Are you thinking about buying an APBT puppy or dog? If you have not researched the subject by reading in the library, reviewing pertinent sites on the internet, talking to one or more responsible APBT owners, or by visiting animal shelters/rescue organizations and talking with the staff, we urge you to do so before proceeding. Any dog, be it an APBT or otherwise, is a huge responsibility - much like raising a child. You would be well advised to do a considerable amount of research on dog breeds other than the APBT, to make sure that you might not be better off with a different breed. Think about what you will ask from your dog in the future.
Is your dog intended to be a companion, a show dog, a working dog (competitor in obedience and performance trials), a retriever for hunting, a catch dog (also for hunting), a herder, a watch dog, a guard dog, or a trained attack dog? Are there other breeds that are more specialized or more suitable for your purposes? APBT ownership involves some unique liabilities which you must be prepared to handle. There are a lot of other dogs which are easier to handle and which involve less responsibility and time commitment. Here are some problems you will have to deal with if you decide that an APBT is for you:
Can you provide adequate exercise for your dog? Can you be dominant towards your dog and unyielding towards bad behavior? Note that this does not mean beating him or disciplining him in any physical way. Are you willing to take extra measures to make sure your dog won't escape from your back yard or his dog run? Are you willing to put in the extra time it will take to train your dog not to be aggressive towards other dogs, so that he can be a good citizen? If you don't actively train your APBT to NOT attack other dogs, you may well be unable to take him out in public and you may one day find yourself involved in a lawsuit with a neighbor whose poodle was chewed up by your dog. If you don’t mind isolating your dog in the house, then it doesn’t matter, but if you want him to be a participating member of society, you are going to have to work at it. Are you willing to do that?
If, after giving these ideas careful
consideration, you are sure that a pit bull is what you need and what you can
handle, then the following sections may be helpful to you. [There are actually
a lot of good tips for raising all breeds of dog, so go ahead and take a look
at it anyway.] I am not going to describe all the pros and cons, because
there are plenty of other resources which address that topic. I am going
to discuss the details of finding a well-bred pitbull.
Nature first. Then Nurture. We need to start with good genetic material before we can "create" a good adult dog, a reliable and pleasant companion. We want the puppy to be healthy and to have a genetic predisposition for desirable qualities. These desirable qualities differ, depending on whether the dog is intended to be a watchdog, a tracker/hunter, a guard dog, a competitor in obedience trials, a show dog, a rescue dog, etc. However, there are some fundamental qualities which we desire in any type of dog: loyalty, stability, intelligence, and a good nature. How can we determine whether the puppy is likely to meet these criteria when it has (quickly) grown to adult size and inflexibility?
We examine 3 things: 1. the dam and the sire, 2. siblings from prior litters, and 3. the breeding kennel / the breeder. The first two are fairly self-evident - a good tracker is likely to beget a good tracker, a good watchdog's offspring are likely to make good watchdogs. The third, however, is extremely important. You should visit many kennels before making your choice. Take a good look at each one and compare them. Are the facilities clean? It doesn't matter if they are fancy, but they should be relatively odor-free, swept, etc. What are the conditions of the animals? Are they malnourished or sick? A mother who is poorly fed will produce puppies that are undersized and prone to illness later in life. How does the breeder treat the animals, how does he or she interact with them? A breeder who seems to care about his animals, who displays a modicum of affection is likely to be raising dogs which are happier and better socialized. Is it a puppy mill or are the litters spaced at moderate intervals? A breeder who is raising five or more litters simultaneously will find it virtually impossible to give the puppies the attention that they all need at this critical stage. In the end, if you make enough effort and spend enough time looking, you will find a knowledgeable breeder with a genuine affection and concern for the wellbeing of his dogs.
A good reason to take a careful look at the dam, sire, and siblings from prior litters is to determine what your dog will look like and how his behavior may turn out. APBTs vary widely and wildly in size and appearance. Some look very terrier-like (rangy, almost skinny, with more narrow skulls), while others look more bulldoggy (thick, short, massive, with broad skulls). Most have a variation of rosebud ears (half-erect, with the uppermost tip flopped over), but some have ears which are completely limp (like a lab) or fully pricked (like the wolf-like breeds). As for size, they range from extremely portable (small terrier size) to gargantuan (over 100 pounds). [If you are looking for a smaller dog, you might consider one of the cousin breeds, the Staffordshire Terrier. Note that I do not mean the American Staffordshire Terrier, which is the AKC version of the APBT. The Staffordshire is a very small "bull" breed, a little stockier. If you find someone who breeds these dogs for temperament and performance, rather than for show, you may be able to get a good dog with lots of spunk. Try to avoid the dogs which are bred purely based on physical criteria, as they tend to be very unstable.] This is a result of their mixed genetic heritage. Because these dogs were (and most still are) bred for performance, rather than show/appearance, less emphasis has been placed on how they look. Animals bred for show tend to be judged against an ideal, a “perfect” model, and they are selectively bred into a homogenous appearance (often with no regard for their mental stability or other characteristics). [You will often find related problems in the American Staffordshire, the AKC pit bull, because these dogs are bred primarily for show. Caveat emptor.] Because pit bulls are bred for performance rather than show, they vary along a wide spectrum of physical appearance. They come in all shapes, sizes, and a rainbow of colors and patterns. Nevertheless they share these common traits: “gameness” which we may consider a combination of determination, stubbornness, courage, loyalty, devotion, “heart”), physical strength, love for humans, and aggression towards dogs.
[A note on size: You should carefully consider what size you want your dog to reach as an adult. Look for parentage in the desired size category. Take caution - these dogs are all muscle. A thirty-pound pit bull pulling on his leash can exert a surprising amount force, and a sixty-pound dog can pull a grown man off his feet. If in doubt, you should opt for the smaller, rather than the larger package. If you want a guard dog, keep in mind that a small APBT has a mouth almost as big as his larger cousin. They may not look very intimidating, but they work just as well.]
As for the kennels, I have observed some truly deplorable conditions at kennels. One place that I visited was a horrifying operation run out of a trailer set deep in the woods. Crates were stacked from floor to ceiling and were filled with queens and their puppies who had admittedly not been taken out for extended periods of times (at least days, probably weeks). The trailer was full of these crates and dogs - in the kitchen, the living room, the bathroom, and the bedroom. I imagine that there were at least fifty adult dogs and countless puppies within the trailer, as well as the (questionably) human occupant who lived there! Throughout the building wafted a sickening and pervasive odor of urine, feces, and general stagnant air. One dog that was loose came hobbling by us, dragging a rear leg. The owner of the establishment explained, rather proudly, to me and my companion that she had put the dog’s leg back together herself after it was shattered in an accident involving the tangle of chain link fencing outside. I am not what some would term a "humaniac", but this was one case in which I really ought to have notified the SPCA. The realistic result of the case would probably have involved the euthanization of most of the dogs, but I feel that it would have been a better alternative to being locked up inside a stinking, sweltering kennel for weeks on end. [Note from the webmaster: This event was very early in my learning period about dogs. At that time, I was deeply by the experience, but I had doubts about the severity of the case. Now, however, I would not hesitate to call in either the local authorities, the SPCA, or both.]
I don't believe any rational person
would purchase a dog from an establishment such as the one described above.
However, there are many kennels which fall between the squalor of my (true)
example and what would be a considered a clean and sanitary establishment. It
is better to err on the side of caution - if you have any doubt as to the condition
of the dogs, don't support their breeder by buying one.
The most important factor in raising a pit bull that will be a good dog is this: socialization. This is important for any breed of dog, but particularly for a pit bull. An unsocialized Chihuahua that bites in self-defense is unpleasant, but it is of less concern than a pit bull with the same problem. There are many breeds of dogs which are more inclined to be “snappy” than the pit ll [Cocker Spaniels, for instance... and since the 101 Dalmatians movie was released, prompting an explosion of puppy mills, unstable, snappy Dalmatians have become a problem] , but they receive less press and public attention because their physical makeup doesn't allow them to do as much damage as a pit bull is capable of doing. Remember this - any pit bull that shows aggressiveness or viciousness towards humans has been: 1) improperly socialized (and therefore afraid or suspicious of humans), (2) taught or encouraged to do so, 3) allowed to learn the behavior from other dogs, or 4) allowed to develop his normal puppy “play-fighting” into aggressiveness as an adult. The fourth instance is the most common. Young pit bulls often attack, nip, and otherwise play-fight with their siblings, parents, other adults dogs, and humans. While this behavior seems harmless and even cute or amusing, tolerance or acceptance of this behavior will only lead to trouble.
APBT owners need to have a “zero-tolerance” attitude toward aggressive behavior. Do NOT let your two-month-old pup nip you, even if it doesn't’ hurt or seems funny. Say “NO” firmly and loudly, and hold the puppy's mouth closed until it stops struggling. [This hand closed around the mouth mimics the behavior of a dominant dog towards an inferior. The dominant dog will close its mouth around the muzzle of the other dog to subdue and establish hierarchy.] Verbal discipline is much more effective than physical discipline. Your dog is extremely likely to fight back and begin a vicious circle of “bite, smack, bite, smack” that will continued into adulthood, at which point the dog's bite will no longer be cute, but rather, dangerous. If you want your dog to avoid aggressive physical contact, set a “good example” by not hitting back. Yell loudly but never hit or smack. Above all, do NOT play-fight. APBTs love this and encouragement of such behavior will result in a dog that is impossible to pet without being (lovingly) mauled.
Perhaps, you may not mind your pit bull gnawing your hand - you know that he means well. But not all of your guests, friends, and neighbors will be so understanding. Many people will find it hard to tell the difference between a friendly dog who jumps up, scratching and nipping, to show his enthusiasm and an unfriendly dog who is really attacking. More importantly, many dogs find it hard to tell the difference between who it is okay to jump on and play-fight with and who it is not okay to do this with. Make it easy for your dog - don’t let him play-fight with ANYone.
Unless you are prepared to lock your dog up inside your house and accept no visitors for the rest of his life, you would do well to concern yourself with the socialization of your dog. A puppy who is exposed to as many people, animals, and environments as possible will grow up to be a more friendly, flexible, and tolerant dog. By accepting visitors into your home while your dog is still young, he will learn that it is okay to let certain people into the house - people that YOU let inside and act friendly towards. Don't think that he won’t attack a burglar just because he is friendly towards guests. He WILL learn to distinguish between the welcome friend and the persona non grata. There is a big difference between someone that you smile at and let in through the front door and someone who sneaks in through a window while you are sleeping. He knows the difference.
It is also important to introduce your dog to people outside of the home. By taking your dog out into public as a puppy, you will be able to introduce him to a variety of people, animals, and situations while he is still of a manageable size and malleable nature. Antisocial behavior such as growling, snapping, and biting is to be corrected immediately, so that your dog will learn what is acceptable and what is not. It is much easier to prevent a twenty pound pup from getting into a fight than it is with an eighty pound adult.
It is also to important to socialize your dog in the household. Believe it or not, your puppy may not be getting enough contact with YOU. Many people find the potty-training stage to be a trial, and they end up locking their puppies up in a newspaper-plastered bathroom. This is very tough on young dogs; they tend to become very lonely, and this may prompt the beginning of a lifelong habit of protest barking or whining. Better to never to create such a problem in the first place: a good idea is to find a child's playpen or other suitable enclosure, place it in a central area of the house (the place where the most action goes on - in my house, that happens be the kitchen), cover the floor with papers (to catch accidents), and place the puppy inside. This way the puppy stays out from under foot, but he is still within the central area of activity. Your dog, if he is intended to be a house dog, will most likely spend his time wherever you happen to be, and this arrangement allows him to become accustomed to his role in the physical space of the room. He is out of the way, but he can still observe everything. Don’t forget to take him out for frequent potty breaks.
I built a little playpen for my dog Kloc and placed it in an untrafficked area of our kitchen. He spent the better part of his first year in that pen, and he got to watch the comings and goings of the household from that spot. Several times a day when I could give him my undivided attention, I took him out of the pen for a little while, to keep him from feeling like a prisoner. During these times, he had the free run of the house, and I would follow him around and play with him, keeping him out of trouble. This was when he would learn the proper behavior inside the house: running around - okay, jumping on furniture - not okay, sniffing the nooks and crannies - okay, eating the houseplants - not okay, playing with his toys- okay, going to the bathroom inside the house - not okay (whenever I saw him begin to crouch, I would immediately pick him up and take him outside), etc. Having these supervised loose-in-the-house sessions was key to teaching him proper manners, and it also kept the “accidents” confined to the pen. Naturally, you can’t watch your dog all the time, so the pen is a great place to keep him (and your house) safe and keep his waste products contained within a small area. When I needed to go to class, go shopping, or do something else at home that prevented me from keeping an eye on him - work on the computer, cook a meal, watch a movie, go to sleep - I put him back in the pen. He was never allowed loose in the house unless someone was there to actively supervise him and keep him out of trouble. Catching the bad behavior early on, I was eventually able to let him run around with minimal supervision: whenever I was home, I let him loose, but I didn’t follow him around (I only came running when I heard a suspicious noise). He never got into the habit of relieving himself around the house, chewing furniture, etc., because I watched him very carefully during the critical period, and whenever I couldn't watch him, he went back into the pen. As he grew older and more trustworthy, I gradually increased the length of these unsupervised “outside” sessions until, finally, he was only inside the pen night. To this day, whenever I go into the kitchen, he follows me and settles himself down in that same corner where his pen was, out of the way, watching quietly as I go about my business.
Once you begin allowing your puppy to run free, either in the house or outside, you may run into the problem of him hiding or failing to come when called. A good way to counter this problem before it starts is to attach a long piece of slippery nylon line to the puppy's collar. When your dog disappears under a piece of furniture and refuses to come out, call him and then gently pull him towards you. Praise him profusely when you have dragged him all the way up to you. In time he will learn that he can't avoid your command to come, and he will happily respond. Never leave the dog running around with the line attached when you aren't around, because he might catch himself on something and injure himself. By starting out with this technique while the dog is young, you will prevent him from ever developing the idea that he can ignore your commands. It is better to prevent a problem than to solve it later.
If you don’t want your dog to chew your shoes or clothing, don’t give him shoes or clothing as toys. He can’t tell the difference between new shoe and old ones. Letting him chew your old sneakers is a great way to train him to destroy your brand-new dress shoes. Instead, give him a few nice rawhides, hard rubber toys, or beef bones to chew down those sharp puppy teeth. Kloc loves plastic milk jugs because they make a lot of noise. He has never chewed ANYthing that I did not give to him expressly for that purpose.
The same idea goes for begging. If you don’t want your dog to beg at the table or follow you around while you are snacking on potato chips, don't give him any of your food. Teach him that his dog dish is the only place where he will find anything to eat. If you want to give your dog treats, use them as a training reward or just to be nice, but don'’t hand them out while you are also eating. Letting him make a connection between your eating time and his feeding time will definitely lead to begging.
Please don’t forget what I said about
play-fighting. Your dog can't tell the difference between people who are okay
to play-fight with and other people who don’t like it. Don’t encourage any sort
of aggressive behavior even if it is only playing. Your neighbors, small children,
and other people may not understand that your dog doesn’t want to kill them
when he knocks them over, scratches them, and gnaws on their limbs.
These were some personal
ideas as to how one should go about raising a pit bull that the owner and all
others who appreciate the breed can be proud of. We can't allow the irresponsibility
of a few bad owners to spoil the reputation of an entire breed. I look forward
to your comments and suggestions - please feel free to e-mail me.
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Last modified August 3, 2002
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