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Samurai Power Steering Conversion
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Remove the stock steering rag joint as shown in the left photo. Discard
them. Remove the stock manual steering box by unbolting the 3 bolts using a
17 mm socket or wrench. Clean off any dirt and/or grease on the frame rail
in preparation for drilling the frame. Temporarily mount the new power
steering box to the frame using the lower mounting hole as shown in photo on
right. Mark the other two holes with the box in place. Remove the power
steering box. Using a
transfer punch, mark the two centers of the holes to
be drilled, BE PRECISE! Don't use a common center punch, its going to steer
you wrong (ok bad pun, couldn't resist it). Using a half-inch (1/2") drill
bit, drill the two holes clear through the inside frame rail and the outside
frame rail. Be careful not to drill them crooked. | ||
  A template is included by Trail Tough for the wheel side frame rail if you wish to use it. I did
not need it. Using a three quarter (3/4") drill bit, re-drill the two holes
you just drilled on the outside (the wheel side) frame rail. DO NOT re-drill
the two holes on the inside (engine side) frame rail to ¾ inches! Insert two
spacers from the wheel side of frame into ¾" holes. Mount power steering box
with 3 nuts and bolts. | ||
 Weld 2 spacers to
frame as shown in photo. Do not weld the nuts or bolts. Re-install steering
linkage to pitman arm. Remember to insert a new cotter pin. Note that the
pulley is only included in the 1300 kit (#SPS-351, which is why it cost just
a little bit more). Remove the 4 bolts from the crankshaft pulley, do not
remove the pulley. Add the new power steering pulley in front of stock
pulley and re-install the 4 bolts .
Remove old pump fluid return hoses by loosening hose clamps. If it does not
have a hose clamp, do not loosen it, it's not a return hose. Install new
hoses included with kit & tighten the clamps. Before going on to the next step,
carefully examine the hardware you are about to install. Do the nuts, bolts
and lock washers look stout and strong, or weak and wimpy? Now is the time
to replace faulty hardware. Install new U-Joint to power steering
box shaft and to steering wheel shaft using 2 stock nuts, lock washers and
bolts previously removed from rag joint. Steering shaft will need to be shortened
approximately 2" to allow new U-Joint to fit. You can shorten using a
block of wood and a hammer. Shorten it in small increments checking for fit
before you shorten again. Notice there is a small nylon insert that normally
prevents it from moving. Remember to re-install bolt
through U-Joint and at shaft of power steering box. | ||
  Attach adapter bracket to engine block as shown in
left photo. Bracket may have to be notched to fit on some vehicles using
stock exhaust manifolds, and depending on vehicle year. At the time I was
using a stock 1.3 exhaust manifold on my 1.3 so I clearanced the manifold
using a hand grinder. Attach Pump to engine bracket as shown in right photo.
Mount fluid reservoir upright to any convenient location, Trail Tough
recommended mounting on last web of inner fender at firewall, I mounted in
the left front corner near the headlight. A rectangular spacer bracket is
included to assist in diverse mounting locations. | ||
  Install new belt included
with kit and tighten belt tension by adjusting pump. Add new power steering
fluid to reservoir to the correct cold level while engine is OFF. This may
take several applications while pump; box and lines continue to fill with
fluid. Re-install radiator and fill with new anti-freeze. All done! I always
thought spinach tasted awful. Wonder if Popeye ever ate anything else?
END. | ||
04/16/11 14:04:01
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