MZ

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It has a very powerful Yamaha engine with a silky smooth Yamaha transmission. Coupled with German engineering it makes for a great "dual sport" motorcycle. If there is one place the bike is lacking, it's in the head lights. Because the headlight is mounted in the fairing and doesn't turn with the handlebars, it makes for some real interesting trail riding if you happen to get caught out after dark. More light was needed! The following pictures show a method I used to mount a set of Pilot 55w fog lights on my bike. I went with fog lights because they throw a much wider beam of light and I was more concerned with seeing what was to the sides and directly in front of me than I was to see far down the road. Replacing the stock headlight with a higher wattage bulb will solve the long range lighting problem.</div> <div>  I tried using the mounting brackets that came with the Pilot lights but they just didn't work in the area I wanted to use them. I wanted the lights mounted to each side of the headlight and the turn signals offered a perfect perch for them. In the pictures you can see how I machined a couple of brackets to mount the lights on. The brackets were machined out of  a couple of pieces of  6061 billet aluminum. These mounts were in turn mounted to the turn signal lights with a couple of stainless steel bolts and </div> <div> nylon insert lock nuts.</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="10dc8c50.jpg" border=0 width="200" height="197" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">    <IMG SRC="10fc8c20.jpg" border=0 width="200" height="194" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"> </div> <bR> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="113c8ab0.jpg" border=0 width="200" height="171" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div>   Once the lights were mounted, I wired in a 30 amp relay directly to the battery and an illuminated rocker switch was mounted next to the speedometer. The switch was wired through a switched wire in the fuse box. That way when the ignition switch is turned off, the lights go out no matter what position the rocker switch is in. No chance of a dead battery.</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div>  <A NAME="milled_fork_brace_for_the_mz_baghira"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></div> <div> <B>MILLED FORK BRACE FOR THE MZ BAGHIRA</b></div> <bR> <div> <B> </b><FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#FFFFCC" FACE="Arial" > Take one day out of work due to a blizzard, add a piece of 6061 billet aluminum and a milling machine and whip up a fork brace for the MZ Baghira. I started out with a piece of 6061 aluminum, 1" X  4" X  12". After making a huge pile of chips I had the basic brace. Once that was done, I split it down the center on the band saw, drilled and tapped four holes to receive four 1/4-20 stainless steel hex head bolts to hold the two halves together. A bit of sanding on the belt sander and a trip through the bead blaster and it's finished.  I have no idea whether this is needed or not on this bike, but I've seen them on other Motards and I I just thought it looked rather neat! </FONT></div> <bR> <bR> <div>                                  <IMG SRC="16bb4870.jpg" border=0 width="180" height="135" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">   <IMG SRC="16dc8960.jpg" border=0 width="200" height="150" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">  <IMG SRC="16fb4870.jpg" border=0 width="180" height="135" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="171b4870.jpg" border=0 width="180" height="135" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id17.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Various Motorcycle ARTICLES"><U><B>A New Air Filter for the MZ Baghira</b></U></A></div> <bR> <div>      The MZ Baghira is a wonderful motorcycle, but I wasn't enamored with the "Skull cap" type air filter. It had to go and a new improved version had to be fabricated. I started out by finding the largest pleated type air filter I could find that would fit in the air box. This required a trip to the local Auto-Zone store and the opening of about two dozen air filter boxes until one was found that would work with my plan. Auto-Zone carries Deutsch Precision Filters and the A-850 was the one that fit the bill. If you don't have an Auto-Zone in your area, this is the same filter as FRAM CA3785, or Purolator AF3426, or Motorcraft FA970. </div> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="146c8960.jpg" border=0 width="200" height="150" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div>   Once a filter was selected, a bracket needed to be fabricated to hold it against the carburetor intake. I used a piece of 3/16" aluminum plate to make the backing plate. To allow more air to pass through the filter, I wanted to tilt it up a bit and free up the bottom area of the filter. For this I used a piece of marine plywood which I coated with marine grade epoxy.</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="148af8b0.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="139" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">    <IMG SRC="14aaf850.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="133" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">  <IMG SRC="14caf9b0.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="155" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">  <IMG SRC="14eafce0.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="206" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div>  A picture tells a thousand words, and I think you can see how the bracket goes together and the filter will be seated to it.</div> <div>  Once the bracket was done, I mounted it in the airbox with a couple of pop rivets and used 3M Marine grade silicone sealer to bond the bracket to the air box.</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="150c8960.jpg" border=0 width="200" height="150" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div>   This is a shot of the bracket installed in the airbox. I made a small shelf at the bottom of the filter plate to stop any possibility of the filter moving down when the going gets rough. I also used three plastic "L" brackets to locate the filter from within. This way the filter will not move with vibration or a bumpy road.</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="152c8960.jpg" border=0 width="200" height="150" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">                   <IMG SRC="154c8ae0.jpg" border=0 width="200" height="174" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div>   These two pictures show the air box with the filter installed and the aluminum cover in place.</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="156c8960.jpg" border=0 width="200" height="150" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div>   And finally, a threaded rod passes through the cover plate and through the air box. When this nut is tightened up, the filter is sandwiched between the bracket and the cover forming an air tight situation.</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="158af9e0.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="158" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">  <IMG SRC="15ac86d0.jpg" border=0 width="200" height="109" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div>   Here is the factory "skull cap" type filter (after the fire). The fire was started by using the throttle when starting the bike after the owners manual clearly states in bold letters...."Do Not Touch The Throttle When Starting!"  Lots of smoke, but fortunately no damage. Live and learn!</div> <bR> <div>   Hope you enjoyed this little project. </div> </td> </tr></table></body>