Why should you frame your own needlework?  The best reason is that it can save you a great deal of money over having a professional framer-sometimes up to 50%! The other reason is that YOU will know it is framed correctly. You have spent many hours creating a beautiful work of art and will want it to last for many years, for your enjoyment and the enjoyment of others to come. You have created a legacy with your needle, and it deserves to be treated as such.

These hints and instructions are for heirloom framing, and although some minor alterations have been made for the home framer, they will insure that your piece will last through the years.

Please read all the hints and instructions through before you begin.

HINTS & GENERAL INFO ON FRAMING

If possible, always wash your piece before framing.  Dirt and oils from working the piece can discolor and deteriorate your piece over time.  Please check with your local needlework shop however, as some fabrics and threads are NOT washable: such as handpainteds, overdyeds, and teadyeds.  Silk threads also require special care.

Always iron your piece before framing with the piece face down on a padded surface.

It really doesn't matter what flavor of dental floss or color of buttonhole twist/carpet thread you use.

Do you like to enter your pieces in competition?  Frame it properly yourself, and you'll get extra points from the judges!

Your piece should never be directly against the glass-it must have room to "breathe' or it will rot over time.  Always use spacers or mat(s) if using glass, and allow extra clearance if your piece has beads or other embellishments.

Regular glass if preferable for heirloom framing. Nonglare glass is treated with an acid, which may not be completely removed even after cleaning, and therefore may damage your piece over time.

Never hand your framed piece directly in sunlight or in an area with drastic changes in heat or humidity. These will damage your piece over time, and quickly fade the colors.

Try to allow at least 3 inches on each side of your design for framing.  If you finish your design and don't have enough on the sides for framing, add a 2 inch strip of fabric to each side (doesn't have to be evenweave, can even be calico!) and use that to lace to. It will be hidden in the framing.

Once you become experienced at lacing, you may no longer have to pin your piece in place,  At that point you can lace one side, adjust your piece to center and then lace the other side.

Alpha board, which is made from recycled rags and looks like speckled cardboard, is completely acid free and the best mounting board for heirloom framing.  You must be able to lace without pinning to use alpha board.

Please do NOT use sticky board for mounting.  It will rapidly deteriorate and ruin your piece, and if you have to adjust your piece during framing, it may literally rip out the fabric or stitching threads. Think of what happens to scotch tape over time-how it cracks, hardens, yellows, and then just lets go. You definitely don't want this near your beautiful needlework!

FRAMING  INSTRUCTIONS

Clean your work surface and wash your hands.  Place your piece face down, and center acid free foam core mounting board on the top of your piece. Pin along the outside edge-leaving pins sticking out along the edge and placing every 1/4 to 1/2 inch-until pleased with the results. At this point your piece will look like it's having a bad hair day! Thread a needle with a long length of dental floss, buttonhole twist or carpet thread.  Fold fabric toward back on top and bottom of piece. Securely tie thread to corner near edge of piece, and lace back and forth, going top to bottom, inserting needle every 1/4 to 1/2 inch.  Securely tie off thread, and repeat lacing procedure from side to side.  Remove pins. Place frame right side down onto table, insert glass and clean. Insert spacers, if used, onto each side with sticky edge to the frame.  Insert mats, if used, into frame and then place piece into frame stitched side down. Turn your piece over and check carefully to make sure no dust or fuzzies have are visible from the front.  Using a staple fun, place staples every 2-3 inches into frame- NOT INTO PIECE, leaving them sticking out a short way.  Press staples down firmly to hold piece in place. Use a pencil to trace frame onto framing paper (looks like brown butcher's paper), and cut out a slightly smaller size.  Glue to frame using tacky glue, and let dry.  Hand dampen paper back with water, and dry with blow drier to tight.  Screw in eyelet screws 1/3 way down from the top of the frame at the widest part of the frame.  Attach hanging wire, twisting about 2 inches onto itself from the eyelet screw.  Wire should stretch to within 1/2 way from top of frame.  Glue a 1/2 inch circle of felt to each bottom back corner of the frame.