It's good to see our Texan
seancers come out ok from Brett. That thing was pretty nasty. Everybody is
talking about how it's such a great thing that the hurricane didn't hit
Corpus Christy, but I bet when the pictures start coming in, we'll see how
hard Joe Texan who wasn't fortunate enough to live in the city really got
hit. That was a mean, powerful storm.
That being said, they haven't seen a thing! My memories of Hurricane
Andrew are a little dimmed by the years (after all, that was August of
'92), but I know that Brett doesn't even hold a candle to Andrew. There
are still thousands of pine trees leaning over all around south Miami and
Homestead. Perhaps you saw them when you went to the Everglades. Perhaps
you never thought much of it if you did see them. Those pines used to
stand straight and tall. I don't remember seeing a tree left unscathed on
our entire campus, when I walked outside the day after.
Yeah, that's right, the day after (ever see that movie? Reagan was going
to kill us all in a nuclear war with Russia, but if you lived in Kansas,
apparently you were especially fucked. What a comforting thought to a
middle schooler like me...then of course there was that Pink Floyd song
off the Final Cut about watching two suns in the sunset. Ok, I'm
digressing...). At the time Andrew was barreling toward the FL coast, I
had a choice of where I could hunker down and face the storm. It was frosh
orientation week at U of Miami, and I didn't have to be in my on-campus
apt. right away. However, I knew that all of my apt-mates would be coming
down on the first day they were allowed to move in, just to get settled
and reacquainted with school. Andrew was at a pretty high latitude, but it
was steering straight towards S. FL. Conventional wisdom says the storm
should have turned north at least a little, and I tried to tell my mom
that if Andrew was going to hit FL, then I would be safer in one of the
campus' 12 story concrete dorms than I would be in our wood frame house in
Vero Beach. She bought into my pleadings and drove me down to Miami,
dropping me off against all common sense in the very spot the category
five hurricane was headed straight towards. Later she told me that the
drive home in traffic ended up being a seven hour drive due to evacuation
traffic (it should have taken her only three hours on a normal day).
Dropped off in Miami with my hurricane survival supplies (jugs of water,
flashlight, candy bars and other items that didn't have to be cooked, and
our naivete, which of course would be enough to see us through), we made
our hurricane preparations by putting our boxes of stuff in the
apartment's big closet. My mates wanted to see the storm through in the
apt, but I thought they were nuts, so I asked a good friend if I could
stay in his dorm on the 12th story of my old dorm building. I knew that
there at least I would be in a place with lots of people in case something
bad happened. Also, all the dorms had hurricane shutters which was a bit
comforting. That night, I settled down alone with my bottle of peppermint
schnapps (ick!) and watched the local news getting quite a buzz as I
watched the storm continue its track straight for us. By about midnight
the storm was hitting the Bahamas and was heading straight for us still,
the feeder bands were beginning to lash us and through the windows I could
see the trees (and buildings it seemed) swaying in the wind and the rain
pounding on the windows. It passed the bahamas around 2:30 am, and all tv
signals went out, so I had to switch to my radio. Still it was headed
straight for us, and already we were getting lashed by hurricane force
winds. The winds were howling so much that I decided to close my hurricane
shutters. I had heard stories of people opening hurricane shutters and
having the pressure difference cause their windows to explode, but I was
too curious, so I opened the windows back up to look outside for one last
time. Through the darkness, I could see nothing but rain and hear nothing
but wind. I closed the hurricane shutters for the last time. Not long
after that we were all in darkness, my buzz was waning, and there was no
radio, no tv, just darkness and this horrible howling sound like all the
winds of pandemonium outside circling the building. One could almost
imagine the building walls shaking.
It was about 4:30 am when the RA and other autocrats forced us out into
the hallways where we might have been safer if the whole building should
collapse. I brought out my pillows and blankets and tried to rest, but I
didn't want to sleep. I didn't want to miss any of it. I had secretely
hoped when I convinced my parents to bring me down to Miami that I would
be in the middle of the most powerful hurricane ever known to S. FL. I
felt that this was a once in a lifetime experience, and one I wanted to
face on my own.
All around me were mostly freshmen and some parents who couldn't make it
out of Miami airport in time or had flights planned for the coming days.
Everyone was quiet, so that those who wanted to sleep could, plus, we all
wanted to hear it...but of course, how could you not? All I was conscious
of was the constant howling that surrounded us and reverbrated through the
hallways. By five thirty I was drifting in and out of consciousness with
the rest of the student body. We had been getting pummeled for an hour and
there was a kind of peace to the deep, hollow sound everywhere around us.
By seven, the winds had died down considerably and although it was almost
pitch black in the hallways, it was light outside the RA said. We were
told we could return to our rooms, but that we couldn't leave the building
until it was safe to go outside.
Well, I was having none of that. After all, I was a senior. Fuck getting
herded around like a freshman. As the hallway cleared and everyone opened
their hurricane shutters to see what little they could see of the campus
from their tiny dorm windows, I made my plan to escape. I knew the
stairwell was my only hope. All the other exits were guarded, so to speak,
but there was a chance that they would ignore the obvious. So, after about
an hour of contemplation and getting up the nerve, while no one was
looking I locked the door to my friend's dorm and quietly entered the
stairwell. As I passed each floor, I tried to imagine what I would see if
I was able to escape the dorm. Was my apartment still there? Were my
apartment mates ok...or even alive? I came to the bottom of the stairwell.
The door had blown open and water was an inch deep on the concrete floor.
I began to dread my decision...did I really want to know? But the same
desire that made me talk my parents into bringing me down to Miami
hopefully to be caught in the heart of the storm, that fatalistic
curiosity made me walk through the stairwell door.
As cliched as it may sound, I use this phrase because it is exactly what
came to mind when I walked outside and wandered across the campus:
stepping outside was like walking onto another planet...I was on a
different earth, a landscape chaotic and mangled with a different sky,
that in its swirling bands of clouds and gusting winds mirrored the chaos
and destruction visible everywhere on the ground. I became convinced that
those really were the winds of Pandemonium I had heard in the early
morning hours as the power shut off and we were plunged into darkness.
Our campus had been a tropical paradise...palm trees grew everywhere and
huge 100 year old Banyan trees with all their myriad of roots stood like
tangled iron anchored in the soil. Over the years as hundreds of
Floridians lost their pet parrots, a wild population formed, and I used to
watch them green and chirping, gathered in the treetops of the oaks and
banyans. As I walked around the campus that morning though, still
experiencing tropical storm force winds in gusts, I heard no birds and saw
that not a single tree on our campus was left untouched or even standing.
I walked the path I would be taking to class that year, the path I had
taken since coming there as a freshman in '89, and the first clump of
palms and banyans I came to (what used to be a shady place by the lake to
stop, pause, lay down and read or sleep or play an instrument, make an
architectural drawing, or talk with a friend), that first clump of palm
trees was completely uprooted and tossed about the grass, or over the path
in sections, and the big banyan tree with its myriad of roots dangling in
the air, hung upside down still desperately clinging to the earth but
otherwise half of it was bent over into the lake.
That was the scene everywhere. Every landmark that had once stood on that
campus that was of any living thing was either gone or ripped apart. There
wasn't a tree that a branch left unbroken, or a palm with a frond left
unsnapped. In front of the architecture and biology/chemistry buildings
had been a beautiful circular fountain inset into a geometrically square
forest of queen palms. It was front and center on just about every mailing
the university ever sent me. You would see it on commercials during the
football games, you would see it on postcards and course schedules and
handbooks and on stationary. That morning the fountain was just a dirty
pool with battered and uprooted palm trees haphazardly tossed into it,
criss-crossing each other in an impossible array of tangled trunks. It was
as if some bored giant child had picked them up one by one and broken
their trunks like twigs, then tossed the flinders about as he lost
interest with his broken toy and uprooted another one, over and over until
there was nothing left to break or to play with.
Having made my trip around the campus and wondering how they would ever
open up for classes again, I noticed that there were already sounds of
chainsaws in the air, and campus handymen were already going through the
beginnings of their hurricane contingency plans, cutting down every branch
that hadn't been ripped off the oak trees around campus. There weren't
many of them, and I knew that their work would be long and hard and take
weeks. I headed over to my apartment, and as I approached the part of
campus that held our old army barracks turned student housing. I saw that
the grass was not only covered in sticks and branches, but also roofing
material...tiles everywhere like large chunks of confetti. Many of the
buildings had at least one window out, I could see. As I looked up to ours
on the third floor of a three-story building overlooking the (my) sand
volleyball courts, I saw that we, too, had lost a window, but otherwise
the building still stood. In the grass, just beyond our balcony and the
concrete base, a huge oak branch with several smaller branches and all its
leaves lay ominously at my feet.
Glad to be in the place that I had first called home the day before, I
climbed the stairwell to the front door and knocked. Neal opened the door
bleary-eyed, apparently he had been sleeping. I saw that they had
mattresses on the living room floor and water was all over the carpet by
one window that had been blown open and the tile in the dining area where
another window had shattered. Neal told me that they had barricaded
themselves in the hallway with the mattresses when the hurricane hit. Neal
said it was so loud they couldn't hear each other talk, not just because
of the wind, but because the huge windows on either side of the living
room and the front door rattled all night as if they were going to burst
open. He said that something had been thumping against the front door for
a short time that seemed like it would break it down, so I told him about
the branch that was on the ground not far from the balcony. We figured
that the branch must have been blown into the balcony and gotten wedged in
the curly concrete patterns of the balcony wall and banged against the
door until it dislodged.
Apparently at some point in the evening, one of the windows in front of
the living room had given away and the pressure difference created caused
the one directly opposite it by the dining area to shatter. They only
heard it as a loud noise from behind their barricade and thought the front
door must have been blown open. Apparently, at that point, it was so loud
inside the apartment with the windows blown open, that they had no idea
exactly what was going on behind their barricade. They wouldn't peek for
fear of having shards of glass fly into their face. They just hoped
something would still be left. Of course, everybody survived ok, and
nothing got sucked out of the apartment, but everything in the living had
gotten a good soaking before I got there, and continued to get one through
most of that day.
Of course power was out and there was no running water and the campus was
full of students and parents, so there was quite an emergency on the
campus' hands. Fortunately, they were prepared very well to handle the
situation, and by that evening, I had my first meal outside the cafeteria,
prepared by cafeteria workers and volunteers with what gas equipment they
could muster. We all sat outside and ate, students and parents, feeling
somewhat like refugees, knowing of course that school would not be
starting on time (if there would even be a semester at all!) but not
knowing how or if we would be able to get home.
Back at the apartment, we used our water sparingly. To take a shower we
would get a pan and fill it with water, dunk a cloth into it and wash
ourselves, then pour what was left over us to rinse off. To use the
toilet, we would have to refill the tank with more of our water. We
were'nt sure if we were going to have enough to last. Some of us,
including myself, knew that we would be stuck in the apartment for at
least a few days. I called my parents up and they said they wouldn't be
able to come get me for three days because of work. I was glad because I
wanted an adventure. There was a strange quiet about the place that night
as we went to sleep and slept very, very soundly.
The next day, when we woke up we found that not only did we have running
water, but we also had electricity coming into our building. So much for
the adventure. What was bizarre was that the adjacent building, connected
to ours by our shared balcony, didn't have either of those luxuries.
(Later on we found out that ours was the only building on campus and one
of the few in the area, period, that had either running water or
electricity for the first three days! How lucky!) So, we generously let
our neighbors (all good friends of ours) take showers in our apartment and
strung extension cords across the balcony so that they could share the
benefits of electricity, which meant watching tv to see what had happened
to our city...all of that which is now part of the history books...the
storm surge that rushed through people's beach houses up to six to eight
feet high from the marks left by the water in some buildings...the
absolute flattening of Homestead by tornados spawned withing the eye
wall...trees thrust through houses killing a few unfortunate people, etc.
That day we went shopping. Yes, amazingly the drug store across the street
was open for business, and we bought supplies like water and chips and
cookies and such. Afterward, we defied local authorities and went on our
little joyride to survey the damage. Driving through Coral Gables, many
streets were still blocked off by fallen trees and people were out,
braving the danger of fallen power lines, using chainsaws to section off
the countless fallen trees. It amazed me how many huge and ancient banyan
trees had been torn out of the ground. I remember one image of one that
was leaning at a thirty degree angle to the ground with all the sod of the
entire lawn lifted up and hanging onto the roots in the air like a huge
green tent. There was another banyan that was sitting in the second second
story bedroom of a very well to do Coral Gables' family. Everyone suffered
from Andrew, but although the once neat and tidy Coral Gables was now a
twisted and tangled forest of uprooted trees, fallen power lines and
streetlights strewn across the streets all caused by 160 mph gusts of
wind, the destruction I witnessed was nothing like what we all saw of
Homestead on TV.
Driving around Miami, everything was surreal. People were suddenly
happy??...they were waving in the streets, smiling??...at intersections
where streetlights were laying on the street or hanging inoperable people
were actually stopping and conducting themselves as they would at a four
way stop??...and there were so few cars on the road on a weekday in
Miami...unreal...US1 deserted, businesses vacant and no looters. Although
we didn't drive down to Homestead (we didn't want to interfere or get in
the way of relief efforts), we did drive south on US1 far enough to see
all those hundreds and thousands of tall pine trees all bent a good 10 to
20 degrees to the west, as I bet they still must lean today. I wish I had
the pictures that we took a month later when the campus reopened. Wow.
So, most of the rest of my adventure was uneventful. Each of us boarded
planes or got whisked away by relieved parents and taken home. We were
told that the university would keep us updated on plans to reopen campus.
Just in the four days that I was there, they had already made incredible
progress in cleaning up the campus. Even the city was looking much
improved by the time I left. Of course, how could it not have when every
plumber, roofer, electrician, carpenter, etc from here to Canada who
wanted some big bucks and time to play away from the wife and kids came
pouring into the city. You would see them everywhere for months. I
remember the national guard filled a whole section of the Orange Bowl at
one of our football games, and it wasn't long after that that one of those
guardsmen killed two FIU and one U of Miami student after getting picked
up by them and taken barhopping. Very sad, but not the first students
murdered in my four years there. I guess that Miami will always be Miami
in some ways, hurricane or no.
I remember, too, how the campus looked upon my return...like it had been
given a really bad haircut that it might never recover from. So many trees
with sawed off branches or none at all. Palms standing like bare
toothpicks pointing accusingly into the sky, all trunks and no
fronds...our beautiful fountain still able to shower me with spray lying
down and reading after classes but all that set in a geometrically square
forest of toothpicks...I couldn't help but think of Baudelaire and his
forest of symbols every time I lay there...
La Nature est un temple ou de vivants piliers
Laissent parfois sortir de confuses paroles;
L'homme y passe a travers des forets de symboles
Qui l'observent avec des regards familiers
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At some point I guess, I have to stop and go to bed.
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