Today for our latest delve into Scottish history, Helen and I decided to visit Hamilton, some thirty miles from home. As Helen was born there she is very knowledgeable about the area and its history. Our objective for the day was Chatelherault ( Shat—ler—oh) a rather exceptional property that once belonged to Scotland’s foremost family, that of the Duke of Hamilton.

The Town of Hamilton Eleven miles south-east of Glasgow and thirty-six miles from Edinburgh the town of Hamilton sits awkwardly just off the M74 Motorway. I would guess that most tourists would bypass it without a second glance. With a strong industrial background of coal mining and a paucity of architectural heritage there is, apparently, very little to commend it. In digging deeper however some surprising historical detail emerges. From prehistory times a settlement existed where the town now stands This area called Cadzow appears in written records of the 6th century and was created a Barony by David I (1084—1153). Cadzow was retained as a name right up until 1445 when a Charter from James II to the first Lord Hamilton caused the name Hamilton to supersede the earlier name. The ruins of Cadzow Castle, a royal residence until the time of Robert the Bruce, and the place where Mary, Queen of Scots stayed before the Battle of Langside (1568), can still be seen from Chatelherault. The Dukedom of Hamilton.

The Hamilton family, descended from Walter Fitz Gilbert of Hameldone (1294) came into prominence in 1445 when James married Mary, the sister of James III. This marriage led, in 1599, to the bestowing of the rank of Marquis and, in 1643, the Dukedom of Hamilton.

After the death of James, the first Duke of Hamilton, the title passed to his brother William. William died as a result of the wounds that he received during the Battle of Worcester (1651) and the estate was administered by Duchess Anne (1632—1716). She was a remarkable administrator and the good fortune of the Hamiltons, at that time, was entirely due to her---- many of the Hamilton men proving to be rather weak and ineffectual.

By petitioning the King to create William Douglas, Earl of Selkirk, her husband ,as the third Duke of Hamilton she kept control of the estates during her lifetime although the Hamilton title then passed to the Douglas family. (Less than one hundred years before that event the Hamiltons and the Douglases were fighting a bitter feud.)

James, the 2nd Lord Hamilton (1477-1529), was created the first Earl of Arran in 1503. His mother’s first husband had originally held this title until 1469 at which time his estates were forfeited when his father was accused of treason against James III. The Island of Arran became the second seat of the Hamiltons, and was centred on Brodick Castle---now in the hands of the National Trust for Scotland. The third seat was at Kinneil near Bo’ness where the name Chatelherault is also well known.

His son James, the 2nd Earl of Arran, became Regent after the death of James the Fifth in 1542 and the succession of Mary. This position probably reflected the fact that, as the great great grandson of James II, he was heir presumptive to the throne. An extremely indecisive man he, for a time, supported the move to betroth the infant Mary to the six year old Edward of England. Later Arran’s change of mind contributed to the "Rough Wooing" when Henry VIII, in an attempt to persuade the Scots to accept federation with England, attacked the borders in the years 1544,1545 and 1547. The Earl of Huntly reputedly said that he "didn’t so much mislike the English match as the rough manner of wooing."

Arran, then supported Cardinal Beaton and Mary of Guise, Mary Queen of Scots mother, to betroth Mary to the French Dauphin and, upon its successful conclusion, as a reward, Arran was given the French Dukedom of Chatelherault.

There is, I am aware, a wealth of history not covered by the above brief synopsis of the Hamilton family but sufficient is given to assure us of the standing of the Dukes of Hamilton and to inform us how the very French name ‘Chatelherault’ came to be in the town of Hamilton.

In 1591 the first Palace was built for the Hamiltons and in 1707, as part of the ‘Great Design’ of Duchess Anne, it was extensively redesigned and enlarged. She did, however, not live to see the completion of her ideas. It was left to her grandson James, the 5th Duke of Hamilton, to engage the famous Scottish architect William Adam.

Apart from the Palace alterations, undoubtedly Adam’s most important addition to the property was Chatelheuraut which was built between the years 1732 and 1744. Deliberately erected for effect at the end of an imposing Grand Avenue stretching from the Palace towards the north it was built as an extensive and expensive folly mainly to create a magnificent view from the palace. In reality the building housed stables and dog kennels and included a hunting lodge and suite of banqueting rooms. The whole structure used for the Duke’s hunting in the High Parks area. An extravagant and expensive reminder of the wealth and power of the Hamilton family in these days.

Although, from a distance, Chatelherault gives an impression of grandeur it is, in reality a large wall with two buildings, one at each side. The property is only one room thick and the whole is lavishly decorated with scalloped walls, ball finials and ornate urns. All the hallmark of its architect William Adam. Adam is reputed to have referred to his building as "the dogg kennels at Hamilton" .Behind the property lies a formal garden or par-terre and courtyard.

The 20th Century

The Palace was finally demolished in 1921 because of its unsafe condition caused by centuries of mining operations. This was considered by some as a just form of ‘Miners Revenge’ for the exploitation of the local people by the Hamiltons !!!

The Grand Avenue was ruined when sand in vast quantities was extracted for sale. At the present time, from Chatelherault, there is 30 foot drop down to where the Avenue once stood.

Today, in the town of Hamilton the Mausoleum, dated 1840, the oldest house in Hamilton, (Portland House which was built for the Secretary of Duchess Anne and now used as a museum ), Chatelheuraut and vestiges of the Grand Avenue are all that remain, as a legacy, of the powerful Hamilton family.

After the second world war Chatelherault fell into serious disrepair and the Banqueting Room was virtually destroyed in the 1960s by vandalism and arson. After the death of the 14th Duke the property of Chatelherault, and part of the High Parks, was given in lieu of death duties (Tax) and a ten year restoration programme was commenced.

Renovation is now complete, has been extensive and in keeping with both the character and original purpose of the building. The present brochure for Chatelherault states that it included :-- "The re-instatement of the elaborate rococo interiors in the West Lodge. These replaced the original work of Thomas Clayton, which was rightly regarded as an outstanding example of the craft . The themes of hunting, feasting and the seasons of the year are displayed in a profusion of decoration, with portrayals of Roman gods, Baccus and Diana, in the ceiling panels of the Banqueting Room and the Duke’s Apartment."

Archaeological investigation of the garden has enabled a full and sensitive restoration of the Georgian parterre and it is now planted with traditional medicinal plants which would have been found in Scotland pre-1760.

The whole property forms the centre piece of a Country Park with pathways and woodland walks. Behind the building is a new visitor centre with displays, a shop, a café and a conference and function suite. The whole restoration has, undoubtedly, saved this unusual building for posterity and now forms the focal point of a very pleasant day out.

This then is the story of Chatelherault. Undoubtedly one of Scotland’s most elaborate follies and, for the present day visitor, a fascinating glimpse of the lifestyle of the very rich and famous of a bygone era.