HELLO BEARDED DRAGON FANS

SCIENTIFIC NAME- Pogona vitticeps.  
HABITAT/RANGE- Semi arboreal preferring a variety of 
habitats throughout that of eastern Australia.
SIZE- A stocky type of lizard reaching 16-24 inches.
LIFE SPAN- Under really good conditions 4-9 years.
DIET- Primarily insects-grasshoppers mealworms etc, 
Also fresh greens and veggies finely chopped. Greens
should make up about 20% of there diet.
PERSONALITY- The Bearded Dragon has a rather large and 
loyal following. There temperment and general ease of 
care seem to make these little guys one of the most
popular reptiles of the day. Becouse they are very
territorial, special consideration must be taken in 
cage size and number of males kept together. They are
fun and entertaining to watch for young and old. And as
the price gets lower, and more colors are available lets 
hope they dont become the iguana of the 90s !.

"BASIC CAGE SET UP"

The basic cage set up for a baby Bearded Dragon. A 15 
gallon long aquarium, although a 10 gallon can be used.
A screen top with a dome type light fixture. A 60 watt 
light bulb for heat, as well as a basking area. The 
night 
time red light bulb can be 40-60 watt as well. I 
believe 
that until a Dragon is at least a few months old the 
temp 
at night should not be that much less then day time 
temps. 
The red bulb does not bother them at night like a 
regular 
bulb would. So they have no problem sleeping at night.
Remember to have the hot light on one end so they can 
have 
a hot end, and a cooler end. Also a VITA LITE type of a 
fixture is recommended for UV rays. Inside the aquarium 
you can add 1-2 in of sterilized play sand. or what 
ever 
substrate you want to use. A couple of pieces of cork 
bark 
or something to climb on. Also a small hide box. On the 
back wall about 1/2 way up put a small round 
thermometer 
one at each end of the cage. This way you allways know 
what the temp is at all times with just a glance. A 
water 
bottle for misting is a must. As this should be done 2 
or 
3 times a day. As this is one of the main ways they 
drink 
water is through the droplets. If you want you can put 
a 
small shallow dish of water in the cage. Your basking 
area
should be around 95-100 degrees. And as a rule of thumb 
dont feed your dragons any crickets or insects any 
larger 
then 1/3 the size of there head. The only insect you 
should 
feed for the first few months are crickets. And try 
them on 
veggies a couple times a week, but chopped up fine.
BREEDING TIP'S

After your female Dragon has had her eggs. A good way to
help her get her strength back is to give her a pinkie
mouse once or twice a week. Simply rub the pinkie mouse
in a good calcium supplement. This will help her regain 
some of the calcium lost in haveing eggs.
"INFORMATION"

VITAMINS-There are many vitamins available for reptiles
today. Any one feeding crickets and such should dust
them with a good CALCIUM and D3 supplement at least 
2 times a week. MINER-ALL with D3 is a excelent product.
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FEEDING-Many people dont know what size prey animals to
feed(crickets mealworms etc). They go to the store and
get large crickets and such. As a rule of thumb dont
give your dragons any thing larger then ONE THIRD the 
size of your dragons head. Veggies are also enjoyed at 
times. The veggies should be chopped up into small
pieces as they may choke on a large piece.
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INTERNAL PARASITES-Can attack your dragons as well as
other reptiles you may have. Dont wait for the warning
signs, runny stool, weight loss, worms in the stool.
Sometimes there are no signs until its to late. 
Internal parasites can be picked up by your dragon from
such as pinkie mice crickets etc. Have a stool sample
tested once a year at your vet, this is usually under
$10.00 and if he finds nothing its still worth it.
COCCIDIA is a internal parasite that is often found
in bearded dragons today, and usually taken care of
by your veterinarian.
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BREEDING DRAGON'S

If your looking to breed bearded dragons (they will
usually breed when you have a male and a female
together if you want them to or not). A few things to
keep in mind. 
HEALTH-You should make sure your dragons are free of
parasites. This can be done by takeing a stool 
sample to your local herp vet. If they are you can
fix the problem before breeding.
ENCLOSURE-Make sure you have enough room in your
breeding cage, a good idea is a 75 gallon or bigger
size cage for 1 male and 1-2 females. when your female
starts digging around, place a mound or a container 
with potting soil slightley damp at one end of the 
enclosure. You can start a couple small holes at the
bottom of the pile  and then she can decide if she
wants to use the holes you started or make her own.
Make sure the dirt is just damp enough so she can
dig a hole with out the hole caveing in.
Make sure you mark the spot she is digging in, as
soon as she has them she will cover them up so
well you wont think there was ever a hole there.
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"EGG INCUBATION"

After the female has completed laying her eggs, and before
you dig them up to transfer to the incubator make sure
that your incubater has been calibrated for the correct
temperature. Ideally about 84 degrees for at least 3
days or more before you place your eggs there. Before 
you dig up the eggs get your vermiculite ready in some
kind of a tupperware type container. Remember to put a
few small holes in the lid of the container for air to
move freeley around the eggs. A lid is a good thing to 
have on your container becouse when dragons are first
hatched they can be very very quick. Mix up all your
vermiculite that your going to use with warm water,
so the vermiculite is damp to the touch but not wet. 
You can make a small indent in the vermiculite with a
finger pushing down about 1/2 inch or so, then make sure
the egg will fit on it's side. (REMEMBER TO PUT THE EGG
IN THE VERMICULITE THE SAME EXACT WAY YOU TAKE IT OUT
OF THE BURROW). You can use many types of thermometers
such as the round ones that stick on the wall. I have 
used RADIO SHACK ones with the temperature and the probe
this way you can put the probe inside the incubator and 
the base outside, makes it a lot easier to check the
temp inside. The price runs around $20-$30.00 for this
type of thermometer. Incubators are available from the
very simple to the ver1y fancy, the one for poultry is
good its by HOVABATER and sells from $30.00-$50.00.
This one you can regulate from the top that way you
dont have to open it to do so. You can also keep a 
small water bottle inside the incubator, that way 
when you mist the eggs the water will be the same as
the temp inside. The incubation temperature should run
between 82-85, again ideally about 84 degrees. 

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PLEASE VISIT MY 2 nd PAGE BELOW. This page contains a
couple photographs at this time, more will follow as
MY 2nd page is still under construction. Please let
me know what you think of the new way.
        ....This page was updated on 4/17/2000.... 

REMEMBER WARM WEATHER IS HERE, CHECK YOUR CAGE TEMPERATURES DAILY








              

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