Deck and trunk release levers can sometimes be repaired. (1)

Do your passengers get hot or cold feet? the firewall hole for the air cond. Return line should be blocked with a piece of flat rubber-truck inner tube-silasticed to the firewall under the foam insulation behind the boot rug. (1)

Abs plastic pipe glue works for most of the plastic parts. PVC glue does not. (1) 

Check the quarter window air vent grille nuts as they vibrate loose and the grille falls off. Use a blob of silastic to hold them. Be gentle or the plastic will break (1)

If the spare tire is in the original position use a smaller tire and tie it down or use a wing nut and some running thread thru the center hole to prevent it from slipping into the tail light housing in the back grille and breaking the grill mounting studs. (1)

Chrome on the tail light housing peeling? sand off and paint semigloss black. Looks fine. There is a place in texas that advertises in hemmings which replates plastic parts. (1)

Left and right headlight buckets are interchangeable. The pivot shaft has to be removed and reversed if you need to install one from the other side. (1)

A little "P.M." On the window regulators will save these irreplaceable parts. Remove, clean and lubricate every two years. Late X-1/9's and 131's use the same basic design and might be adapted. (1)

So you will not get frustrated when installing interior door panels, slit then slip a piece of plastic sleeving over the lock rod and silastic vertically under the knob. (1)

Electric window lifts sound like they are straining? it could be the main drive bearing and dirt in the track. The bearing is not a sealed unit just shielded and traps water then rusts. Sealed units are available from your friendly bearing supply. The bearing is a lot cheaper than a new unit even if you could find one. 6201 Is the bearing no. (1)

Swap the seat cushions to equalize wear. (1)

Remove the ashtray/lighter/hazard & defrost switches from the center console and add decent gauges there. Those original gauges are just too strange and sometimes unreliable.(1)

Relocate the switches to the trim around the emergency brake if you have manual window regulators.(1)

Relocate the lighter somewhere else if you intend to use it to plug in a radar detector or emergency/map light.(1)

Replace the original steering wheel and shift knob with nice aftermarket ones.(1)

Add safety harnesses, the Scorpion gains a racecar appearance. Dave Shindle used TRW Sabelt harnesses and found the hardware has the same thread as the bolt holes in the body the original seatbelts used. Easy installation.(1)

If you opt for aftermarket seats, be very careful drilling the mounting holes. The coolant pipes under the car are offset towards the passenger's side and repairing one under the car takes a dictionary of four-letter words, some knuckle-skin and at least a couple days. Add a floor pedal set for that racecar appearance. (2)

Do not use American windshield glue on the rear view mirror. The Scorpion glue patch is much larger than U.S. ones and American glue will stress the windshield and crack it. Porsche has a large double sided glue pad that is supposed to work as will some double sticky tapes. (1)

Seat height by Tony Lloyd -- This does not apply to the vertically challenged amongst us! Anyone over 5’10’’ may have trouble with insufficient headroom. A little more can be obtained by removing the plastic blocks under the front of the seat runner. Some people prefer to do this anyway as it improves the seating position.

If the hood is rusting around the air grills, fix asap. The factory used a open pore foam between the two sheet metal pieces for anti squeak reasons and if they are not sealed by something it will absorb water and not dry out. If you can see it it's bad. Hot tank it. (1) 

Be sure all underside and door drain holes are open. Use an ice pick or screw driver to be sure. Stop all signs of rust asap. These cars rust even in Calif. (1)

Water behind the seat could be from leaking quarter windows or the rear window. Re-silastic or you might end up with structural rust like my parts car. (1)

The plastic coating on the belly pan, tunnel plate and the windshield header separates allowing rust to form between the steel and plastic. Hot tank, bead blast and repaint with rustoleum cold galvanize and undercoat or paint. (1)

Mr. Metric has 6mm body "plate nuts" for the underside panels. They aren't exact but can be adapted. (1)

Secure the plastic air tunnel duct to the underside of the body with plumbers tape to prevent loss after you hit a speed bump with the front valence panel. The duct is required as too much rain water gets into the tunnel from the front wheels if it's missing. (1)

Rust protection. Regularly check the seals to all windows as they tend to leak allowing water in to rust out the floorboards. The glued in glass is also meant as part of the structure of the car. Undercoat the entire bottom and inside the wheel wells by removing the front wheel well's plastic liner, apply the undercoat and then reinstall the liner. If your Scorpion does not have the plastic liners, find a pair to install. I believe the liners are the reason the front wheel arches don't rust as terrible as the rear which came from the factory without liners. Make certain the drain hoses from the area where the wiper motor and brake/clutch reservoir bottles are located do not get clogged. I recommend removing the aluminum board from above the exhaust area as they tend to hold gobs of water. Lastly, get a quality paint job as paint technology is better than that original paint and will offer better protection. I sprayed my Scorpion with zinc chromate prior to paint. (2)