The following is a retyped text of a brochure mailed to me in 1963 from the island after being assigned to duty at Chichi Jima, Bonin Islands. Although I feel that there are a few historical inaccuracies, I am providing it in it's original form. When I discovered it in some long forgotten papers, it was apparent that the ink (old purple mimeograph) used in it's production was rapidly fading, hence the need to retype it. Then I reasoned, why not do it in HTML and put it up on the web site for all to see. THIS IS THE CHICHI JIMA I LIKE TO REMEMBER. IT DOESN'T EXIST ANYMORE.
Chichi Jima is part of the chain of islands known as the Bonins and lies at 27 degrees North, 142 degrees East, approximately 500 miles South of Japan and 800 miles North of Guam.
The history of the Bonin Islands has been interesting and varied. The islands are volcanic in origin and rank among the most beautiful to be found anywhere in the world. They are rugged with many small inlets and fringing reefs. The surrounding waters abound with various species of fish, which provide the main source of income for the islanders and many hours of sport for the Naval and Marine personnel stationed here.
The Bonin Islands were not discovered until 1543, when a group of Spanish ships commanded by the explorer Villalobos sailed North from the Philippines and eventually arrived at the island that is now known as Chichi Jima. They did not explore the island, nor put anyone ashore because they were running low on water. If they had investigated the island of Chichi Jima more closely, they would have found sparkling spring water in abundance, which would later become the source of replenishment for whalers working in the area.
The Japanese later were to claim that they had discovered the Bonin Islands as early as the twelfth century, A.D. There is some evidence that a Japanese warrior named Ogasawara did, in fact, go to the islands in the latter part of the sixteenth century and attempt to establish a colony on Chichi Jima. The venture was a failure however, and Chichi Jima again returned to her isolation. The Japanese gave the islands the name "Ogasawara Gunto" in honor of the first representative to their country to set foot on the shores of Chichi Jima. On charts today, there are three names listed for the islands, "The Bonins", "Ogasawara Gunto", and the "Arizobopos", which is the name given the islands by the Spanish.
There is no record of any other visits to the Bonins until 1820, when an American whaling ship skippered by a Captain Coffin set foot on the island that is now known as Haha Jima. The British didn't visit the Bonins until five years later, but returned in 1827and formally took possession in the name of the crown.
In 1830, the British Consul in Hawaii formed an expedition to settle the Bonins. Included in the group was an adventure seeking young American from New Bedford, Massachusetts named Nathaniel Savory. Nat, who was 26 at this time, was not happy with the whaling ship on which he was sailing, nor did he wish to return to his boyhood home in Massachusetts--at least not for the time being. He was destined to become the outstanding figure in the history of the Bonin Islands and is largely responsible for the retention of many American customs in the islands, even through some 80 years of domination by the Japanese.
Also included in the expedition which left Honolulu were another American, a man named John Millenchamp--two Englishmen, Henry Webb and Charles Robinson, and one Portuguese, Joachin Gonzales. Also included were twenty Hawaiians.
Of this first group of settlers, descendants of Nathaniel Savory, Henry Webb, Joachin Gonzales, and Charles Robinson still live on the island. However, the only member of the Robinson family now living is a 73 year old lady; and there is only one Gonzales family still on the island. A deserter from a whaler who assumed the honored name of "George Washington" is the starting point for another large family on the island. The Savory, Webb, and Washington families still maintain a friendly rivalry, but the Washingtons always have the clincher, each February 22'nd. Then, they say to the Webbs and Savorys, "The Navy people aren't working today because it's my grandfathers birthday."
The original colony flourished and prospered from the start, despite being ravaged by visiting whaling ships. A high point was a visit by Commodore Matthew Perry in 1853. The Commodore, who was to gain fame on this journey by "opening the closed doors of Japan" purchased a tract of land from Nathaniel Savory adjacent to what is now known as "Ten Fathom Hole." He hoped to establish a coaling station and a regular port of call for United States ships.
Despite the many letters of Nathaniel Savory, and the influences of Commodore Perry, the United States took no interest in establishing a Navy base in the Bonins. After all, as was being said in Washington, "It does belong to the British, doesn't it?"
The British were taking little interest in their "possession," however, they sent an Italian, Matteo Mazzaro, to act as governor. However, the islanders largely ignored Mazzaro's attempts at governing them. It is a tradition on the island that old Nat raised the Stars and Stripes each morning over his home in direct defiance of British "ownership." Nat realized that without the active support of either the United States or Britain, it was hopeless to expect the Bonins to develop to anything over a bare subsistance level. And old Nat made no secret of the fact that he definitely preferred the United States to take the role as guardian of the Bonins.
However, the "opening of the doors to Japan" had other effects than merely providing an outlet for U.S. trade. The Japanese looked out of what had been their tight little world and realized that to be a significant power in the larger world which they had now entered, they would have to expand their boundaries. They reached the conclusion that the control of the many Pacific islands was the secret in enabling them to increase their world power. They turned their eyes to the Bonins.
With no audible word of protest from either the British or the United States, the Japanese sent a group of settlers to Chichi Jima in 1867. The first words of the leader of the Japanese expedition, who spoke good English, were, "We are so glad to have you here Mr. Savory. You see, these islands have belonged to Japan since they were discovered by our country in the twelfth century."
Not knowing quite what to do about his unwelcome tennants, Nat provided them with tracts of land. However, due to their traditional rice diet and lack of this staple on the Bonins, they failed at this, their first attempt at colonization.
They came back, however. In 1876, the Japanese arrived again. This time, they were better prepared to cope with the existing conditions. Old Nat was not here to greet them now, becase he had died in 1872 at the age of 80.
The original settlers got along with the Japanese,
but were gradually eased away from the better land.
With typical Japanese efficiency, all of the
islands of the Bonins were thoroughly colonized and utilized to the utmost.
New industries were established, and from all appearances the islands prospered.
Despite the influx of the Japanese, most of the original settlers maintained their ties with their original countries. They continued to speak English in their homes, but Japanese was the only language taught in the schools. Even today, a few of the older people still retain the "Harvard accent" which was passed down from the original New Englanders.
Time passed through one world war, which didn't effect the lives of the Bonin Islanders in the least. Many of the old timers tell of the times during their boyhood when they took passage on ships stopping in the Bonins so as to "see the world." Uncle Charlie Washington, who was last there in 1906, never wants to go to San Francisco again, because "life is just too fast there to suit me."
Beginning in the 1930's, the Japanese started to fortify the islands. A large Marine base and air station was established. At one time, there were nearly 25,000 troops on the island including a Japanese Admiral and a General. According to islanders who were here at the time, they were somewhat jealous of each other.
With the first American bombings of the Bonins in 1943, the Island people were evacuated to Japan. They found life difficult in Japan, as food was scarce in that beleagured country and was made more scarce to the Bonin Islanders because of their caucasian features.
After the Japanese surrender, the United States Marines peacefully took possession of the Bonin Islands in December, 1945. As there was doubt as to who would have control over the islands, the Marines destroyed and burned all equipment and buildings considered to be of military value.
With the war over, the once beautiful island of Chichi Jima was in shambles. Most buildings of any value had been destroyed. Four men were returned to Chichi Jima to serve as witnesses in the war crime trials which were being held. They petitioned the Military Governor, Commander in Chief, U.S. Pacific Fleet for permission to return descendants of the original settlers to their island home. They stated their case well, for permission was granted, and in 1946, about 130 people returned to Chichi Jima.
It was almost as if the Islanders were placed in the position of their ancestors some 100 years before. Their was no evidence of their previous dwellings, except in the form of debris which was scattered everywhere. All utilities, waterlines, etc., had been destroyed. However the islanders made the most of what they had, and utilizing the few quonsets the Marines had left, settled down to their life as before.
The United States Navy was assigned responsibility for the island, and Naval personnel were assigned to help the Islanders construct shelters out of the available material. In 1952, a Naval Facility was established, and progress became more rapid.
The Island people themselves, had, since their return, taken sizable steps toward self improvement. They caught and dried fish for export and caught turtles and longousta for themselves and for sale. A five-man council was elected and formed laws for the settlement. With the assistance of Seabees, new water lines were laid some of the older ones repaired.
In April 1951, a Chief Petty Officer, Frederick A Pobst, was assigned as Resident Military Government Representative. Despite his large assignment, Chief Pobst did an outstanding job and is still remembered fondly by the Island people. His wife volunteered to teach school. Electrical service and the houses of the Islanders were further rehabilitated.
In 1952, Chief Pobst was relieved by Lieutenant Commander John Kelsey and a Naval Facility was formally established on Chichi Jima. Shortly thereafter, a detachment of Seabees arrived to construct houses for Naval Personnel, further repair the water system, and set up and wire generators for power and lights. They also started to rehabilitate the old Japanese airstrip, but this project was given up as impractical.
Ten years have elapsed and new problems are confronted almost daily. But these seem minor when you imagine what problems those stationed here must have faced when the Facility was instituted.
During this period, a new school and dispensary have been constructed. The school, named the "Admiral Radford School" after the man who had helped make the Islanders return possible, teaches both Island and Navy children. It's standards are demanding and students are well prepared to transfer to any stateside school after spending a couple of years here.
However, instruction is limited to the first seven grades and Island students who desire further education go either to Guam or Japan. Although Island children generally begin school with at least an limited command of the English language, their progress is rapid and they show up quite well in comparison to their fellow American students. In fact, for the past five years, the Outstanding Student Award, which goes to the student with the best grades in the graduating seventh grade class, has gone to an Island pupil.
The Medical Officer is responsible for the sanitation and health of the Islanders and their homes. He indiscriminately takes care of the needs of both Navy and Island families and provides emergency medical services for ships of any flag. The Facility's dispensary is well kept and maintained under the supervision of the Medical Officer and corpsman assigned with the able assistance of one of the Island women who acts both as a nurse and interpreter for the Medical Officer and has proven herself to be very capable in filling both jobs.
Recreational facilites are limited on the Island, but the abundance of historical lore and wealth of natural recreation opportunities, such as hiking, fishing, etc., give most people ample opportunity to occupy their leisure time. As is customary throughout the Navy, nightly movies are held except on Friday nights. The Island people are welcomed and enthusiastic guests. They get a great kick out of western movies.
Friday night is designated as "community night." Bingo games are held at the club. While the Islanders sometimes profess to have difficulty understanding English, they seem to have no trouble on Bingo nights and usually carry off the jackpot.
The Reverand Isaac Gonzales, of the Episcopalian faith, resides on Chichi and administers to the religious needs of the Islanders and military personnel of the Protestant faith. A Catholic Chaplain from Guam visits the Island on the average of four times a year to administer to those personnel of the Catholic faith.
Living and working with the Islanders of Chichi Jima is truly an experience. They have tall tales to tell of life in the "old days" during the Japanese occupation and all have stories to tell of their feats as divers, hunters, etc. A highlight of the year is the annual Fourth of July celebration when, after a few beers, the tales of their diving prowess generally increase by several fathoms and their marksmanship by several hundred yards.
The old-timers like to tell of how they were prohibited from speaking Japanse in their homes--in fact, how they were thumped hard if they did. Uncle Wilson Savory can talk to all day on life as it was in the old days--how the intrusion of the Japanese crowded all the original settlers into the area known then, and now, as "Yankeetown", of how Japanese soldiers used to hide in his house to escape their demanding drill masters, of how he was rewarded for hiding them by awards of food and other items.
Throughout the many long years of Japanese occupation, even though it covered nearly 100 years, the old-timers will still insist that through it all they always remained true to the Stars and Stripes. It is inspiring to hear the Bonin Island children raise our flag each morning, then pledge allegiance to the flag in accents of Japanese, but with a feeling from the heart.
The Japanese influence is predominant, however, for many years now, the only source of new blood has been from Japan. Indiscriminant migration to the Islands is not allowed, but the only place for a young Bonin Islander to obtain a bride is from Japan. Although this system of "catalog ordering" of brides seems strange to us, it is for the most part a happy arrangement. The brides, after coming to the Islands, make fine wives and within anyone's memory, none of these marriages have ever ended in divorce.
Uncle Wilson Savory, despite his advanced age (to us) of 76, still serves as Chief of Police, and with his .45 strapped on his hip, makes a truly imposing figure. He conscientiously enforces the edicts of the Bonin Island Council and Military Government Representative. Other patriarchs include Uncle Charlie Washington, who wears an impressive handle-bar mustache. Uncle Rufus Washington, Charlie's brother and his ex-fishing partner, is 85 and doesn't fish anymore, but is a faithful churchgoer, and until a year or so ago, operated a little farm in Yankeetown.
Frank Gonzales is now 79 and was formerly an accountant for an export company in Japan. He has been a long time council member and is respected by Islanders and Naval personnel alike for his wisdom and tact. He is an expert gardener and until seven years ago, taught the Island school. All of these old-timers are descendants of the original settlers. Their knowledge and lore of the old times is both fascinating and informative.
Deep sea fishng around the Bonins compares favorably with that found anywhere in the world. Most plentiful are the Wahoo, a streamlined game fish that resembles the Marlin. The Bonin Islanders like to spear them from their sea-going outrigger canoes, while Navy fishermen prefer the more conservative method of trolling with a feathered jig. Tuna are also in abundance.
Chichi Jima is in an area that is almost under constant threat from typhoons during the months from July to December. While the Navy provides up-to-date weather information, the Islanders often prefer to rely on their "homespun" methods. Uncle Wilson, for example, knows a typhoon isn't far off when the snails start to climb the trees, and judges the intensity of the winds by how far they climb. When their information doesn't coincide with the Navy dispatches, they scoff, "Navy Typhoon." As often as not, they are right.
It is easy to imagine the Bonin Islanders as an isolated, forgotten bit of the human race. It is the opinion of those of us who have had the good furtne to live with them that they are neither. They are a people who have known oppression, but have retained the love for their native island and confidence in the future. Their ways often seem strange to us who have become accustomed to a softer way of life, but their ways have enabled them to survive for more than a hundred years.
The worries of the atomic age are lost on these people. Their only apparent concern, at times, is whether or not the fish are biting, and whether or not there will be a ready market for their fish when they are caught. But this is a false impression. They hope for a better way of life for their children, just as we do for our own. They live not only for today, but also for the future. They want their children to have better education and better opportunities than they have enjoyed, just as we have the same hopes for our own children.
As for the Navy community, it consists of 14 homes. Thirteen are of wooden frame construction and were built in 1952 by a Seabee detachment. The other house is an ex-Japanese meteorological building, which has been converted into quarters for the Officer-In-Charge. All houses are completely furnished, but furniture and household appliances are provided by the Navy. This was deemed necessary, as people stationed here are required to pack their own household goods upon departure. It was decided that providing all of the household items would ease the difficulty of repacking household shipments.
The only things that will be necessary for you to bring with you to Chichi Jima are a full set of uniforms and clothing for yourself and your family. However, you will get a lot of use out of a short wave radio and record player. If you have either, bring them along. If you don't and would like to get one, either can be special ordered here at a considerable savings compared to the stateside price.
It is also advisable to bring along any hobby items which you may have. Picnics and outdoor barbecues are popular here. The Navy furnishes each house with a good-sized charcoal brazier, which you will probably put to considerable use during the warm summer months.
As no dry cleaning facilities are available on Chichi Jima, it is advisable that you bring mainly "wash and wear" items to Chichi Jima. Crepe soled shoes are practical due to the coral roads. Boondockers are furnished for military personnel. The weather does become cool in the winter, so it is advisable to bring along some sweaters and medium-weight jackets.
Logistic ships arrive on the average once every three weeks. A commissary store is maintained as a branch of the store in Guam. It carries about 300 "standard stock" items and each housewife prepares her "shopping list" of other items for the entire month. Exchange items can be ordered on a cost basis. This represents a real saving when compared with stateside prices. Due to the small number of military personnel at the facility, it is impossible for the store manager to carry a full line of goods, which necessitates the "special order" procedure. After you get the knack of thinking a month in advance, it presents go great problem.
You will be allowed one trip to either Japan or Hong Kong while you are here. If you wish to take leave in Japan, it is advisable that you obtain passports for your wife and children before you leave the states. It is possible to get the necessary paperwork done here, but due to the isoloation of the facility, delays often result. It is strongly advised that you establish a checking account before you arrive. Money orders can be obtained through the post office on Guam, but with considerable delay and risk.
Up receiving orders to Chichi Jima, concurrent travel should be requested from Commander Naval Forces Marianas. If housing is available here, concurrent travel will be granted. If housing is not available, a wait of three to six months is sometimes necessary, but generally, housing will be available. Nine of the Navy houses are two bedroom units, three are three bedroom units, and there is one four bedroom unit.
Private vehicles are not allowed on the Island, as there is only about six miles of improved road on the Island. Due to heavy rainfall during some months of the year, washouts are frequent and maintenance difficult. The climate is subtropical, with definite seasons. The "hot" months are from June to October, when the temperature sometimes gets as low as 50 degrees, but it never frosts on Chichi Jima. The humidity presents a problem and it is necessary to equip closets with heating elements to prevent mildew. It is highly recommended that any item of high value that could be damaged by mildew be left in safe storage in the states.
Chichi Jima lies directly in the path of the "typhoon belt" and during the months of July through December, is under continuing threat from typhoons. It is sometimes necessary to evacuate all dependents to the "typhoon shelter," which is not nearly as bad an experience as the name might imply. The kids really enjoy it, as movies are shown in the shelter and wives take advantage of the customary pastime of Navy wives everywhere, coffee and a "gabfest."
A visit or tour of duty on Chichi Jima should be welcomed as an experience that will never be forgotten. There are unlimited opportunities for sightseeing. The Island abounds in history and lore of World War II. It is most interesting to go through some of the old Japanese caves. Those which are off limits are clearly marked. Of particular interest are the old Japanese air strip and radio station. Fishing trips are arranged periodically and it is often possible to go out with one of the Island fishermen in their outrigger canoes. Beer ball games are customary upon the arrival of visiting ships.
The opportunities for a closely-knit family life are probably better on Chichi Jima than at any other Naval establishment in the world. Family picnics and hiking excursions are favorite pastimes. Organized entertainment is limited, but you shouldn't let this discourage you. The majority of people stationed here complain of not having sufficient time in which to accomplish all they wish to do, rather than voicing that age old, universal complaint of "not having anything to do." To put it simply, your tour on Chichi Jima can be as enjoyable as you yourself wish to make it. With a negative attitude, it can be miserable. With a positive and enthusiastic outlook, it can be one of the most enjoyable and rewarding experiences of your life and a time you will always remember with pleasure.
A SPECIAL WORD FOR THE SINGLE MAN
Most of this brochure has been concerned with information that is mainly of concern to the Navyman who anticipates bringing his wife and family to Chichi Jima. However there is additional information that should be added that will be of interest and of use to those of you without dependents.
You are allowed to keep civilian clothing in enlisted quarters. However, this is with the understanding that the privilege will not be abused. Personnel without dependents below the grade of E-7 are quartered in the barracks and the chiefs live in the BOQ. A full seabag is required, due to infrequent personnel inspections and the arrival of VIP's. Working uniform is dungarees or wash khakis. Seabee personnel are permitted to wear their green working uniform if they desire.
There is a variety of recreational opportunities for you here, although we must be quite frank and say that night life here does not have much to offer. We have an enlisted Men's Club and a bowling alley and ample water sports activities. There is a combination tennis-basketball-volleyball court. We also have a photo darkroom. This has proven to be a rewarding hobby for many single men stationed here due to the outstanding camera bargains that can be obtained in Japan and the outstanding photo subjects on Chichi Jima.
Of course, you will have the opportunity to take at least one trip to Japan, Hong Kong or the Philippines during your tour here if you so desire. As transportation is more readily available to Japan, most personnel choose to go there.
We hope you will enjoy your tour here on Chichi Jima. Most single
men who have been stationed here have found their tour of duty on Chichi
Jima most interesting and rewarding, plus presenting an outstanding opportunity
to save money.
A SPECIAL NOTE FOR ALL YOU MARRIED PERSONNEL
The items of furnishing listed on the following page are all furnished
by the Navy for your use in government quarters. Due to the isolation
and limited size of this facility, the shipping of large shipments of household
goods is not desirable. Threrfore you are required to bring only
items of a personal nature with you, such as clothing, toys, a few nic-nacs
and other items which are not listed on the following page. You will
be required to unpack and repack your own household goods, keep this in
mind. Bring wash and wear clothing, several pairs of shoes and other
items which are difficult to procure. Through the use of Sears Roebuck
Catalogs you will be able to order nearly everything you need by mail,
also hard to get items may be special ordered through the Facility's small
Navy Exchange.
LIST OF ITEMS TO BE MAINTAINED IN EACH NAVY HOUSE
KITCHEN
DINING & LIVING ROOM
Range
Sectional Sofa (3 pr cushions w/covers)
Deep Freeze
2 Matching Chairs (cushions w/covers)
Refrigerator
2 End Tables
Coffee Pot (Elec)
1 Coffee Table
Toaster (Elec)
4 Table Lamps
Waffle Iron
2 Floor Lamps
Hand Mixer (Elec)
1 Ottoman
Saucepan (Elec)
1 Bookcase
Can Opener (Wall type)
1 Table w/4 chairs
Utensils Rack w/Utensils
2 Smoking Stands
Cutting Board
4 Seasons Wall Plaques
Cutlery Set
1 Window Fan
Measuring Spoons & Cups
1 Tablecloth w/napkin set
Rolling Pin
1 8-Day Wall Clock
Flour Sifter
1 Mirror
Water Pitcher
Skillet (9" & 13")
BATHROOM
Cake Pans
Bath Mat Set
Sauce Pans (1 1/2, 2 1/2, 3 1/2 qts)
Towels, Hand 6
Casserole Dish (3 1/2 qt)
Towels, Bath 12
Cookie Sheets
Wash Cloths 12
Pie Pans
Clothes Hamper
Roasting Pan
Shower Curtain Set
4 Piece Cannister Set
Dishpan
MISC.
Grater
Ironing Board w/cover
Food Grinder
Iron (Elec)
Dish Rack
Dust Mop
S&P Shakers
Swab
Drinking Glasses (12)
Barbeque Grill
Dishes, Service for 12
Sewing Machine (elec)
Silverware w/chest, Service for 8
Ice Cream Mixer
Dish Towels (6)
Laundry Basket
Kitchen Stool
Table Fans (3)
Automatic Washing Machine
Foxtail & Dustpan
Trash Can (2)
BEDROOMS
Curtain Rods and Curtains (All Windows)
1 Double Bed
Ash Trays
2 Single Beds
High Chairs, Baby Crib, etc.
Sheets (Large 12)
Lawn Chairs 1-2
Sheets (Small 8)
Interference Filter for Radios
Pillow Cases (12)
Electric Floor Buffer (1 for every 3 homes)
Bed Spreads (Large & Small) 2 ea
Chest of Drawers 2
Dressing Table w/mirror
Clock, Baby Ben Alarm
Throw Rugs 2-3
Blankets 4
Night Stands 2