Reviews of books on euchre

by Natty Bumppo, author,

The Columbus Book of Euchre


Published since 1982:

Andrews, The Complete Win at Euchre

Benjamin, Euchre Strategies

Ellis, Euchre: The Grandpa Lou Way

Gallagher, Winning at Euchre

Kelchner, Discover Euchre (videotape)

Martin, Euchre: How to Play and Win

Rigal, Euchre for Dummies

Wergin, Wergin on Euchre


Published prior to 1906:

The Law and Practice of the Game of Euchre “by a Professor” (1862)

Euchre: How to Play It (anonymous, 1886)

Keller, The Game of Euchre (1887)

Berkeley, Écarté and Euchre (1890)

Euchre – and How to Play It (anonymous, 1897)


Catherine Perry Hargrave’s History of Playing Cards and Bibliography (Dover, New York, 1966) lists a number of early books on euchre: John W. Keller, The Game of Euchre (1887, Frederick A. Stokes Co., New York, 82 pages); Cavendish, The Pocket Guide to Euchre (1890, Thomas de la Rue & Co. Ltd., London); “Berkeley,” Écarté and Euchre (1890, George Bell & Sons, London, 79 pp.); Progressive Euchre (1890, author unidentified, Joseph E. Church, Cincinnati), and R. F. Foster, Call Ace Euchre (1905, Brentano’s, New York). Hargrave’s bibliography lists also four books on 500, the deliberately invented “super” euchre game commissioned by the United States Playing Card Company, all published between 1899 and 1909.

We now know, through the sweep of Amazon.com, Abebooks.com and the rest of the internet, that there were a few 19th century books on euchre that Hargrave overlooked, including, at least, The Game of Euchre with Its Laws (1850; author and publisher unknown; we have only seen this book listed in the Oxford English Dictionary and mentioned in the next book); The Law and Practice of the Game of Euchre by “a Professor” (1862, T. B. Peterson & Bros., Philadelphia, 134 pages); Euchre: How to Play It (ca. 1886, author unidentified, Griffith, Farran, Okeden & Welsh, London and Canberra, 124 pp.); A. Howard Cady, Euchre: A Treatise on the Game and Its Origin: With Descriptions of Its Several Varieties etc. (1895, American Sports Pub. Co., 44 pp.), and Euchre – and How to Play It (1897, 1903, author unidentified, United States Playing Card Company, Cincinnati, 34 pp.).

Since the publication of Foster’s book in 1905, there seem to have been no books published specifically on euchre until the first edition of The Columbus Book of Euchre was published in 1982. All those earlier books are out of print and hard to find. Foster was the author also, however, of Foster’s Complete Hoyle, reprinted in 1963 and accessible (1897, 1963, J. B. Lippincott, Philadelphia). It contains a long section on euchre, including a subsection headed “METHODS OF CHEATING.

The publication of The Columbus Book of Euchre in June of 1982 was followed quickly by the publication in August of the same year of Gary Martin’s Euchre: How to Play and Win (1982, Martin, Fort Wayne, 64 pp.). Both Martin’s book and the first edition of The Columbus Book of Euchre were “desktop” publications created before personal computers made “desktop publishing” a household possibility and are, therefore, both a little rough typographically. Since 1990 and the advent of personal computer “desktop publishing,” a number of other books and a videotape on euchre have appeared. And while they are understandably more attractive than Martin’s book and the first edition of The Columbus Book of Euchre, Martin’s and The Columbus Book of Euchre remained the only good books on euchre in print until the appearance of Joe Andrews’ new book. Reviews of Andrews’, Martin’s and other books in print on euchre follow, along with reviews of those out-of-print 19th century books we have managed to find.


Euchre: How to Play and Win, by Gary Martin, Martin, Fort Wayne, 1982, 64 pp., $4.95

This is an instructive and useful little book.
And it’s one of only two books in print on
euchre that get almost everything right (the
other is The Columbus Book of Euchre).
There are no glaring errors.

There are some highly helpful hints on what
to lead, and an interesting suggestion to lead a
nine to save an ace (pp. 25-27. The author
may have a point, but he does not explain it).
There’s an interesting section on bid euchre
(both “partner” and “buck”), with good in-
struction.

There are some annoying grammatical
errors, such as “lead” as the past tense of
“lead” going on for several pages beginning

at page 23 (the author finally gets it right with
“led” at page 32), and some syntactical num-
ber confusion (e.g., at p. 32, “If diamonds is
trump . . . ,” and at p. 38, “In buck euchre
each player plays for himself . . . . Each player
bids on the number of tricks each feels they
can win”).

And because the book was printed before
personal computers made “desktop publish-
ing” a household possibility, it’s not the most
attractive book out there: The only color is on
the cover, and the small type makes it a little
hard to read.

But the content of the book makes it well
worth the price.


The Complete Win at Euchre, by Joseph D. Andrews
Games by Andrews Inc., Melrose, Mass., 2004, 171 pp., $12.95

One of Joe Andrews’ criteria for a “book,”
it seems, is that it must have at least 100 pages.
In correspondence with me in 2001 over the
prospect of collaborating on a euchre book,
he referred to The Columbus Book of Eu-
chre
as a “Booklet”;* and in a list of five oth-
er euchre books in his own new book, The
Complete Win at Euchre,
he takes care to
point out that only Wergin on Euchre has
more than 100 pages.

And, I must admit, The Columbus Book of
Euchre
, listed at 90 pages, does not contain
90 full pages of euchre. Subtracting title pages,

-----------------------------------------------
* Capitalized, yet: “... your Booklet ... my Books ....”

index pages and the like, and solely decorative
illustrations taking up whole pages reduces it to
75. By similar subtractions you can get The
Complete Win at Euchre
’s 171 pages down
to 151, but that’s still more than Wergin’s 137.

So if I want a competitive euchre “book,” it
seems, I have to get those skinny 75 pages up
to 150 or more. Taking a tip from Joe’s
book, I have found some ways:

– Use big type and lots of inner headlines. If I
cut my average 38 lines a page to Joe’s 30,
I’m up to 95 pages already.

– Use lots of repetition. State the rules twice
(once in “The Basics,” once “Official”). In


describing variants of the game, such as
“British Euchre” and nine different ways
people all over North America play bid
euchre, state the complete rules for each
variant in each description instead of merely
the contrasting rules that make each variant
unique. Now I have 113 pages.

– Pad the book with pages having nothing
specifically to do with euchre, such as a
four-page history of the United States
Playing Card Company, a two-page history
of playing cards, and seven pages of “Pro-
files in Courage Euchre” (at a page apiece,
with plenty of white space if there is not a
whole page of nice things to say) about peo-
ple the readers have never heard of who
have not made much of a difference in the
history of euchre (I will grant that three of
Joe’s ten “Profiles in Courage Euchre” might

be warranted). Now I have 126 pages.

– Throw in articles by other writers, slap-
dash (Joe wrote less than three-fourths
of the text of his own book. Some out-
side contributions just barely touch on the
subject matter. The inserts include a two-
page history of jacks, by Daphne Tregear,
and five pages on “Euchre Math” written
by Richard Freedman, which, although
somewhat interesting, is of little practical
use). I’m up to 144 pages now (without
counting the history of the United States
Playing Card Company or anything else
twice) – and I’ve passed Wergin.

– Pad the book further with three full pages of
pictures of the four full suits of cards available
in each euchre hand and accounts of 23
“Classic Hands” the author has observed,


with a one-page illustration of each (that’s 47
more pages). Now I have 184 pages. Re-
store the title and index pages and the dec-
orations and I’m just a page shy of 200.
Hope you like my “book.

Although Joe’s book describes “British Eu-
chre” and nine variants of bid euchre in excru-
ciating detail, there’s not a word on two-han-
ded euchre or euchre solitaire. Let’s face it,
it’s just another thin book on euchre. That
doesn’t mean it’s a bad book. It’s not. Most
of it is correct and helpful. My general criti-
cism is that it’s heavy on example and lean on
principle.

There are too many possible situations to
cover, teaching by example. The “Bidding
Skills – Twenty Questions” in Joe’s book
deal only with whether the dealer should pick

up or turn down in the given scenarios; there
are no specific lessons for the players in first,
second or third chairs, and none for the dealer
on second round. Eight examples are given
in the “Opening Leads” quiz, but no instructive
scenarios for leads to second and subsequent
tricks. And the four “Play of the Hand” sam-
ples given are rather meager. The “Classic
Hands” are but 23 out of thousands.

Joe does do well on his examples, although I
find debatable his conclusions on Nos. 8 and
20 of his “Bidding Skills” questions, on Nos. 1,
3 and 8 of his “Opening Leads” quiz, and on
Nos. 3 and 4 of his “Play of the Hand” ex-
amples (try them yourself). I did not review all
the “Classic Hands” – they are presented as
much as profiles in courage excitement as right
or wrong – but I noticed that Joe overlooked a
good potential opening lead on the first one.


I said most of the book is correct. Some
things aren’t. For example:

– Joe speaks of euchre played in the 18th cen-
tury. There is no evidence that euchre was
played before the 19th century. (Écarté and
Jucker, each believed by various scholars to
be the root of euchre, also date only to the
early 19th century.)

– Joe says that as dealer’s partner you should
order anytime you have two strong trump
. . . ” (p. 51; my emphasis). I don’t think so.
Good way to queer your partner’s loner.
Trust him, if you have nothing else or have
an answer to other suits. Why do you sup-
pose the Canadians have that silly rule requi-
ring the partner to go alone if he assists?

– Joe says, categorically, to “never call a loner

when the score is 8-8” (p. 59; his emphasis).
If the hand in his “Bidding Skills” question
No. 17, where he first suggests that, had
lower trump or one fewer trump, it would be
a perfect example of when you should go
alone with eight points, to keep your partner
from taking the lead on first trick and being
unable to lead trump back to you.

– Incredibly, he says that if you have 6 or 7
points to your opponents’ 9, “a loner . . . is
a virtual forced call, especially if you hold
junk!’ (emphasis his).

– There’s a questionable use of the word
“sandbagging.

– And Joe’s book contains constant reference
to “auction” and “bidding” to make trump.
Aside from the power of jacks, perhaps the


most distinctive thing about euchre – as op-
posed to other trick-taking games such as
bridge and spades – is that in euchre you do
not make trump by bidding. You order,
assist, pick up or name trump in euchre (as
in the extinct games écarté and triumph).
The only bidding that goes on in euchre –
i.e., claiming in advance the number of tricks
you will take – is in the many versions of bid
euchre, which, all taken together, do not
claim nearly as large a following as the stan-
dard game.

I would like to attribute a few things in Joe’s
book to Natty Bumppo, since Joe didn’t bother:

1. The etymology of the word “joker,” on
page 7, is taken from a hypothesis in David
Parlett’s Oxford Guide to Card Games
extended in The Columbus Book of Eu-

chre, without attribution to either (but
with “Jucker” misspelled).

2. And Joe’s special thanks to Harvey Lapp
for his “Ten Commandments of Euchre”
(pp. 43-48) overlooks Lapp’s own ac-
knowledgment, on his Commandments
page, of Natty Bumppo for his special
contributions and editing.

3. Joe heaps acknowledgment on John Mc-
Leod, proprietor of the Card Games web
site, but does not mention McLeod’s
gracious acknowledgment of Natty
Bumppo and The Columbus Book of
Euchre
(“the definitive guide to American
euchre,” McLeod calls it) on the Card
Games euchre page; and Joe ignores his
own previous credit to me, in which he
says, “ . . . [S]ome very fine books have


been written about [euchre] strategy and
psychology. You may want to try The
Columbus Book of Euchre
by Natty
Bumppo. It is very down to earth and
chock full of information!”

You will find the most amazing revelation
in Joe’s book at page 99, in a “Profile in
Courage Euchre” of “Newt’s”: “In Septem-
ber of 2003, the first store in the United
States to offer playing cards and related
merchandise held its grand opening. What
tricks the memory plays on us! I had thought
that I had been buying playing cards and po-
ker chips at drug stores and dime stores since
the 1940’s.

Joe does take care of his patrons and clients.
We have not only Newt’s, and the history of

the United States Playing Card Company,
and the oozing glorification of Beth (“Tweet-
ie Heart”) Cole and her Euchre Club on line,
but also the promotion of MSN and three
other on-line euchre playing sites – over
Pogo and Yahoo!, which get only one line
apiece, and without mention of Playsite, one
of the most venerable venues for playing eu-
chre on line. Yahoo! and Pogo are far and
away the most popular sites for playing eu-
chre on line: None of the sites exalted by
Joe comes close to Pogo, and Pogo does
not come close to Yahoo! (and there are
reasons).

One more thing: Let’s just pretend we
never heard of “progressive” tournament
scoring: That’s not euchre.
top


Winning at Euchre, by Thomas A. Gallagher, 1991 (publisher & city not disclosed), 60 pp., $3.95

Gallagher’s booklet has a Gorenesque point
system for evaluating a euchre hand. And
while that is its salient feature, its best feature
(aside from the misuse of the words “bid” and
“bidder”; see review of Joe Andrews’ book,
above) is the second little paragraph in the In-
troduction: “Euchre is a bidder’s game. You
must bid at every opportunity. . . . Just to sit
back and pass or hope to euchre your oppo-
nents is a loser’s game. . . .

Another section, the three “Most Common
Errors by Euchre Players,” is right on: Passing
a makeable hand, failing to lead trump on of-
fense, leading trump on defense. (Trumping a

partner’s ace is left out, but it is enjoined – in
bold type – on the previous page.)

The point system assigns four points to a
right bower, three to a left, two to each other
trump card, and one to each ace in the off
suits, for a total of 20 “high card” points. Then
the author concludes, and attempts to demon-
strate, that you need 10 points to go alone,
and that you should order or pick up with 7
points (but need only 5 to “assist” – and that’s
a flaw, since it encourages a dealer’s partner,
who normally should keep his mouth shut).

But the math is a little fuzzy. For example,


the author states that if you have 8 points, your
opponents have 6, your partner has 3, and the
pack has 3. The actual probability is, the op-
ponents
have 6.7, the partner has 3.3, and
the pack (i.e., the three cards remaining “bur-
ied,” or unseen) has only 2. On average each
hand is 167 per cent as strong as the pack.

The author says, at page 3, that a 10-point
hand “cannot be euchred. Accompanying the
discussion of the point system is a one-page
chart of “biddable” hands from 7 to 13 points.
The chart lists four possible “10-point” hold-
ings, all of which can be euchred, but omits
two – (1) a left with three other trump and an
outside ace, which also can be euchred (by
Right-Ace-x of trumps held by an opponent),

and (2) a holding of five trumps without bow-
ers, which is the only “10-point” hand that
cannot be euchred. The error lies in ranking a
9, 10 or queen of trumps as high as an ace or
king.

And the author’s assertion that you must
have at least 10 “high card points” to go alone
seems rather timid from one who says you
must bid to win. Natty Bumppo’s Columbus
Book of Euchre
, at pp. 42-43, lists four “8-
point” holdings that are excellent candidates
for loners, and even a hand of 2 or 3 points
that will do the trick on a long shot. And Gary
Martin, at p. 20 of his Euchre: How to Play
and Win
, shows a “7-point” hand he recom-
mends going alone on.


None of which is to say the point system is
shoddy – by and large, it works. But it is
flawed. For further examples:

(1) It fails to distinguish between the value
of a “next” ace and one of the other color. An
ace off color is much more valuable.

(2) It fails to evaluate distribution. The
Goren point system in bridge gives a void the
second highest value, comparable to that of the
left bower in Gallagher’s euchre system. Also
in euchre a singleton ace is worth more than a
doubleton ace; an ace heading a three-card
suit is virtually worthless, and a two-suited
hand has a value not addressed by Gallagher.

(3) It gives no value to kings. While a king
often has no value in euchre, it has tremen-
dous
value in a two-suited hand or if its ace is
buried or in partner’s hand.

Another problem with playing by the num-
bers is that each euchre hand is situational
it’s not only the cards that matter, but also the
position (where you sit at the table, which is
so much more important in a short game like
euchre than in a long game like bridge or
spades), and the score (many things you will
do at 6 or 7, or at 8 or 9, or when your oppo-
nents are at 6 or 7 or at 8 or 9, you will not
do at other scores). You play by Gallagher,
I play by instinct, and I’ll beat you.


Finally, would it be picayune to point out
that the author has the horse on the rider (p.
45)? That he thinks “next” is “Nix”? That he
lacks true bravado, or humor, as on page 39,
where he writes, “Dealing out of turn . . . is
considered poor sportsmanship if . . . done
intentionally”? Not in Columbus, where

stealing the deal is part of the game!

I had heard about this book; I wanted to
like this book. It’s OK; it’s interesting. But
it is too formulaic: It does not capture the in-
tuition
, the essence, of euchre.

top


Euchre: The Grandpa Lou Way, by John Ellis
Wednesday Morning Productions, Kleinburg, Ontario, 1996, 76 pp., $8.95

This book might be more appropriately ti-
tled Euchre for Dummies, or, even, Cards
for Dummies
, so basic and simplistic it is.
And thin: Of 76 pages, 18 are blank, title or
dedication pages; 4 are full-page illustrations,
and 9 more are nearly full-page illustrations –
all for $8.95. Of the 45 pages remaining, four
are devoted to Old Maid instructions on card
playing: Which is the higher card, a 9 or a
10? a king or an ace? What is a trick? What
is “trump”? What does it mean to “lead”? to
“follow suit”?

It may have been written by a Dummy, so

weak is the grammar. The author seems to
have particular difficulty with syntactical num-
ber – for example, on page 49 alone: “Before
either one of them pick up or order . . . , they
. . . ”; “Unless they are a novice . . . ,” and
“Learn how to assess another player’s bench
strength so that you can compare your own to
theirs. When someone else makes trump, you
may have some clues about their strength”
(emphasis added).

Inconsistency in use of terms also is dis-
tracting: On page 12, the word “round” is
used as a synonym for a “hand” of five tricks.


Then, on page 14, “hand” means “trick.
Then, in the glossary, you are instructed,
“A round and a trick get used interchange-
ably sometimes” (emphasis added). And this
glossary entry instructs you further, “Don’t
let this get confusing”! The glossary entry
adds, “The whole game is over when one
team has won . . . 10 points. You can call
all of the games leading up to that, ‘games’
as well
” (emphasis added). To add to the
(interdicted) confusion over “round,” the
author terms the trump making process “go-
ing around the table.

“Double suited,” according to this book,
does not mean having only two suits in your
hand, but having two cards in one suit.

Then, there is spelling – for renege, “re-
neig”; for bower, “Bauer” (granted, “Bauer
is the German word from which the euchre
word “bower” derives. But, Germans don’t
play euchre – hence, “bower”).

Not that the instruction on euchre is all that
clear: An essay on an advantage in being
“double-suited” (i.e., having two cards in a
suit, remember) indicates not that you should
throw one card from an Ace-high off suit to
signal partner, but that you should always
throw off a singletoneven if you have no
trump
(which would, worse than failing to sig-
nal partner correctly, give him a false signal).

And we are told that if a player on the team


that made trump reneges, his team “forfeits
the game. Just what does that mean (given
the glossary’s confusion over what “game”
means)?

Then, there is this funny rule that the second
hand cannot order without going alone (maybe
they really play this way in Canada).

For all that, this book is very attractive typo-
graphically – an obvious product of desktop
masturbation (yes, I can see the blurb coming:
“‘Typographically very attractive’ – Natty
Bumppo, author, The Columbus Book of
Euchre
”).

top


Euchre According to Wergin, by Joseph Petrus Wergin
Huron Press, Madison, Wis., 1990, 137 pp., $9.95

Euchre According to Wergin contains
good basic instruction, and, unlike most
books of Hoyle, recognizes the way most
people play the game. But it is short on wit
and intellect, and it makes a number of errors
and omissions.

The author’s apparent certainty as to the
origins of euchre (“invented in America,” p.
vii) and the term “euchre” (pp. 1-2) is not
shared by scholars. See, e.g., Catherine Per-
ry Hargrave, R. F. Foster, Charles Goren and
the Oxford English Dictionary.

Nor is the author’s passion for “honesty“

(pp. 6-7, 74-75, and 123) shared by vast
numbers of euchre players. Overreaching
and deception such as “stealing the deal” are
as much a part of the game in many circles as
going alone. It’s a dog-eat-dog world out
there in the heartland, and the game goes to
the alert as well as the swift.

In some passages the author contradicts
himself. For example:

– At the top of page 25 he defines “the bridge”
as the dealing team’s being at 6 or 7 points and
the opposing team’s being at 8 or 9. In the
very next paragraph he defines it as a maneu-


ver by the dealer’s opponents to protect
their position. (Actually, the correct term
for the maneuver is “ordering at the bridge.
And “the bridge” is simply a score of 9 points.
If the player to the dealer’s left is “at the
bridge,” he must order the dealer when the
dealer’s team has 6 or 7 points to protect his
own team’s position. That’s “ordering at the
bridge” – similar to the “Columbus coup” in
Hoosier play.)

– At page 28, the author says, “If you take the
first trick in a suit and your partner discards,
do not lead back the suit he has shown . . . .
Later on the very same page he says, “Ob-
serve your partner’s discards . . . . In many
cases, that may be your best next lead . . . .

– And at page 51, “If partner named the trump
and you [at third hand] have a high and a low
trump, chances are that the fourth player may
not have a trump. If a high card is not played,
you may be embarrassed when the fourth hand
overtakes the play of a low trump. (Anyway,
the reasons to play high exist despite the un-
likelihood the dealer holds trump, not because
of it.)

In other passages, the author is simply
wrong:

– At page 31: “With a score of 9 to 8 in the
dealer’s favor, it is best for the dealer to at-
tempt a hand a shade lighter than normal.
The opposite is true: Better to let the oppo-


nents score a point than to go out euchred. It
is when the score is 9 to 8 against the dealer
that the risk is worthwhile, as the author points
out elsewhere.

– At page 47, the author states that a dealer’s
turning down a right bower indicates a 62˝
per cent probability that the left is in the third
hand and a 37˝ per cent probability that it
is in the deck. Actually, the probabilities are
38˝ per cent (5/13) in the second hand, 38˝
per cent (5/13) in the third, and 23 per cent
(3/13) in the deck. The probabilities are in the
eldest hand’s favor not because of a 62˝ per
cent probability his partner holds the left, but
because of a 61˝ per cent probability that the
dealer’s partner does not (third hand’s plus

deck’s probabilities. Given the second hand’s
failure to “assist,” the likely probability of the
third hand’s holding the left is, it is true, some-
what higher than 38˝ per cent; but it is not
mathematically determinable, and certainly
nowhere near 62˝ per cent).

– At page 49, the author suggests that trump-
ing a partner’s ace is “often” OK. While it is
occasionally OK (as it is in bridge and
spades, not just in euchre), this is very bad
advice to a beginner; and beginners may be
the major market for a book of instruction.
Trumping a partner’s ace is one of the two
errors most common to beginners (the other
is reneging with the left bower). The best
advice to beginners is, “Never trump your


partner’s ace,” the very phrase criticized by
the author. Later, when they know the game,
novices can learn the rare occasions to trump
a partner’s ace.

– At page 83, the author suggests that players
might wish to play to only 7 points, using 4’s
and 3’s for markers “as the euchre players did
back in the 18th century. Maybe the 19th
and early 20th centuries (most Hoyle referen-
ces set the game at 5 points, not 7 or 10), but
not the 18th. There is no evidence of the
game earlier than the 19th century.

Further, the author’s legendary super player
“Freddie Fox” would not draw applause from
real euchre players on three of the six hands

illustrated at pp. 54-62: Hands Nos. 2 and 3
are but examples of simply correct play. And
the “foxy” play in “Hand No. 6” appears so
only because “Mr. Fox” made the wrong dis-
card when picking up.

The author’s chapter on “Euchre Odds and
Percentages,” seemingly arcane, is but basic
probability theory taught in freshman math.
Although it’s interesting, anyone needing the
chart will get lost in the shuffle.

Many of the author’s suggested “Official
Rules” are likewise superfluous, for example:

– III-1-a, “Riffle the pack at least three times
and follow with several over and under shuf-


fles. Be careful not to expose the bottom
card,” is basic Hoyle, not just euchre, and is
more a matter of etiquette and good sense
than rules.

– Likewise, III-2, “Pone’s Right to Shuffle”;
IV-1, “Number of Cards to be Cut,” and IV-
3, “Cut Before Dealing,” are rules of Hoyle,
not just euchre.

– Point penalties suggested in IV-3 b and c
for refusing to offer the cut and refusing to cut
are ludicrous. Has the author not heard of the
“Columbus cut”?

– VI-6, requiring the dealer to answer truth-

fully an inquiry as to trump, and forbidding a
player’s asking what specific card was picked
up, not only is ridiculous, but toys with the First
Amendment. A better rule (of personal beha-
vior, not of the game) is, “Pay attention, and
beware of the liar!”

In sum, the proposed rules are too arcane,
too silly, and too many.

Omissions: Not included in Wergin (but
included in Natty Bumppo’s Columbus Book
of Euchre
) are rules and suggestions for eu-
chre solitaire, two-handed euchre with “wid-
ows” or “blinds” for third and fourth hands,
and three-handed buck (bid) euchre. top


Euchre Strategies, by Fred Benjamin
(publisher & city not disclosed), 2007, 90 pp., $15.07

Fred Benjamin tells us in the very first section of
his book Euchre Strategies that he wins two out
of three games, on average, on Yahoo! Any euchre
player who tells you he wins two-thirds of his games
is (a) lying, or (b) cheating, or (c) selecting his com-
petition very carefully.

I am acquainted with the author through e-mail
and other interaction on line, and I have no partic-
ular reason to suspect him of lying or cheating. He
gives us answer (c): " . . . I win so often in part
because of my partner, . . . with whom I play ap-
proximately 30 per cent of my games. Our play-
ing pattern is simple: Create a table and play with
whomever sits with us." 1

If you have an established partner, and play most
of your games against players who are not regular
partners, and if you know what you’re doing, and

play generally inferior competition, you prob-
ably can win two-thirds of your games The
inferior competition, in this case, is indicated
by the Yahoo! ratings the author discloses for
five of six of his own “nics” – 1740, 1587, 1545,
1753, 2467 and 1710. Except for the 2467, the
ratings are mediocre, by Yahoo! standards, and
indicate avoidance of “advanced” competition. 2

I would not mention such statistical puffing,
which might seem otherwise irrelevant, except
for one thing: This book is based largely on
statistics and mathematical analysis, with the help
of a computer simulator the author has devised
for the purpose (useable also as an independent
computer game or practice table, and available
on line). So, consider the source; and remember
what Mark Twain (an avid euchre player) said:
“There are three kinds of lies: Lies, damned lies,


and statistics.3

When this book was published, a person who has
played the author on line quite a bit exclaimed to me,
“How can he write a book on euchre? He can’t even
play euchre." That does not bother me. Leo Duro-
cher, Casey Stengel and Sparky Anderson all were
better baseball managers than players. What bothers
me is that the author of this book cannot write. How
do you follow someone

* who uses redundancies like “initial opening lead,”
“first lead on next trick,” and “opening lead 2nd
thru 4th tricks”?

* who uses malaprops like “hole card” for the card
turned up, and “kitty” for the stock or talon?

* who misspells “led” throughout the book? 4

* who needs eight lines of type to define “high card”?

The language distracts. If you can figure out
what a “finesse” is from the author’s wordy and
convoluted definition and explanation, you under-
stood the concept a lot better to begin with than
he does now.

Look at “kitbitz” [sic] and “kitty” in the defini-
tions section. “Kitbitz” may be a typographical
error instead of a misspelling of “kibitz,” since it
appears out of alphabetical order, where “kibitz”
would be; but it’s wrongly defined in any event.5
“Kitty” is defined as the three unseen cards re-
maining in the deck after the deal – “also called
the talon,” the book says. “Talon” is correct (or
you can say “stock,” or “deck,” or “pack”) – but
not “kitty. A “kitty,” in games, is something of
value (money, usually; cf. poker). It’s the oppo-


site of a talon6 – just as “hole card” is the oppo-
site of a turned card: “Hole card,” a term unique
to poker, indicates a card hidden from the view
of other players.

Section 9.15 consists entirely of a table pur-
porting to identify “% Probability of opponents
has ‘x’ trump. I couldn’t get past the syntax:
One opponent’s probability? (“has”) Or both’s?
(“opponents”) (And, what’s the “of ” for, follow-
ed by a verb?) In either event I found suspicious
cells in the table. Just to be sure, I ran it by a ma-
thematician. The table is botched. Not that any-
one needs such a table to begin with: If you don’t
have the answer intuitively, you need to play more.

More confusion is created by diagrams that place
the deal with East in a north-south-east-west layout.
There’s no law against giving East the deal (and East

will eventually get to deal in every card game, of
course). But conventionally, in diagrams, South
has the deal and West has the lead. We might be
able to adjust to the author’s giving the deal to East
instead of South, but then he gives us a diagram with
North as the dealer (the book puts you at South, as
you would be in a computer game, and rotates the
deal).

Then there are the “Duh!” factors: The first
of seven listed occasions on which to lead trump
on defense is, “You only have trump.(Duh!) The
first of six listed ways to identify a void in another
player’s hand is, “If a player does not follow suit.
(Duh!)

There is no history, no humor. The only form
of euchre presented or discussed in the book is the
standard American four-player partnership game


– no two-person, three-person, or bid euchre. The
section on rules is equally spare – there is no mention
of irregularities, such as dealing out of turn, playing
out of turn, or reneging. 7

The book contains good advice, by and large; but
the presentation is textbookish. “Confused yet?” the
author asks in section 8.1 (of 103 numbered sections
and subsections), on page 60 (of 90). “You should
be,” he answers. Q.E.D. 8 The 17-page section 3,
“Opening Bid,” reminds me of Thomas Gallagher’s
point system in Winning at Euchre. If you need
to remember Benjamin’s percentages (not all of them
documented) or Gallagher’s “points,” you’ll be hand-
cuffed trying to play.

Benjamin gives generally good mathematical expla-
nations of how and why certain ploys and maneuvers
work, but his instruction is for the cognoscenti: It’s

not much help to a beginner or an intermediate play-
er. There are easier ways to learn: Play cards, for
instance. Euchre should be fun; and reading about it
should be, too. This book may be the best endorse-
ment yet of Euchre: The Grandpa Lou Way.

And the mathematical analysis is not quite as relia-
ble as it might appear. The botched opponent(’s)(’)(?)
trump probability table was noted above. For another
example, in section 3.6 the author attempts to demon-
strate statistically that “ordering at the bridge” is not
such a good idea. In his test of a “good” hand without
a stopper, he compares the results of 25 simulations of
“donation” against the results of 25 other simulations
of passing. That’s not only not enough simulations for
conclusive results; it’s also simply bad science not to
use the same deals to examine both ways of playing,
with such small samples. He uses the same flawed
dichotomy in a test of a “bad” hand that does not take


into account at all the devastating effect of giving up a
loner to the opposition at a score ahead 9 to 7 with the
deal coming your way.

For another example: The chart of probabilities of
who will win and who will lose, at certain scores (in
section 8.1), is presented with a stated assumption of
“players . . . equally matched and skilled. Actually,
it assumes that each player is Fred Benjamin. He’s
the one that gave each player its values. This fact
colors the results of all simulations cited in the entire
book.

And even the assumption that each player is Fred
Benjamin may be overly optimistic. Each player is,
after all, a robot; and others and I have found play by
Benjamin’s robots that reminds us of the tinheads on
Yahoo! and Pogo. Can you imagine basing conclu-
sions of good play on simulations of hands played by

a table full of bots from Yahoo! ?

I do think that Benjamin has built a better bot,
and that Yahoo! and Pogo (and the other internet
game sites) should beat a path to his door to seek
to license it from him. But it’s not yet a good e-
nough bot to play with the boys, and the simula-
tions you get from Benjamin’s all-bot tables are
not reliable. 9

Some good advice from the book:

* Playing aggressively is required, but playing
recklessly is taking aggression too far. s. 3.2

* Order and call aggressively when you have a
lead of five points or more, to limit your
opponents’ opportunities to call and make
loners that would get them back in the game.


s. 8.4. (The author calls this tactic “soft dona-
tion. That’s a term I had not encountered be-
fore, and it’s interesting.)

* Lead the king of hearts from jack-10 of clubs,
jack of spades and ace of diamonds when your
left-hand opponent has ordered the 10 of hearts
into his partner’s hand. s. 5.9 Most players would
lead the ace of diamonds or the jack of spades;
and I would have led the ace of diamonds until I
ran simulations (in the Euchre Laboratory, not on
Benjamin’s simulator) supporting the trump lead
on defense here, indicating that a spade lead might
be second best, and suggesting that the diamond
lead might be the worst (the author did not cite
any simulations).

Some not so good:

* Lead away from a guarded left bower when the

dealer’s partner has ordered up. s. 5.5(2,3)
That might produce an occasional euchre, but it
could deprive you of a stopper. In general the
book and the simulator lean too heavily on lead-
ing trump on defense. The book advises you in
section 5.5(1) to lead trump through the maker
(i.e., dealer’s partner) if you hold right-ace. That
would deprive you of an end play. And the author
contradicts himself on this point: In section 5.6.2
he says, “Do not lead a trump . . . when attempt-
ing a euchre.10

* Always open a defense against a loner with an ace
even if you have only one. s. 5.8 This defies an
almost universally accepted prohibition: Do not
lead an ace against a loner if you have only one;
do lead an ace if you have two. The author claims
to have run simulations to prove his point, and ar-
gues that the ace lead is necessary to keep from
getting squeezed on a doubleton. What he has


failed to recognize is the corollary that you may
treat a king-high doubleton as a second “ace” in
your hand. (The reason not to lead ace if you
have only one is to avoid squeezing your partner
if he has two. You lead an ace if you have two
to avoid getting squeezed yourself.)

This book is unlike any other book on euchre.
Although a bit disorganized (you find “what to lead”
all over the place), it is a tour de force, full of pie

charts and based on what must have been tons of
computer research. It’s a noble effort to quantify
conventional (and some unconventional) wisdom.

But some things cannot be quantified. The author
promises, in section 3.2, to quantify the difference
between aggressive and reckless but admits, in the
analysis of one hand posited for an example, “This
is difficult to estimate. He winds up advising the
reader, “You must use your own experience.



General footnote: Section numbers given above refer to a 90-page printing with the title “Euchre Strategies” on the cover. Some readers may have an earlier, 55-page printing, in smaller type, with the title “Euchre Challenge & Teacher” on the cover. There was a relocation of the original section 3 to section 8 between the printings, and thus a number of the section references above will not relate to the earlier printing (in most if not all cases, the reader can add 1.0 to section numbers that do not work except for those beginning with “8,” which must be read “3. . . .

1 Another part of the pattern, not reported by the author but reported to me by one who knows him on line, is that he and his partner do not play again with anyone who beats them. So, “play with whomever sits with us” may be a bit of a stretch, too. (The author meant “whoever sits with us,” of course, not “whomever. The case of a relative pronoun is dictated by its use in a subordinate clause, if any. The clause, not the pronoun, is the object of the preposition. Lest this observation seem petty, note additional observations of unclear writing following.) [back]

2 The author has confided to a mutual acquaintance that he plays mostly, if not exclusively, in the intermediate lounges. But he is skating on thin ice. In a post to the Euchre Science discussion group on Yahoo! a few weeks after publication of his book, he said 75 per cent of Yahoo! players with 65 per cent or better winning records are cheaters. Five of his own “nic” records published in his book show winning percentages ranging from 65.9 to 76 per cent (it’s the 2467 nic with the 65.9%). [back]

3 Twain attributed this remark to Benjamin Disraeli – but a number of scholars believe Twain was lying about that. No one has found any other source for attributing the remark to Disraeli. [back]

4 The past tense of “lead” (“lead” pronounced “led” is a heavy metal). [back]

5 . . . [T]he ability of a person to view more than one hand during the play . . . . This definition suggests that even a player can kibitz. A kibitzer (it’s a Yiddish word) is a spectator who offers unsolicited advice. And he or she may be allowed to watch only one hand. (We can probably lay some of the blame here on Yahoo!, which also seems not to know what the word means; but even Yahoo! recognizes that kibitzers can see only hands that allow being seen.) [back]

6 Cards left over that can be claimed or are otherwise of use are usually called a “dummy” or a “widow,” not a “kitty. But there is not even a dummy or widow in partnership euchre. [back]

7 And the rules section has the deal passing to the right instead of to the left. Thank God for “print on demand”: This can probably be corrected soon, and at not too great a cost. [back]

8 Maybe that’s why the author moved section 3 of the book to section 8 in the second printing – so that these remarks would appear two-thirds of the way through the book, instead of on page 12. [back]

9 Here’s what a mathematician had to say (my brother, who has a Ph.D. in mathematics and works in mathematics):

“Don’t trust anyone who uses simulation to get answers. Simulation is very tricky business. You’re trying to get answers by generating random numbers. It takes not only thousands of repetitions but also keen statistical insight to reduce the margin of error to a manageable amount. (Everyone thinks he can simulate things these days, even engineers.)

“It seems that he produced the table of probabilities of trump holdings in opponents’ hands via simulation and accepted the answers without question. All those numbers could have been computed in closed form using elementary probability theory. Even when you have to get numbers by simulation, you still have to do a mathematical estimation to check them with.

“It appears also that the author hasn’t published any confidence intervals on his simulation data. Any biologist would be able to give you confidence intervals on his rat lab data, but amateurs at simulation don’t seem to see that this is required in simulation as well. Most people think you just run the simulation a few hundred times and then average the results. But to get confidence intervals, so you can have some idea if your data is nonsense or not, you have to collect the runs in batches, collecting variance data from each batch. It’s a sophisticated statistical process.

“Simulation is for mathematically intractable problems to analyze the actual play of the game, as opposed to the deal (which is almost always mathematically tractable). In the play of the game, each play is statistically dependent on the previous play or plays. The number of possibilities grows exponentially with each play, so it becomes unsolvable in closed form. Simulation is then the only recourse. But simulation design then becomes of the utmost importance and is only as good as your robots.

“Exponential error might not be an insurmountable problem on the outcome of the play of a single hand in a game as simple as euchre; but in trying to simulate the probability of winning the game at a given score, with many hands yet to play, he’s being way too ambitious. [back]

10 To be fair, the author presents that as a “KISS rule” (“Keep it simple, stupid”), which may be meant for novices only – but, like so many other things in the book, that is not entirely clear. [back] top



Euchre for Dummies, by Barry Rigal
Wiley Publishing Inc., Hoboken, N.J., 2004, 22 pp., $5.95

This book is thinner than it is dumm. It actually contains some good advice. It just doesn’t cover the subject. The content – 18 pages of text (20 on the “Kellerian” scale) – is not a whole lot more than you get on euchre in a standard “Hoyle” encyclopedia.

You do get a deck of cards in the deal – and that’s a mixed blessing. Printed on the face of each card are instructions on what to do with it. For example, on a jack:

Trump suit = RIGHT bower:
Lead to draw out other trumps.

Trump color = LEFT bower:
Save until right bower is played.

Non-Trump: Not much help.

That’s good advice as far as it goes, but all experienced euchre players know that there are times to lead the left – like, when your partner has made trump, or you know the right is buried (turned down).

The instructions printed on the aces, tens and nines are OK (“Don’t get your hopes up,” to paraphrase); but there’s a lot to quibble with on the kings and queens:

Trump: Use to trump another player’s trick.
Use to protect higher trumps.
Don’t lead until higher trumps are gone.

Non-Trump: Lead if A[ce] . . . is gone.
Use to protect A[ce] . . . . [on the king!]
Not much help [on the queen].

But what does it mean – to a novice or “dummy” – to “protect”?

And the hell “don’t lead,” if your partner has made trump.

The subtitle of Euchre for Dummies is “A Card Game for the Rest of Us!” What does that tell us?

The author is the co-author (with Omar Sharif) of Card


Games for Dummies. Why does he refer to the card values of the “8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3 and 2”?

Why does he tell us we are playing with a 32-card deck, when the deck included with the purchase includes only 24 plus sixes and fours of hearts and clubs for markers (that makes only 28 even if you count the markers – which, we would like to point out, are of the wrong suits; see “the Professor’s” explanation).

Why does he instruct us to place the talon and the turned card in the middle of the table, when even dummies know to place it to their left, as in all card games in which the deal rotates, to signify whose deal it is next?

Why does he say the jack of trump is “often” referred to as the “right bower” (and the jack of the same color, other suit, “often” called the “left bower”)? Has he never played euchre?

And what are these constant references to “ bidding” ? You don’t bid in euchre! You order, assist, pick up, turn down, pass, or call!

Then there are the actual mistakes. Let’s put it this way: If this book is the only instruction you will ever receive on euchre, you will play like a dummy.

top


The Law and Practice of the Game of Euchre, “by a Professor”
T. B. Peterson & Brothers, Philadelphia, 1862, 134 pp., out of print

If I had known how many good books had been written on euchre in the late 19th century, and if they had still been in print, I might never have written The Columbus Book of Euchre – there would have been no great need of it.

I have recently, with the help of a collector of antique books, been privileged to see three of these old euchre books; and they all contain excellent instruction, even for today’s game. The only significant differences between the game today and the game as it was are that they played to only five points in the old days, with a pack of 32 cards (as “Hoyle” manuals specify even to this day). But the principles of good play are not significantly different.

There were some options in the old days that we no longer recognize – such as “lapping” (carrying excess points from one game to the next), “jambone” (a super loner laid face up on the table, allowing an opponent to call the play, and scoring eight points, not four, on a march), and “jamboree” (a perfect two-bower ace-king-queen of trump

hand, worth 16 points) – but even then those options were rarely played.

More striking are the parallels and the similarities. Calling “next” in first chair was recommended even then (that was called “Dutching” in the 19th century, but the term “next” also was in vogue), as were “ordering at the bridge,” “donation” (but not so called), “crossing” (calling a suit of the color opposite of that turned down, in second chair), “sucking in” (but not so called – that is, “bagging” a good hand at the deal to induce your left hand opponent to call “next”), promoting a face card with a lower lead from the same suit, playing second hand low and third hand high, leading trump on offense but not on defense, and defending alone (for a four-point euchre). Some of the early writers even recommended – as I do – calling “next” in first chair with none of it in your hand on occasion. This is a ploy only recently named the “full Eddy” (after Edmond Hoyle).

Equally striking, in the ancient literature, is the omission of


some of the colloquial rules we see today – like that dumb Michigan rule requiring a player to have a trump before he makes it, that not-so-dumb Canadian rule requiring the dealer’s partner to go alone if he orders up, and that silly and unsophisticated option called “stick the dealer. There is no ancient history of such.

The earliest euchre book I have had the privilege of reading is The Law and Practice of the Game of Euchre, which says, on the title page, that it is “by a Professor. The title on the cover is Euchre and Its Laws. There is a later edition (1877), with ten additional pages, titled The Laws [sic; plural, now] and Practice of the Game of Euchre to Which is Added the Rules for Playing Draw Poker.

The “Professor,” we are almost sure, was one Charles Henry Wharton Meehan, head of the law library of the Library of Congresss and son of the Librarian of Congress, John Silva Meehan, who was an appointee and devotee of Andrew Jackson.

Charles Meehan died in 1872, five years before publication of the second edition of the “Professor’s” book. We are guessing that his publisher or family or executor merely carried on.

As well they should have. The Professor’s writing was superb. Here are some samples:

“In playing the game on the Mississippi River, if the player who plays alone is euchred, the steamer is stopped at the first landing and the unlucky player is put ashore. In the State of Arkansas he is carried out to be hung to the first adjacent tree, without benefit of clergy.

“So if your hand . . . should happen to be as red as the saints’ days in a Romish calendar, or as black as the concentrated essence of midnight, when the opposite colors are trumps, pursue the even tenor of your play, with placid demeanor – with columbine innocence and serpentine wisdom – and publish it not with impatient demonstrations,


or vituperative expressions against ill luck. That is, don’t complain about your cards.

“It may hap, once in while, that you will find yourself associated with a partner who is a novice in the philosophy and mysteries of our noble game; and when you begin to perceive that he is one of those unfortunate individuals of neglected erudition, whose intense ignorance of the play is disheartening – displaying the most marvelous ingenuity in preventing you from winning, and a cruelly tantalizing facility in helping your opponents to defeat you – smile, if you can. We always do. Illuc Ionicus. That is, don’t complain about your partner, either!

The “Professor” was fond of quoting from Latin and French, and Shakespeare and Pope; and that might throw off a number of today’s readers.

And I take it back: The Columbus Book of Euchre did need to be written – but not for avoidance of Latin, or

French, or Shakespeare or Pope. It needed to be written because it was the first book ever written on euchre, including numerous manuals of “Hoyle,” that recognized that real people play euchre to ten points with a deck of 24 cards.

That is not to disparage the “Professor” one whit: He wrote of the game as it was played in his time, and he did it well.

The “Professor’s” research satisfied him that the French had virtually nothing to do with the origin of euchre, and that it was a German game (although he was puzzled about the origin of the word “euchre” – which was not adequately explained until 1990 and the publication of David Parlett’s Oxford Guide to Card Games, in which euchre was traced to the early 19th century game of Jucker in the Germanic region of Alsace). Some of the later euchre writers of the 19th century, including John Keller and the anonymous author of Euchre: How to Play It, were


seduced by notions of French origins; but recent research has shown them to have been mistaken, and the “Professor” to have been right.

Incidentally, the “Professor” explained why diamonds and spades, not hearts and clubs, are the suits traditionally selected for “markers” (deuces and trays, in the old days, for a five-point game – and the “Professor” called them “counters”, not “markers”): “Because the pips of those two suits, being more sharp, are easily discerned.

It is interesting to note also that none of the 19th century writers of euchre texts ever referred to Hoyle, except in speaking of whist. Hoyle never played euchre.

An earlier book – Hoyle’s Games, published in Philadelphia in 1845 by Henry F. Anners (the author was unidentified, unless it was the same as the publisher) – contained four pages on euchre, which was identified as “a German game. The game described was very much like the game we know today but for the usual archaisms, such as playing to five points, with 32 cards.

Dealing in twos and threes was the way even way back then, and “ordering at the bridge” was one of the ploys described. Going alone was called “cards away,” as it was alternately in the “Professor’s” and other books of the 19th century; but the principle was the same as now. top


Euchre: How to Play It (anonymous)
Griffith, Farran, Okeden & Welsh; London and Canberra, ca. 1886, 124 pp.,
“Price One Shilling” (but now out of print; it cost me 38 pounds in 2006)

Not only is the author of this book not identified, but also the copyright page is undated. One of the introductory pages bears a dedication, “To E. J. E., in Remembrance of ‘a Lone Hand,’ in London, 1886”; and that could be an indication of the date of publication.

This book copies liberally from the “Professor’s” book, and maybe that’s why the author’s name is not revealed. The 29-page chapter “Hints to Tyros” is lifted virtually verbatim, without a hint of a credit to the “Professor. Either it is blatant plagiarism, or it is a case of the “Professor’s” executors, heirs or publishers themselves extending their prior publication to the British Empire.

But the author takes issue with some of the “Professor’s” pronouncements: For example, the “Professor” had suggested that the opponents should get four points for euchring a lone hand; and the author of this book points out the folly of such a proposition.

And there is new material in this book: For one thing, it introduces us to “railroad euchre,” which may be the first euchre game played to ten points (but it was played with a 33-card pack, including a joker as “best bower”), and to “French euchre” (a misnomer) and “Napoleon,” both played with a 24-card pack.

And this book gives us our first glimpse of stealing the deal, in its presentation of the rules: “If a deal is made out of turn, it is good, provided it be not discovered before the dealer has discarded, and the eldest hand has led.

This book has a tedious eight-page description of “progressive” (tournament) euchre; but that is offset with a delightful little euchre story, about a priggish parson who is seduced by a comely widow with a card game. Other features are a 91-entry “Dictionary of Technical Terms” (exceeding the “Professor’s” by a dozen) and a comprehensive index.


The Game of Euchre, by John W. Keller
Frederick A. Stokes, New York, 1887, 82 pp., out of print

J. Todd Martin – a reader and avid player in London, Ohio – found on e-bay a copy of John W. Keller's The Game of Euchre, published by Frederick A. Stokes of New York in 1887. Todd bought it, and he was kind enough to share it with me. Thus began our quest for ancient euchre books.

How much Todd paid for this rare book is confidential, but I think I am at liberty to say that it cost him more than The Columbus Book of Euchre, Joseph D. Andrews’ The Complete Win at Euchre and John Ellis’ Euchre: The Grandpa Lou Way combined.

Joe Andrews would not call Keller’s work a “book,” I’m afraid: It’s only 82 pages long, with 78 pages of text. Compare that to The Columbus Book of Euchre with 90 pages (75 of text, also not a “book”) and Joe’s book with 171 pages (151 of text). And Keller’s work contains only 28 lines to the page, compared to 30 in Joe’s and