Introduction

This is just a quick write-up on how I build and detail some of my models.. I hope to compile this into a nicer format sometime in the future. In the meanwhile, here goes..

My Basic Building Process
Here’s how I generally build my kits (so I won’t have to bore you by repeating them over and over.)

1) full assembly *without* glue
This is to identify which areas need seam-filling, painting, extra work, modifications, etc.

2) Re-building of kit step-by-step doing the necessary seam-filling,… modifications, etc. at each step where required.

Basically I paint all the ‘internal-skeletal’ parts as well as the outer armor. Some guys prefer to fix the poses of their models (by pouring glue into the joints) but I prefer to built mine maintaining full poseability and internal details.

RX-93 Nu-Gundam
I used the Gundam Color set from Gunze Sangyo for the main colours - it comes with white, dark blue (almost black) and yellow.

First, The internal skeleton was airbrushed with ‘steel’ (also Gunze) and drybrushed over for a brushed metal look.

Then I airbrushed Mr.Surfacer500 on all the armor parts which gave it a very rough texture. Next I airbrushed the dark blue on all the armor - the set only comes with 1 bottle of this color but if you use it really sparingly you will have *just* enough.

Next, airbrush the other colours on using the ‘MAX-technique’ which is basically to concentrate your spray at the middle of the flat areas so that the outer edges are darker (because of the dark blue base).

When the colours were almost there (1 or 2 coats more), I did the panel lines using a 0.05 micron pen. Then I applied the last 2 coats with carefully airbrushing close to the lines. This ensures the lines aren’t too dark and unrealistic.

Model was then coated with a clear-flat topcoat.

*CONFESSION* This is actually my first model using a primer.

MS-18E Kampfer
No primer used on the Kampfer.

I like the colour in the plastic so I mixed 2 Gunze Paints to get a similar result (sorry but I can’t remember which ones anymore).

After airbrushing, drybrushing and detailing the internal skeleton, I airbrushed all the armor in their primary color.

I didn’t know any "MAX-technique" at the time but I tried something similar… I dripped a few drops of black into the primary colours after I finished and then carefully sprayed over some of the raised details and seams to give it some shading.

I tested several paints to find the best for the intakes. I ended up using "MODEL MASTER: Brass Non-Buffing Metalizer (for airbrush only)" for that purpose. It gives a very realistic metallic finish, but unfortunately rubs off if handled too much, so it’s okay for the vents but not for huge surfaces like outer armor (unless you intend to seal your model in a showcase of some sort).

Panel lines were done using a water-based modelling pen from Bandai. It’s got a brush-like head and says GM20 on the label. It was applied and then quickly wiped off gently. This was done carefully to the seams as well so as to enhance the shading.

MS-07B3 Gouf Custom
No primer used here.

This was my second model using the "MAX-technique" (see Nu write-up above)… the first was the original gouf.