|
|
|
Shortwave This toy has a five foot wingspan, 1880 verticals, 2300 leading edge, and
some scrap fabric. I sketched half
of the sail on a pizza box allowing for a 5 foot wingspan.
Bridling was done by eye on one side, then tied on the other side using a
ruler to make the legs match. Most seams are sewn with a
three-stitch zigzag to resist stretching and trailing edges are straight
stitched. The nocks are made from plugged and drilled
aluminum tubing. The LE curve was drawn on the fabric with the tensioned spar as
a guide so the sail is evenly tensioned. The two
32" LE
spars can be cheaply replaced as I certainly will shatter them. [Boy was this
true] Plans are to bash this mini before investing in the
materials for an 6.5 footer but at this size it works very well. A slightly
bigger one with the same weight might increase the wind range (see
below). The better
handling and response of a "5-stick" design is the way to go.
This
was made
for the price of a good six-pack not including the broken spars. Cheers!
Shortwave
Lite The low-wind abilities of my first one limited its airtime in the light winds here in California. A friend suggested replacing the spars with Easton graphite-wrapped aluminum arrow shafts instead of the popular Skyshark spars to stiffen it and save weight, while maintaining durability. A new kite was planned even before I got the spars home. The light-fabric sail has increased area along the trailing edge especially in the middle. Instead of sewn fabric strips to prevent stretch along the vertical spars where the weave is at an angle, a small Dacron line is sewn to the back of the sail with a grooved presser foot. A bare Spectra bridle reduces wind drag and the brightest fabrics are used, since this is a hot little kite. The kite took a few hours to sew.. I didn't bother making a bag for it since it fits in the car easily, and the first one never gets folded up anyway. I
just got in from flying it and can't get over how well it performs.
The wind range must be about 2-18 mph with a nice floaty feel that
turns into speed as the gusts hit. Very controllable in reverse
flight,
floats, dive-stop and reversed slides. It's only fault seems to be
re-launching from a flat position on the ground, and that can be dealt
with. Those graphite/aluminum spars bring the entire
weight down to 4.5 ounces while dramatically adding stiffness. This is
the best quad stunt kite I have, and it fools me into thinking I fly
better. Too Heavy
Plans are from astronomer and
kite maker Bjarne Madsen, who named it for the W-shaped constellation.
The first time
I flew it was during unusually high winds (23 mph) at the windiest place in
town. It flew great despite my lack of any four-line experience and the awful
dacron line. I was having so much fun doing backward launches and spins I
didn't want to go home. Next time out in lighter air it fell out of the sky at
each lull in the wind and was a general motherbear. When I showed it to Victor
at the kite store he groaned as he picked it up and said "well, it's a
good high-wind kite!" Live and learn. Using heavy screen-door mesh for the screening was
also a silly move. The rest of the kite works well but since it was easy to
build I'll make another. I was about to cut up my blue Cassiopeia for parts but took my wife’s
advice to fly it first. Wow! The wind was good that day and it flew beautifully!
Maybe a lighter sail would help, but this is my high wind quad now. Charlie the
kite sage convinced me to cut off the bridle and simply connect to the vertical
spar ends. Works well without it but sometimes flips over
backward so the spars are on front. In high wind the kite is hard
to control and sometimes overpowered in gusty 10-25mph winds, so I cut triangular holes in the
middle of each wing and stitched on some window screening. Instant vented kite,
taking about 15 minutes. I cut triangular vents to allow easy enlargement
later if more venting is wanted, and on such a plain-looking kite the vents
seem decorative. The kite flies very controllably in heavier winds, although now
a bridle is added, preventing the kite from flipping over. The
sail is a bit over-tensioned in this picture. Light-wind Cassiopeia
Cassiopeia
SUL
This one was made to improve on my first crude
Cassiopeia. This kite was scaled 112% to fit the top spar I pieced together from
broken Shockwave SUL tubing that was given to me. The verticals are Beman UL 21 tubing and the fabric is
crisp 3/4 ounce nylon. The SUL tubing has proven heavy for this kite and will
be replaced with something else. This kite was made pretty much according to the Cassiopeia
plans. Credit for the color design belongs to an unknown maker whose kites
appear on the web. This is one of my best-flying kites but the
narrow center makes wing-flipping too common. Medium-wind
flying is improved due to the light spars. Each
time I make one of these I am surprised how easy and fast it is to make.
My
sewing skills must be improving...maybe not. Photo:
Bug Light Park, South Portland, Maine. Short Stack This design is a mini, a bit under 4 feet long, made of
Icarex and 080 graphite rods with a 48" 090 graphite rod bent to tension
the sail. Most edges are catenary cut to spread the tension along the
edges to
reduce the noisy buzzing of Dacron. Attachment loops at the ends of the vertical
spars are connected to 30 pound, 30 foot lines with light handles made of 1/8 inch
aluminum rod with automotive fuel line for grips. Flight is touchy unless the
wind is smooth but spins, reverse flight and hovering are much like with the
larger quads. The tiny lines are best wrapped on two winders to avoid a
windblown tangle. Total cost with lines was about $12. The lines could be 12 feet
longer and the leading edge might use a thin rod through the hem between the
verticals to prevent noise on larger versions. A good kite to pull out when the
wind is too light for other kites.
Tri-pale
First flight showed the effects of too much stiffness.
The kite is
too flat and has no directional stability. The top tow points are now moved
outboard of the vertical spar tops by six inches to allow the top spar to curve
back in the center. The tails, while maybe not needed, look flashy. When the
kite lands nose down it can be rocked like a rocking chair into forward flight.
When it lands flat on the ground it stays there. The center of effort is
too low for stable forward flight and a vented panel across the top of the
red design might fix that but would detract in other ways. I've since replaced the top spar with 1960 fiberglass solid
rod after 1570
graphite tube snapped on installation. This makes a more flexible kite but one
that still has problems. A Cassiopeia- type bridle helps greatly and now it
behaves well until it reaches the upper half of the window, where it glides towards
the pilot and hits the ground. It is, at least, a very durable kite!
NASA Para-wing (NPW5) Flying a nice borrowed Slingshot B3 meter brought a serious case of big kite envy. Thinking it was time to get into traction (?) the cheap and cheerful NPW5 plans of Peter de Jong seemed just the ticket. His Windows freeware calculates the dimensions for the entire kite and bridle based on the height of kite you specify. He supplies detailed instructions that describe strongly taped seams, a logical way to make the bridle work for both quad and dual line flying, and a 2:1 purchase on the brake lines to make them work more smoothly. The top lines fly the kite and the brake lines are used to de-power it. By putting upper and lower pigtails together through the single lark's head it becomes a two-line flier. I used a 70-inch vertical height to give my first kite a flat area of around 4 square meters using 1/2-ounce nylon, and bought some 300-pound top lines and 150-pound brake lines and a spool of 75-pound Dacron for the bridle. The aluminum tube handles I usually use are now strengthened with dowel plugs in the ends with heavy pigtails. For two-line flying a 2-foot hardwood dowel with grips and pigtails works well. The left grip has a wrist strap to keep the bar from becoming a projectile. If the bar is released, the kite collapses and spins. After re-launch just pull back on the non-strapped hand until the lines untwist. The kite rolls up to about a 6 x 14-inch cylinder. When the lines are removed I immediately tie the tow points to the nose to avoid making a mess of the bridle. Seems to work so far… Right from the start this kite is a success.
After connecting the lines a
short pull on the handles transforms it from a pile of cloth to a flying
tractor. Luckily the bridle needed no adjustment other than trimming some
loose ends to reduce snags. It flies in the lightest wind, and pulls enough to
lift me from a sitting to standing position. In 10-15 mph winds, sliding along on
the grass is great fun as long as there is room to stop and no sharp objects
around. Within the rather limited 160 degree window it spins and turns precisely, and is
easy to land and re-launch without help. Some who have tried it seem impressed
by the power and precision. For a kite builder looking for a first power kite,
this is a great project. I'm glad I didn't make a larger one, at least until I
learn to control this one. I'm thinking about making a smaller one, maybe 2.5
meters, for really high winds. Although a foil design has many obvious
advantages, the
NPW5 is pretty impressive, especially for a kite made for less than $10 worth of
material .
Bill Painter, alias NPWBill, has developed much better ways to make this kite and any NPW5 builder would do well to check his cool website (links). He has a cascade bridle that speeds the kite's flight by eliminating drag and ways to sew the kite more precisely and lots of pictures of different designs. He is working on NPW9 kites lately, along with a group of creative kite makers around the world A U.S. agency called NASA actually designed the NPW5 and NPW9. HQ kites has purchased the rights to use NPW5 and NPW9 as trade names.
4m Eliminator
This kite possibly pulls harder than some larger commercial
kites, since the area is flat, there is no wasted area not directly
facing the wind. This isn't the easiest kite to turn, but the bridle's
irregularity is probably the cause of the distortion. It seems to turn
better by braking the following wingtip slightly.
The window seems huge, which
should be great for buggying. It pulls near the edge and top very well
and launches easily from nose up or down positions. This kite is as powerful, but not
as easy to fly as a borrowed Advance Off-Road 5.4 that I've been
flying. It is fun to see what a basic rectangular kite is capable of,
and learn how things work. Deka One
freezing January day, I got to fly a Deca A1 kite. The smooth and responsive
flight in high winds was impressive and was a refreshing change from flapping
flat quads, so I made a model of thread and bamboo slivers and sketched my
own version. Since the Deca is a patented kite no comprehensive
plans are available, so I just guessed at dimensions and materials.
One
mistake was making the center section too wide, causing fluttering, so I
shortened it in the middle leaving an unsightly seam. It took a while
to get the lines all tensioned correctly, but the kite flies better
than expected but not better than a real one. A larger
multi-paneled one is in my sketchbook to
perform in lighter air. I have been lucky
enough to fly a variety of Deca models and the Deca 15 is my favorite.
Deka 6 Quad My green Deka always seems too wind hungry, so I made this larger one using lighter materials. The sail is broad seamed with six panels, giving it a 3D shape. Fabric is half-ounce North nylon and spars are all Easton A/C tubing in 2600 and 2300 diameters. Kevlar fabric loops form the six tie points. The main spar has both internal and external ferrules for strength, with Kite Studio machined end caps fitted to all spars. 100 pound braided Dacron forms the web of lines holding it all together. The wrinkled center seam was re-sewn to smooth the sail right after this shot. It flies
pretty well but the main spar is a few centimeters too short and the
lacks stiffness to keep the sail tight at the leading edge. Perhaps
the line adjustments account for some of that fault. These kites
take time to get right, but the unique flight makes it worthwhile. As the Deca is a patented kite made by Guildworks, posting plans wouldn't be right and also I wouldn't want to have to describe how to adjust those lines. My design is simply a rough approximation from looking at the kite and some pictures of it and took a long time to get working. You could do the same or simply buy one. Some Decas were made by HQ Invento for a while and turn up for sale used. The tie-dyed A1 or the Deca 15 are works of art and should hold their value better than mass-market kites.
|