An in Depth Review of the Worr Game Products Autococker

History:
  The autococker first came out in the year of 1989, it was designed and first manufactured by 
Bud Orr. The gun was heavily based on the already popular Sniper and Sniper 2 pump guns. Back
then the autococker was just chaulk full of design and performance flaws, and thats where it got
its reputation for being one of the harderst guns to take care of.

Pre 97 autococker:
  The pre 97 autocockers were full of problems, the regulators on them were terrible, the triggers
were very sloppy, besides that they just didn't look good. These cockers were just terrible out
of the box and were a real pain to try and time.

98 autocockers:
  INTRODUCTION
  The 98 and 97 autocockers are very similiar, the only real difference is that the 98 has some
minor milling on the site rail and also has a sto hammer kit. Bud Orr updated almost everything
from that first autococker to the power house he has now. The 98 cocker comes with an updated
regulator, the sledgehammer, which is not nearly as good as a roc regulator but still works a heck of
a lot better then the pre 97 ones. The grips are updated and now they actually have something
in them that resembles comfort. Also much of the side to side slop in the trigger is gone. The
only thing that is essential and is still not on the 98 cocker is a threaded timing rod.

  REVIEW
  The first thing i felt when i picked up my 97 cocker was that wow, this thing is going to be
able to shoot a lot more balls than my spyder. The trigger just feels like its ready to dish it
out. Unlike some mag and spyder triggers i have felt the cocker trigger has still got some spring
and bounce to it, i don't like the triggers that are so light there is really nothing to pull.
  Ok, i go to the field and gas it up, the thing gasses up fine, no leaks or anthing, i dry fire
it a couple of times and it seems to be going good. I load up the old vl 200 and go out to the 
chrono, the thing chronos in a little low at about 254. I take out the cocking rod and stick the
allen wrench in. I put the gun up to the chrono and fire again. Nothing happens, i keep trying 
to fire and just hear a little burping sound. And then i see my cocking rod on the picnic table.
Opps i say to myself. I put the cocking rod in and about 8 balls come out. I put it up to the chrono
again and it works fine. The speed is good and i take it out on the field. The first thing that I 
notice is that wow it shoots straight. The stock barrel on it shoots ok but the dye 
aluminum is heavenly. The next thing that I notice is that wow i already hit two people. When you
first get a cocker its like people are just sacred of you for a while cause you can whip so much
paint.
  The accuracy is great on the cocker, the ball will never hook or go side to side unless you have
many broken balls in it. Thats the best thing about the cocker. It shoots straight until the 
ball just starts to drop. The next thing is the cocker is so darn quiet. The only thing you can
hear is the back block moving back and forth, and that just sounds cool! After my first day out
I realized i needed a revolution cause wow did i ever have to shake it a lot on the field. The
autococker in itself has no or very little blowback but when added with the fact that it shoots 
so many balls a second, you need a vl rev.
  All in all the autococker way out peformed my spyder with a dye ss barrel and cyclone 2 bolt. 
Also contrary to what i hear from some people the cocker is not hard to chrono in nor is it going
to break the first time you take it out.

Autococker Dissasembly
  The only thing that is recommend by Worr Games is to take out the bolt, wipe it off and wipe
the body off. I did that the first time i played with it and then broke down and took it all apart.
First what you do is take off the barrel and remove the bolt. Then you can either take off the frame
and unscrew the hammer lug from there or stick an allen wrench down the lug hole in the top that
you really should get drilled. Bud Orr still doesn't do that either. Whats up with that Bud???
Anyway, you should take a mental bearing as to where your lug is because that will save you some
time in trying to put it back together later. When the lug is screwed in all the way you can 
just take off the beaver tail, remove the main spring, and velocity adjuster part, and the hammer
will slide right out simple as cake. I found that i could take this section apart almost as
fast as i could put my spyder back together because it was a darn pain to get that rubbber 
buffer that is in a spyder back in. When you have the hammer out that is basically it, other than
the valve and the pneumatics those you dont really want to go messing with because you need a 
valve tool for the valve and it is really easy to break the seals. The pneumatics are fairly
simple to take off also but there really is no point to doing that.

Help I think i broke it!!!
  Never fear its not that hard to get an autococker to get working again, the tough part is trying
to find out what is actually wrong with it. The most likely thing is that a. the pressure entering
the ram is too low or b. the timing is off. If you haven't touched your 3way and you have a 
threaded timing rod then its usually not the timing. If the cocker is sometimes not firing and
then firing two balls at a time it is because your sear lug is not set up right. The ideal thing
is for the cocker to fire about half way through the trigger pull. I usually find this is when you
screw the lug in all the way and then back the lug out 3 full turns, this has always worked well
for me.
  If it is the actual 3 way timing that is off i suggest you find someone to show you how to time
a cocker, or else go to Ravis page because it has a pretty good timing section. If the pressure 
entering the ram is too low, you have to degas the gun, take the sledgehammer apart and then
turn the small allen screw in it. If you have a roc just hold the trigger back while the gun
is gassed up then turn the roc knob so it is all the way out. Then slowly turn the knob so that
the back block is all the way out and then give it another quarter turn and it should be good to 
go.
  If the cocker is leaking when you first screw the tank on, make sure that before you screw the 
tank on, you cock your gun. When i first got my cocker, it would cock itself at first but that adds
stress so just cock it before you screw the tank on. The next thing to check is to make sure
your bolt is not put in upsidedown. This seems painfully obvious but is very easy to miss. If 
that doesnt do anything make sure that the orings on the bolt are still intact. The last thing
is to make sure that the roc or sledgehammer is pressurized enough. If i turn my roc all the way 
off it will start to leak air and thats not good.
 Help my cocker is loading balls but isnt firing. This is caused by the cocking rod coming out.
A simple way to fix this is to simply screw it in again. If the rod is constantly coming loose just
put a little piece of teflon tape on it. I say NEVER LOCTITE THE COCKING ROD!!!

Essential things for the cocker when you first buy it...
  The only two things that I find are very important to have for a cocker right out of the box
are a threaded timing rod and the lug holes drilled. The threaded timing rod makes it so that 
your timing ususally will not go out and the lug holes make it that much easier to time.

Modifications
 I will break this section down into barrels, bolts, and pneumatics. I am only listing the products
i like and recommend. There is a lot more stuff out there but it just doesn't seem as good.

Barrels:
  The best barrels for the cocker i have seen so far are dye stainless steel and dye aluminum. 
Don't let anyone tell you otherwise but there is no performance difference between the aluminum
and the stainless steel, the aluminum is just as smooth but the stainless steel looks a little 
better and will hold a hoan for a longer time.
 The next barrel on the list is the otp (on target products) ceramic barrel. This barrel is by
far the quietest barrel i have ever seen. The thing is quieter than my dye when it is dry firing.
This barrel also carries a higher price tag, in the $100 range. Well worth it though.
  The next barrel is the Lapco Autospirit. This barrel is a small bore only paint, dont think
about shooting bigball, nelson, or premium out of it. The lapco makes about as much noise as a
dye and has from what ive seen the same accuracy.

Bolts:
  The otp venturi bolt is pretty good. The slingshot bolt is bad news. They say it simplifys
timing the cocker but it really just covers up for what you did wrong.
  The lightning bolt is also very good.

Pneumatics:
 The ans ram and mini ram are some of the best that i have used or seens. I think ans makes good
quality stuff and it also looks good too. Also on this list is the palmers ram and it works great.
 The ans 3way really doesn't work any better than the stock 3 way but hey, the thing looks better
than that brass one. The palmers quickswitch is probably the way to go if you are looking to 
upgrade from a stock 3 way.
  The only options in the regulator catagoury are the roc reg made by palmer and the ans Jackhammer.
Both are very good regulators, i have the roc regulator but they both work just as good. The
only difference being is that you can rebuild a Jackhammer with mag parts, and the roc has to be
sent back to the factory. But who cares the Palmer Roc regulator has a lifetime warranty and 
Palmer is known for making high quality products...