1.) How did you get into GSDs and why did you choose GSDs? Was the GSD the first purebred breed you owned? Ken & I got into GSDs in 1971 when l bought a male GSD puppy for Ken for his birthday. Unfortunately, this one died a few months later, so naturally we went right out and got another GSD, this time a sable female puppy. We had always wanted a purebred Shepherd, and earlier in our marriage we had a Shepherd male but who knows if he was purebred. He was a free one out of the newspaper. One day he just disappeared (someone stole him from our backyard). The reason we chose GSDs is that we both admired them and also maybe a small influence was that Ken’s sister and brother-in-law had one: an import from Germany (Panzer) and our brother-in-law was in the Army and got him direct from Germany. He was a tough male – but we eventually took him here in his old age until he died. We lived in the country and I needed protection and Shepherds were our first choice, although for a couple of years in the 70s we had a Doberman and a litter of pups. But she was just too nervous and needed heated facilities. So we had to make a choice of which breed we would keep, and as you can see GSDs won. Our first litter of quality that we felt showable (out of our first bitch – the sable I mentioned) had 7 pups, of which we kept 1 female, and we started going to fun matches to see what this whole show world was about. She always won her class, and a few Best of Breed wins. Well, to say the least, "we were hooked" Although in the end this girl didn't work out, we went on to yet another female.

2.) When did you first start showing GSDs? When we got another female, it was because our sable had X-rayed dysplastic in one rear leg. We gave her to my aunt and uncle who had her operated on. She lived for 15 years. We got another female, this time a black and tan Zeus daughter who was about 4 Months old when we got her. Her name was Empress Hera of Nordlicht – lovely girl but not quite good enough to show. So, what do you do then? Try breeding her, and we did. We bred her to Ch Ravenhaus Noah.  This litter produced gorgeous puppies: 2 champions came from that breeding. So we of course repeated it – twice. Empress gave us 4 champions and many other qualifiers, so she attained the coveted ROM title! And she was OFA good on both ends. We had her put down at nearly l4 years of age as senility set in.   It was a sad day here.  So to ask when we actually started showing GSDs, it was about 1972 for point shows, but we attended many shows and matches before that just to learn and listen.., and I read and read and read anything I got my hands on about GSDs.

3.) When did you breed your first homebred champion and who was it? I think I just answered this question. The year was 1979 and the dog was American, Canadian ,Dominican, Puerto Rican, Philippine, International, Bermuda, Champion Solomon Beau Enki (we believe this is the most titles for a male GSD in history and he may have more).  His sire was Ch. Ravenhaus Noah and his dam was our Empress Hera of Nordlicht ROM.

4.) Of all your many wins, which one had the greatest meaning to you? It's hard to say which of the many wins had the greatest meaning to us. That's a tough one! I guess the year that Avia went Sel #3, and her litter sister Prima (at the same National) went Winners Bitch, Best of Winners and Select #4 right behind her. That was a high! That National is replayed in our minds.   It's a breeder's dream!

5.) Who has had the greatest influence an you with regard to breeding and showing? I guess the greatest influence on us in regard to the "breeding and showing of GSDs" aspect goes, is a combination of people and top dogs bloodlines We don't mean to leave anyone or dog out, but few names would be the dogs, Hawkeye, Trollstigen, Aspen, Mannix of Fran–Jo, Andretti , Allways A Lady, and Stockbroker.  I loved their type and great movement.  And as far as people (or kennels) we tried to have dogs like, they would be: Amber’s (Barbara Amidon), Fran-Jo (Fran & Joan Ford), Cobert’s (Ted & Connie Beckhardt), Covy-Tucker Hill (Cappy Pottle & Gloria Birch), and the original Clayfield (Alice Likens & Sharon Earl).  We believed these all produced dogs of character, type, movement, quality and good minds.  It's hard to get all this in one package, but these are just some names, to mention a few. As we said, we don't mean to leave anyone or dog out.

6.) Which of your dogs had the greatest impact an you? This is another tough question.  As far as what we are today. we'd have to give that title to our great girl 2x Sel. Ch. Ken-Delaine’s Avia ROM. You can still see her in her grand kids. We cannot leave out her mother, Ch. Janry’s Givency ROM (new ROM), who gave us Avia, along with the great litter that Avia came from: Avia, Prima, Puma, Primero and several great others.  Avia and Givency just received their ROMs!  We are so proud of them! Thanks to Henry and Jane Dancosse for selling us "Gia" (Givency).

7.) Other than one of your own dogs, has there been a GSD that had impact you? There are several dogs that have had impact on us, but to narrow it down to one seems unfair to the others.  It's a large genetic pool. But, we again were impacted (in our breedings) by dogs such as Hawkeye (we’ve line bred on him), Aspen, Lance, but the Hawkeye line.

8.) What differences can you see between, the GSDs of today and those you first started out with? This is an easier question. Our dogs of today are definitely different, more e1egant, angulated, better fronts (so hard to get today), and rear to match. They are prettier today, more athletic. All and all, better movers. The ones in our beginning were more "boxy," not elegant, and didn’t have the top line or underline of what we have today.

9) Do you feel the breed has improved or deteriorated? Why? On the overall, we think the breed has improved. It’s a more beautiful breed now, more athletic. More conscious about good X-rays (hips and elbows). Our National, Futurities and Specialties now certainly tell us that you better have a super one to win, at least at Specialties and Futurities (in most cases). So we feel most of us breeders of today are striving to leave this breed better than we found it. It has improved, that is our opinion.

10.) What do you, see as the greatest attribute in GSDs today? The greatest attribute? This is a complex question. I think its character. Our (the country’s) dogs show with pride (in most dogs) and athleticism. We work our dogs so they can have lots of endurance. So the character and movement (fronts) are the attributes. Our breed has to be one of proud character and nobility. This comes from good minds, self-confidence, attitude, and total fitness and soundness.

11.) What you see as the most serious problem in GSDs today? Where do we start? First, we guess it would be that the breed is losing its good shoulder, no openings, loss of front reach - it is hard to attain, but easy to lose if you choose the wrong breeding. Balance to cover ground with the fewest steps. Next, follow-through. We hate the "new fad" statement "locked hocks." This is pure and simple no follow-through! Most of all, we need more good males to breed to. There are far too few, and the fact that sizes are out of hand on males. What happened to the standard? If a dog is a good one, and in standard size, use him. Keep your good movement and minds. We are not breeding Great Danes or Horses, they are GSDs. Look at the Standard, not only breeders, but judges. Minds are important too. They can’t all be show dogs, so the pet buyers should be considered when breeding too. They must have good minds in all aspects. Even though every dog can get his (bad) day in the ring, show dogs live a stress filled life. Remember that! We’ve all had those bad days. Be honest (about temperament), we have!

12.) What diet tips can you give? We feed lamb and rice food. Try to stay away from high fat diets, not good for GSDs. Also our studs, show and brood stock, especially studs and show dogs, get Vitamin B Stress Tabs daily, mix a good daily Vitamin with their food. We feed our adults two times daily; puppies always have dry kibble available, but get two moist meals a day. Our adults always get moist meals, and lots of dog cookies and biscuits – they love ’em! Keeps teeth cleaner too. We don’t feed pups high protein can cause problems. By 2 ½ months, they are on no higher then 21% and adults no more than 23%, all lamb or turkey and rice. We also cook rice and mix moist meals makes it more digestible.

13.) What grooming tips can you give? Give out trade secrets? Ha! Lots of combing (no slicker brushes as they break hair), so we use a metal comb. When the dogs are shedding, we strip out with a horse stripper and metal comb. Then we bathe with an oatmeal shampoo and oatmeal crème rinse or conditioner. Blow drying can be an art depending on how much coat they have. This also takes out dead undercoat once they start to blow coat. Two or three warm baths should get rid of dead hair, and lots of combing! We don’t use a lot of grooming spray before they’re to go in the ring, and if we use it, it's only minutes before they enter the ring so they sparkle. Clean ears and short toenails are very important. Toenails are hard to keep up on, but if you do it every week and a half, it keeps it under control. Good nutrition and combing makes the job easier when its show time. Lots of creme rinse (even the cheap stuff) makes hair comes out easier when it’s dried (leave creme rime on 5-10 minutes).

14.) Fifty years from now, what would you like to be remembered for?? Years from now we would hope that people remember our names for having left the breed better than when we came in. That we had a certain goal in mind and we met that goal, trying to achieve a certain type, movement, improving fronts and rears, and most of all, that we did it with lots of hard work, dedication, and along the way, heartbreak, but also lots of joy!

15.) If you could do it all again, what would you do differently? Why?? We’d probably take a shorter road to success - - Ha! We’d probably start with the best bitch we could afford, and hire a top handler (like Ken Tank). And we did eventually (get that compliment, Mr. Tank?). Anid we did have lots of success with Ken Tank and still are, and I hope he feels the same in that department. It’s been a good working relationship. We’d hope someone would trust a new comer with a "good one" as we’ve done with some of our good animals, and hope they’d take some time to try to teach us the breed, not just there for the dollar signs.

16.) What single piece of advice would you give to the novice today? Our advice would be: never start out with a male they're few and far between to get a good one (one that people will use), and the promotion of a male is expensive, and breedings are hard work. It takes more input than a novice can imagine. So our piece of advice is this... start with the best bitch your money can buy, whether you lease one, or buy a topnotch brood bitch. Bitches (good ones) are the foundation of any great breeding kennel. Then read, read, read. From there, believe in the breeder of the bitch for advice of breeding her to a producing male- one that has already produced good offspring. NO male can put out good puppies without being bred to a good bitch, yet the male gets the blame for faults. Unfortunately, he also gets credit for the good offspring too, but you will be the breeder. This will put you ahead from the beginning. Bottom line it START WITH A GOOD BITCH OR BITCHES!, and listen.

As has been the case for years, most of the bitches, both in the classes or Best of Breed competition, are of superior quality; in movement, they are more effortless in their gait as they have less to carry around the ring. Overall, bitches have always been of better quality than males - and I think I speak for almost everyone as we, Ken-Delaine Shepherds, have now had both females and males in competition ourselves.

Our "National" specialty show is only one example. We go to specialty shows with these same gorgeous, moving bitches and try to compete for Best of Breed. Even when your bitch out moves and out classes the male, chances are she will go "Best Opposite Sex". It’s just a practice and a precedent that has been set. But, it’s not right!

I believe that it is pretty sad; an inferior male goes Breed and a superior bitch goes Best Opposite. Where are the guts behind our judges (and God forbid if a judge owns the male animal) - that the bitch, in most cases, may be better IS going Best Opposite! We all know that "going Best Opposite" is like kissing your sister.

We (the country) have some gorgeous bitches, but the percentage of Breed wins over the males is small - why is that?

Why don’t more judges go with their hearts instead of bowing to the pressure of another judge outside the ring? Judges need to be able to sleep well that night after the decision they made that day. JUDGE DOGS, NOT PEOPLE. Most of all. judges, BE FAIR.

We all complain that women do not get pay or treatment equal to men. Well, neither do the bitches in our breed. A good male will get bred to without Breed wins if he’s a good producer as evidenced by his puppies.

The bottom line is this: in general, bitches are and have been of better quality than the males. A Best Opposite is like a pacifier it shuts us up but doesn’t satisfy. If the girl is better, then give her the Breed, whether it be from specials or from the classes. At times, it’s so obvious to the ringside that the male is going Breed because he’s a male, NOT because he’s a better dog. Judges don’t get more assignments when they go a bit sideways, if you know what I mean; they get fewer assignments. It’s a proven fact in years past.

Bitches have been the backbone of our breed and I believe they deserve some credit. It’s due time.

Simple Style Sharing knowledge learned through years of trial and error and experience is an age-old tradition. We now bring this tradition back to the German Shepherd world, experience, success and love for their dogs have shaped the lives of the breeders that will be featured in this series, these breeders are kind enough to share with us how they care for their dogs. in this issue, Ken & Delaine Thomson, of Ken-Delaine’s Kennels, welcome you into their lives.

The way we feed

We feed Nutra Nuggets, mainly lamb and rice, as it is very easily digestible. We also feed a mix of lamb and rice, as well as chicken and rice to some of our dogs. We don’t like feeding more than 23 - 26% protein as that is too high for adults and can produce problems such as hot spots. We feed vitamins, and add garlic powder to the food. We always feed it moist, soaking it at least one-half hour, and, we don’t add any additives such as canned food or meat. We also don’t feed eggs or poultry items as they can cause severe allergic reactions. There is a difference in what we feed our show dogs and non-show dogs. The show dogs have mostly lamb and rice meal with vitamin B stress formula and regular vitamins. Our non-show dogs, who aren’t as stressed as the ones that fly or go to dog shows, get a mix of the two types of food named above. In the past, we have tried several different dog foods, but we like what we are on now. We have good stools and good weight on Nutra nuggets. We have tried Field and Farm, Dealers Pride, Handlers Choice and other name brands, but we are staying with the Nutra nuggets because of the lamb and rice digestibility

The way we house

We have a combination of inside and outside runs. Our kennel building isn’t heated, as we have pretty mild winters, with the average temperatures 40-50 degrees. We do not have air-conditioning either because the average summer isn’t that outrageously hot, with most days about 70-85 degrees. We use cedar sawdust in the sleeping areas (most of them). The ones off the kennel building have wood floors that are removable pieces, easy to sterilize and clean regularly. Our surfaces in our kennels are mainly patio blocks covered by cedar sawdust. A couple of the runs are solid cement covered with cedar sawdust. We have tried cement runs, but find that it is smelly, doesn’t drain well and dogs get sore feet or bad feet (which we don’t have). We also don’t use fir or any other kind of sawdust as it doesn’t cut down on smells, or help with any flea problems like cedar does. We rarely have flea problems here now. We do have to add some fresh sawdust daily, and completely change it bi-weekly. This means truckloads brought in and put into the building where we store it, and we then haul buckets of it to the runs. Although this is a drawback, it’s still the best surface as far as we are concerned. We have a regular schedule for cleaning, two times a day (9 am and 5:30 pm), and we disinfect all runs weekly or more if needed.

The Way We Groom

We wash or bathe our dogs that are being shown a couple of times a month if they are actively showing (sometimes they are being shown weekly). When we are not showing them we don’t bathe as often. The dogs that are not showing get baths when needed, and when they are blowing coat, or getting ready to have a litter. We do use conditioner on our dogs. I especially like the John Sebestian Leave-in (but I do wash it out). It makes their coat feel like mink. We’re not partial to any one brand of shampoo, but Prell shampoo for humans works great! We blow dry the dogs that are showing and those that are shedding. It helps to get the old coat out, so the new can come in. We do not use heated blow dryers, only the forced air dryers. We have used so many shampoos and conditioners over the years, we can’t remember them all, but whatever works good for you is what you should stay with. We must have changed because we didn’t like the results of the shampoos or conditioners we were using, but we like what we are using now. We only use good metal combs on our dogs’ coats, even when they are blowing coats. Slicker brushes can break the hair. If a dog is blowing heavily and we need the coat out ASAP, we use a metal horse stripper. We only use this with the grain of the coat, not against it. Our main recommendation for grooming is to only use a good wire comb (like the Greyhound brand. If your handler doesn’t steal it every time he sees it and claim is his or hers). The wire comb works the best and does a clean job.

The Way We Teach

We do lots of training for the ring. We go to classes, talk to them (like nuts), and play lots of hide and seek which teaches them to double-handle very well. We hide, then make sounds, say "cookie" and their name, and when they find us they get lots of affection and the "cookie" that was promised. We play this game on a long leash, with the person holding the leash encouraging the dog to find the person who is hiding. In the yard playing, we say their name, "cookie" and ring the doubling bell at the same time, so they associate it all together. We teach our dogs to double from the time they are young puppies by playing hide anid seek. Another game we play with youngsters is one of us running ahead of them while someone handles them on a leash. They learn to pull into the lead this way. We do work on consistency of gait at classes or matches, so they will take the whole ring. We teach them to corner by one of us at opposite corners of the ring at classes or matches and call them when they are about halfway down the side opposite us. We only do these things in moderation when they are young, and we don’t encourage showing a puppy frequently, as they get bored with the whole thing real fast. There aren’t that many pups that are "Best Puppy" material in the breeding programs of most breeders, if they are truthful about it, so why flush good money and waste a good dog? Building attitude is a real task. You must do lots…of praise, lots of talking to them like nuts baby talk, and pounds of cookies with the bell or whatever sound we will use. We also give them a body massage.. .they love it! We haven’t had to build attitude into our dogs too much, because it is most certainly born into them. We do show them special attention, and this shows in the ring. But mainly, they come out of those birth sacks with it.. .Thank God! There is nothing worse then having a beautiful dog with no attitude. Lots of times in the ring an inferior one will win because of that attitude (although I’m not saying our dogs are inferior!). You must have that attitude to compete at least at specialties, and we have it naturally in our lines.

The Way We Work

We do have an exercise program for our dogs. We start them at about 8-12 months of age. Every dog gets daily exercise, whether it’s in the backyard playing the cookie game, out to classes weekly, or out to fun matches. We don’t start roadwork type conditioning until they are one to one and a half; they are on a grassy surface.  When we roadwork it is on blacktop. We roadwork them at 8-11 miles an hour, five days a week. The schedule is three days on, one day off, then two days on and one day off and we repeat that program. On the days off they get yard time to run and play, and lots of doubling. We use our small truck to road-work, behind the tailgate. We don’t let them come up beside it, and the one on the tailgate sitting with the dog leash rings the bells and talks to the dog. The driver (that’s me, Delaine) also calls them and rings the bells, and this makes them pull better. We do not use any devices for strengthening or endurance as the roadwork does that as well as giving them a conditioned and consistent gait. Each dog really has its own speed of roadwork, but we don’t go more than a mile because it builds too much muscle and they aren’t as free moving. Please don’t think you have to go five miles for six months. We roadwork before showing about 3-4 weeks and for the futurities and the National about 6-7 weeks.

The Family Way

Our bitches that are going to have puppies get Pet-Tab vitamins, calcium until about a month after they whelp, and some raspberry tea leaves which are supposed to make whelping easier We start this at the time of the breeding. We don’t have any special exercise for the moms because we think keeping them settled down is the best you can do for them. They do get in the yard daily for a while. After they whelp, we give our bitches am food for lots of milk (actually we have doubled their food by the time they are 5 to 6 weeks in whelp). We feed them extra until the time we are ready to start weaning. Then we cut back. It takes about a week to wean a litter. We begin weaning at three weeks old, starting them on ground beef after a week or so, we mix in some soaked puppy chow. After weaning, they mainly get soaked puppy chow two to three times a day. We have switched them to dog food only by 8-10 weeks old, and adult food at about 5 months. We do add some powder vitamins, garlic powder or Pet-Tab vitamins if it’s only a small litter. Our whelping room is located in our kennel building. We have the puppies on carpet for bedding, with newspapers under it for insulation. The newspapers absorb the urine and we change it all weekly, or sooner if needed. As they get older, they are on newspaper, and as they learn to go outside to potty they are mainly on the wood floor with a small piece of carpet to sleep on. We move them outside at about 8-9 weeks old to a puppy pen that is about 40x50, sometimes sooner depending on the weather. We have a 5x15 "holding pen" with a gate that attaches to the puppy pen so when we are cleaning we can put them in there and they are not under foot.

They Way We Look

We live on nearly 11 acres on the country side of the beautiful Pacific Northwest, Washington State

We have 7 show dog runs", five that are 5 x l5, two are 5x20, and all are covered with either metal corrugated or fiberglass roofing. The whelping room in the kennel building has a swinging magnadoor which leads out to a 12x16 run area for the mom of the pups. This has a ramp to go in and out of the whelping area where they usually sleep. We have three brood bitch runs off the kennel building also covered with fiberglass or corrugated roofing. We have one security run for bitches that are in for breeding that has a chain link top, fiberglass roofing, and a floor of solid cement covered with cedar sawdust. We hate the cement runs that we have, and are going to replace them with patio blocks for better drainage and no smell. As far as roofing, we can’t believe that all kennels across the country don’t have covered runs. You can build them sturdily and at a slope so they are easy to clean, and your dogs can get out in the winter and the summer.

The Way We Are

We have had many experiences in the German Shepherd world, so many that I could write a book.. . which I probably have done here. From the pet puppy buyer to the show dog buyer - to breeding our stud dogs, to whelping a lot of litters (and each one is a new experience), to the problem solving, listening to ridiculous and honest complaints, to replacing animals we don’t really have to replace just to make people happy. We have always tried our best to be up front, honest, helpful and to get along with people. (Which in some cases is impossible, i.e., You could sell them a Grand Victor or Victrix for $150, or even free, and they’d never be happy). But most are very good to deal with and work with and appreciate our input and advice. We still learn something new every day, and we never stop growing and learning more. We think we have been fair in all our dealings, sales, breedings and co-ownerships. Our accomplishments are many, and we are most happy and grateful for each and every one of them. Futurity and Maturity winners, lots of champions and Eleven Selects. We’ve run for Grand Victrix four times, but haven’t as of yet got the big title. Oh well, someday. That can be maddening and disheartening, but we are proud of all of our dogs and our achievements: the Selects, and the progeny of our animals that are Champions, Futurity/Maturity winners and placers and the Select offspring. We’ve had a Maturity Victor (Mastercharge), several ROM’s (which mean more than championships-they are work and are hard to attain) we treasure them. A great many OFA’s in our breeding program is also a great attribute to our breed. We have conditioned some very well known dogs to their championships, several of them not of our breeding. We conditioned Mystique for a year and got her first Select on her. It made us happy to make the owners happy of these dogs.

We’ve had so many accomplishments, but along with the good comes the bad, and we’ve had to weather both. It takes lots of hard work, dedication and yes.. heartaches along the way.

First, you must know what is the best "time" (meaning age wise) as to which are the "show", "companion" and "breedable bitches " and those boys that are the quality needed to be a good, top quality Show ,Stud Dogs (these seem to be few and far between in the past few years - unfortunately).

My own personal thoughts on how we choose our "show" quality, is that we watch them at about 6 weeks of age and there are always those that "stand-out ".   If the overall litter looks good, but your eye tends to go to a certain one or two, it is pretty ascertain that those will be  most likely the ones we are going to hold.

It is also a good time to be sure to check for correct bites, or what the condition of the bite is at that age .