SCIENTIFIC NAME- Pogona vitticeps. HABITAT/RANGE- Semi arboreal preferring a variety of habitats throughout that of eastern Australia. SIZE- A stocky type of lizard reaching 16-24 inches. LIFE SPAN- Under really good conditions 4-9 years. DIET- Primarily insects-grasshoppers mealworms etc, Also fresh greens and veggies finely chopped. Greens should make up about 20% of there diet. PERSONALITY- The Bearded Dragon has a rather large and loyal following. There temperment and general ease of care seem to make these little guys one of the most popular reptiles of the day. Becouse they are very territorial, special consideration must be taken in cage size and number of males kept together. They are fun and entertaining to watch for young and old. And as the price gets lower, and more colors are available lets hope they dont become the iguana of the 90s !.
The basic cage set up for a baby Bearded Dragon. A 15 gallon long aquarium, although a 10 gallon can be used. A screen top with a dome type light fixture. A 60 watt light bulb for heat, as well as a basking area. The night time red light bulb can be 40-60 watt as well. I believe that until a Dragon is at least a few months old the temp at night should not be that much less then day time temps. The red bulb does not bother them at night like a regular bulb would. So they have no problem sleeping at night. Remember to have the hot light on one end so they can have a hot end, and a cooler end. Also a VITA LITE type of a fixture is recommended for UV rays. Inside the aquarium you can add 1-2 in of sterilized play sand. or what ever substrate you want to use. A couple of pieces of cork bark or something to climb on. Also a small hide box. On the back wall about 1/2 way up put a small round thermometer one at each end of the cage. This way you allways know what the temp is at all times with just a glance. A water bottle for misting is a must. As this should be done 2 or 3 times a day. As this is one of the main ways they drink water is through the droplets. If you want you can put a small shallow dish of water in the cage. Your basking area should be around 95-100 degrees. And as a rule of thumb dont feed your dragons any crickets or insects any larger then 1/3 the size of there head. The only insect you should feed for the first few months are crickets. And try them on veggies a couple times a week, but chopped up fine.BREEDING TIP'S
After your female Dragon has had her eggs. A good way to help her get her strength back is to give her a pinkie mouse once or twice a week. Simply rub the pinkie mouse in a good calcium supplement. This will help her regain some of the calcium lost in haveing eggs."INFORMATION"
VITAMINS-There are many vitamins available for reptiles today. Any one feeding crickets and such should dust them with a good CALCIUM and D3 supplement at least 2 times a week. MINER-ALL with D3 is a excelent product. --------------------------------------------------------------- FEEDING-Many people dont know what size prey animals to feed(crickets mealworms etc). They go to the store and get large crickets and such. As a rule of thumb dont give your dragons any thing larger then ONE THIRD the size of your dragons head. Veggies are also enjoyed at times. The veggies should be chopped up into small pieces as they may choke on a large piece. ---------------------------------------------------------------- INTERNAL PARASITES-Can attack your dragons as well as other reptiles you may have. Dont wait for the warning signs, runny stool, weight loss, worms in the stool. Sometimes there are no signs until its to late. Internal parasites can be picked up by your dragon from such as pinkie mice crickets etc. Have a stool sample tested once a year at your vet, this is usually under $10.00 and if he finds nothing its still worth it. COCCIDIA is a internal parasite that is often found in bearded dragons today, and usually taken care of by your veterinarian. ---------------------------------------------------------------BREEDING DRAGON'S
If your looking to breed bearded dragons (they will usually breed when you have a male and a female together if you want them to or not). A few things to keep in mind. HEALTH-You should make sure your dragons are free of parasites. This can be done by takeing a stool sample to your local herp vet. If they are you can fix the problem before breeding. ENCLOSURE-Make sure you have enough room in your breeding cage, a good idea is a 75 gallon or bigger size cage for 1 male and 1-2 females. when your female starts digging around, place a mound or a container with potting soil slightley damp at one end of the enclosure. You can start a couple small holes at the bottom of the pile and then she can decide if she wants to use the holes you started or make her own. Make sure the dirt is just damp enough so she can dig a hole with out the hole caveing in. Make sure you mark the spot she is digging in, as soon as she has them she will cover them up so well you wont think there was ever a hole there. ------------------------------------------------------------"EGG INCUBATION"
After the female has completed laying her eggs, and before you dig them up to transfer to the incubator make sure that your incubater has been calibrated for the correct temperature. Ideally about 84 degrees for at least 3 days or more before you place your eggs there. Before you dig up the eggs get your vermiculite ready in some kind of a tupperware type container. Remember to put a few small holes in the lid of the container for air to move freeley around the eggs. A lid is a good thing to have on your container becouse when dragons are first hatched they can be very very quick. Mix up all your vermiculite that your going to use with warm water, so the vermiculite is damp to the touch but not wet. You can make a small indent in the vermiculite with a finger pushing down about 1/2 inch or so, then make sure the egg will fit on it's side. (REMEMBER TO PUT THE EGG IN THE VERMICULITE THE SAME EXACT WAY YOU TAKE IT OUT OF THE BURROW). You can use many types of thermometers such as the round ones that stick on the wall. I have used RADIO SHACK ones with the temperature and the probe this way you can put the probe inside the incubator and the base outside, makes it a lot easier to check the temp inside. The price runs around $20-$30.00 for this type of thermometer. Incubators are available from the very simple to the ver1y fancy, the one for poultry is good its by HOVABATER and sells from $30.00-$50.00. This one you can regulate from the top that way you dont have to open it to do so. You can also keep a small water bottle inside the incubator, that way when you mist the eggs the water will be the same as the temp inside. The incubation temperature should run between 82-85, again ideally about 84 degrees. ---------------------------------------------------------------- PLEASE VISIT MY 2 nd PAGE BELOW. This page contains a couple photographs at this time, more will follow as MY 2nd page is still under construction. Please let me know what you think of the new way. ....This page was updated on 4/17/2000....
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