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LSCTech
Ihave collected some information both thru my own trials and tribulationsand also from other more knowledgable sources ,one such source has beenDon Jones "Lots of 5.0 experience". I will try to keep this updatedas much as time permits and also ask you to contribute any info which youthink will be beneficial.
The Mk series from 87-92 use the speed density version of the 5.0 enginefrom the Mustang.While it is the same internally a few small changes weremade in consideration for the kind of person Lincoln aimed the car at.Mostof these have to do with quieting the motor and ease of assembly.I willcover as much as I know.

(Following at bottom are tips from our LSC mailing list memebers)1: Starting from the front,the air silencer.It is located inside the frontfender and is where your engine gets its air.Its purpose is to slow downthe rush of air ,to quiet it.It also causes a restriction in your airflow.Toremove it start by removing your air cleaner.Next unbolt the air cleanerhousing from fender in engine bay.Next remove bolts holding silencer whichyou will see thru hole in fender,now the air silencer will drop into fenderand you will have to wiggle it out the bottom.Bolt everything else backup and you are done,you will now get a nice healthy roar when you stepon it.
2:The rubber air hose that goes from the air cleaner to the throttle bodyhas a built in restriction on the inside unlike the one on the Mustang.Iimagine it serves same purpose to quiet down engine and to speed up flowat low speed.Take off clamps,remove rubber hose,toss as far as your strengthwill allow.Replace with hose from Speed density 86-88 Mustang only.Hosefrom 89-93 Mass air car will not work.This will open up the top end performancequite a bit.Not bad for a 10-15 dollar hose.
3:On the 86-early 87 LSC the throttle body and egr plate are smaller than Mustang.Theyare same as 86 Mustang which had smaller inlet. Swap with stock 60mm partsfrom any Automatic Mustang from 87-93.
4:The stock exhaust system on all MKVII are attrocious,this comes fromthe fact that the gas tank is huge and hard to get around and to matchthe other low speed components we discussed above.The pipes actually neckdown to below 2" in some places and are very restrictive.You willneed to find an exhaust shop that does custom work and have them make youa 2 1/2 exhaust.If they complain or say they have to use smaller pipesfind another shop.Mine was done by Florida Performance (954)-491-1012 Theowners name is Robert..It took me a couple of months of looking and I hadto drive over an hour but is well worth it.It fits perfect and looks andsounds awesome.It cost me $150 for the pipes and $75 for the mufflers(Dynomax)which I provided. While I know that most of you do not live near here Iprovided the number so that you can have your exhaust place call him incase they need proof that it can be done right.This will combine with thechanges you have already done to intake side and really wake the engineup. 

These changes will let the engine breathe as it should by removing allthe obstacles provided by Lincoln in their infinite wisdom.It will probablyget better gas milage too as an added bonus.You will feel most of the differenceon the upper side of the rev band.
Down low not much is going to help as you are moving 4000plus pounds witha small motor.To get the 5.0 into its power quicker you will have to consideradding gears and a performance shift kit for your transmision along witha tranny cooler for longer life out of the tranny.
5:This last mod is not related to the engine but suspension.If you wouldlike to adjust the ride height of your car look on the front a-arms andcenter of rear end,You will find what look like tiny shocks,they are ridesensors.Loosen bottom screw,longer lowers that side,shorter raises thatside.
__________________________________________________________________________________THE FOLLOWING ARE TIPS FROM OUR LSC MAILING LIST___________________________________________________________________________________Bill Trout wrote: Hey bud, glad to see someone else of size likes the car too. I am 6'1" 230 lbs. Great car, only advice I have is on the center console, do not leave a cold drink in the cup holders on a warm day, the sweat from the cup drips into the window and mirror switches, and if the right crud is above them it will short them out. It burnt up both window motors, and screwed up my mirrors. If I think of anything else I will pass it along. Thanks for having something on the ole LSC Mark VII, the only REAL higher tech hot rod lincoln. __________________________________________________________________________________Donald K. Jones wrote: I learned something: The LSC has a 100 amp alternator. It looks exactly like the Mustang alternator. I'm going to take a closer look when I have the cover off of my Mustang, but it may be a great charging system upgrade. Direct plug-up, $83.00 rebuilt price.__________________________________________________________________________________ Forrest Nearing wroteI did the heater core in my Mark a couple of monthsago... its not that fun, but GET A DREMMEL... orborrow one or something,If the assy is the same as my 88, you have to drainyour freon to do it by the book, and you have to pullout the entire ducting attached to the firewall(blower, fan, heater core housing, etc...) what Idid was cut the box that houses the heater core in away to facilitate removal... I pulled it out, and slid the new one in...now... I didn't have a cutting wheel, so the boxdidn't have a "lid" or large piece of plastic to sealthe box back up...SO, I grabbed a CD case off of the floorboard andtrimmed it so that it matched the hole I had cut...grabbed a tube of high temp silicone and sealed thewhole thing up...I put the dash back on and cranked it up...heater works fine...It's a chore, I'd say it took about 8-9 hrs includingparts runs, but after two winters without a heater,I'm loving it... good luck, just make sure you wireeverything back up before you put the dash back on (Ino longer have a functioning trunk button) you won'twant to pull it again...unbolt the steering column and let the steering wheelhang down...unbolt the dash, and kinda angle it away from thewall on the pass side...I used bungee cords to pull it back to give me enoughroom to work... it was tight I'm 6'4", but you don'thave to pull the dash completely or remove the passseat... ummmm..... oh yeah center console has to come outtoo...once you get in there and start pulling bolts n'stuff, it gets pretty easy, no real road blocks...good luck... mail me back or post on corral if youneed any more helpstinkin' Lincoln__________________________________________________________________________ Hi Frank, Bill Luke here... I still have that problem with my brakes on my 90 LSC. But, I've recently figured out that it happens mainly when the air conditioner is on. To refresh your memory, once in a while, when I go to stop, the car veers mainly to the right and barely stops at all. It seems like a couple of the brakes lock. The Lincoln dealer has checked out this problem a few times, couldn't find anything, and recently replaced the brakes. That did not work. Well, I think maybe the air conditioner is causing a voltage drop in the system that could be messing up the computer??? Could it be a short? Should I look at the electric motors you mentioned that apply the brakes? Could you post this out to the other guys again and see if they have had any experience with this? This is a scary problem, I've just about ate my lunch on the highway buy I'm not about to get rid of my LSC!!!!
__ Don Jones wrote Hmmmmm - This is a tuff one. Unless the antilock brake warning is coming on, I honestly don't think the A/C is involved. Unless the antilock brake mechanism is activated, there is nothing electrical about the brakes. Of course, (caveat coming) there's no substitute for being there. My guess is he has water condensation in one or more of his calipers. Ford brakes are famous for this. When the brakes get hot, the water boils, and steam doesn't create much hydraulic pressure. Couple cures, and I would recommend the last one: Remove each caliper, disassemble it, and clean everything out with alcohol. Then sand the caliper bore out with 600 grit sandpaper and reassemble with a new "o" ring and dust seal (re-build kits that cost about $5.00 apiece). OR (drum roll) - take it to a good brake shop and have them bleed the system with an evaculator (vacuume pump that actually sucks the fluid out through the bleed valves), and replace the fluid with DOT 4. Many road courses are starting to make this a mandatory part of the pre-track safety inspection. Good luck. The only Lincolns that use the power steering pump are the ones without antilock brakes. All the antilock brake LSCs use an electric pump to maintain pressure in the accumulator. However, the brakes work normally unless the antilock function is invoked. i.e., the brake pedal creates pressure in the system that is transferred to all brake wheel cylinders. If in antilock mode, the computer bypasses the regular path and uses the stored pressure to pump the brakes on the appropriate wheels. A failure of this pump (electrical problem) would simply disable the antilock brakes and cause the warning light to come on. The brakes would still function normally. This is why I said that I didn't think it was an electrical problem. :-) Did I clear things up, or just make it worse? In any case, I hope he gets his brakes fixed.__________________________________________________________________________________ Mark Bench wrote: (concerning air suspension) I have heard from several people about running a diagnostic on the system, but nobody told me how to do it. Does this sound right? and if so how is it done?
___ Don Jones wrote: I believe you have a front airbag that is leaking. Here is my reasoning:The four plastic tubes that feed air to the airbags all start out as onetube at the top of the compressor. A leak in any one tube would keepall four airbags from filling. The same tubes that fill the airbags areused to deflate them. The solenoid on each air bag opens while thecompressor isn't running, and the air escapes through the compressor. Again, if a solenoid were leaking, none of the airbags could inflate. The compressor works, because it fills the rear wheel airbags. Therefore, any leak must be AFTER the solenoid to only effect one set ofairbags. Since both front airbags would try to fill at the same time, aleak in either airbag would cause the problem that you are having. There are three ways to find the leak. 1. Use a spray bottle with soapywater and wet down the front airbags while the system is trying to fillthem. You will probably see bubbles; 2. Remove the fill line (plastichose) from one front airbag and cover the end with your finger while thesystem is trying to fill the bags. If you have the right one, the otherbag will now be able to fill (the hose will come out of the littleferrell where it attaches to the airbag fill solenoid by just tugging onit sharply); or 3. run individual wheel diagnostics. These diagnosticsare rather complicated to try to type out. _________________________________________________________________________FROM: "Tom Firlotte" The compass on this car is not accurate, so i tried to reset it(paper clip) it did no good. A supplier of mine recomended "paper clip in reset,and slowly drive in acircle ending up pointin to true north" Any feedback? Tom (The Phone Man) Firlotte
___Don Jones wrote Now for your current problem: The procedure for setting the compass isin the Owner's Manual. You point the vehicle due North. Be VERYcareful not to be around any metal (or metal reinforced) structures, orunder power lines, Like any compass, this one is very sensitive tomagnetic fields. I would go to a large empty parking lot at a mall(before or after store hours), and be sure that there are no power linesoverhead or under ground. Yeah, it's possible to be parked over aburied power cable - flukes happen. Park the car pointing due North. You may have to bring along another compass to get yourself oriented. Now follow the instructions in the Owner's Manual about hitting thereset. Remember, if you are under power lines or next to largesteel-reinforced buildings, your compass will not be 100% accurate. Hope this helps._________________________________________________________________________________ Ellison, Elaine wrote:I noticed your kind offer for advice on Mark VIIs on the Web.I have a 1988 Mark VII Bill Blass edition which I adore. However,of late I have encountered a problem that the dealers cannotseem to correct and I thought you may have run across the problem.A few months ago I had both the ignition switch and the alternator replaced (ignition switch because the key would moveslightly in the ignition and cause the car to lose power; the alternator because the speedometer was indicating a speed of 85 MPH while the car was at a standstill). The replacement ofthe parts corrected the aforementioned problems AND created two new problems which are, of course, are intermittent.When the car sits for several hours (overnight or during working hours) the car will not start - the engine will crank but not turn over. If I repeat the followingprocess THREE times, the car will usually start: turn the key to the AUX/ON position and wait ten seconds turn the key to the OFF position and wait ten secondsOccasionally when driving the car will simply shut off - it doesn't sputter and stall - it just shuts off! Kind of scary when you are on a four lane highwaytravelling at 55 MPH. The process mentioned above is needed to restart the car after this happens.The dealers have since replaced the ignition switch again(just in case I had gotten a bad one), the battery cables,wiring, and some relays. In addition, the fuel pressure was checked and deemed to be sufficient even when the carwould not start thereby ruling out a fuel pump problem. Their latest "guess" since this car will not self diagnose is that it COULD be the processor and it would only cost me ~$400 to try that with no guarantees that the problem willbe fixed. As a single woman I am trying to do some research and talk to other people who may have experienced the same problem so that I can avoid the "she's a woman, she doesn't know anything about cars" syndrome. Any suggestions? Thank you, in advance,
___Don Jones wrote, I want to get a little more information. My firstinclination would be the TFI module on the side of the distributor, butthis is an electrical part and is not returnable. Therefore, I want tobe sure before we just start throwing money at the problem. :-)Elaine - Please clairify a few points for me:1. What do you mean when you say the car will not self diagnose? Didthe garage try to extract error codes and get nothing?2. Tell me all you can about how they (garage) determined that he fuelpressure was good. Did they put the pressure gauge on the fuel rail andshow 39 # of pressure with the car just sitting there?3. Does the engine turn over when it doesn't start? I.e., do you hearthe eergh,eergh that you would normally hear just before the car whouldstart if everything were OK?4. Have you had ANY more trouble with your speedometer since Ford"repaired" it. I have trouble understanding what the alternator wouldhave to do with your speedometer.This is a difficult problem to diagnose from a distance, but if you willbe patient, and act as my eyes and ears, we should get through it allright.__________________________________________________________________________________Waldo7 wrote(concerning install of powerdyne blower on Lincoln)Well the Lincoln runs good. It beats a lot of cars now. The blower ison it and seeing 8 psi. I am installing a BTM on Monday to make up forsome low end timing because of the blower. My inital timing is 4 degreesand w/ the BTM will be 14-16 degrees. Lets just say it will make a BIGdifference in low end. When I get my Mustang up and running again the3.73 gears will go into the Lincoln. I have been crunching numbers and Ishould at least see 100 MPH in the quarter mile. I have also installed aphenolic spacer among other small items. Installing the Powerdyne was a little more work than installing it into a Mustang. The evaporative canister had to be moved down 3". The wireing harness is in the way and had to be relocated 2" back. I also needed to use the Powerdyne valve and bleeder for the speed density. Otherwise it is the same a the install on a Mustang._______________________________________________________________________________-Frank wrote: Do you know what the SCCS is for? Is it only for the dash computer? Someone said it is for the cruise control. I think the VSS is for the cruise control. Any ideas?___ Don Jones wroteThe SCCS was a mid '87 model year change that incorporated the cruisecontrol into the ECU - rather than having a seperate computer for thecruise control. My LSC is an early (February mfg. date) '87 model anddoesn't have SCCS. Also, it isn't in my manuals. All I know is: Ifyou have a SCCS equiped car, your EEC-IV computer is unique. All otherswill interchange with the Mustang's ECU. Sorry, but I guess I will haveto take a poor grade on this quiz. ;-}__________________________________________________________________________________ C.Schiavino wrote: I e-mailed you earlier, and now I have another question. I just got mystereo system installed (cd player,amp,box in trunk) and after I got itback, the check suspension light was on. I assume it refers to the airride system. Is there any chance there was a relation to the lightcoming on b/c of the system? I have turned the air ride switch on andoff a couple of times, but no change. Is there anything I can do tocheck what the problem is before I have to take it to the shop. Rememberwhat I said before, I am not mechanically inclined.
___Frank wrote Sounds like they messed up one of the computer wires for the air suspension,the ride computer is located in trunk bewtween rear speakers.Definately get it checked out without it you can damage youre airsprings which are expensive to fix.
___C.Schiavino wrote: I set up an appointment with the stereo place about the suspension for Saturday. I went ahead and checked the fuses hoping I would find a blown one. However, I did not. I was just wondering what other options there are for this light (check suspension)to stay on and is there anything I can do to maybe fix the problem. Also, I just got my car back from getting painted, so let me know where I can send the picture. Thanks again, you are a godsend.
___Don Jones wrote??I agree with you. He should take it back to the stereo shopimmediately! The ride control computer is very sensitive. It will nottolerate anyone tapping into the power or grounding wires. Also, thewires for the rear ride height sensor are right below the axil hump. Ifthey damaged those wires in any way....BTW, just for your information: The computer that resides between therear speakers (under the package shelf) is for the keyless entrysystem. The computer for the fide control is behind the spare, just tothe front of the on/off switch. If I were your friend, I would lookover the stereo installation VERY carefully - to see what they connectedwhere. ____________________________________________________________________________John Herrick wrote,Frank answered> - tell me about bill blass editions, usually cheaper interiors, right?Dont know much about them except they are a designer edition,there werealso Cartier versions and others.
> - how many s.e. models made ?Dont know exact numbers but something like 500 a year from 90-92 in eachcolor(black\burgandy)
> - After 87, did any ( i.e. bill blass, or base) model come with less than the 225 hp motor?They all have same engine,the difference is in the suspension and ridecomputer.The LSC is the only one I would recomend for high speed drivingThe air bags are stiffer as are the struts and shocks
> - Will t-bird hood fit mk7? (83-86 tbirds have similar body lines as mk7)Nope.
> - Does gts make headlight cover for mk7?yes
> - Do you still use oem foglights, usually they are the first to not work-(whenever I look at a used mk..)
> - Who makes them? Marchal?Yes and yes
> - Do all models have 4wl discs? Or just lsc's?All as far as I know
> - Also, have you ever heard of a conversion (expensive?) to a t-5 or similar bolt in 5speed tranny... is it possible?Yes all you need are the t-5 parts\pedal assembly and linkages from a tbird turbocoupe.It will bolt up but dont know the specifics
> - By following your lowering instructions on your web page tech section, how much could I lower the car?without modifying the arm about 2"if you modify it to extend farther it can go really low or high____________________________________________________________________________________Frank wrote(concerning speedo)Even though it is electric it still uses a gear on the tranny same asMustang.The difference is it has an electric hookup to it instead ofcable.You can still swap seedo gear.As far as shift points if ,I amracing I shift it manually at 6000(my stock tach is off by about 500rpm ontop.)This gave me best stock times at strip.________________________________________________________________________________________Frank wrote: So the brake booster still works on vacuum?I thought thats what the electric pump was for.So if someone with abs brakes who was financially challenged wanted to all they need to do is pull the entire assembly and install the corresponding parts from a non abs Mustang?
___Don Jones wroteTo be perfectly correct - the system works on hydraulic pressure, justlike any other brake system. There is no vacuume booster on the LSC ABSsystem. Assist comes from residual pressure in the fluid reservoir; andthis pressure is initially generated by the ABS pump. The system ispassive, and will continue to work without power, as a NON-ASSISTEDnormal brake system (spell that brakes, but not POWER brakes). Toconvert, you would need to fabricate new brake lines to go from theMustang master cylinder to the Mustang distribution block, the Mustangmaster cylinder, and the vacuume booster, also from the Mustang. Andprobably a half dozen more parts that I am over-looking. I wouldsuggest converting over to the power steering pump assisted, non-ABSLincoln system. Probably about the same cost from the bone yard, and amuch mor direct replacement. Just my $.02. :-)_____________________________________________________________________________________ NLWW12A@prodigy.com (MR PETER C PASQUALINI)I know how to run diagnostics on the air suspension. Anyone esiring this should e-mail me. I can fax the instructions to you. Pete's Ponies____________________________________________________________________________________ANY QUESTIONS ON ANYTHING FEEL FREE TO EMAIL ME