1. On the Jacket Front, starting with the open lower dart, make a clip mark as shown in the picture. Stitch the lower dart, stretching the short side of the dart out to meet the other side. | |
2. Press all jacket front darts as shown by the arrows in the photo. | |
3. Stitch the shoulder dart and waist dart on the Jacket Back. | |
Clip out a 'V' of fabric in the middle of the waist dart to make it lay correctly when pressed. |
|
4. Stitch the jacket front to the Jacket back at the shoulder seams. | |
5. Staystitch the arm hole openings. |
|
The armhole needs to be clipped enough to form a straight sewing line when spread out. | |
6. Stitch the two darts on the back edge of each Sleeve. |
7. Stitch two gathering lines between the clip marks on the top edge of the sleeve. | |
8. Not all fabric will need the hem edge of the sleeve interfaced to stabalize it, but it is good for fabrics that tend to fray. Cut a thin 1/4" strip of light weight iron-on interfacing. | |
9. Finish the hem edge of the sleeve with a surger or small zig-zag. | |
10. Pull the two bobbin threads at the same time, one from each row of gathering stitches, to gather the sleeve top smoothly. |
Setting In the Sleeves |
11. When the sleeve top has been gathered to the right size, pin the sleeve to the armhole, spreading out the armhole clips to the maximum. | |
12. Stitch the sleeve to the jacket bodice from the armhole side, turning as needed and keeping the sleeve top as smooth as possible underneath. |
|
13. Stitch the sleeve seam and side seam together as one. | |
14. Fold the sleeve hem to the inside and hand hem. |
HOME | CLASSES | CLASS 22 INDEX | LESSON 1 | LESSON 2 | LESSON 3 | LESSON 4 | LESSON 5 | DARTS |