A CME WOOD-MAGIC, INC.

Preparing Your Surface Before You Apply Sealants!

joyner job Lack of proper  surface preparation is like not washing an old car before you wax it. House logs, including all other wood substrates, need to be cleaned, bare and dry before you apply sealants; otherwise you will end up doing the job over again, and experience premature failure of sealant protection. Warmer temperatures are always preferred for ideal working conditions, but not absolutely necessary. Best temperature ranges for application are between 45°º to 95°º°.

Stripping is not always required. There are fou r circumstances that may dictate when stripping is necessary:

If the old finish is  latex or acrylic based, make sure the stripper you use is designed to remove it. Many strippers will work well on oil-based stains and paints, but the latex composition will require a different type of stripper.

If the substrate has had a type of penetrating finish applied to it. or it has never had anything applied to it, or if the existing finish comes off easily, you can skip the stripping process.

 Normally log homes will collect dirt on the upper part of the log that curves in toward the house. This can easily rinsed away. Homes that do not have gutters, or have no vegetation next to the house, will usually have some heavy discoloration along the bottom where rainwater from the roof hits the ground and splashes back up on the surface. Corners are always another area of concern as they receive much more abuse from the weather. They will require more preparation than other areas of the home. Damaging effects from the sun will severely gray down the wood. If your substrate has any or all of these problems, don't worry ! They can be fixed !

Bleach and water with a little detergent has been a long standing recommendation for cleaning dirty wood. It can appear to work quickly and efficiently and its cheap. However, you no the old adage. " You get what you pay for. "

     
    CAUTION
    There are many drawbacks to bleaching wood. In fact, bleaching wood can actually damage the substrate, causing further work for the applicator and increasing costs of properly protecting the substrate.
  1. Bleach can actually destroy cellulose in the wood when left on the surface too long.
  2. Some researchers say that bleach inhabits the woods ability to hold a finish. Also  while it appears that the wood is getting cleaner, it still discolors the surface and gives the wood an unnatural washed out look.
  3. Most over the counter bleach solutions will not completely rinse off the substrate. Remember the last time you got bleach on your hands? It's hard to rinse off and wood will soak up a lot more than your hands will.
  4. Household type bleach only remains active for 15 minutes once it is mixed with water. If you still insist on making your own bleach solutions, you will  have to use it quickly and rinse often using lots of water.
There is a much better way to clean wood that is both inexpensive and user friendly! ULTRA-KLEEN AND NEW-WOOD . Ultra-Kleen uses a blend of cleaning compounds that will effectively remove mildew, mold, dirt and grime from the substrate. New -Wood is great for gray discolored wood including redwood and is needed when there are deep stains in the substrate. Both products contain buffers to minimize wood damage and surfactants to help wet the wood quickly allowing it to rinse off completely. This will minimize streaks, which can be difficult to remove.

If the wood is just discolored and has no significant areas of mildew, use a milder mixture of New-Wood. this product contains oxalic acid that brings out the natural tannins in t he wood and restores most of it's natural color. It is especially good for redwood and cedar. New-Wood is very effective in removing gray weathered stains, including nail, iron and water satins.

Be careful what ever you do, remember to protect your eyes and skin from contact with chemicals. READ all labels and application guidelines before you begin.
 
 
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