(Thank you to Ruth Anna for the
directions/idea for this how to page! Pictures and some directions provided by me and Lilly R.!)
Have
you wanted to sew an overlay on your ELD # 205, #204,#203, #108, #106, #109 or
even #201 but it just didn't look right? Maybe you didn't like the way the
top stitching looked, or you wanted your overlay to not be that
noticeable. Well then you need to start Sewing on the Inside! By
following these few basic (but a little tricky-depending on the fabric you're
using) directions, you will open up a whole new world of designs for your
nursing wardrobe. These directions can be used for any pattern that you
have in your stash or any that you have designed that use a vertical overlay.
It should be
noted that these instructions are assuming that you have applied a vertical
overlay before using the topstitch method which is the common construction
method used for making nursing tops/bodices by Elizabeth
Lee Designs and Mother Nurture.
If you haven't applied an overlay using the topstitch method, it is recommended
you buy one of their patterns so that you can see how it is done so you get the
general idea of how the overlay and it's openings work.
Before I learned
this technique, I could never get a top or dress with a vertical overlay to lay
right. It always gapped and made my outfit look like an obvious nursing
dress. I had always thought that the vertical overlay was a look that I
couldn't pull off. Well, after trying Ruth Anna's sewing on the inside
directions, I made two dresses using ELD's #108 and they are now my two favorite
nursing dresses! By raising the waistline on this dress I now can wear it
long into my new pregnancy and continue nursing my son Benjamin! Thank you
Ruth Anna!
First, cut two overlay pieces. The top piece that will show and
the lining piece. The lining can be cut out of a different fabric or the
same fabric as your top piece. Some people find that when doing
this technique on a sweatshirt, it's too hot and bulky to use sweatshirt
fabric for both pieces, so they use a nice light knit for the
lining. Take a look at your fabric and adapt accordingly.
Next, put your
overlay and lining right sides together and sew using a 5/8" seam
allowance (or whatever your pattern calls for the overlay). Finish
your seam allowances if you wish (I use a serger or three step zig zag).
Turn and press your overlay. It should be one piece now. It
will now be like a tube of fabric with the overlay on top and the lining
underneath. All seam allowances are now encased in the overlay.
Here are my overlay and
lining.
Here they are sewn together.
Here is how Lily sewed her
lining onto her overlay. Notice how she made the lining shorter to
cut down on the bulk in the hem.
Click on thumbnails for larger picture.
After
having turned the overlay right side out, position it over the bodice
front again according to the instructions (just as you would if you were
going to topstitch the overlay on the bodice), and pin it to the bodice
front. This pinning is to get the overlay properly placed and hold it
there as you begin shifting it out of place in subsequent steps.
Hold the shirt front on you and see where you want your
nursing openings. Make sure to make them big enough for easy
access. Mark where you will want the nursing opening to
end at the top and bottom of your overlay. You may want to do something like place two pins at these
points or you may want to use a marking pen or some chalk. This is so
you know where to stop when sewing the overlay. (Just like when applying the
overlay by topstitching). It's better to start out with a larger
opening. Once your shirt/dress is completed try on your dress and see
if the openings are okay. If they are too large, it will be easier to
make them smaller than taking out stitching to make them bigger.
The above photo compliments of Lily R.
Click on thumbnails for larger picture.
Carefully
holding the overlay in the pinned position transfer the pins, one at a
time, from the outside of the overlay to the inside of your overlay
tube. Place the pins on or close to the seam line.
When you have
all the pins transferred, stitch along the seam line, where the overlay
is sewn to the lining. Backstitch at the ends of the
nursing opening.
You may find that you need to reinforce your opening to avoid getting
holes in your shirt where the overlay is attached to your top.
Lily recommends sewing a L stitch to reinforce at the opening similar to
what is done on pockets.
Outside view
Inside view
When the seam is sewn, straighten everything out. You should find
that the overlay lies on the bodice front much the same as it did when
you were pinning it to begin with, but there is no topstitching to be
seen along the overlay line. Now is the time to cut your nursing
opening in the back if you have not done so already (I always wait until
after I've finished attaching my overlay to cut my opening, otherwise I
find my bodice stretches out and the process becomes more
difficult. You may not find this to be the case for you.)
Click on thumbnail for larger picture.
Here
are a couple of pictures of bodices using the "sewing on the
inside" technique. As you can see it's hard to see that
there's even an overlay. That's the idea! You will just love
how these bodices lay on you! No more stiff edges or openings!
The purple dress
was made out of a rayon/polyester blend peachskin type of
material. The patterned bodice was made from a 100% rayon.
The green flowered skimmer was made from 100% rayon.
Here are a couple of tops Lily made using the technique.
If you have any questions or need any clarification, please
write me!
