A Highlander: The Series Fan'sTour of Scotland.

 

A mad-keen fan, I can be found pontificating on alt.tv.highlander and the HIGHLA-L list on points of Scottish history and culture. 

I was inspired to change career tracks and earn more cash so that I could visit Denver for the Gathering III convention (October 1996).  In 1997 I flew to Baltimore for Syndicon East and then on to Vancouver!!

As a keen 'Highlander: The Series' fan myself, it has become obvious  to me that 'Highlander' and the episode 'Homeland' in particular  has kindled in some of us an interest in MacLeod's Scotland.  There have been several requests on both the newsgroups and mailing lists from fans planning on travelling to  Scotland for suggestions for places to visit.  As I have the advantage of living in Scotland, I have drawn up a little  tour itinerary for the Highlander fan.  If you have any questions or would like to go into more depth, just contact me.

Before we go any further, I just thought you might like to see this :-....

A Highlander fan's tour of Scotland

If you are coming from the United States or Canada, you will probably  arrive at Glasgow or Prestwick airport.  Glasgow is an old city  and was indeed around in Duncan MacLeod's day - and in Connor's. 

As a trading city, it came to prominance and prosperity in the Victorian Era and the majority of its architecture reflects this.  There is little left that Duncan would recognise.  However,  since you will doubtless have had a long tiring flight, you  would probably be best advised to spend your first night in  Glasgow or its outskirts and be ready to travel refreshed in the morning.  Should you have the time or inclination Glasgow  does offer many attractions.  Always busy and bustling, once  grimy and mean, Glasgow used to have a reputation as 'no mean  city' - but no more.  Glasgow has been 'City of Culture' and  host to the National Garden Festival and European City of Architecture for its fine Victorian buildings. The Burrell Art Collection is known worldwide.

The first leg of your tour should be from Glasgow to Fort William  on the A82.  A journey of only 102 miles, but please remember that this is not a Motorway or Interstate, and you are liable to be  distracted at every turn by the scenery.  This route will take  you through Glencoe, scene of the infamous Massacre of the  Macdonalds by the Campbells (acting as Government troops in  the reign of William of Orange).  Not part of the Highlander  mythos but the dark and brooding atmosphere of this haunted  glen is still effective.

Fort William, the town, grew up around Fort William, the fort.  This was built after the 1715 Jacobite uprising to ensure that  the Highlanders could not rise again!  One good thing that  came out of this  period was the building of a network of roads  (intended to move troops around) because until that time there were only drover's tracks.  The town thrives on tourism, so you  can be sure of your welcome (Rachael MacLeod please take note).

Ten miles from Fort William to the west on the A830 you will come to GLENFINNAN.  Yep, Duncan's birthplace - but don't  expect to find his village.  Never a heavily populated area  at the best of times, many highland settlements ceased to  exist in the late 18th century during the Highland Clearances.  (no - it wasn't about cutting down trees)  However this  is where Bonnie Prince Charlie raised his standard for the clans  to rally to at the start of the 1745 Jacobite Rebellion.  Visit  the monument that was raised there to the memories of these  fearless warriors (you saw it briefly at the end of  Homeland).  There is also a visitors centre.  The monument is open all year round but the visitor's centre is only open during the summer months.  LOCH SHEIL, on the shores of which Duncan tells us he  was raised, is an area of great natural beauty and there are  Forestry Commision plantations and trails. 

From Glenfinnan continue west on the A830 to Lochailort, then take the A861. CASTLE TIORAM, the castle used in the episode 'Homeland' is in the area known as 'the MOIDART'.  Since it does not show on any map, it may be difficult to find, but I think you should find it around it on this road somewhere around Kinlochmoidart.  A warning, from those who have visited the castle, is to check tides before going out to it.  At low tide there is a causeway from the mainland but at high time the island is completely cut off. (NOTE: as of June 1998 the castle has been closed to the public for restoration work and will probably remain closed the remainder of the year)

The second leg of your journey should be Fort William to Kyle of Lochalsh on the A87.  This road will bring you past CASTLE  EILEAN DONAN (the castle from the first Highlander movie).  Kyle of Lochalsh was, until recently, the only year-round  ferry crossing point to the Isle of Skye.  In 1995 a bridge was opened here, linking the island to the mainland.  You may  wish to cross the bridge and visit Skye (home of the Clan MacLeod),  or you may decide to carry on with the next leg of your journey,  or even to stay here overnight and carry on in the morning.    Warning!  In this part of Scotland, English is often a second  language.  Gaelic is commonly spoken and many of the road signs  are in English and Gaelic.  You should have no trouble making  yourself understood,however, or in understanding (unless you  have seriously insulted the locals, in which case they will  pretend not to speak English at all)

The third leg of the journey takes you to Inverness.  From Kyle of Lochalsh, go back along the A87 until it joins the A82 again  and head North East.  This will bring you along the shores of  Loch Ness, past Castle Urquhart to Inverness itself.  Maybe  you'll spot the monster?  Who knows, there are some serious  scientists who believe in her. 

Whatever your other plans,  stop here at least one night.  There are interesting places  all around Inverness, even if the town itself does go to bed  with the sun! (Well it did some years ago when I was last there).

From Inverness you can visit Culloden, where Bonnie Prince Charlie and his Highlanders were defeated.  It is five miles  east of the town and there is a visitors centre and an  audio/visual show.  If you are lucky you may arrive on one  of the days when the Clan Battle re-enactment Society is doing one of its shows.  These are not always advertised  and some toursists have been seriously freaked when hairy,  tartan clad Highlanders have appeared out of the mists,  brandishing swords and dirks.

You can also visit Moniac Castle Winery, Moniac, a few miles west of Inverness.  Moniac Castle produces many wines from  local sources, including Silver Birch sap and the Meadowsweet  flower; but the main reason for a Highlander fan to visit it  is the Mead it produces.  Mead, made from honey, is possibly  man's oldest fermented beverage (even before beer or wine)  and it is the only truly native British drink (hops and  grapes had to be imported before wine or beer could be made).  It was definately drunk in Duncan's time - and is definately  drunk in mine, in large quantities!  Contact the winery for information on the Winery Tour and stock up on the products.  As a small producer, not much Moniac Castle stuff gets  exported - even Edinburgh has occasional problems getting  the goods.

You'll want to include a distillery tour on your itinery,  of course.  The Glenmorangie Distillery  is about 50 miles  north of Inverness. Ten miles north of Tain on the A9.  This is the whisky that Duncan drinks, I am informed.  Or  you could head east to Rothes for the Glen Grant distillery,  or south-east to Tomintoul for the Glenlivet distillery.  Glen Grant and Glenlivet advertise their tours as being  free - Glenmorangie doesn't say.

If you've chosen to go north, have a look in at the Cromarty Court House, which shows how a Scottish law court would have  looked in the 18th century.  Coming south take your time and explore Stirling, gateway to  the Highlands.  A little early for Duncan perhaps but you could  take a look at Bannockburn, scene of Robert the Bruce's famous  victory over the English (right at the end of Braveheart the  movie) and the Wallace Monument, dedicated to William Wallace (the hero of Braveheart)

Down finally to Edinburgh, capital of Scotland.  If Duncan didn't come here in his youth, I'll eat my hat.  Indeed since  Bonnie Prince Charlie captured and held the city for several  weeks he must have been here. There are many buildings in  Edinburgh's Old Town that date back to before that time.  Indeed Gladstone's Land is a tenament building from the 17th  century that is open as a museum.  The Painted Room is a  gentleman's apartment from the seventeenth century.  Explore  the courts and 'closes' around this area - another world and  much as they would have been  then (though lots cleaner, I  assure you.  You'll not hear the famous Edinburgh cry of  'garde loo' these days).

While you're here, visit Edinburgh Castle (a MUST, I assure you) and see The Stone of Destiny (aka The Stone of Scone). This tour should take you about a week, assuming that you spend one night in each of the towns I have mentioned.  You  should allow two days for Inverness and at least two for  Edinburgh.  If you have more time, there is much more to see  and do than I have time to list here.  If you need more  details, e-mail me personally for info.

There is no need usually to book accomodation weeks ahead  but it is advisable to make use of the Scottish Tourist Board's  'Book-a-Bed-Ahead' scheme to ensure your *next* night's  lodgings.  Edinburgh during the Festival can be extremely busy,  so an early booking at this time is a very good idea.

The Scottish Tourist Board (VisitScotland) has a wonderful site for you to take a more detailed virtual tour of Scotland, and links to accomodation services.

If you've enjoyed the tour let me know.

If you've enjoyed Scotland in the movies, you may also enjoy this site "Scotland The Movie"