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No, it's not skinning bucks............ Developed and maintained by JP Finn
The Secret Cuss Words
Mordant......Chemical used to make the dye colorfast
Mordanting...Treating the material with the mordant
Dyestuff.....What you use to make the Dyebath
Dyebath......Solution of water and dyestuff extract
Scour........Removing the natural oils from your material prior to dyeing
Tools
Large enameled pot or two (Canning pots work well)Scour the material
First you will want to scour your new material. This will remove the starch, sizing and any oils, be they natural or unnatural.
Both store bought and home spun and woven materials will need to be scoured. Oils and other coverings have a way of settling out of the air on your dye goods.
The actual work of scouring is fairly easy. Just wash the material a couple times using plain soap. Dishwashing soap works pretty well, as does the "Hunter's Soap" from the sporting goods department during hunting season. Don't use your "New, Improved Whitening and Stain Fighter" laundry soap. Keep those dryer sheets out of the dryer, also. The point is to get it ready to stain...
The original method was to boil the material in rainwater a couple times, rinsing the material in clean rainwater, then changing the water and boiling it again until nothing was coming out.
Step 2Again, this is a simple process. As a rule, wrap the dyestuff in a loosely woven rag, tie it closed and boil it in soft water. Cheesecloth bags make great dyestuff bags, but just dumping the stuff in the water and straining it out later works also. Different dyestuffs take different times to leach out, but that's all there is to it. Let it soak.
Step 3Again, add the mordant to some soft water and then add the material. Boil and stir, soak, stir and let it soak while stirring some more. You want the mordant to soak evenly into every fiber and strand in the material.
Hang the material until it is damp dry.
Step 4
Dye the material
Heat the dyebath. Add the still damp material. Boil and stir, stir and soak, then stir some more. You want every part of the material to get an even stain. Folds and wrinkles will come out a different shade unless you sir every so often to rearrange the cloth in the dyebath.
Different materials take different times to take the dye. Some will take longer, some shorter, but usually the longer it is in the dyebath, the more color is absorbed.
Hang the material out to dry. Hand wash it in soft water (without soap) to remove the majority of the unfixed dye. Hang it back out to dry.
Step 5
Admire your handiwork
You now have a chunk of cloth ready to be tuned into that eyecatching outfit.
I recommend that you get a small notebook and record what you did and for how long for each batch. Every one will turn out just a little different. The notes will help you later when you are trying to duplicate that unique shade that you got last year.
Now that I have you all excited to try some home dyeing, here are a few concoctions to get you started:
Color |
Dye |
Mordant |
Mordant Instructions |
Dye Instructions |
Yellow |
Onion Skins |
Alum |
1 oz per gallon |
Simmer 1/2 hour |
Greenish |
Acorns |
Iron |
Cook in iron pot or add a chunk of iron when making the dyebath |
Soak acorns overnight then boil 2-1/2 hours Simmer cloth 1/2 hour |
Light Brown |
Tea |
None |
Dye: 1/4 to 1/2 pound of cheap tea to 5 gal water, boil 1/2 hour |
Simmer cloth 1/2 hour |
Dark Brown |
Walnut Hulls |
None |
2 gallon hulls in 5 gal water, boil 1 hour, let set overnight |
Simmer cloth 1/2 hour |