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Cities of Bali


While it's possible to visit Ubud in just a day, such a short trip would barely touch the surface of this extraordinary village. An interesting mélange of rural Balinese life and modern services co-exist here. Only 60 minutes from Ngurah Rai airport, Ubud is close to many of central Bali's major sights. Despite the fact that visitors may outnumber residents during peak periods, Ubud retains the atmosphere of a small country community and, in contrast to the hassle of Kuta, the pace of life is very relaxed. It's a great place to tour on foot or by bicycle and there's a wide range of facilities for tourists of all budgets, as well as beaches 10 km away. For those who enjoy being close to natural beauty, yet within easy reach of creature comforts, Ubud is ideal.
Prices in US dollars. AC = Air conditioning. Telephone code is 0361.


The main crossroads in front of the Puri Saren palace is the "navel" of Ubud-its cultural and historical focal point. The main street is lined with restaurants, hotels, shops and galleries, stretching all the way from the T-junction at the eastern end of Ubud to the Campuhan Bridge in the west. Small lanes lined with home stays, warungs and Balinese compounds extend north and south from the main road.

Jl. Monkey Forest, branching south from the middle of Ubud is lined with hotels, restaurants, artists' studios, and boutiques for a distance of some 2 km. A parallel road just to the east through Padang tegal is similar, though less congested. Away from these main streets, Ubud is still relatively quiet.

Roads radiate west out of the main town to Campuhan and Payangan, south to Pengosekan and east to Goa Gajah. Local bernos can be flagged down in the daytime on the main road. Ubud to Campuhan, for example, costs Rp1000.


For information on performances, transport schedules, temple festivals, and special activities, inquire at the Ubud Tourist Information Center, across from the Pura Desa (village temple).


Ubud is 60 minutes by car from the airport and southern beach resort areas and 40 minutes from Sanur. Taxis from the airport cost Rp90,000 (AC). Look for the booth at the airport: turn right after you leave customs. Alternatively, charter (and bargain for) a bemo outside the airport for about Rp75,000.

From Denpasar, take a bemo from Kereneng Terminal to Batubulan Terminal, then transfer to Ubud (Rp. 1,000). Chartering a bemo from Denpasar costs about $9. Alternatively, hop on one of the many shuttle buses which depart Kuta for Ubud at 8.30, 10 and 11.30 am, 1, 2.30 and 4pm ($4). Contact Perama Tour, JI. Legian, Kuta.


Although it's easy to get around Ubud on foot, you may choose to rent a mountain bike to save time and effort. Mountain bikes can be rented everywhere for $2/day. Motorbikes (100cc) cost $5.50/day. A Suzuki jeep costs $20 to $30 daily; cheaper by the week or month. Look for signs along all main roads.

Buy shuttle bus tickets to Kuta (Rp. 10,000) and Candidasa (Rp. 15,000) from the many trave! agencies in town. For a full schedule, contact Peramaswara Tour & Travel, Jl. Hanoman. Shuttles to Sanur, Kuta and the airport depart at 8.30, 10 and 11.30 am, 12:30, 3.30, 5.30, 6.30, and 7.30 pm. Direct Kuta shuttles depart Ubud the same hours. The shuttle to Lombok via Kuta leaves at 6 am.


Ubud's accommodations have gone dramatically up market recently-hot water, AC, telephones and swimming pools are now readily available. Two of Bali's most exclusive hotels, Amandari and Four Seasons are also found here.

Decide on the area you want, then look around. Small hotels in the intermediate range
line JI. Raya Ubud and JI. Monkey Forest and offer lovely bungalows set in gardens with swimming pools for $20-$50/night. Balinese-style home stays provide charming rooms with private bathroom, fan and hot water for $5-$15. Artists invite people into their homes to study or just to experience Balinese hospitality. All are easily reached on foot from the town center.

Travel out of Ubud in almost any direction and you'll find little home stays and bungalows tucked in among the rice fields, some with dramatic vistas. If you stay out in the rice paddies, it's handy to take along a mosquito net and flashlight'

Peliatan and Pengosekan, both just south Of Ubud, are cheaper and quieter. Penestanan and Campuhan to the west are lovely villages. You can see farmers working the fields; the place is lusciously green with small bungalows, shops and restaurants sprouting up everywhere.

Sayan and Kedewatan, further to the west, offer luxury rooms with great views up to the volcanoes and down the Ayung River to the coast. Saba, on the coast south of Blahbatuh, Andong on the road north to Tampaksiring and Goa Gajah also boast hotels for the more affluent traveller.

Most rooms have private bathrooms and rates include breakfast. Budget hotels offer toast, coffee/tea and fruit salad for breakfast.

Budget (under $25)

These are Balinese home stays in family compounds or rooms in the paddies built for tourists. .Simple and clean, many have attached bathrooms, hot water and fans. A simple breakfast is always included and children are welcome. Home stays are clustered in well defined areas: JI. Bisma, JI. Hanoman, JI. Kajeng, JI. Monkey Forest and JI. Tebesaya. As there is little difference in the level of comfort, the choice is really between experiencing the intimacy of a family compound or the daily rhythms of the rice fields. For cheaper places and longer stays, look around Peliatan, Penestanan, or Nyuh Kuning.

Central Ubud and to the West

Kajeng JI. Kajeng (the lane beside the lotus pond, past Hans Snel), 12 rooms. A lovely surprise: facing a huge lily pond stocked with carp. Overlooks dense foliage. A river roars through the deep ravine nearby. $13-$15.

Penestanan Bungalows, Jl. Penestanan. 12 rooms. Climb the steep stairs on the left off JI. Campuhan, 100 m past the Campuhan bridge and follow the sign. Lovely garden setting with stunning views over the rice paddies. Restaurant, hot water and a swimming pool. Friendly, helpful staff. $30 fan, plus 10% tax.

Monkey Forest Road/Padangtegal

Matahari JI. Jembawan, behind the post office. 7 rooms near a deep ravine looking out onto a bamboo forest. A Japanese-style hot tub is available for $10/person. Rooms with hot water, $11.

Pande Permai JI. Monkey Forest. 24 rooms along the river overlooking the forest. Two-story brick and bamboo building. Hot water and fan, $25.

Wahyu Bungalows JI. Monkey Forest. 7 tidy rooms with funky outdoor bathrooms in a peaceful setting. $15 including breakfast.

Peliatan / Pengosekan / Nyuh Kuning

Ball Breeze Bungalows JI. Pengosekan. 10 lumbung style bungalows. Bedroom upstairs, toilet and sitting room downstairs. Well designed. $20.

Family House Jl. Tebesaya 39, Peliatan. 10 rooms with ceiling fan, 8 rooms have hot water. In a Balinese family compound on a quieter street than most. Great breakfasts! $10-$25.

Gucci Quest House JI. Pengosekan (at T-junction of Peliatan and Pengosekan). Lovely setting in rice fields far off main road. Three separate bungalows with outdoor bathrooms, ceiling fans, mosquito nets. Two family units with two bedrooms, fully equipped kitchen and vast living area and hot water. $14-$26, family units $45-$65.

Ketut Madre JI. Raya Ubud, Banjar Kalah, Peliatan. 8 rooms at the end of a lane opening onto the rice fields. Madre is a renaissance man: a renowned painter, a topeng dancer and wayang afficiando. A favorite of the culture crowd. Run down, but charming. Hot water. $8-$9.

Nyoman Astoria Bungalows Banjar Kalah, Peliatan. 8 rooms off a family compound. Hot water, fan, free transport to and from Ubud. $8-$10.

Pondok Saraswati Lod Tunduh village, 6 kms south of Ubud. 6 rooms in Balinese bungalows. If you want peace and quiet in a pleasant setting, this is one place to come. Hot water showers and mosquito nets. Simple furnishings, but the view and the breeze from the upstairs rooms are refreshing. $30.

Rona JI. Sukma 23, Desa Tebesaya. 12 clean, comfortable rooms with open-air bathrooms, double beds and mosquito nets. Restaurant attached. Huge library, laundry service, and free luggage storage. $10-$15.

Moderate ($25-$50)

This category has the widest selection and the best value. Most hotels have pools and phones. Reservations recommended during the high seasons in July/August and December/January. Rates include breakfast and are subject to 21% tax and service. Rates may vary out of season.

Central Ubud

Nick's Pension & Restaurant JI. Monkey Forest. Also accessible through their restaurant on JI. Bisma. 21 quiet cottages on a terraced hill and bridging a stream. $25-$55 per bungalow.

West of Ubud

Ananda Cottages Jl. Campuhan, Campuhan. 45 rooms set in rice fields near the Neka Museum. Ponds stocked with fish provide a tranquil atmosphere. Older clientele, families with children. Swimming pool in the middle of rice fields. $40-$55, suite $200.

Melati Cottages, Penestanan. 20 rooms, 150 m along a path from the road (behind Mumi's Restaurant). Rice field setting. Swimming pool. $40 plus 15% tax and service.

Sayan Terrace J1. Raya Sayan, Kedewatan. 10 rooms. The newest rooms have teak parquet floors, wrap-around windows, hot water, and great views across the Ayung River. Rooms $55, villas $135.

Wisata Cottages J1. Sanggingan, Campuhan. 25 bungalows on the ridge above the Campuhan River. Glorious views. $30-$70.

North of Ubud

Klub Kokos Bangkiang Sidem village, 30-minute walk from Ubud (also accesible by vehicles). 7 rooms. Nestled far off the beaten track. Balinese-style bungalows with kitchen and garden bathrooms. Run by the Balinese painter krishna Sudharsana, and his Australian wife, Cathy, the profits from Klub Kokos (also a gallery and cafe) are used to help the village, particularly in the areas of health and education. $40-$45.

South of Ubud

Artini 2 Jl. Hanoman, Padangtegal. 24 rooms set in lush garden with manicured lawns. All rooms with hot water, fan and breakfast; 3 rooms have AC. Large pool with restaurant attached. Rooms toward the back are quiet and private. $30-$40 fan, $55 AC, plus 10% tax.

Dewi Sri Bungalows Jl. Hanoman, Padangtegal, opposite the Dirty Duck. 20 bungalows. Unusual furniture and artifacts add to the charm. Friendly service and a cozy restaurant by the pool. $30 duplex bungalow with fan, $55 AC, $135 for private 3-bedroom house with kitchen.

Garden View Cottages Nyuh Kuning. 14 rooms facing the doe paddies within sight of the Monkey Forest. Large rooms with ceramic tile floors, mosquito nets, overhead fan, hot water, and huge verandahs. 4 of the units are two-story bungalows with three beds. $40-$45.

Okawsti's Jl. Monkey Forest. PO Box 158. 19 rooms with attached bath and fans. Swimming pool and restaurant. A nostalgic favorite. lbu Okawati opened the first restaurant in Ubud.$38-$55.

Pertiwi Bungalows J1. Monkey Forest. PO Box 110, Ubud. 38 large rooms with attached bath. Swimming pool set in spacious grounds; great space for children to play. Deluxe rooms have AC and huge verandahs with luscious, leafy outlook. Good for families. $45-$90.

These hotels have either individual bungalows or two-story buildings of four units, each with fan or AC and a bathroom with hot water. Most have swimming pools, restaurants, and pleasant views of gardens, valleys or rice fields. Some have phones and TV. Credit cards accepted. Prices include tax and service. Many are located away from the center of town, so a car is recommended.

East of Ubud

Bamboo JI. Raya Ubud, between Padangtegal and Tebesaya. A delightful cottage hidden away in it's own private world. A path that clings to the side of a ravine snakes down to-the river Where a green tiled pool awaits. Pavilions on different levels are enticements to relax in a cocoon of tropical lushness. The spacious bedroom, adjoined by a huge bathroom, opens onto a private terrace. $95.

South of Ubud

Alam Indah Nyuh Kuning. 10 rooms. Run by the Cafe Wayan family, this small, exquisite hotel is a gem. All rooms have hot running water; 2 with AC, rest have ceiling fan. Rooms are large and airy, and most have rice field views. Family suite has upstairs bedroom, two bathrooms. Superb, pampering service. Free transport to and from Ubud. Swimming pool. $55-$105.

Tiing Gading Bungalows Jl. Tebesaya, Peliatan. On a 100 m path off the main road. it 5 duplex bungalows (10 rooms) scattered in a manicured garden setting. Quiet, serene, enchanting. Lush tropical forest outlook. Swimming pool, restaurant. $70-$75.

North and West of Ubud

Merpati Inn Jl. Raya Andong, 1.5 km to the northeast on the road to Pujung. 21 rooms. Spacious and spotlessly clean. Restaurant, swimming pool and complimentary shuttle service. $68 fan, $79 AC, $135 cottage.

Murni's House Banjar Ubud Kelod, Ubud Heights, on the path leading from the aqueduct. 4 rooms. Suitable for families. Catering from Murni's Warung. $70, separate two bedroom house $125.

Hotel Tjampuhan Jl. Raya Ubud, Campuhan, across the bridge. 63 rooms. Overlooking the Campuhan River and temple. Spring fed swimming pool and tennis court. Built on the site of Walter Spies' compound in the 1930's. Many steps! Agung rooms $70-$97, Raja rooms $116.

Ulun Ubud Cottages, Jl. Sanggingan, 1.5 km west of Ubud. PO Box 3, Ubud. 23 rooms in bungalows strung along a steep descent to the Campuhan River. Swimming pool and gigantic outdoor stone chess board. Gallery on premises. $50-$65 standard, $55-$75 studio bungalow, $80-$100 suite, $120 family unit.

First Class ($75-$100)

Bali Spirit Jl. Nyuh Kuning. 19 bungalows, two with kitchens. Once tranquil setting above the river, overlooking a local bathing spot, but a new road and bridge have been built right next to the hotel. Swimming pool and two outdoor spas with facilities for masseurs and beauty treatments. Ubud's first health spa! Spacious bar with a restaurant serving California-inspired food. $105-$155.

Padma Indah Cottages JI. Penestanan. PO Box 190, Ubud. 10 rooms. Two-story lumbung style bungalows with marble floors and outdoor bathrooms. Mini-bar and telephone in all rooms. Uninterrupted panorama of rice paddies on the south side. Huge swimming pool. Art gallery attached. $100-$110, family cottage $190.

Villa Bukit Ubud JI. Raya Sanggingan. PO Box 20, Ubud, behind Neka Museum. 24 rooms. Fantastic views down the Campuhan River. Spacious rooms with marble floors, bathtubs, and mini bars; most AC. Swimming pool and restaurant. $100. Two bedroom suites with sitting rooms, TV and panoramic views, $235.

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Luxury ($100 and up)

Spacious Balinese inspired bungalows with AC, mini-bar, private pool and balconies overlooking a private garden with a view. Airport transfers are usually included. Major credit cards accepted. Prices quoted do not include tax and service.

Amandari on Sayan Heights overlooking the Ayung River, about 3 km west of Ubud, 30 private pavilions. Designed by Australian architect Peter Muller to be the ultimate hotel in Bali. Each bungalow is nestled in its own private walled compound and several have private swimming pools. Service is exemplary. Won the Best Hotel in the World Award in 1997. $460-$1,60.

Banyan Tree JI. Tegal Padang, Banjar Nagih. PO Box 77, Ubud. 58 rooms. 2 km northeast of Ubud on the road to Pujung. Spacious rooms with marble floors, detailing in tropical woods and views to the Petanu River. Large freeform swimming pool, two restaurants. Pavilion $200, villa $300, deluxe pavilion $400 with Jacuzzi, $500 with pool, deluxe/royal villa $600.

Four Seasons On the Sayan ridge south of the Amandari. 47 rooms. Part of the worldwide chain. Standard $375, Royal Sayan Villa $3,500 (3-story villa with its own swimming pool).

Ibah Luxury Villa Campuhan. 12 Alias offering every amenity in luxurious and stylish surroundings. Saltwater swimming pool, restaurant, library, CDs and a friendly smile. $195-$250.

Komanaka Resort Right in the heart of Ubud on J1. Monkey Forest and the perfect base from which to explore the town's shops and markets. Set in lush and rambling gardens with a beautiful swimming pool. Rooms from $135 and $230 for a pool villa.

Kupu Kupu Barong Desa Kedewatan, PO Box 7, Ubud, on the road to Payangan, about 4 km northwest of Ubud. 19 bungalows. Dramatic views overlooking the terraced hills above the Ayung River. Two swimming pools, restaurant and tennis court. Does not cater to small children. Deluxe $335, luxury $405, suite $699.

Pita Maha PO Box 198, Ubud. 24 traditional bali. Set in the upland hills above Campuhan. Incredible views of a river gorge. Each bungalow has its own wading pool, hot water, AC, and the utmost privacy. $250-$400.

Tanah Gajah JI. Raya Goa Gajah. PO Box 71, Tengkulak, near Goa Gajah, 3 km east of Ubud. 10 rooms. Owned by a famous Jakarta architect, Hadiprana. Extensive grounds laid out with great attention to detail. Restful setting with huge pool, tennis court and small gym. $225-$350, presidential suite $600. Prior booking is essential, as this is more a private residence than a hotel.

The Chedi Ubud Desa Melinggih, Kelod, Payangan, Gianyar. 60 rooms and suites. Tranquil secluded hillside retreat. Rich wood interiors, private gardens. $200-$230 deluxe, $350-$380 suite.

Villa Indah Kedewatan. PO Box 1, Ubud, 4 km from Ubud. 6 suites in three villas. Each suite has a kitchen and private staff dedicated to serve. Meals prepared to order and served on wrap-around living terrace. Masseuse available. A peaceful escape. Airport transfers available. $120.

Wake de Ume Sakti village, 1 km north of Ubud. 15 rooms and bungalows. Set in lush rice fields, a delightful change from the hustle and bustle of town. Terraced swimming pool, shuttle bus to Ubud. $115-$150, suites $190.


Ubud has an incredible variety of places to eat. The simple warungs serving nasi campur and satay are still around, but so is everything else. Today Ubud offers a choice ranging from American hamburgers and steaks, country-style Japanese, and sophisticated Italian pastas all the way to haute cuisine with worldwide acclaim. A few restaurants stand heads and shoulders above the crowd for the quality and the originality of their food. Those on a budget can find the local warungs, although they're fast being replaced by more upscale eateries. The following is a sampler of the area's better restaurants.

Central Ubud

Ary's Warung J1. Raya Ubud, opposite Pura Desa. The place to see and be seen. Nostalgic atmosphere with marble-topped tables and sepia-tinted photos. Creative menu with a wide range of appetizers and entrees: potato skins, Waldorf salad, chicken ranchero, and coconut pie. Extensive drinks menu, including wine and champagne. Sit upstairs and watch Ubud go by. Pricey.

Batan Waru JI. Dewi Sita (south of the soccer field). Best place in town for breakfast check out the ginger pancakes and the Florida lime pie! Extensive Indonesian menu without the fire (if you want it hot, request it). This is definitely Yuppieville. Opens at 9 am.

Bumbu Indian and Vegetarian Restaurant Jl. Suweta, north of the Wantilan community hall. The specialties of the house can be sampled on Saturday evenings with their vegetarian buffet, $5. Try the exotic rose petal yogurt drink.

Cafe Lotus Jl. Raya Ubud. While still one of the most beautiful settings in Ubud (in front of the royal family's clan temple and a huge lotus garden pond), the food and service are lackluster. Homemade pastas, fabulous desserts. Pricey.

Casa Luna. Two floors of spacious dining with an exotic menu combining old favorites (Jungle Jim chicken and Indian potato masala) with new taste treats like focaccio, Amalfi tuna salad and paella. Just inside the entry is a bakery with fresh baked breads and cakes. Nightly movies in the back.

Griya's BBQ JI. Raya Ubud, west of the market. Sit up in the back over looking a garden, sip an ice cold beer and munch some of the best peanuts in town. Griya's is famous for its barbequed tuna, chicken and beef, and with good reason!

Jogjakarta Café JI. Monkey Forest, south of the soccer field. Fresh seafood grilled right there. Tell them to hold off on the butter if you're averse to the grease. Super cheap; nightly movies.

Mumbul's Jl. Raya Ubud, west of the market. An ice cream parlor over looking a ravine featuring an open-air patio. The obvious place to bring kids as the menu caters to young and old alike. Extensive selection of burgers and Indonesian favorites and a special kids' menu. Top it all off with a capucino freeze ice cream sundae. The Sunday brunch is an Ubud institution, less than $10.

Sai Sai Bar Jl. Monkey Forest, south of the soccer field. The hang-out for the local guys. Full bar, nightly movies.

Tut Mak Warung Kopi JI. Dewi Sita, south of the soccer field. A hang-out for the expert crowd, the salads here can't be beat and some of the best coffee in Bali is roasted here. Try the moist orange pound cake while sipping an iced caffe latte.

West of Ubud

Amandari, Sayan Romantically overlooking the Ayung River, with superb food and service. The menu is the attraction: rack of lamb, breast of duck and seasonal seafood are all acclaimed. The desserts are divine; the cr6me brul6e and chocolate cake are outstanding. Reservations required. Major credit cards accepted-you'll need one!

Beggar's Bush Campuhan, above the bridge. An English pub in Ubud... why not? Icy cold draft beer and a convivial ambience. Victor Mason, historian, bird-watcher supremo, author and raconteur, often entertains the congregation late into the night. Highly original menu with emphasis on surf'n'turf staples.

Bridge Café Campuhan end of the bridge. With a new cook in tow, the specialty of the house is pizza.' Great view and chic interior.

Kupu Kupu Barong Kedewatan. Fabulous view from the upstairs bar: the perfect place for a romantic sunset cocktail. Unfortunately the food is average. Murni's Warung An old favorite, on the Ubud side of the Campuhan bridge. This is where the eclectic menu mix of American and Balinese favorites started in the late 1970's. The hamburger has stood the test of time and the sate, gada-gado and grilled fish are still delectable. The lower dining areas offer tranquility, with only the sound of the river to disturb the peace. Great desserts, notably the banana cream pie, strawberry yogurt pie and poppy seed cake.

North of Ubud

Kampung Café Ceking, Tegallalang. The latest in nouveau Indonesian cuisine, this gem of a place overlooks the incredible terraced rice fields of Ceking. The pastas and salads are divine and the specials of the day will knock your socks off with their innovativeness and freshness of ingredients. The chocolate brownies will keep you going all day. Service is slow, but the price is right. Klub Kokos Café Bangkiang Sidem. A pleasant 30 minutes stroll from Ubud. Go to the Ibah Hotel, follow the "going to the Hill" sign and walk along a scenic ridge high up between two river valleys. Great place to have a drink while hiking around the hills.

South of Ubud

Café Arma JI. Pengosekan. Specializing in Italian food (the chef worked at a five-star hotel in Jakarta for years). Try the fried squid, the seafood pastas and the pizzas. Full bar. Part of the ARMA Museum complex.

Café Wayan Jl. Monkey Forest, One of the best places in town to eat. Ibu Wayan has trained in California and Thailand and the menu reflects this diversity. Specials nightly and Sunday night is a Balinese buffet for under $10. Packed at dinner, not so crowded at lunch. Death by Chocolate Cake is just that; other desserts are on the dry side.

Dian's JI. Monkey Forest. Good Javanese and Chinese fare at a modest price. Open late.

Dirty Duck Diner Padangtegal. Offers a highly creative, cheeky menu-try the Pita Hay worth or Tutor O'Neal. The specialty is crispy fried duck, a variation of a traditional Javanese recipe. Low tables with cushions create a cozy atmosphere and the food is wholesome. Local ex-pats swear by the salads, pastas and vegetarian dishes. Daily specials and a great selection of desserts.

Ibu Rai JI. Monkey Forest, opposite the soccer fid. Sea bass with herb sauce only $5. Sate is an old stand-by. Food uniformly good.

Kagemusha/Kokila Café Padangtegal. A traditional Japanese-style inn specializing in home cooked food. Great bento box-lunch as well as tonkatsu, yakitod and udon noodle soups. On a cool evening, the hot sake is fortifying, as is the Japanese green tea, o-cha.

Kokokan Club JI. Bima, Pengosekan. Mainly Thai food with a full bar downstairs and an elegant restaurant upstairs. Part of the ARMA complex. I ob Lane A. Wanara Wana (Monkey Forest Road) Newly renovated, the restaurant offers Balinese cuisine, fresh seafood, pizza and home-made pasta. Overlooks the nearby rice fields.

Ubud Raya Padangtegal. Japanese and Javanese specialties. Wholesome food done simply and well. The pumpkin or miso soups as starters compliment the tempura teriyaki and sukiyaki entrees.

Warung Teges J1. Raya Peliatan, as it opens onto fields leading to Mas. Serves either nasi campur made with pork or a nasi ayam, for $3. Clean and simple, a favorite with local taxi drivers.

East of Ubud

Bali Buddha Bagelry Opposite the main post office in Ubud. Ubud's first bagel shop with the most outrageous murals on the bakery across the street. After you pick up your mail, sit down with a cold drink (like tamarind fizz or a yogurt smoothie), a bagel smeared with sundries tomatoes and cream cheese and read a magazine. left behind by another patron. Friday night poetry readings and a bulletin board. Local deliveries made.


Ubud's nightlife has taken a turn for the better in recent years with a small but lively scene establishing itself, as more and more late night bars continue to open. There's no better place to start your evening than at

  • Naughty Nuri's on Jl. Campuan (opposite the Neka Museum). A busy local hangout with lots of character. The relaxed atmosphere may well be due to the epic Martinis but the real drawing card is the roadside barbecue and the famous ribs.
  • For a laidback drinking atmosphere try the tiny cocktail bar at Ary's Warung (see 'Dining') or the Putra Bar on JI. Monkey Forest which has live reggae and is open until midnight, as is the casual Sai Sai bar across the road.
  • The Jazz Café on JI. Sukma offers live jazz on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights, from 7pm. It attracts a nice crowd of people and is the perfect place to drink while snacking off the menu.
  • The Funky Monkey on Monkey Forest Road is the place to be seen late on, playing the latest tunes and serving fabulous cocktails to a young and chic clientele.


There are performances daily. Check with the Ubud Tourist Information (UTI) for changes or special events. All performances begin at 7.30 pm, unless otherwise noted. Tickets are around $5.50.

Sunday. Children's Barong dance at Puri Lukisan Museum, 10 am; Kecak, Fire and Trance dance at Padang Tegal, 7 pm; Kecak Fire and Trance dance at Bona, 6.30 pm (leave at 6 pm from UTI); Shadow Puppet Play at Oka Kartini, 8 pm; Mahabharata Ballet at Ubud Palace; Women's gamelan with child dancers, Peliatan.

Monday. Kecak, Pura Desa Junjungan, 6.30 pm (free transport leave at 6.30 pm from UTI); Legong dance at Ubud Palace; Kecak Fire and Trance dance at Bona; Ciwa Ratri dance with Begyung gamelan at Pura Dalem Puri; Barong and Keris dance, Jaba Pura Padang Kerta, Padang Tegal Kelod, 7 pm.

Tuesday. Shadow Puppet play with Calonarang story at Kertha Accommodations in Ubud, 8 pm; Mahabharata dance at Teges village; Ramayana Ballet at Ubud Palace; Spirit of Bali (various dances) at Jaba Pura Desa Kutuh; Kecak Fire and Trance dance at Jaba Pura Padang Kerta, Padang Tegal Kelod.

Wednesday. Shadow Puppet Play at Oka Kartini, 8 pm; Legong and Barong dance at Ubud Palace; Legong and Tiger Barong dance at Banjar Tengah, Peliatan; Kecak Fire and Trance dance, Padang Tegal, 7 pm; Kecak Fire and Trance dance at Bona, 6.30 pm (leave UTI at 6 pm).

Thursday. Gabor dance at Ubud Palace; Kecak at Puri Agung Peliatan; Calonarang at Mawang Village, 7 pm (leave UTI at 6.30 pm).

Friday. Barong dance at Ubud Palace, 6.30 pm; Legong dance at Puri Dalem Puri (Tirta Sari troupe) (free transport from UTI at 6.45 pm); Kecak Fire and Trance dance at Pura Dalem Ubud.

Saturday. Shadow Puppet play of Calonarang story at Kertha Accommodations in Ubud, 8 pm; Legong dance at Ubud Palace; Calonarang dance at Mawang village, 7 pm (leave LITI at 6.30); Legong dance at Puri Dalem Puri (leave LITI at 6.45 pm), Kecak Fire and Trance dance at Padang Tegal, 7 pm.

Every full and new moon at the ARMA Open Stage in Pengosekan is the "new" (read 1970's) kecak choreographed by Sardono Kusuma, 7 pm-8 pm. The night before the new and full moon is the Legong Trance dance by the Tista Andir troupe from West Bali. This is authentic trance in a commercial venue-be forewarned that it gets rather violent (keris stabbing) and might be a bit too much for children. 7 pm.

The Barong dance is held in Batubulan daily at 9.30 am. The most classical of Balinese dance-dramas, Gambuh, is held in Batuan village on the Ist and 15th of every month, 7 pm9 pm, $6.


Most museums and galleries open at 8 am and many remain open on demand through the evening. Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) JI. Bima, Pangosekan. Phone 974168. Entrance fee under a dollar. This monumental structure houses the private collection of highly regarded collector, Agung Rai. See originals by famous painters such as Spies, Bonnet, Hofker, Affandi, and others. Rotating exhibits. Bookshop, library an shop on premises. Hours: 9 am-6 pm.

Bamboo Gallery Jl. Raya Ubud, east of Neka. A small air conditioned gallery tastefully decorated and specializing in contemporary Indonesian art.

Lempad Gallery JI. Raya Ubud. Home and studio of Bali's most famous artist, Lempad, who died in 1978 at the age of 116. The gallery is now run by his great grandchildren.

Munut Gallery On the main road, near the turnoff to Peliatan. Run by I Wayan Munut, a pupil of Rudolf Bonnet. Contemporary Indonesian and Balinese art. Museum Puri Luklean. Founded under the auspices the royal family in 1953, the collection represents the evolution of Balinese painting from its inception in the 1930's until the present. Originally catalogued by Rudolf Bonnet, the current trustees have maintained the same standard through a continuous program of acquisitions. Tranquil setting in lovely gardens. Small admission fee. 8 am-4 pm.

Neka Gallery Opposite the post office. Home of Bali's most foremost collector, Suteja Neka.

Neka Museum Sangginan, on the main road 1.5 km west of Ubud. Neka is Ubud's foremost art dealer and patron. Four traditional buildings house Neka's private collection by Bali's most revered artists: Lempad, Spies, Covarrubias, I Bagus Made and Made Wianta. Open 9 am-4 pm. Entrance fee under $1.

Rudana Museum Main road going from Mas to Peliatan. Nice collection of contemporary Indonesian art housed in a monumental marble building.

Seniwati Gallery of Art by Women JI. Sriwedari 213, Banjar Taman and main street of Ubud. Although displaying works by women world-wide, the focus is on female Balinese artists. Only one of its kind in Southeast Asia. 8 am-5 pm.


Ubud offers a surprisingly sophisticated range of shopping opportunities. Take your time and browse in a leisurely fashion.


If you are seriously in the market for paintings, first look in the major galleries to see what is available for how much, then seek out the artists in their own homes. Much of the fun is meeting them and discussing the nature of things over a cup of Balinese coffee. The best known galleries are Neka, Agung Rai, Agung Raka, Komaneka, Munut, Rudana, and Nyoman Sumertha. Outside Ubud itself, the best painters are found in Pengosekan, Pelialtan, Penestanan and Batuan. A partial list of highly regarded local artists: Antonio Blanco, recently deceased long-term resident, immortalized as self-styled "Dali of Bali," Campuhan. Ketut Budiyana, JI. Hanoman. Wayan Durus, classic style, JI. Tebesaya, Peliatan. Ngurah K K, refined "Young Artist" style, Campuhan. Hans Snel, Dutch painter known for his abstract style, JI. Kajeng.


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Textile and Clothing

Jani's on JI. Monkey Forest has a wide range of high quality ikat textiles; from the archipelago. Argasoka specializes in collector's quality Javanese batiks. Kunang Kunang has two stores, one near Mumi's and the other below the Pura Dalem, offering silver and antiques, clothes, textiles and collectibles. Uluwatu have a boutique on JI. Monkey Forest that showcases their beautifully crafted Balinese lace clothing and linen.

Get great presents for kids at Lulu's, Noe and Pelangi, all on JI. Monkey Forest and kids'clothes at Gayatri at Ubud Kelod. At Kamar Sutra, a small jewel of a boutique next to Cafe Wayan you can find pricey but chic clothing and shoes. Aumsari at the intersection in Andong is an innovative retailer with a range of quality items.

It's surprising how few designers are using local textiles to make clothing (except for the local one size/style fits all rayon silk screens). The few places where you can get the real stuff are Gego for Balinese ikat made into smart clothes and cool ties, The Wiz (next to Mumbul's Ice Cream Parlour) for batik and ikat women's clothing for all sizes, Bamboo near the Post Office for ikat shirts and kimonos, and Naga Studios in Andong for American designer Nadya's one of a kind creations (she makes her own fabrics as well). For bulk fabric, try Wardhani's on JI. Monkey Forest, just south of the soccer field. You can also buy ready-made temple clothing here. Ubud Market in the center of town offers the usual selection of T-shirts, shoes, sarongs and cheap, readymade clothes. Try to time your visit to coincide with the produce market held every three days great bustle and activity! For house wares, such as pillows, bed sheets and the like, Casa Lina on JI. Raya Ubud, west of the market will suit you.


Purpa Silver has a range of designer jewelry made on the premises on JI. Monkey Forest. At the south end of JI. Monkey Forest is Seraphim, an air conditioned shop with exclusive designs of gold and silver jewelry with precious and semi-precious gemstones. At the other end of JI. Monkey Forest is Bead N Bali, where you can make up your own earrings and necklaces with beads and handmade findings.


Wooden handicrafts of all imaginable sizes, shapes and colors are available from Dewa Windia, west of the huge banyan tree in Peliatan. If you want to buy at lower prices, head up the hill to Tegallalang and Pujung, northeast of Ubud. A bewildering number of shops along the way, mostly exporters, invite inspection. Don't miss the Pasar Seni Sukawati, a handicraft market in the middle of Sukawati, south of Ubud. Masses of stalls offer souvenirs at bargain prices.

For those looking for high quality dance masks, the favorite carvers are Ida Bagus Anom in Mas (next to the soccer field), whose innovative designs can be seen everywhere in Bali, and Ida Baguis Alit in Lod Tunduh Oust south of the junction at Mas and Lod Tunduh). There will soon be a Museum of Woodcarving in Mas.

Antique teak furniture can be found in the shops along the road to Denpasar Mario's in Batuan and Puri Sakanan in Batubulan are two reliable places. Handsome wrought iron funiture and interior pieces are available at Mondirama in Andong. This shop also makes stained glass windows to order. Pak Wuk on the corner of the turn-off to Petulu makes Balinese ceremonial umbrellas in designer sizes-$135 for a 2-m-wide monster. Perfect for the patio!


Cemul on JI. Kajeng, has phantasmagoric sculptures by Bali's best known stone carver.
The more adventurous can find handicrafts in many of the less visited villages surrounding Ubud. Beautiful beadwork belts, bags and earrings are made in the lanes of Penestanan; batik cushions and bedcovers are sold by Wayan

lastri in Penestanan Kaja. The woodcarvers of Nyuh Kuning are renowned for their lifelike animals in waru wood. Kliki is home to artists specializing in miniature watercolors. Giant bamboo furniture abounds in Belaga on the road just before Bona. There are also many woodcarvers on the road between Tengkulak and Kemunuh.

Pondok Bamboo, on the road east of the Monkey Forest, has bamboo musical instruments suling and tingklik as well as percussion 'instruments for the gamelan orchestra. Nearby Kubuku has a variety of wind chimes for sale.

You can purchase English language magazines and newspapers at Ary's Bookshop on the main road, Baliku Cassettes on JI. Monkey Forest across the street from Cafe Wayan, Ubud New stand and Ganesha Bookshop down near the post office. Ganesha has the best selection of new and used books on Bali, plus interesting gift items. You can also participate in a Balinese music workshop here every Tuesday evening at 6 pm for around $5. Ubud Music, opposite Mumbul's, has a selection of cassettes and books. On the corner of the Post Office road is a tiny stationery store that specializes in handmade rice paper and bamboo paper products.


Sobek, JI. Tirta Ening 9, operates white water rafting trips on the Ayung River, a fabulous ride down dramatic gorges. $78 per person, including all equipment, transfers, guides, and a great lunch. Many agents in Ubud handle bookings. Sobek also organizes jungle treks, mountain biking and river kayaking trips for $60-$75 per person. For other rafting companies operating on the Ayung River,

The Bali Bird Club organizes walks around Ubud. Tours are led by Victor Mason, longtime resident and ornithological expert. The $53 price includes lunch, transport, and a copy of Bali Bird Guide. Make reservations through Sobek.

The Bali Bird Park and Bali Reptile Park in Singapadu are on the back road between Ubud and Batubulan. The Bird Park houses over 1,000 birds and two Komodo dragons. The gardens are beautifully sculptured. Well worth a visit. Open 9 am-6 pm daily, $9.

The Crackpot Batik Workshop on JI. Monkey Forest allows you to make your own batik T-shirt (or sarong, cushion, etc.) using their designs or yours. Kids love it! $12.50-$22.50. For special classes in batik-ing, contact Nyoman Suradnya, $35.


24-hour clinic next to lbah Luxury Villas in Campuhan. Oxygen and IV drips are available here, so you can forego the harrowing experience of Denpasar's emergency rooms. The doctors speak good enough English and make "house" calls promptly. There are other English speaking doctors in the area: Dr. Wayan Siada across from the market in Ubud and Dr. Wayan Budiasa in Teges, Peliatan. 4 pm-8 pm.


The main telecommunications/phone office is right at the junction of Peliatan and Ubud and is open from 9 am-5 pm. Home Country Direct phones are located here in their parking lot, at the Ubud Market and Ary's Warung. Otherwise, it is difficult to convince your hotel to use your local phone credit card.


Beauty services. Nur Salon (JI. Hanoman, appointments are imperative) is Ubud's oldest herbal treatment center. Here you can get mandi lulur (an hour long massage followed by an herbal rub and a soak in flower petal infused hot water), an herbal cream bath for your head (massage and conditioner all in one) and the standard manicure, pedicure and haircuts. Other salons offering such services are Milano, just south of the soccer field (best haircuts), Bodyworks, Jl. Hanoman up from Nur's, and the Ubud Sari Health Resort, JI. Kajeng 35, which has massages, steam baths, and chiropractic treatments.

Meditation. There is a public meditation room in the Meditation Shop on J1. Monkey Forest. The shop also sells books and tapes on Raj Yoga. Packing/shipping agents. Abundant in Ubud. MSA, near Dirty Duck Diner is one of the best. Post office. J1. Jembawan, opposite Neka Gallery. Open 8 am-2 pm, Mon-Sat; Fri till 11 am, Sun till 12 noon. Offers poste restante service.


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