FRESCOE #1: 1. Base coat wall in white flat latex paint. 2. Apply a water-based paint thinned slightly in drifts over the base with a sponge or bristle brush. Using a damp sponge and a ball of cheesecloth texture and move the paint around the wall. Let dry. Suggestion: deep terracotta color. 3. Apply a second thinned water-base paint in the same manner as above. Suggestion: a medium pink. 4. Apply a coat of thinned oil-based paint/glaze in an ochre (yellow) tone. Wash a light coat onto most of the wall area and texture using a ball of cheesecloth or soft heavy absorbant cloth. This will tone down the previous colors and blend them together nicely. FRESCOE #2: 1. In three separate containers mix each color of latex paint with water in equal proportions. You may have to use more water than this so experiment. Use terracotta, medium pink and yellow. 2. First apply the thinned pink to the wall using a fairly wide brush. Work in small sections brushing on the paint and covering about 3/4 of the surface in that area. There will be darker and lighter areas quite evident. Some won’t have any paint at all. 3. Fill in the background un-covered area with the diluted yellow paint. It should look quite patchy and bold at this point. Leave to dry. 4. Apply the diluted terracotta color over the entire surface with a wide brush starting at the top. Keep the brush quite dry so that only a thin coating covers the surface. As the terracotta dries, the pink and yellow colors will shine softly through, creating a weathered effect. Hint: You may find the paint goes on better if you add abit of glazing liquid or Floetrol. Colors can be changed to suit your taste but keep them related. This technique will resemble old crumbling walls: 1. Brush orange shellac sealer over a primed and base-coated surface. Using almost a dry brush randomly brush on leaving some areas without color. Take out brush strokes as you work by stippling. 2. Using a teak colored tint mixed with acrylic glaze, roll or brush on then rub and dab off with a cloth, rubbing some areas more than others to mottle the surface. Let dry well. 3. Apply a grey or taupe colored glaze over top in the same way and again rag off. Use a very sparing application as most of the glaze will be removed by dabbing with a cloth. Note: These colors can be changed somewhat to suit your taste.
These can resemble leather: Tear brown kraft paper or tissue paper into irregular sized pieces and crumple. Straighten them slightly and apply to the surface of the wall or object. Work in areas about 3 feet square by applying wheat paste or water based wallpaper paste to the surface then laying on the paper. Slightly overlap edges and press down well. I don’t suggest you use white glue thinned with water because of the impossible task of removing once you are tired of it. Once it has dried well you can do several paint treatments to it: 1. Apply a wood colored water-based glaze all over then dab with a cloth to mottle slightly. 2. Dry brush almost any color on for a weathered look. 3. Apply a paint color all over, let dry then shellac to seal the color. Then apply another color of glaze on top and rag it to remove some of the coloring. Suggest two tones of brown for a leather look (med/dark brown and lighter brown - for example). 4. For tissue paper, they are nice finished in a very translucent glaze.
REFERENCE BOOKS: Professional Painted Finishes - by Ina, Allen and Robert Marx Master Strokes and Master Works - by Jennifer Bennell Classic Paints and Faux Finishes - by Annie Sloan and Katie Gwynn The Complete Book of Decorative Paint Techniques - by Annie Sloan and Kate Gwynn Decorative Style - by Kevin McCloud Paint Magic - by Jocasta Innes Paintability - by Jocasta Innes Paint Recipes - by Liz Wagstaff Recipes for Surfaces Vol. II - by Mindy Drucker and Nancy Rosen Encyclopedia of Decorative Paint Techniques - by Simon Cavelle Decorative Magic - by John Sutcliffe Decorative Painting For The Home - by Lee Andre and David Lipe Complete Book of Decorative Techniques - by Linda Gray with Jocasta Innes Color - Natural Pallets for Painted Rooms - by Donald Kaufman & Taffy Dahl (excellent book on color useage) SUPPLIES I HAVE TRIED AND USE REGULARLY: Acrylic (Water-based) Glazing Liquid: 1. Zinsser Blend & Glaze - directions for use on can. 2. Zinsser Blen & Glaze Extender and Thinner - extends working time. 3. Polyvine Acrylic Scumble - transparent glaze you can color with colorants or tube acrylics but not with latex paint. 4. Minwax Glaze Effects. Available in clear, light and dark. Nice because the dark glaze does not change the color of dark paint. 5. Pratt & Lambert Acrylic Glazing liquid. Oil Based Glazing Liquids: 1. Pratt & Lambert Oil Glazing Liquid. 2. Benjamin Moore's Oil Glazing Liquid. Quite thick consistency. This one I usually thin with paint thinner.
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