ROBOT WARS;

HINTS AND TIPS

by Mat Irvine

Do Not Start to Build before being given permission by

TV21/Mentorn

These notes are designed to help all participants in Robot Wars; and

should be read in conjunction with the Official Rules and Guidelines,

our Useful Suppliers List and other literature relating to the programme

format.

Although Robot Wars; originated in America, the first televised

series was broadcast here in the UK. The sport is constantly evolving

and the TV version has now gathered its own momentum with many

more teams designing and building robots on this side of the Atlantic

than in America. Consequently there has been some reappraisal of

Robot Wars; - particularly in the context of televised competitions.

However the rules and guidelines governing Robot Wars; in Europe

are, wherever possible, consistent with those in America. Clearly it is

important that robots are designed and constructed within

internationally recognised regulations, given that future competitions,

programmes and events may involve robots from all over the world.

Much of what follows is purely advice - this is a subject where

individuality, initiative and invention are extremely important and the

organisers of Robot Wars; do not want to stifle creativity. However

some areas, particularly those to do with safety (which are governed

by the HSE - Health and Safety Executive) as well as regulations

relevant to recording television programmes, have to be considered

and adhered to when it comes to the design, construction and operation

of robots.

Robot Wars; is an ideal event for teamwork. Individual entrants are

in no way precluded, but the organisers wish to encourage teams -

families, friends, schools, colleges, workplaces - where individuals

can combine their particular creativity with others. Your team may

include someone who excels at design, someone else who is a

mechanical genius, another who specialises in electronics - and don't

forget a good driver is essential for success in Robot Wars;.

Please note that there are no restrictions as to how many people can be

involved with the design and construction of your robot. However

because of production practicalities only three crew - a driver and two

others - will be allowed to actually run their robot during the recording

of the television series and consequently occupy the Pit Area. Other

members of the team are of course certainly welcome to attend and

will be give prime spots in the audience - so bring your own

cheerleaders!

FIRST THING'S FIRST

Designing and building a robot is no easy task. First of all, please put

careful thought into exactly what type of robot you want to create. You

will have to consider the weight of your robot, the type of drive

mechanism, bodywork and how your robot will perform in the

eliminating rounds before attacking and defending itself in the final

arena. This last consideration is the most important. You should also

remember that the televised version of Robot Wars; involves various

games and challenges as well as outright combat. With this in mind,

you may also have to compromise the design of your robot. For

example, you may choose to sacrifice ground clearance so that you can

climb a ramp or you may opt for speed and maneuverability over

strength and power.

Ultimately Robot Wars; is all about spectacle and showmanship.

Robots that have been carefully thought through will hopefully come

out well in combat, as well as catching the eye of the judges - when it

comes to awards for design, originality and engineering - and will

most certainly win the audience over!

Some robots avoid weapons preferring to use their bulk along with a

sophisticated drive to push - or batter - opponents into submission.

Robots designed using this approach - such as the reigning British

Champion Roadblock and the former American Heavyweight

Champion La Machine - are often referred to as 'wedges' because of

their shape. Despite one or two exceptions however, such robots are

rarely associated with sparks, flying debris and outright destruction -

and most people, in particular the five million people watching at

home, want violence!

With this in mind the organisers of Robot Wars;, whilst not wishing

to ban any specific type of design, would like to discourage passive

'wedge' designs and encourage as much weaponry as possible.

Rotating weapons, in the form of circular cutting discs and chain saws

are always popular, the hammer approach is a route taken by many and

lifting devices are also gaining ground. Biohazard defeated La

Machine during the American Robot Wars; 1996 Finals with a policy

of lift and tip', but was itself almost beaten by Vlad the Impaler who

had a similar lifting device fitted!

Moving features of any sort will make your robot stand out, even if the

device itself is not for any practical function. Sacrificial additions to

your design - which will not effect your robot's performance if they are

destroyed in battle - may confuse your opponent. You can use lighting,

lasers and basic stage pyrotechnics for effect, providing such features

do not contravene the 'Rule and Guidelines' governing Robot Wars;.

And if the overall design of your robot follows a theme - and is given a

suitable name and personality to match - all the better.

Although most robots are designed to operate at ground level using

wheels or tracks, there are two other options worth considering.

I) Flying robots are allowed. Aerofoil designs (i.e. helicopters) have

to be banned for safety reasons, but this leaves robots designed around

the principle of a hovercraft or even floating robots which utilise

balloons. There has been at least one 'balloon' robot in a previous

American Robot Wars; event and although they're not the most

practical of designs - control is very difficult - they're certainly going

to get noticed!

2) Walking robots - or 'walkers' - are feasible and are allowed in

Robot Wars;. If entered they can take advantage of an increased

weight allowance - up to 300 lbs. Admittedly such designs aren't

necessarily suited to combat, but they are extremely impressive

visually and often conform to the public's expectations of what a robot

should look like. With this in mind, and given that the organisers wish

to encourage as much ingenuity and invention as possible, it is hoped

that some teams rise to the challenge of creating a walker.

IMPORTANT: Nothing in the follow information should be taken as

definitive and no responsibility can be accepted by the ROBOT

Wars; Organisers for experimentation by teams or individuals.

WEIGHT CLASSIFICATIONS

As detailed in the 'Rules and Guidelines', there are four classes of

robot determined by weight. It is worth emphasising that in the majority

of cases, the TV programme will feature only Heavyweight robots.

Furthermore, there is also the possibility of a Super Heavyweight

division in the future and such robots may also be featured in the TV

series. Details of other weight classes are included here for your

interest given that future events may well include a wider range of

robots.

Featherweight: up to 25 lbs (metric equivalent up to 11.4 kg)

Lightweight: Over 25 lbs up to 50 lbs (over 11.4 kg - 22.7 kg)

Middleweight: Over 50 lbs - 100 lbs (over 22.7 kg - 45.4 kg)

Heavyweight: Over 100 lbs - maximum 175 lbs (over 45.4 kg - 79.4

kg)

There are no restrictions on tale size of your robot, though the

recommendation is that it does not exceed length and width of 50" x

30" (127cm x 76cm). There is no maximum recommendation for height

though practicalities will dictate that stability may be compromised if

your robot it too tall. A maximum voltage for electric motors of 30

volts DC (50 volts AC) is also specified in the 'Rules and Guidelines'

along with many other details which you should read before starting

construction.

Although the weight classes detailed above tend to dictate the

complexity of your robot and possibly the experience of the roboteer,

this need not be as cut and dried as may first appear.

Featherweight

This classification is ideal for those just starting the sport, with

perhaps a limited knowledge of mechanics and construction. Many

such robots are based around commercially available radio controlled

model car chassis as manufactured by Tamiya, Koyosho and others.

These are easily available, relatively cheap and are manufactured in a

wide range of specifications - two-wheel drive, four-wheel drive,

four-wheel steering, small tyres, large tyres and a wide range of

motors. Some chassis even use internal combustion engines (glow or

diesel) for added power. However be aware that the radio control

frequencies used by some of the cheapest and simplest car kits are

27Mhz AM. This frequency band is no longer allowed because of its

susceptibility to interference. However it is often possible to change

these AM frequencies to 27 Mhz FM or - preferably - 40Mhz.

The chassis can be used 'as is' with the advantage that the positions for

batteries and receiver are already built in. Alternatively the drive can

be fitted to a chassis of your own design and manufacture. This can

allow for extra batteries if necessary, although check that the chassis

you choose will carry the extra weight at the sort of speed you expect.

It is not advisable to use the existing bodywork from these kits as they

are not really suitable for the battering they are likely to receive - and

nor will they impress judges and the crowd in terms of ingenuity and

design. Such commercially available chassis often work well with a

smooth 'tortoise-shell' body protecting them...or how about coming up

with a totally individual design of your own?

It is also perfectly possible to build a robot from scratch which still

weighs in as a Featherweight. For example WYSIWYG - the only

all-British entry in the 1996 US Robot Wars; Robot Wars; Final -

and subsequently an entry in the British TV show - was built as a

classic 'wedge' design constructed from MDF (Medium Density

Fibreboard - ie. wood) with radio control car drive and multiple

Ni-Cad batteries for power - all under 25 lbs (11.4 kg)!

Lightweight

Lightweights build on Featherweight technology. However the extra

weight allowance allows for more of a mix of commercial RC

components with more recognisable Robot Wars; features. The

weight limit could mean an all-metal body, larger motors, bigger

batteries and some weaponry. However you should find that

components - such as wheels designed for RC cars - will work

perfectly well even in this heavier weight category. Time for

experimentation.. Lightweights need not be restricted in their weaponry

- some have been fitted with small IC-powered chain saws all within

the weight limit.

If you are experienced with building model RC cars, or fancy tackling

something a little more substantial than a Featherweight, this could be

the class for you.

Middleweight

Most commercially available RC components are not really suitable

for this category, as the extra weight means extra strain on components.

However it could be worth exploring some drive components that are

intended for IC RC race cars as they could be strong enough. However

remember the maxim - "If in doubt double the strength... then it may be

strong enough just"'

In the past, the Middleweight category has been ideal for builders to

show off their engineering skills. The increased weight allows for the

inclusion of sophisticated ideas, a mix of weapons, good turn of speed

and an interesting design. If you are half-way competent with the heavy

end of modeling or are a competent engineer, the Middleweight

category could be a good starting point for your entry into Robot

Wars;...

Heavyweight

...however, most of the televised action will feature Heavyweight

robots. This weight category is for the really dedicated enthusiast and

will really put your skills in engineering, electronics, design and

driving to the test. Heavyweights by their very nature are going to test

man and machine completely - 175 Ibs of pure weight hitting an

opponent is going to produce a fair old thump!

However if you want to be at the cutting edge of Robot Wars; and

you're comfortable working with large motors, solid chassis and

sophisticated weaponry, then the Heavyweight category could be for

you.

Although the range of robots, their design, construction and on-board

equipment is going to vary enormously, all can be split into two basic

sections and it's worth giving thought to each of these separately.

PART ONE - THE CHASSIS

The chassis of your robot includes the drive, power supply, steering

and radio control equipment, and will form the core of your robot. It is

also likely to be the main weight of the robot and so will give the

whole structure stability. Stability is very important as many robots are

designed to flip their opponents over, or at least lift them off the

ground. Design of the chassis will also determine the speed and

maneuverability of your robot. Centre-mounted drives, each driven by

an individual motor, tend to be more maneuverable (they have the

ability to turn on a sixpence, to coin a phrase!) Remember to consider

the more traditional chassis layouts as well, e.g.. a car or go-kart

which have wheels at each comer - this will give your robot more

stability therefore making it harder to flip over.

The Drive

Electric Motors: Electric motors are very popular with builders as

they are easy to obtain and come in various sizes and degrees of

power. They can be controlled easily via an electronic RC speed

controller and require a minimal amount of maintenance. Most of these

will be DC (Direct Current) motors as they are powered straight from

a battery. An AC (Alternating Current) motor can be used, but has the

added hassle of generating the AC in the first place - this can be done

in one of two ways:

a) Using an inverter from a battery (though the power generated in not

that great), or

b) Generating AC from an alternator driven from another source (e.g..

a car alternator)

However powering a DC motor from a battery to drive an alternator to

generate AC current to drive an AC motor - is not the quickest and

most effective method to use. Driving the alternator from a small IC

engine is viable, however this system is really for the dedicated and its

overall advantages have yet to be proven!

NOTE: There is an upper voltage limit of 30 volts DC (and should

you go the AC route, it is 50 volts). However practicalities dictate that

you will probably use 6, 12 or 24 volts. It is possible to 'over-run' a

motor - running a 6 volt motor on 12 volts for example, which will

give extra power, but will shorten the life of the motor. Alternatively,

batteries can be arranged so that, for example, a 12 volt motor

normally runs on 12 volts, but for that extra boost of power the circuits

are switched (via RC) to give 24 volts for a short period. A simple

example is to have two 12 volts/6 amp batteries normally wired in

parallel, which will give 12 volts at 12 amps. By switching to a series

connection, this provides 24 volts at 6 amps. La Machine is famous for

its 'turbo boost' using a similar method.

Batteries: These are likely to be the biggest single outlay in cost.

Really there are only two practical types of batteries that are easily an

available, though both types can be expensive.

Ni-Cads (Nickel-Cadmium) - these are rechargeable batteries and can

be used as replacements for non rechargeable AA, C. D type batteries.

Each Ni-Cad 'cell' is standardised at 1.2 volts, but can be connected in

series for higher Voltages. Usually they come ready packed in specific

voltages. The advantage of Ni-Cads is that they can be fast charged,

however, they are not really suitable for powering large motors

Sealed Lead Acid 'Gel' - these are similar to car batteries in their

construction, but the electrolyte is a gel rather than a liquid. They are

also totally sealed and can be used upside-down if necessary. The

advantage of these batteries is that they can be charged on 'stand by' for

a long period of time and can also stand a large current drain.

However they cannot be fast charged and the largest ones can take over

a day (24 hours) to charge up from flat, therefore spares are essential

during recording. There are 'fast charging' (or 'faster' charging)

methods coming onto the market, though their availability and cost have

yet to be assessed.

Please note the following...

a) Standard car-type liquid electrolyte batteries are not allowed - even

the supposed 'sealed for life' batteries are not fully sealed and if

damaged will leak liquid sulphuric acid!

b) Both of the above types of battery have a low voltage, so there is no

danger of electrocution. However, they can contain a considerable

amount of power and if short circuited they can heat up rapidly and

either cause a fire or explode. Consequently all circuits must be

adequately protected by thermal circuit breakers and all connections,

whether from battery to equipment or between cells of a battery, must

be properly insulated.

c) Whichever battery source you decide upon, you will probably need

a minimum of three sets.

Internal Combustion (IC) Engines

A number of robots use an IC engine as it is more powerful. These can

be obtained from go-karts, lawnmowers, small motorcycles or even the

larger varieties intended for RC model aircraft, racing cars or boats.

Three types of fuel can be used - petrol, diesel or glow. If you go this

route, four-stroke engines are recommended over two-stroke as they

have more power per cc, create slightly less noise and are cleaner

given that don't mix oil with the fuel. NB. Glow fueled engines are

two-stroke by default.

NOTE: The 'Rules and Guidelines' do not allow more than 8 fl.oz.

(227 millilitres) of fuel or 6 minutes running time (whichever is the

lesser) for IC engines - so very large cc engines are out. Please also

note that IC engines take longer to start and generally require more

maintenance than electric motors.

Hydraulic Motors

Hydraulic motors produce a lot of power, almost instantaneously

which can also be used for steering and operating weaponry. However

the hydraulic pump has to be powered. Many existing robots with

hydraulics use IC engines to power their pumps. An alternative could

be to use an electric motor. However this route is really only for the

specialists as correct British Safety S fittings have to be used for pipes

and connectors as fluid under pressure is involved, plus there is an

upper pressure limit. (See Rules and Guidelines)

Multi-Source Power

It is perfectly acceptable to use a mix of power sources, e.g..

hydraulics powered by an IC engine and many robots use electric

motors for the drive and IC for weaponry.

TRANSMISSIONS

Steering - gearboxes - drive-belts - suspension - wheels...

Steering

Steering can either be a mechanism that controls front, back or even

both sets of wheels as with a car, or uses independent drives on each

side as with a tank.

'Car-type' steering, particularly on Middle and Heavyweight robots,

will be subjected to a great deal of strain. so it's worth examining the

mechanisms and materials used very closely. Your robot will be

changing direction constantly so the amount of wear and tear on

steering components will be considerable. Radio controlled steering

actuators will also need some form of 'saver' as impact along the

steering mechanism could be transmitted directly to the actuator gears

and wreck the actuator itself.

'Tank-type' steering can work either with actual tracks or, more

usually, with a central wheel each side and free-rotating castors

providing stability, front and back. Each wheel or track has its own

drive which could take two forms. Either a single motor is used and the

drive to each side is through individual transmissions. To turn the

robot

one wheel is either braked or disengaged like a tank. A more usual,

and in many ways more effective route, is to have each wheel (or

track) driven by its own individually controlled motor. Clearly with

both motors operating forward - the robot goes forward, both operating

back - the robot goes back. And with one forward, one back, the robot

turns very fast - and if you keep going, spins on the spot.

Gear-boxes / Drive Belts

Whatever your power source this will have to be transmitted to the

driving wheels. It may be a direct drive - some electric motors are

powerful enough to do this, and hydraulic motors are 'direct' by

default. Most however will go through some form of transmission. A

simple gear reduction may be sufficient, or via steel-reinforced belts

and suitable pulleys. It is always advisable to go for the largest and

strongest gears or belts feasible as these are invariably weak points in

any drive-chain. Especially weak points are where gears or pulley

wheels fix to shafts. Relying on a push fit or a just grub screw is rarely

sufficient. The shaft needs to be threaded, have a built-in flat or a hole

for a split pin.

Actual selection gearboxes are really not recommended as you will

probably never have time to change gear - and there's more to go

wrong. However many IC powered set-ups, such as lawnmowers, have

automatic clutches and/or variable gearboxes as part of the mechanism,

so it would seem logical to try and adapt these. An IC motor is anyway

going to have to have some form of clutch as otherwise your robot will

not be able to stay stationary!

Suspension

It could be worth looking at some form of suspension - however crude

- as the amount of bashing your robot is likely to give - or receive -

will put a great strain on the mechanisms. Suspension can also help

ensure the power stays to the ground and might help prevent wheelspin.

Wheels

These are your sole point of contact with the floor (assuming you have

not been tipped over!) so think about this aspect of the drive carefully.

There are really only two options - wheels and tracks.

Tracks can be used reasonably successfully, but are likely to be slower

and possibly prone to damage and maintenance.

Wheels can be solid, though experience over the years has shown that

some form of tyre is preferable, giving more grip and partial

suspension to soak up bumps. However tyres, especially large

pneumatic ones, could be vulnerable to damage - especially if your

opponent has steel spikes or a circular saw! Consequently drive

wheels are usually hidden under the main body, though some robots

have made a feature of their exposed wheels and, to a certain extent,

use them as 'weaponry', e.g.. Red Scorpion and The Master. Solid

rubber tyres are obviously less prone to damage, though pneumatic

tyres could be filled with a foam 'emergency repair kit' which may

render the tyre impossible to repair at a later stage although this is

probably not a major consideration with a robot. Also pay attention to

the way in which tyres are attached to the wheels as high torque can

cause the wheel to spin inside the tyre.

Some robots use a form of braking on the wheels, which allows them

more purchase when engaging an opponent. This may also prevent an

opponent pushing you out of the arena. However they are probably only

really worth considering for the heavier robots and only then if you

have someone in the team competent to deal with the mechanisms

involved.

RADIO CONTROL

The minimum number of channels required is going to be two - drive

and steering. However if you have any working features extra channels

are required, and sets with up to four channels are reasonably cheap.

The drive and steering channels really need to be of the proportional

type, which allows for gradual change in speed or steering position

and most sets, even the cheapest, will supply at least who basic

proportional channels. Very old sets that are just 'off or 'on' are usable

at a pinch, but not recommended and anyway they will most likely fall

foul of the frequency regulations - see below.

Frequencies

In the UK the Home Office allocates four frequency bands for amateur

radio control. These are: 27Mhz; 35Mhz; 40Mhz and 459Mhz. Of these

35Mhz is restricted to flying models only, so will not be allowed.

unless you build a flying robot - but even here check with the

organisers first. Currently it has been decided to keep the House

Robots separate on 459Mhz, leaving 27Mhz and 40Mhz. However,

experience has shown that 27Mhz does have interference problems -

CB radio also uses this band - and so has been prohibited. 27Mhz may

be allowed for Lightweight and Featherweight robots, but check with

the organisers first. In the event that you are given permission to use

27Mhz, you must use an FM set - AM sets are prone to far too much

interference.

NOTE: Whichever frequency you end up using, when participating in

Robot Wars; you will have to surrender your transmitter to

'Transmitter Control'. No exceptions! Safety is paramount. And clearly

if two robots - with or without flailing weapons - are run on the same

frequency in close proximity, there could be a serious accident.

Please also note that as only a certain number of radio control

frequencies are available, the Robot Wars; organisers reserve the

right to allocate particular frequencies within your band for the actual

televised contest. Because physical packaging can vary between

manufactures, plus other oddities such as dual conversion receivers, it

is impractical for 'Transmitter Control' to have duplicates for

everyone. Therefore you will be required to have at least two sets of

crystals for each radio set-up you will be using, and ideally more than

two sets.

Robots which require two frequencies for operation - e.g.. one

transmitter for drive, one for weapons - are allowed, although please

let the organisers know if it is your intention to use multiple

transmitters.

Receivers

These should be positioned as far away as practical from electric

motors or the spark plugs of IC engines. It will almost certainly be

necessary to fit suppression to motors and/or ignition systems, and it

may also be necessary to case the receiver.

Never cut the aerial supplied with receivers - its designed to be the

length it is. However it does not necessarily have to be stretched out

like a washing line - it will still work wound up and taped up inside

the body. But remember that all-metal bodied robots could act as a

Faraday Cage and stop signals getting in, full experimentation is vital

here. An external aerial maybe the only option, but remember it could

be vulnerable and its fair game for an opponent to try and cut it off.

Consequently position it in the most out of the-way spot and maybe add

some form of protection (e.g.. clear polythene tubing).

Speed Control

Electric motors will work most efficiently using electronic speed

controllers as against switched 'stepped' controllers (e.g.. slow,

medium, fast) - especially for the heavier classes. These controllers

invariably take the greatest brunt of the current flowing and experience

has shown that this component is usually the first to fail.

Although existing readily available speed controllers may list

wonderful 'peak' ratings of several hundred amps, these are invariably

only applicable if the electronics are running at low temperatures

(which they rarely are). When the motors stall - as they do when you

bash into an opponent - the current rises dramatically. Furthermore,

when motors reverse as suddenly as they can in Robot Wars;,

currents can peak (or 'spike') at over 1,000 amps! This may be only for

1/20th second, but it's enough to blow the components.

Much exploration and experimentation has been done on speed

controllers before, during and since the first Robot Wars; TV series.

Experience has shown that of existing off-the-shelf components,

wheel-chair technology has proved itself to be strong enough to

survive combat situations - usually! However, some adaptation might

be necessary before it is suitable for Robot Wars;. There are

alternatives coming on line and the most recent findings, advice and

suppliers can be found in the 'Useful Suppliers List'.

Fail Safe

It is very likely that an electronic fail safe will be required on all

circuits that operate weaponry - rotating or otherwise. These fail safes

prevent any operation of a radio control switch or servo - and hence

the operation of the weapon - should the signal from the transmitter

either fail or somehow get degraded. It may also be a requirement that

a similar system will be required on the drive of a robot - particularly

for the heavier classes.

NOTE: it is advisable to have as many spare parts as practical -

electrical and mechanical - for your robot. Remember the maxim - "If it

can fail it will, and even if it can't possibly fail - it still will... "

PART TWO - THE BODY

If the chassis is taking the main brunt of the mechanical donkey-work, it

is the bodywork that shows off your flare for design and ingenuity -

before taking the main brunt of your opponents wrath!

Attachment

This is basic common sense, but ensure the bodywork is firmly

attached to the chassis! But also that you have adequate - and quick -

access to all internal components. You don't want a major dismantling

job just to change the batteries and remember the receiver must be

easily accessible if the crystals need to be changed.

Materials

Most common materials for the body are metal, wood or some plastic

composite, all of which will be dictated by your class, design and

method of attack/defence. Although metal may logically seem like the

best idea, and has many advantages, wood has many things going for it

- it can be more resilient to 'bashes' and could in some cases jam an

opponents saw if they try to cut through. Fibreglass or similar plastic

composites can be formed into interesting shapes, but even the toughest

reinforced plastic may not necessarily stand up to a circular saw.

However this could hinge on whether the saw can get a grip anywhere,

so a sloping surface, even of relatively lightweight materials, could see

off even the most determined saw blade. But please note, none of this

is gospel - each design will work in its own way.

Weaponry

Robot Wars; is ultimately all about combat. Robots with ingenious

weaponry will be more likely to win their bouts as well as impressing

the judges, gaining crowd approval and entertaining 5 million viewers

at home! Some types of weapons have to be banned - flames, liquids,

high voltage disrupters and nontethered projectiles for example (see

'Rules and Guidelines' for more details). However this still leaves a

lot of room for ingenuity. Weapons can rotate - circular saws, cutting

discs, strimmers and the ever popular chain saw. Weapons can hit and

bash - hammers, mallets, blades and flails. Weapons can ram and stab

- with spikes and . Devices can be made to operate pincers to grab and

immobilise opponents, or a lifting device can slide under the

opposition and either tip them over or just lift their wheels off the

ground. Better still, why not come up with a brand new method of

attack!

Interchangeable Parts

Interchangeable body components and weapons are allowed, although -

needless to say - not during an actual bout! Any changes to a robot must

be completed within a set period of time, (see 'Rules and Guidelines').

Please note that this rule cannot be abused - in other words you can't

enter two different robots. The basic chassis and bodywork must

remain as a running entity. However, you can choose to use different

weapons or features depending on the nature of a game or challenge.

For example, if your robot is selected to play Robotic Soccer, you

could add some form of scoop to the bodywork!

Experimentation

Robot Wars; is all about ingenuity, combining traditional skills and

crafts with the latest in technology. If you have some device that you'd

like to feature on your robot don't hesitate. If you want to carry an

onboard camera (as with Formula I) this might be accommodated. If

you wish to use your own camera and transmitter, contact the

organisers first as there are some restrictions on TV frequencies and

licensing. Some robots may be fitted with cameras supplied by the

organisers. If you'd like to be considered for this. please contact the

organisers for the dimensions of the camera unit and mounting.

Finish

Don't be afraid to go to town with the overall 'look' of your robot.

Designs that catch everyone's eye audience, judges or viewers - will

be far more entertaining than a box on wheels. Scenes in the pits are

just as much a part of Robot Wars; as action in the arena. Pre-match

interviews, robot profiles and televised action from the pits will

probably concentrate on the best looking robots - "This is an

interesting design, just why have you painted it pink with purple spots

and used twenty eight wheels. . . ? "

THE PROGRAMME AND THE PITS!

During the recording of Robot Wars; competitors will be based in

the Pits Area next to the arena. Here the organisers will supply tables,

lighting, power (mains at 240 Volts AC) and a testing area, but the rest

is your responsibility. Chargers, spares, tools will all have to be

brought with you. The majority of maintenance and repairs will have to

be achieved in your allocated Pits Area. However some aspects

especially welding, grinding, sanding, spray painting etc. - will have to

be done in a specific areas, safely away from people milling around.

So if your robot is at the heavier end of the categories you may

consider some trolley could be useful for transport. Although you will

be expected to bring everything you require with you it is

acknowledged that things do go wrong, things get forgotten, things get

broken. Consequently a certain amount of help will be available during

studio days. But do not relay on this - it is purely an emergency

measure!

SOURCING MATERIALS

Part of the whole idea of Robot Wars; is to test the ingenuity and

invention of the contestants. Consequently there is little point in saying

"You must use Motor A, with Battery B" - you should choose your own

sources and root out some that no-one else has thought of. Much may

already be available to you. Time to search out all that junk you

dumped in the attic, garage, shed and anywhere else just in case you

had a need for it - now you might just! Experience with the first Robot

Wars; TV series showed that competitors were extremely ingenious

when it came to sourcing materials. However for some up-to-date

pointers see the separate Useful Suppliers List'.

AND FINALLY..,

Whichever weight classification you have chosen, and whatever the

design of your robot, one factor is very important - make sure you can

drive the beast. Although radio control may seem easy, you can't have

too much practice. Even if your robot itself is not completed, get

whoever is going to be doing the driving to practice with a commercial

radio controlled car beforehand. Techniques - including the somewhat

obvious one that if you driving towards yourself, everything is

reversed - need to become automatic. You don't have a chance to think

"Ah, its coming towards me, that means I push the stick to the right,

Instead of the left... " if you have to, you will have already crashed!

Always remember that Robot Wars; is a fun sport. We intend to

enjoy ourselves and not take things too seriously - and we hope you

will too. Although making television programmes does have its own

idiosyncrasies, and you may frequently wonder what on earth is going

on, remember you are an important cog in the whole wheel and we

would have no show without your participation, support and

co-operation. Thank you!