How to make your own paint grenades

I have spent a long, long time researching paint grenades. I have spent an equally long time surveying peoples experiences of using paint grenades. Paint grenades fall into two basic categories: explosive, and "splatter". Explosive grenades use a small charge, usually no larger than a firecracker, to break open a paper shell and spew out the paint contents. They are usually lit with a fuse or use a pull-pin.



The picture above is an example of one of these (model is the M-69). The paint tends to fly out in sloppy chunks, (observe orange splots on tree in above photo) if it flies out at all, due to the fact a distressing number of grenades tend to be duds. The grenades that I know of that fall into this category are: the M-69 made by Strange Ordnance; a grenade made by Enola Gay (brand name unknown); and a grenade made by Pro-Line (brand name unknown). Of these, the only one used extensively is the M-69, which is odd seeing as how it has the greatest overall failure rate. Now let me interject the final word here about explosive grenades: I DON'T LIKE THEM. The reason they set me on edge so much is twofold. One, I don't care how small the charge is in the grenade, it is still an explosive, and as such threatens everyones safety, including your mask and goggle system. Two, paintball still labors under a negative public image. I'm not helping matters admittedly by encouraging a "scale-model wargame" atmosphere with my ideas and plans, however my point is; if the public at large hears about us tossing EXPLOSIVE materials at each other, it's all over, all of it. Strange Ordnance are you paying attention? I admit these grenades are fun, the go boom, hell I want to play with one. But they don't, repeat don't engender a safe atmosphere. Okay, that's off my chest. Now on to the good stuff!! Okay, where was I, the second category of grenade is the "splatter" kind. Grenades which fall into this category are: the SquadBuster by Tippmann (which is pictured in the photo at the top of this page);

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the Little Betty (manufacturer unknown but is pictured above); the grenade which you will be making here; and water balloons. These type of grenades rely on paint under pressure to hurl their contents onto targets. So let's begin shall we?

Materials needed: A section of 1/8" rubber tubing about a foot long. (available at hose supply stores, medical supply stores, or chemistry supply stores.) Alternately, you could use a used SquadBuster.

A plastic clip tie
A large syringe ( if you don't have medical friends, you can find syringe like "emergency pumps for basketballs" in your local sporting goods store)
Some paint (either boiled down paintballs or childrens washable non-toxic paint
A pair of hemostats
Some ball bearings of slightly larger diameter than the tubing (you can find these in your hardware store)
Some cotter pins
Some alcohol
A rubber band (optional)
A target

1) Take the tubing, and cinch it down tight in the middle. If you want to make smaller; Little Betty type grenades, use only a six inch length and tie off one end of the tubing. If you're using an old SquadBuster, this is already done for you.
2) Fill the syringe with the paint mixture and inject it into one side of the tubing. Leave about 2 to 2.5 inches at the top empty.
3) Before you remove the syringe, crimp off the tubing below it with the hemostats. The filled section of tubing should look like a hotdog.
4) Lubricate one of the ball bearings with the alcohol and insert it into the tubing above the hemostats. If you still have the cap from the SquadBuster, just fold the tubing tip over and place the cap on.
5) Insert one of the cotter pins above the ball bearing, through the tubing. Or place the old SquadBuster pin through the hole in the cap. Leave the hemostat on until the alcohol dries. If you are making a Little Betty type grenade, you are now done.
6) Take the other empty side and repeat the process, except use the same cotter pin to hold both bearings in.
7) If you want the grenade to have maximum area coverage with a smaller paint coverage, simply leave as is. However, if you want maximum paint coverage put a weak rubber band around the grenade. The theory being this: When you pull the cotter pin out and throw the grenade, the non-banded kind will fall apart, pointing in two different directions. The banded kind will however, spray a greater amount of paint at a specific area. However, both types will spray in a radius because the release of pressure will make the hose tip wag around.
I have tested one of these, they do work, and expect about a 5 to 6 foot spray radius. Remember VERY IMPORTANT: get a good arc on these or try to throw it at something hard (like a bunker right behind your target) because you need to get enough pressure when it hits to push out the bearing (or knock off the cap). Conversely, after you have pulled the pin, DON'T squeeze the grenade or you will get very, very messy! Also, after you pull the pin, if you notice a small amount of leaking paint, throw it quickly or it will blow soon! And this should be the final result:




So there you go folks, hope you enjoy it. If you try this out, email me an let me know your results or send me some pictures. I am also interested in anyone using these as cannon or mortar ammo! Please let me know if you try this! Thank you all and happy painting!



All the above photos with the exception of the pics of the M-69 and the Little Bettys, are courtesy of The Cimmerians make sure to drop by and check out their page!


I now have my first review of the peformance of these grenades!:

I have made and tested one of your homebrew grenades and I am greatly pleased. Myself and several members of our team are working to arm ourselves with thess lovely little toys. Thank you for posting such useful information.
Sir Davicus of the Gray Knights



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