Style 29 Lesson 4
Square Neck & Piping
With photo's and instructions by
Marsha Olson
(printout is 6 pages)


Because I wanted to do a lesson on making and inserting piping into this class,
the method of assembling the dress will be different.
This lesson is my personal addition to the class and these instructions
are not included in the written instructions that came with your pattern.
I have chosen to use a lovely earthtone linen and will line it with a light color taffeta.
SQUARE NECKLINE - SHORT FULL SLEEVES - MID LENGTH

1. Stitch the Dress Side Front to the
Dress Side Back at the shoulder seam.
Press seam open.

2. Trim the seam back at an angle
to reduce bulk at this point as
much as possible.

Note: You will need an additional 1/2 yard of fabric to make
self fabric piping for the knee length version.
Floor length versions may require more.
Purchased piping in a matching or contrasting
color may also be used.

3. Cut roughly 1" wide strips on the bias.
To find the true bias of your fabric,
fold an equal sided square of fabric
corner to corner to make a triangle shape.
The fold will be true bias.

Your piping will need a filler. Find a
string with little or no give (stretch).
Knitting yarn is not usually a good
choice as there is too much give, but
the heavier kitchen type crochet threads
work very well.

Your filler string will be sewn inside
the folded strips of fabric using
your zipper foot to stitch very close
to the string. First of all, take a
strip of your fabric and pull gently
to determine the right from wrong side.
The fabric strip will 'curl' towards
the wrong side.


4. Trim the pointed ends
off the fabric strips.
Lay the cord down the center
of the wrong side and fold
the fabric around it.
5. Using your zipper foot, sew
as close to the cord as possible.
6. Trim your piping edge down
to 1/4".
As an interesting note aside from
the lesson, piping can be 'stacked'
in two or more rows of matching or
contrasting colors to create an
even more interesting trim effect.
7. Trim out a triangle of fabric
about 1/2" in from the end of
your strip of piping.
The cut out triangle enables the
piping to be folded into a corner
away from the body of the dress
1/4" up from the hem and creates
a beautiful couture finish in
the completed garment.
8. Raw edges together, and starting
from the edge of the hem, fold the
end of the piping out of the way.
Stitch the piping to dress sides
from one hem edge to the other.
9. Stitch a section of piping to
the top edge of the dress front.
10. Press the raw edge to the
inside. Trim the ends.
11. Clip to the piping on the
dress side front and back curves.

12. Right sides together, pin the dress front piece to the
dress front side, matching at the hem. Stitch.
Do the same on both sides of the front.



13. Press the seams towards the sides.


End Style 29 Lesson 4




You are visitor number


HOME CLASSES CLASS 29 INDEX LESSON 1 LESSON 2 LESSON 3
LESSON 4 LESSON 5 LESSON 6 LESSON 7 LESSON 8