Pre-Installation Cleaning / Detailing...
Rigging Engine/Trans For Installation...
Dropping the Engine / Transmission into Position...
...Transmission Crossmember Installation Tools...
AOD/T5 "Truss Style" Transmission Crossmember Installation...
Check to be sure everything fits properly, then finish torque all the previously mentioned bolts.
Be sure to double check clearances at the :
...Checking Drivetrain Alignment / Clearances...
AOD Specific Considerations...with minor modification, the stock RX-7 automatic shifter can be used to actuate the Ford transmission. The Mazda shift linkage extends thru the trans tunnel on the pasenger side, but can be easily bent to the opposite side to reach the driver’s side linkage on the Ford transmission. Be sure to include a neutral safety switch, regardless of your choice of shifter.
T-5 Specific Considerations...the Ford cable type throwout fork can be converted to the RX-7’s hydraulic system by using a “pull style” clutch slave cylinder, such as Wilwood’s PN# 260-1333. These slaves use an in-line anchor stud that is easily adapted for our purposes. A hole in a simple angle iron bracket bolted to the left motor mount is all that is required, but the anchor point on the bellhousing for the cable will have to be removed. In order to fully release the clutch with the pull slave, a clutch master cylinder with a larger 1” bore (vs the stock 5/8” bore) will be required.
Driveshaft Options...
The earlier ‘79-’82 model RX-7s use a driveline with small replaceable u-joints and a smaller pinion flange bolt pattern, (4) .325 dia holes on a 2.946 bolt circle. The later ‘83-’85 1st gen RX-7s use a driveline with small non-replaceable u-joints and a larger pinion flange bolt pattern, (4) .333 dia holes on a 3.500 bolt circle. When building a driveline for your RX-7, it is wise to use replaceable u-joints to keep future replacement costs down. We have available a special rear driveshaft flange that uses a much larger/stronger/replaceable u-joint, with the larger ‘83-’85 bolt pattern. Please call for info.
2....Considerations & Requirements....
4....Engine / Transmission Installation....
5....Exhaust / Throttle Cable / Accessory Drive / Pulleys....
6....Cooling / Fuel Systems....
7....RX-7 Wiring Harness Connector ID and Circuit Locations....
8....Electrical System Modifications By Circuit....
...This is probably your last chance to easily detail those places remote and
inaccessible, so take a quick look around before it’s too late.
...For installation, the engine/trans should be rigged so that they naturally hang
level, or slightly tail down.
...Carefully lower the engine and transmission assembly into place.
...After the engine/trans are in their approximate position, support the transmission,
with a floor jack or jackstand, with the output shaft centerline about 6-1/4” below the top
of the transmission tunnel.
...Remove the engine hoist and chains.
...Torque the (6) rubber mount/block bolts to 30 ft/lbs.
...3/8" hand drill
...3/8" drill bit
...9/16" wrench
...9/16" socket and torque wrench
NOTE: if your application uses a “truss style” transmission crossmember, the crossmember should be bolted onto the installed transmission, then jacked into place against the RX-7’s floorpan. This assures proper location of the holes that must be drilled to secure the crossmember to the chassis. The correct side-to-side position can be determined by centering the transmission between the RX-7’s sheetmetal “frame rails”. The crossmember will leave a gap on the driver’s side to leave room for the fuel lines.
Step 1... Using the installed crossmember as a template, drill (4) 3/8” holes thru the RX-7’s floorpan.
Step 2... Install the supplied tab/bolt assemblies thru the drilled holes from the top side (under the carpet).
Step 3... Use the supplied lockwashers and nuts to secure the crossmember to the underside of the floor.
3/8” bolts........................30 ft/lbs
7/16” bolts......................40 ft/lbs
1/2” bolts........................50 ft/lbs
(an exeption is the (2) long bolts through the center of the engine mounts. Nyloc nuts are used on these, so torquing to 15 ft/lbs will motor mount damage)
...Firewall
...Crossmember
...Steering Linkage
If you find that you need additional clearance at the crossmember of the steering linkage, you can add spacer washers between the rubber engine mounts and the block to raise the engine as necessary. We try to keep the engine as low as possible to maximize the room available for the 5.0’s EFI induction system, and to minimize the chance that you will have to modify your hood. Be sure to re-check your hood clearance.
...The properly installed V8 is centered in the car. The RX-7’s rear
differential’s pinion flange is offset 3/4” to the right of center. This is normal. The
engine/trans and the rear diff’s pinion centerline should be parallel, but NOT concentric.
If the centerlines were concentric (exactly lined up with each other), the u-joints would
fail prematurely as they need at least slight internal movement to lube properly.
...The assembled driveline & slip yoke can be installed. The (4) pinion flange bolts should be torqued to 27 ft/lb. At least 3/8” of clearance should exist between all parts of the driveline / torque arm / transmission tunnel.
For the transmission cooler, due to the RX-7’s lite weight and gear ratios, the requirements are minimal. A small auxillary cooler core attached to the radiator core with ti-straps will work fine.
Although we sell brand new driveshafts with large replaceable u-joints for your RX-7 conversion, an existing Ford driveline can also be modified by a driveline shop to fit. The proper way to get the correct length measurement is to insert the output yoke all the way into the transmission, then pull it out about 1”. This will insure that during normal in and out travel, the yoke will not bottom out as the suspension moves up and down. Measure from the center of the front of the u-joint to the flat face of the pinion flange on the rearend. Be sure to measure the needed driveline length with the rear axle supported in a loaded condition. A free hanging rear suspension will give you a false measurement.