....Exhaust / Throttle Cable / Accessory Drive / Pulleys....
THROTTLE CABLE...
ACCESSORIES...
Power Steering...
Air Conditioning Compressor...
The LS1's original plastic air cleaner and ductwork does not fit under the RX-7's hood, so the LS1's intake air temp (IAT) sensor will need to be re-located into the new intake duct. The easiest way is to simply drill a hole in the new duct, and simply epoxy the sensor in place. This works just fine, but it is not "letter of the law" legal in Calif. In order to pass the Calif smog referee's inspection, most have found it easiest to simply remove the hood and install the stock LS1 ductwork with the IAT sensor in it's original "smog certified configuration" location for the inspection process. In Calif, it's all about jumping thru the hoops and getting that coveted "BAR" sticker for your conversion.
2....Considerations & Requirements....
4....Engine / Transmission Installation....
5....Exhaust / Throttle Cable / Accessory Drive / Pulleys....
6....Cooling / Fuel Systems....
7....RX-7 Wiring Harness Connector ID and Circuit Locations....
8....Electrical System Modifications By Circuit....
EXHAUST...
Option #1- stock exhaust manifolds...Stock exhaust manifolds will fit, but some are better than others. The '02 and newer manifolds are very good, probably better than any shorty manifolds you will find. We recommend them for all but the highly modified engines.
Option #2- Headers...If you have a T-56 and would like to use long-tube headers, JTR (JagsThatRun.com) has some that were designed for a 3rd gen RX-7/LS1/T56, and they also fit our 2nd gen LS1 conversion as long as you are using a T56. They will not fit a 4L60-E.
...The rest of the exhaust system is best left to the professional. The best underbody exit path for the exhaust that maintains a cat converter, proper shielding, and maximum ground clearance is down along the passenger side of the
transmission tunnel.
A good smog legal plan... would route the driver's side 2-1/2" pipe joining the passenger side 2-1/2" pipe in a "Y" in the starter/bellhousing area. The exit of the "Y" would be a single 3-1/2" pipe thru
a single hi-flo catalytic converter (uses existing RX-7 heat shields), which is then split again using another "Y" in front of the
rear differential (just like the stock RX-7 system). The (2) 2-1/2" pipes leaving the "Y" should carry on to mufflers in the stock RX-7
locations. Beware of chambered mufflers w/o packing, as they can cause a bit if resonance inside the passenger compartment at highway
speeds.
If your needs do not require a cat... true dual exhaust can be achieved by routing your exhaust similar to the pic at right. The "X" pipe as shown is generally regarded as an upgrade, producing a much smoother sound.
Throttle linkage...
The OEM Chevy LS1 throttle cables can be easily adapted to the RX-7's throttle pedal, but may require a small spacer at the pedal end of the cable to fully open the throttle blades.
...Use the LS1 Power Steering Pump... the RX-7 steering rack can be plumbed to the Chevy pump using custom hoses. The Mazda rack came in 2 versions, one that had 2 hoses, and one that had 3 hoses going to the pump/valve body assembly. The 2 hose version can be plumbed in directly. The 3 hose version can be plumbed into the Chevy pump as follows...
..."A"- small pressure hose- this is a high pressure return line that went from the RX-7 rack to the return metering valve that was mounted on the side of the RX-7 pump.
A stepper motor controlled the needle shaped valve to control the volume of fluid that was bled off to vary the amount of power assist. The stepper was controlled by the RX-7's "power steering control unit", a computer located under the dash to the left of the steering column.
This hose should be connected to a "T" installed in the low pressure return line "C", allowing excess pressure from the rack to bleed off, returning fluid to the pump's resevoir.
..."B"- larger pressure hose- this is the pressure line from the pump to the rack. Plumb this hose directly to the Chevy pump's pressure fitting using a custom fabricated hi-pressure hose.
..."C"- large low pressure return hose- this is the return line to the resevoir. This hose should have a "T" installed with the open leg of the T connected to hose "A".
Plumbing the PS system as noted above will result in a reduced amount of power assist, perfect for high speed driving.
Steering effort at low speeds will be reduced to about 1/2 the assist provided by the stock RX-7 power steering. Drivers not familiar with the RX-7 rarely detect that the power steering assist has been reduced.
...Use the existing LS1 AC compressor. Use the fittings for the LS1 compressor and the RX-7's chassis AC fittings. Using new rubber and crimp sleeves, assemble your own custom hoses that are the exact length and fitting twist needed to make the hoses lay exactly where you want. When you are satisfied with the fit, take the hoses back to the AC shop and have them set the crimp sleeves. You will then have exact fit custom AC hoses.
Air Cleaner and MAF...
...The easiest way to plumb the LS1 air cleaner and MAF sensor is a mix of OEM and aftermarket fittings, hoses, and a universal cone style air cleaner. A pretty straight forward install is pictured at right, with the LS1's MAF positioned near the throttle body, in the middle of the pipe. More involved "cold-air" style installations typically locate the air cleaner in back of the passenger side headlite, and include a heat shield to block most of the engine heat so that the air cleaner mostly gets colder air that came in around the headlite linkage. A cheap, reliable source for the rubber elbows and fittings to build your own is http://intakehoses.com