I've always been in search of the perfect jacket pattern - a higher armhole that makes the body look slimmer, lots of seams for fine tuning the fit, and a front that would button up high enough to allow for a skimpy top for evening, or a turtleneck for winter. The welt pockets are placed so that they don't cross any of the front seams, making alterations across the abdomen possible. They are angled to lead the eye from the waist to a narrower hip.

The long front seam elongates the body, calls attention to the center of the body (making it narrower), and incorporates that wonderful neckline dart (for shape) and the body dart (that nips in at the waist to create a waist): it makes the collar shape beautifully, and all you have to do is stitch one extra seam instead of marking and sewing two darts on each front.

The newsletter of The Fashion Sewing Group has included variations for this classic design including different necklines, pockets, and even a zipper front. The SewImagination Workbook that is being published Winter of 2004/2005, will contain all of these creative changes to enable you to copy the latest styles, or back issues can be purchased. There is a $3.00 flier that includes a template to change this pattern into a slight v-neck and shorter. This pattern continues to be a best-seller in the collection and has received great reviews in leading sewing publications.

"The pattern is reliable and well thought out...I always had trouble with sleeves but this one is well cut, fits beautifully, and went in like a dream. The welt pocket was easy and looks great on my first try! It's my absolute favorite that I can always count on to make me look better than I deserve..." raves one fan among hundreds.

Check the Fabric and Garments Fall and Spring page for some suggestions for variations of this pattern.


Wool or rayon crepe, tweeds, boucle, lightweight boiled wool, menswear fabrics, linen and linen-like fabrics, silk duppioni, wool flannel, doubleknit, textured woolens and wool blends, velvet


  • Shoulder pads
  • Five 3/4" buttons for the front
  • Six 1/2" buttons for the sleeves (of course, you can vary the sizes to suit the wearer or special buttons)

Armo® Weft or similar for facings, and collars; So Sheer™ or Textured Weft™ for front pieces and/or the entire body if the fabric requires it

Yardage Requirements:
All yardages given are given for "with nap" layout.
Sizes 8-12

45" fabric - 3 1/2 yd.
60" fabric - 2 3/8 yd.
45" lining - 2 3/8 yd.
size 14
45" fabric - 3 3/4 yd.
60" fabric - 2 5/8 yd.
45" lining - 2 1/2 yd.
sizes 16 & 18
45" fabric - 3 7/8 yd.
60" fabric - 2 3/4 yd.

45" lining - 2 1/2 yd  

Back View:

Garment Measurements







Finished length from base of neck

29 5/8

29 7/8

30 1/8

30 3/8

30 5/8

30 7/8

Finished width at lower edge



45 1/2

47 1/2

49 3/4


Finished width at full hip

41 1/2

43 1/2





Finished width at full bust



39 1/2

41 1/2

43 1/2

45 1/2

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Copyright © 1999. Nancy Erickson Consulting