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Visit Rome following 8 XVIIIth century itineraries XVIIIth century Rome in the 10 Books of Giuseppe Vasi - Le Magnificenze di Roma Antica e Moderna The Grand View of Rome by G. Vasi The Environs of Rome: Frascati, Tivoli, Albano and other small towns near Rome A 1781 map of Rome by G. Vasi An 1852 map of Rome by P. Letarouilly Rome seen by a 1905 armchair traveller in the paintings by Alberto Pisa The 14 historical districts of Rome An abridged history of Rome How to spend a peaceful day in Rome Baroque sculptors and their works The coats of arms of the popes in the monuments of Rome Pages on a specific pope Pages complementing the itineraries and the views by Giuseppe Vasi Walks in the Roman countryside and in other towns of Latium following Ferdinand Gregorovius A Directory of links to the Churches of Rome A Directory of links to the Palaces and Villas of Rome A Directory of links to the Other Monuments of Rome A Directory of Baroque Architects with links to their works A Directory of links to Monuments of Ancient Rome A Directory of links to Monuments of Medieval Rome A Directory of links to Monuments of Renaissance A Directory of links to Monuments of the Late Renaissance A list of the most noteworthy Roman Families Directories of fountains, obelisks, museums, etc. Books and guides used for developing this web site An illustrated Glossary of Art Terms Venice and the Levant Roman recollections in Florence A list of Italian towns shown in this web site Venetian Fortresses in Greece Vienna seen by an Italian XVIIIth century traveller A list of foreign towns shown in this web site
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All images © by Roberto Piperno, owner of the domain. Write to romapip@quipo.it. Text edited by Rosamie Moore.
Piazza Giudia (Book 2) (Map C3) (Day 7) (View C8) (Rione Sant'Angelo), (Rione Regola) and (Rione Sant'Eustachio)

In this page:
The plate by Giuseppe Vasi
Today's view
The house of Lorenzo Manilio
The fountain
Via della Reginella
Palazzo Cenci e S. Tommaso ai Cenci
Palazzetto Cenci
Tempietto del Carmelo
S. Maria del Pianto, S. Maria in Publicolis, S. Maria in Cacaberis

The Plate (No. 29)

Piazza Giudia

We are here in the square leading to the Ghetto where since 1556 the Jews were segregated by Pope Paulus IV (see the gate on the right). The view is taken from the green dot in the map below. In the description below the plate Vasi made reference to: 1) Portone (gate) del Ghetto degli Ebrei; 2) the gallows; 3) Casamento con iscrizione antica (building with old inscription, i.e. Casa di Lorenzo Manilio); 4) Strada di Pescaria; 5) S. Maria del Pianto. The small 1748 map shows also 6) S. Maria in Publicolis; 7) S. Maria in Cacaberis; 8) Palazzo Cenci; 9) Palazzetto Cenci; 10) Via della Reginella. The dotted line in the small map delineates the borders between Rione Sant'Eustachio (top), Rione Regola (left) and Rione Sant'Angelo (right).

Small ViewSmall View

Today

The Square today

The old Ghetto does not exist any longer although the area is still largely populated by Jews. A new large Synagogue is now a landmark along the river and a school is in the area between the old (destroyed) gate and the buildings you see in the photo. In the distance Portico d'Ottavia (or Piazza di Pescheria as it was called in the XVIIIth century).

The House of Lorenzo Manilio

The House of Lorenzo Manilio

In 1468 Lorenzo Manilio built this house for his family and decorated it with ancient fragments of Roman reliefs, with a large inscription in bold letters which looks like it came from an old temple but it did not (learn more about it). It is instead contemporary to Manilio who had his name inscribed both in Latin and Greek as the humanist he was deserved. In my page on the windows of Italy you can see the detail of one of the windows of this palace.

The Fountain

The Fountain

The fountain in the plate (by Giacomo della Porta) is now in a nearby square (Piazza delle Cinque Scuole, named after the five different rabbinical schools existing in the Ghetto).

Via della Reginella

Via della Reginella

In 1798 the French opened the gates of the Ghetto, but the return of the papal government after the Napoleonic era closed them again. This decision was criticized by many European governments and due to their pressure in 1823 Pope Leo XII added Via della Reginella, a street leading to Piazza delle Tartarughe to the area of the Ghetto. The street is therefore the only surviving part of the old quarter. Some relatively tall houses are a sign of the high density of population in the Ghetto (this also occurred in the Ghetto of Venice).

Palazzo Cenci

Palazzo Cenci

Monte Cenci is a little artificial hill derived from the ruins of the theatre of Cornelius Balbus. Here, first the Crescenzi, then the Cenci built their fortresses. The side towards Piazza delle Cinque Scuole with the Chapel of S. Tommaso (brown building to the left) was built in 1575, whilst the side towards what is today Via Arenula shows some XVIIIth century additions.
The name of the Cenci is associated with Beatrice Cenci, a young woman who instigated the murder of her father Francesco, a brute. Pope Clemens VIII Aldobrandini showed no mercy. She was put to death in Piazza del Ponte on September 11, 1599. Piazza del Ponte is the little square in front of Ponte degli Angeli: a little chapel (now lost) was used for providing religious help to the condemned. Beatrice was killed with her stepmother and two brothers. Only the youngest brother was spared, but he had to attend the executions. A presumed portrait of Beatrice by Guido Reni in the Barberini gallery inspired many writers, including Stendhal.
The vast possessions of the Cenci were confiscated and fell into the hands of the Aldobrandini. Years later the last of the Cenci took legal action and in 1699, 100 years after the death of Beatrice, the Cenci regained a large part of their possessions.

Palazzetto Cenci

Palazzetto Cenci

The Cenci owned several other buildings near their main palace. Palazzetto Cenci was designed by Martino Longhi il Vecchio in 1579. In the courtyard there is an interesting loggia with a design (serliana) mainly used for windows.

Tempietto del Carmelo

Tempietto del Carmelo

"She warned him that he must next pass the Island of the Sirens, whose beautiful voices enchanted all who sailed near. ... 'Plug your men's ears with bees-wax' advised Circe" (Robert Graves - The Greek Myths). It is said that the Jews followed Circe's advice when they were forced to listen to sermons delivered from within this XVIIIth century building attached to the house of Lorenzo Manilio.
The small temple was recently restored after it had been used as a shop window for many years. The pink building behind the temple is part of Palazzo Costaguti.

S. Maria del Pianto - S. Maria in Publicolis - S. Maria in Cacaberis

Three Churches

S. Maria del Pianto (weep) has no façade and only the dome signals the church.
S. Maria in Publicolis is a little church built near their palace by the Santacroce, who claimed to descend from Publio Valerio Publicola, a Roman consul who in 509 BC promulgated laws in favour of the lower classes. You may wish to see the Monument to Marquis Antonio Publicola Santacroce and his wife Girolama Nari by Lorenzo Ottoni inside the church.
S. Maria in Cacaberis (the corrupted name of a Roman copper vase) (also known as S. Maria dei Calderari) is a church pulled down in 1881. Its portico made use of structures of an ancient Roman building, thought to be part of Crypta Balbi, a small theatre. Recent excavations have identified the remains of Crypta Balbi between Palazzo Caetani and S. Stanislao dei Polacchi, so the origin of these massive travertine columns is still uncertain. The name of a short street departing from Via Arenula is the only remaining reference to the church (calderari = makers of cauldrons).

Excerpts from Giuseppe Vasi 1761 Itinerary related to this page:


Chiesa di s. Maria in Cacaberis
Varie sono l'interpetrazioni del nome di questa antica e piccola chiesa prima dedicata a s. Biagio, e varj sono ancora i ragionamenti, che si fanno dagli Antiquarj sopra il residuo del portico, che si vede appoggiato alla medesima, costruito tutto di travertino, ma di rozza architettura: viene però creduto essere parte del portico fatto da Gneo Ottavio, che poi fu detto ambulationes Octaviane. Poco dopo siegue la
Piazza Giudia
E' ammirabile la tazza del fonte, che quì si vede, per essere cavata dalla base di una colonna antica di marmo salino. Prese un tal nome questa piazza dagli Ebrei, i quali abusandosi della troppa condiscendenza de' sommi Pontefici, che lasciavansi abitare fra' Cristiani senza alcun segno, o distinzione, alla fine Paolo IV. ordino, che portassero al cappello un telo giallo, e che essendo essi servi di tutte le nazioni, non potessero tenere stabili, ne servitù, e però fu assegnato per loro esercizio l'arte di cucire, e di comprare e vendere cose vecchie, e per ultimo volle, che come ammorbati stessero rinchiusi in questo luogo separato, e cinto di muraglie, dove non avessero, che una sinagoga.
E' veramente notabile, che cavandosi nella piazza di questa sinagoga, furono trovate le due statue collossali, che ora stanno in Campidoglio, rappresentanti Castore e Polluce co' loro cavalli, perciò essendo ancora questo sito più alto, e quasi al pari del monte de' Cenci, fa sospettare essere stato quivi il teatro di Baldo, su le cui rovine potè essere poi stata eretta la
Chiesa di S. Tommaso, e Palazzo de' Cenci
Questa piccola chiesa dicevasi ne' tempi andati in monte mola; perchè sovrastante alle mole, che danno nel Tevere, e presso l'altro portone del Ghetto; ma essendo da Giulio II. conceduta a Rocco Cenci, fu poi da Francesco Cenci rifabbricata nel 1575. perciò prese il nome della famiglia, ed ancora del palazzo a cui è unita.
Quindi ritornando alla piazza Giudia, e voltando verso la nuova cappella coll'immagine della ss. Vergine del Carmine, che ivi sulla strada si venera, vedesi poco più avanti la
Chiesa di s. Maria in Publicolis
Il nome, che porta questa piccola chiesa ha fatto credere, che sia stata edificata da Valerio Publicola nobile Romano, ed è antica parrocchiale. Fu rinnovata l'anno 1643. dal Card. Marcello Santacroce con disegno di Gio: Ant. de' Rossi; vi sono perciò vari depositi di questa nobilissima famiglia scolpiti da Franc. Grimaldi Bolognese, con altre memorie antiche. Il quadro sull'altare maggiore, e quello a mano destra sono del Cav. Vannini.

Next plate in Book 2: Piazza Montanara
Next step in Day 7 itinerary: S. Carlo ai Catenari
Next step in your tour of Rione Sant'Angelo: Palazzo Boccapaduli
Next step in your tour of Rione Regola: Casa di Alessandro Gancia
Next step in your tour of Rione Sant'Eustachio: Teatro Argentina