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The Pikeville Main Street Program Walking Tour | home
Abstract of the Recording Prepared for the 1990 Main Street Walking Tour, which also Contains a Short History of Pikeville, Pike County, Kentucky
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Note: There have been many changes in the downtown since this recording was made.
The Walking Tour began in the gazebo in the City Park.
On behalf of the Pikeville Main Street Program, welcome to a walking tour designed to increase and enhance your awareness and appreciation of Pikeville's rich architectural heritage. The information which you will be receiving today was compiled from two major and valuable sources. Both recognition and great appreciation should be given to Helen Powell of Lexington and David Deskins of Pikeville. Each of these individuals have spent a significant amount of time in researching the historical background of Pike County. Ms. Powell prepared the nominations of several of Pikeville's historic building and districts to be placed upon the United States Department of Interior's prestigious National Register of Historic Places. William David Deskins, the current Pike County Circuit Court Clerk, is the author of an excellent book entitled, "Pike County - A Very Different Place". This book, published in 1994, contains over 200 pages of historical stories and photographs, which thoroughly detail the rich historical background of Pike County from its very beginnings up to the present day. Your presence today on this tour of Pikeville's historic architecture indicates that you have more than a passing interest in the history of Pikeville, and accordingly, Mr. Deskin's book is highly recommended reading. Both the efforts of Ms. Powell and Mr. Deskins were made easier with the invaluable assistance of Betsy Venters, who assisted each in their respective undertakings. All three of these individuals deserve a large measure of recognition and gratitude for making your walking tour of Pikeville's historic structures possible.
This walking tour is meant to be enjoyed at your own individual pace and speed. If at any time during your tour, you wish to spend extra time enjoying a particular building or detail, please feel free to turn off your tape player for as long as you wish.
In order to fully understand and appreciate the architectural features of any given structure that structure must be examined and considered within the context of the many parameters which existed at the time of construction. Those parameters include such considerations as: the purpose and use of the structure, the timeframe of construction, the existing economy at that time, the state of existing construction technology, availability of materials and craftsmen familiar with those materials, popular styles of the time, forces of nature upon the structure and so forth. Pikeville has experienced several periods of economic "good times" and its share of not-so-good times in between. It is interesting to note the several cyclical construction stages that have appeared with the better economic periods.
One of the forces of nature that has had an impact upon the structures of Pikeville, and upon the very configuration of the city itself, is the propensity of the Big Sandy River to periodically flood. Downtown Pikeville has experienced significant floods in 1862, 1913, 1917, 1948, 1957, 1963, 1967, and 1977. With the rerouting of the river through the cut-through, flooding of the downtown was averted in 1984, and hopefully for the rest of Pikeville's future. When viewed from the air, the majority of the built-up area of Pikeville is seen as a crescent -shaped development built upon the inside radius of the former riverbed. Prior to the completion of the cut-through project, the Big Sandy River flowed in a horse shore path around Peach Orchard Mountain. Since the length of travel of waters on the outside radius of the river was greater than the length of travel of the inside radius, the water at the outside radius traveled at a higher velocity than the waters at the inside radius. Accordingly, over the thousands and thousands of years of periodic flooding, the outside radius of the river flow kept eating away at the base of the mountains and the slower moving waters of the inside radius would allow sediment to settle out. This sedimentation at the inside radius is what created the flat land that downtown Pikeville is now built upon. As you drive up and down the river, you will see similar flat planes of sedimentation at the inside radius of each of the river's many bends. Since the very beginning of man's settlement in this part of the country, this is where the majority of manmade development has occurred, along the river. Since most of the structures over the years were built upon the very same flat lands created by flooding, many of the early frame structures have been destroyed by flooding. Thus a great number of Pike County's historical structures have literally "washed down the river".
A popular misconception is that a structure must be a century old to be considered to be historically significant. Nothing could be further from the truth! Only a hand full of buildings in Pikeville are over a century old; however, over the years, the architectural heritage of Pikeville has become very rich and is becoming richer every year with buildings, which express very well, those parameters which were mentioned earlier. In days of late, there is a nationwide movement underway to recognize the valid heritage of construction which has occurred much less than a century ago. This movement encourages the appreciation of what is called, "Recent Historical Structures".
In order to understand and fully appreciate the buildings which you will be viewing today, it is important to know a little bit about the historical background of Pikeville and the Pike County area.
The first human being to tread soil now designated Pike County, Kentucky was a paleo-Indian some 10,000 years ago, a descendant of the Asian people who wandered their way across America by way of Alaska and Canada. He may have been alone, but more likely was among a group of hunters passing through the area, pursuing game and exploring the next horizon. Evidence indicates that early hunters in Kentucky killed such now extinct species as the mastodon, the giant ground sloth, and the saber-toothed tiger.
In a Yale University study entitled, "The Prehistory of Fishtrap", it is hypothesized from identifiable artifacts that the first somewhat permanent settlements in Pike County were established by native Americans as early as 3,000 B.C. A second recognizable permanent village was that of the Woodland native Americans, established sometime after 1,000 A.D.
Interestingly, in the early 1980's, while excavating for a Pikeville water main was taking place in front of the Church of Christ at the opposite end of Main Street, the skeleton of one of these early Indians was discovered, buried less than 3 feet deep in the grassy strip between the Main Street Curb and the sidewalk. The following week, a second Indian skeleton was unearthed on the opposite side of Main Street. In all likelihood, the streets, sidewalks, and buildings of downtown Pikeville rest upon an untold number of graves of the earliest inhabitants of Pike County.
The earliest white explorer to step into what is now known as Pike County, Kentucky probably crossed from Virginia through Pound Gap at Jenkins and down into the headwaters of Elkhorn Creek during the middle 1700's. In this portion of the country, the westernmost area of settlement of the early pioneers at that time was in Powell Valley, near Norton, Virginia. The human urge to explore the unknown and the quest for new lands to hunt and explore, created the curiosity of those early settlers which beckoned them to make incursions into the beautiful, but unexplored and unknown territory of rugged and mountainous eastern Kentucky. At David, Kentucky in Floyd County, ther is a plaque which marks the location where Daniel Boone spent the winter of 1767. His route to reach that location took him through the area of the Breaks Interstate Park, down the Russell Park, to the Levisa Fork and along the Big Sandy River, past the very same location where you now stand in the Pikeville City Park.
In 1792, the state of Kentucky was created from the western portion of Virginia. The lands that are now known as Pike County were originally part of Mason County, Kentucky. Seven years later, the area now known as Pike County was part of the newly formed Floyd County. In 1799, Floyd County was created by an act of Legislature of the Commonwealth of Kentucky from parts of Fleming, Montgomery, and Mason Counties. Twenty-two years later, by Act of the General Assembly of the Commonwealth of Kentucky, Floyd County was divided, and on December 19, 1821, Pike County was created. The county was named in honor of General Zebulon Montgomery Pike, who was killed at the age of 34 at the Battle of Yorktown in Upper Canada. The Pike County community of Zebulon and the famous Pike's peak in central Colorado, were named in honor of General Pike.
The very first entry in Order Book # 1 of the Pike County Clerk's Office is dated March 4, 1822 and officially records the first Pike County Court meeting. This meeting was held at the home of Spencer Adkins along the Big Sandy River near Millard. There was an immediate controvesy over the site selected for the county seat, originally to have been on the farm of Peyton Justice in a long-gone settlement then known as Liberty, near the mouth of Peyton's creek, several miles upriver from Pikeville. On December 24, 1823, the Pike County Commissioners met and agreed upon a site for the new Courthouse to be located on an acre of land donated by Elijah Adkins opposite the mouth of Chloe Creek. This is the site of the present Pike County Courthouse. The following year, by official act of the Commonwealth of Kentucky, the Town of Pikeville, originally known as Piketon, was established in 1824.
Even though Pikeville was now officially a town, there was no rush to build there. Perhaps there was an early store or two, and over the years someone, a doctor or lawyer perhaps would build a log house in town. But even as late as 1860, there were only a dozen homes and buildings around the public square constituting the town. As the years passed, stores opened and goods were brought in on the backs of horses overland or on push boats up the Big Sandy. Early stores were located in Pikeville, Millard, and Pond Creek. For many years, these would represent the only progress and indications of development in the greater part of the mountains of eastern Kentucky. The wealth of the people of this time was measured not in money, but in land, cattle, beehives, horses, fruit trees, chickens, sheep, rifles, hogs, hunting dogs, slaves, crops, tobacco, and the number of productive members of the family.
During the 1800's, the concept of "roads" could not be applied to the routes of travel. The terrain dictated that routes of travels were routes of "least resistance" between any two points. This meant along streams and rivers, crossing back and forth many times; along the side of the mountain on a bench; and through low gaps in the heads of hollows. In bad weather, travel was impossible. Wagons were not practical, and virtually indestructible heavy wooden sleds, pulled by stout horses or mules for short hauls, were the chosen method for transporting goods. In Pikeville, all of the streets were dirt until 1913, at which time brick manufactured by the Peebles Brick Company of Portsmouth, Ohio, were begun to be laid over a bed of river sand. In certain isolated sections of the city streets, these brick are still visible. The first automobile in Pikeville was a Saxon, delivered to G.W. Greer in 1910.
Out of the necessity, Pike County was a self-sufficient, isolated place to be. The earliest system for the construction of roads in Pike County was through the county government. If an individual wished to have a road constructed, he would present himself to the County Judge, with a request that the county surveyor lay out the road. If approved by the county, all of the able-bodied men who lived in that section would be required to work on the road constructing and maintaining it for a certain number of days out of the year. Often many days of work would be destroyed by rain and water in a few minutes. Incredibly, the locally operated system of road construction and maintenance remained in effect until the mid-1930's, when a state highway department was initiated in Pike County.
The virtual isolation of Pikeville from the outside world dictated that the early structures were built of locally available materials, mainly wood. Accordingly, most of the early examples of Pikeville's indigenous architecture have fallen to the ravages of time, termites, and decay. There were a limited number of building constructed of brick, which was fired on site, using clay from the riverbank. The most notable of these are the Academy Building, built in 1889, and the Bowles Building at 331 Main Street which was constructed during the Civil War between 1862 and 1865. It is interesting to note that the Bowles Building is still occupied by Chrisman Insurance, which is owned by one of the Bowles heirs. Only a few of the buildings erected in Pikeville prior to the construction of the railroad in 1905 remain. Those remaining buildings constructed prior to the completion of railroad must be especially appreciated by virtue of the difficulty in transporting such building materials as glass windows from the outside world. The bulk of the building materials imported into Pikeville from the outside world before 1905, were transported by means of steamboats, which could only travel as far upstream as Pikeville during the limited times of sufficient water depth in the river. Early photographs depict the main Pikeville steamboat landing location behind the present Courthouse.
Now that you have listened to a brief background of the history of Pikeville which should help you to better understand the forces behind the design and construction of Pikeville's older structures, let us begin our walking tour. Please turn off your tape player until you reach the next location on the tour, which is the historical marker in the City Park entitled "James A. Garfield".
In the presidential election of 1860, out of a total of 1,431 Pike County voters, only one voted for Abraham Lincoln. Statewide, Lincoln received less than 1% of the vote. However, in the Civil War, Kentucky attempted to remain neutral. Within the state there were a limited number of individuals who would openly and publicly announce their affiliation with either the North or the South. Most of the citizens of the mountains of eastern Kentucky did not consider the Civil War to be their war.
In early October 1861, the war was brought to Pikeville. The Confederate Infantry, under Colonel John S. Williams took control of Pikeville and established an encampment. The first military occupation of Pikeville was under way. The Confederate flag was raised over the Pike County Courthouse. The Confederate Army was well received by certain local officials including Pike County Judge William Cecil, David May, and Dr. John Emmert, who assisted the Confederate military government. Other citizens remained loyal to the Union including Clinton Van Buskirk and John Dils, Jr., who were arrested at the order of Colonel Williams and shipped as prisoners of war to the infamous Libby Prison at Richmond, Virginia.
The Confederate occupancy of Pikeville was short-lived. Under the directive of General William T. Sherman, General William O. "Bull" Nelson was sent into the Big Sandy Valley with 3,500 well-armed men to drive out the Confederates. On November 8, 1861, the battle of Ivy Creek took place in Floyd County, where according to the report of General Nelson, 32 Confederates were killed with the loss of 6 Union soldiers. The Union troops occupied Pikeville on November 10, 1862 and routed the hastily retreating Confederates, who fled in the directions of Pound Gap and into the safety of the Confederate state of Virginia. In late December, 1861, Humphrey Marshall led 3,000 Confederate troops back out of Virginia, through Pound Gap, through Letcher and Floyd Counties and established an encampment about 35 mile downstream from Pikeville, at Hager Hill in Johnson County.
With the orders to oust Marshall and the Confederates out of the Big Sandy Valley, Union Army colonel James A. Garfield assembled troops at Catlettsburg and began moving them upstream. Garfield's forces encountered Marshall's Confederates on January 10, 1862, at the Battle of Middle Creek in Floyd County. The location of this wintertime is marked with a Historical Highway Marker. Marshall and his 3,000 men fled up Beaver Creek, through Letcher County and back into Virginia.
Garfield then sent a detachment of 110 mounted Union soldiers to Pikeville to chase out a roving and marauding band of Confederates. On January 24, 1862, Pike County Judge William Cecil, a Confederate sympathizer, was shot and killed by a Union soldier, who was a member of this detachment. There are no written accounts which give details of this incident.
About a month later, on February 22, 1862, Garfield moved into Pikeville and established an encampment of 3,000 men in the present city park. The Big Sandy River was flooding at the time and the soldiers were forced to move their tents to the hillside overlooking Pikevile in the present location of the Pikeville College Campus. Garfield's campaign in the Big Sandy Valley was wrapped up approximately 3 weeks later, when on March 16, 1862, he began moving a portion of his troops up the Big Sandy to engage Confederate General Humphrey Marshall at Pound Gap. While in Pikeville, Garfield originally used a structure known as the Ratliff's Tavern, located here in the City Park, as his headquarters. Soon after the Battle of Middle Creek, Garfield was appointed Brigadier General by President Lincoln. His oath of office as Brigadier General was administered by the Pike County Squire John Charles in this location. Garfield later became President of the United States, but was assassinated shortly after his inauguration. Although the historical marker indicates Garfield was sworn as General in January, 1862, it actually occurred in March 1862. In the early 1930's, the Bowles House, the grand house where Garfield lived while in Pikeville, was torn down.
For those of you who are interested in discovering more about the many other Civil War skirmishes in and around Pike County, you are encouraged to read the book mentioned at the beginning of the tour, entitled, "Pike County - A Very Different Place" by David Deskins. Mr. Deskins has laboriously assembled the Civil War information in his book from a wide source of authoritative archives. He is a regular participant in various Civil War battle reenactments and is considered to be a scholar and authority on the topic.
At this time, please turn your attention to the Presbyterian and Methodist Churches located across Huffman Avenue from the Garfield Historical Marker.
These two fine structures are designed in a style known as Gothic Revival. The architectural term "Revival" is applied to designs which employ details from an earlier style and age. In the case of Gothic Revival, the earlier style and age is that of the European Gothic Cathedrals. The Gothic Cathedrals were designed with steeply-pitched roof angles, which directed your eyes, (and hopefully your spirits) toward heaven. That upward thrust is reinforced by the shape of the stain-glassed windows.
These two churches are the best examples of early twentieth century religious architecture in Pikeville. As you will notice, the main floors of both these buildings are elevated to avoid flood waters. The older of these two churches is the Presbyterian Church located on the left. It was erected in 1908. Prior to the construction of this building, the Presbyterians held their services in the second floor of the Pikeville Collegiate Institute, which is now known as the Academy Building.
The Methodist Church, located on the right, at the corner of Huffman Avenue and Main Street was erected in 1912, four years after the Presbyterian Church. The Methodist Church was founded in 1845 in Pikeville. Prior to the construction of the existing Methodist Church, the congregation jointly owned the existing building at 339 Main Street with the Masons. In 1911, the Methodists sold their interest in the Masonic Lodge and purchased the site where the present church was built.
The brick in both of these buildings is hard-fired by a commercial kiln and accordingly was probably brought to Pikeville by rail from the outside along with the stained glass and limestone.
It is interesting to note that the masonry framing the openings for all of the stained-glass windows in both these churches employ a "keystone" at the top, or "crown" of the arch. During construction, temporary scaffolding is erected to hold the bricks or stone framing of the arch in place, until the wedge-shaped Keystone, which is shaped out of limestone, is dropped into place. Once the Keystone is in place, the weight of the bricks above the arched opening is distributed down each side of the opening and the arch becomes structurally solid. Please notice that the arches for the main stained glass windows in each of these churches is pointed at the top, while the arches of some of the smaller openings in the Methodist Church are round at the top. The pointed arches are known as "Gothic Arches" and the round arches are known as "Roman Arches".
The foundation wall of the Methodist Church is constructed of rusticated limestone. The term "rusticated" when applied to stone masonry, literally means rustic, or rough. The rusticated limestone foundation is capped with a smooth limestone "water table" while the water table of the Presbyterian Church is constructed of rusticated limestone. The term water table refers to the projected band or ledge at the bottom of a wall designed to direct rain water running down the wall away from the inside of the wall.
If you direct your attention to the smaller louvered opening above the main stained-glass window of the Methodist Church on the right, you will notice that the center arched opening is flanked on each side by rectangular openings. This set of three openings, with an arch in the center and two rectangular openings at the sides is known as "Palladian" window, or fenestration. This is named after the famous Italian 16th century architect, Andrea Palladio who designed and widely utilized this scheme of three-windowed openings in his buildings. If you look carefully, you will discover other examples of Palladian windows in the buildings on this tour.
Now, please turn your attention to the Presbyterian Church on the left. You will notice at the roof line of the entrance is a detail known as "castellation". This is reminiscent of the battlements of an early European castle and was designed to convey the concept of the church being a "mighty fortress". Also, notice the blocks of limestone at the bottoms of each of the arched openings. These are known as "thrust blocks" and provide a solid point of thrust for the beginnings of the arched portion of the openings. This is also known as the "spring line" of the arch or the horizontal line form which the arch "springs".
Now, please turn off your tape player and proceed to the next location on the tour, which is in front of the United States Post Office Building located across Main Street from the Methodist Church.
You should now be standing in front of the Post Office.
If you will look at the lower right corner of the building, behind the ramp, you will see the cornerstone, which indicates the building was erected in 1931 with James A. Whetmore bing the Supervising Architect. During the Great Depression, following the collapse of the stock market in 1929, and the subsequent failure of the United States banking system and economy in general, the United States Government began a vigorous campaign of constructing public buildings under the WPA Program. This was for the purpose of creating jobs as well as for the purpose of pumping money back into the economy. The Pikeville Post Office was one of many examples of public works projects undertaken in eastern Kentucky during this bleak economic period. Another outstanding example of depression-era WPA public works is the Pauley "swinging" bridgle located just north of town.
The Pikeville Post Office is designed in a style known as "Classical Revival" with some "Georgian Revival" details. It incorporates some of the finer design elements of the early Georgian plantation houses.
The bricks of the Post Office are laid in what is know as an "English Bond" pattern. English Bond consists of alternating courses of brick laid lengthwise (also known as a "stretcher" course) with bricks laid endwise (also known as a "header" course). Notice at the corners of the building, the brick is laid in a detail known as "rusticated Quoins" (spelled Q-U-O-I-N-S, not coins like pocket change). This brick pattern mimics the original limestone quoins utilized to structurally strengthen early hand made soft brick buildings. The term 'rusticated" when applied to brick means that the surfaces of the brick courses are laid in different planes, with some courses projecting outward and courses inset. This creates shadow bands for purely aesthetic purposes.
At the top of the wall of the Post Office is a horizontal limestone band known as a "false cornice". The reason it is called a false cornice, is that it is not at the very top of the wall. A non-false, or normal cornice, is at the very top of a wall, and is designed to project out beyond the wall to create an overhang to keep rainwater from running off the roof and staining the wall with dirty streaks.
Below the cornice, you will see a row of small, evenly-spaced block which appear to support the cornice. These are known as "dentils" and as the term implies, are named after teeth, since they appear to be a row of evenly-spaced teeth.
Above the eave line of the Post Office, the windows of the second story are located in a shingled sloped wall. This can best be observed from the opposite side of the street. The shingled portion of the building is known as a "Mansard Rood". It is legended that the Mansard roof was invented centuries ago in Paris, France for the purpose of tax avoidance. According to the legend, the Parisian method for determining property taxes was based upon the number of floors of the building below the lower edge of the roof. By means of making the wall of the top floor appear to be the roof, the inventor of the Mansard roof was able to sneak an extra level into his building without having to pay taxes on it.
Please note the eagle medallion over the main entrance. Also notice the scroll work above the "United States Post Office" lettering as well as the tops of the columns. These architectural details are created from a material known as "polychrome terra cotta". In Latin, the term "poly" means "many"; the term "chrome" means "color"; and term "terra" means "earth"; the term "cotta" means "cooked" or "baked". In other words, all of these features are created from "many-colored baked earth".
The tops of the columns are known as "capitals". There are three classic "orders" of columns which are determined by the styles of their capitals. The oldest and plainest is know as "Doric". A Doric column is straightforward, with no ornamentation on the capital. Doric columns can be seen on the front porches of many of Pikeville's older homes. The second order of columns is known as "Ionic". Ionic columns can be recognized by a scrolled capital in the form of a ram's horn. Probably the best example of an Ionic column in Pikeville is at the entrance to the current City Hall, which used to be the C & O Railroad passenger terminal. The third of the three classic orders of columns is known as "Corinthian". A Corinthian column is identified by a capital which appears to be decorated with plant leaves. The leaves decorating the capital of a classic Corinthian column are styled after the Mediterranean acanthus plant, which grows in abundance around the ancient, southern Greek city of Corinth. The polychrome capitals of the Post Office columns are of a somewhat highly-stylized Corinthian order.
The building component which supports the brick above a window or door opening is known as a "Lintel". At the tops of the Post Office windows are limestone lintels which incorporate a somewhat stylized keystone. Between each of the Post Office lintels and dentils are limestone tablets which are designed as a highly-stylized bunting draping above the windows.
Adjacent to the Post Office is the Federal Courthouse, which was erected in 1940, nine years after the Post Office was built. The Federal Courthouse is designed in a style known as "Georgian Revival", which aesthetically blends with the Georgian Revival details of the Post Office. It is interesting to note that the Post Office and Federal Courthouse brick walls are the only examples found in Pikeville of brick laid in an "English Bond" pattern. The windows of the lower level of the Federal Courthouse incorporate what is known as a "Jack" lintel, which incorporates a "skew back" of brick laid in a "soldier" (or vertical pattern) with a central limestone keystone. Design-wise, this aesthetically blends with, and is sensitive to, the lintel treatment of the adjacent Post Office. The arches above both the main entrance and the second story windows consists of a simple arched soldier course of brick. The eave of the Federal Courthouse is supported by evenly spaced blocking known as "corbels". The repetitive rhythm of the corbels of the Federal Courthouse echo the rhythm of the dentils on the Post Office. The green terra cotta tile, hip roof of the Federal Courthouse (which reflects an extension of the earlier Post Office roof) is topped by a square cupola. The cupola is topped with a decorative metal spire known as a "finial". On the north facade of the Federal Courthouse is a cast iron balcony off the second floor courtroom.
Across the street from the Federal Courthouse is the Kentucky Power Building. Although this building may not fit the class definition of "historically significant", it does reveal a unique "industrial style" of architecture which merits attention. The brick masonry work of the Kentucky Power building incorporates infix panels between the windows of the upper an lower floors laid in an unusual "stack bond" of alternating "stretcher" and "rowlock" courses.
The next location on the tour is the former Hatcher Hotel. This currently vacant structure is on the same side of Main Street as the Federal Courthouse and is located next to the Pike County Courthouse. The best vantage point is from across Main Street from the hotel building. You may now turn off your tape player until you reach the next destination.
You should now be standing in front of and across the street from the Hatcher hotel.
Construction of the Hatcher Hotel was begun in the late 1920's by James Hatcher, but due to difficult economic times, was not completed until August, 1931. The hotel had 106 guest rooms and was visited by First Lady, Eleanor Roosevelt on July 3, 1934. The building was completely constructed of fireproof brick, structural clay tile, and concrete floors. It was the "social capitol" of the local community during its hay-day.
Although the street level exterior has unfortunately been "updated" with nondescript storefront materials, the upper levels still exhibit interesting masonry. The corners of the building and three intermediate engaged pilasters are laid in "rusticated quoins" similar to the quoined corners you saw at the Post Office. The lintels of the second story windows are similar to the first story lintels of the Federal Courthouse, incorporating a limestone keystone. Above the third story windows is a continuous band of soldier course brick. Between the soldier course and the limestone capping are framed tablets of "basket weave pattern" brick.
The next destination on the tour is the Pike County Courthouse, best seen from the opposite side of the street. You may now turn off your tape player until you reach the next destination.
You should now be standing across the street from the Pike County Courthouse.
In the November term of Pike County Court for 1822, the following specifications were given for constructions of the first Pike County Courthouse:
"The said house shall be underpinned with good stone and the outside shall be weather boarded on straight laths boarded and corniced in a plain manner.
One half of the under floor shall be laid over with good brick, and the other half with good plank. And there shall be 2 good panel doors, made and hung in good iron hinges or butts. And the undertaker shall furnish one good and sufficient lock.
There shall be one window in the end of the house, back of where the judges seat shall be made, and two windows through the wall of said house, opposite where the lawyer bar is. The windows to be large enough to hold 12 lights of glass. And a sash of said windows and the moulding of said windows may be plain. And the shetters. There will be a court bench 4 feet wide made 14 feet long and 2 feet high. And there shall be good bannisters to said bench 2 feet high. There shall be a court seat 15 inches high. Also said foot bench 1st named as long as the court bench except the terrice for the advanced chair for the judge and presiding justices for the peace to set on. There shall be one set of stairs to go up to the court bench on the side next to the river. There shall be 2 cherry cases 10 feet long. First one to be made 18 inches above the floor and the othe case to be 3 feet high, and convenient steps to be made up to said cases. And there shall be 1 pr. stairs to go to the upper floor on the side cherry cases are. There shall be stairs put in there shall be three lawyer seats one 14 feet long and the other 24 feet long. There shall be 1 cork inkstand to each table screen on to said table. The said lawyers seats shall be bannistered 15 inches high. There shall be 1 clerk's table 6 feet long and made after the desk form.
All workmanship, shall be done after a good workmanship like manner."
No photograph of the first Pike County Courthouse exists, but it served the citizens of Pike County for some 64 years, when a new red brick Pike County Courthouse was built. The red brick Courthouse was designed by H.P. and Kenneth McDonald, architects from Louisville and was constructed at a cost of $17,000 by Andrew Hatcher of Pikeville. It was completed on April 6, 1889.
In 1932, the red brick Courthouse was extensively remodeled and enlarged at a further cost of $110,000. The newly enlarged yellow brick building virtually surrounded the 1889 red brick Courthouse. The style is somewhat eclectic (or mixed), but is considered by some to be in a Spanish Renaissance style. The red clay tile roof is topped by an ornate and elaborate clock tower which is topped with a copper sheet domed roof. The clock tower incorporates 9 copper finials or spires as decoration.
The projected entrances incorporate limestone quoins at the corners and a limestone block arch with keystone. Each of the entrances is accentuated by the gabled roof, of which the ridge line is perpendicular to the remaining roof line. The "running bond" brick masonry walls of the first story are virtually enhanced with horizontal shadow bands every sixth course. Notice the limestone lintels and keystones above the first story windows. The perceived height of the upper two levels is visually enhanced by use of engaged brick pilasters between the windows. These pilasters also structurally stiffen the walls. The bulky overhanging eaves are visually and structurally supported by corbels similar to those found on the Federal Courthouse.
The remodeling and expansion in 1932 occurred during the time of the modernistic architectural style known as "Art Deco". The exterior light fixtures at the entrance are of the more modern "Art Deco" style of that period.
The next destination of the tour is across Main Street, in front of the Pike County Courthouse at the location of the Historical Marker dedicated to the memory of the Revolutionary Soldiers buried in Pike County. Before you begin that segment of the tour, you may want to spend a few minutes walking around the exterior of the Courthouse and reading the Historical Markers regarding the Courthouse, the Hatfield-McCoy feud, and the Pike County soldiers memorial statue at the Courthouse entrance between the Courthouse and the new Hall of Justice. You may now turn off you tape player until you reach you next destination.
You should now be standing in front of the Courthouse at the Historical Marker dedicated to the memory of the Revolutionary War soldiers buried in Pike County.
Take a minute to scan the names of the soldiers of the Revolutionary War who are buried in Pike County. Almost every one of their family names are names which you will find in today's telephone directory. Perhaps you will even find your own family name on the bronze tablet. In every war and military action in which the United States has been engaged, Pike Countians have served their country. This bronze tablet also reveals the tenacity which Pike Countians have to stick to their roots. Although difficult economic times in the past have driven eastern Kentuckians to seek jobs elsewhere, most Pike Countians have demonstrated their will to return to the place of their birth.
Now, please take a look at the buildings on the opposite side of Main Street.
As new tenants move into and out of most downtown buildings, the street level facades undergo a multitude of non-conforming remodelings, each intended to compete for the attention of the sidewalk passersby. One learned architectural historian theorized that most downtowns would be much more visually stimulating if the streets were filled with dirt up to the marquee level. This theory certainly applies to downtown Pikeville. In order to fully appreciate the original architectural integrity and historical significance of most of Pikeville's downtown buildings, the trained observer must focus his view above the marquee level.
The 4 story building at the corner of Grace Avenue and Main Street was constructed between 1920 and 1925 as the Old Anthony Hotel. Until completion of the First National Bank (now known as Bank One), the 4 story Anthony Hotel was the tallest commercial building in Pikeville. The straightforward, no-nonsense style of the Anthony Hotel is known as "Commercial Vernacular". The most interesting concession to aesthetic design of the brick masonry of the Anthony Hotel Building is the basket weave brick coursing between each story of widows. Over the years, various street level remodelings have compromised the visual integrity of this building. Unfortunately, in deference to energy-related concerns, the original windows have been infilled with residential vinyl siding and the overall architectural integrity of the building has been virtually destroyed.
To the right of the Anthony Hotel, is the Old Pauley Building. This building, also of the Commercial Vernacular style was also constructed between 1920 and 1925. It incorporates a wealth of interesting masonry detailing above the marquee level. The heavy false cornice of the Pauley building is constructed of cantilevered brick, each course projecting further from the frontal plane of the building than the course below. The false cornice is visually supported by a corbeled brick arcade. The third story windows incorporate flat limestone lintels. Between the second story and third story windows are visually interesting panels of herringbone brick sandwiched between two rows of soldier courses, which have limestone block bookends. The original entry of the building was accentuated by the central gable above a stone entablature at the second story window header line.
To the right of the Pauley Building is the two story Yost Building. The Yost Building, constructed in 1890 by J.E. Yost is one of only three remaining downtown buildings that remain from Pikeville's early commercial development. After the Civil War, Yost returned from his duty in the Union Army. As one of Pikeville's early entrepreneurs, twenty-five years later, he constructed his general store in Commercial Vernacular style, utilizing brick thought to be molded and fired by Mack Bowles on the riverbank in the approximate location of where Shurtliff's Laundry is now sited on Myra Barnes Avenue. The population of Pikeville when this building was constructed was 506 citizens. Main Street was still unpaved, and during rains was a muddy mess. Goods sold from this building were delivered by steam boats and flat boats, which tied up to a large sycamore tree behind the Courthouse.
To right of the Yost Building, on the corner of Division and Main is the Old Day & Night Bank. This Classical Revival Building, built in 1927, was originally a single story building. It provides the only sandstone facade left in Pikeville. Despite and unsympathetic second story addition, it remains an asset to the Main Street streetscape by virtue of the shallow relief created by pilasters and arches. The only redeeming feature of the brick second story is the corbeled brick detailing below the coping line. The Day & Night Bank was destined to failure, being swept up in the nationwide epidemic of bank failures at the beginning of the Great Depression.
You are now ready to proceed to the next vantage point of the tour, which is located in front of the Bank One Building facing the opposite side of Main Street. You may turn off your tape player until you reach the next location.
You should now be standing in front of the Bank One Building facing the buildings on the opposite side of the street.
On the corner of Division and Main Street is the Old Bowles Building. Along with the Yost Building, this is the second of three downtown buildings representing the early commercial development of Pikeville. It was built as a general store during the Civil War, between 1862 and 1865 by Orlando C. Bowles, who was a Union Army Captain, having served in the 40th Ohio commanded by Colonel James A. Garfield. Bowles was extraordinary individual who served as a State Representative from Pike and Letcher Counties. He was one of the earliest individuals to harvest Pike County timber on a massive scale. In the years following the Civil War, he was a staunch, but unsuccessful advocate, along with Colonel John Dils, of the State building a series of locks and dams to allow major river traffic from the Ohio River to Pikeville. It is interesting to note that the Bowles Building is currently occupied by Chrisman Insurance, which is owned by members of the Orlando C. Bowles heirs.
To the right of the Bowles Building is a small, but interesting Commercial Vernacular building built in 1930. It is constructed with refined and straightforward, but nonetheless, tasteful masonry, detailing.
The next building to the right (formerly Gene & Mikes) is historically known as the Lodge Building. It was constructed in 1885 as a joint venture between the Masons and the Methodist Church. The deed stipulated that if the building burned, both groups would have equal access and right to rebuild. This building served the Methodist congregation until 1911, at which time the Methodist sold their rights and purchased the corner lot at Huffman Avenue and Main Street where the existing Methodist Church was built. Sometime between 1911 and 1920, a ten foot extension was added to the front facade of the Lodge Building. This addition obscured the original gable roof. From the north side of the building, you will notice the stepped parapet created by the addition. Also notice the four round arched windows of the original building.
Across the alley, is the final of the three commercial buildings representing Pikeville's early commercial development. This structure, originally known as the Caudill Store, was built for Harrison Ford, a grocer. Ford was a Captain in the Union Army, serving in the Kentucky 39th under the command of fellow-Pikevillian, Colonel John Dils. This remarkably intact building was constructed shortly after the Civil War, sometime betwen 1865 and 1870, and is of the Greek Revival style. The shape and proportions of this building are reminiscent of a Greek temple. Notice the fine example of a Palladian window at the attic level. Also notice the finely detailed gable returns.
You are now ready to proceed to the next destination of the tour. This is the York House, a grey wood sided house located behind a stone wall near the end of Main Street, just beyond Wells Motors. Look for the name York, designed into the iron gate. You may now turn off your tape player until you reach your next destination.
You should now be standing in front of the York House. This can be confirmed by locating the name "York" designed into the handmade, wrought iron gate. This fine home was built by Colonel John Dills, Jr. for his daughter Augusta and her husband, Judge James M. York, shortly after the end of the Civil War, sometime before 1870.
John Dils, Jr. came to Pikeville in the 1830's and as one of Pikeville's earliest entrepreneurs, developed the area's commercial riverboat trade. As noted earlier on the tour, in October of 1861, before enlisting in the Union Army, Dils was captured in Pikeville by Confederate Colonel John Williams and shipped as a prisoner of war to the infamous Libby Prison in Richmond, Virginia. Dils' wife soon arranged for his release and in February of 1862, he traveled to Washington, D.C., where he spent time as a guest of President Abraham Lincoln. Dils returned to Pikeville after his trip to Washington and restocked his store by steamboat and returned to life as a merchant under the protection of the occupying Union Army. In August of 1862, the Confederates raided Pikeville again, and Dils barely escaped. He made his way to Frankfort, where he succeeded in procuring guns for the purpose of arming the newly formed 38th Kentucky Regiment, Mounted Infantry. The Kentucky 39th, 700+ men strong, was mustered into service in February of 1863, under the command of the newly commissioned Colonel John Dils. Under Dils command, the Kentucky 39th fought many fierce battles in Kentucky, Virginia, and Tennessee.
This house is the earliest unmodified residence in Pikeville and is Pikeville's finest examples of frame italianate residential construction. It features a multicolored and patterned slate roof with metal ridge caps and crenalations. It incorporates a two-story polygonal bay with the overhanging eaves being supported by wooden corbels or brackets. Other notable architectural details are the paired truncated arched windows and the excellent stained glass. Considering that at the time when this house was built, people were still living in log cabin homes on Main Street, it can be appreciated as the truly marvelous structure which it is. As a point of interest, when this house was built, around 1870, the population of the thriving river village of Pikeville totaled 140.
The next destination on your tour is the R.T. Greer Root and Herb Warehouse. This structure, currently referred to as the Flat Iron Building is located on Hambley Boulevard, across from the 6 story Ridge Cliff Apartments. The shortest route is to walk 2-1/2 blocks through the alley to the left of the York House. You may now turn off your tape player until you reach your next destination.
You should now be standing in front of the Flat Iron Building.
Soon after the completion of the railroad from Ashland to Pikeville in 1905, the eastern end of downtown Pikeville became somewhat of a warehouse district. In 1912, R.T. Greer built the three story, flat iron shaped brick warehouse on an odd-shaped triangular piece of land. It was here that Greer purchased and stored roots and herbs to be shipped initially by rail and ultimately by oceangoing vessels to the far corners of the globe. Pike County has favorable soil and climate for growing medicinal roots and herbs, most notably ginseng and bloodroot. These natural botanicals are highly valued in the orient, and for many years provided a dependable source of income for Pike Countians. The 1930 journal of G.C. Ratliff observed that Mr. Greer's business flourished best when the coal mines were slow or down and the miners had time on their hands. They would go to the woods and dig ginseng primarily because it brought the best money. Ratliff's journal describes driving through Pike County and seeing the roofs of houses covered with roots and herbs drying in preparation for sale to R.T. Greer. It is not uncommon still today to see people in the woods digging ginseng, or as the practice is known, "sengin".
Hambley Boulevard is built upon the old C&O railroad bed, and the side of the Greer Root and Herb building facing the boulevard is where the loading dock was. The brick arched opening, where the main entrance to the building is currently located, is where the pallets of dried herbs and roots were loaded into the boxcars. Other notable architectural features include the brick arched windows and the corbelled brick false cornice around the top of the building.
The next destination on your tour in the warehouse district of Pikeville is the Odd Fellows Building. This combination warehouse/lodge hall incorporated a loading dock to the rear of the building, which was served by a spur siding of the railroad. The Odd Fellows Building is best viewed from the Second Street side and is near the corner of Pike Avenue and Second Street. It can be identified by the first floor tenant, Commonwealth Insurance. You may now turn off your tape player until you reach your next destination.
You should now be standing on Second Street in front of the Odd Fellows Building. This can be confirmed by looking at the third story stain-glass window which reads, "Pikeville Lodge No. 284 IOOF (or International Order of Odd Fellows).
This building was built in 1915 by the Pikeville Lodge of the International Order of Odd Fellows. Being an enterprising group of fellows, the Odd Fellows built this building with dual purposes in mind. It doubled as a meeting lodge on the third floor, and it paid for itself as a warehouse. Over the years, it has housed several different wholesale grocery companies.
Unfortunately, due to Second Street being so narrow, the wealth of fine architectural details of this building are seldom noticed or appreciated. The limestone coping cap at the top of the hard glazed brick building is supported by a corbelled brick cornice. The front facade is divided into three structural bays which are accentuated by paired engaged brick pilasters above the third floor windows. Between the sets of engaged pilasters, are three projected, rectangular brick tablets. A continuous limestone band near the base of the engaged pilasters, visually ties the three bays back together. The three bays are visually reinforced by the vertical continuity of the windows. The continuous limestone lintel above the third story windows is arched over the large stained-glass center window and prior to the unsympathetic street level remodeling, visually reinforced the main, central entrance to the building. The lintels for the second story windows consist of a continuous limestone band, which again unifies the three bays. The sills of the windows of the upper two stories are also limestone. Unfortunately, not much can be said regarding the current street level facade other than they should have left it alone. So much for "progress".
On the opposite side of Second Street from the Odd Fellows Building and next to the alley, is the best example Pikeville offers representing the "Art Deco" style. The roots of the Art Deco style sprung from the Paris Exposition of Decorative and Industrial Arts which was held in 1925. At the Paris Exhibition, there were pavilions from the major countries of the world which exhibited consumer products from automobiles, to toasters, to radios, to furniture and silverware. These products were all designed in a new "moderne" order, which was typified by clean, unornamented surfaces, with an accent of circular or radiused geometry. In recent years, the Art Deco section of Miami, Florida has undergone a well-publicized renaissance of restored Art Deco style hotels and restaurants. In the Miami Art Deco Section, there is an abundance of neon lighting accentuating the circular geometry of the buildings. The Weddington Theater marquee would fit right into the Miami scene. The ceiling of the auditorium of the Weddington Theater incorporates a floating, backlit, dropped radiused soffit which also exemplifies the Art Deco style. The Art Deco style is sometimes referred to as "Depression Moderne", since it was the prevalent style throughout the Great Depression.
The recent construction of a ten screen cinema in Pikeville upholds what appears to be a long history of the movie theater enjoyment. The first moving picture theater was built in Pikeville in 1905 and was called the Nicholodium. As you might suspect, the price of admission was 5 cents. The first moving picture shown in Pikeville was entitled, "Second Train Robbery". For many years, the moving pictures theater featured silent movies and employed talented piano players and violinists to lend spirit and drama to the production. The 1910 Sandborn Insurance Map of Pikeville indicates "2 Moving Pictures" written on the building which was then located just across the alley from the current location of the Weddington Theater. Considering that the moving picture industry was in its infancy at that point in time, it is a remarkable feat that Pikeville already had it own "twin cinema". In 1913, the existing theater was built. The 1925?30 Sandborn Insurance Map indicates the addition of a stage at the rear of the theater building, and juding from the existing Art Deco style facade of the front of the building, it is likely that the existing facade was added at the same time.
The next destination on your tour is the former The C & O Railroad Passenger Depot passenger terminal, which has recently been converted into the Pikeville City Hall. This building is located at the end of Caroline Avenue, next to Hambley Boulevard. On your way to the next destination, take time to appreciate the masonry details of other downtown retail buildings, especially above the marquee level. You may now turn off your tape player until you reach the next destination.
You should now be standing in at the main entrance to the Pikeville City Hall building, which was originally designed and constructed as the passenger terminal of the C&O Railroad.
The first steam locomotive arrived at Pikeville on July 5, 1905, pulling a string of glistening steel cars loaded with local public officials and dignitaries, who had journeyed to Ashland and rode the first train to Pikeville to celebrate the occasion. That red letter day for Pikeville marked the beginning of the end to the colorful, but unreliable steamboat traffic, upon which Pikeville had depended for over 60 years. The last steamboat traveling as far upstream as Pikeville, made the trip in 1929. And because of the railroad, disappeared forever.
Passenger use of railroad between Pikeville and Ashland steadily increased to the point that a passenger terminal became necessity. For decades, the train station was of the greatest local importance. It was here that all the significant arrivals and departures occurred during that long stretch of time, when the railroad was the main link with the rest of the world. This was a busy place, with high powered industrialists traveling from the north to conduct coal-related business. It was the point of arrival and departure of common folks and dignitaries alike, including First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt in 1934. It was her that not only thousands of unknown travelers, but also the famous, arrived and departed, including Sweet Georgia Brown, the celebrated socialite who spent her final years in Pikeville. It was from here that Pike County's young men left to fight on foreign soils, and it was here that they returned. Many of those return arrivals were an occasion for jubilation, and likewise, many were an occasion for sorrow. Being a place where Pike Countians experienced the entire spectrum of emotion, this was a special place.
Construction of the Chesapeake and Ohio Passenger Terminal was completed in 1923. The original complex consisted of the Main Passenger Terminal and the Baggage Depot, located to the left (and currently utilized as the Pikeville City Utilities Office). The two story buildings were originally connected by an overhead shed which protected the loading platform, waiting passengers, and baggage from the weather. The shed, constructed of wood and supported by cast iron columns, extended beyond the ends of both buildings and followed the gentle curve of the track. This long, gently curved, and highly functional component provided a visual continuity which gracefuly unified the two buildings. The train rails and shed were removed to make way for construction of Hambley Boulevard, which is constructed from end to end on the original C & O rail bed.
This building complex was designed in the "Classic Revival" style, with careful attention paid to the many architectural details. the main entrance is marked with what is known as a "pedimented portico". The word "pediment" refers to the tirangular-shaped front of the porch, which resembles that of a Greek temple. The word "portico" merely means "a porch supported by columns". In this case, as was mentioned earlier on the tour, the columns are of the "Ionic" order. This means that the column capitals are scrolled in the shape of ram horns. The half columns, which are constructed against the brick wall, are referred to as "engaged columns". The roof of this building is slate, and the copper gutters are "concealed" or recessed into the plane of the roof. The down spouts empty into cast iron "boots", which were necessary for durability. A heavy cornice surrounds the eave line of both buildings, and on the end of each building, the cornice visually creates additional "pediments". Your attention is drawn to the center of the pediments , where an ornate masonry "bulls eye" decorates the attic vents.
The brick pattern of both buildings is known as "Flemish Bond". Flemish Bond refers to the brick pattern where, within each course, every other brick is laid lengthwise (or in a "stretcher" position) and endwise (or in a "header" position). This pattern is often used where a masonry wall is at leas two bricks thick, and the "header" bricks bond the two layers of brick together. As you observed at the Post Office and the Hatcher Hotel Building, the corners of the buildings incorporate "rusticated brick quoins". Similar to the lintels over the first story windows of the Federal Courthouse, the lintels of both the windows and doors of this building are constructed with a "Jack" lintel which incorporates a "skew back" brick with a central Keystone of limestone. It is interesting to note that the blueprints for this building indicate that both the foundation and the concrete floors are reinforced with steel train rails. Evidently, C & O had an abundant supply and found it cheaper than using regular concrete reinforcing steel.
Incidentally, this is probably the most politically incorrect building in all of Pikeville. The blueprints of the building, dated 1922, not only indicate segregated waiting rooms for "coloreds" and "whites", the facility was also designed for segregated waiting rooms for men and ladies.
The next destination on your tour will be the corner of College Street and Elm Street which is located at the stop light beyond the City Park. On the way to this location, you will walk through the College Street Historic District. This Historic District was nominated for placement on the Department of Interiors National Register of Historic Places in 1983. The College Street Historic District was an early suburb of downtown Pikeville and contains 9 historical residences which were constructed in the late 19th century and the early 20th century. These homes are frame and brick in both the "Classical Revival" and "American Four Square" styles which typify the residential style of construction which prevailed at the turn of the century. "American Four Square" style utilizes a very basic and fundamental floor plan. This scheme incorporates a square floor plan with a central hall, serving four rooms on each floor. There is a room in each of the four corners of the square. The floor plans of several of the American Four Square homes that you will see in the College Street Historical District have been modified, with various rooms added to the basic "Four Square" scheme.
You may now turn off your tape player until you reach the intersection of College Street and Elm Street.
You should now be standing at the intersection of College Street and Elm Street.
Your attention is directed towards Peach Orchard Mountain to the York Mansion, which is built in a prominent location overlooking Pikeville. The York mansion was completed in 1918, and was built by Augusta Dils York, the daughter of John Dils, Jr., and her husband, Judge James M. York. This is the same husband and wife who, prior to the construction of the York Mansion occupied the York House at the end of Main Street, which you viewed earlier on the tour. It is interesting to note that James York was an attorney for both the Hatfields and the McCoy's, during the infamous Hatfield/McCoy Feud.
The York mansion is designed in what is known as "Eclectic Style". The term "Eclectic" means that it incorporates a combination of architectural details which borrow from a variety of styles. The wraparound porch, and the gently curved roof line reflect an understated opulence, which contrasts sharply with the stereotypical perception of the outside world of this part of the country at the time this fine home was constructed.
The foundation of the York Mansion is constructed of rusticated limestone, and the walls are cream colored brick set in dark mortar. The steeply-pitched roof appears to be constructed of clay tile, but is actually pressed sheets of tin in the form of clay tile. The interior of the mansion is highlighted with extremely fine wood detailing and is in remarkably original condition.
The York mansion is now the residence of Imogene Johnson, who at the annual Hillbilly Days celebration opens the mansion to the public. During the rest of the year, guided tours may be arranged by appointment.
The final destination on your tour is the Pikeville Collegiate Institute, which is located on the next block of College Street. Upon your arrival at this historic building, please take a moment to read the Historical Marker. You many now turn off your tape player until you reach the next destination.
You should now be standing in front of the Pikeville Collegiate Institute. As noted on the Historical Marker, the Pikeville Collegiate Institute was constructed in 1889. Six years prior to its construction, the Reverend Paul Hendricks established a Presbyterian mission church in the village of Pikeville. In his travels through the mountainous counties in and around Pike County, he observed that the many Common Schools taught younger children basic reading, writing, and arithmetic, but there were no high schools for those who wished to continue their education beyond the rudimentary basics. When Reverend Hendricks reported this condition to the Ebenezer Presbytery in Ashland, he present his vision for improving the continuing educational opportunities for the mountain children. A committee was appointed to assess the situation and the Reverend W.C. Condit was sent to tour the mountains to locate a place for an outreach school. Reverend Condit determined that Pikeville, the county seat of the largest county in Kentucky was the best site for the new institute. He reported back to the Presbytery in Ashland that Pikeville was not only a village of over 300 inhabitants, it was the largest and most prosperous in the region and was strategically located with access from the mountain counties of Virginia and West Virginia where the same paucity of educational facilities existed.
Ground for the school's building was purchased on November 1, 1888. Since the first classes were taught on September 16, 1889, apparently the Pikeville Collegiate Institute was fully constructed during the following ten months. This was quite a remarkable accomplishment considering that construction was not begun until the winter months, the brick for the building was fired on site, and the building incorporates an incredible amount of intricate brick detailing which challenges that of any building in the state. This phenomenal feat was accomplished without benefit of mobile scaffolding or modern hoisting equipment.
The school years was divided into three terms of 12 weeks each. Tuition was $8.00 per school term to be paid in advance, with an addition $1.00 per term being requested for coat and janitorial services. The first years, classes consisted of Kindergarten, C Grade, B Grade, A Grade, and Freshman Class. The Freshman Class consisted of those students who had successfully graduated from the Common School Program which had been provided by the Commonwealth of Kentucky. The total enrollment for the 1889 class years was 135 students. The first class graduated in 1891 consisting of 3 members: Mary Elizabeth Syck, Nona? Connolly, and Sidney Grey. Through the years, Pikeville Collegiate Institute evolved into Pikeville College, a four year Presbyterian College serving over 1,000 students per year.
The Pikeville Collegiate Institute Building was designated on the United States Department Of Interior's prestigious National Register of Historic Places in 1974.
The foundation wall is constructed of rusticated sandstone, with a smooth sandstone water table. On the front wall, to the left of the main entrance are two arched sandstone basement windows which utilize a sandstone Keystone. The continuous sandstone water table acts as a lintel for each of the basement vents located under the windows of the main building. Notice on the left side of the building, the lintel for the undersized basement door is a hand-tooled arch, sculpted from a single block of sandstone. The mortar of the foundation stone is tooled in what is referred to as a "beaded joint", which projects out from the face of the stone instead of being struck inward or recessed into the joint. This helps to shed rainwater from the joints of the foundation, which would otherwise saturate the relatively porous and soft sandstone. Use of a normally inset struck mortar joint would have resulted in accelerated deterioration, as a result of spalling of the sandstone from freeze/thaw cycles.
As noted on the Historical Marker, brick for the Pikeville Collegiate Institute was fired on site, utilizing clay from the riverbank. Accordingly, this brick is much softer than commercially fired brick made from clay from select deposits. The mortar joints of the brick portion of the exterior walls were originally struck flush with the brick for the same reason that a beaded joint was utilized for the sandstone foundation.
Notice that the overall wall surfaces are visually and structurally divided into vertical bays with the use of full-height, engaged pilasters between each window. Likewise, the walls of the main building are visually divided at the second floor level with a horizontal cornice supported with corbelled brick. This intricate treatment was only utilized on those walls of the main building which could be viewed from the street. If you will notice, the horizontal band of brick cornice terminates at he polygonal bay on the right side of the building, and at the rear corner on the left side. The same phenomenon occurs with the extremely intricate horizontal band of diagonally laid brick, which occurs with the extremely intricate horizontal band of diagonally laid brick, which occurs at the level of the window heads on both floors, expect on the right side, this detail terminates at the right front corner instead of continuing to the polygonal bay. The elaborate brick bunting arch (or eyebrow) detail over the windows of both floors of the front facade, are also used over the windows of the left side of the building which is facing downtown. The remainder of the windows are graced with either rusticated sandstone lintels or segmented brick arches employing a double course of brick laid in a rowlock pattern. If you look very closely, above each window, you will see a faint fan-shaped embellishment carved into the wood heads of the windows. Above the main entrance, a "Roman" (or a complete half circle) brick arch is utilized. The three courses of brick in the Roman Arch are a combination of brick laid in both "header" and "rowlock" pattern. A brick corbel is laid into the base, or "spring line" of the entrance arch.
The existing roof appears to be the original standing seam tin roof. Although in need of repair in a few isolated locations, this roof has served its job faithfully for over a century. That is quite amazing considering that the expected practical lifetime of roof systems utilizing today's so-called "modern materials", is 20 years.
Although the Pikeville Collegiate Institute Building has been suffering from increasingly failing health for the past three decades, there is hope on the immediate horizon. Largely through the untiring efforts of local preservations and the Pikeville Historic Preservation Board, the Pikeville Collegiate Institute Building will receive a new "lease on life". On April 14, 1995, the Kentucky Transportation Cabinet and Governor Brereton Jones announced that funding has been committed through the Federal I.S.T.E.A. Enhancement Program of the Federal Highway Administration. This grant, which requires 20% local funding, will be adequate to stabilize the building as require to prevent further deterioration. Currently, the vital effort is being made to assure that the 20% local matching moneys are raised in a timely fashion. Further information regarding this grant can be obtained by contacting Betsy Venters.
This concludes your walking tour of many, but by no means all, of Pikeville's historic structures. We sincerely hope that the buildings which you have viewed, and the information which you have received while taking your tour, has enhanced your appreciation of Pikeville's rich and colorful history. If your are motivated by your new awareness of the local history, please do not hesitate to become involved with the ongoing effort to help preserve this heritage. We ask that when your are finished, please rewind this audio tape and return it to the Pikevile Main Street Office, located in the Chamber of Commerce Office at 225 College Street across from the City Park. If you are interested in learning more about the many other points of historic interest in Pikeville and Pike County, you are encouraged to inquire with the Main Street staff when you return this tape. Thank you, and have a great day.
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