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Charlie's eplanes
Tiger Moth

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GWS Tiger Moth

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Clear plastic air scoop added to stock air inlet directs airflow to fins of motor heat sink. Front opening only large enough to clear propeller shaft so that all incoming air blows directly on the heat sink. Clear areas on right and left are side air outlets that proved ineffective due to the small gaps.

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Detail of landing gear attachment to fuselage.

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Servos showing attachment of Kevlar pull/pull lines. Right servo is for rudder and tailwheel. Tailwheel is attached to inner thread so it deflects less than the rudder.

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Cowl repair with Monokote™ trim sheeting cut into narrow strips. It had been crushed in the area of the tape like an eggshell. Too bad I didn't realize I had a closer color the first time I used it. Top layer is closer color and having two layers makes it look more even, it's stronger, and the plane flies the same. At a distance, it looks good enough to my old eyes. The barnstormers used tape. ;)

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Bottom view shows Kevlar line pulling LG cross brace into bow shape giving wheels toe-in.
Battery compartment cut out in front and blocked off in back so that vacuum formed behind cowl pulls air through the air intake at front of cowl.
Tadiran (3x800 mAh) battery is semi-permanently mounted with velcro in fuselage.
Azarr Micro Reciever Antenna is in fuselage at upper left.
Pixie 7P ESC is mounted externally for cooling and because I like to see the light flash.
Flying wires and attachments to wings may also be seen.

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Power connector in cockpit. You "plug the plane into the charger."

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Pull/pull controls:
Control horns are made from square wooden toothpicks. First, holes of a suitable diameter are drilled; I used around 0.020". Then I soaked the ends in thin CA. Blowing on them clears out the holes pretty well. Back it up with a paper towel. It's best to run the drill through again nonetheless.
The opposite ends were cut at a 45° angle and glued together with CA. In this case I inserted the right angled toothpicks through the precut slots. You can cut slots where it's best. I adjusted the toothpicks so they had even extension and the hole was even with the hinge line. I glued them in with 5 min. epoxy.
I use toothpicks for pushrod horns too. I can make the hole the perfect diameter. They've held up on my Terry that makes belly landings in a leg scratchin', stubbly field.
The lines are Cabelas Superstrong™ aramid (generic Kevlar) fly tying thread. Teflon tubing is short scraps of 1/16" OD I got where I used to work. Wheel was bought from Tower Hobbies.
Black material on elevator is CF tape to stop flexing of web.

Pull/pulls Made Easy

Some people are worried about aligning and tensioning pull/pulls. There's a simple trick that makes it easy.
First, tie a thread to one control horn and run it up through the servo arm hole you want to use, then run a piece of thread up through the other servo arm hole without tying it to the horn. Tie the two ends that have passed through the servo arm holes together close to the holes. Be sure the knot won't bind on a hole while you're tightening the line to the other horn.
Here's the key. When you're tightening the line don't even think about alignment, just get it to a good tightness. Don't hoss down, but it should be taut. Mine give a dull, loose twang. Pull it to that tightness and take a few wraps around the end of the toothpick. Then a drop of CA.
Now you align the control surface with the centered servo by moving it with your hand. The thread will slip through the servo holes pretty easily. Don't force it, if it seems you're bending the control surface you can pull on one of the threads while moving it. I put a couple of small drops of PFM (shoe goo) on the line and arm on either side of the screw where there are no holes. It holds well and can be scraped off with a fingernail if you need to change it.
Tackling one thing at a time makes it easy and precise. I think it's easier to get a linkage with no slop and perfect alignment using pull/pulls than using pushrods.