Modifications are what you do to something to make it work better.
Homemade gizmos are, well, I don't know. Go to Johnny's homemade gizmo
page and find out. Anyway, um, here are my mods:



                               Mods

Here is my sharpshooter II mod:

      Allright. Some people take their sharpshooters apart, some don't.
I did, but I didn't do the full job. The full job is, apparently,
to buy another SS2, scrap the parts, and replace the top barrel with a 
shorter bottom barrel. This, to me, sounds like a complete waste of time and
money. I am thinking of sawing off the first 1/8 inch of the top barrel,
but haven't got around to it yet. What I did do, is put about 20 rubber
bands on it stretching from the cocking handle to the space between the
barrels. This increased the range from twenty feet to about forty. I
also opened it up, and taped the hole in the top barrel. While it was
opened, I took both orange pieces. The ammo holder and back site I
took off, and threw in the trash, and the front fin I sawed off with
my knife. Apparently, some people stretch the spring. I didn't, because
my dad said that it would greatly decrease the life of the spring.
Another thing some people do is drill the hole in the back of the
barrel to the size of the hole in the dart. This gets the airflow going
better. I did this also. Yet ANOTHER thing people do is to hot glue 
or cement the whole air compression chamber together for airtightness.
I think it depends how airtight your gun is off the shelf. However, it's
gotta help somewhat. This is The Complete Sharpshooter II mod. With it
your range should be from 45 to 60 feet. Happy hunting.

                          Homemade Gizmos

      This is one sent to me by Maxell, whoever the hell he is, and it 
shoots riprockets, arrows, Larami darts, and regular darts.

      "all you need is a broken (or new if you
don't want) chainblazer,
LOTS of duct tape, 2 1/4 foot 3/4"(inside dia.) steel pipe (MUST be
galvanized), and a cardboard
tube slightly(1/16 to 1/32 of an inch) smaller than a dart, a one inch
wide rubber band (3 foot
relaxed), one film can, an aluminim arrow (30"), and 1 small washer.
PISTON:First, pull apart the old chainblazer. Throw away everything but
the air seal (suction cup
looking thing) on the piston. Next take the arrow and strip the vanes
(or feathers) with a sharp knife.
NOTE: This arrow must be of a kind with removable tips. Now un-screw the
tip and place the
washer onto the threads of the tip. Replace. Now slide the seal from the
chainblazer onto the front of
the tip. Glue it on. NOTE: the glue will not hold very well. This won't
matter. This is your piston.
AIR CHAMBER: Take the pipe and duct tape it to the film canaster with
top off. Make sure
that the pipe is all the way in the canester. This is your air chamber.
BARREL: Take the air chamber and drill a hole in the center of the
closed end (plastic) the same
size as the outside of the cardboard tube.  Next, stick the barrel in
the hole you just drilled about
1/4" to 1/2" in. Duct tape this in place. MAKE SURE that the barrel is
strait aligned with the air
chamber. This is your barrel.
POWER SOURCE: Cut the band in two. Take the ruber band and securly
attach it to the air
chamber with duct tape. Make sure the band (relaxed) extends just past
the air chamber. Now you
are done with the power source.
FINAL ASSEMBALY: Insert the piston into the air chamber and put the band
over the back
of the arow. That's your gun. Now fire like a bow and arrow gun. A
diagram will be poosted soon." On his page, I presume. That's all. the
end. 




Use your back button, you moron.