Headers "shortys" are one good way of improving the exhaust system. There are equal lengths (a bit harder to install) as well as full size headers (a pain ) but the installation is basically similar.

The car felt a lot stronger with this modification, I was told about 10 rear wheel Horsepower. Not too bad.

To change the headers it took us about four hours, (we ran into some hard bolts!). Next time it would take us less time!

This is all the tools we used :

1. a good set of wrenches.
2. a good set of ratchets, swivel ones would be helpful.
3. deep sockets are necessary for the flange bolts (where the headers meet the exhaust),
4. flexible extensions would make things a bit easier.

Safety:

1. The car must be raised up, the ideal would be on a hoist, but a set of ramps or / and jack stands, would do. This way it would be harder but hey, if we can do it so can you.
2. Remember when your car is raised up it should always have jack stands capable of holding the weight of the car, never use your jack to hold your car, while you work under it.
3. Make sure the car if cool - headers get really hot!
4. If you have mechanics gloves use them, not only your hands will be cleaner (your significant other will appreciate it!) but also you will save your knuckles.
5. Safety glasses are always a good idea.
6. Plan your work - it works better!

Tips

On the 5.0 Mustang the passenger side is harder than the drivers side, due to the smaller clearance.

When taking the stock headers off, remember how they came out, the new ones will go in the same way.

When installing the headers, make sure the two bolts in the headers are alined with the two holes in the exhaust flange.

Guide bolts would make things a lot easier when installing the headers, make them by cutting the heads of bolts with same tread as the stock ones. By hand, bolt them on the engine block then slide the gasket over top and then the headers.

When headers are installed is common to have to re - thigh all the bolts a couple of times in the first and second weeks.
 
 

Removal & Installation

Start by removing the spark plugs wires, if you have the stock wires they should be numbered, if not write down where they came from.

Remove the air intake hose, ( the big hose after the air flow sensor).

Remove the two emission hoses under the intake hose as well as the vacuum lines.

Check for other things that could be in the way and remove them.

Remember where every thing goes, if necessary write it down, take pictures, etc.

Loosen the header bolts.

Remove the engine supports (for lifting the engine out). Drivers side located on first two bolts, Passenger side last two bolts. We weren't able to reuse them with our new header. No problem there.

Loosen the oil dip stick, not necessary to remove it.

The header bolts should be all loose now, go under the car and loosen the flange bolts - disconnecting the headers from the exhaust. The passenger side header bolts will be covered by a exhaust sensor.

Unplug & remove the exhaust sensor on passenger side (drivers side is not in the way).

Remove all the header bolts and take the headers out, (work on one at a time).

Clean the engine block from gasket remains, with a putty knife and a green pad.

Install the new headers,  by hand tighten the first and last bolts.

Remember to install the new gaskets, by sliding them on the first and last bolts.

Make sure that all the holes and bolts mach, including the flange bolts. Some times a little persuasion might be called for.

When all the holes mach install all the bolts back, tightening them first by hand (loose), then slowly thighter.

Follow steps 10 - 1 in reverse order (in other words put every thing back in reverse other than when you removed it)

Double check every step of the way

Here's why we put the new performance headers. Bends every where!

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