- Soul Surfing
is what it used to be called. Since Endless Summer II, it's being called
that all over again. People are rediscovering the serenity of a longboard,
sailing before waves without the difficulty of manhandling a Gun.
When I lived in Southern Cal, this was an essential aspect for me. It still
is. I relive the memories, the smell of the ocean, the sound of the waves
gently lapping at my board, the sensation of saltwater trickling down my
back as it crept into my wetsuit, and the overall feeling of peacefulness
at just being there in the ocean, on the waves...
When I return from the Midwest, it won't be for the traffic, or the energy,
the celebrities, clublife, or any of that. I'll be going back to the ocean,
where the largest part of me remains. I hear it calling to me now.
My non-surfer friends think it's a joke. They think of "Surf's
up, DUDE," and "Gnarly!" and "Cowabunga," having
no
comprehension of the purity of simply Be-ing that
Watermen bask in daily. I've put this section
in my page, hoping to share some part of
what surfing and the ocean are for me.
CLICK HERE TO CONTINUE
- Enjoy. Peace.
John Taylor
- 12/1/96