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Malaysia & Singapore Trip 2004
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Hope you enjoy the article about my trip to Malaysia & Singapore (aka In Search of Hok San History).

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Orange segements arranged to spell lucky characters out, Wang (emperor) and 8.

Lion Dancing

Part of the training when I go to Malaysia is lion dance performances and the thing that surprises me is the sheer volume of performances done by my Shifu. On this visit, I watched the opening of a new tile factory & showroom and the opening of the new Meiban Dyson washing machine plant, which by coincedence had some people from England there doing the opening.

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A few of Shifu's team with the new lions

I travelled to Singapore on the evening of my Birthday with my Shifu and some of his team. We arrived late and ended up staying in probably one of the worst hotels in Singapore. The rooms we stayed in were designed for two people max but we ended up four guys to a room.

We pulled the mattress off the base so that 2 of us could sleep on the mattress and the other 2 on the base. But the room was too small and the mattress was half on the base, so the guys on the mattress were sleeping at an angle. Also the air conditioning was broken, the mosquitoes had a field day and to top it off the room had a bad smell.

The guy next to me must have been missing his wife because in his sleep he put his hand across me, I got up like a shot just in case he started kissing me. Nevertheless to say I did not get much sleep that night and ended up playing games on my hand phone. We had breakfast outside the Ri Hing Dragon & Lion Dance Centre. The noodles were good but the coffee tasted like lighter fuel but I drank it to keep myself awake.

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Check out the beautiful embroided banner on the side of the truck we took to the performance

We arrived at the venue in an open top lorry with the troupes flag blowing in the wind and the team playing the drum and cymbals on the way. The event that we was participating in was The Sacred Buddha Tooth Relic Exhibition 2004 at the Singapore Expo, I was in one of the 30 new lions that was having it eyes dotted for the occasion as part of the Opening Ceremony. It was a high profile event with guests going thru a metal detector and a bag search to be able to see the exhibition. After the VIPs dotted the eyes we done a waking up sequence and a simplified Bai Si Men (bow to 4 doors) routine that was done in unison also 2 dragons and 9 Koi carp fish were playing and I would imagine looked pretty impressive from the audiences point of view.

One of the memories that I will remember from that day was the looks on the faces of the locals when they say me in a Ri Hing uniform coming out of the lion. I think they could not quite understand why there was a white guy playing lion dance in Singapore.

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Ever wondered what a 100 liondancers with 2 dragons, 9 fish and 30 lions looked like.

Over the next few days, I tagged along with shifu as he went to teach his classes this included Kuan Ti Temple in Pelangi, Zhao Ta Yao Shuai Desa Harmoni, and MCA in Kang Kar Pulai. Unfortunately, I did not manage to go to see Kota Tinggi Wei Wu who have competed in the Nationals and at the Genting World Championships and Taman Johor MCA this time. These teams have a good standard and I always learn a few new innovations from them.

Kung Fu

Shifu taught me the Hong Quan Guan Dao routine that includes movements such as Guan Gong stroking his beard and riding his horse. The first few days of training were hell as the heat just drained the energy from me as soon as I started training, but after a week, I was fine and had no problems as I had also managed to overcome the sore arms and shoulders gained from training with the Guan Dao. The first time I saw the Guan Dao routine performed my heart sank a little as I realised how long the routine was and I was not very confident with spinning the guan dao round my neck. However, I managed to nail the routine in 3 sessions thanks to my camcorder and a lot of free time; this really seemed to impress Shifu.

Singapore

On the weekend, I headed over to Singapore, when I got thru customs and outside it seemed to be a lot hotter than Malaysia. Therefore, I made a beeline for the air-conditioned coolness of McDonalds in Woodlands, where I found that they put some nasty little disc of meat in the Egg Mcmuffins, is this a Singaporean thing?

After MickeyDs I caught a cab to Chinatown, I wondered around for a while and before long, I got fed up with Indian guys calling me mate and trying to entice me into their store and I had been thru all the floors of the Yue Hua Store.

It was only 11am, my bag felt like a ton of bricks in the humid weather, and I was not due to stay at my wifes auntie house until the evening so that meant carrying the bag round all day. I decided to take an executive decision, the whole purpose of the trip was to come and see the Hok San Assoc, and I had stumbled across it in Kreta Ayer Rd on my walkabout around Chinatown.

Therefore, I came up with the idea to find a hotel nearest to the Hok San Assoc, that Hotel was the Yes Hotel in Smith Street. The room was just big enough to fit a double bed and a shower unit the room was pretty grotty but the air con and shower was working so that was all that mattered. They had some funny people in the hotel; I witnessed a guy with a lady friend request the price for only 2 hours, now why would you only want a room for 2 hours?

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Left to Right: Ah Gao, Lioncity, Vincent Hopkins

Wedding

Ah Gao had arranged to meet me at a train station I cannot remember the name of mainly because I caught a cab there. My wife had reminded me to say Ah Gao in a high tone because if I said it in a low tone it would sound like dog instead of tall or high. Anyway, the reason I was meeting Mr. Tall or Ah Gao was that Lioncity from SGWutan.com had invited me to his wedding.

The wedding took place in a Buddhist temple that was impressive with thousands of Kuan Yin statues flanking both walls. This was the first time I had witnessed a Buddhist wedding and it included the monks chanting sutras. We were asked to place our palms together while the monks chanted which seemed to go on for an eternity. I was quite glad that I managed to hold my palms together for the whole sutra even though my arms were killing. I even managed to outlast some of the locals sitting behind.

After the ceremony, Lioncity presented me with a  nice t-shirt sporting the SGWutan.com logo and we took some pictures together

Boon Lay

I met up with Jeffery Tan who coaches Boon Lay Community Centre Dragon & Lion Dance Troupe and Wen Yang. I originally met Jeffery in Jingmen, China when he was with the Sichuan Tian team. We were attending an International competition, which went badly for my team as I dropped the head player during practise and that kind of put an end to any hopes of performing on the jongs.

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Me and the Boon Lay CC Dragon & Lion Dance Troupe

Jeffrey very kindly took time out to invite me to his troupes training session, which takes place at the Boon Lay community centre. The training I saw took place in the outdoor basketball court as they were practising on the gao jong (poles). He had two teams training for an upcoming competition, one of the head players was walking with a limp as he had an accident before I arrived but still managed to jump like around like a springhare. Accidents are obviously a major concern for any team training on poles but I have to hand it to Jeffery on the safety side of things as he had many crash mats along the entire length of the poles.

Also, the really great thing to see was the little kids (I think they were around 11 years old) jumping on top of the poles with some skill. Other teams I have visited have also had young kids really focused on their training and it is great to see because most kids are only focused when they are playing on their game boy or sending sms to each other.

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This beautiful lion is and example of the lion maker's work

Jeffery got his troupe to perform a dragon dance that was good even though he said they have not practised for a few months. Afterwards he took me to a local hawker centre for dinner and I managed to impress one of the food stall owners with my four words of Mandarin. After dinner, he took me to see a dragon and lion manufacturer, this guy works from his house but creates some really beautiful lions. I noticed that he tends to go for the tiger claw (3 stripes) design on the skin, which is really a Singapore trademark. He had a huge stack of photos of lions that he has made and supplied to teams all over the World. He mentioned that he does most of his work during the night as it is the only time when he concetrate, because during the day there a lot of disturbances such as the telephone. He also makes the 9 Koi Carp fish that accompany the Dragon dance. The fish are meant to form into the dragon and you will see they all look different and bring their own qualities to the dragon.

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An example of the type of flags that he makes.

The next day Jeffery took me to a company that makes flags and "wow" the flags they made were really the best I have seen. Jeffery mentioned to me that he hates to come to this place because he always ends up ordering new stuff. I cannot blame him, because I wanted to order something but then the owner made the mistake of giving me a catalogue with all the designs and my brain went into meltdown by the sheer volume of designs. When i visitied they were making a standard (Big Centre Flag) for a Japanese troupe. The things that make his flags stand out are the flourescent inks and fabrics he uses. These make the flags quite expensive but the extra cost is worth it.

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The famous Hok San Association's building. can you spot the dragon in the top window

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Left to right: Chan Shifu, Vincnet Hopkins, Jeffrey Tan

Singapore Hoksan Assoc

I was welcomed by Chan Shifu and lion city (SGWutan.com) into the Hok San Assoc, which stands on Kreta Ayer Road and is very close to China town. The building is three storeys high with distinctive yellow and black flags hanging on the outside of the building. The ground floor is where the practise takes place and they have a few larger than normal drums painted yellow with the characters hok san painted on the front. My Shifu said that they are very particular with their drums and get rid of drums that do not make the mark. They also allowed me to handle one of their original lions, which is very old and weighed a ton, Thank god for modern lightweight lions. Chan Shifu showed me how they played Ji Hua Tou, Zhi Zhan, Cha Shen with the lion and the drum. He also showed me how to follow the lion from Mi Dian into Ding Dian and how to show the expression and body shape of the lion. It was very interesting, I hope that next time I can stay for a bit longer to learn more.

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The Original Kwong Siew Wai Kuan

Kwong Siew Wai Kuan

Kwong Siew opened a new branch in Permas Jaya, this is where all the hung gar and lion dance training takes place, the original building is still in place on Jalan Wong Ah Fook. Jalan Wong Ah Fook was actually named after a rich Chinese immigrant who helped develop the area and the Kwong Siew premises was donated by him in the late 1800s. The Kwong Siew Wai Kuan was built for immigrants from Canton to meet up with fellow Cantonese immigants. There is also a Hainanese Associaton and a Hokkien Association represesenting people from those regions. One of the seniors told me that  they only used to teach Cantonese people Hong Quan and Lion Dance. Unfortuantley some of these associations are not attracting the new generation to their activities like they used too and a lot of these places are a pale comparison of what they used to be.

The new branch in Permas Jaya is a 3-storey building and boasts the full set of 18 weapons displayed beside an altar to Kuan Gong.

This new branch is much better for training as the original building was right next to City Square which is a big shopping centre and is now owned by the Singapore government (is Singapore starting to buy up JB?).

It is also very close to the customs check point, so that area is extremely busy and when you trained you use to draw an audience, a couple of times I felt tempted to go round with a hat collecting money from the audience.

On this visit, I managed to witness the 5-element fist, arrow fist, tiger fork and double broadswords being played by students. My Shifus senior and his disciple Mr. Goh took me for Yum Cha (drink tea); actually, I opted for Ais Milo (ice Milo) and told me about the Kwong Siews history and recent activities. Their main concern was that there is no interest from the new generation in the traditional arts and we discussed various ways in which we could re-kindle and maintain an interest.

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Left to Right: Lee Eng Chin, Vincent Hopkins, Leong Thik Thong

Press Conference

Towards the end of my stay, I took a coach down to Kuala Lumpur for a press conference, which had been organised by the Federal State & Selangor dragon & Lion Dance Assoc. My brother-in-law booked me into the KL Plaza, which is on Jalan Bukit Bintang (Starhill Road).

Jalan Bukit Bintang is one of the main shopping streets in KL, there are many fashionable shops, and I even found a Manchester Unitied Football Club Merchandise shop in a shopping centre called Lot 10. There is also another much older shopping centre called Sungai Wang (meaning River of Money) which must have the most hand phone shops under one roof in the world. 

I can also give you a tip as there are these pimps everywhere and they keep handing you their cards after about the 4th card I was fed up so instead of throwing them in the bin, I kept it. The next time a pimp went to give me a card I just held up the card and said I got one already and I'll call you later. It worked like a dream while other foreigners were getting hassled, I felt like I was parting the red sea with my new trick.

The press conference was mainly to publish the upcoming Genting World Championships and they asked some questions about lion dance in the UK and Europe. Chairman Leong Lik Thong from The Selangor & Federal State Dragon & Lion Dance Association fielded questions from Journalists about the championships and about an upcoming China versus Malaysia lion dance competition. I managed to ask Mr Leong for advice on how to run a lion dance championships as they have been co-organising the Genting Championships for around 10 years now. At the end I presented them with a framed calligraphy scroll and they presented me with an engaved shield.

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24 Season Drums set out for practise

24 season drums

It was around 8.30am and I was just waking after having a dream about someone playing the drum and an annoyed neighbour complaining about the noise. All of a sudden, I heard the distinctive rat tat tat on the side of a drum, was I still dreaming? No, now I heard the beat of the drum coming from somewhere near my window. I rushed over pulled open the curtains and looked down; I saw four rows of drums in a 5,6,7,6 formation. I could not believe my luck there was a 24 seasons drum practise session taking place right outside my window. I did not hesitate as I quickly unpacked my camcorder and recorded around 30 minutes of footage. I went out for the rest of the day and when I came back, there was a more senior team doing a full dress rehearsal.

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Siow Sifu and Vincent Hopkins

Siow sifu

I arranged for Siow Sifu to deliver my new lions to the airport and glad to see all the custom styling I had asked for was correct. I managed to spend 20 minutes with him and asked some questions about lion dance and the Hok San style. He very kindly gave me a course book from the recent Kun Seng Keng Workshop. The notes are very well put together and has made me think about attending his 2nd workshop.

The thing that impresses me about Siow sifu is that his answers are clear and logical; he will not give you a load of pap that sometimes I have had the misfortune to hear from other people. After my talk with Siow Sifu, I felt motivated to come back to England and teach with a renewed vigour.

Summary
 
Love Hate
Malaysians and Singaporeans have a love hate relationship. Singaporeans love coming to Malaysia for the cheaper prices but look down on the backwardness of Malaysia in comparison to their own country. The Malaysians love Singapore's modern and succesful country but hate their perceived aggorance.
It is quite common to see a brand new Mercedes being drive around JB with the first two letters SG on the number plate, this means the car is from Singapore. It is also common to see a local car cutting in front of a Singaporean car, this will normaly result in the SG car horn the local car. You may well then hear the Malaysian driver in you car say "Beep what la". Why come to our country and beep la. 
 
Johor Bahru vs Kuala Lumpur
In terms of food I prefer JB to KL mainly because I don't seem to get as many people ripping me off in JB. Maybe this is because things are more exepensive in JB or because I am more comfortable in JB, I don't know. I will give you an example: In JB I went to a hawker store that I never have been before, I get some rice and dofu and various vegetables. The guy at the counter charges me RM$2. In KL I go to hawker store ask for noodles with vegetables, the guy charges me RM$8. I make a fuss saying how he's trying rip me off, he trys to give some lame excuse about Chinese mushrooms costing a lot.
 
In terms of taxis then KL is much better for some unknown reason taxi drivers in JB don't want to pick up anyone around the town centre. I mean there I am a white guy ready to be charged 4 times the normal rate and they don't want to stop. Then when you do manage to get one to stop they are not interested unless you are going to Senai Airport.
 
Top Tips
 
How Much!!
Never say anything is cheap, if you do the local people will suffer as traders put prices up. It may be cheap for you but it isn;t for local people. When in Malaysia don't think in exchange rate terms think in local currency so treat RM$1 as US$1 or UKŁ1.
 
Don't show your face
If you are a non-asian travelling with local people let them go into get discounts. Once an owner see you it is very difficult to get a good bargain.
 
Walk away
If you feel you are getting ripped off don't buy it. There is always someone else round the corner keen for your business. But be careful in the markets a lot of the stalls are operated by one boss and if they find out you are giving a lot of hassle to their people, you better be able to run fast. This is also common in shoppping centres you will find the stores all have the same prices because they are owned by one boss.
 
Toilet Paper
Always keep some with you because after you have paid 20 Sens for a Tom Tit (s**t) and relieved yourself in the squatty toilet, you will be scratching your head about what to do with the hose pipe.

Visitors since 4 September 2004

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