Oahu Session Report Sunday 5/31
5:10am-9:00am
Lighthouse
overcast, fairly strong sideshores
1'-3' (Hawaiian)
me- 6'4" T&C thruster
rich- 6'4" T&C thruster
paddled out with 3 other early surfers. waves were cleaner & better formed than the previous morning.. this day i watched brother rich struggle; even saw him get fully pitched on a set wave. we both paddled for it but he was deeper & insisted he had it. i backed off & let him take it way late, then i heard the telltale heavy groans from the guys paddling out.....i ragged him hard. i was stoked with my session, one particular overhead set wave i had in front of rich where all fins broke free on 2 consecutive off-the lips. couldn't wipe the grin off my face for hours.
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Oahu Session Report Saturday 5/30
5:30am-8:45am
Lighthouse
overcast, fairly strong sideshores
1'-3'+ (Hawaiian)
me- 6'4" T&C thruster
rich- 6'4" T&C thruster
running a bit later than planned, still, no one was out when we pulled up to the cliff. wind made things a bit chilly, still had a few close- out four footers. brother rich was on again.....and i struggled to with my wave selection & footing. oh well.
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Oahu Session Report Friday 5/29
5:15pm-7:15pm
White Plains Beach (BPT-NAS)
sunny, moderate sideshores
1'-1.5' (Hawaiian)
me- 6'4" T&C thruster
rich- 6'4" T&C thruster
brother rich convinced me to take off early to catch some late evening mushburgers at the base. tail end of the south swell & strong winds guaranteed some waist to shoulder high funstuff. i should have stayed at the office. couldn't get in the groove, while rich had a good session. one wave in particular, he pulled off an almost upside down backside lip smack on a close out section while i was right below him. would have made an awesome picture.
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Oahu Session Report Wednesday 5/27
2:15pm-5:00pm
Lighthouse
Sunny, moderate sideshores
2'-3'+ (Hawaiian)
6'4" T&C thruster
took the afternoon off, because i can. had a blast in consistently well overhead surf from a new south swell. everyone seemed content to fight for the inside scraps while me & another dude shared the sets. didn't waste time wonderin why. couple of nice barrels & a multitude of satisfying off-the-lips and snaps. super stoke session. need i say more?
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Oahu Session Report Monday Memorial Day 5/25
6:30am-9:30am
Lighthouse
sunny, moderate sideshores
1'-3' (Hawaiian)
me- 6'2" T&C thruster
rich- 6'4" T&C thruster
this day was mostly tradewind slop with some overhead waves sneaking in. ultra low tide, after my third ride, i wasn't paying attention to where i was paddling, next thing i knew, i was high & dry, balancing while the bottom of my stick was being gouged & fins raked. there's a nasty spot near the channel where a coral head is extra tall. virgin board no more (2 months old). oh well, lucky i have excellent connections at the factory.
brother rich was up to his usual standard, surfing with a leash today and ripping backside. i had a mediocre session, bummin after dinging my board.
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Oahu Session Report Sat 5/23, Sun 5/24
Sat-3:30pm -6:15pm
Sun-6am-9am
K-Bay(KMCAS between pyramid rock & end of runway)
overcast, strong side-onshores
choppy, 1'-3' (Hawaiian)
me- 6'2" T&C thruster
rich- 6'4" T&C thruster
we pulled up late afternoon Saturday to find 2-3 surfers at pyramid rock. we decided to surf the empty middle section that had more punch but mostly closed out on the inside. brother rich & me have surfed this place in these conditions since the early 80's. for me, it was the first wet in nearly a week (been moving to a new pad). rich went leashless & surfed solid as usual. he was pulling off powerful turns & off the lips and never had to swim for his stick.
i was struggling with poor wave selection & getting smacked around on the inside. it seemed that every ankle slapper broke right in front of me and had the punch of a low-tide overhead backdoor pit. plus the nasty rip that was running parallel to shore was making it frustrating on this small blown out day. finally had several satisfying frontside & backside lip smacks, and a memorable (for me) carve off the top on one of those sections where it's like a wave is coming at you from a 90 degree angle. the worst day surfing still beats the hell out of the best day of work. most of the waves we caught were about chest high, a few were a foot or two overhead.
early Sunday (5/24) morning two surfing buddies piled into my car with me & rich with the hope of beating the winds. unfortunately, the conditions turned out to be a replay of the previous eve. seemed much colder with the sun just rising, though. short rides, maybe two or three maneuvers, but still fun. the whole time we were there no one else even pulled up to the beach.
Oahu Session Report Sunday 6/14/98
5:30am-9:30am
off the west coast of Oahu
Clear Morning, calm
3'-4' occasional 5'
me- 6'4" T&C thruster
rich - 6'4" T&C thruster
Swell that hit on Wednesday... was dying fast, me & rich decided to dawn it again at a semi secret spot we frequent. conditions were better than the day before, again no one else out until an hour later when it turned into a reunion session. 2 old teammates from our contest days (Kyle Chu, Billy Beter), a friend from the T&C factory Brian Ching) & 2 other mutual friends paddled out. Kyle was cutting it up on a longboard & Billy's attack hasn't changed since i last saw him surf 10+ years ago. old friends & uncrowded juice.
rich surfed powerful as usual but was not having his usual session. for me, it was almost as good as the previous day...managed to pull off several extremely late take-offs, too.....
good surfing to you,
bud
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Oahu Session Report Saturday 6/13/98
5:30am-8:30am
off the west coast of Oahu
Clear Morning, calm/light sideshores
4'-5' occasional 6'
me- 6'4" T&C thruster
rich - 6'4" T&C thruster
Swell that hit on Wednesday... still had plenty of juice, me & rich decided to dawn it at a semi secret spot we frequent. proved to be a good call. one other guy out (he went in after an hour). many of the sets were closing out, but if you chose the right one you'd have a big beautiful wall to surf. rich was ripping as usual but kept complaining about being under-gunned and about all the waves that were going unridden. "if i had my 7'9" i would have been all over that set." gotta admit that he can turn his gun like a short board.
i had another excellent session...board seemed to do exactly what i wanted. caught lots of waves and had several good ones in front of rich. ended the session as it started to get blown out.
good surfing to you,
bud
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Oahu Session Report Friday 6/12/98
5:10am-7:30am
Big Rights
Clear Morning, calm/light offshores
3'-5' occasional 6'
6'4" T&C thruster
Swell that hit on Wednesday... still had plenty of juice, inconsistent but another bump was overlapping. I was walking out on the reef well before any significant light and there was already people in the lineup. Got lucky and timed my jump through the impact zone perfectly. Once you made it past the impact/closeout zone, the rip that formed between Consessions barreling to my left and Big Rghts pitching on my right made for an easy paddle out to the line up. Many sneaker sets were over double-o and very thick. lots of tension in the crowd, at the first sign of a big one, every one went scratching for the horizon. pounderous stuff.......I love it!!
board was working like magic. . . buried lots of rail on several very satisfying carves off the top & had some nice snaps under the lip. on my first wave i dropped into a cavern that made the whole session.
good surfing to you,
bud
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Oahu Session Report Tuesday 6/9/98
2-4:15pm
Lighthouse
Sunny, strong side shores (trades)
1'-2' occasional 2.5'
me-6'2" T&C thruster
Rich- 6'4 T & C thruster
Rich was off so I took off at 1pm to surf with him. Swell was mostly gone so went to Lighthouse knowing that the tradewinds would help what ever was left. Very blown out, but looked really good from the cliff. Sailboarders out in force. I made the mistake of taking my newest stick. Confirmed my suspicion that the board is not what works for me. I had a shit session. Gonna order a new board on Friday. Rich went leashless & surfed well after a slow start.
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Oahu Session Report Sunday 6/7/98
8:00am-12:45pm
Lighthouse
Sunny, side shores
2'-3' occasional 4'
me-6'4" T&C thruster
Rich- 6'4 T & C thruster
Me & Rich paddled out about 8 o'clock, only about four other guys out. Some sets were closing out into the channel. Slight side-shore winds, completely cloudless sky, brought a disposable camera out with us. Took turns taking pictures of each other. Surfed till 12:45pm and was very sunburned. Excellent session.
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Oahu Session Report Saturday 6/6/98
2:00pm-5:00pm
Ala Moana Park
Sunny, light off shores
1'-3' occasional 4'
6'4" T&C thruster
Rich was stuck working all day, so I took off at noon & headed for the Park for to catch part of the current south swell.. Drove through the park 3 times without finding a place to park. Police were out in force, giving out parking tickets. Finally ended up parking on Ala Moana Blvd & walked past the tennis courts to the beach. Classic conditions, good overhead surf but inconsistent.. Paddled out to Courts first, so that I wouldn't have to walk on the reef. Tide was high; the set waves were real good, other waves were slopey. Ran into old friend, Lance Hookano. Longboarders started to overwhelm the place so I paddled down to First Hole and saw that I was the only surfer among about 15 spongers. Stayed there for about half an hour then paddled down to Big rights. Had several excellent rides (IMO), before riding the last one in. Bad sunburn.