Approach: boat
Directions:
Take Highway 103 to Exit 6, at Hubbards. At the stop sign at the end of the off ramp, take a right. Follow this road (it changes to a dirt road after about 500 meters) for 1.5 km until you see the lake and the docks. Park there and do not drive down the Private roads to get closer. Paddle directly away from the dock following the shore on your left until you reach the end of a dog leg cove. There is a small portage (60-70 feet) on the right hand side of the dead end. Cross this and you will see the tip of the crag on the right. Paddle another 250 meters and pull your boats to shore. The total paddling distance is about 3 km and takes 35-45 minutes. Hike up a small scramble to the base of the crag.
Rock type: Granite
Max Height: 15 m
Extent: Medium
Usage: Medium
Potential: Medium
Access: No issues
Stiles: T, M, TR
Grade Range: 5.6 - 5.10c
Number of routs: 10
Comment:
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Boutiliers Point:

The Skapper

Location:
Map
NTS Map Sheet: Halifax 11 D/12
Approach: 4x4 trail & foot trail (30 minute hike from road)
Directions:
Drive southwest from Halifax on Highway 103 and take Exit 5 at Tantallon. Drive south over the highway to reach rout 3. Turn right and follow Route 3 through one set of lights and then about ten minutes further to reach the community of Boutiliers Point. Turn right on Island View Drive or Christies Road and follow it to a community playground and ball diamond. Park here. At the back of the ball diamond is a well-used ATV trail (derivable with 4x4s). There are a couple of minor side roads along the way, but the most-traveled track is the way to go (a split in the main road after about 10-12 minutes quickly rejoins itself). After about 15 minutes from the ball diamond, you'll come to a confusing fork in the road which splits and splits again. Take the middle of the tree options. (The right track goes down hill slightly into the mud and then bends right; the left-most option is a tighter track leading into dense woods; and the center option is the driest and most traveled.) The road soon crests a small hill and travels along a narrow ridge as you approach a stream. Just before you reach the stream there is a fork. Take the right one and 50 m later you will come to a rickety old bridge (about 20 minutes from the ball diamond to this point). Cross the bridge and immediately turn right to follow a faint trail that switches back and forth across the stream as it climbs the hillside. After about 10 minutes the trail moves away from the stream (on the north side of it) and the cliff materializes unexpectedly out of the trees.
Rock type:
Max Height: 20 m
Extent: Medium
Usage: Medium
Potential: Medium
Access: No Issues
Stiles: T, M, S, TR
Grade Range: 5.4 - 5.11
Number of routs: 14
Comment:
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West Dover:

Dover Island

Location:
Map
NTS Map Sheet: Sambro 11 D/5
Approach: boat
Directions:
Launch your boat from the government wharf in West Dover. Paddle south toward Dover Island. Keep left (east) of the small island which looks like part of Dover Island until you come around and find it is not conceded. Land at the in-cut and follow a short path across the island to the cliffs. Watch sea conditions carefully if using a canoe.
Rock type: Granite
Max Height: 10 m
Extent: Medium
Usage: Medium
Potential: Developed
Access: No Issues
Stiles: T, TR
Grade Range: 5.5 - 5.11b
Number of routs: 14
Comment: Route did not require cleaning = fast development. Mostly a bouldering area.
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Terence Bay:

Sorrows End

Location: (UTM) 0441000E, 4916500N
Map
NTS Map Sheet: Sambro 11 D/5
Approach: trail, ATV trail
Directions:
Take Highway 333 towards Peggy's Cove. Turn Left onto Terrance Bay Road. At the second "Welcome to Terrance Bay" sign (Not the Blue one) you will see two driveways on your right going up a steep hill. In between those driveways are two orange tags, the trail starts there. Scramble up the initial steep slope and continue West up the hill. Follow the orange tags across the first ATV trail . The trail is a little twisty, but just keep following the orange tags past the "deck-without-a-house", briefly intercept an ATV trial but after about thirty feet head left across some exposed rock, through bushes, past a dilapidated tree stand, more bushes, and across a couple of creeks. Approx 20 minutes from the road you will come out onto another ATV trail. This is the old trail that used to cut through the resident's backyards across from the fish plant. From here you are about 5 minutes from the top of the rock face (Sorrow's End is west facing), just keep walking west (right out of the woods). Warning, this is a spider-web of ATV trails, so bring a compass.
Rock type: Granite
Max Height: 15 m
Extent: Medium
Usage: High
Potential: Developed
Access: Cliff on crown land, all access trails are on private property
Stiles: T, M, S, TR
Grade Range: 5.7 - 5.13-
Number of routs: 26
Comment:
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Crows Nest

Location: (UTM) 0443800E, 4924500N
Map
NTS Map Sheet: Sambro 11 D/5
Approach: boat
Directions:
Drive to Terence Bay and park at the government wharf (approximately 8.8 km from the turn off from Highway 333). Turn left before the school and in the second or third road on your right. The wharf is at the end of what looks a bit like a driveway. Paddle directly across the bay (east) towards the large cliffs you can see them from the wharf and pull into a deep sheltered cove left of the cliff. (Alternatively, you can bushwhack from the north end of Terrence Bay for about an hour.) From the cove pull you boats up really high. The last time I went our boats were floating when we got back. Fortunately right against shore. A faint trail leads to the top of the cliff and a small trail leads around from the top to the base of the main face. It then runs along the base of the tallest part of the cliff, ending at a 20 foot high right-facing corner. There is also a small scramble down to the water's edge for some lower routes.
Rock type: Granite
Max Height: 20 m
Extent: Medium
Usage: Low
Potential: Medium
Access: No Issues
Stiles: T
Grade Range: 5.6 - 5.11c
Number of routs: 13
Comment:
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Easter Island

Location: (UTM) 0441700E, 4924900N
Map
NTS Map Sheet: Sambro 11 D/5
Approach: boat, or Emergency access via Nice View Drive (crosses private property)
Directions:
Follow highway 333, and take the turn off for Terrence Bay. Drive to Terrence Bay and stop at either the first or second spot that you can put your boats in on the right hand side of the road. This is just after the school and the church. Paddle along the coast, back toward where you drove in from. This will take you back into Back Bay (heading north). At the back of Back Bay the coast turns westward. You will see isolated big houses, and the face is about 200 ft after the last house on Back Bay.
Rock type: Granite
Max Height: 23 m
Extent: Medium
Usage: Low
Potential: Medium
Access: Land access requires trespassing, please access by boat.
Stiles: T
Grade Range: 5.6 - 5.11c
Number of routs: 14
Comment: Easter Island is not an island! Land was recently for sail.
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Medicine Wall

Location: western shore of Shannon Island
Map
NTS Map Sheet: Sambro 11 D/5
Approach: boat
Directions:
Take highway 333, and turn at the Terence Bay turnoff. Go past the school and the Church and put your boat in on the right side of the road. Head for the West side (far side) of Shannon Island in Back Bay. You will pass an inlet called Blood Cove and then circle the island to get to the face across from Burnt Island. The face is on the shore and a small ramp covered in seaweed toward the left of the face is a good place to pull boats up. A small ridge creates a little eddy at the base of the ramp which keep your boat from smashing against the rock.
Rock type: Granite
Max Height: 13 m
Extent: Medium
Usage: Low
Potential: Medium
Access: No Issues
Stiles: T, TR
Grade Range: 5.5- - 5.10d
Number of routs: 9
Comment: On an Island
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Bedford:

Eagles Nest

Location: (UTM) 0448400E, 4951700N
Map
NTS Map Sheet: Halifax 11 D/12
Approach: Close to road, short trail
Directions:
Access from Top: Halfway up Magazine Hill is a street called either Dartmoor or Eaglewood Dr. Take this road. At stop sign, turn left. Follow until second left (Snowy Owl Dr.) Go up and take first left. After 200 ft turn right into little dead end with sign at the end saying Admiral Park. Follow the trail into Admiral Park. When you get to a point where you can see the Harbour and a big boulder on top of the ledge, walk down the slope to the right until you come out to the top of the cliff.

Access from Bottom: Follow Bedford highway. Turn right under the bridge by the Fish Hatchery before you get to McDonald's. Go down this road about 200ft and take a left almost imediately. This puts you on Shore Drive. To reach the bottom entrance to the face follow this road until you get to a place that looks like Long Cove, Drive up the hill a bit look in your rear view mirror and you will see it. Park halfway up the hill and walk down to the corner and hike up hill to the face. Enter the woods at the corner by Long Cove, walk up the trail and climb the hill until you see the rock.
Rock type: Metamorphic Gneiss
Max Height: 15 m
Extent: Large
Usage: Very High
Potential: Fully Developed
Access: Land owned by Halifax Regional Municipality
Stiles: S, TR
Grade Range: 5.4 - 5.11c
Number of routs: 29
Comment: Urban Crag
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Musquodoboit Valley:

Railway Crag

Location: (UTM) 0488100E, 4961200N
Map
NTS Map Sheet: Musquodoboit 11 D/14
Approach: trail & old rail bed
Directions:
Take Highway 107 up the Eastern Shore until the highway ends at Musquodoboit. At the Stop sign veer right. Follow this road until you see the little store and the RCMP station. Take a left, this will put you heading north on Highway 357. Travel up this road for 1 km until you see a bridge to the right. Turn and cross the bridge and follow the road staying right. When you reach the dead end, park at the turn around. From the parking area there is an abandoned railway line. Turn left onto the railway trail and follow it for ten minutes and the cliff will be seen on the right.
Rock type: Granite
Max Height: 30 m
Extent: Moderate
Usage: Moderate
Potential: Medium
Access: No Issues
Stiles: T, TR
Grade Range: 5.6 - 5.10+
Number of routs: 9
Comment:
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Columbus Wall

Location: (UTM) 0483100E, 4964800N
Map
NTS Map Sheet: Musquodoboit 11 D/14
Approach: dirt road & trail
Directions:
From Musquodoboit Harbour, take the 357for 7.5 km and turn left on to a gravel road. Drive 200 m up the gravel road to the top of the rise and park near the gate, leaving enough room for vehicles to pass. Walk 15 to 20 minutes up the road until you see short rock face ad a small rock cairn on the left hand side (10 metres further yields a view of the Musquodoboit valley). Follow the trail behind the cairn into the woods until you reach a rock bluff on your right. Various trails access the upper and lower tiers of the cliff.
Rock type: Granite
Max Height: 25 m
Extent: Large
Usage: High
Potential: High
Access: No Issues
Stiles: T, M, S, TR
Grade Range: 5.6+ - 5.11b
Number of routs: 35
Comment:
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Bow Wall

Location: (Lat/Long, decimal minutes) 44š, 49.596' N, 63š, 14.336' W
NTS Map Sheet:
Approach: dirt road (gated) & trail
Directions:
From Musquodoboit Harbour, take the 357for 7.5 km and turn left on to a gravel road. The approach is along the gated logging road that passes Columbus Wall. From the gate, follow the road for 5.7 km keeping left at a couple of forks, to a small clearing north of Sugar Camp Lake (park near a cairn on the right hand side of the road). It's about an hour hike to here, but this could be made easier by mountain bike, or much easier by vehicle if you have a key to the gate (for key, contact Taylor Lumber, Middle Musquodoboit, $75/year). From the clearing, hike for about 300m east along a rough road, then keep right along a flagged trail for another 200 m to the crag (15 minutes from the road)
Rock type: Granite
Max Height: 14 m
Extent: Moderate
Usage: Moderate
Potential: Medium
Access:
Stiles: T
Grade Range: 5.6 - 5.10c
Number of routs: 8
Comment: Long walk if you do not have a key to the gate.
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Gibralter Rock

Location: (UTM) 0480500E, 4970500N
NTS Map Sheet: Musquodoboit 11 D/14
Approach: short trail & old rail bed
Directions:
Heading north on highway 357. This cliff can be seen on the left near the start/finish of the Musqodoboit rail trail. Park in the parking lot for the trail and follow the trail until you reach the Gibralter Rock lookoff loop and follow this to access the top. To access the bottom, walk along the rail trail a short distance to where the road and trail are separated only by a ditch, then look for flaking tape marking a trail up hill This spot is popular for ice climbing.
Rock type: Granite
Max Height: ~7 m
Extent: Small
Usage: High (in winter)
Potential: Low
Access:
Stiles:
Grade Range:
Number of routs:
Comment: Mostly an Ice climbing destination
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Promised Land

Location:
NTS Map Sheet:
Approach:
Directions:
Rock type: Granite
Max Height:
Extent:
Usage:
Potential:
Access:
Stiles:
Grade Range:
Number of routs:
Comment: I have hear only rumors.
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Musquodoboit Valley, Paces Lake:

First Face

Location: (UTM) 0484000E, 4961800N
Map
NTS Map Sheet: Musquodoboit 11 D/14
Approach: trail, or boat
Directions:
Take Highway 107 up the Eastern Shore until the highway ends at Musquodoboit. At the Stop sign turn right. Follow this road until you see the little store and the RCMP station. Take a left, this will put you heading north on Highway 357. Travel up this road for 6.1 km and take a left into the second little dirt road. (The first little road is the old road, its a dead end now.) Follow the dirt road and when it forks go left. You will come up a little hill and you will see some parking on the right by the "Take Your Garbage Home" sign. Down at the bottom of this hill is a dock and more parking. Leave this parking for the boaters. Walk down the hill to the dock. If you want to see the face walk to the end of the dock and look to your left. To gain access from the parking lot, follow the small trail on left side of the lower parking area (left if facing the water). Follow this along the shore of the lake until the trees open up to the landslide. You will have to scramble up the boulder fallout to gain access to the base of the rock face. If you are top ropers, hike to the left of the face, or the right, haphazard trails lead around in both directions.
Rock type: Granite
Max Height: 28 m
Extent: Large
Usage: High
Potential: High
Access:
Stiles: T, M, S, TR
Grade Range: 5.5 - 5.12a (mostly on the high side)
Number of routs: 19
Comment: Land may be for sail.
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Main Face

Location: (UTM) 0483900E, 4962700N
Map
NTS Map Sheet: Musquodoboit 11 D/14
Approach: long trail, or boat
Directions:
Take Highway 107 up the Eastern Shore until the highway ends at Musquodoboit. At the Stop sign turn right. Follow this road until you see the little store and the RCMP station. Take a left, this will put you heading north on Highway 357. Travel up this road for 6.1 km and take a left into the second little dirt road. (The first little road is the old road, its a dead end now.) Follow the dirt road and when it forks go left. You will come up a little hill and you will see some parking on the right by the "Take Your Garbage Home" sign. Down at the bottom of this hill is a dock and more parking. Leave this parking for the boaters. Walk down the hill to the dock and paddle for 10 minutes along the shore to the left to reach the base of the cliff.

Alternatively, the cliff can be accessed by foot from highway 357. Park 4.8 km from the Musquodoboit Harbour turnoff and follow a trail for twenty minutes to the top of the cliff. The trail is difficult to spot from the road, but it is well marked once you are on it.
Rock type: Granite
Max Height: 70 m
Extent: Very Large
Usage: High
Potential: High
Access: Must be CNS member, or accompany a CNS member, to climb. Bring CNS ID.
Stiles: T, M, S, TR, A
Grade Range: 5.5 - 5.11c
Number of routs: 68
Comment:
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Neverland

Location: (UTM) 0484700E, 4961100N
Map
NTS Map Sheet: Musquodoboit 11 D/14
Approach: Long trail, or boat
Directions:
By Boat: From Musquodoboit Harbour head north on Highway 357 for 6.1 km and take a left into the second little dirt road. (The first little road is the old road, its a dead end now.) Follow the dirt road and when it forks go left. You will come up a little hill and see some parking on the right by the "Take Your Garbage Home" sign. Down at the bottom of this hill is a dock and more parking. Leave this parking for the boaters. When approaching by boat, paddle along the coast, past First Face (heading south), Around the point, Past Main Face and about 500 meters more. Watch for the overhanging boulder and the small cove and land just north of the boulder.

By Foot: From Musquodoboit Harbour head north on Highway 357 for 4.8 km. The best parking is on the left side of the road. The trail is difficult to spot from the road (look for the yellow sign just after the new white rock driveway). A private trail leads to the face. Follow the trail for about twenty minutes to a cottage overlooking the lake. Walk along the top of the crag until it starts to slope down. Go down to the waters edge. When you arrive here hike the lake shore south for about five hundred meters until you reach a small stream that joins the lake in a sheltered cove; a large boulder overhanging the lake serves as a landmark. The crag is one hundred meters up the stream bed.
Rock type: Granite
Max Height: 17 m
Extent: Moderate
Usage: Low
Potential: Medium
Access:
Stiles: T, S, TR, A
Grade Range: 5.10d - 5.12c
Number of routs: 8
Comment:
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Murphy's Cove, Eastern Shore:

Ship Rock

Location: (UTM) 0519300E, 4957000N
NTS Map Sheet: Tangier 11 D/15
Approach: boat
Directions:
From the intersection of highway 357 and 7in Musquodoboit Harbour follow Highway 7 for 40 km to Murphy's Cove Campground. Follow the dirt road to the campground where parking can be negotiated. From the campground, paddle for 10 minutes to the south side of Ship Rock Island, where the cliff is located.

A better option is to put in about halfway to the campground on the right side of the road (facing Downie Is.) and paddle there not a good option on windy days though. Rock type: Quartzite
Max Height: 22 m
Extent: Moderate
Usage: Low
Potential: Moderate
Access:
Stiles: T
Grade Range: 5.9+ - 5.11a
Number of routs: 8
Comment:
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Cape Breton Interior :

Cape Clear

Location:
NTS Map Sheet: 11 K/7
Approach:
Directions:
Take exit 7 off of highway 105 (~10 km south of Beddeck) and head towards Margaree Forks along the Cabot Trail Highway. After ~30 km turn right and head towards the small village of Margaree Valley. At Margaree Valley turn right again onto "Fielding Road" which turns into a very extensive network of logging roads. Follow signs to Cape Clear (~35-40 km). Drive as close to the cliff as your car can drive and stop before going over the edge. Apparently the road is in good condition for most vehicles up to the last 300 m or so. [An alternative approach: 2.5 km after taking exit 7, turn right onto "The Highland Highway" (a wide dirt road that you can travel on at 100 km/hr) at Hunters Mountain. After about 35 km it will join the approach from Fielding Road.]
Rock type: Granite
Max Height: 80 m
Extent: Very Large
Usage: Low
Potential: High
Access:
Stiles: T, M, TR
Grade Range:
Number of routs:
Comment: has a four pitch mixed line
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Second Fork

Location:
NTS Map Sheet: 11 K/7
Approach: bushwhack
Directions :
Take exit 7 off of highway 105 (~10 km south of Beddeck) and head towards Margaree Forks along the Cabot Trail Highway. After ~30 km turn right and head towards the small village of Margaree Valley. At Margaree Valley turn right again onto "Fielding Road" which turns into a very extensive network of logging roads. Follow signs to Cape Clear (~35-40 km). About 1.2 km before reaching the end of the road, take a short road to the north. Park at its end and bushwhack north for about 1.5 km to reach the falls at Second Fork Brook. As you descend towards the brook, the cliffs are easily viable on the other side of the valley.
Rock type: Granite
Max Height: 60 m
Extent: Large
Usage: Low
Potential: Medium (Mostly for hard sport routes)
Access: No Issues
Stiles: T
Grade Range: 5.8
Number of routs: 1
Comment: Steep - overhanging, and not must traditional protection in most places.
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Cape Breton Highlands National Park, Ingonish Area:

Black Brook

Location:
NTS Map Sheet:
Approach: short trail
Directions:
Drive north on the Cabot Trail 15-20 km past Ingonish. The cliff is easily visible up the hill on the west side of the road (~300' off of the road). Drive past the cliff a short distance, turn right and park at the Black Brook Beach parking lot. Cross the road and follow a faint trail to the base of the cliff. For coastal exposures, stay on the ocean side of the road and follow the established hiking trail for about ten minutes. A short rappel may be necessary to reach a belay shelf below the cliffs. Careful of the tides.
Rock type: Granite
Max Height: "short but enticing"
Extent: Medium
Usage: None (climbing ban)
Potential: Medium
Access: Climbing ban expected to be lifted soon
Stiles:
Grade Range:
Number of routs: ~10
Comment:
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Little Smokey

Location:
NTS Map Sheet:
Approach: short trail, beach
Directions:
Pull off of the Cabot Trail approximately 7km north of Ingonish at a small parking lot located 1 km south of the Little Smoky summit. From the parking lot, follow the trail down to the beach and walk to its north end where the beach disappears and the cliffs begin.
Rock type: Metamorphic gneiss
Max Height: 60 m
Extent: Large
Usage: Low
Potential: High
Access: Climbing ban expected to be lifted soon
Stiles: T
Grade Range: 5.6 - 5.8
Number of routs: 2
Comment:
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Franey

Location:
NTS Map Sheet:
Approach:
Directions:
Rock type: Granite
Max Height: 30 m
Extent: Large
Usage: none
Potential: High
Access: Climbing ban, more issues than other cliffs in the area.
Stiles: T
Grade Range:
Number of routs: 4
Comment:
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Sydney Area:

Big Pond

Location:
NTS Map Sheet: 11 F/15
Approach: by road
Directions:
Drive southwest from Sydney on Highway 4 for approximately 40 km. The cliff is easily visable on the southeast side of the read and below the cliff is a small semi-active quarry with a wire gate strung across the entrance. Park alongside the road but don't block the gate. Walk through the quarry (when no active) and up the short slope to the cliff. (Ask permission from land owner across the road before climbing)
Rock type: Quartzite
Max Height: 7 m
Extent: Small
Usage: Unknown
Potential: Low
Access: Ask permission from land owner across the road.
Stiles: T, TR
Grade Range: 5.8 - 5.9
Number of routs: 5
Comment:
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Spotted Rock

Location:
NTS Map Sheet: 11 F/15
Approach:
Directions:
Rock type: Quartzite
Max Height: less than 10 m
Extent:
Usage:
Potential: Medium
Access:
Stiles: T
Grade Range: > 5.9
Number of routs: ~12
Comment: Labelled "Sgurra Bhreac" on provincial topo maps
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Cape Dauphin

Location:
NTS Map Sheet: Bras D'or 11 K/7
Approach:
Directions:
From Sydney, drive west on Route 125 and 105 for approximately 50 km until the road starts to climb Kellys Mountain. Turn right here onto New Harris Forks Road (just below the hairpin highway turn). Drive along the dirt road to its end (at the stop sign you should've turned right) and park near a small garage and house - please don't block the driveway. A narrow hiking trail starts left of the garage. Follow it for approximately 2 km. The legendary Fairy Hole is reached by following the first major stream bed (Big Brook) to the beach and then following the beach to the right until the beach ends. To access Fairy Foot, descend to the beach via the first small stream bed you come to (i.e., just before Big Brook). To access the rest of the climbing routes continue on the main trail ~300 m past Big Brook to another small stream bed. Follow this to the ocean and turn left, scrambling over the rocks along the shore, to reach a small beach and cliffs.
Rock type:
Max Height: 25 m
Extent:
Usage:
Potential: Medium
Access: No issues,
Stiles:
Grade Range:
Number of routs: 3
Comment: The "Fairy Hole" is in this area
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Lorraine Head

Location:
NTS Map Sheet: Louisbourg 11 G/13
Approach:
Directions:
Take Highway 22 south from Sydney towards Louisbourg. Before reaching the town of Louisbourg, take a left onto Little Lorraine Rd. and then the first right onto West Shore Road (unpaved). Drive as far as you can, and then walk towards the coast (~30 minutes) until you can walk no further. The rock exposures extend quite a ways along the coast. The access described here takes you to the highest exposures.
Rock type:
Max Height: 10 m
Extent: Small
Usage: Medium
Potential: Low
Access:
Stiles: S, TR
Grade Range: 5.10c - 5.11
Number of routs: 2
Comment: Some easier top-rope route not documented
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Data Sources:
Climb Nova Scotia Access Database
Cassidy, S. P., Nova Scotia Rock, A Climbers Guide, Echo Rock Guides, 2002
Knowledge\experience of climbers: Teth Cleveland, Sean Cassidy, Chris Hayes

Last Updated: 06/06/2003