| Book
Review
The Essential Reference Vegetables from Amaranth to Zucchini
Schneider, Elizabeth. Photographs by Amos Chan. New York: Harper Collins.
2001. 777 pp. $ 60.00 USA, $ 89.95 Canada.
This was a hard book to review because I was continually distracted
from a critical look by the sheer
pleasure of reading this large volume. The title states that there are 500
recipes and 275 photographs. The introduction begins with a list of the
main vegetable entries, numbering about 80. Ms. Schneider’s definition
of vegetables is somewhat idiosyncratic, more like a grocers than a
botanists. I could understand why she didn’t list melons, clearly
fruits. And so I understood why she didn’t list tomatoes which are also
fruits .when she then included eggplant and cucumber and bread fruit I
threw up my hands. This book is mostly about what we call vegetables in
the kitchen.
A sample chapter is on Tomatillo. This "tart queen of salsa and
mole" is a native of central America and sometimes known as the
Mexican Husk Tomato. Indeed it is like the Tomato and Potato and Eggplant
a member of the Solanaceae. It grows with a husk similar to the American
Ground Cherry and Cape Gooseberry and is commonly green. They are not
ordinarily eaten raw but added to sauces and broths. She comments (in each
case) on selection, storage, preparation and cooking. Recipes include: Herbed Tomatillo and Grape Salsa, Tomatillo Gazpacho and
Salmon Poached on a Bed of Tomatillos, Onion and Chili. The later offering
a tart green sauce to contrast the richness of the salmon. We plan to try
this soon. A special feature of these chapters is a section called
"Pros Propose" in which prominent chefs offer 5 or 6 alternative
ways of using the vegetable. This section offers culinary ideas rather
than detailed recipes.
As noted she writes about what interests her. Eight pages on specialty
potatoes lists numerous varieties but only two recipes. However Pros
Proposes includes 8 suggestions including baked eggs with white truffles
and potatoes and warm potatoes salad with creme fraiche.
Not every entree is common. The section on potatoes is followed by 4
pages on Puff Balls and 4 pages on
Purslane.
Color photographs by Amos Chan are clear and among the best I have ever
seen in a food or plant text. The more exotic entrees are well enough done
that the reader will have no trouble identifying them. In the front of the
book recipes are listed by category: appetizers, salads, main dishes,
pasta and eggs and vegetable sides and condiments.
This is a wonderful book fun to read and to use. Of all the books under
our Christmas tree this was the one that everyone picked up.
Dr. John |