| Pack 373's Pinewood Derby Pages |
| "A little, healthy competition is a necessary part of building strong character." |
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| Axles |
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The axles will need to be “cleaned” by removing the flash bars under the head of the nail and the casting lines on the shaft. This can be accomplished by using a small file or rough sandpaper. Clamp the end third of the axle into a drill or dremel tool and run at medium to high speed. Using 250 grit sand paper or a small file, grind away the cast lines and flash bars. Move up to 400 grit and then higher grits to smooth the surface further.
Also pay attention to the axle head. While you do not want to reduce the diameter of the head, you can taper the head outward slightly. This will reduce the amount of surface area that contacts the wheel. Take care not to taper too much (only 5 - 15 degrees) or the wheel will slide down onto the cone shape of the axle head and actually wedge itself so tightly it will no longer roll freely. Some Packs will not allow tapered axle heads, so please check your Pack's rules.
After you have smoothed with sand paper, use a medium metal polishing paste to smooth out the fine scratches left by the sandpaper. The final step will be to use a fine metal polish to put a glossy luster back to the shaft. Polish the shaft very well. A smoother shaft will result in less friction, which means a faster rolling car!
Take your time on this step. Do not rush the job, as this is the single most important step for reducing friction in your car. Contact of the spinning wheel against the axle is the only moving part on your racer.
Tip: A nicely packaged metal polishing kit is available from manufacturers of multi-tools (Dremel, Skil, etc.). They contain medium and fine polishing pastes as well as applicators and buffing pads. The kits are very reasonably priced.